Author Topic: Adventures in home made key caps part deux: Metal and resin casting  (Read 14582 times)

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Offline nubbinator

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In the past, I have experimented with making keycaps out of resin with mixed results.  It's something I want to continue experimenting with, but I think I need a different medium than resin.

So for my second foray into at home cap making, I've delved into backyard metal casting.  I have plans of making about a dozen of these, maybe two dozen if I find a less intensive way to make them, to be gifted to people who have supported my ventures and just been all around awesome people to me, sold to help me be able to afford keyboard stuff and to experiment like this, and auctioned to help geekhack.  As such, hopefully you can understand why I don't go super into detail about how I do things.  With enough reading between the lines, you should be able to get some ideas on how to do it yourself.

Before I start going into details, remember that working with metal can be dangerous, so you need to use safety equipment, try not to breath the fumes, and carefully think about your steps of action in advance so as to minimize potential risks.  I wore safety glasses, leather gloves, long pants, long sleeve sweatshirt, and leather shoes while doing this work.  Ideally, I'd also have a leather apron.

To start, you'll need your special sand mixture, here's my bucket of special casting sand.  I couldn't find as fine grade of a sand as I would have liked, but the sand is letting me make some interesting caps



If you do some research of your own, you can probably figure out how it's done and do some on your own.

After that, you'll need a form.  For mine, I just used some cheap wood I picked up at Home Depot and glued and nailed them together with a nail gun.  I find attaching guides to the side like I did helps a lot.  You can easily make a form that's bigger than the one I did, but I wouldn't recommend smaller. 





You'll use the form to pack the sand in and mold what you're casting.  Once you get the mold made, you'll need to add sprues (vents to pour your metal and allow air and hot gases to escape) and channels for the metal to flow into your mold.

And here's my "crucible" for melting the metal resting on top of a fire brick. 



You'll want at least one fire brick while working with metal.  I lucked out on my "crucible" and found a small cast iron pot for cheap at a thrift store.  This is fine for lower melting point metals like aluminum, pewter, and zinc, but not others out there.

To melt the metal, I use a propane torch.  Ideally I'd be using an acetylene or oxy-acetylene torch, but I have to work with what I have in my budget.  If you work with aluminum, propane probably won't be enough.  It is fine for zinc and pewter though.

Once you get your metal melted, you'll need to remove some dross.  Depending on your source for the metal, this may just be some oxidized metal or it may be impurities within the metal.  After you remove the dross, pour it into your sprue, then wait a little bit.  Break your mold apart, drop your piece into water and clean it off.

Here's my end result so far:





As you can see, it's not perfect, but I'm getting closer to finding a way to get a more consistent pour.  The right side (not pictured) is less attractive because of the sprue and channel being on that side.  I'm trying to figure out a way for the bottom to be the only part that's really affected by the sprue/channels.  I went ahead and polished the cap and made the inside a little bigger.  Next weekend I plan on prepping the inside for a stem and casting a resin stem in the cap.  If that works out, I know I have a working prototype and I just have to figure out some more efficient ways of making the caps.
« Last Edit: Sun, 05 May 2013, 18:12:15 by nubbinator »

Offline Jocelyn

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Re: Adventures in home made key caps part deux: Metal and resin casting
« Reply #1 on: Sun, 05 May 2013, 18:02:10 »
Incredible!! I own one of these caps and it's awesome  :p

Offline regicide

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Re: Adventures in home made key caps part deux: Metal and resin casting
« Reply #2 on: Sun, 05 May 2013, 18:02:59 »
Show Image


That actually looks really pretty :)

Keep up the great work!
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Offline Photekq

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Re: Adventures in home made key caps part deux: Metal and resin casting
« Reply #3 on: Sun, 05 May 2013, 18:04:38 »
Actually looks really cool. If only it had a stem :(
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Offline nubbinator

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Re: Adventures in home made key caps part deux: Metal and resin casting
« Reply #4 on: Sun, 05 May 2013, 18:09:39 »
Actually looks really cool. If only it had a stem :(

That should be coming in an update next week.  It's very difficult if not impossible to cast a stem with the way I'm casting since it's too fine of a detail.  I've got to prep the inside of the cap a little more, make another silicon mold, then see if I can cast a resin stem in it without too much problem.

