Model M mod - I'm 60% of the M I used to be 8.14.2013

[The_Beast]

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Pre cutting:
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I forgot the SD card in my camera today, so I only had around 5 pictures that I could take, otherwise I would have taken more







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Post cutting:
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Testing:
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Case cutting:
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Case gluing:
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Case Sanding:
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Well, the case was dropped on my desk and the glue for the front of the top piece broke cleanly so I re glued them today and added another scrap piece of the case for reinforcement. I also sanded it to a matte finish. I think I'll still be painting it.



Looking a bit derpy. I'll have to re-crack the seem and retry again.







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Finally typing on it!:
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Some more fine tuning:
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The front was looking a bit derpy so I broke the reinforcement and reworked it. However, I was surprised that the reenforces sheared. I guess that speaks a lot about the glue I used.


I also had a chip out on the top of the case and I got around to fixing that as well



The front isn't the best, but it wasn't that great to begin with






Another project I'm taking on at the moment. Here are links to some of the other stuff I'm working on:

Beast Builds - A keyboard case
Beast Builds - A maple and purpleheart desk
Beast Builds - A walnut shelf

[CPTBadAss]

Oh my god. I wish I could relive this moment when I first saw these pictures. I can't wait to see how it turns out. And you should take pictures of the membrane for me!

[tipo33]

I will be following this with great intrest,  as you know I am a big fan of the M,  and I eventually want to build my own BS HHKB.

[The_Beast]

I will be following this with great intrest,  as you know I am a big fan of the M,  and I eventually want to build my own BS HHKB.

Yea, no layout changes for me, I quite like the layout except the arrows and numberpad

[mashby]

I will be watching this with great interest.

[fohat.digs]

I have a few Model M and M-122 carcasses that I bought to harvest keycaps.

For about $10 each + plus shipping you guys can have some cases and plates to experiment with.

If I do one, I think I will keep the 6-pack/arrow keys and left Function keys from a 122, for a wide but shallow configuration.

[The_Beast]

As you can see in the bottom two pictures, I didn't put a hammer back in F2. I just took it apart, put the hammer in F2 and put it back together. However, I put the black mat on the wrong side! I put it on the metal side of the backplate and not on the plastic part!

Crap! It still works, but crap!

[fohat.digs]

Don't worry, be happy.

I have done at least half a dozen bolt-mods, and I don't think I ever got everything exactly right on the first try.

Don't beat yourself up until after the 3rd take-apart.

And have you learned yet not to try leaving the keycaps on?

[The_Beast]

Don't worry, be happy.

I have done at least half a dozen bolt-mods, and I don't think I ever got everything exactly right on the first try.

Don't beat yourself up until after the 3rd take-apart.

And have you learned yet not to try leaving the keycaps on?

I just got done with the 3rd tear down of this thing, it wasn't too bad, just a waste of time for a dumb mistake.

I didn't have the caps on any of the times I took it apart. In the bolt mod wiki, it suggested taking them off, so they've stay off the entire time

[The_Beast]

Well after the 3rd bolt mod to this guy, it's finally up and running! The right control doesn't always catch a light keystroke, but it works. BTW, is there a certain amount of torque to apply to the bolts?

[fohat.digs]

is there a certain amount of torque to apply to the bolts?

I like a relatively light touch and sound.

For me, that means loose nuts. I use the 4mm socket in my bare fingers, without the ratchet handle, and turn to "just barely snug"

I do not apply any extra force or tighten them down hard in any way.

Remember also, to screw the bolts in nice and tight from the insertion side.

Uneven tightening can make individual keys (or areas) act funny or miss altogether.

[mkawa]

even tightening can do the same thing actually. it depends on the gauge and material used for the stamped backplate. this has changed drastically over the years, believe it or not. the nice thing about the plastic rivet design is that it is highly flexible w/rt backplate; it's quite brilliant actually. not so much with the bolts.

[mashby]

I understand that you've cut away the plate and the plastic barrel plate, but what are you doing with the membrane underneath?

[The_Beast]

I understand that you've cut away the plate and the plastic barrel plate, but what are you doing with the membrane underneath?

