Lets Build a Keyboard (need help)

[Spazoman13]

hey, my name is jesse and I am wanting to get started in building my own custom keyboard. I have never done this before but I do have a decent knowledge of how to get started. If you want, please follow my video series and let me know if there is anything i am doing wrong. Here is the link to the intro video:

thanks for the help/ support and hopefully this will get some attention!

[jacobolus]

What exactly are your goals with your project? Is there any particular feature that you want that you can’t get on existing keyboards? Or you just want to get experience making stuff? What kind of experience do you have so far? Have you taken apart any keyboards?

How clear are you on your goals: do you have a strong idea in your mind or are you still figuring it out? Are you trying to make something “minimum viable” as a first prototype, or do you want this keyboard to last a decade?

Do you have a plan about what you’ll do for a layout, case, plate, etc.? Are you trying to fit with some existing set of components, or make something completely from scratch (besides the Teensy/switches)? If you want to design your own plate, do you have access to a CNC / laser / water cutter, or are you going to just hire someone to make a plate? (Or will this just be PCB-mounted switches?) Likewise for the case.

Personally, I’d recommend just using direct wiring for prototypes, until you have figured out what you like w/r/t layout, type of switches, etc., saving time on the PCB design. But maybe that’s just my lack of experience with PCB design tools talking.

Here’s another Jesse making some keyboards:
http://blog.keyboard.io/post/77079283676/better-and-better-keyboards
Or just go to http://blog.keyboard.io and start at the farthest down post

[Spazoman13]

well now that you mention it, looking back at the video I didn't really explain much... So to answer your questions:

My goal is to build a custom keyboard, mostly because I want the experience. I also want to be able to point at the keyboard and say "I built that" and have it be mine, if you get what I mean. That, and it just looks like fun!

As for experience that I already have, I know how general components work and I know most things about software (such as programming), but hardware is the one thing I don't really know that much about, and I want to know everything I can about computers.

To be honest, I'm not really clear on my goals, and I'm doing that on purpose. I want this to be a learning experience and I'm willing to go all out in the process. I'm also not expecting a brilliant product, just something that I can walk away from with the knowledge of how it works.

My plans are pretty simple, and I'm open to suggestions. I want a TKL keyboard (just a standard layout) with a custom pcb, case, and plate. How I'm going to make the plate and case I have yet to figure out. I'm thinking about getting a plate made from somewhere I have yet to decide on, and making a nice looking wood case for the rest. But as I said, I'm open to suggestions.

I also want to go the PCB route simply because I can take the experience from that and apply it to much more projects in the future. That and I think it looks way nicer than hand wiring...

[jacobolus]

Well, welcome to geekhack.

If you have any specific questions, I’m sure there’s someone here who can help with just about any aspect of that.

Sounds like a fun project! Good luck!

[fohat.digs]

I would suggest that you completely dismantle and reassemble a keyboard or 2 and see what is really there.

Then build a custom case around a working chassis.

You would be hard-pressed to get something more awesome than this:

http://deskthority.net/workshop-f7/the-apple-m0110-today-t1067.html#p18549

[Spazoman13]

I would suggest that you completely dismantle and reassemble a keyboard or 2 and see what is really there.

Then build a custom case around a working chassis.

You would be hard-pressed to get something more awesome than this:

http://deskthority.net/workshop-f7/the-apple-m0110-today-t1067.html#p18549

I have taken apart a couple keyboards before and I feel like I know the internal workings pretty well. And working around an already working chassis is a good idea, but I want everything to be custom built. And plus, I don't have enough working keyboards that meet my specifications for this project (cherry MX, TKL, etc.).

[Oobly]

Building a plate and PCB can get pricey if you just do one. Designing the PCB also takes some knowledge and time, but is a good skill to learn.