Edit:  There's also the problem of shrinkage with casting metal, so if tolerances aren't exact and steps taken to minimize shrinkage, it won't work.
« Last Edit: Sun, 05 May 2013, 18:15:55 by nubbinator »

Offline Photekq

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Re: Adventures in home made key caps part deux: Metal and resin casting
« Reply #5 on: Sun, 05 May 2013, 18:11:37 »
Actually looks really cool. If only it had a stem :(

That should be coming in an update next week.  It's very difficult if not impossible to cast a stem with the way I'm casing since it's too fine of a detail.  I've got to prep the inside of the cap a little more, make another silicon mold, then see if I can cast a resin stem in it without too much problem.

Sounds good, man. Can't wait to see it.
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Offline Jocelyn

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Re: Adventures in home made key caps part deux: Metal and resin casting
« Reply #6 on: Sun, 05 May 2013, 18:20:02 »
Actually looks really cool. If only it had a stem :(

Stem (on a prototype of the above key) :)

Edit - nubbinator did the stem too!! lol


Offline YoungMichael88

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Adventures in home made key caps part deux: Metal and resin casting
« Reply #7 on: Sun, 05 May 2013, 18:20:02 »
Cool!! I really like the look of the bubbles!  Like a metal aero bar!
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Offline Photekq

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Re: Adventures in home made key caps part deux: Metal and resin casting
« Reply #8 on: Sun, 05 May 2013, 18:20:32 »
Actually looks really cool. If only it had a stem :(

Stem :)

Show Image

So awesome, Jocelyn. So awesome.
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Offline regicide

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Re: Adventures in home made key caps part deux: Metal and resin casting
« Reply #9 on: Sun, 05 May 2013, 18:24:09 »
Show Image


Hahahahaa what a genius solution
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Offline The_Beast

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Re: Adventures in home made key caps part deux: Metal and resin casting
« Reply #10 on: Sun, 05 May 2013, 18:34:09 »
Are you mulling long enough? Is you sand actually casting sand? Right % water? Right % clay? Are you sifting before packing?


Your pour temp seems to high. 1250F is just about perfect for alum.
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Offline nubbinator

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Re: Adventures in home made key caps part deux: Metal and resin casting
« Reply #11 on: Sun, 05 May 2013, 18:53:44 »
Are you mulling long enough? Is you sand actually casting sand? Right % water? Right % clay? Are you sifting before packing?


Your pour temp seems to high. 1250F is just about perfect for alum.

Since I'm doing it home, all the mulling has been done by hand.  I am getting it nice and well mulled and I know my percentages are right, but I think my source for clay might not be the exact right type since it clumps, but not as well as it should.  That also could be a result of not being able to find a finer sand.  Of course, the coarser sand is what makes the nice textured look to it.  The sand in the bucket just looks off because I just emptied my forms into it and gave it a quick churn without breaking it all up.

I actually have no clue what my pour temp is.  Since I'm using a torch, not a furnace, I'm guesstimating the temps by flow.  I really doubt I'm getting much higher than 900F.  And I'm working with zinc, not aluminum, though I plan on giving aluminum a try.  I know I'm not hitting anywhere near the theoretical max temps for propane though.  Since the cast iron is too thick to heat it up and melt the metal from the outside with the torch, I have to heat it from the top and sometimes have to stick the nozzle a little inside the pot.  Without a fan blowing in it, it gets a little starved for air, so it's burning at a lower temp than the theoretical max temp for propane.
« Last Edit: Sun, 05 May 2013, 19:03:31 by nubbinator »

