Hey everyone! So it was awhile ago I posted a picture of a poker in a Lego case. Well, more of a tray, like a normal poker case. So here is the thread finally, to explain some details about it, and hopefully answer any questions!
So it all began with some talk with a friend, and I decided to take some measurements. For some reason I threw all this out, but it's not too important at this point. Looking online I found measurements of the thin 1x4 Lego blocks, and just did some calculations to see how many I would need.
I never took a step-by-step picture guide, but it's pretty simple.
First, I'll start with the order list.
The main components are the thin 1x4 plates.
The other main component were 6 6x12 plates.
To make sure everything fit without any odd ends, added some 1x2 plates as well, and 1x1 was used near the opening for the USB.
The plate tiles, which are flat on top, were just to make the top of the case smooth.
The normal 1x4 bricks were used inside for support under the PCB.
The corners were made with the 1x1 circle plates.
I had a plan with the technic bricks and connector pegs to have the pcb connected to the case, but didn't feel like glueing lego to my pcb.
My list does have extras, but it never hurts to have too much versus too little. This is what you need for a case:
240 1x4 plates
25 1x4 flat tiles
20 1x1 plates(20 more if you want to use these in the corners instead of round plates)
20 1x1 flat tiles
6 6x12 plates
20-40 1x1 round plates(optional, can use 1x1 plates instead)
10 1x4 bricks(if you would rather the case on an angle instead of the pcb, double the order of these)
And it doesn't hurt to get at least 10 of some 1x2 bricks and 2x2 bricks.
My list in the picture has more items due to me getting random things, and instead of a solid colour, I did the red/blue theme.
Now onto some horrible photos!
Version 1!Rectangle case, random pieces of normal lego height for support. Case was ever so slightly too small from from to back, but two folded pieces of paper held it in place perfect.
As you can see in the last one, I added the extra two rows on the back to angle the case, more could be used to tilt it more.
USB hole, not centred, but works fine.
Support bricks. Spaced in a way to avoid hitting the DIP switch or anything inside. Used the random bricks I had because I had no more 1x4, which I would recommend getting more.
Speaking of dip switch, didn't bother making a hole in the bottom for it, since you can just pop the pcb out to change it.
Just showing what I used in the corners, little pillars!
Bottom of the case. I made a layer on the bottom of the case to strengthen the connections of the above plates, and overall sturdiness. Also, the big plates need one ring of 1x4 plates on the outside for the correct poker size. So I connected them together underneath to keep the top flat.
And on Version 2 I had spare 1x4 plates, so I added more on the green parts of the bottom.
Version 2!I didn't get many pictures of this one, but I think I prefer it much more, makes the front end much lower.
First, I changed the pcb support to 3 rows of lowering heights.
Had to change the USB hole to one plate higher.
I tapered the sides into 3 layers to make it more even with the pcb.
And for fun, I used two 1x2 flat keyboard tiles. Keyboard on a keyboard.
I guess last but not least, a quick note on the build method.
1-Line up the 6 big plates
2-Connect them underneath with either 1x2 or 1x4 plates
3-Make a ring around the plates with one row of 1x4 plates
4-Connect those to the big plates on the bottom
5-Add 1x4 plates and 1x2 plates around the perimeter in your desired fashion!
6-Don't forget to leave a hole for the USB plug at the back!
Depending on how you want to alternate the blocks, you can do almost anything. If you really wanted, you can just get even longer plates to save the hassle of having lots of little ones.
The actual measurement in lego bumps or 1x pieces for the entire case. 14 wide by 38 wide!Hope this is somewhat useful for anyone wanting to build their own case! Would be nice to see what other people could design, heck a TKL would be pretty sweet! Even one with a top to sandwich the pcb into place.
Any comments or questions, post away! If need be, I can take more photos, hopefully better ones!
Cheers,
Halverson!
PS-Taking apart 1x4 plates from each other is all sorts of frustrating!
Oh, and if anyone wants to know...that is original dolch with a moogle kit, and the switches are dirty blacks, black springs with brown switches....kind of comparable to browns vs reds, in that they feel almost the same, but that little bump in there.
