Author Topic: Headphone Thread.  (Read 1309162 times)

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Offline rknize

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Headphone Thread.
« Reply #1100 on: Wed, 02 May 2012, 12:58:16 »
The bottom line is that you need to go with whatever sounds the best to your ears.  :)  Sorry about the rant...you hit a nerve.
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Offline prava

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Headphone Thread.
« Reply #1101 on: Wed, 02 May 2012, 14:05:41 »
Quote from: rknize;588255
The bottom line is that you need to go with whatever sounds the best to your ears.  :)  Sorry about the rant...you hit a nerve.

Only chance to do that is by blind testing, I'm afraid ;)

Offline rknize

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« Reply #1102 on: Wed, 02 May 2012, 15:28:04 »
Quote from: prava;588291
Only chance to do that is by blind testing, I'm afraid ;)

Well, for very subtle differences, yeah.  But it's pretty easy to hear the difference between a conventional PP amp and an SE one.

Anyway, to get this thread back on topic, I'm currently listening with a pair of cheap Sennheiser HD-428 headphones.  Someone stole my Grados off my desk at work a while back and I bought these from a local electronics store in a pinch.  They are not bad for what I paid.  Honestly, since I listen through my desk PC's mediocre on-board sound, it doesn't matter all that much.  I also listen to a lot of podcasts, like ASoT.  High fidelity MP3 compression artifacts are better heard through medium-fi headphones.  :)

Since the Grados were my only good set, what I have at home is just a pair of inexpensive Sony headphones.  MDR-XD200, or some such.  Again, not great but not bad either.  Perfectly fine for listening through my PC.  If I want to do serious listening, I don't do it with headphones.

Every time I start looking at better headphones, I get lost in a sea of possibilities and prices.  One thing I didn't like about the SR80 was long-term ear comfort.
Russ

Offline Ragnorock

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« Reply #1103 on: Wed, 02 May 2012, 16:03:32 »
Quote from: rknize;588148
Tubes add less "stuff" to the signal than any transistor can.  In fact, certain triodes are still the most linear discrete voltage amplification devices that exist.  It's all about circuit topology.  The picture is complicated, but the short story is that transistors have poor linearity but are small (think IC) and cheap.  So you can create nearly-ideal amplification circuits using many transistors using various types of feedback loops and so forth.  How this circuit is designed and how it recovers from overload/etc is where the differences lie.  Some of them are really good.  Many of the amp ICs found in consumer electronics are not so great.  When combined with cheapskate power supplies, they are awful.

Tubes are large and expensive.  You can build a fairly complex tube amp that has nearly perfect linearity using similar techniques as above.  I have built many.  The only sane way to get high power (> 20W) is with a push-pull topology, which will inherently need global negative feedback and some careful design choices.  Sometimes you can use local feedback and get away from global feedback (the enemy of overload recovery).  One amp that I built does this with astonishing ease (and puts out ~100WPC to boot)!

The amps you guys are talking about here are single-ended and probably have no or some local feedback.  You can get away with this using tubes because they are inherently very linear.  SE amps tend to have a dominant second harmonic and low odd harmonics.  The human ear also has a dominant 2nd harmonic, and it is believed that this may be why SE amps have that "warm", pleasant sound to them.  Push-pull amps will tend have dominant odd harmonics and therefore need feedback to quell them.  Odd harmonics sound "harsh".

Anyway, I'll get off my tube soapbox....
I agree with this, and yeah my amp is single ended but coupled with an output transformer to get the juice.

I hear what you guys are saying though. As I haven't tried an M-stage, I can't make a fair comparison. I did do my research when buying this amp though, and I feel like the extra cost was 100% justified over something like a Lyr or an M-Stage. Also, when I say the sound is different when amped, I mean that the AKGs are no longer anemic in the bass section because they have the voltage on tap when asked for. The tubes don't make it sound super warm, or color the reference spec sound you get from the 701s to begin with... they just sound how 701s are supposed to sound.

Offline J-P

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Headphone Thread.
« Reply #1104 on: Wed, 02 May 2012, 18:22:45 »
Have any of you peeps tried the super-cheapo-plastic-fantastic Superlux HD668b? It's shocking how good they are for $30. I mean... old news I think, but I picked up a pair last month, modded them a little (took out filters + opened up the backs) and these things sound GREAT. The only bad point is that there is no isolation... at home though, or where people don't mind hearing them - they are ossum.
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Offline prava

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« Reply #1105 on: Wed, 02 May 2012, 19:04:57 »
Quote from: J-P;588520
Have any of you peeps tried the super-cheapo-plastic-fantastic Superlux HD668b? It's shocking how good they are for $30. I mean... old news I think, but I picked up a pair last month, modded them a little (took out filters + opened up the backs) and these things sound GREAT. The only bad point is that there is no isolation... at home though, or where people don't mind hearing them - they are ossum.