Offline mkawa

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Re: Adventures in home made key caps part deux: Metal and resin casting
« Reply #12 on: Fri, 17 May 2013, 15:53:25 »
hey, you're local! cool!

do you know about the hackerspace machine shop in your area? (it might technically be in like fullerton or something, but it's within driving distance of you). they have higher temp torches, crucibles, etc. all you would need to bring is your casting material and cast.

they are listed here: http://hackerspaces.org/wiki/List_of_Hacker_Spaces

and it's pretty obvious which one it is, because they don't have a small electricals workshop at all.

a little bit of pressure might fill those voids a bit better. a silicone tube into the sprue or something?

would be cool to see a mixed grain size cast. i'm totally in love with the texture of sandcasting since i got my d-frame. we've gotten so used to shiny metal forgings and castings that we've forgotten how hard it is to get that kind of finish. ironic that we're more likely these days to gravity cast into a very smooth mold and then bead blast or sand blast to get the surface rough enough to accept paint. lol

oh, and for your temps, just get a cheap non-contact thermometer (IR spectrum). they're wildly inaccurate at those any temps, but you just want to know ballpark how hot you're getting crucible and pour, so meh.
« Last Edit: Fri, 17 May 2013, 15:55:36 by mkawa »

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Offline nubbinator

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Re: Adventures in home made key caps part deux: Metal and resin casting
« Reply #13 on: Fri, 17 May 2013, 16:48:46 »
hey, you're local! cool!

do you know about the hackerspace machine shop in your area? (it might technically be in like fullerton or something, but it's within driving distance of you). they have higher temp torches, crucibles, etc. all you would need to bring is your casting material and cast.

they are listed here: http://hackerspaces.org/wiki/List_of_Hacker_Spaces

and it's pretty obvious which one it is, because they don't have a small electricals workshop at all.

a little bit of pressure might fill those voids a bit better. a silicone tube into the sprue or something?

would be cool to see a mixed grain size cast. i'm totally in love with the texture of sandcasting since i got my d-frame. we've gotten so used to shiny metal forgings and castings that we've forgotten how hard it is to get that kind of finish. ironic that we're more likely these days to gravity cast into a very smooth mold and then bead blast or sand blast to get the surface rough enough to accept paint. lol

oh, and for your temps, just get a cheap non-contact thermometer (IR spectrum). they're wildly inaccurate at those any temps, but you just want to know ballpark how hot you're getting crucible and pour, so meh.

Yeah, I was looking into them, but I don't know what kind of hours they keep since their website really doesn't give any typical hours people are there.  I have been meaning to head up there and check it out.  I plan on powder coating my GH60 plate up there when it comes in.  If they do have all that stuff you say, I definitely need to head up there and check them out.  Once I get some molds working properly with pewter and zinc, I'm going to try some aluminum and white bronze pieces (white bronze is just sexy as none other).  I'm also trying to get my sister to help me with some carving so I can get a proper mold.  I really want something like a triceratops key cap.  Of course, that's just once I get to be casting more consistently. 

I might have sprued it wrong and that's why I have some voids. I need to play with my spruing more to get it figured out.  It could also just be that I need less sand up top so it has less area to travel down to the mold.  Gravity casting is really fickle though.

And I agree with you on the texture of sand casting.  I really want to find some finer sand so the green sand holds up better, but I love the texture the larger sand imparts on the casting.  And once it gets polished up a little, it looks even better.

The hardest part with this is coming up with a way to make a consistent stem and base since shrinkage and casting without a metal mold can cause all kinds of headaches.

I was looking at some IR thermometers, but the ones that can read north of 800F tend to start to get outside of my current price range.  While $40-60 isn't too bad, it's a little too expensive for me right now.  Generally you can guesstimate temps by the way the metal flows.

