Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)

[heedpantsnow]

Can sby tell me what the bug is in GH60 Rev. B?  I've searched but there's hundreds of non-specific references to it so it's a needle in a haystack. 

[CPTBadAss]

Can sby tell me what the bug is in GH60 Rev. B?  I've searched but there's hundreds of non-specific references to it so it's a needle in a haystack. 

See the quote below (from the GH60 prototyping thread):

Hi komar, My friend wired the leds himself, but he found the blacklight dose not work and he also found the lcol14 connected with the GPIO2  in your PCB design. so he can't simply wired the leds, he cut the connection, the blacklight works fine..  is it a bug or meaning other things?

Unfortunately, this is an error:(
It will be fixed in the final revision. For rev. B, either Fn led will work or the last column of backlight:/
Cutting is not necessary with correct handling in the firmware.

[heedpantsnow]

@CPTBadAss, thank you.

I had actually seen that post but I don't really understand it.  Does he mean the backlighting doesn't work for some part of backlighting the whole board, or is it the backlighting for WASD or bottom arrow keys??

[CPTBadAss]

Can sby tell me what the bug is in GH60 Rev. B?  I've searched but there's hundreds of non-specific references to it so it's a needle in a haystack. 

See the quote below (from the GH60 prototyping thread):

Hi komar, My friend wired the leds himself, but he found the blacklight dose not work and he also found the lcol14 connected with the GPIO2  in your PCB design. so he can't simply wired the leds, he cut the connection, the blacklight works fine..  is it a bug or meaning other things?

Unfortunately, this is an error:(
It will be fixed in the final revision. For rev. B, either Fn led will work or the last column of backlight:/
Cutting is not necessary with correct handling in the firmware.

I had actually seen that post but I don't really understand it.

Looks like when the person handwired the LEDs, they discovered an error on the PCB between the lcol14 and PIO2 trace locations. They shouldn't have been linked together. That's the error on the PCB. At the moment, there's no built in backlighting. You'll have to wire it up yourself or wait for the LED add-on module.

[Lastpilot]

@spamray: I can't notice any noise coming from my shine 2, leds on or off. :O Then again maybe I am a little deaf from going to concerts and riding motorcycles in my wild days.

[intelli78]

On a Poker 2, is there a way to swap the Pn and Right Control keys? I don't believe there is, but just double-checking.

[riotonthebay]

On a Poker 2, is there a way to swap the Pn and Right Control keys? I don't believe there is, but just double-checking.

There is not, unfortunately. This is one of the things that separates the Poker 2 from a fully programmable board like the GH60.

[intelli78]

On a Poker 2, is there a way to swap the Pn and Right Control keys? I don't believe there is, but just double-checking.

There is not, unfortunately. This is one of the things that separates the Poker 2 from a fully programmable board like the GH60.

Thanks for confirming.

[PhineasRex]

What profile are the keycaps sold at KeyPop.net?

[HPE1000]

What profile are the keycaps sold at KeyPop.net?

Which ones exactly?

[riotonthebay]

What profile are the keycaps sold at KeyPop.net?

Which ones exactly?

If he's talking about the full keycap sets, the single colored Tai Hao sets are OEM profile and the Bumblebee and Coffee sets are Signature Plastics DCS.

[PhineasRex]

What profile are the keycaps sold at KeyPop.net?

Which ones exactly?

The novelty keys, in particular: http://www.keypop.net/product/8-bit-heart-enter-keycap

[riotonthebay]

What profile are the keycaps sold at KeyPop.net?

Which ones exactly?

The novelty keys, in particular: http://www.keypop.net/product/8-bit-heart-enter-keycap

Manufactured in USA almost certainly means it's an SP product, which means DCS profile.

[Photoelectric]

Shape and thickness of their caps suggests DCS keycaps by SP too

[Melvang]

So I was reading the page at this kickstarter page and came across this.

"holding the Shift key on one keyboard won't capitalize the letters of the other keyboard"

This does work between my Razer Orbweaver, my Das keyboard (costar built), and my Naga Epic. 

