Post your LightSaver keyboard photos!

[bianco]

More

thank

does anyone have the latest o2d keymapper?
i can't download the latest one in duck's site (02D_KeyMapper_Custom_v1.4.271.exe).
thanks in advance

You can download the latest firmware from here
http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?mid=board_sw&document_srl=100301

thank you!

No problem, if by any chance you have leds installed, could you please tell me how many brightness levels your lightsaver have? You can use led dn and up key to control the brightness. I have asked in this and gb thread, no one answered my question...

i have tried to use this but wasn't able to change the level of the lights.
the led up/down only turns on/off the lights.

although, i might be reverting the older version of the keymapper as the arrow keys doesn't seem to save in the hex file using the latest keymapper.
even though i use the arrow cluster with the question marks, when i change to a different layer and go back to it, it becomes empty.

it might be because the default fn key isn't like a regular fn key. it's actually a toggle to scroll through the layers.
there are different layers and different fn layers on a lightsaver. this caught me really off guard at first.

[I explained this pretty poorly; but know that there IS most likely a reason for your confusion, and it's because it's not entirely intuitive.]

In other news. I have a beautiful Lightsaver V1 that I will picture and post for you guys tomorrow, but I REALLY want to trade it for a v2 in 1800 layout.
 Also if someone could clarify that the PCB on v2 is indeed different.

it's not in the fn key or layer.
it's when i'm trying to map the keys in the layers.
the arrow cluster shows as question marks in the interface instead of arrows.

for the v1, the exact 1800 layout is not possible.
a modification can be... (based on the last pic below):
FN key = left, CTRL key = down, LEFT key = right, MENU key = up


managed to finish the v2 with a mish-mash of keycaps 








with the soon to be retired v1

[Battou62]

More

thank

does anyone have the latest o2d keymapper?
i can't download the latest one in duck's site (02D_KeyMapper_Custom_v1.4.271.exe).
thanks in advance

You can download the latest firmware from here
http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?mid=board_sw&document_srl=100301

thank you!

No problem, if by any chance you have leds installed, could you please tell me how many brightness levels your lightsaver have? You can use led dn and up key to control the brightness. I have asked in this and gb thread, no one answered my question...

i have tried to use this but wasn't able to change the level of the lights.
the led up/down only turns on/off the lights.

although, i might be reverting the older version of the keymapper as the arrow keys doesn't seem to save in the hex file using the latest keymapper.
even though i use the arrow cluster with the question marks, when i change to a different layer and go back to it, it becomes empty.

it might be because the default fn key isn't like a regular fn key. it's actually a toggle to scroll through the layers.
there are different layers and different fn layers on a lightsaver. this caught me really off guard at first.

[I explained this pretty poorly; but know that there IS most likely a reason for your confusion, and it's because it's not entirely intuitive.]

In other news. I have a beautiful Lightsaver V1 that I will picture and post for you guys tomorrow, but I REALLY want to trade it for a v2 in 1800 layout.
 Also if someone could clarify that the PCB on v2 is indeed different.

it's not in the fn key or layer.
it's when i'm trying to map the keys in the layers.
the arrow cluster shows as question marks in the interface instead of arrows.

for the v1, the exact 1800 layout is not possible.
a modification can be... (based on the last pic below):
FN key = left, CTRL key = down, LEFT key = right, MENU key = up


managed to finish the v2 with a mish-mash of keycaps 

Show Image

Show Image

Show Image

Show Image

with the soon to be retired v1

Show Image

That layout is PERFECT :)

[taylordcraig]

Yeah I know what you're talking about in regards to the arrows.
I thought you were having the same problem as me where they only work on one layer.
Next time your arrows stop working, try unplugging and plugging in your board.

