atkbd.softraw=0
kernel /vmlinuz26 root=/dev/md0 ro atkbd.softraw=0
sudo showkey -s
sudo setkeycodes 75 43
Whaddya know - there's SUPPOSED to be images but Vbulletin has a nasty habit of erasing them if you take too long editing the post.And that's why I prepare articles in a text editor before posting...
Show Image(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2274/2242132459_cfde3e7a6c_o.jpg)
That was a good movie...shame nobody I know is familiar with it.
Is that from Memento? Great flick.
Which Model F works with modern PCs? XT, or AT?
Lol, no :P. Its my coding board.Actually, it seems you took a lot of time writing the disassembly, even though that has been explained before. We should make a wiki article about it. :wink:
It took me longer to do the write up than it did to figure out/complete the mod.
Best part is is its easily reversable (why you'd want to do that, I don't know).
I think this mod will be one of the classics. Well done.
If you (webtwot) think this mod will be "one of the classics" then I'm absolutely convinced it's a bad move.
The last thing I would consider attempting to do is **** up a perfectly good$500 NIB sealed 84-key PC AT Model F. Let's see how fast the market value can drop for a pristine sealed vintage board of which there are only a handful that still exist.
In fact, I wouldn't peform this mod with any of my other used 84-key AT Model Fs either. I like the large enter key, the Control Key is where God intended it to be, and the small backspace key is something I've become accustomed to.
Having burned literally thousands of dollars during the past 12 months on virtually every type of key switch, vintage or current production, I've come full circle back to exclusively using my 84-key AT keyboards at the office and at home.
Beam spring keyboards aside (I've never seen one or used one) there ain't nothin' better than the IBM buckling spring over capacitive contacts key switch used in the 84-key Model F. Everything else, Model M's Cherry toys, even the good ones, suck **** in comparison.
The only mod worth attempting is JBerts space bar force reduction mod. Done correctly, that makes the 84-key damn near perfect.
HaaTa, have you noticed any difference in feel between the original Model F keys and the replacement Model M keys?
ripster had pointed out that the slots in the key stems are different lengths, possibly affecting how a spring buckles...
Oh dear, attack out of nowhere. I can do this, I was twelve once. Let's see. If you (maxloser) have a problem, maybe you should mention it instead of randomly attacking me like a little kid.
The club?
The only mod worth attempting is JBerts space bar force reduction mod. Done correctly, that makes the 84-key damn near perfect.Ehr, my spacebar mod also violates the warranty. Be warned.
Ehr, my spacebar mod also violates the warranty. Be warned.
That was a good movie...shame nobody I know is familiar with it.
Windows will just naturally pick up the scancode. No sudo involved.So will we need to make an autohotkey script to remap the new code, or will this not be necessary?
you need a M stableiser rod.....
Yup, those white plastic inserts are the ones.
Lol, I need to take mine apart to reseat the ; and " keys. Usually I just shake the whole board a bunch of times, usually works. But the " key seems to be more stubborn.
Oh well my MX Red board needed some lov'n anyways.
[see wire trick]... I found it easiest to connect the lower part of the assembly first, sliding the metal plate into the slots and then gently closing the assembly together and crimping the metal tabs (what a terrible method to attach the plate and the frame together) in order to complete the assembly.Wait, are you bending all the tabs?!? There are 6 or 8, but only one needs to be bent.
____
| /
| \
When the last one on the top or bottom row without a notch is bent away from the notch in the backplate, you should be able to slide front- and backplate away until it unlocks from the cuts in the other tabs.Wait, are you bending all the tabs?!? There are 6 or 8, but only one needs to be bent.
Check it, most have a special cut like this:Code: [Select]____
When the last one on the top or bottom row without a notch is bent away from the notch in the backplate, you should be able to slide front- and backplate away until it unlocks from the cuts in the other tabs.
| /
| \
Better make sure to straighten them again!
Wait, are you bending all the tabs?!? There are 6 or 8, but only one needs to be bent.
