Author Topic: MsErgo4k+CherryBn+TenKeyLess+G15+FootSwith+Abs plastic fab+TEkeyStaggering  (Read 44385 times)

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Offline Lanx

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MsErgo4k+CherryBn+TenKeyLess+G15+FootSwith+Abs plastic fab+TEkeyStaggering
« Reply #30 on: Thu, 18 November 2010, 12:37:51 »
i'm going for more of a "pimp" look this time so i want the board to look good i guess, so i want to keep the backspace, a backspace i guess my only real course is to mod out the insert key.

Offline Lanx

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« Reply #31 on: Thu, 18 November 2010, 23:43:00 »
i mthink i'll just move the += sign down near where Lctrl would be, this way i don't need to do super wierd cutting and its not like i touch type += anyway.

Offline msiegel

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MsErgo4k+CherryBn+TenKeyLess+G15+FootSwith+Abs plastic fab+TEkeyStaggering
« Reply #32 on: Fri, 19 November 2010, 00:13:19 »
go Lanx!

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Model F Mod Log * Open Source Generic keyboard controller

Offline Lanx

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« Reply #33 on: Fri, 19 November 2010, 04:49:48 »
i meant the rctrl, i kinda have to do this too cuz currently i'll have no pcb space for the stabilizers either. uh this flu making me not think right.

Offline Lanx

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« Reply #34 on: Fri, 19 November 2010, 11:39:01 »
i fashioned my middled section divider.


this is it installed and fitted on.


it looks better when i flip it over.
this one has 2 switches, my v1 had 1 switch, and it was ALOT easier, cuz i just had 1 vertical keycap and i could just screw it in, actually that mod took like 5mins. While this current mod took a while to figure out.


if you notice i actually dremeled out a slot to fit it on one end and then through the hole on the other, and the compression keeps everything together.
this is with the keycaps on, i won't use these particular caps, but the size is just right.

Offline Lanx

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« Reply #35 on: Tue, 23 November 2010, 08:36:44 »
went browsing at michaels (the arts and crafts store) and found nothing that could basically saran wrap over the boards, i have desoldered everything in anticipation for this but haven't found anything useful. I think i'll just end up spray painting the pcb boards black.

Offline lloyd

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« Reply #36 on: Tue, 23 November 2010, 15:53:14 »
Oh my. This mod is crazy, ridiculous, and completely awesome. Splendid work so far, sir.

Offline keyboardlover

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« Reply #37 on: Tue, 23 November 2010, 15:58:30 »
Agreed. Sexy mod Lanx!

Offline CodeChef

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« Reply #38 on: Sat, 27 November 2010, 00:52:29 »
I. DEMAND. MOAR!

This is incredible, I CAN'T WAIT to see this thing all done!
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Offline Lanx

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« Reply #39 on: Sat, 27 November 2010, 07:23:09 »
so financee went to get a black friday haircut at the salon cuz it's 50% off, i decided to do some shopping at the local kmart


i'm so colorblind that when i bought it home my financee said, you know that's green right? (i thought it was flat black)
but it kinda works so whatever!
here's all the pcbs stripped and sanded


here's it sprayed
says it drys in 15, 1day for full set in.
smells like my old testors paint from when i was barely a teen. I'm not gonna lie i spray a few extra times just to remember the smell!


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i gave the pcbs a second coat and sprayed the edges more too later on.


found this different dremel bit, i think it might be nice to try, to see if i can now route out the abs plastic instead of using the biggest drill bit and hoping it catches the plastic instead.


i'm gonna let the pcbs dry for a few days and set in all nice like. Until then i still have to trace the G15 controller, want pics of all that too? tracing is fun to do.

Offline Lanx

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« Reply #40 on: Sat, 27 November 2010, 11:40:31 »
here's the assembled stuff on my carpet.
all those wierd little angles are kinda on purpose, to fit with bent/angled board and curved surface.


look like i'll have to unsolded the f1-f12 and others to match, no biggie.