Is this firmware issues?  Or do I just have something goofy going on in my setup or is it in the Synapse software?

[intelli78]

Does the green case here look like a custom job, or does/did someone sell it? (Maybe from a GB?)  That's the Bluegreen keyset. Any info on the source of the case or the board would be appreciated.

[SpAmRaY]

Does the green case here look like a custom job, or does/did someone sell it? (Maybe from a GB?)  That's the Bluegreen keyset. Any info on the source of the case or the board would be appreciated.

Was there supposed to be a link? or a photo?

[CPTBadAss]

So I was reading the page at this kickstarter page and came across this.

"holding the Shift key on one keyboard won't capitalize the letters of the other keyboard"

This does work between my Razer Orbweaver, my Das keyboard (costar built), and my Naga Epic. 

Is this firmware issues?  Or do I just have something goofy going on in my setup or is it in the Synapse software?

The way I'm reading that is that they have two separate keyboards that are interacting with their proprietary software.

I'm not sure what you're asking though.

You're saying that holding the shift is capitalizing letters when you hit letters on the Orbweaver or Epic? Isn't that because your computer is handling the Orbweaver and Keyboard as one input device? Same thing happens when you have 2 keyboards plugged in. you hit caps lock on one and both caps locks turn on.

Does the green case here look like a custom job, or does/did someone sell it? (Maybe from a GB?)  That's the Bluegreen keyset. Any info on the source of the case or the board would be appreciated.

Like Spamray said, I think you missed a link/photo in your post.

[Melvang]

So I was reading the page at this kickstarter page and came across this.

"holding the Shift key on one keyboard won't capitalize the letters of the other keyboard"

This does work between my Razer Orbweaver, my Das keyboard (costar built), and my Naga Epic. 

Is this firmware issues?  Or do I just have something goofy going on in my setup or is it in the Synapse software?

The way I'm reading that is that they have two separate keyboards that are interacting with their proprietary software.

I'm not sure what you're asking though.

You're saying that holding the shift is capitalizing letters when you hit letters on the Orbweaver or Epic? Isn't that because your computer is handling the Orbweaver and Keyboard as one input device? Same thing happens when you have 2 keyboards plugged in. you hit caps lock on one and both caps locks turn on.

Does the green case here look like a custom job, or does/did someone sell it? (Maybe from a GB?)  That's the Bluegreen keyset. Any info on the source of the case or the board would be appreciated.

Like Spamray said, I think you missed a link/photo in your post.

I was wondering why it would work on my setup when on the kickstarter page they say it won't work.  I will try setting a key on my orbweaver as capslock and see if the light on the Das comes on.  But shift control and alt all work across both devices.  Was wondering whey they say it doesn't work. 

Edit:  With a key on my Orbweaver set to CapsLock, it will trigger the light on my Das.  But like I said on the kickstarter page it shouldn't work this way.

[CPTBadAss]

I was wondering why it would work on my setup when on the kickstarter page they say it won't work.  I will try setting a key on my orbweaver as capslock and see if the light on the Das comes on.  But shift control and alt all work across both devices.  Was wondering whey they say it doesn't work. 

Edit:  With a key on my Orbweaver set to CapsLock, it will trigger the light on my Das.  But like I said on the kickstarter page it shouldn't work this way.

I honestly don't know.

Edit: Maybe because your Orbweaver isn't read as a keyboard?

[intelli78]

Does the green case here look like a custom job, or does/did someone sell it? (Maybe from a GB?)  That's the Bluegreen keyset. Any info on the source of the case or the board would be appreciated.

Like Spamray said, I think you missed a link/photo in your post.

Whoops! http://i.imgur.com/PmJoVoN.png

[CPTBadAss]

Does the green case here look like a custom job, or does/did someone sell it? (Maybe from a GB?)  That's the Bluegreen keyset. Any info on the source of the case or the board would be appreciated.

Like Spamray said, I think you missed a link/photo in your post.