Deffinitely not suited for porn when you are not alone at home xd

Offline alaricljs

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« Reply #1106 on: Wed, 02 May 2012, 20:42:30 »
Hmmm, so AKG K 272 HD... or DT770 Pro 250?  Any thoughts?


Or perhaps the K 271 MK II ?
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Offline rknize

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« Reply #1107 on: Thu, 03 May 2012, 01:11:09 »
My most recent "headphone amp":

[ Attachment Invalid Or Does Not Exist ] 49752[/ATTACH]
[ Attachment Invalid Or Does Not Exist ] 49751[/ATTACH]

It was originally built by my dad in the '60s.  I completely refurbished and rebuilt it using a new power supply circuit.  Puts out around 60WPC.

This is the amp I spoke about before, using "Schade" feedback:

[ Attachment Invalid Or Does Not Exist ] 49753[/ATTACH]

That one was designed by Pete Millett, who intended it as a ~17WPC amp using television sweep tubes as the finals.  It is a very conservative design.  With bigger finals and lots more voltage on the plates, 80-100WPC can be reached.

Pete has a rather nice headphone amp project for the adventurous: the Jonokuchi.  It's on my list of things to try.

http://www.pmillett.com/Jonokuchi.htm

Here are my flea-power amps, both are Tubelab designs.  The SSE (8-14WPC, depending which output tubes and triode vs ultralinear):

[ Attachment Invalid Or Does Not Exist ] 49756[/ATTACH]
[ Attachment Invalid Or Does Not Exist ] 49757[/ATTACH]

The TSE (2 or 8WPC, depending if you runs 45s or 300Bs).  Setup with 45s, it makes a decent headphone amp, actually.

[ Attachment Invalid Or Does Not Exist ] 49758[/ATTACH]
[ Attachment Invalid Or Does Not Exist ] 49759[/ATTACH]
Russ

Offline laffindude

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« Reply #1108 on: Thu, 03 May 2012, 01:49:28 »
Those are some pretty amps.
I honestly think properly designed modern Class A SS amp sound very good already. I wouldn't trade my tubies for SS amp for my bass, but for headphones? Not so sure.Cheaper not so well designed tube amps are not going to sound better than a SS. Care into designing the circuits and picking components are probably worth more than tube vs SS.

Offline Ragnorock

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« Reply #1109 on: Thu, 03 May 2012, 11:19:06 »
Oh man those are gorgeous. Moar plzz. Are those 300bs getting gassy inside or are they just painted to look like that. The blue glow looks like they might be wearing out.

Offline rknize

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« Reply #1110 on: Thu, 03 May 2012, 13:09:17 »
Quote from: Ragnorock;589105
Oh man those are gorgeous. Moar plzz. Are those 300bs getting gassy inside or are they just painted to look like that. The blue glow looks like they might be wearing out.


Some of these pictures were taken with my old camera, which could not do long exposures worth a crap.  If you look carefully at the 300B mesh plates, the glow in on the glass.  This is a phenomenon known as tube florescence, which occurs because of impurities in the glass envelope.  Electrons that don't make it to the plate will strike the glass and cause the impurities to glow.  You'll usually see this in line with gaps in the plate structure.  In the case of the 300Bs, it's probably due to the meshed plates.  Now if you see blue or purple haze inside the envelope, especially in and around the cage (behind the plate), then you likely have a gassy tube:

[ Attachment Invalid Or Does Not Exist ] 49812[/ATTACH]
(not my amp, but an extreme case using a 211 transmitter tube)

Some more tube glow for you.  These are the vintage 8417s that came with this amp.  My dad bought them in the early '70s for < $1 each.  

[ Attachment Invalid Or Does Not Exist ] 49796[/ATTACH]

Here is my ST-70 right after the rebuild some years ago:

[ Attachment Invalid Or Does Not Exist ] 49790[/ATTACH]

This is a close up of a strange florescences that happens around the screens of SED's EL34s.  It has something to do with the coatings the SED uses on their screens.