If you design the plate yourself, first decide what stabilisers you want to use (some are plate mounted, some are PCB mounted) and whether you want the switches to be openable while in place (allows springs / sliders to be changed and other mods to be done, but requires notches on the sides of each switch hole). There are some good threads here (on GH) with custom plates you can get ideas from. I don't recommend doing a really different, crazy layout unless you are sure it will be properly usable for you. Standard or almost standard ANSI TKL is a good one to start with. It also means your board will be compatible with most aftermarket keycap sets. ISO TKL is also okay, but there are less sets for it

You can have the plate cut by laser or waterjet for you by quite a number of places (such as this place: http://cuttingsolutionsinc.com/ ) or simply buy a standard TKL plate or one of the custom ones made by other GHers. The only way I can see to properly DIY a plate is if you have access to a CNC machine. Some places can anodise the plate with different finishes and colours if you use aluminium (for a real custom look ). I recommend anodising aluminium plates because it makes them a little tougher and hardens the surface. Steel plates can be powder coated different colours, too. A steel plate is better if your case can flex, aluminium is fine for a more solid case or if you don't need it to be really stiff or your PCB is really solidly mounted (many mount points).

The PCB can also be produced by some online companies. With the plate, you may find it's worth doing a batch of a certain number so it uses a whole sheet of metal. Also the PCB's usually get cheaper the more you order. You may find a local electronics store that'll do a single PCB at a decent price, or you could even etch it yourself if you want to include that in your "I did it myself" portfolio of skills. A single sided board is best in that case.

You could also go "plateless", just PCB and case, although I prefer the feel of a plate mounted board and a custom really should feel special.

A handmade wooden case sounds great

Good luck and please keep us updated on your progress!

[Spazoman13]

Hey all!

Thanks for all the amazing feedback I have received already!

Unfortunately I am on vacation all the way across the country, so I will be unable to work on this project for another week... As soon as I get back I will post my progress so far. Thanks again and have a wonderful day!

[ProCarpet]

For the Case part. Do you have any expirience with CAD programms or/and CNC machining? If yes what CAD programm do you use and which machine.

For the backplate you can lasercut that very cheep. Materials to use: I recomend stainless steel or alu because bot dont rust and you can even anodize the alu (some better some not that good AlMgSi1 is in general a good choice)

For the Case i think it should be possible to 3D print that in a shop but that laks quality. Then there is the method of making it out of  laser/watter cutet metal/plastic plates definitly worthyer than a 3D print.
And then there is the "best" way to do it by miling it out of a complete block is the stabilest version definitly looks the best and is the worthyest but also the most expensive. For example the average cost for a CNC machine is like 230euros and a worker cost (in my country) at least 80euros an hour. And milling a keyboard (depends on the design) takes minimum 40minutes.
Or you could make it from wood also a very nice material but also there you need skill and knowledge but its the best looking soulution next to the miling.

Just read the comment 2 abov yeah sry for unnecsary content. :/

[ProCarpet]

I recommend anodising aluminium plates because it makes them a little tougher and hardens the surface.

Colored anodising only baerly makes the surface thougher. If you want to make it mechanical thougher thre is a special anodizing for that calde hard anodizing. But do you really need that for a keyboard. ^^
Important is that you chose an alu that is fittet for "optical andoizing" or something.

[mkawa]

just fyi, this is a bit of an aside, but both lowpoly and matt3o have made some absolutely beautiful hand-wired m0110s out of pieces of sad looking old ones.

point the second: samwisekoi made a series of custom boards that were really beautifully hand-wired.

point the third: moz and melvang have designed really nice little "one switch" pcbs that can be used to make hand-wiring a heck of a lot easier. the examples above all used solid core wires, and tricky diode leg manipulation to connect the switches. with the mozvang pcb, you can use regular hookup wire and then build your case literally out of modeling clay and just smush the pcbs in.

[Spazoman13]

point the third: moz and melvang have designed really nice little "one switch" pcbs that can be used to make hand-wiring a heck of a lot easier. the examples above all used solid core wires, and tricky diode leg manipulation to connect the switches. with the mozvang pcb, you can use regular hookup wire and then build your case literally out of modeling clay and just smush the pcbs in.

Where can I find this one switch pcb? Is it any cheaper than doing one big pcb? I guess I don't really know the advantages of hand wiring vs. pcb....