#INEEDAVersionTwo
#SomeoneTradeMeWhoDoesntWant1800Layout

[animaliaparadoxa]

So I'm having some trouble mapping the layout I want on this thing. I'm having a problem similar to others where the arrow keys wont map or they disappear from the layout in OD2 after I save to HEX and reopen. I've tried all the recent firmware versions here: http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?mid=board_sw&document_srl=100301 . When I flash the new firmware some of my custom mappings are working but the arrow keys never work. I'm also having trouble changing layers: when I plug it in it's in layer 1 but when I hit the layer change button once it switches to layer 2. If I hit the layer change again (once, twice, as many times as you want) nothing happens. Layer toggle also does nothing. in order to get back to layer one I have to unplug the damn thing. In the original firmware I'm able to change to FN layer and toggle backlit zones but I have the same issue with arrows not mapping. basically everything I custom map works except for the arrow keys. Really frustrating - is anyone else having similar issues with their V2?

[witbliz]

Hi guys, I'm not sure what screws does the ducky blocker use ? anybody able to point me in the right direction to purchase them ?

Thanks for the help

P.S. I live in Malaysia

[Joey Quinn]

Where can I get the acrylic side inserts or do I have to use the .dxf and get them cut?

[digi]

cross-posting my question from the ls2 groupbuy thread:

My LS2 was assembled so I'm not sure which layers are what..or even how to switch layers for that matter. Do you happen to know what the default LED Ctrl / LED Modes & LED Up/Dn keys are? thanks.

[Blackehart]

Pardon the potato!
Waitin on dolch and cyrillic gmk to get here -_-

[Lurch]

this thread is out of control awesome

 

[dorkvader]

Pardon the potato!
Waitin on dolch and cyrillic gmk to get here -_-

Show Image

Show Image

sweet! same layout and switch tops as mine.

Your \| key is upside down though.

[Puddsy]

Pardon the potato!
Waitin on dolch and cyrillic gmk to get here -_-

Show Image

Show Image

sweet! same layout and switch tops as mine.

Your \| key is upside down though.

cannot unsee

[bianco]

Pardon the potato!
Waitin on dolch and cyrillic gmk to get here -_-

Show Image

Show Image

that's nice!
i'm kinda missing the huge 0 in the numpad.
i might desolder my v1 and change to that layout

for now, my v2 in penumbra

[Blackehart]

Pardon the potato!
Waitin on dolch and cyrillic gmk to get here -_-

Show Image

Show Image

sweet! same layout and switch tops as mine.

Your \| key is upside down though.

\

Some choose to flip their space bars, i choose to flip my |\ key

[elton5354]

Looking for Cherry windowed caps lock and num lock to complete my board!  Also need a Cherry "N" key. PM if anyone have an extras....

[rowdy]

Pardon the potato!
Waitin on dolch and cyrillic gmk to get here -_-

Show Image

Show Image

sweet! same layout and switch tops as mine.

Your \| key is upside down though.

\

Some choose to flip their space bars, i choose to flip my |\ key

Mine is that way permanently on Ducky Shine

Ducky did that so the LED, which is towards the top of the keycap, primarily illuminates the \.

[dorkvader]

Here is a shot of mine as it is currently. Running the latest 02d firmware
keycaps are from a das 2 (blank cherry POM) and an imsto dvorak set. I am thinking of putting non blank keycaps over where common commands like copy paste, etc are so I don't get paranoid every time i press ctrl.


My normal KB adornments don't fit on this case

[Flyersfan1]

Here is a shot of mine as it is currently. Running the latest 02d firmware
keycaps are from a das 2 (blank cherry POM) and an imsto dvorak set. I am thinking of putting non blank keycaps over where common commands like copy paste, etc are so I don't get paranoid every time i press ctrl.

Show Image

My normal KB adornments don't fit on this case :(

Awesome layout, Dorkvader.  That's what I would have went with too!  Love the stealth look!

[Sniping]

Soooo many awesome Lightsavers in this thread, and now I finally get to make my contribution:

[Sent]

Is that a red Lightsaver?  More pics!

[Blackehart]

Finally got my cyrillic on!

[tadbitnerdy]

So, here is a question to all of you lightsaver people.  On my Lightsave v1, I assigned the NUM Lock to the top right key.  I want to put an LED in that has a similar function as the Caps lock LED (Num Lock on = LED on, Num Lock off = LED off).  Right now it just blinks.  Any idea how to make this work?