It's folded, tucked and taped behind the metal back plate. I think I've said this before, this is a really simple mod to do

[fohat.digs]

even tightening can do the same thing actually. it depends on the gauge and material used for the stamped backplate. this has changed drastically over the years, believe it or not. the nice thing about the plastic rivet design is that it is highly flexible w/rt backplate; it's quite brilliant actually. not so much with the bolts.

My answer was probably a bit simplistic, and, also, all of my bolt-mods are IBM-branded Ms, 1991 or earlier.

The old ones (1986-88) had much heavier metal back plates, and none of my barrel plates ("chimneys" in Unicomp-speak) were cracked or damaged.

Either way, the nuts and bolts do allow you an opportunity to tweak the stresses between the components.

It would be interesting if nylon bolts were available that small!

[The_Beast]

even tightening can do the same thing actually. it depends on the gauge and material used for the stamped backplate. this has changed drastically over the years, believe it or not. the nice thing about the plastic rivet design is that it is highly flexible w/rt backplate; it's quite brilliant actually. not so much with the bolts.

My answer was probably a bit simplistic, and, also, all of my bolt-mods are IBM-branded Ms, 1991 or earlier.

The old ones (1986-88) had much heavier metal back plates, and none of my barrel plates ("chimneys" in Unicomp-speak) were cracked or damaged.

Either way, the nuts and bolts do allow you an opportunity to tweak the stresses between the components.

It would be interesting if nylon bolts were available that small!

Yea, the one I'm using for this mod is an '88 and I couldn't fit any of the washers on the back

[CPTBadAss]

I'm waiting for you to cut that case down and fuse it together before I do this mod. I'm not sure if that will be as easy.

[fohat.digs]

Yea, the one I'm using for this mod is an '88 and I couldn't fit any of the washers on the back

I would recommend the washers. Although I said that I do not tighten the nuts very hard, I do use both hands and a small phillips screwdriver to ensure that the bolts are firmly seated on the front side, and that the plates are nestled snug against each other. You have to be careful not to jostle the springs out of position, but there should be enough threads showing on the back if the front is seated firmly.

[reverkiller]

What are you going to do for a case?

I know you love your woodwork, are you going to make a wooden case?

(Sorry if I missed it, but I read the thread and didn't see anything)

[Thimplum]

This... Is... Awesome!
.. O
.. /I_
.. /
[][][][][] ... >-/-O... [][][][]
[][][][][] ................ [][][][]
[][][][][] ................ [][][][]

[The_Beast]

What are you going to do for a case?

I know you love your woodwork, are you going to make a wooden case?

(Sorry if I missed it, but I read the thread and didn't see anything)

I'll be cutting the case first. If that fails, I'll come up with a wooden solution

[kmiller8]

It's folded, tucked and taped behind the metal back plate. I think I've said this before, this is a really simple mod to do

The_Beast does a great tuck-job, you should see him on the weekends.

[The_Beast]

It's folded, tucked and taped behind the metal back plate. I think I've said this before, this is a really simple mod to do

The_Beast does a great tuck-job, you should see him on the weekends.

huehuehue

[The_Beast]

Cut the case today using the table saw



The width of the uncut side vs the cut side (1.1965" of stock, 1.1970 cut):





With the internals in it:





The case was pretty brittle and since it was unsupported as I crept up on the final width, I got some chip out. Wear safely glasses!




I'll be playing with adhesives tomorrow

[The_Beast]

Well the case isn't ABS since some shavings didn't melt in acetone, so I'm guessing PBT since it seems really brittle. I've found a site about PBT bonding and nothing is really great at bonding PBT, but there are some good adhesives. This site recommends a cleaned surface (I used acetone) and Cyanoacrylate glue (super glue)


I glued together 4 pieces. One sanded and no acetone clean up and one that wasn't sanded but was cleaned with acetone. The sanded/no cleanup seemed stronger, however, it was the bottom of the case and has a much higher surface area. I think when I do the final glue up, it will be sanded and cleaned with acetone.

When I broke the glue ups apart, they broke with clean straight lines exactly where they were cut. I'm guessing that this means the case isn't fusing to each other.

[Matt3o]

I wasn't aware of this thread and posted something similar on DT, I should look closer to the "making stuff together". I'm basically doing the same project, but I  cut the case in a different place.

