TG3 BL82 12v to 5v ( volt mod )

[Thechemist]

I have recently purchased a TG3 BL82 with cherry mx clear switches and red leds.

What i know is that there are two versions of this cop car keyboard, one has mx cherry black switches that operates at 5v ( this keyboard is more common ) and the one i purchased with cherry mx clear switches that operates at 12v ( less common ).

What I am planning to do is replace the leds with some 3mm round flat top blue/purple/white leds ( 120-140 viewing angle ).

I also have some 62g/55g Korean springs coming in from Originative with some white sticker sheets so that i can mod them to Korean clears.

The switches will be lubed with some Krytox GLP 103 + 205 mixture once i order the product.

I have already removed the pcb away from the body and desoldered the leds and switches, drilled out one side of the standoffs on the plate side so that i can separate the plate and the pcb.

The pcb has been somewhat cleaned with a copper wick and inspected to make sure no tracers / pads were damaged in the process. I haven't yet cleaned it with with 99% isopropyl solution.

I have a basic knowledge of transistors / resisters / regulators and can half-way read the schematics.


Link to the album, 35 x 2mb pics  <---- I am rotating some pictures at the moment since when you upload them, some tend to rotate, not sure why. Done

Link to the cherry mx black version of this keyboard pdf spec file I am unable to locate one for the cherry mx clear version but there is really no helpful information there.

I soldered 5v+ and ground from the ps/2 cable directly to the main pcb and cut the corresponding ribbon leads. Hopefully my calculations are correct and the existing transistors on the main pcb should suffice after i removed the transistor, which stepped down the leds to 2-2.2v. Now i should have 3-3.4v across the baord, it may vary a little since some places have 3 in a series while other places are 4 in  a series.




Right now I don't think i will be able to turn the leds off or adjust the brightness, oh well maybe in the future i will replace the controller  .

Now I am waiting for the springs and leds to come in and need to source Krytox GPL 103 + 205, now i just need 103.

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This portion of the mod is if you kept the original 2.2v leds and don't want to use external source.

Purchase this converter

Then connect it as shown below







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Preview of the current progress of the LED mod. No dimmer option ( yet ).





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** I will be editing this post once new information is found to help keep this project on track. **

[bazemk1979]

keeping an eye on this one, can some sort of KRO be achieved over the 2KRO? by installing diodes?

[Thechemist]

Not sure, i think a controller replacement or flash might be required also. I might tackle that after the volt mod.

[bazemk1979]

cool stuff

[phoenix1234]

The board looks different with TG3 BL82 Cherry MX Black version (5V), so I think you may need quite some works.
I hope that you will be successful because indeed TG3 keyboard is very solid.

[Thechemist]

I haven't seen how the pcb differs on the black so i cannot say, it would be nice to maybe have a pic. I think all i need to do is replace the some resistors on the regulator so it changes from 12v to 5v, maybe few resistors for the leds if they are the 2-2.2 fv and i am replacing them with 3v fv. I will send an email to TG3 and maybe get some assistance there.

[Thechemist]

This is where i am Right now, but i need to find out what the resistance is on each piece then calculate what has to be changed so that voltage steps down to 5v since that regulator ( which is using back plate as a heatsink ) is good for 1v-12v

[phoenix1234]

Here are some outlooks of the Cherry MX Black board:
http://curio.egloos.com/910109
http://bbs.pcpop.com/thread-5989695-1-1.html
http://www.kbdmania.net/xe/best_article/1198737
The main reason that I can recognize the difference between the 2 boards is because of the two giant red capacitors (?) on the MX Clear 12v.

[Thechemist]

Here are some outlooks of the Cherry MX Black board:
http://curio.egloos.com/910109
http://bbs.pcpop.com/thread-5989695-1-1.html
http://www.kbdmania.net/xe/best_article/1198737
The main reason that I can recognize the difference between the 2 boards is because of the two giant red capacitors (?) on the MX Clear 12v.