Check it, most have a special cut like this:Code: [Select]____
When the last one on the top or bottom row without a notch is bent away from the notch in the backplate, you should be able to slide front- and backplate away until it unlocks from the cuts in the other tabs.
| /
| \
Better make sure to straighten them again!
It's nearly impossible to assemble it wrong. If you reversed the backplate, you couldn't have mounted the controller board. Should you reverse the frontplate, the F-key rows would be on the right.
Take a look at an large picture of the back of the assembly (http://img132.imageshack.us/i/img3325.jpg/) from the Model F porn (http://geekhack.org/showwiki.php?title=Island:6580) article. The bent tab is at the top right. If you then put the whole assembly upright (with the right edge of the backplate in the picture on your desk), you should be able to push down on the backplate. (Obviously keep them together until you have placed it flat again lest the hammers fall out.)
Once you got them flat again, lift the top or bottom edge of the backplate a little and you should be able to slide the backplate away from you or towards you, releasing it from the opposite row of tabs.
Clear enough?
There are some Youtube videos around of people taking apart model Fs. Since I'm currently using "narrow-band", I can't search for them.
Nice pics.
I'm almost ready to try it but did you take pics of this process?
In general it seems taking apart is easy. Putting back together is difficult.
P.S. The "don't mod my baby" comment of the one seller cracked me up. Is this an Open Adoption where you have to send pictures every Christmas?
I'm pretty sure Maxlugar has to pay for it but we're talking keyboards in this thread.
...
Geekhack must be the most "off-topic" forum I have EVER been a member of. How does a backspace mod thread on a Model F keyboard turn into a discussion about Shakespeare and Poop???
So Rip, have you torn into that NIB PC AT board yet?? Or anyone else for that matter? C'mon boys and girls (and Webby).......get ur backspace mod FREAK on. I want to see if everyone else is as excited about this mod as I am. Can't be just me, Jbert and Haata??
Rip.....do this mod and I'm sure you'll toggle your ranking at least 2 to 3 spots. At least put it up in front of the Re^lforce LOL.
Now, if one of you rocket scientists can create a mod to add dedicated cursor control keys to the 84-key AT Model F. THAT would be impressive!
Where do you want them to be? There's no empty space on the board. AutoHotKey will be much simpler. Define your caps lock to add another layer of keys. E.g., Caps Lock + numpad 1,2,3,5 will be left, down, right, up. Caps Lock + numpad 4,7 for home, end, Caps Lock + numpad 6, 9 for pg up, pg down. Your thumb will almost naturally rest on Caps lock when your press those keys.
I want dedicated arrow keys in the shape of an inverted T!
AHK is not a real solution, but the keys I proposed, 1,2,3 and 5, are in the shape of an inverted T...
Are you still using your 84-key Model F? If so, what impressions have you formed relative to your other keyboards?
Hey, I'm excited!
Especially since SK graciously offered to help me with the mod for a modest fee. :)
For me, nothing else I've tried matches the satisfaction of a well kept 84-key PC AT Model F. I'm already accustomed to the non-standard layout, but Haa Taa's key mod seems like a way to make a great keyboard even better.
I hate to acknowledge when ripster is right, but I rely on the dedicated arrow keys more than I realized. When I toggle between the 84-key and my standard 87 or 104-key boards, the hardest adjustment is the lack of dedicated cursor control keys on the AT keyboard.
I have been very busy lately so I haven't had the time to post my impression of the nuts & bolts mod Model M Space Saving Mini. I have to say, I like it
much more than I expected.
I understand the ergonomic advantage of being able to place the mouse directly to the right of the keyboard - something I've not done with my Realforce 87U or HHKB Pro 2 because I usually place my 23UB numeric keypad to the right of the keyboard.
I'll try and post a more substantive review of the nuts & bolts Model M Mini when I have some free time.
Now, if one of you rocket scientists can create a mod to add dedicated cursor control keys to the 84-key AT Model F, THAT would be impressive!