Edit:  Oh, I just saw that there's one in Irvine with an incoming laser cutter/engraver, PCB prototyping, and CNC machine. That could be a lot of fun and sounds like the perfect place for keyboard prototyping.  Need to get some spending money first so I can afford the fees and material costs.
« Last Edit: Fri, 17 May 2013, 16:55:32 by nubbinator »

Offline mkawa

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Re: Adventures in home made key caps part deux: Metal and resin casting
« Reply #14 on: Fri, 17 May 2013, 20:18:59 »
hey, you're local! cool!

do you know about the hackerspace machine shop in your area? (it might technically be in like fullerton or something, but it's within driving distance of you). they have higher temp torches, crucibles, etc. all you would need to bring is your casting material and cast.

they are listed here: http://hackerspaces.org/wiki/List_of_Hacker_Spaces

and it's pretty obvious which one it is, because they don't have a small electricals workshop at all.

a little bit of pressure might fill those voids a bit better. a silicone tube into the sprue or something?

would be cool to see a mixed grain size cast. i'm totally in love with the texture of sandcasting since i got my d-frame. we've gotten so used to shiny metal forgings and castings that we've forgotten how hard it is to get that kind of finish. ironic that we're more likely these days to gravity cast into a very smooth mold and then bead blast or sand blast to get the surface rough enough to accept paint. lol

oh, and for your temps, just get a cheap non-contact thermometer (IR spectrum). they're wildly inaccurate at those any temps, but you just want to know ballpark how hot you're getting crucible and pour, so meh.

Yeah, I was looking into them, but I don't know what kind of hours they keep since their website really doesn't give any typical hours people are there.  I have been meaning to head up there and check it out.  I plan on powder coating my GH60 plate up there when it comes in.  If they do have all that stuff you say, I definitely need to head up there and check them out.  Once I get some molds working properly with pewter and zinc, I'm going to try some aluminum and white bronze pieces (white bronze is just sexy as none other).  I'm also trying to get my sister to help me with some carving so I can get a proper mold.  I really want something like a triceratops key cap.  Of course, that's just once I get to be casting more consistently. 

I might have sprued it wrong and that's why I have some voids. I need to play with my spruing more to get it figured out.  It could also just be that I need less sand up top so it has less area to travel down to the mold.  Gravity casting is really fickle though.

And I agree with you on the texture of sand casting.  I really want to find some finer sand so the green sand holds up better, but I love the texture the larger sand imparts on the casting.  And once it gets polished up a little, it looks even better.

The hardest part with this is coming up with a way to make a consistent stem and base since shrinkage and casting without a metal mold can cause all kinds of headaches.

I was looking at some IR thermometers, but the ones that can read north of 800F tend to start to get outside of my current price range.  While $40-60 isn't too bad, it's a little too expensive for me right now.  Generally you can guesstimate temps by the way the metal flows.

Edit:  Oh, I just saw that there's one in Irvine with an incoming laser cutter/engraver, PCB prototyping, and CNC machine. That could be a lot of fun and sounds like the perfect place for keyboard prototyping.  Need to get some spending money first so I can afford the fees and material costs.
for the stem and base, just mold a cap with a flat interior and epoxy a printed plastic cruciform in. you're never going to get a consistent cruciform to the datasheet tolerances with a sand gravity casting; that's kind of the point of sandcasting :P

what i meant by silicone tube btw was to have a long silicone tube you can blow into to apply a little pressure to get material into voids. if your voids are are at the sprue though, i think there's some relatively well known trick you can play with wax plugs... i can't remember offhand, but a friend of mine has used it quite a bit with small cast parts.

let me know how the OC hackerspaces are if you start taking tours. i'm going to be in the OC enough to help out at an OC space pretty much from here on, and the westside and downtown hackerspaces are non-existent or suck.

oh, my impression with hackerspace hours is that there are N keys made, and the place is open whenever someone with a key decides to show up. make friends with the keyholders and you're golden :D

« Last Edit: Sat, 18 May 2013, 01:17:21 by mkawa »

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