Thanks!

-Tad

[Blackehart]

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I think you can't since that's the Layer indicator.
It either blinks to tell you what layer you are on or you can turn it off.

[tadbitnerdy]

Dang, I was hoping that wouldn't be the case.  How do I turn it off then (other than removing the LED completely)?

Thanks!

-Tad

[Photoelectric]

Dang, I was hoping that wouldn't be the case.  How do I turn it off then (other than removing the LED completely)?

Thanks!

-Tad

See the info in the OP

[tadbitnerdy]

Thank you!  LED is now off.  I really need to build my v2.

-Tad

[taylordcraig]

Hey photo, can you throw a note in programming, that if your arrows or LED functions aren't working in the O2D mapper, [in windows at least] you can change your locale through control panel>region>administrative>change system locale... set it to korean and now the arrow keys and LED functions will all work propperly.

credit goes to stylingreymon.

[bianco]

realized that i didn't post here...
my light saber v2 when i put coffee keys

[digi]

Here is a shot of mine as it is currently. Running the latest 02d firmware
keycaps are from a das 2 (blank cherry POM) and an imsto dvorak set. I am thinking of putting non blank keycaps over where common commands like copy paste, etc are so I don't get paranoid every time i press ctrl.

Show Image

My normal KB adornments don't fit on this case :(

lol @ the i386 chip, love it!

[Photoelectric]

Hey photo, can you throw a note in programming, that if your arrows or LED functions aren't working in the O2D mapper, [in windows at least] you can change your locale through control panel>region>administrative>change system locale... set it to korean and now the arrow keys and LED functions will all work propperly.

credit goes to stylingreymon.

Updated.  Please let me know if anything else that'd be useful is missing.

[Blackehart]

Is it possible to have just one layer set?
For some reason, my LS will randomly change between layers.
Kinda sucks to have keys not work in the middle of raiding ><

[taylordcraig]

Is it possible to have just one layer set?
For some reason, my LS will randomly change between layers.
Kinda sucks to have keys not work in the middle of raiding ><

Quite easily yeah, just make it so there are no layer or fn keys on your first layer.

I saw someone ask about MFN and not sure if they got an answer.
AFAIK MFN stands for multi-function.
If you hit this key and then hold it on the final press, you can access all the layers.
eg If you press the key and then quickly press it a second time, holding it on the second press, you will be on layer two.
If you quickly press it three times, holding it down on the third actuation, you will be on layer three.
It's exactly like a FN key only hitting it more than once lets you choose which layer to access.

@photo: np, I love these lightsavers. they are like my babies. dorkvader is currently swapping the guts from my v1 to a v2.

[Blackehart]

Is it possible to have just one layer set?
For some reason, my LS will randomly change between layers.
Kinda sucks to have keys not work in the middle of raiding ><

Quite easily yeah, just make it so there are no layer or fn keys on your first layer.

I saw someone ask about MFN and not sure if they got an answer.
AFAIK MFN stands for multi-function.
If you hit this key and then hold it on the final press, you can access all the layers.
eg If you press the key and then quickly press it a second time, holding it on the second press, you will be on layer two.
If you quickly press it three times, holding it down on the third actuation, you will be on layer three.
It's exactly like a FN key only hitting it more than once lets you choose which layer to access.

@photo: np, I love these lightsavers. they are like my babies. dorkvader is currently swapping the guts from my v1 to a v2.

So I would still need a 2nd layer to access lighting functions?
I couldn't say, press the MFN and F1 to change mods lighting?
What I'm aiming for is KMAC like led accessibility.
Press a key combo and it toggles lighting modes, but pressing keys by themselves won't send you to another layer.

-Blacke

[taylordcraig]

You could have the lighting functions on fn1 and have a function key somewhere.

I believe FN1 moves your keyboard to functionalayer1,
so if you wanted to only have it do the LED stuff while you hold it down, MFN would be correct.

edit: moving this to pms.