Whoops! http://i.imgur.com/PmJoVoN.png

Looks like a custom painted QFR.

[intelli78]

Does the green case here look like a custom job, or does/did someone sell it? (Maybe from a GB?)  That's the Bluegreen keyset. Any info on the source of the case or the board would be appreciated.

Like Spamray said, I think you missed a link/photo in your post.

Whoops! http://i.imgur.com/PmJoVoN.png

Looks like a custom painted QFR.

Ah, I think you are correct, sir. Good call!

[Melvang]

I have seen a few pics of alps caps on a calculator.  Is there any that are cherry switches?

[CPTBadAss]

I have seen a few pics of alps caps on a calculator.  Is there any that are cherry switches?

I've never seen a Cherry version of the Alpsulator. It's both a numpad and a calculator, just FYI.

[SpAmRaY]

I have seen a few pics of alps caps on a calculator.  Is there any that are cherry switches?

I've never seen a Cherry version of the Alpsulator. It's both a numpad and a calculator, just FYI.

maybe that'll be techkeys next big thing the mxulator

[ajx]

little question
on Poker 2, both tilde and esc function are on same key, is there any alternative to use them separately?
its really annoying for gaming or browsing
thanks
 

[Dreamre]

For a KMAC2, how do you program the LEDs? Is there an option of turning them on/off?

Thanks.

-Edit

Found my answer here:

http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=30875.150

[intelli78]

little question
on Poker 2, both tilde and esc function are on same key, is there any alternative to use them separately?
its really annoying for gaming or browsing
thanks

One of the DIP switches converts the right control to tilde. Check your instruction manual.

[ajx]

thanks, i dont have Poker 2 yet due to the stock (most of Poker are out of stock)
any chance to remap tilde through DIP switches  on right shift instead of right control?

[CPTBadAss]

thanks, i dont have Poker 2 yet due to the stock (most of Poker are out of stock)
any chance to remap tilde through DIP switches  on right shift instead of right control?

i don't know but you can check the manual here.

[intelli78]

thanks, i dont have Poker 2 yet due to the stock (most of Poker are out of stock)
any chance to remap tilde through DIP switches  on right shift instead of right control?

i don't know but you can check the manual here.

No, there is no DIP switch setting to do that, but you should be able to accomplish that using key remapping software such as Autohotkey or KeyRemap4MacBook. Also, I believe Qtan's store has some Pokers in stock, as does MechanicalKeyboards.com (backlit only).

[Melvang]

Is there any functional difference between left and right versions of modifier keys?  Or is it mostly to just have said keys available to each hand?

[ajx]

Is there any functional difference between left and right versions of modifier keys?  Or is it mostly to just have said keys available to each hand?

i ordered at first on Banggood but i lost 2 weeks due to their unavailability, they didnt have in mx-red and must expect at least 2 weeks more
then i just came to buy from Qtan with express shipping mode, it costs more (77 eur from BG, 96 eur from Qtan)
i sold my KBT Pure backlit but i didnt know Poker/Pure were touch purchases due their unavailability
from Europe, we have only Pure Pro but i d rather pick ANSI layout over ISO plus PRO ISO layout looks weird imo (small spacebar, very tiny backspace, currently typing on some ruber **** keyboard with tiny backspace, what a bull**** really)

[Photoelectric]

Sorry if it's common knowledge, but is it normal for used MX Blues to sound less snappy and more like they have a loose spring in them?  Difficult to explain.  I've got a batch of well-used MX Blues, and they all click, but the click is not crisp and snappy like in new or relatively new Blues I've tried.  No lubrication to dampen anything.  Curious if that's normal for aging Blues.

[HoffmanMyster]

Sorry if it's common knowledge, but is it normal for used MX Blues to sound less snappy and more like they have a loose spring in them?  Difficult to explain.  I've got a batch of well-used MX Blues, and they all click, but the click is not crisp and snappy like in new or relatively new Blues I've tried.  No lubrication to dampen anything.  Curious if that's normal for aging Blues.