[ Attachment Invalid Or Does Not Exist ] 49794[/ATTACH]

This is Tubelab's SPP.  I was one of George's "beta testers" for his kit, so I tossed it in this lock box.  I use it in my shop:

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Here it is during a bench test.  There were some issues with the design at first:

[ Attachment Invalid Or Does Not Exist ] 49795[/ATTACH]

More pictures and info here:

http://www.knizefamily.net/russ/category/electronics/tubeaudio/
Russ

Offline rknize

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« Reply #1111 on: Thu, 03 May 2012, 14:23:18 »
OK, so this thread has me looking at DACs again.  I guess I'm looking for a ~$300 all-in-one (DAC+amp)?  The Matrix Cube seems to fit the bill well, but it has some shortcomings.  I am somewhat intrigued by the Maverick Tubemagic D1.  It seems like a real hit on head-fi.  Thoughts?
Russ

Offline Ragnorock

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« Reply #1112 on: Thu, 03 May 2012, 14:27:30 »
Hmm, considering how well off you seem to be in the amp section, I would just go for a standalone, but I'm not sure what you're planning on using it for. I have my eyes on a Schiit Bifrost though, so much want... but the Matrix is a good DAC too.

Offline rknize

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« Reply #1113 on: Thu, 03 May 2012, 14:38:04 »
Those are all power amps that live in my recroom (or my shop when they are apart).  I don't use headphones with them.  I'm looking for something to put on my (somewhat crowded) desk to serve as a replacement for my sound card outputs.  But you do make a good point.  What DAC are you using?

Oh...and I have to know...do you game through your tube amp?  :)
Russ

Offline Ragnorock

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« Reply #1114 on: Thu, 03 May 2012, 14:52:33 »
At the moment I don't have a DAC, just the ****ty onboard DAC in either my MBP or my gaming tower, but yeah, I have used it to game on before. The problem is that when I use it on the gaming rig, the mobo has so much signal noise that when I run it through the amp I get a noticeable hum, so I usually bypass the amp and just deal with it. When gaming on my laptop though, it does sound pretty sweet... its mostly the headphones, but so many times have I turned around thinking that noise was in the room... and it wasn't.

Offline rknize

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« Reply #1115 on: Thu, 03 May 2012, 15:04:00 »
The hum is probably a ground loop, since both the computer case and the amp are earthed.  Are they both plugged into the same wall outlet/power strip?  Have you tried clamping a wire between your PC and your amp chassis?  There is a little trick you can do to the safety ground of your amp to break the ground loop, if you are adventurous.  :)
Russ

Offline Ragnorock

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« Reply #1116 on: Thu, 03 May 2012, 15:27:33 »
That's a good point, and I will try that. I assume you mean that is the trick? I'm an enthusiast, not an engineer lol.

Offline rknize

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« Reply #1117 on: Thu, 03 May 2012, 15:35:08 »
No, the trick involved busting the thing open and doing a bit of soldering.  :)
Russ

Offline Ragnorock

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« Reply #1118 on: Thu, 03 May 2012, 15:58:30 »
Been there, had to modify the metal plate everything was mounted to as it had bowed down and the tube sockets were angled such that I couldn't fit some of my fatter tubes without the glass touching the side of the socket hole in the case. I didn't do any soldering though, since it didn't require any and I don't have any such tools anymore.

Offline rknize

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« Reply #1119 on: Thu, 03 May 2012, 16:10:00 »
Ah, I see.  Well, for the record, the trick involves putting 2 series pairs of high-current diodes in parallel at opposite polarities between the chassis ground and the signal ground of the amp.  It's another trick from Pete Millett:

[ Attachment Invalid Or Does Not Exist ] 49874[/ATTACH]

This gives the signal ground ~ +/- 1.4V of wiggle room with respect to earth ground.  The diodes are selected to have much greater current carrying capacity than the unit's safety fuse so that they can still blow the fuse in the event of some electrical failure inside of the amp.  It works well to kill typical ground loops.  I've been doing this in all my amps.
Russ

Offline Namkung

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Headphone Thread.
« Reply #1120 on: Thu, 03 May 2012, 18:12:38 »
I used to hear some static noise when I had my DAC connected to my computer via USB.
was fixed by using optical out since that isolates the power from the computer or something =S though since you are using an onboard dac, i guess this isn't an option.

@rknize
I am not too sure about the maverick tubemagic but the nuforce icon hdp is a pretty good dac/amp combo too that you might want to consider!
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Offline Heisenberg

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Headphone Thread.
« Reply #1121 on: Thu, 03 May 2012, 20:27:29 »
ATH AD-700 are my all time favorites when it comes to value relative to performance.

