Author Topic: Prototyping New Keyboard Designs (Using Plate Mounting and Direct Wiring)  (Read 140775 times)

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Offline TD22057

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Here is my current front running design.  Things I'm trying to achieve:
  • split hand, ~10 deg angle, reasonably small size
  • close to qwerty layout
  • mostly symmetric, matrix design
  • consistent keycaps (no hodge podge of different styles)
  • function layer with keys I use in programming []{}()+-*/=\`~|

Things that aren't that important to me:
  • Cursor control (arrows, page up/dn, etc) key locations.  I use emacs and have tons of cursor control options mapped to various CTRL keys
  • Key locations for `[]\/-=.  All of these keys will be on my function layer so the actual key locations aren't that important.
  • Print screen, scroll lock, pause/break
  • Windows key, menu key (never use them)

I chose 1.5 width keys for most things because that might let me use row 3 keys (tab row) for the whole keyboard except the bottom row.  That row keycap profile is close to flat so I think it would be almost as good as a DSA style set.  I'm going to see if WASD will let me do a whole keyboard worth of caps using row 3 (tab row) style keycaps instead of the usual mix which would let me do a custom set of labels for a reasonable amount of money.

I haven't settled on a the placement of all the keys around the edges yet.  I'll probably add a separate keypad unit as well (with everything connected using I2C like the ergodox) that could sit between the two hands or where ever I like it.  It would be nice to get a set of arrow keys in the main layout but I'm not seeing anywhere to do that yet (I might add arrows to my numpad plate though).  I also might move some keys to the function layer if it frees up enough space for a nice arrow key layout.

Any feedback or ideas you have would be welcome. 

Update: Moved ~ to the right side which allows for a set of arrow keys in the upper left.  Started adding function layer keys.
« Last Edit: Sun, 26 May 2013, 21:36:47 by TD22057 »

Offline domoaligato

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I need some help.  :-[
I just got back from my vacation and I wanted to hardwire one switch to the teensey and then flash a firmware to it.
so far I am able to flash pre-made firmware to it with no problems but I need to know which firmware repo on github would be the easiest to work with to modify and remap to my matrix.
I have downloaded the code from here https://github.com/BathroomEpiphanies/AVR-Keyboard
and I wanted to modify it for myself but I can't even compile the default phantom code.

I installed winavr and upon typing make this is the output.

find . -regextype posix-awk -regex \
                "(.*\.cof|.*\.elf|.*\.map|.*\.sym|.*\.lss|.*\.o|.*\.lst|.*\.s|.
\.d|.*\.i)" \
                -exec rm {} +
find: invalid predicate `-regextype'
make: *** [end] Error 1


Offline domoaligato

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on my ubuntu vm
sudo apt-get install avrdude binutils-avr gcc-avr avr-libc gdb-avr

then typing make...

Code: [Select]
domoaligato@buildbot ~/Downloads/AVR-Keyboard-master $ make

Compiling C: avr_keyboard.c
avr-gcc -c -mmcu=atmega32u4 -I. -DF_CPU=16000000UL -D__INCLUDE_KEYBOARD=\"phantom/board.h\" -D__INCLUDE_LAYOUT=\"phantom/ansi_iso_win.h\" -D__BOOTLOADER_JUMP=\"jmp\ 0x7E00\" -O2 -ffunction-sections -Wall -Wstrict-prototypes -Wa,-adhlns=avr_keyboard.lst -std=gnu99 -MMD -MP -MF .dep/avr_keyboard.o.d avr_keyboard.c -o avr_keyboard.o

Compiling C: usb_keyboard_debug.c
avr-gcc -c -mmcu=atmega32u4 -I. -DF_CPU=16000000UL -D__INCLUDE_KEYBOARD=\"phantom/board.h\" -D__INCLUDE_LAYOUT=\"phantom/ansi_iso_win.h\" -D__BOOTLOADER_JUMP=\"jmp\ 0x7E00\" -O2 -ffunction-sections -Wall -Wstrict-prototypes -Wa,-adhlns=usb_keyboard_debug.lst -std=gnu99 -MMD -MP -MF .dep/usb_keyboard_debug.o.d usb_keyboard_debug.c -o usb_keyboard_debug.o

