Converting CMStorm Quickfire to a bluetooth keyboard possible?

[mrflow3r]

Hello everyone,

I took a quick look at this project in github https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard. It looks like the developer is a fellow geekhacker too as a lot of links mentioned in the document link to this forum. This looks like a great project, but I was a little sad to see there is no mention of CMStorm Quickfire. Is there a reason other than lack of interest why this particular keyboard isn't supported?

Let me know! I'd love to help

[Grendel]

Probably can be made to work if you get a Frosty Flake, IIRC the tmk firmware if written for AVR MCU's. Also, the Holtec controller used in QFR's can't be reprogrammed, it's an OTP type chip.

As an alternative you could build a tmk based ps/2 to USB converter and hook the QFR up to it.

[mrflow3r]

This is great, I am buying one of those. Thanks!

[Findecanor]

The Frosty Flake does not do Bluetooth though...

[mkawa]

the TMK firmware is by hasu, who posts quite a bit and will probably see this. the easiest way to do this might be a hid liberation board from bpiph and then the new adafruit bluefruit ez-link: http://www.adafruit.com/products/1588

connect the ez-link to the hid liberation, then talk to it over serial. it's basically a wireless FTDI adapter, and it has pinout for a battery that can power both the unit and the attached controller, so you should be able to pair with it (seamlessly, mind you, as it autoconfigures) and then do hid over serial via windows driver.

[Tranquilite]

HID over serial sounds kind of hackish, when you could fairly easily get proper bluetooth HID with the bluefruit EZ-key (not EZ-link):
http://www.adafruit.com/products/1535
The Frosty Flake will still communicate with the EZ-key via serial, but you wont need any special hid over serial drivers on your PC. On the downside you wont get the fancy battery connector, however the EZ-key has an onboard voltage regulator so as long as your power source outputs 3-16V and you don't mind doing a bit more soldering, then you will be fine.

Also, it might be a good idea to find out if there are any spare IO pins on the Frosty Flake that you access before you dive in. You need at least one IO pin to send your HID reports to the EZ-key via serial, and optionally one IO pin per extra functionality such as receiving keyboard LED status from the EZ-key over serial, controlling the paring button pin, controlling the reset pin to save power when idle, etc.

[mkawa]

nice, the ez-key is very cool. i agree. bpiph's frosty flake + the ez-key is exactly what you want. i was still in awe at the ez-link existing and then they go and release the ez-key. gogo ladyada!!

http://deskthority.net/w/images/a/a4/Frosty_Flake_Schematics.pdf

there are 3 pins hanging out on the frosty flake. you can tx/rx it up or potentially even i2s if the mega32u2 can do i2s on those pins (otherwise you'll have to hack i2s into the firmware, not worth it, just tx/rx in that case).

[Grendel]

Most of the SPI interface (MOSI, MISO, SCK) is available on the FF programming header. Can be used as general I/O pins.

[mkawa]

if you switch the SPI core as slave, those pins will be set input and dedicated to SPI and you will not be able to strobe cols, 0, 1, 2 if i'm reading the datasheet and schem right. the SPI pins are run to the ISP header for one-time programming and not to be used during operation. i think an ad-hoc tx/rx will have to be set up on the 3 unused GPIOs (natch, one on each port )

[Grendel]

You can use those pins unless you need to hook up an ISP to mess w/ the fuses or re-program the boot loader. The serial ISP interface only becomes active while /RESET is held low (datasheet chapters 25.8 and 25.9.)

Edit: Oh, I see what you mean -- right, they are already used, my bad B0, C2 & D3 it is then. D3 at least is hooked up to USART1 TX, need to do bit-banging to receive anything.

[mrflow3r]

Wow thank you everyone for your responses. In short it looks like I need to use the pins on the Frosty Flakes to do serial communication to the bluetooth module (EZ Link).
I will add details as I work through. So first thing first: where is bpiphany. I can't get hold of him =(

[Grendel]

Vacation AFAIK, should be back in a couple days.

[mrflow3r]

Vacation AFAIK, should be back in a couple days.

Awesome Thank you!

[clickclack123]

Registering interest in this, I need to get nkro over bluetooth working and would love someone to test it out on an EZ-key/EZ-link.

[mrflow3r]

Wooot my 2 FF are on its way

[mrflow3r]

Sorry I would love to do my own research, but I haven't got much time this week. Apologies in advance.

Question: Do I need a special programmer to flash the binary? In other words, how do I load the firmware onto the MCU??

Thanks!