The blues in my Dolch are slightly less snappy than the other blues I've used.  Might be due to aging, might just be in my head.  But it seems to make sense that as they age and get worn they would be less snappy.

[Photoelectric]

Cool   I kinda like them like that!  They sound a tad more like MX Whites.  I'm seriously considering using them now instead of Clears for my LightSaver.

[HoffmanMyster]

Cool   I kinda like them like that!  They sound a tad more like MX Whites.  I'm seriously considering using them now instead of Clears for my LightSaver.

Should just get some Whites instead!

[Photoelectric]

Cool   I kinda like them like that!  They sound a tad more like MX Whites.  I'm seriously considering using them now instead of Clears for my LightSaver.

Should just get some Whites instead!

I don't see a reason to.  I've tried Whites on someone else's board, and they weren't all that different.  These Blues are already quieter than normal.  And Whites are difficult to get / expensive.

[HoffmanMyster]

Cool   I kinda like them like that!  They sound a tad more like MX Whites.  I'm seriously considering using them now instead of Clears for my LightSaver.

Should just get some Whites instead!

I don't see a reason to.  I've tried Whites on someone else's board, and they weren't all that different.  These Blues are already quieter than normal.  And Whites are difficult to get / expensive.

Whites are hugely different from any blues I've tried, so either those blues are different from the worn blues I was referring to or you just really don't want to get whites.    But yes, they are difficult to get and can be more expensive, unfortunately.

[Photoelectric]

Well, I owned a Filco with Blues until not too long ago--those Blues got turned into Jailhouse Blues--and I still have a CM switch tester with a new Blue in it.  All were much louder / more crisp than these Blues from a used Cherry G80-1800.  I've tried Whites with 62g springs in someone else's Phantom, and they were like lightly dampened normal Blues in feel and sound.  Some sounded almost like normal Blues, as the click is so non-uniform in Whites.  These used Blues are more dampened than other Blues I've owned, which is why I asked here.  I've even cleaned the insides thoroughly to make sure it's not any dirt (they were clean to start with) or lubricant causing the difference in sound.

Something I noticed is that the translucent white stem bottoms in these Blues are more crisp-sounding / more brittle and more translucent? than Blues that I used for o-ring Jailhouse mod.  Perhaps different materials.

[CPTBadAss]

Sorry if it's common knowledge, but is it normal for used MX Blues to sound less snappy and more like they have a loose spring in them?  Difficult to explain.  I've got a batch of well-used MX Blues, and they all click, but the click is not crisp and snappy like in new or relatively new Blues I've tried.  No lubrication to dampen anything.  Curious if that's normal for aging Blues.

The older/well used Blues I've tried in a Dolch PAC keyboard were very dull and non snappy like you're describing. I think it's wear.

[riotonthebay]

Is there any English documentation for the ps2avrU firmware? (Sprit's PCBs ship with this firmware.)

[CPTBadAss]

Is there any English documentation for the ps2avrU firmware? (Sprit's PCBs ship with this firmware.)

I believe that Sifo and The_Beast have experience with that firmware. You can PM them or I can later.

[riotonthebay]

Is there any English documentation for the ps2avrU firmware? (Sprit's PCBs ship with this firmware.)

I believe that Sifo and The_Beast have experience with that firmware. You can PM them or I can later.

Thanks CPT. I'll PM them later and write up here what I learn.

[CPTBadAss]

Current state of production as of 3/21/14 (From swill's post):

The GH60 OP now has a status update that I'll quote:

Current status of the Group Buy
PCBs: In production
Plates: In production
Switches: On hand
Stabilizers: Looking for source...
Assembly: to be completed by tjcaustin and komar007 once all components are received
Shipping: Not started

LED Module: In komar's hands for testing

If you want more info, quotes, or some details you can hit that more button.

More

I posted this in the OP as well but there is now an estimated production date for the GH60s. I know a lot of people are wondering about GH60 production:

The current ETA on the PCB and SMD assembly is "around March 28". Unfortunately they have to wait for atmega32u4 from their supplier.