More

Have a look (hope you don't mind if I pollute your post):

I believe that it's easier to cut it at the end of the alpha block and turned out pretty well after all. But if I looked at your pics earlier I would have probably done the same as you.

Edit: picture hidden not to spoil your thread

[The_Beast]

I wasn't aware of this thread and posted something similar on DT, I should look closer to the "making stuff together". I'm basically doing the same project, but I  cut the case in a different place. Have a look (hope you don't mind if I pollute your post):

Show Image

I believe that it's easier to cut it at the end of the alpha block and turned out pretty well after all. But if I looked at your pics earlier I would have probably done the same as you.

That's funny, I saw your post on DT and put up a similar thread to this there! :D

What did you use to bond the case back together?

[Matt3o]

epoxy glue, no need for reinforcements since I have a very a wide area of contact (basically the whole height). You probably have less points of contact and I'd use some metal plate or wire... but you know better than me

[The_Beast]

Case gluing went pretty well. I'll be gluing/fixing the gap sometime soon

[CPTBadAss]

1) epoxy glue
2) no need for reinforcements since I have a very a wide area of contact

1) What epoxy glue did you use? Could you take a picture or something?
2) Can you clarify what you mean by needing reinforcements?

[fohat.digs]

1) What epoxy glue did you use? Could you take a picture or something?
2) Can you clarify what you mean by needing reinforcements?

About halfway through my guide I showed using JB Weld and you can't see it, but there is a wire embedded in the gray epoxy.

http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=37753.msg722184#msg722184

[CPTBadAss]

You're referring to this picture right fohat.digs? The_Beast and I were talking about this and I was told that JB Weld wouldn't work. Is that the case?

And the wire is there to provide the force necessary to keep the halves together?

[fohat.digs]

Show Image

You're referring to this picture right fohat.digs? The_Beast and I were talking about this and I was told that JB Weld wouldn't work. Is that the case?

And the wire is there to provide the force necessary to keep the halves together?

The wire I was referring to cannot be seen because it is embedded in the gray epoxy. JB Weld works great, but looks ugly unless you paint.

I used large rubber bands one way, and a cable with turnbuckle the other way, to keep everything tight while the epoxy set up.

[CPTBadAss]

What exactly does the embedded wire do? I'm still not understanding

[Thechemist]

What exactly does the embedded wire do? I'm still not understanding

Acts as a support, like a rebar in concrete.

[Matt3o]

1) epoxy glue
2) no need for reinforcements since I have a very a wide area of contact

1) What epoxy glue did you use? Could you take a picture or something?
2) Can you clarify what you mean by needing reinforcements?

1) they are sold in syringes like these



there are dozens of different types, they vary in color and cure time. I always have 2 at hand: one with long cure time (8+ hours), one with fast cure time (2-5 minutes). They are very easy to find. I think I also saw them in tubes actually

2) if the points of contact between the two pieces are few, you need to add some support... like braces

[fohat.digs]

Acts as a support, like a rebar in concrete.

Exactly. There is "tension" (pulling apart) and "compression" (crushing). In the case of my broken case, "tension" is attempting to pull the crack open again.

With epoxy alone, there is only a tiny "bridge" layer of epoxy holding the 2 parts together.

With a piece of wire running perpendicular to the break, it is like having an "anchor" on each side with a strap holding the sides together.

[CPTBadAss]

Thanks for being patient guys. I never linked rebar to this. Makes perfect sense now

[The_Beast]

a little bit more progress made. Check the OP for more info:

[The_Beast]

Finally put it together and typing on it. There is still a bit of work to be done, but it #feelsgood.

I'm not quite used to the layout and am missing the arrow keys. I wish the was a 1x between the 1.5 mods were there so I could to a poker style of arrow, but I'll just write an AHK script to fix any problems I have with the layout

[Sifo]

swiggity swag that's cool King of Bens

[CPTBadAss]

What else do you plan on doing to the board? Painting, re-gluing/epoxying the case...

[The_Beast]

What else do you plan on doing to the board? Painting, re-gluing/epoxying the case...

Yup, I'm going to re-crack the front so there isn't such a big gap, fix the chip out by the backspace key and maying also repair the front chip, then paint gray





Also, here's the AHK script I've been using for arrows.