Compiling C: print.c
avr-gcc -c -mmcu=atmega32u4 -I. -DF_CPU=16000000UL -D__INCLUDE_KEYBOARD=\"phantom/board.h\" -D__INCLUDE_LAYOUT=\"phantom/ansi_iso_win.h\" -D__BOOTLOADER_JUMP=\"jmp\ 0x7E00\" -O2 -ffunction-sections -Wall -Wstrict-prototypes -Wa,-adhlns=print.lst -std=gnu99 -MMD -MP -MF .dep/print.o.d print.c -o print.o

Compiling C: phantom/board.c
avr-gcc -c -mmcu=atmega32u4 -I. -DF_CPU=16000000UL -D__INCLUDE_KEYBOARD=\"phantom/board.h\" -D__INCLUDE_LAYOUT=\"phantom/ansi_iso_win.h\" -D__BOOTLOADER_JUMP=\"jmp\ 0x7E00\" -O2 -ffunction-sections -Wall -Wstrict-prototypes -Wa,-adhlns=phantom/board.lst -std=gnu99 -MMD -MP -MF .dep/board.o.d phantom/board.c -o phantom/board.o

Compiling C: phantom/ansi_iso_win.c
avr-gcc -c -mmcu=atmega32u4 -I. -DF_CPU=16000000UL -D__INCLUDE_KEYBOARD=\"phantom/board.h\" -D__INCLUDE_LAYOUT=\"phantom/ansi_iso_win.h\" -D__BOOTLOADER_JUMP=\"jmp\ 0x7E00\" -O2 -ffunction-sections -Wall -Wstrict-prototypes -Wa,-adhlns=phantom/ansi_iso_win.lst -std=gnu99 -MMD -MP -MF .dep/ansi_iso_win.o.d phantom/ansi_iso_win.c -o phantom/ansi_iso_win.o

Linking: avr_keyboard.elf
avr-gcc -mmcu=atmega32u4 -I. -DF_CPU=16000000UL -D__INCLUDE_KEYBOARD=\"phantom/board.h\" -D__INCLUDE_LAYOUT=\"phantom/ansi_iso_win.h\" -D__BOOTLOADER_JUMP=\"jmp\ 0x7E00\" -O2 -ffunction-sections -Wall -Wstrict-prototypes -Wa,-adhlns=avr_keyboard.o -std=gnu99 -MMD -MP -MF .dep/avr_keyboard.elf.d avr_keyboard.o usb_keyboard_debug.o print.o phantom/board.o phantom/ansi_iso_win.o --output avr_keyboard.elf -Wl,-Map=avr_keyboard.map,--cref -Wl,--relax -Wl,--gc-sections -lm

Creating load file for Flash: avr_keyboard.hex
avr-objcopy -O ihex -R .eeprom -R .fuse -R .lock -R .signature avr_keyboard.elf avr_keyboard.hex

Creating load file for EEPROM: avr_keyboard.eep
avr-objcopy -j .eeprom --set-section-flags=.eeprom="alloc,load" \
--change-section-lma .eeprom=0 --no-change-warnings -O ihex avr_keyboard.elf avr_keyboard.eep || exit 0

find . -regextype posix-awk -regex \
"(.*\.cof|.*\.elf|.*\.map|.*\.sym|.*\.lss|.*\.o|.*\.lst|.*\.s|.*\.d|.*\.i)" \
-exec rm {} +
rm -rf .dep
domoaligato@buildbot ~/Downloads/AVR-Keyboard-master $

this generated avr_keyboard.hex in the root

I guess I will just need to do my hex dev in a vm.

Offline domoaligato

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anyone know how to assign my matrix to my layout in this software? where to begin?
for testing it is just a 1x1 matrix containing only one switch atm.

Offline TotalChaos

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I chose 1.5 width keys for most things because that might let me use row 3 keys (tab row) for the whole keyboard except the bottom row.  That row keycap profile is close to flat so I think it would be almost as good as a DSA style set.  I'm going to see if WASD will let me do a whole keyboard worth of caps using row 3 (tab row) style keycaps instead of the usual mix which would let me do a custom set of labels for a reasonable amount of money.


