Ergo-Clear switch mod *tutorial*

[WhiteFireDragon]

Intro for newbs: the term "ergo clear" switch refers to a switch that is a combination of a clear stem and a spring from either a red, blue, or brown switch. A normal clear switch is generally too heavy, so a spring from a red/blue/brown switch will make it feel lighter and also bring out the tactile bump more. They still feel different than a blue or brown switch though.

I installed these ergo clear switches for someone, and he requested that I also do a video of the process, so here it is. It's a rather long video, so use the index to skip sections that you already know.

 INDEX:
 

• equipment overview: 0:22
• removing stabilizers: 03:48
• case disassembly: 04:42
• removing USB cable: 07:28
• controller removal: 09:59
• picking desoldering points: 10:33
• desoldering with iron: 17:44
• desoldering with wick: 28:31
• switch removal: 30:55
• swapping stems and springs: 33:05
• switch installation: 37:27
• soldering equipment: 44:39
• tinning iron tip: 47:06
• soldering process: 50:08
• cable/controller reinstallation: 01:07:21
• testing switches: 01:09:30
• reassembly: 01:10:18
• ergo clear feel: 01:12:58

The soldering/desoldering steps is really not that hard, but if you still don't think you can do it or have the equipment, feel free to PM me to do it. There are a few other members on here that can do it for you.

[cgbuen]

Very cool! I've been wanting to learn how to do this for a QFR, and it's cool to have a resource I'd be able to refer to. Thanks for putting this together!

[TheProfosist]

Yep I can do it for people if they dont want to do it great video though!

[Cindori]

Cant you do it like this?

[WhiteFireDragon]

I can't even tell if those are PCB mounted or plate mounted because of the video quality. But if it's plate mounted like most keyboards, then no, you can't do that. You can force-pry it out of the plate, but then you risk ripping off the pins that are attached to the PCB, or damage part of the top switch housing. If the switch gets ripped out, then you'll have to get equipment to desolder/solder anyways. Worst case scenario, you'll rip out copper traces from the PCB and your keyboard will be useless. I wouldn't take shortcuts like this.

[alaricljs]

That's a PCB mount board.  WFD's is normal plate mount so you have to desolder.  When Phantom-style plates become mainstream things will be much different.

[wiredPANDA]

Thanks for posting the walk through.

/tag

[laffindude]

You don't always have to add solder to the joint and desolder again when you have a bridge preventing the switches from coming out. You can take a wooden dowel and lightly rock the pin to see if you can break the bridge that way.

[WhiteFireDragon]

No no no, you really should add solder again and desolder it. I made this mistake when I was modding my first keyboard where there was still some solder left in the hole, and I still pulled out the switch. The attached solder ripped out half of the copper traces on the PCB, but luckily there was just enough copper left for the switch to still work. If the switch pins are not loose yet after desoldering, then it's too hard to melt the rest of the solder in the hole unless you have a hot air rework station. Easiest solution is to just add solder back into the hole so you can evenly reheat the whole thing.

Maybe it just my OCD, but when it comes to keyboards, I don't cut corners. If you pry off a switch from the plate without desoldering or even take it off without fully desoldering, you run the risk of permanent damage to the switch and/or PCB. Even ONE non-working key really ruins the whole keyboard.

[alaricljs]

I believe he's referring to the condition you get when a pin corner/edge is against the thru-hole and even tho you have successfully sucked all the solder there's still just enough there to hold the pin since there is physical contact between the 2 parts.  If you take a stick and from the bottom side of the PCB push sideways against the pin it can break free and you hear a slight snapping noise.

Only do this if you can look in the hole and swear that you got it all.

[Alessandro]

Awesome guide, going to be really useful when I do my Pokers!

[ksm123]

I've ordered ErgoDox on MassDrop with MX Clears, and I'm considering building it with Ergo-Clears.

1. Where do you get 55g or 62g springs these days? (I'm from EU).
2. Do ergo-clears benefit from lubing?

[VesperSAINT]

I'm pretty sure most people consider lubing essential for Ergo-clears. Supposedly, they can stick because of the large tactile bump and weaker spring but more than that, I believe lubing makes the feel of the switch so much better and smooth. Without the lube, Ergo-clear does feel somewhat gritty because of the strong friction.

[Larken]

I believe ergoclears benefit from lubing the most out of all the switches, due to its tendency to get 'stuck' on the upstroke. Reds, browns, blacks all benefit too, but it's not as needed as compared to ergoclears.

The springs supply is a little iffy right now - but I think mistakemistake (mimic cables) mentioned he was going to get some stock in the future. Not sure how far off is that. Otherwise, you'd either need to try and find it in the classifieds, or take a chance with sherryton (originative), who has the springs, but seems to be under fire from multiple directions as of late w/ regards to delivery issues.

as of now, unless you have a contact in korea, there seems to be no guaranteed way of getting the springs.