Author Topic: Under $100 mechanical keyboard for gaming and typing, possible? (Read 23073 times)

gr1m · « **Reply #180 on:** Tue, 13 July 2010, 15:28:08 »

There's a bunch of false marketing on the included pamphlet. It claims that only the Steelseries G keyboards are pro enough to contain an uber ultimate professional gamer anti-ghosting capability (also known as NKRO and available on many keyboards, lol).

microsoft windows · « **Reply #181 on:** Tue, 13 July 2010, 17:23:42 »

That Logitech looks so much like a piece of Chinese crap it ain't even funny.

gr1m · « **Reply #182 on:** Tue, 13 July 2010, 17:36:27 »

I know right. It feels like one too.

microsoft windows · « **Reply #183 on:** Tue, 13 July 2010, 17:37:48 »

I want to get one and run it over with a tractor.

kishy · « **Reply #184 on:** Tue, 13 July 2010, 17:46:06 »

There's one definitely kick-ass feature of the Logitech gaming boards...macros.

Erm, they are hardware macros, right?

microsoft windows · « **Reply #185 on:** Tue, 13 July 2010, 17:54:57 »

There are plenty of good keyboards that do macros. Like a Gateway2000 Anykey. But NOT the Logi****!

gr1m · « **Reply #186 on:** Thu, 15 July 2010, 18:44:45 »

The keyboard is feeling better and better. I like linear a lot now so I think if the question boils down to tactile bump vs. linear switches, I'll give linear the edge. I still haven't bothered to learn how to touch type properly.

muchadoaboutnothing · « **Reply #187 on:** Thu, 15 July 2010, 19:03:22 »

Quote from: gr1m;203142

I'll give linear the edge. I still haven't bothered to learn how to touch type properly.

Learn to touch type, and I'm sure you'll change your mind.

gr1m · « **Reply #188 on:** Thu, 15 July 2010, 19:05:37 »

Do you make these yourself? If I owned a business, I would hire you as the Trollface Guy.

*edit
Do you mean that when touch typing, tactile feels better than linear?

muchadoaboutnothing · « **Reply #189 on:** Thu, 15 July 2010, 19:11:28 »

Quote from: gr1m;203145

Do you make these yourself? If I owned a business, I would hire you as the Trollface Guy.

Heh, I just keep them around.

Quote from: gr1m;203145

*edit
Do you mean that when touch typing, tactile feels better than linear?

In my opinion, yes. The tactile feedback is going to help you not bottom out at higher speeds and will make typing for long periods more comfortable.

ricercar · « **Reply #190 on:** Thu, 15 July 2010, 20:46:52 »

Quote from: gr1m;202260

I got 33 keys on the N-key test until I ran out of ideas on how to hit more keys

NKRO is not about hitting the most keys. It's about the fewest keys that can never get blocked by others ( I got this wrong before, too).

Can you press the following?

press Q pause (don't let go)
press W pause (don't let go)
press A pause (don't let go)
press S pause (don't let go)
press Z pause (don't let go)
press X pause (don't let go)

and have all six letter appear on the test?

gr1m · « **Reply #191 on:** Thu, 15 July 2010, 22:16:44 »

Yes, it just worked. "qwaszx" with 6 keys accepted.

Phaedrus2129 · « **Reply #192 on:** Thu, 15 July 2010, 22:39:08 »

NKRO test. Mash your keyboard with your open palm. If output looks like this:

8.09u;ip-7j[o/,klh'6nymb5=tvr4gcefdxs

it's NKRO.

If it looks like

oh,u[

It isn't.

gr1m · « **Reply #193 on:** Fri, 16 July 2010, 11:44:57 »

Sometimes the numlock LED stays on even when my computer is turned off. Wut. Is this a PS2 thing?

kishy · « **Reply #194 on:** Fri, 16 July 2010, 11:55:44 »

Yes, some motherboards provide PS/2 (and for some USB) power even when off (but they must first be running, then shut down - simply connecting a power cord to it without first powering on usually won't do it).

PS/2 optical mice will, with motherboards that do this, remain lit up as well.

gr1m · « **Reply #195 on:** Fri, 16 July 2010, 22:01:13 »

The font on my left ctrl key is kinda darker and duller than the rest. Not as crisply white. Minor gripe but I wonder why I only noticed it today.

gr1m · « **Reply #196 on:** Fri, 16 July 2010, 22:04:54 »

Never mind, I think it's dirt going into the laser etching.

aegrotatio · « **Reply #197 on:** Sat, 17 July 2010, 02:02:14 »

The PS/2 illuminated LED thing when ATX computers are turned off were an early oddity. I have a couple of well-loved IBM keyboards (not Model M) whose LEDs would light up on powered-of computers with ATX power supplies back in the early days. These same keyboards were the only ones that allowed my AMD Socket A computers to boot properly, too, so it might have been an odd idiosyncrasy of the Socket A platform back then.

gr1m · « **Reply #198 on:** Sat, 17 July 2010, 13:03:26 »

One of the switches on my keyboard is weird. The "-" key on the numpad only responds to direct hits. I can hit it with an upwards, left and right angle but when I hit it with a downwards angle, the switch "snags" and sticks. I had dropped a sesame seed into my numpad and pried the keys out using a pocket knife (applying light pressure and rotating around the keycap) to remove it. I thought maybe I damaged the keycaps or something but the rest of the numpad seem fine and the individual switch for the "-" key exhibits the same behavior without the keycap.