Let me know how that goes.

I have been bugging Mr. WASD for a uniform profile keycaps option for a long time now.

I really don't like the hodge-podge profile keycaps.
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Offline TD22057

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Thanks to The_Ed, I have all of my MX brown switches (210 of them) and stabilizers.  I tried using styrofoam to check my layout but the PCM mounting fins kept the switches from entering the foam.  I'm going to try cutting out some holes in cardboard and see how that goes.  Once I'm OK with that, I'm ready to get some plates cut.

Here's my current baseline design.  I really think the 1.5 standard width for the mod keys will be nice as I'll be able to swap all the modifiers around as I need to after I get some use on it.  I managed to snag a DSA retro keycap set in the classifieds area for an ergodox so it has enough 1.5 keys to make everything.  Not quite the look I was going for but I think they'll look nice.

24491-0

Offline TD22057

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Prototyping with cardboard works just fine.  It was a pain to cut out all the holes but it's nice that I can actually type on it.  Impossible to change of course but I guess you can't have everything and cardboard is cheap.

24677-0

Overall it's not too bad.  I'd prefer the arrows down and to the right but there really isn't room and it's probably just what I'm used to and not an actual problem.  Not sure about the function key location - I expect to use that a lot and they aren't in the best location.   I might move them down on the bottom row.   A few minor tweaks and I think I'll be ready to order some plates.

Offline TD22057

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My keycaps arrived today and I think the prototype looks great.  I'll be talking to machine shops and ordering plates made as soon as I have some free time (hopefully next week).


Offline bpiphany

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Those keycaps look very much like mine =D except for the colors. Same size font and alignment. Looking good.

Offline TheSoulhunter

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Crossposting: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=40812.msg812308#msg812308

I'm working on a "ergonomic" gaming keypad atm, mainly for FPS (as RTS/MMO need sooo many buttons the "ergo" part becomes impossible). The idea is to place all the commonly used buttons so that they are comfortably to reach without stretching the fingers too far, forcing em into a awkward angle, or moving the hand around too much. Below is my first attempt for the layout, feel free to try it (print out) and see how good you can reach the center of the buttons (Note: For now the buttons are simply straight, but I will probably tilt/turn the keys later to match the angle of the fingers) and make suggestions for improvement etc...

Show Image


Someone willing to do a plate for this? ^^;

Beyond my plate skillz. :P

Thought so...
Probably gonna use Epoxy for the prototype then.


Ok, did it on my own...  :cool:

I present you the SH-GamePad-v2:

(Attachment Link)

One step closer...

25358-0 25360-1

Offline jdcarpe

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Loving these new designs! You guys rock!!

Keep up the great work. :)
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Offline TD22057

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Offline Melvang

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Now now to mount the teensy inside a metal case?
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Offline domoaligato

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Now now to mount the teensy inside a metal case?
for permanent mounting only.
http://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Heavy-Duty-Mounting-Clear/dp/B00004Z4BU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1371252582&sr=8-1&keywords=3m+scotch+mounting+tape+4010

are you sure that that stuff is not conductive?


http://products3.3m.com/catalog/au/en005/office/office/node_GSWXL9B1BVgs/root_D58K9TX3VWgv/vroot_G3SJG25V2Hge/bgel_31G4GZMPRNbl/gvel_WMK00LBHNRgl/theme_au_office_3_0/command_AbcPageHandler/output_html

   
Adhesive Material - Acrylic
Backing Material - High Density Urethane Foam

edit I should read this sh!t before I post it. conductive... maybe. I will see.

to be sure I will have my project finished early next week and I will mount mine in my lego case with it.

I will report back and let you all know if I fry my teensy 2.0. :)


« Last Edit: Fri, 14 June 2013, 18:53:10 by domoaligato »

Offline Melvang

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What i was thinking was to solder the teensy to a bread board with mounting holes and then drill and tap some holes into the case.  Install with nuts above and below the bread board or just screw the bread board right to the case.  But either way when the pins are soldered into the teensy just barely have them into the teensy or just below it and bridge a small gap with solder than you still have the hole for soldering the wire to the pads.