Thanks for the links, I don't see a regulator nor any transistors i have in question on mine. If only they could be eliminated with a straight wire, that would be to easy hahaha. 

[Thechemist]

Maybe it would be easier to source a 5v board but from where?

[Thechemist]

I think i know what has to be done now.

[esoomenona]

I think i know what has to be done now.

Does it involve fire?

[Thechemist]

I don't think there is a point of hooking up the regulator since i am not providing 12v source. I just need to wire the blue and green wires to the main PCB which power up the LEDs and Switches but they are in series so i have to take that into consideration. I might have to replace some of the resistors on the main PCB and add resistors between the source and main PCB.

[Tarzan]

Following this thread with interest! 

I have one TG3 so far (MX Blacks/red LED), and planning on getting another (MX Clears/12v White LED).  I'd really like to know how to switch LEDs to Cyan/Green on on or the other board.

[Thechemist]

Ok, I have 5v going to the main PCB now but need to step it down to 3.4v at 20mA.

Edit: Updated OP with where I am now.

[Thechemist]

Update:

I have ordered a Aoyue 2702 but when it arrived, the package looked like it litterally fell off the truck and was left out in the rain forgetten for a day ( the actual package was one day late and i am assuming that is what happened ).

The box disintegrated so they put in a "We Care" plastic bag.

When i opened the package the font face was cracked and was coming apart. I have already received a refund ( great seller) he has to dispute it with USPS now.

More

I also ordered a hakko 936 that one of the users posted a link to use a backup which is now my main unit, just waiting for the iron to come in.

I have so far lubed all the switches and replaced the stock springs on all ( even the grey spacebar switch, i tried with 55g and stock clear spring and 55g felt better and did not have a problem coming up at all ) switches to a 55g Korean spring and assembled them with a switch sticker.

They also have been soldered with an el-cheapo iron on the pcb with plate, which isn't that bad if you tin the tip and don't hold it on the pcb for too long.





I haven't cleaned the residue yet, i will after I finish soldering the leds.

All the switches work but there won't be an led dimmer function ( for now )

I am now waiting for the leds to come in, with other items before i can assemble it together.

[metalliqaz]

Watching this thread

[SmallFry]

Me too, sad that they bashed you soldering iron, I'd be MEGA pissed.

[Thechemist]

It's ok I got a refund and purchased another one.

I am going a different direction with the mod to get all the leds to work with a 5v existing source but will update once the parts arrive.

[phoenix1234]

Hi ,

Thank you for your interesting topic.
However, I cannot mod the board like you did.
Instead, I followed the cheapest one, mod the wire with external power source.
I did to solder the blue-yellow and green-black pair carefully, covered them with shield and finally used the duct tape to fix  :
It looks ugly but it works 



12V adapter external power source:



Cherry Mx Clear with led:


Final result:

[Thechemist]

Nice, what mA is that power supply?

[phoenix1234]

It is a 2000mA adapter, it can provide to an internal SATA harddisk, I think


The led is bright enough for night vision

[Thechemist]

I appreciate you sharing the information.

[phoenix1234]

I appreciate you sharing the information.

No problem, I can't wait to see your 5v mod result

[berserkfan]

Hey Guys

I am a noob so forgive me. When they say this works with 12v, does it mean that changing the leds themselves won't do anything?

ie we either do as phoenix does, and find a 12v power source,

OR

do as the chemist does, and attack the board directly?

[Thechemist]

Hey Guys

I am a noob so forgive me. When they say this works with 12v, does it mean that changing the leds themselves won't do anything?

ie we either do as phoenix does, and find a 12v power source,

OR

do as the chemist does, and attack the board directly?

Changing just the leds isn't going to anything other than make it dimmer ( if you use anything other than 2.2-2.6v ones with the 12v external power mod ) I will update what i am trying to accomplish once the parts arrive but it will be so much easier for you to just do what Phoenix did and apply 12v external source. If you plan do take the switches out and lube them or change the spring you then might as well do what I am doing since you have to unsolder switches and leds. There is a lot more work involved if you want to switch the leds because they are setup in a series vs parallel.