[Spazoman13]

Also, just as a side note, I would like to make the keyboard wireless if that's possible. I've seen some stuff about making an already built keyboard Bluetooth but I'd like to apply the same concept to what I'm doing here. Any ideas???

[Melvang]

point the third: moz and melvang have designed really nice little "one switch" pcbs that can be used to make hand-wiring a heck of a lot easier. the examples above all used solid core wires, and tricky diode leg manipulation to connect the switches. with the mozvang pcb, you can use regular hookup wire and then build your case literally out of modeling clay and just smush the pcbs in.

Where can I find this one switch pcb? Is it any cheaper than doing one big pcb? I guess I don't really know the advantages of hand wiring vs. pcb....

The group buy for these has not started yet.  The thread for the IC can be found here.  I have a batch of 9 pcbs of v2.0 scheduled to be delivered on Monday 21APR2014.  I will then be removing v1.0 pcbs from my test bed and installing v2.0 switches.  After this I will be starting a group buy.

The pcb fab shop I am using for these is www.oshpark.com.  They charge per square inch.  These pcbs are small enough they can be soldered to the switch before installing into a plate.  This is a required function for the custom project (link in my signature) I am working on because the plate will extend below where the pcb would normally sit.  Either way Osh Park charges $5 per square inch.  However, if we can get enough of these (600 pieces iirc) we can get the medium run pricing which is only $1 per pcb.  At this price it will only cost $26 to do a 104 key layout.  Having a single pcb run at that size will likely cost well over $100.  But with these switches it is a lot more soldering as each switch will have 8 pads to solder.  Two for the switch pins, two for the diode, two for the column interconnect, and two for the row interconnect.  But at a much cheaper price and much higher flexibility.  Plus these pcbs have pads for in switch LED's, pads for Diodes either in switch or out of switch using the same pads, SMD pads for LED resistor, and SMD pads for SMD diodes.  But the switches will need to be mounted in a plate.

[Spazoman13]

point the third: moz and melvang have designed really nice little "one switch" pcbs that can be used to make hand-wiring a heck of a lot easier. the examples above all used solid core wires, and tricky diode leg manipulation to connect the switches. with the mozvang pcb, you can use regular hookup wire and then build your case literally out of modeling clay and just smush the pcbs in.

Where can I find this one switch pcb? Is it any cheaper than doing one big pcb? I guess I don't really know the advantages of hand wiring vs. pcb....

The group buy for these has not started yet.  The thread for the IC can be found here.  I have a batch of 9 pcbs of v2.0 scheduled to be delivered on Monday 21APR2014.  I will then be removing v1.0 pcbs from my test bed and installing v2.0 switches.  After this I will be starting a group buy.

The pcb fab shop I am using for these is www.oshpark.com.  They charge per square inch.  These pcbs are small enough they can be soldered to the switch before installing into a plate.  This is a required function for the custom project (link in my signature) I am working on because the plate will extend below where the pcb would normally sit.  Either way Osh Park charges $5 per square inch.  However, if we can get enough of these (600 pieces iirc) we can get the medium run pricing which is only $1 per pcb.  At this price it will only cost $26 to do a 104 key layout.  Having a single pcb run at that size will likely cost well over $100.  But with these switches it is a lot more soldering as each switch will have 8 pads to solder.  Two for the switch pins, two for the diode, two for the column interconnect, and two for the row interconnect.  But at a much cheaper price and much higher flexibility.  Plus these pcbs have pads for in switch LED's, pads for Diodes either in switch or out of switch using the same pads, SMD pads for LED resistor, and SMD pads for SMD diodes.  But the switches will need to be mounted in a plate.

I think I will go with the single PCB route. The one switch PCBs are a really good idea, but I plan on taking the knowledge that I get from this project and applying it to other future projects which will involve PCB design. Thanks for the info tho Melvang, and please keep your eyes on this thread, any help I can get is much appreciated!

[Melvang]

Not a problem.  Fair warning though, I do not have any experience with designing anything other than the custom project I am working on and it is def one of a kind with the switch plate alone weighing more than a long of other fully assembled keyboards.

[Spazoman13]

Okay, so I just got back from vacation, so the first video will be up in about a day. Let me know what you think!