Melvang
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Offline Thimplum

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Sorry if this is a dumb question, but what software are you using to make plate designs?
TP4 FOR ADMIN 2013

Offline TD22057

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Sorry if this is a dumb question, but what software are you using to make plate designs?

See post 35 and 113 for sample CAD files.  See post 94 for free CAD software and an explanation of what do to.

Offline Matt3o

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in case you missed it here's my step by step tutorial to a hardwired keyboard http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=45139.msg941047#msg941047

Offline Thimplum

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Thank you very much sir.
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Offline TheSoulhunter

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Sorry if this is a dumb question, but what software are you using to make plate designs?

I went with Photoshop... :3
Simply used resolution as scale (1pix=0.1mm)

Offline TD22057

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Got my first price quote today for laser cutting my plates from a local engineering firm and I'm a bit disappointed.  I sent them my split hand w/ numpad design (3 separate pieces) and asked for 2 keyboards (6 total pieces) and it came back as roughly $70 per piece or $210 per keyboard for the plates.  They're a pretty big firm so I'm hoping it just that my order is too small for them.  I expanded my search radius and sent out 3 more price requests this afternoon.  Hopefully someone can cut these at a decent price...

Offline The_Beast

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Got my first price quote today for laser cutting my plates from a local engineering firm and I'm a bit disappointed.  I sent them my split hand w/ numpad design (3 separate pieces) and asked for 2 keyboards (6 total pieces) and it came back as roughly $70 per piece or $210 per keyboard for the plates.  They're a pretty big firm so I'm hoping it just that my order is too small for them.  I expanded my search radius and sent out 3 more price requests this afternoon.  Hopefully someone can cut these at a decent price...


Holy moly!

Do you have DWG files? I should be able to get something cut a lot cheaper than that. International shipping might put a damper on the deal, but $210!!!!
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Offline TD22057

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Holy moly!

Do you have DWG files? I should be able to get something cut a lot cheaper than that. International shipping might put a damper on the deal, but $210!!!!

I'm in CA so it wouldn't be international (unless your location is wrong).  CAD file attached with all 6 pieces in it.  0.06" steel (16 ga) or aluminium (15 ga) - don't care.  I'm still hoping I can find someone to support locally but if you can get a decent price, that might be my best option.  PM me if you're interested.

Offline TD22057

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Huge thanks to The_Beast!  My plates are being cut at a reasonable cost and I found my second set of DSA retro keycaps w/ a numpad kit.  So I've got all of the components either on the way or here to make two custom keyboards!

One question:  My Cherry browns have a diode in them (they were harvested from a POS keyboard).  My original plan was to use those but since I don't have a PCB, it seems like it might be extra work to bridge the switch->diode pins and then wire switches together rather than just connecting everything up w/ diode's in the first place.  Any opinions on using the diodes in the switches vs ignoring them and adding external diodes?

Offline The_Beast

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Huge thanks to The_Beast!  My plates are being cut at a reasonable cost and I found my second set of DSA retro keycaps w/ a numpad kit.  So I've got all of the components either on the way or here to make two custom keyboards!

One question:  My Cherry browns have a diode in them (they were harvested from a POS keyboard).  My original plan was to use those but since I don't have a PCB, it seems like it might be extra work to bridge the switch->diode pins and then wire switches together rather than just connecting everything up w/ diode's in the first place.  Any opinions on using the diodes in the switches vs ignoring them and adding external diodes?

No problem dude, I hate to see people get screwed over!
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Offline bueller

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I should be turning out something in the coming weeks provided I can source MX Browns. Have been putting off getting quotes from laser cutters but I sent off for quotes today and the prices I'm getting are awesome so far, averaging from $30-$40 AUD for a 68 key layout. I was expecting at least double that so I'm pretty happy, still waiting on quotes from about 10 places too so hopefully I can get them even cheaper.
It's a good width!  If it's half-width it's too narrow, and full-width is too wide. 

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Offline Melvang

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When you guys are building new layouts and Ergo Dox variations what do you guys use for spacing between 1x keys and between outside keys and the adjacent 1x keys?