[mrflow3r]

HID over serial sounds kind of hackish, when you could fairly easily get proper bluetooth HID with the bluefruit EZ-key (not EZ-link):
http://www.adafruit.com/products/1535
The Frosty Flake will still communicate with the EZ-key via serial, but you wont need any special hid over serial drivers on your PC. On the downside you wont get the fancy battery connector, however the EZ-key has an onboard voltage regulator so as long as your power source outputs 3-16V and you don't mind doing a bit more soldering, then you will be fine.

Also, it might be a good idea to find out if there are any spare IO pins on the Frosty Flake that you access before you dive in. You need at least one IO pin to send your HID reports to the EZ-key via serial, and optionally one IO pin per extra functionality such as receiving keyboard LED status from the EZ-key over serial, controlling the paring button pin, controlling the reset pin to save power when idle, etc.

Cool I subscribed to their notification list (EZ-key is out of stock for the moment). This is coming together faster than I thought!

I haven't thought too much about powering the keyboard + MCU + EZ Link with batteries yet, but I think I will see if I can get 2 AAs in series to work.

[mkawa]

Sorry I would love to do my own research, but I haven't got much time this week. Apologies in advance.

Question: Do I need a special programmer to flash the binary? In other words, how do I load the firmware onto the MCU??

Thanks!

use the ISP header on the frosty flake. just after the reset pin goes high, the ISP can be driven to load firmware into the boot and program on-chip eeprom. the ISP basically speaks tx/rx, and can be run USB with an FTDI header; adafruit sells a couple different kinds. one of them has the atmel header on the end, which works when the header run out from the MCU has the pinout given by the datasheet. they also carry an FTDI adapter that runs the serial wires out to individual female pins. lastly, it's possible to use a soarer, an id innovations adapter (in windows only, with the driver from the id site), or an rs-232 connector if you have one, to the MCU ISP pins. oh, atmel also sells a couple of different programmers for external programming that will either speak to the ISP on the MCU, or bypass it completely, to write to the MCU EEPROM and set lockbits.

oh, and word from the wise. DO NOT SET ANY LOCKBITS. the fastest way to brick an atmel is to lock the eeprom down. some MCUs support high voltage programming, but it's far from orderly. the last time i had to do this, i had to hook up a signal generator shooting 12v into the reset pin and simultaneously strobe the ISP header until i managed to reset the lockbit fuses. gigantic pain in the behind.

[Grendel]

You don't have to use an ISP. The chip comes pre-programmed w/ Atmels's DFU boot-loader -- use a magnet to activate it (there's a reed contact on the FF), then use FLIP to upload the new image via USB. PM me if you are interested in an alternative firmware. While it's fairly comprehensive, I haven't gotten a chance to test it fully yet -- waiting for my FF's as well -- so it'd be use-at-your-own-risk..

To edit and compile code I use AVR Studio 4.19 (AVRS) and avr-gcc 4.7.0 + avr-libc 1.8.

As for the lock-bits, they should reset w/ a chip-erase command via ISP.

[mkawa]

there's a lock-bit that nullifies chip-erase such that only a high voltage reset will allow writes to the lockbits or flash. anyway, the lock-bit thing still holds.

[Grendel]

According to the Mega32U2 datasheet it's not possible to lock yourself out of the chip w/ the serial ISP interface -- there are two lock bits for disabling EEPROM/Flash programming and verification plus four that control SPM/(E)LPM instruction behavior in the application and boot loader sections. The fuse bit that would disable the ISP interface (SPIEN) is not accessible in serial programming mode.

Anyway, there is no need to mess w/ the bits unless you want to sell pre-programmed FF's and prevent people from reverse engineering your firmware.

Edit: The RSTDSBL fuse bit may do the trick, have to try that. The datasheet doesn't mention if that would kill the ISP I/F.

[clickclack123]

I haven't thought too much about powering the keyboard + MCU + EZ Link with batteries yet, but I think I will see if I can get 2 AAs in series to work.

They use 3xAAA in the bluefoot - http://learn.adafruit.com/bluefruit-bluetooth-wireless-foot-pedal-switch/overview

[mrflow3r]

My FF is here. I will solder the parts on and give it a try tonight. One step at a time!

[mrflow3r]

I haven't thought too much about powering the keyboard + MCU + EZ Link with batteries yet, but I think I will see if I can get 2 AAs in series to work.