[LechnerDE]

Got my Dolch Set today and tried different combinations on my Lightsaver -  I think I prefer the version without the CMY mods

[bianco]

Got my Dolch Set today and tried different combinations on my Lightsaver -  I think I prefer the version without the CMY mods

Show Image

Show Image

Show Image

that is awesome!
great looking board sir!

[frosty]

Got my Dolch Set today and tried different combinations on my Lightsaver -  I think I prefer the version without the CMY mods

Show Image

Show Image

Show Image

the orange/reddish backlight looks really awesome in the third picture!!

[Karura]

Got my Dolch Set today and tried different combinations on my Lightsaver -  I think I prefer the version without the CMY mods

Show Image

Show Image

Show Image

Lechner, that looks really good! Are those red LEDs?

Have you tried CMYK without the Enter? If you can please snap a photo :P I think it'll look great.

[hwood34]

Got my Dolch Set today and tried different combinations on my Lightsaver -  I think I prefer the version without the CMY mods

Show Image

Show Image

Show Image

puttin the dolch to good use :thumb:

[LechnerDE]

Got my Dolch Set today and tried different combinations on my Lightsaver -  I think I prefer the version without the CMY mods

Show Image

Show Image

Show Image

Lechner, that looks really good! Are those red LEDs?

Have you tried CMYK without the Enter? If you can please snap a photo :P I think it'll look great.

Yes, those are red LEDs.

I think the reason why CMY doesn't really work is the fact that the legends are black. I will try it again once I get the CMY Mod set from Dubsgalore's GB with the white legends  :thumb:

[Joey Quinn]

So my parents were transporting my lightsaver and somehow managed to scratch the case and dent one of the corners  , the scratches aren't deep but aesthetically they bother me. Anyone know if sandblasting would fix this or will re anodizing correct it?

[Sygaldry]

So my parents were transporting my lightsaver and somehow managed to scratch the case and dent one of the corners  , the scratches aren't deep but aesthetically they bother me. Anyone know if sandblasting would fix this or will re anodizing correct it?

Show Image

Show Image

Re-anodizing will ruin the finish. Maybe you can look into how car enthusiasts remove scratches?

[Joey Quinn]

So my parents were transporting my lightsaver and somehow managed to scratch the case and dent one of the corners  , the scratches aren't deep but aesthetically they bother me. Anyone know if sandblasting would fix this or will re anodizing correct it?

Show Image

Show Image

Re-anodizing will ruin the finish. Maybe you can look into how car enthusiasts remove scratches?

The standard way to remove scratches is wet sanding, steel wool, or polishing. All of which would change the finish.   

[Photekq]

Re-anodizing will ruin the finish. Maybe you can look into how car enthusiasts remove scratches?

Err what?

Reanodising will not change the surface finish, it'll just, well, reanodise it. It won't even remove the scratches.

Sandblasting + reanodising would work, but that would change the finish.

[Sygaldry]

Re-anodizing will ruin the finish. Maybe you can look into how car enthusiasts remove scratches?

Err what?

Reanodising will not change the surface finish, it'll just, well, reanodise it. It won't even remove the scratches.

Sandblasting + reanodising would work, but that would change the finish.

Anodizing is a process that converts aluminum to its oxide. The oxide is thicker than the aluminum that is consumed, which means the dimension of the anodized part changes. The amount of change will depend on the anodizing process conditions (temperature, current density, etc.) and alloy. Under nominal Type II anodizing conditions, the rule of thumb is 2/3 in 1/3 out; for example, a coating that is 0.6 mil thick will have consumed 0.4 mil of aluminum. Under hard coat (Type III) anodizing conditions the ratio changes to ½ in ½ out.

Yes the surface will change.

[Photekq]

Anodizing is a process that converts aluminum to its oxide. The oxide is thicker than the aluminum that is consumed, which means the dimension of the anodized part changes. The amount of change will depend on the anodizing process conditions (temperature, current density, etc.) and alloy. Under nominal Type II anodizing conditions, the rule of thumb is 2/3 in 1/3 out; for example, a coating that is 0.6 mil thick will have consumed 0.4 mil of aluminum. Under hard coat (Type III) anodizing conditions the ratio changes to ½ in ½ out.