Melvang
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Offline Zifle

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When you guys are building new layouts and Ergo Dox variations what do you guys use for spacing between 1x keys and between outside keys and the adjacent 1x keys?

Melvang

I've used 5.08mm, from border to border on the plate. You'll want someone else to confirm, though. You can also very likely chop that .08 off, it's so little it shouldn't matter at all.
This distance is the same horizontal, as well as vertical.
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Offline Matt3o

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I use 19mm distance between center of two 1u keys (not 19.05 as suggested)

So distance between sides is something like:

Code: [Select]
( (19 × u1 − 14) + (19 × u2 − 14) ) ÷ 2
Where u1 is the size in units for the first key and u2 of the second.

Eg: if I want to get the distance between a 1.5 and a 1.25 key I do

Code: [Select]
( (19 × 1.5 − 14) + (19 × 1.25 − 14) ) ÷ 2 = 12.125mm
This worked well for both the Steely and the the Brownfox, but they are two open frame keyboards (so I do not risk to hit the sides)
« Last Edit: Sun, 14 July 2013, 10:41:04 by Matt3o »

Offline Melvang

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I use 19mm distance between center of two 1u keys (not 19.05 as suggested)

So distance between sides is something like:

Code: [Select]
( (19 × u1 − 14) + (19 × u2 − 14) ) ÷ 2
Where u1 is the size in units for the first key and u2 of the second.

Eg: if I want to get the distance between a 1.5 and a 1.25 key I do

Code: [Select]
( (19 × 1.5 − 14) + (19 × 1.5 − 14) ) ÷ 2 = 12.125mm
This worked well for both the Steely and the the Brownfox, but they are two open frame keyboards (so I do not risk to hit the sides)

I like this.  Now how close to a straight line does this put the outside edge of the main area?

Also Matt3o it has been a few days since I have looked at these 2 projects and really like the look of them.  But don't remember if either one had the navigation cluster/arrow keys.  How would you space those out from the main body of keys?
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Offline bueller

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I use 19mm distance between center of two 1u keys (not 19.05 as suggested)

So distance between sides is something like:

Code: [Select]
( (19 × u1 − 14) + (19 × u2 − 14) ) ÷ 2
Where u1 is the size in units for the first key and u2 of the second.

Eg: if I want to get the distance between a 1.5 and a 1.25 key I do

Code: [Select]
( (19 × 1.5 − 14) + (19 × 1.5 − 14) ) ÷ 2 = 12.125mm
This worked well for both the Steely and the the Brownfox, but they are two open frame keyboards (so I do not risk to hit the sides)


Ahhhh formulas. As a programmer I like this  :D
It's a good width!  If it's half-width it's too narrow, and full-width is too wide. 

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Offline Matt3o

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I like this.  Now how close to a straight line does this put the outside edge of the main area?

Not sure I understand what you mean, but the clearance between the keys and the case is:

Code: [Select]
( (19 × u1 − 14) ) ÷ 2
vertically is always 2.5mm. To that you may add a whisker if you want to be safe.

Also Matt3o it has been a few days since I have looked at these 2 projects and really like the look of them.  But don't remember if either one had the navigation cluster/arrow keys.  How would you space those out from the main body of keys?

Yes I have the arrow cluster but they are not distanced from the other keys. The distance is up to you. Filco seems to put 0.5u between the arrows and the main body (a very rough estimate).

Offline Melvang

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I like this.  Now how close to a straight line does this put the outside edge of the main area?

Not sure I understand what you mean, but the clearance between the keys and the case is:


Sorry I probably should have been a little more clear what i was asking.  When using this formula was wondering about the alignment of the left side of the Ctrl, Shift, Caps Lock, Tab, and Tilde key and the right side of the Ctrl, Shift, Enter, \, and Backspace keys.