[berserkfan]

Will just about any 12v adapter supply power for the board? Or are there more amperage or whatever-s to consider?

I confess I have forgotten all physics since I left high school over 20 years ago. I was never good at it. I just follow instructions and hope nothing burns or blows up.

Hey Guys

I am a noob so forgive me. When they say this works with 12v, does it mean that changing the leds themselves won't do anything?

ie we either do as phoenix does, and find a 12v power source,

OR

do as the chemist does, and attack the board directly?

Changing just the leds isn't going to anything other than make it dimmer ( if you use anything other than 2.2-2.6v ones with the 12v external power mod ) I will update what i am trying to accomplish once the parts arrive but it will be so much easier for you to just do what Phoenix did and apply 12v external source. If you plan do take the switches out and lube them or change the spring you then might as well do what I am doing since you have to unsolder switches and leds. There is a lot more work involved if you want to switch the leds because they are setup in a series vs parallel.

[Thechemist]

You can use even a molex adapter from your desktop, or anything 12v output with about ~500-1000mA.

[berserkfan]

I googled molex adapter and it showed me SATA cables. Isn't that a standard short cable from INSIDE the computer, for use on hard drives, CDROMs and the like?

Let me clarify this. If the power supply unit is 12v, I can run a cable all the way from that unit to this keyboard. Based on what the Phoenix has done, it seems as though the 12v power cables run through the keyboard's ps2. So all I do is cut open the ps2, identify the power cables, hook them up to a power supply direct from the psU? Sounds doable, but how do you solve the small logistical problem of running a power cable from inside the desktop casing, all the way to the keyboard ps2 cable which connects to the outside?

[Thechemist]

Don't cut the wire on the ps/2 cable ( just unplug the two wire connector from the pcb ( blue and green ) then just solder the yellow ( from PSU ) to where blue goes on the board and black  ( PSU ) to green on the board. You could cut into the cable but you risk damaging the cable, it's up to you.

where you see J2 and W4

[berserkfan]

OK, I think you have a different work style from Phoenix. Phoenix seems to have cut into the PS2 cable (a delicate and risky operation) and identified the power cables, then modded his external power supply onto those cables.

For your photo below, it's of the TG3's PCB, right? So your're essentially running some cables from the casing to a modded power cable of the kind used in computer psu-s, hooked up to an external 12v adapter.

Don't mind me asking, but is it worth it? Are the 12v lights really that pretty? It looks like a standard illuminated keyboard from the pictures, but if 12v makes the lights that strong, I think I can replace the original keycaps with PBT keycaps and have the light shine through/ from under them.

Don't cut the wire on the ps/2 cable ( just unplug the two wire connector from the pcb ( blue and green ) then just solder the yellow ( from PSU ) to where blue goes on the board and black  ( PSU ) to green on the board. You could cut into the cable but you risk damaging the cable, it's up to you.

where you see J2 and W4

Show Image

[phoenix1234]

OK, I think you have a different work style from Phoenix. Phoenix seems to have cut into the PS2 cable (a delicate and risky operation) and identified the power cables, then modded his external power supply onto those cables.
For your photo below, it's of the TG3's PCB, right? So your're essentially running some cables from the casing to a modded power cable of the kind used in computer psu-s, hooked up to an external 12v adapter.
Don't mind me asking, but is it worth it? Are the 12v lights really that pretty? It looks like a standard illuminated keyboard from the pictures, but if 12v makes the lights that strong, I think I can replace the original keycaps with PBT keycaps and have the light shine through/ from under them.

It is quite difficult to answer your question whether it is worth or not.
My answer is 12v led is exactly the same with 5v led. I did not see any difference.
For me, they deliver the same quality of led.

Indeed, there is no perfect solution to mod the TG3 BL 82.
We need to have a trade off solution between :

- beauty
- simplicity

If you choose to follow Thechemist solution which is modifying the board -> the hardest one but in return you have a keyboard without any extra adapter or molex port.