Offline Lanx

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« Reply #41 on: Sun, 28 November 2010, 08:34:12 »
think i'll remake the spacebar pcb to extended it half an inch outwards both ways, this is just for vanity, it'll cover up a bit of the underside molding. other than that i got the f1-12 keys all repainted, working on the g15 controller now. Came upon a weird issue my hakko soldering iron can't seem to melt the solder if i go
solder->wires->hakko.

i must be doing something wrong, i have the heat from 700-800 sometimes, still no go.

Online hoggy

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MsErgo4k+CherryBn+TenKeyLess+G15+FootSwith+Abs plastic fab+TEkeyStaggering
« Reply #42 on: Sun, 28 November 2010, 08:57:23 »
It might be that the element in the iron is on it's way out, this would cause it's temperature to fluctuate.
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Offline JBert

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« Reply #43 on: Sun, 28 November 2010, 08:57:43 »
Wires need some time to heat up depending on their thickness. I've soldered some 1.5mm wires once, but those take quite some warming up even with a 50W soldering station.

Best is to leave the temperature at its default setting so you don't unnecessarily burn the flux in your solder, just wait a little longer for the wire to heat up before applying solder.

Obviously, this won't work if you are soldering short wires with sensitive components on the other side.
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Offline Lanx

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« Reply #44 on: Sun, 28 November 2010, 09:15:39 »
Quote from: hoggy;253316
It might be that the element in the iron is on it's way out, this would cause it's temperature to fluctuate.


i don't think it could be the element, i mean i just bought it like a month ago, new, but it could be the case, i'm no expert, how would i test this?
Quote from: JBert;253317
Wires need some time to heat up depending on their thickness. I've soldered some 1.5mm wires once, but those take quite some warming up even with a 50W soldering station.

Best is to leave the temperature at its default setting so you don't unnecessarily burn the flux in your solder, just wait a little longer for the wire to heat up before applying solder.

Obviously, this won't work if you are soldering short wires with sensitive components on the other side.


i doing thin wires 24 gauge i think, and i can't get them to heat up cut to like 2in length, i'll try again soon, setting up my "work area now"

first pic is the g15 pcb disected, this is what ppl pay 80bucks for (i know special sales blah blah, we'll just say 80), it's incredibly a small pcb. A bit too lengthy for my tastes but i can work with it.


here is the underside of the pcb and why i like logitech keyboards to mod with, pins! (ok this is admittedly my second logitech keyboard i've opened up, but every other keyboard uses those wierd plastic coated things that i can't solder to!)


here we got the whole mess of wires layout, just reference from the first pic and see where all the wires go. The led wires wrap around the entire keyboard btw, so that's how they provide the bright backlight.

Offline JBert

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« Reply #45 on: Sun, 28 November 2010, 15:40:20 »
Quote from: Lanx;253320
i doing thin wires 24 gauge i think, and i can't get them to heat up cut to like 2in length, i'll try again soon, setting up my "work area now"
Those should heat up in no time, even if you have just a 30W soldering iron to work with (check the soldering station, it should be on there).

It also helps to "tin" the wires before soldering them to something else. Put a tiny amount of solder on your solder tip to improves thermal conduction between the wire and the solder tip. Hold it to the wire, then touch the wire with the solder so that it flows in and wets it. Just don't add too much: you'll either have a blob of solder sitting on the end, or the solder might flow into the sheathing and start to melt it, revealing the bare wire.
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Offline Lanx

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« Reply #46 on: Sun, 28 November 2010, 15:50:38 »
that's the issue i'm running into. I had no problems doing all my soldering with a basic radioshack 30w. Then i upgraded to a hakko 536 and it was great for desoldering the cherries but can't do jack for soldering, i'll be plugging in both of these irons to see what's up.

Offline Lanx

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« Reply #47 on: Mon, 29 November 2010, 07:05:49 »
abs burning in the morning.
there's the easy tenkeyless i kept a lot of the shroud plastic this time around, next pic.


the sideview with the shroud plastic still attached, covers up quite a bit of nasty.


the bottom section attached, yellow circle is the shroud still there. The blue is where i'll fill in the empty space, and i left a lot of abs around so i can hand sand it down. I'll prolly do a flat edge rather than a beveled edge, have sandpaper from 60/100/150 grit.


no different than my v1 really, just wanted to let ppl see the "skeleton" of it all. you see where i have the nail polish circling everything that's gonna be dremel'd out. all that space is reserved for the wires/circuitry/controller (i could put the controller where the wrist rest would be, but i'd be destroying wristrest/keyboard stability which is what i encountered with my v1.


hmmm looks like a smileyface.