Edit:  Adding another question for you Matt.  With this spacing how much room does that put between keycaps?  Preferably Cherry profile as I am in for the Toxic set for a GB for a really custom keyboard that I am building.
« Last Edit: Mon, 08 July 2013, 09:13:08 by Melvang »
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Offline Matt3o

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Sorry I probably should have been a little more clear what i was asking.  When using this formula was wondering about the alignment of the left side of the Ctrl, Shift, Caps Lock, Tab, and Tilde key and the right side of the Ctrl, Shift, Enter, \, and Backspace keys.

start from the top left key that will most probably be a 1u. Top and left margin is 2.5mm. For the others use the above formula (the simplified one).

Edit:  Adding another question for you Matt.  With this spacing how much room does that put between keycaps?  Preferably Cherry profile as I am in for the Toxic set for a GB for a really custom keyboard that I am building.

distance is just a pinch less than 1mm

Offline funkystuhero

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Can someone capable of doing it whip  up something 2tu-esque for me? I really like how it has no bezel but i'm not a fan of the way the top 2 rows are done. I'd much prefer to have a full-sized backspace key, and settle for no 'delete'. Here's a picture of what its plate looks like with its normal layout as a basic guide:
27955-0
I'm trying to make something an a way smaller budget, as well as adding my preferences to it.

Offline Thimplum

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I use 19mm distance between center of two 1u keys (not 19.05 as suggested)

So distance between sides is something like:

Code: [Select]
( (19 × u1 − 14) + (19 × u2 − 14) ) ÷ 2
Where u1 is the size in units for the first key and u2 of the second.

Eg: if I want to get the distance between a 1.5 and a 1.25 key I do

Code: [Select]
( (19 × 1.5 − 14) + (19 × 1.5 − 14) ) ÷ 2 = 12.125mm
This worked well for both the Steely and the the Brownfox, but they are two open frame keyboards (so I do not risk to hit the sides)

Thanks. I was about to start measuring stuff. We do NOT want that to happen.
TP4 FOR ADMIN 2013

Offline bueller

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Just sent off for the final quote on my design! Just hoping the cost doesn't blow out too much, got quoted $29 for the plate and base only in 2mm aluminium so I don't think adding the 3mm case layers will add too much. Also wound up changing the plate to 1.5mm for my first custom, didn't want to run into problems so early in the game.

EDIT: Updated attachments to reflect correct space bar stabilizer AND backspace positions, also changed the thickness of the case to allow an extra mm gap between itself and the switches.


« Last Edit: Sat, 13 July 2013, 09:59:51 by bueller »
It's a good width!  If it's half-width it's too narrow, and full-width is too wide. 

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Offline Zifle

  • Posts: 166
  • Location: Denmark
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EDIT: Have I screwed up the stabs for the spacebar? Aligned the bottom of the stab slots with the holes for the switches, not sure if that is right or not. Added CAD file if someone can take a look.

They should have the same vertical offset, as the ones used on 2u keys, so yes, you'll have to move them down a little.
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Offline bueller

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Cheers, did some measurements and they need to be offset by .75mm for future reference!
It's a good width!  If it's half-width it's too narrow, and full-width is too wide. 

[WTT] bueller's trade thread - CLACKS WANTED

Offline UniClown

  • Posts: 153
  • Location: Maryland, USA
Just sent off for the final quote on my design! Just hoping the cost doesn't blow out too much, got quoted $29 for the plate and base only in 2mm aluminium so I don't think adding the 3mm case layers will add too much. Also wound up changing the plate to 1.5mm for my first custom, didn't want to run into problems so early in the game.

EDIT: Updated attachments to reflect correct space bar stabilizer positions, also changed the thickness of the case to allow an extra mm gap between itself and the switches.

Show Image

Show Image


I'm having a hard time picturing your layout. Where is your backspace? Is it 1x? Sorry if I'm missing something, but I'm interested in trying out a 65% myself and am curious.

Offline bueller

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Just sent off for the final quote on my design! Just hoping the cost doesn't blow out too much, got quoted $29 for the plate and base only in 2mm aluminium so I don't think adding the 3mm case layers will add too much. Also wound up changing the plate to 1.5mm for my first custom, didn't want to run into problems so early in the game.

EDIT: Updated attachments to reflect correct space bar stabilizer positions, also changed the thickness of the case to allow an extra mm gap between itself and the switches.