If you are a bit newer and wondering if you can get a GH60 now, wait for them to ship or try and find someone who doesn't want their order. I know there are a lot of people who will be selling. Also, it is rumored that MechanicalKeyboards.com will carry these after the GB ships.

I don't know what's going on with the plates. I will post more when I know. The good news just keeps coming. Here's an update with the GH60 plates:

Small update:

Remember this snarky reply?

I agree with Glod. There is no reason to wait for WFD to find time to do this. Waiting now, could turn this into a huge cluster fuk..

Now at the same time, I think everyone one involved has done what they could to keep this rolling. I just see lots of other GBs going south and
people are starting to get gun shy about things going south... :/

Oh good, so will it be you or Glod who volunteers to take over the plate production??

Well, ApocalypseMaow somehow looked past my snide remark, stepped up his game, and volunteered to help with getting plates cut at a local laser cutter. He has received a quote back from at least one place, which falls within our budget for what we charged GB participants for the plates. So he will be having a sample made soon, and if all goes well, we could have plates in production in the near future. Now, this does hinge on getting a quality sample from the laser cutter, so nothing is set in stone (steel?) yet, but things are in motion already.

Edit 2/18/14: I just saw this post about the LED module -

The led module (when it's designed and ready to be sold or group-bought) should be usable in the following circumstances:
1. GH60 rev. C - no problems at all if there is no metal plate; if there is a metal plate, then the pin headers have to be installed before mounting the plate, and the module has to be soldered to the pins after the metal plate
2. GH60 rev. B prototype - same as rev. C (the error on B will *probably* not prevent this from working)
3. GH60 rev. A prototype - if holes are drilled for the LEDs and the LED matrix is hand-wired to the module; except for this, the power has to be taken from the motherboard and connected to the module, and there will be no communication between the board and the module, so special firmware will be necessary and the module will not be interactive; and of course, it will not be mounted on pins to the board, it'll have to be dropped into the case, under the board
4. any other keyboard - similar to GH60 rev. A - the module will need power, 1-2 wires for communication (setting which LEDs should be on) and 14 columns and 5 rows of LEDs.

I would classify the LED backlighting add-on module as Vaporware™ at the moment. I don't think komar has had time to work on its design just yet.

But to answer the question, yes, only those 11 LEDs will function with a "stock" GH60 PCB (final revision).

Yo son, we got updates on the plates.

Yo! I'm working on getting a sample plate to JD. Hopefully everything will be to spec regarding cut and finish.
If Captain JD approves, I'm told we can have everything cut in two weeks. Now all those things still need to be
shipped and all that. Anywho! We're getting closer

So keep your pants on... for now.

Timeline for plates:

so what is the verdict on the plate jd? do we have the switches? stabs? oh man. i am pumped.

I'm still waiting on the sample plate to arrive. I believe there is some lead time involved in having it made.

I gave the word on getting the plate made. I was told 2 weeks lead time, but I'm sure that is to cover
the company if anything goes wrong on their end. As soon as I get the plate in hand it will be shipped to JD
for testing and inspection. If everything checks out, the lead time on finishing all 518 plates is two weeks.

TLDR about a month on plates!

Pictures of Sample Plates:

Alright dudes! This is the sample plate with the 1800 plate from Beast and a phantom plate (beast had those made as well?).

Tell us what you think.

Left: Phantom
Top right: GH60
Bottom right: 1800

Show Image

Left: GH60
Top right: 1800
Bottom right: Phantom

Show Image

Back of plates. The GH plate has no burs to clean off! 
Top right: GH60

Show Image

PCB Color:

I have not been following this giant thread. Can someone tell me what the color of the PCB will be? Thanks!

White

Update on PCBs, LED module, and switches:

Okay guys, so a status update:
The PCBs have been produced and the US/Canada part is being shipped to tjcaustin. imsto's package is on its way too, directly from China.
The plates have been ordered, and they should take another week to finish production, according to ApocalypseMaow.