Offline Lanx

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« Reply #48 on: Mon, 29 November 2010, 11:56:23 »
here's my radioshack vs. hakko solder iron... so scary


drilling holes to mount the pcb to abs plastic


here's the screws sticking out topside view
yea don't worry i'll probably trim a few mm off the screws and they're already spraypainted green.


all the screw placements to keep the pcb on lockdown and not wiggle. i wasn't so concerned with the outter edge so i only get it one screw, the main 5x4 cluster definently needed 2 screws.

i'll have to redo the tilde since putting in the screws it's missaligned so i'll have to reepoxy it/sand/paint and drill holes for it.


dremeling out the insides


some more close up

Offline Lanx

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« Reply #49 on: Mon, 29 November 2010, 13:21:14 »
unrelated but a project i want to do later

think i'll use "claw grip"

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MsErgo4k+CherryBn+TenKeyLess+G15+FootSwith+Abs plastic fab+TEkeyStaggering
« Reply #50 on: Mon, 29 November 2010, 18:22:35 »
Where is "DEL" ?

Offline Lanx

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« Reply #51 on: Mon, 29 November 2010, 19:23:22 »
it's there, scroll back one page and see the 2x3 area.
@edit@
oh i get it, *sigh* late nites.

Offline Lanx

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« Reply #52 on: Tue, 30 November 2010, 12:54:41 »
basically done with left side modding, i'll have to throw in a quick fit for the f1-f4 and esc (and a fillin key next to f1 prolly blue cherry, idk why.


tired of abs smell, gonna try my hand at soldering now.
couldn't get the damn hakko to work w/ 24 gauge wire idk why, someone smarter than me with soldering plz tell me.
decided to try solding 30gauge to the pins here's a pic for reference
right side are womens hair teezers (i know they are horribly mangled i've used them for picking out the solder that was sucked into the solder sucker and i had to realign the points with a plier, they are strictly my tools no, they don't touch hair lol)
left side is pencil sharped to razer thin.

basically i "wrap" the 30gauge wire around the pin and drop some solder on top of it. It seems to work and the bond is strong.

Offline Lane Dean

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« Reply #53 on: Tue, 30 November 2010, 12:54:41 »
This is one of the coolest mods I've ever seen (and I've been in the case mod community for 10 years).
So many possibilities...

Offline Lanx

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« Reply #54 on: Wed, 01 December 2010, 14:33:15 »
41 pins soldered...
the issue isn't the soldering, it's the close vicinity of the pcb and all those electronically stuff and everything is so tiny, each connection is strong though so i'm not worried.


the purpose of soldering wires to the pins is so that i can connect them to this euro style connection thing, and then connect the wires from the keyswitch to there. If anyone has any other suggestions as to how to do this or how to organize the wiring i'm all ears. (soldering to another breadboard? idk how that'd work unless someone could give me a quick link and picture).


this is all so that i could trace the keys from the controller. I was able to trace one membrane successfully, but the other just made me loose my mind (following those thin lines, they slowly begin to merge and you have to start all over again). So i have one computer with the aqua key test, the reason i use a laptop and not my main computer is that i found out is that the media functions will activate no matter what, so it could fast shut down or sleep your computer, can't have that happening on my work/home pc, but on my kitchen laptop it's no problem.
The other netbook just has googledocs running, cuz well it's a netbook and googledocs is the spreadsheet it can handle best, plus it's easier for me to type it out rather than writing it on a piece of paper cuz then i might not be able to read my own handwriting. plus i can always print a lot of copies too.

Offline nanu

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« Reply #55 on: Wed, 01 December 2010, 19:12:45 »
Quote from: Lanx;253904
unrelated but a project i want to do later
Show Image

think i'll use "claw grip"


Nice! I've wanted to do this but instantly gave up by not wanting to do away with the bulky scroll wheel.