Not using it much (been trying a Topre 87u lately), but it's the best thing I've typed on. (That's not saying much. I've only tried Cherry brown/black, Black Alps, Model M and Topre.) Until we have a good solution for arrow keys I can't use the Model F for much text editing, which is what I do a lot these days. Someone needs to do a mod to bring back the two unused contacts under the space bar. With more modifier keys by the thumbs, a true hhkb-styled layout mod may become feasible (I want left-thumb Fn + IJKL to be the arrows).
This reminds me. What happened to msiegel's Model F Mod?
Well unless the controller dies, then I'll have fun with it (cry first though).
Don't hold your breath pal. IBM Model F keyboards are like Keith Richards. You can abuse the hell out of 'em but they just keep working. (with the exception of Coke spills).
We'll probably all be long gone before the controller in you 84-key AT keyboard dies. After the final world war, the survivors will be Keith, cockroaches, and Model F keyboards :)
I don't get it. Who the hell needs a big backspace key? Do people reach for the backspace, miss it, and hit the backslash instead? You'd have to be either spastic or drunk to do that. (...I guess I answered my own question there...;)
The only problem I ever have with my AT keyboard is when some stupid application wants me to "press F12".
I personally don't have a problem with the small Backspace key on the 84-key AT keyboards, nor the large inverted L Enter key.
What applications are you using which require F12? I can't remember the last time I used any application which required F11 or F12.
Ah the F12/F11. Yeah in software F11 is often used for Fullscreen. Recently migrated away from Opera, so that's no longer a problem for me. I really could've just fixed that with software though.
F12 is often used for BIOS keys, so I usually need to keep a spare board around for that.
I don't get it. Who the hell needs a big backspace key? Do people reach for the backspace, miss it, and hit the backslash instead? You'd have to be either spastic or drunk to do that. (...I guess I answered my own question there...;)
The only problem I ever have with my AT keyboard is when some stupid application wants me to "press F12".
If you keep hitting \ it means the HHKB layout is better.
Ah the F12/F11. Yeah in software F11 is often used for Fullscreen. Recently migrated away from Opera, so that's no longer a problem for me. I really could've just fixed that with software though.
F12 is often used for BIOS keys, so I usually need to keep a spare board around for that.
So Rip, have you torn into that NIB PC AT board yet?? Or anyone else for that matter? C'mon boys and girls (and Webby).......get ur backspace mod FREAK on. I want to see if everyone else is as excited about this mod as I am. Can't be just me, Jbert and Haata??Actually, I haven't done this mod. I like the keyboard pretty much as it is, only the extremely heavy weight of the spacebar was killing my thumb. (Seriously, with its 70-80g it was 1/3 heavier than the rest of the keys)
Actually, I haven't done this mod. I like the keyboard pretty much as it is, only the extremely heavy weight of the spacebar was killing my thumb. (Seriously, with its 70-80g it was 1/3 heavier than the rest of the keys)
Seeing how I use Colemak, I can still use my Caps Lock key which I can safely press with the edge of my right hand.
Never used it though, I tend to hit the backspace key accurately.
SK - can you take some pics during reassembly. This alignment thing sounded confusing.
Ack! G15! Child Protection Services!
SK - can you take some pics during reassembly. This alignment thing sounded confusing.
Thanks! That does help. Your foam stuff looks pretty new too - I was worried it would start crumbling in my hands.
And follow JBert's instructions on removing the spring on the space bar. That helped. You'll need some needle nose pliers to replace the bar.Thanks for posting pics about the looped-wire trick I described earlier. I'll post my original pics in the other mod thread, still hadn't got to it.
I don't know how anyone removes the space bar on these without taking the entire assembly apart. You'll see what I mean as soon as you start working on it.Some people read "all keys except the spacebar" as "all keys". They then accidentally discover that you can pry off the spacebar by pulling until the stabilizer spring bends.
Oh.....and don't forget to remove the keys before getting started. Otherwise, all of the hammer/springs will fly off.