Since I'm responsible for everything that isn't USA or Canada, here's an extra status update for those people:
I thought I'd manage to ship the plateless orders before the ones with plates, but I won't. This has to do with our European taxes, and my beautiful country's taxes in particular. I will wait until the plates are ready to be shipped to me and then ask our PCB fab to send the boards, so that they come more or less at the same time. I won't go into details, but this is because I'd have to pay extra tax if my whole process takes too long.

As for LED backlighting, you can solder all the LEDs according to the switch legend, this means anode on the left side and it should work after attaching the LED module. Just remember, if you have a plate, solder 5 standard 100mil 5-pin headers before you solder the switches and mount the plate, or you won't manage to solder the extension module later.

Oh, and BTW, the LED module is nearly finished.

Guys, don't worry about the switches. If you ordered and paid for switches, we have them.

FYI, here's the list of people (DT usernames) who ordered switches from 7bit and had them shipped to us:
0190|Strelok
0208|bugsaint
0242|n0rvig
0247|HoffmanMyster
0248|numerus
0249|Affect656
0254|ramshao
0258|LechnerDE
0259|sriak
0260|gruener_Salat
0262|gomez18
0263|mark0331
0264|Viett
0265|Laladila
0267|gtarget
0269|LordBadger
0274|midg1t
0276|Niall
0281|snoozeymon
0282|mauri
0284|tradet
0286|bear95
0291|myndzi
0294|kdash4
0299|annerick
0304|PixelScript
0317|nebo
0337|nil
0352|Robstero
I already have those which will ship from Poland, jdcarpe should also have his part (or they'll get to him soon)

PCBs HAVE BEEN MADE AND THE US/CANADA ORDERS ARE BEING SHIPPED IF YOU ARE IN CONUS/CANADA.

Update 4/18/14 - LED module is in komar's hands for testing

Got this little teaser today:

Show Image

[heedpantsnow]

So I got a little confused by this post:  http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=54757.msg1227686#msg1227686

Now I'm wondering, do I have to get new stabs or switches if I want to put a plate on my Poker X?  It sounds like a universal ansi plate just uses the stabs already on there; what about switches?  What about a Poker layout plate?  See I'm really confused and frankly a bit of a dumbass.

[CPTBadAss]

So I got a little confused by this post:  http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=54757.msg1227686#msg1227686

Now I'm wondering, do I have to get new stabs or switches if I want to put a plate on my Poker X?  It sounds like a universal ansi plate just uses the stabs already on there; what about switches?  What about a Poker layout plate?  See I'm really confused and frankly a bit of a dumbass.

This buy is just the plate.

I believe the Universal vs Poker layout is based on the layouts in this post. I think it's best for you to get a Poker X layout.

Nothing in the plate buy has stabilizers or switches. However, you should be able to reuse the stabs and switches on your Poker. The stabilizers and switches you can use are dependent on if the PCB supports them or not.

Edited for clarity.

[heedpantsnow]

So I got a little confused by this post:  http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=54757.msg1227686#msg1227686

Now I'm wondering, do I have to get new stabs or switches if I want to put a plate on my Poker X?  It sounds like a universal ansi plate just uses the stabs already on there; what about switches?  What about a Poker layout plate?  See I'm really confused and frankly a bit of a dumbass.

This buy is just the plate.

I believe the Universal vs Poker layout is based on the layouts in this post. I think it's best for you to get a Poker X layout.

Nothing in the plate buy has stabilizers or switches. However, you should be able to reuse the stabs and switches on your Poker. The stabilizers and switches you can use are dependent on if the PCB supports them or not.

Edited for clarity.

OK, got it.  I can reuse my switches or stabs from my existing pcb-mounted poker on either of those plates, but it's better to use the Poker layout plate than the Ansi Universal layout plate.  Is that right?

[CPTBadAss]

Yes, you should be able to reuse your parts. And yes, you should use the Poker layout because that's what the Poker PCB supports. The universal is better for the GH60 which has multiple layout options.