Offline Lanx

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« Reply #56 on: Sat, 11 December 2010, 14:27:26 »
6bucks for a hot glue gun how cool is that? so i'll use this to hot glue the wires down on my pcb board initial layer (i'll show an image about what i mean) then i'll hot glue down the final layer. note i'll only do this for the 2(5x4) clusters meaning all the alpha keys (basically the home section) everything else (caps/shift) will be wired seperately incase i feel like changing the layout again (i haven't finalized it yet, thanks to the main forum and talks about keyboard layout you guys are making me wonder!)


i found this case i think for fishing line, it's good to sorta organize or spool out the wire you'll be soldering soon, showing it in case ppl want organization options. Note it says sample on the front, cuz i tool it from my fiancee who didn't need it anymore who bought it initially to hold make up samples. (don't ask i made a whole organized wall for her that is the envy of any girl that comes in and sees it)


This is always the issue i'm having... TOO MUCH. i keep thinking of too much stuff i can "cram" in or make my final mod... I'm resolved to the fact that I might have to suck it up and make a v3, but i don't think ppl would like that, heck i wouldn't like that either! but i can't help it...
so far 2 things i'm on the fence about.
1. buying a teensy and learning wth a teensy is and learning i'd have to program it to make a numpad for jkl789nm, area.
2. cut up a controller and in place of where the space bar is gonna be i'll have a 4 way switch. Basically i'll mimic a nostromo, the nostromo if you think about it makes full use of your fingers AND your thumbs. Think about it, your thumb is regulated to a spacebar at best. If i slap on 2, 4 way switches on there it could end up being my modifiers, i was thinking about the 4 just be a basic modifier section, consisting of
space
ctrl
shift
alt

i'd love to find a way to "fit it in" somehow, i'll play around with this option too.


notice it's a ps1 controller i'm gonna hack off, yes one of the first controllers, not even a dual shock. (i think a basic nes controller might work better with less plastic idk, i'll experiment, first i gotta find one on ebay gave my nes to my nephews long ago)

Offline Lanx

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« Reply #57 on: Sat, 11 December 2010, 14:42:22 »
actually a quick browse through the controller section of ebay i notice they sell parts and the analogue stick looks perfect for this (i originally wanted a 4 pad but it seems too impossible to fit in) but the analogue might work better


yes you can thank my bunny 8 years ago for making me wonder why i kept on dying somethings, cuz he was eating my controller wire. And yes i'm a pack rat i kept a broken wire chewed ps2 controller for 8 years... thinking i'll learn to solder some day (which i did!)



the stick is actually 5 switches if most remember, up/down/left/right and press in (just like the scroll wheel that goes up and down and presses in).
gonna desolder this and see where i can fit it!

Offline Lanx

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« Reply #58 on: Sun, 12 December 2010, 14:15:08 »
time to start wiring up, here's the work station


i'm prepping the underside to tin the pins and basically use it to hold the keys in place.


i can't create nice "volcanos" with the tinning i guess it's cuz the holes i drilled don't have the ring of tin to create volvanos so i'm stuck with blobs.


all wired up, now to figure out how to use a glue gun and if i should bead or make thin lines? advice?


if you look at my spreadsheet and pin layout this is how i believe companies are doing "gaming optimized" nkro, they are basically just giving WASD it's own pins (they'll be some correlating pins like a will be grouped with like p, cuz it's so far away).

Offline taswyn

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MsErgo4k+CherryBn+TenKeyLess+G15+FootSwith+Abs plastic fab+TEkeyStaggering
« Reply #59 on: Sun, 12 December 2010, 20:25:16 »
That's a staggering amount of work you've put into that D: It looks amazing

*glances in the direction of her two dead MS 4000s, then down at her G80-8963*

If only I wasn't sure that any attempt I made at something similar wouldn't be doomed to horrible failure >.>; That and it really is pretty daunting D:

You do realize, though, that the ultimate version of this mod would be to order some odd colored LEDs and get some doubleshots that worked for backlighting XD Well, maybe not quite ultimate, since that would need laserz and the ability to fly /nod. But it would be quite neat.

Maybe in v3? =P

Do you think it would be possible to re-use the 4000's keycaps (probably would require cutting up some MX keycaps for the stem attachment and epoxying to 4000 caps)?