If you choose to follow Thechemist advise on "Don't cut the wire on the ps/2 cable", you can keep the cable but you may need another long cable to wire from the board to reach to the power source (12 V).

If you choose to follow the solution similar to what I did, you need to sacrifice the ps/2 cable but you can reduce to have another long cable.

The choice is yours.  )

[phoenix1234]

I'm sorry - double post - would you please help me to delete this post.
Thank you.

[Thechemist]

This portion of the mod is if you kept the original 2.2v leds and don't want to use external source.

Purchase this converter

Then connect it as shown below

[phoenix1234]

This portion of the mod is if you kept the original 2.2v leds and don't want to use external source.
Purchase this converter
Then connect it as shown below

Show Image

Thumps up +1
Simply, this is the best solution so far.
I just make an order of 3 converter items (extra for backup) and I'm preparing for some soldering works  :))

[Thechemist]

This portion of the mod is if you kept the original 2.2v leds and don't want to use external source.
Purchase this converter
Then connect it as shown below

Show Image

Thumps up +1
Simply, this is the best solution so far.
I just make an order of 3 converter items (extra for backup) and I'm preparing for some soldering works  :))

Thanks, I have the 3.2v leds working with the same converter but there is no dimmer option atm ( unlike the version i posted above which does )but I am still working on perfecting and calculating the resistance on that part. I have a lot of other projects that require my attention atm but I will post more detail instructions for both mods. If you or anyone else needs some help, just post it here and I will try my best to help you out.

[Thechemist]

Preview of the current progress of the LED mod. No dimmer option ( yet ).

[SmallFry]

Thanks for that link, I needed to get one to make a soldering fume sucker. (or at least something similar, I'll have to look)

[Thechemist]

Thanks for that link, I needed to get one to make a soldering fume sucker. (or at least something similar, I'll have to look)

It works great.

Edit:

I also purchased This converter so that i can test things out without having to solder anything, only drawback to this one is that its bulky and there is coil whine/buzz once more than 3v is introduced to it ( mine could be defective ).

[phoenix1234]

only drawback to this one is that its bulky and there is coil whine/buzz once more than 3v is introduced to it ( mine could be defective ).

That's the reason I purchased 3 instead of 1 , I really don't want to fry the board out  )

[Tarzan]

============================================================================

This portion of the mod is if you kept the original 2.2v leds and don't want to use external source.

Purchase this converter

Then connect it as shown below

Show Image

Show Image

============================================================================

I have two of these TG3 boards, one with red LEDs (works fine on a PS2 port) and the other with the 12v white LEDs.  I went ahead and ordered two of the voltage converter boards you've linked above, going to try the mod that keeps the stock LEDs.

I've also ordered green LEDs, might try swapping them for the whites for that mini-ToXiC look. 

Thanks for this thread, it's inspired me to try soldering a keyboard for the first time!

[neoezekiel]

I ended up with a pair of these also, I will be attempting the 12v -> 5v mod once I see your results, definitely keeping a close eye on this thread.

Have you found a good key replacement for the 1.5x '1' key by any chance? I was thinking about just using a 1x but I hate the idea of having that gap open.

[Tarzan]

I ended up with a pair of these also, I will be attempting the 12v -> 5v mod once I see your results, definitely keeping a close eye on this thread.

Have you found a good key replacement for the 1.5x '1' key by any chance? I was thinking about just using a 1x but I hate the idea of having that gap open.

I haven't found any yet, but I'm thinking a 1.5x blank modifier would fill in nicely, something in a DSA profile.  I've got a couple of different sets on order via various group buys, once I get them in I'll experiment with the TG3.

[Tarzan]

============================================================================

This portion of the mod is if you kept the original 2.2v leds and don't want to use external source.

Purchase this converter

Then connect it as shown below

Show Image

Show Image

============================================================================

I have two of these TG3 boards, one with red LEDs (works fine on a PS2 port) and the other with the 12v white LEDs.  I went ahead and ordered two of the voltage converter boards you've linked above, going to try the mod that keeps the stock LEDs.