Offline rknize

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« Reply #1122 on: Thu, 03 May 2012, 23:50:01 »
Quote from: Namkung;589462
I am not too sure about the maverick tubemagic but the nuforce icon hdp is a pretty good dac/amp combo too that you might want to consider!

The Icons are a little more than I want to spend.  Their uDACs seem quite reasonable, though.
Russ

Offline PixelVandalism

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« Reply #1123 on: Fri, 04 May 2012, 01:22:47 »
Do any of you have any recommendations for an amp, preferably with a DAC, for less than $200?
It's for my K240's, I'm probably going to use it as a pre-amp for some speakers as well.

Offline Ragnorock

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« Reply #1124 on: Fri, 04 May 2012, 02:30:32 »
You can get away with a FIIO with those cans, they're good amps that are cheap and if you do something like the e7 and e9 you get an amp and dac under $200.

240s don't really need it though, aside from the extra volume, they're pretty efficient, like the 271s.

Offline LuvULongTime

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Headphone Thread.
« Reply #1125 on: Fri, 04 May 2012, 02:32:09 »
Quote from: Namkung;584163
saving for hd800 + WA2 +_+


I love the combo, it gets used almost everyday.  I use an O2 desktop at my comp but when I want to relax for a while I head to the Woo.  

[ Attachment Invalid Or Does Not Exist ] 49897[/ATTACH]


nice pics rknize

Offline PixelVandalism

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« Reply #1126 on: Fri, 04 May 2012, 03:11:21 »
Quote from: Ragnorock;589733
You can get away with a FIIO with those cans, they're good amps that are cheap and if you do something like the e7 and e9 you get an amp and dac under $200.

240s don't really need it though, aside from the extra volume, they're pretty efficient, like the 271s.

I don't really like FiiO amps, The E7's I've used seemed low quality (not sound wise)
nor did they sound as good as my dad's NAD amp, they felt like they were missing something compared to it.

Offline alaricljs

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« Reply #1127 on: Sun, 06 May 2012, 20:11:34 »
So um yeah... DIY desktop amp ~$180, suggestions?  I was looking at the pimeta v2 w/ 24v sigma 25 PSU, AD843JNs.

Hmmm?
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Offline tr4656

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« Reply #1128 on: Sun, 06 May 2012, 20:19:05 »
O2 amps could do as well.

Offline alaricljs

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« Reply #1129 on: Sun, 06 May 2012, 20:29:28 »
Already planning on doing an ODA when he finishes that up, so I'm looking for something else.  :)
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Offline Namkung

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Headphone Thread.
« Reply #1130 on: Sun, 06 May 2012, 20:32:32 »
Quote from: LuvULongTime;589735
I love the combo, it gets used almost everyday.  I use an O2 desktop at my comp but when I want to relax for a while I head to the Woo.  

(Attachment Link) 49897[/ATTACH]


nice pics rknize

damn. im so jealous T____T

edit:
what tubes are those? looks like tung-sol 5998s.. /drool
« Last Edit: Sun, 06 May 2012, 20:34:58 by Namkung »
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Offline mkawa

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« Reply #1131 on: Sun, 06 May 2012, 20:32:52 »
180 is a fair amount of scratch.. then again, a pimeta with opa627s in class A sounds pretty darn good..

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Offline PixelVandalism

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« Reply #1132 on: Sun, 06 May 2012, 20:42:09 »
I asked this question yesterday -_-
What do you think of the Audinst HUD-MX1, Tiny Tube DAC, and Yulong U100?
The Audinst is $172, the Yulong is $192, and I can't find anyone who sells the Tiny Tube.
The Yulong is only $192 until tomorrow.
« Last Edit: Sun, 06 May 2012, 21:17:38 by PixelVandalism »

Offline alaricljs

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« Reply #1133 on: Sun, 06 May 2012, 20:42:45 »
Hmmm, only $10 more for the opa627s vs the ad843s.  Either one fits in with the rest of the parts I've picked.  Aside from that, yes class A.  :)


As to the 180... could cut 15 and get a jameco linear regulated supply instead of building one.  Could go with something other than the blue velvet pot, and could go with a cheaper case instead of the hammond alu box.  Could get cheaper resistors, but that's only a couple bucks.

edit:  read more on opamps and I'm still sold on the ad843s.
« Last Edit: Sun, 06 May 2012, 21:06:25 by alaricljs »
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Offline mkawa

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« Reply #1134 on: Sun, 06 May 2012, 21:17:50 »
i have an elpac wall-wart that i like quite a bit. the blue velvet is really really nice. there's the smaller alps rk series that people seem to like now in portable amps. the blue velvet is really nice though, and unless the RK is comparable (and just smaller), probably worth it.

i think tubes are a waste of money and time, personally.