They use 3xAAA in the bluefoot - http://learn.adafruit.com/bluefruit-bluetooth-wireless-foot-pedal-switch/overview

Thanks, I will keep that in mind. I don't know the voltage requirement, but if my project can run on small batteries, that is good.

[mrflow3r]

The PCB is about 50% populated. The parts are tiny! Should be able to give it a try tomorrow. Will keep you all posted

[mrflow3r]

Urrg I soldered the MCU and half way through I realized it was facing the wrong direction.

[clickclack123]

Show Image

Urrg I soldered the MCU and half way through I realized it was facing the wrong direction.

Damn. Looks fixable though.

[mrflow3r]

Show Image

Urrg I soldered the MCU and half way through I realized it was facing the wrong direction.

Damn. Looks fixable though.

Ya I think the PCB is ok. The MCU was ok too when the picture was taken, then I broke a pin =(. A new MCU is already on its way - thanks to Fredrik!

[clickclack123]

Show Image

Urrg I soldered the MCU and half way through I realized it was facing the wrong direction.

Damn. Looks fixable though.

Ya I think the PCB is ok. The MCU was ok too when the picture was taken, then I broke a pin =(. A new MCU is already on its way - thanks to Fredrik!

Looks like you were soldering that with normal solder. One thing that I would suggest is looking into using solder paste and a hot air soldering station. I bought a nice digital temperature-controlled soldering station with a hot air gun new for ~$90 on ebay, and used it to with great success to replace a SOT23-5 regulator on an Arduino Pro Micro with a different voltage one.

I'd be very confident now using the hot air to solder an Atmega32u4 on now. It was pretty easy.

I used a toothpick to put the solder paste on, which worked beautifully.

Btw the solder paste was $3.60 on ebay as well.

[mrflow3r]

Show Image

Urrg I soldered the MCU and half way through I realized it was facing the wrong direction.

Damn. Looks fixable though.

Ya I think the PCB is ok. The MCU was ok too when the picture was taken, then I broke a pin =(. A new MCU is already on its way - thanks to Fredrik!

Looks like you were soldering that with normal solder. One thing that I would suggest is looking into using solder paste and a hot air soldering station. I bought a nice digital temperature-controlled soldering station with a hot air gun new for ~$90 on ebay, and used it to with great success to replace a SOT23-5 regulator on an Arduino Pro Micro with a different voltage one.

I'd be very confident now using the hot air to solder an Atmega32u4 on now. It was pretty easy.

I used a toothpick to put the solder paste on, which worked beautifully.

Btw the solder paste was $3.60 on ebay as well.

That's right, I was using my trusty soldering iron Hako fx888 - nothing special. I was using the bundled iron tip too - a little big for what I was doing I think. Can yougive me the model name for the hot air gun? I actually never used hot air gun - don't even know what it is... =P. Thank you!!

[update] just realized what solder paste and hot air gun can do. INCREDIBLE. Thanks Clickclack123.

[clickclack123]

Show Image

Urrg I soldered the MCU and half way through I realized it was facing the wrong direction.

Damn. Looks fixable though.

Ya I think the PCB is ok. The MCU was ok too when the picture was taken, then I broke a pin =(. A new MCU is already on its way - thanks to Fredrik!

Looks like you were soldering that with normal solder. One thing that I would suggest is looking into using solder paste and a hot air soldering station. I bought a nice digital temperature-controlled soldering station with a hot air gun new for ~$90 on ebay, and used it to with great success to replace a SOT23-5 regulator on an Arduino Pro Micro with a different voltage one.

I'd be very confident now using the hot air to solder an Atmega32u4 on now. It was pretty easy.

I used a toothpick to put the solder paste on, which worked beautifully.

Btw the solder paste was $3.60 on ebay as well.

That's right, I was using my trusty soldering iron Hako fx888 - nothing special. I was using the bundled iron tip too - a little big for what I was doing I think. Can yougive me the model name for the hot air gun? I actually never used hot air gun - don't even know what it is... =P. Thank you!!

[update] just realized what solder paste and hot air gun can do. INCREDIBLE. Thanks Clickclack123.

Yeah, it's really amazing to see when the solder paste is sucked onto the legs of the component. Seeing the videos of that on youtube was what sold me on getting a hot air station initially.

I got a YH-8786D, and I'm happy with it, but if I were to do it again, I would get a separate hot air gun and soldering station. It would cost maybe $15 more to get separate ones, but I didn't realize when I bought it that the hot air gun was always attached to the base unit. It doesn't have a socket like the soldering iron. Sometimes I don't need to use the hot air gun and it would be nice to leave it in the box.