;; Auto-Reload If Changes Are Made
{
SetTimer,UPDATEDSCRIPT,1000

UPDATEDSCRIPT:
FileGetAttrib,attribs,%A_ScriptFullPath%
IfInString,attribs,A
{
FileSetAttrib,-A,%A_ScriptFullPath%
SplashTextOn,,,Updated script,
Sleep,500
Reload
}
Return
}

Capslock::
Gui, 99:+ToolWindow
Gui, 99:Show, x-1 y-1 +NoActivate, Dummy IJKL to Arrow Keys
Keywait, Capslock
If A_ThisHotkey != Capslock
   Gui, 99:Destroy
else Gui, 99:Show, x-1 y-1 +NoActivate, Dummy IJKL to Arrow Keys +CapsToCancel
return
#IfWinExist, Dummy IJKL to Arrow Keys +CapsToCancel
Capslock::return
CapsLock Up::Gui, 99:Destroy
#IfWinExist, Dummy IJKL to Arrow Keys
w::Up
a::Left
s::Down
d::Right
\::delete
#IfWinExist




If you press and release the caps lock, it locks in the arrow keys. If you hold the caps lock and press the arrow keys, you get arrow keys, but as soon as you release the caps lock, it reverts back to letters. Also, shift + caps enters standard caps lock

[The_Beast]

I've been typing a lot with this board. It's really nice. I kinda like it more than my SSK since it feels a bit different. It could be the bolt mod of the 60% or the fact that it's a 1988 and my SSK is a 1991 and not bolt modded.


Anyways, the one problem I'm having is that I get a "\" when I hit the enter. If I readjust the backplate, I get about a 5% chance of it doing the "\", however, after a few hours of typing, it become a 100% thing and quite annoying. I'll have to mess around a bit with the case or the membrane to fix this rather annoying issue

[fohat.digs]

I feel your pain.

Much of the joy of the bolt-mod is blunted when you keep taking it apart for adjustment, particularly if you are doing interior work where you have to pull all of the keys every time.

Hammers do not always seat exactly right, and minor variations in pressure will do bizarre things. That is one reason why I always keep my bolts loose.

If you shaved the nearest post too far down (eliminating the "crescent" shaped standoff) and then tightened the nearest bolt a bit too snug, then you could have a localized "wave" in the plates causing erratic action. Or the opposite.

The Model M, with the plastic barrel (aka "chimney") plate, can be very sensitive to non-uniform pressures between plates.

[The_Ed]

I always torque down all the bolts as hard as I can without cracking the plastic (more than it already is...). It gives the keys a more crisp feel, and you should never have to adjust them.

[fohat.digs]

I always torque down all the bolts as hard as I can without cracking the plastic (more than it already is...). It gives the keys a more crisp feel, and you should never have to adjust them.

I leave mine as loose as possible to get the crisp feel. I use the socket in my fingers and make them just barely snug.

Tight nuts have seemed to make mine inconsistent in feel and odd in sound. But I have never used a cracked barrel plate, either.

[The_Ed]

My 1390120 was NIB and cracked in half... I had to use the chicklet keys from a broken laptop keyboard as the donor plastic to fix it. Torquing the bolts down as hard as I can gave it the most crisp feel among all the BS boards at the second annual MN GH meetup. The rest just felt wimpy and wrong... Maybe bolt tightness depends on if it is IBM, Lexmark, or Unicomp?

[bazemk1979]

My 1390120 was NIB and cracked in half... I had to use the chicklet keys from a broken laptop keyboard as the donor plastic to fix it. Torquing the bolts down as hard as I can gave it the most crisp feel among all the BS boards at the second annual MN GH meetup. The rest just felt wimpy and wrong... Maybe bolt tightness depends on if it is IBM, Lexmark, or Unicomp?

Show Image

Show Image

The board snapped in half after you did the bolt mod right? I doubt stock board specially that model or any model M even Unicomp would crack in half when being stock. Tightened up the bolts too much?

[The_Ed]

Apparently you didn't read my post...

My 1390120 was NIB and cracked in half...

Which meant that I had to take it apart to repair and bolt-mod it.

EDIT: Less than a third of the rivets remained too besides it being cracked in half. So remember that even though a Model M is NIB on ebay, it may be quite damaged on the inside after all these years.