Show Image

Show Image


I'm having a hard time picturing your layout. Where is your backspace? Is it 1x? Sorry if I'm missing something, but I'm interested in trying out a 65% myself and am curious.

I'm having a hard time realising how that even happened, cheers for pointing it out! Thank god you caught it, I would have sent that to the cutters!
It's a good width!  If it's half-width it's too narrow, and full-width is too wide. 

[WTT] bueller's trade thread - CLACKS WANTED

Offline TD22057

  • Posts: 177
  • Location: Southern California
I'm having a hard time picturing your layout. Where is your backspace? Is it 1x? Sorry if I'm missing something, but I'm interested in trying out a 65% myself and am curious.

I'm having a hard time realising how that even happened, cheers for pointing it out! Thank god you caught it, I would have sent that to the cutters!

One thing that I found useful for this is to use layers (using free draftsight CAD software).  I use two layers: 1) switch holes and part outline to cut, 2) outline around the hole w/ the correct switch size and text for the key.  Having layer 2 makes it easy to position everything (using the outlines) and easy to see which keys are which (using the text).  To send it to the cutters, just delete everything in layer 2 leaving just the holes behind and it's ready to go.

Offline bueller

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Alright I've updated my layout again to include the correct backspace size, also updated the attachments in my previous post so no-one gets caught out.

I'm having a hard time picturing your layout. Where is your backspace? Is it 1x? Sorry if I'm missing something, but I'm interested in trying out a 65% myself and am curious.

Here is the layout I've been using to visualise everything. If it looks like it hasn't loaded properly just refresh the page and it should come good.
« Last Edit: Sat, 13 July 2013, 09:59:34 by bueller »
It's a good width!  If it's half-width it's too narrow, and full-width is too wide. 

[WTT] bueller's trade thread - CLACKS WANTED

Offline TD22057

  • Posts: 177
  • Location: Southern California
Got a package from The_Beast today...  the the last piece of my keyboard puzzle has arrived.  Time to start assembly,get the firmware finished, and start working on my case design.


Offline UniClown

  • Posts: 153
  • Location: Maryland, USA
Alright I've updated my layout again to include the correct backspace size, also updated the attachments in my previous post so no-one gets caught out.

I'm having a hard time picturing your layout. Where is your backspace? Is it 1x? Sorry if I'm missing something, but I'm interested in trying out a 65% myself and am curious.

Here is the layout I've been using to visualise everything. If it looks like it hasn't loaded properly just refresh the page and it should come good.

Phew!

Edit: here was the layout I was considering. All the keys on the right are going to be in the correct profile.

I'm interested in what you are considering for your Function layer.
« Last Edit: Sat, 13 July 2013, 18:48:22 by UniClown »

Offline bueller

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My micro-controller arrived today! Decided not to go with a teensy as the shipping to Australia was going to take too long and be too expensive, wound up with this board for under $20 shipped so I'm pretty happy. Runs the same controller as the Teensy as well so hopefully I won't run into any problems.



Also got the final quote back on my case. Funnily enough even with the plate, base and 3mm layers for the sides it was still under their minimum charge of $66 so I was pretty relieved. Thought it was going to wind up being the most expensive part of the build!
It's a good width!  If it's half-width it's too narrow, and full-width is too wide. 

[WTT] bueller's trade thread - CLACKS WANTED

Offline Glod

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hmmmm

thinking i may use a vortex poker plate to learn how to do direct wiring with the teensy.....get a feel for how hard it is and if i want to design my own.

Offline jeffgran

  • Posts: 126
  • Location: Denver
This is a first crack at a design I'm thinking about. I'm jealous of all the little 60% boards but I don't want that dumb archaic staggered layout, so I'm thinking about a mini matrix-type keyboard.

Sorry for the lazy photoshopping, but the keys I blanked out were not labeled even close to what they should be, so this should lessen confusion.

Trying to get as many thumb buttons as possible for space, backspace, command, control, alt, tab and shift-tab (as one key, it's awesome you should try it), etc. And layer-shift buttons a-la ergodox.

Also thinking it would be sweet to put a trackball in that middle spot, with some buttons in the little triangle spaces above the numbers (if the case were squared of on the top half).

28393-0