I've also ordered green LEDs, might try swapping them for the whites for that mini-ToXiC look. 

Thanks for this thread, it's inspired me to try soldering a keyboard for the first time!

So I got the voltage converters in yesterday, should be all set to try the modification this weekend.  I ordered via the link provided, but the units I received are a little bit different than the one shown in the OP pictures.




Not sure how significant these differences are, but so far I can see;

a. The large wire-wound unit in the middle of the PCB has 470 on the top, not 330 as in your pic
b. The unit I bought has voltage output numbers silkscreened on the PCB: "OUT 6/9/12/16/24V"
c. The three capacitors (?) are listed as 10/22UF, instead of 10/33UF as in your pictures

All of these could just be updated components, and I'm not too worried about burning out some LEDs, but I wanted to flag the obvious differences in case there were functional issues down the line. 

More updates once I have to chance to solder the new converter in place!

[phoenix1234]

For anyone who is interested in modifying the board like the way advised by Thechemist (using a converter), I would like to share some pictures of a board that I did. I used 2 molex wires to have better looking instead of soldering directly.









The only thing left is to put the converter into a protector before assembling the board back.

[Tarzan]

For anyone who is interested in modifying the board like the way advised by Thechemist (using a converter), I would like to share some pictures of a board that I did. I used 2 molex wires to have better looking instead of soldering directly.

The only thing left is to put the converter into a protector before assembling the board back.

That's a nice and tidy installation!  Have you tested the illumination levels? 

Just thinking ahead; if there was enough interest in these 12v lighting mods, it'd be possible to put together a plug-in kit to mod the TG3 boards, using your Molex connector options.  (Not sure there's actually enough people buying the 12v TG3's to make it worthwhile, mind you...)

[phoenix1234]

For anyone who is interested in modifying the board like the way advised by Thechemist (using a converter), I would like to share some pictures of a board that I did. I used 2 molex wires to have better looking instead of soldering directly.

The only thing left is to put the converter into a protector before assembling the board back.

That's a nice and tidy installation!  Have you tested the illumination levels? 

Just thinking ahead; if there was enough interest in these 12v lighting mods, it'd be possible to put together a plug-in kit to mod the TG3 boards, using your Molex connector options.  (Not sure there's actually enough people buying the 12v TG3's to make it worthwhile, mind you...)

I did a semi-test with Fn+UP => max illumination.
Here is the result:

[Hellmark]

Is there any way to tell which is which before cracking it open? I didn't know if there was a slight difference in model number or something. Thinking about getting one. Right now it appears that the MC2-TG3-TP, with the touchpad is what is mostly available.

I heard on the ones without the touchpad 4 dots on spacebar meant clears, and 2 dots meant black. Didn't know if same stood true for the touchpad version.

[Tarzan]

I don't know if there is a way to identify the keys used without removing a cap.  I did try Googling the part number on the back of the TG3 BL82 I bought that had MX Clears, and got one result in Japanese, with white/beige keycaps and MX Blue switches.  It looks like there were quite a few different variants made.

http://aucview.aucfan.com/yahoo/r105004775/

I think most of the units on offer at the moment are the style with integrated trackpad.  There are a few of the MX Clear units still for sale, but they've had quite the price bump.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cherry-TG3-BL82-MX-CLEAR-industrial-grade-Space-Saver-keyboard-/221274336107?pt=PCA_Mice_Trackballs&hash=item3384fa6b6b

Is there any way to tell which is which before cracking it open? I didn't know if there was a slight difference in model number or something. Thinking about getting one. Right now it appears that the MC2-TG3-TP, with the touchpad is what is mostly available.

I heard on the ones without the touchpad 4 dots on spacebar meant clears, and 2 dots meant black. Didn't know if same stood true for the touchpad version.

[Hellmark]

Yeah, if I was going to spend a hundred bucks on a used keyboard with clears, I'd just say screw it and go for a Code. I know then I'd be getting a layout I like, and warranty