Thanks for posting pics about the looped-wire trick I described earlier. I'll post my original pics in the other mod thread, still hadn't got to it.
Some people read "all keys except the spacebar" as "all keys". They then accidentally discover that you can pry off the spacebar by pulling until the stabilizer spring bends.
This doesn't mean you should do it as you may damage the board. You'll need to disassemble the keyboard anyway seeing how you can't get the stabilizer spring connected to the spacebar. Actually, incidents like a removed spacebar is how most people learn that it can take a whole afternoon to assemble it your first time.
Posted my original looped-wire pictures here (http://geekhack.org/showwiki.php?title=Island:8865&redirect=no#Bonus+Tip:+Holding+The+Spacebar+Hammer+In+Place). I've linked to your post containing the picture with the PTFE floss.
Another note. My 11 yr. old son shares my main computer with me and he's had an opportunity to try out all of my various keyboards. Hates the HHKB2 and doesn't understand why I would want an "Otaku" style board.
His faves thus far:
1. IBM PC AT Model F
2. Filco Blue with the DS keys
3. IBM Space Saving Mini
4. Logitech G15 (likes the screen for gaming)
Too funny!!!!
If the 84-key PC AT Model F is your 11 year old son's favourite keyboard, I may have to reconsider the KING of Keyboards :)
Yeah, what do you think of his 4th choice?? He also likes Legos.....
You guys are missing the wave. Big bucks in Lego Porn.
Stop buggin me. I gotta finish up my iPad app.Show Image(http://25.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_kvx7tmVLX01qztbrao1_400.jpg)
Haha. Got me. I don't have the blue guy.
Does it involve the Right Shift?
Cut off that useless numpad! It doesn't even have an ENTER.
Thanks to Unicomp:
But man, Unicomp must hate me. These keys look like complete crap
Actually I think Chuck is not so subtly telling us that he's not really interested in being in the custom key printing business.
I think they mount them all in the same machine, colored ones too, but sometimes they don't mount them well or the machinery is aging. Also the ink is smudgy sometimes. Looks a bit lazy to me. I guess if they make 10, a few are not so good. They should throw these away. The best way to achieve this is by trolling Chuck, by telling him how fantastic Lexmark quality control is.
However, I am plugged into a usb port - at->ps2->usb
Maybe this has something to do with it.
Actually I'm thinking it may just be windows. I will check to see if its the hammer...although I don't think its the pad..everything else on the board works great, and it looked great when I inspected.
I would really like to hear from someone who has ACTUALLY done this mod and is using it with windows. I Don't remember anyone confirming this works, just some speculation that it "should" work.
It is theoretically possible to mod the keyboard to have a standard sized space bar and two Alt keys flanking it. However, you'd have to a) cut out two holes in the plate to make room for the barrels for the extra Alt keys, and b) find some way of holding the stabilizer bar for a Model M space bar.
Those switches under the alt keys? They do not return any scan codes. At all. In fact, they are the only switches on the board that do not return scan codes.
did you connect the keyboard to the computer you were testing the keyboard with directly to a PS/2 or AT port, or did you use a USB adapter? USB adapters can sometimes drop certain non-standard scancodes.I was using a USB-to-PS/2 adapter, but it returned scan-codes just fine on every other "non-standard" position. Maybe those positions are different for some reason.
Show Image(http://www.danielbeaver.net/storage/projects/keyboards/model-f-spacebar-mod/25092010837.jpg)
Maybe someday I'll do the same. :D
Those switches under the alt keys? They do not return any scan codes. At all. In fact, they are the only switches on the board that do not return scan codes.
Success. I used a dremel to open up the alt key slots a bit, and used hot glue to hold them in place. I replaced the spacebar stem with a normal stem, and it fits perfectly without modification. The fit within the case is very tight - I ended up cutting away some of the alt keycaps to keep them from binding against the spacebar. Works perfectly now.
So I thought I'd list here the scancodes generated by each extra pad, as read by Windows using a native PS/2 port:Thanks for that, I've added a link to your post in the conclusion of the article.