Odd.

ch_123 · « **Reply #199 on:** Sat, 17 July 2010, 13:42:47 »

Quote from: Phaedrus2129;203206

NKRO test. Mash your keyboard with your open palm. If output looks like this:

8.09u;ip-7j[o/,klh'6nymb5=tvr4gcefdxs

it's NKRO.

If it looks like

oh,u[

It isn't.

Make sure you hold down the two shifts at the same time.

gr1m · « **Reply #200 on:** Sat, 17 July 2010, 21:41:47 »

Some guy helped me out on vent, said that to clean the dirt out of the laser etching, I get a Q-tip and toothpick with some rubbing alcohol. I'll try that.

He also said to apply a tiny bit of WD40 to the sticking switch, but not too much to avoid ruining it. Any ideas on how to fix a sticking Cherry Black switch?

gr1m · « **Reply #201 on:** Sun, 18 July 2010, 00:17:53 »

So I'm not going to mess with the switch but I'm not happy. If one switch ****ed up, are the others as fragile? It's not a key I use often (or in fact, ever use) so I don't think it's worth the trouble to RMA it.

Still. Did I break the switch? Did the keyboard arrive like this and I only just noticed? It's like when hit even slightly downwards, the switch snags onto the inner wall.

gr1m · « **Reply #202 on:** Sun, 18 July 2010, 11:58:45 »

I'm RMAing the keyboard. So much for "18 billion keypresses" when the switch is ****ed right out of the box. Let's hope the second one works fine.

muchadoaboutnothing · « **Reply #203 on:** Sun, 18 July 2010, 18:22:27 »

gr1m · « **Reply #204 on:** Sun, 18 July 2010, 18:37:17 »

Probably. But then imagine a broken switch on a keyboard I had payed $80 shipping/customs for.

muchadoaboutnothing · « **Reply #205 on:** Sun, 18 July 2010, 18:57:41 »

Quote from: gr1m;203966

Probably. But then imagine a broken switch on a keyboard I had payed $80 shipping/customs for.

Elitekeyboards packs their keyboards well, and if I remember correctly, tests each switch before sending it out (at least with the blues, because the click leaf makes them more issue prone).

I could be wrong, but I believe majestouch mentioned this at some point on GH.

gr1m · « **Reply #206 on:** Sun, 18 July 2010, 19:04:54 »

Hm. Well, I guess that's the advantage of buying from an exclusive keyboard store.

**** **** **** **** ****. My ideal fix to this situation would have been fixing the switch myself but I'm 90% sure I'd have ruined the keyboard (and as far as I know, Steelseries 7Gs are hard to open up and 6Gv2s are probably no different). So I guess I'll have to RMA it. Since it's a key I do not use often, I can potentially let it be but if I pay $107 hard earned dollars for a product, it better not be broken.

muchadoaboutnothing · « **Reply #207 on:** Mon, 19 July 2010, 09:09:06 »

Quote from: gr1m;203972

Hm. Well, I guess that's the advantage of buying from an exclusive keyboard store.

Definitely.

Sorry that I'm trolling you nonstop, but with the trollface in your avatar, I feel compelled to.

Quote from: gr1m;203972

**** **** **** **** ****. My ideal fix to this situation would have been fixing the switch myself but I'm 90% sure I'd have ruined the keyboard (and as far as I know, Steelseries 7Gs are hard to open up and 6Gv2s are probably no different).

Some of us were not meant to tinker with hardware. I am one of those people. You're making the right choice if in doubt.

Quote from: gr1m;203972

So I guess I'll have to RMA it. Since it's a key I do not use often, I can potentially let it be but if I pay $107 hard earned dollars for a product, it better not be broken.

Where did you buy it from? Do they cover return shipping on defective items, like Newegg?

gr1m · « **Reply #208 on:** Mon, 19 July 2010, 12:26:27 »

I think they do. NCIX, it's like the Canadian Newegg (Newegg Canada isn't as good as Newegg US). They just accepted the RMA with an e-mail confirmation and they provided a shipping label via PDF but I still doubt they cover costs. Or maybe if I call Purolator like the e-mail says they'll know what to do when I tell them it's an NCIX RMA.

gr1m · « **Reply #209 on:** Mon, 19 July 2010, 13:00:05 »

If in doubt pester tech support. So I plugged my G15 back in after packaging up my new mechanical for RMA and I'm such a sad bunny. I never noticed until after using a linear switch that rubber domes have tactile feedback (well, maybe not as good as blues or browns so don't sue me but I do feel a bump when I type on them). As soon as I realised that, I also realised I miss my Cherry blacks.

Yeah, I hate this thing.

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Author Topic: Under $100 mechanical keyboard for gaming and typing, possible? (Read 23073 times)