Yes the surface will change.

I've seen reanodised cases and the actual surface finish remains. Same texture, just different colour anodising.

[Sygaldry]

Anodizing is a process that converts aluminum to its oxide. The oxide is thicker than the aluminum that is consumed, which means the dimension of the anodized part changes. The amount of change will depend on the anodizing process conditions (temperature, current density, etc.) and alloy. Under nominal Type II anodizing conditions, the rule of thumb is 2/3 in 1/3 out; for example, a coating that is 0.6 mil thick will have consumed 0.4 mil of aluminum. Under hard coat (Type III) anodizing conditions the ratio changes to ½ in ½ out.

Yes the surface will change.

I've seen reanodised cases and the actual surface finish remains. Same texture, just different colour anodising.

You can't oxidize an oxide.

What you call "re-anodization" is actually a process in which the anodized coat is removed, probably by abrasive sanding or some corrosive chemical bath to reveal the un-oxidized aluminum underneath, which can then be colored once again through oxidization (anodization). This will change the amount of actual non-oxidized aluminum that remains.

Sure the surface might feel smooth, but the actual amount of metal that will remain is less than what you started out with.

[Photekq]

You can't oxidize an oxide.

What you call "re-anodization" is actually a process in which the anodized coat is removed, probably by abrasive sanding or some corrosive chemical bath to reveal the un-oxidized aluminum underneath, which can then be colored once again through oxidization (anodization). This will change the amount of actual non-oxidized aluminum that remains.

Sure the surface might feel smooth, but the actual amount of metal that will remain is less than what you started out with.

Yes, that's what I mean. The removal of the oxide layer with a chemical bath followed by anodisation.

While it does affect the amount of material, it doesn't change the actual surface finish/texture [at least not very much]. I'm not sure how it would affect a scratch. That's a good question...

[Photoelectric]

Yes, the surface will change after removing the original anodized layer prior to re-anodizing, however you need to remember that the original anodized layer is on the order of microns in thickness.  A quick dip in a special acid bath will almost instantly remove that layer and will very slightly smooth out the surface.  So if you had a grainy sandblasted finish before, the result will be very slightly smoother.  It's really inconsequential when changing a color of a keyboard case.  However in this case the issue is the scratches, which would be fixed only in color but not in texture; they will not fully vanish after reanodizing.  To remove those, the scratched surface needs to be properly refinished prior to reanodizing.  Anodizing will then simply convert the top couple dozen microns of surface into a hardened layer, but will keep the original texture of the surface that it was prior to anodizing.  Hence if you just chemically remove the original anodized layer and then re-anodize it right away, you'll end up with a slightly smoother anodized surface with the scratches still visible as thin indents.

[Joey Quinn]

Yes, the surface will change after removing the original anodized layer prior to re-anodizing, however you need to remember that the original anodized layer is on the order of microns in thickness.  A quick dip in a special acid bath will almost instantly remove that layer and will very slightly smooth out the surface.  So if you had a grainy sandblasted finish before, the result will be very slightly smoother.  It's really inconsequential when changing a color of a keyboard case.  However in this case the issue is the scratches, which would be fixed only in color but not in texture; they will not fully vanish after reanodizing.  To remove those, the scratched surface needs to be properly refinished prior to reanodizing.  Anodizing will then simply convert the top couple dozen microns of surface into a hardened layer, but will keep the original texture of the surface that it was prior to anodizing.  Hence if you just chemically remove the original anodized layer and then re-anodize it right away, you'll end up with a slightly smoother anodized surface with the scratches still visible as thin indents.

Properly refinishing would be sand blasting and then anodizing correct?

[nubbinator]

I believe you'd need to bead blast it to get a nice smooth finish.  I think Photeqk sand then bead blasted his Tek-80.