It wouldn't matter if I had a proper workshop, but I'm always having to put everything away lest "she who must be obeyed" would get annoyed.

I also bought kapton heat-resistant tape on ebay (also cheap!) to protect components when I'm hot air-ing other parts of the board.

[hasu]

Hakko C or BC tip also works for TQFP package with drag method. I solder ATMega32U4 with C tip.

http://www.hakko.com/english/tip_selection/work_drag.html

Hotair is good of course if you xan afford.

[mrflow3r]

Thank you for the link to eBay item. I too have a very cramped work space. I bare have enough space to fit two keyboards - so I have to put a keyboard away everytime I do electrical work. Anyways, since I already have an iron, I was looking for a standalone unit. I found one from Sparkfun - https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10706. I just have to figure out how to ship it to Vancouver (Canada). I watched some videos on how to use solder paste and reflowing the joints with a heat gun seems almost magical!

Btw I live alone, so I won't make anyone upset even if I get lazy with organization. It would be nice to have a man-cave when I do though!

Show Image

Urrg I soldered the MCU and half way through I realized it was facing the wrong direction.

Damn. Looks fixable though.

Ya I think the PCB is ok. The MCU was ok too when the picture was taken, then I broke a pin =(. A new MCU is already on its way - thanks to Fredrik!

Looks like you were soldering that with normal solder. One thing that I would suggest is looking into using solder paste and a hot air soldering station. I bought a nice digital temperature-controlled soldering station with a hot air gun new for ~$90 on ebay, and used it to with great success to replace a SOT23-5 regulator on an Arduino Pro Micro with a different voltage one.

I'd be very confident now using the hot air to solder an Atmega32u4 on now. It was pretty easy.

I used a toothpick to put the solder paste on, which worked beautifully.

Btw the solder paste was $3.60 on ebay as well.

That's right, I was using my trusty soldering iron Hako fx888 - nothing special. I was using the bundled iron tip too - a little big for what I was doing I think. Can yougive me the model name for the hot air gun? I actually never used hot air gun - don't even know what it is... =P. Thank you!!

[update] just realized what solder paste and hot air gun can do. INCREDIBLE. Thanks Clickclack123.

Yeah, it's really amazing to see when the solder paste is sucked onto the legs of the component. Seeing the videos of that on youtube was what sold me on getting a hot air station initially.

I got a YH-8786D, and I'm happy with it, but if I were to do it again, I would get a separate hot air gun and soldering station. It would cost maybe $15 more to get separate ones, but I didn't realize when I bought it that the hot air gun was always attached to the base unit. It doesn't have a socket like the soldering iron. Sometimes I don't need to use the hot air gun and it would be nice to leave it in the box.

It wouldn't matter if I had a proper workshop, but I'm always having to put everything away lest "she who must be obeyed" would get annoyed.

I also bought kapton heat-resistant tape on ebay (also cheap!) to protect components when I'm hot air-ing other parts of the board.

[mrflow3r]

As much as I like to be efficient at using iron, I think my goal for my projects is the integration - EZ Blue with FF in this case. So I will splurge if it will save me tonnes of time! I will probably still get some extra iron tips though. Thank you for ur suggestion!

Hakko C or BC tip also works for TQFP package with drag method. I solder ATMega32U4 with C tip.

http://www.hakko.com/english/tip_selection/work_drag.html

Hotair is good of course if you xan afford.

[mrflow3r]

update/

Got a rework station with some new tips from http://www.ebay.ca/itm/NEW-Full-Pack-GQ-5200-hot-tweezer-SMD-Rework-station-hot-air-soldering-Iron-/110969284827. It should be here in weeks time.
 Bluetooth EZ-key at Adafruit gets restocked every now and then, but it gets sold out in matter of minutes every time!!
So I ordered some HC 06 bluetooth modules from eBay. Well I actually ordered one, but the pins are so small I had hard time wiring up. I did get it to work with my Arduino Uno and send characters over the serial. For prototpying, I think it's a good start. I have another one coming with the pins pre-soldered.

[Tranquilite]

Bluetooth EZ-key at Adafruit gets restocked every now and then, but it gets sold out in matter of minutes every time!!

EZ-keys are currently in stock

[mrflow3r]

whoa thanks for letting me know. The cheapest shipping was $10 to Canada. It hurts like hell haha :)b

Bluetooth EZ-key at Adafruit gets restocked every now and then, but it gets sold out in matter of minutes every time!!

EZ-keys are currently in stock