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Offline litster

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« Reply #1135 on: Sat, 12 May 2012, 16:23:18 »
Finished my cMoyBB build last week.  Glad I didn't post the pictures before the ghroll back.  I hope that was the last one.

[ Attachment Invalid Or Does Not Exist ] 50096[/ATTACH]
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I ordered double parts for almost everything by accident from Mouser.  I am going to order anther $15 worth of parts from JDSLabs to build another one.  This next one will be the rechargeable version.

After that, I might want to build a DAC.

Offline Ragnorock

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« Reply #1136 on: Sat, 12 May 2012, 17:19:18 »
Hooray for another rollback!

Offline rknize

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« Reply #1137 on: Sun, 13 May 2012, 00:15:48 »
The Headphone thread died.  Long live the headphone thread.

To review, I got a pair of Sennheiser HD 558 cans the other day.  The open/airy sound was weird at first, but I got over that.  It reminded me of an old pair of headphones that I had many years ago.  I think they were Koss or Awia.  They were open-back with thick, fluffy foam pads.  Awesome bass.  I also found the Audio-Technica MD-50s and they rock by comparison to the HD558.  I bent the headband a bit to make them more comfortable, but they still get hot.

After a day or so, I didn't like the HD 558s anymore.  They seemed kind of lifeless even though they are very detailed.  I put them in my drawer at work overnight with di.fm streaming to them at high volume.  That helped a bit.  Yesterday, I did the foam mod (to make them more like the HD 598) and it made a significant difference.  They actually have good bass extension now and are even more airy.  They go deeper than the MD-50s, though are not as bass heavy.  The detail makes them pretty good for playing games, too.

I attempted to order a Matrix Cube, but they were out of stock.  They offered to upgrade me to their Mini-i for free, so I went with that.  In the meantime, I'm using a Fiio E17.  Not bad, once you get the aluminum shavings out of the PCB.
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Offline litster

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« Reply #1138 on: Sun, 13 May 2012, 00:46:10 »
while researching for headphones, I found out that back in late 2010, HD650 sold for $299 briefly.  But it is now selling for $450 to $500.  another potential candidate is Denon AH-D5000 for $380 or so at http://www.electronics-expo.com/ with coupon code.

Offline mkawa

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« Reply #1139 on: Sun, 13 May 2012, 07:08:12 »
omg, hd650s are 500$ now? yah, i got mine in about ~2000 for 250. hard to beat them for classical

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Offline laffindude

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« Reply #1140 on: Sun, 13 May 2012, 07:51:39 »
http://www.innerfidelity.com/content/luscious-denon-ah-d2000-ah-d50000-and-ah-d7000
Before you buy a D5000, take a look at that then decide if it is worth it.

I personally like the HD600 more. I wouldn't call 650 veiled, but it is a bit less exciting sounding.

Offline mkawa

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« Reply #1141 on: Sun, 13 May 2012, 08:52:52 »
on second thought, i have hd600s. i believe hd650s launched at 350-ish, so prices still have gone up, but not as much as i thought. 300 for hd650s is quite a deal.

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Offline litster

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« Reply #1142 on: Sun, 13 May 2012, 11:46:47 »
Quote from: laffindude;591487
http://www.innerfidelity.com/content/luscious-denon-ah-d2000-ah-d50000-and-ah-d7000
Before you buy a D5000, take a look at that then decide if it is worth it.

I personally like the HD600 more. I wouldn't call 650 veiled, but it is a bit less exciting sounding.

Thanks for the link.  Will give it a read.

Quote from: mkawa;591537
on second thought, i have hd600s. i believe hd650s launched at 350-ish, so prices still have gone up, but not as much as i thought. 300 for hd650s is quite a deal.

mkawa, will take a look at HD600.  Another option would be SKG's K701, which is still around $280.  Maybe I should not go to far high end and get something in the $200-$300 range before I get spoiled.  :-)

Offline Ragnorock

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Headphone Thread.
« Reply #1143 on: Sun, 13 May 2012, 16:59:11 »
Quote from: rknize;591277
The Headphone thread died.  Long live the headphone thread.

To review, I got a pair of Sennheiser HD 558 cans the other day.  The open/airy sound was weird at first, but I got over that.  It reminded me of an old pair of headphones that I had many years ago.  I think they were Koss or Awia.  They were open-back with thick, fluffy foam pads.  Awesome bass.  I also found the Audio-Technica MD-50s and they rock by comparison to the HD558.  I bent the headband a bit to make them more comfortable, but they still get hot.

After a day or so, I didn't like the HD 558s anymore.  They seemed kind of lifeless even though they are very detailed.  I put them in my drawer at work overnight with di.fm streaming to them at high volume.  That helped a bit.  Yesterday, I did the foam mod (to make them more like the HD 598) and it made a significant difference.  They actually have good bass extension now and are even more airy.  They go deeper than the MD-50s, though are not as bass heavy.  The detail makes them pretty good for playing games, too.

I attempted to order a Matrix Cube, but they were out of stock.  They offered to upgrade me to their Mini-i for free, so I went with that.  In the meantime, I'm using a Fiio E17.  Not bad, once you get the aluminum shavings out of the PCB.
ROFL

Offline mkawa

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Headphone Thread.
« Reply #1144 on: Sun, 13 May 2012, 17:05:24 »
Quote from: litster;591635
Thanks for the link.  Will give it a read.



mkawa, will take a look at HD600.  Another option would be SKG's K701, which is still around $280.  Maybe I should not go to far high end and get something in the $200-$300 range before I get spoiled.  :-)
when i bought my hd600s there was no hd650 or hd800. if i were buying new phones today, i'd splurge on the 800s, not because i don't like the hd600s, but because i like them so much*, and by all reports the new models are the same sound but even more refined. ;)

*they've actually stopped my headphone purchasing for 10 years and counting

to all the brilliant friends who have left us, and all the students who climb on their shoulders.

Offline rknize

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Headphone Thread.
« Reply #1145 on: Mon, 14 May 2012, 00:17:43 »
Quote from: mkawa;591537
on second thought, i have hd600s. i believe hd650s launched at 350-ish, so prices still have gone up, but not as much as i thought. 300 for hd650s is quite a deal.


I may have spring for them at $300.  But $500?  No way.  Looks like the HD600 can be had for that.  Hmm.  I'll give these a bit more time.  I've spent enough already....

Quote from: Ragnorock
ROFL


Yeah, pretty sad.  Extruded aluminum housing+self-tapping screws=cranky PCB.
Russ

Offline martinyeah

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Headphone Thread.
« Reply #1146 on: Mon, 14 May 2012, 01:39:58 »
i m using logitech g930

Offline alaricljs

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Headphone Thread.
« Reply #1147 on: Mon, 14 May 2012, 16:03:52 »
Can I just say OMG... like holy crap... I have just plugged in my new DT770 pro 250omg cans. There is nothing quite so surreal as hearing subtle mix placement that you've never noticed before (w/ headphones, not comparing to my stereo).  There's bass drums in here that never existed before.  I'm having a hard time deciding what I should listen to next.  

All this through my cheap Plantronic headset adapter (USB DAC).

I can't wait to get my Pimeta built.
Filco w/ Imsto thick PBT
Ducky 1087XM PCB+Plate, w/ Matias "Quiet Click" spring-swapped w/ XM Greens

Offline laffindude

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Headphone Thread.
« Reply #1148 on: Mon, 14 May 2012, 17:47:43 »
You'll get more impactful and articulate bass with an amp. If bass is up your alley, then you picked the right cans.
Not sure if you like Jamiroquai, but I love the bass on Traveling without moving. Lenny is always a good listen too (let love rule is my favorite). These are my favorite when testing for bass texture.
/currently listening on my modded DT990pro.

Offline sth

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Headphone Thread.
« Reply #1149 on: Mon, 14 May 2012, 17:57:37 »
Quote from: alaricljs;592674
I'm having a hard time deciding what I should listen to next.

The Flaming Lips' Soft Bulletin 5.1 Demastered stereo mixdowns (PM me if you don't have access to sites that they're available on). Fuh. King. Uh. May. Zing. Also, Clouds Taste Metallic is good in a very different way.
The Most Serene Republic's Population is an incredible baroque pop-ish album that is beautifully put together.
Shellac's 1000 Hurts, pretty much anything recorded by Steve Albini will sound incredible as well. 1000 Hurts is a good example of how good the space between sounds can sound on good headphones.
Charles Mingus' Mingus Moves (Canon and Wee are my favorites)
« Last Edit: Mon, 14 May 2012, 18:00:55 by sth »
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