[GB] 16ga metal ergodox cases -- Shipping R2 recommencing

[tjcaustin]

Don't stress until you get about 20k in.

[witbliz]

Just wanted to say - Thanks AKmalamute for having Round 2 and giving us non-us a chance to own this

[dorkvader]

received mine yesterday! The "one off" 0.5 case was a little lower in quality, but looked fine after I filed / sanded the offending areas. I then sanded the top with some spare 100 grit I found in a drawer for aestheetic appeal. Looks great!

I'm arranging repayment now. Thanks so much!

I'm also getting like 30 M3 nuts to finish up the case

[Latin00032]

received mine yesterday! The "one off" 0.5 case was a little lower in quality, but looked fine after I filed / sanded the offending areas. I then sanded the top with some spare 100 grit I found in a drawer for aestheetic appeal. Looks great!

I'm arranging repayment now. Thanks so much!

I'm also getting like 30 M3 nuts to finish up the case

I hope you take some pictures of the installation process. And the final outcome.

[agodinhost]

please, could you list all of us tha are in R2?
I did signed in the order form but I would like to be sure ...

[AKmalamute]

I've updated post #3, but still waiting since before round one: Tarzan / ShrapneL / Glod (and JD's should be shipping this week. I hope. Seriously I hope so.)

Entered also, for round two are agodinhost, latin00032 & lugoues. I'll clearly need to edit my form to give a place to enter receiving country so I know how much shipping to charge. These things don't quite neatly fit into any of our "flat rate" boxes the postal service provides and I don't mind at all hunting down boxes on my own but it means the charge is strictly by weight and distance traveled.

[jdcarpe]

...JD's should be shipping this week. I hope. Seriously I hope so.

Nice, thank you!

Maybe agodinhost would want me to proxy shipping to him with his other things I have.

[zflamewing]

Good to know.  If the stainless minimal case isn't to pricy I'll probably pick up one.  Kind of scary I could have all the parts to build one and come in a bit cheaper than Mass Drop and likely see it all sooner than later...lol

[agodinhost]

Maybe agodinhost would want me to proxy shipping to him with his other things I have.

Yes Sir!!
If you don't mind ...
 

There is any chance to cut any filler material for the pcb bottom and the space between the plate and the pcb guys?
Anything like silicone, rubber or foam ...
The thing is that I hate this spaces - it is a black hole of dust and dirty stuff. I assembled one ergodox these last days using Moz acrylic case (8 layers, 18mm high) and it was a PITA to cut by hand some rubber sheet to fill in these gaps.

[AKmalamute]

Maybe agodinhost would want me to proxy shipping to him with his other things I have.

Yes Sir!!
If you don't mind ...
 

Duly noted. Was going to ask about that address entry before I invoiced anybody but JD has explained it. N/P and I hope it will be done and to him before May is out. But this project manager ... </rolls eyes>

[yuiop]

Will the prices change dramatically from what it says on the order form?  I'm assuming those prices don't include spacer layers?
Also how many spacer layers do we need for a minimalist case?  Thanks in advance.

[AKmalamute]

Will the prices change dramatically from what it says on the order form?  I'm assuming those prices don't include spacer layers?
Also how many spacer layers do we need for a minimalist case?  Thanks in advance.

Currently the order form has guesstimates that don't include ANY shipping values. I *think* the space kit (seven pieces for each hand) will run about $20 in aluminum but we'll find out hopefully tomorrow. Anyway no that's separate also.

As to how many you'll need, I think you need to visualize what you're trying to do with them. My vision for the minimalist would have used I think two, (or three?) between PCB and bottom piece. You may want another two to fit between the PCB and the switch plate for dust resistance and torsional strength.

 Myself I'm still toying with the idea of buying silicone sheets and cutting it to shape with a razor, but I've also ordered the spacer kit in SS so I guess I'm going that route for now.

[agodinhost]

My vision for the minimalist would have used I think two, (or three?) between PCB and bottom piece. You may want another two to fit between the PCB and the switch plate for dust resistance and torsional strength.

I like this idea.
+1

Myself I'm still toying with the idea of buying silicone sheets and cutting it to shape with a razor, but I've also ordered the spacer kit in SS so I guess I'm going that route for now.

hmmm, I did cuted it too but I forgot to reduce the hole sizes to squeeze the switches in. Would be better, IMHO, to use one special cut to better fit the switches taking into consideration the elasticity of the selected material (otherwise we will ending up with gaps into this sheet and the dammed dust will enter anyway).

[AKmalamute]

So, here's today's update: the quote isn't done, but he says he will have it by end-of-today, so if that happens, I can at least open R2 by the weekend. He sounded pretty sure, but he didn't blink at the next thing, either, which surprised me a little: "The already-ordered spacers?" 'They'll be in Tuesday.' So no pictures this weekend of what the completed case looks like because of delays I wasn't expecting.

Ah, well. I suppose this is why this shop is cheaper. Quality worksmanship but not so much quality in businessmanship; everything is a week late.

 More when I know about it.

[duq]

Yo AK, once the final prices are in expect an order from me.

[Latin00032]

I hope I get in round 2.

[tER299]

Will there be an anodized version of the aluminum case?

[AKmalamute]

Will there be an anodized version of the aluminum case?

Not by me. I'm frustrated enough dealing with one company's supply chain.

Anodizing is, I'm told, a fairly easy process for shops that provide it -- ask around I guess, and get the aluminum to the shop of your choice when it comes in.

Edit Friday night 5/2: no update. I'm frustrated and sorry for you guys, but recall that I am dealing with this particular shop not because the prices are great ... but because they've been the most responsive metalworking shop I've talked to, and that assessment remains true I'm afraid.

[Lugoues]

My vision for the minimalist would have used I think two, (or three?) between PCB and bottom piece. You may want another two to fit between the PCB and the switch plate for dust resistance and torsional strength.

I like this idea.
+1

+2!
Top, bottom, and some between the pcb and sheets, or see how it looks keeping the plexi there, who knows. Sounds awesome! Let me know if I need to update the order form for R2, but more than happy to buy a full set if that is what is required.

[oystein.krog]

Here is my current ergodox with this case:

https://plus.google.com/113252364984901542714/posts/ge88Ry9HH8G

[yuiop]

That looks great! Thanks for sharing the pic.
What are you using as standoffs?  M3 nuts?

[Latin00032]

When round 2 begins, is there a way to get an extra top layer for both hands?

[AKmalamute]

When round 2 begins, is there a way to get an extra top layer for both hands?

No promises, but I'll see what I can do. I can't move forward though until I get those quotes in, which should reveal something about the internal pricing structure.

Thank you, oystein.krog for the album -- I'm waiting on some switches and I still haven't connected the two halves with anything so I have no keyboard to take pictures of.

[oystein.krog]

Something I've noticed, the aluminium gets scratched very easily.
I am contemplating treating the top layer in some way... powdercoating or electrolyzing I guess?
Does anyone have experience with that? What is most durable?
Alternatively I might use an acrylic top layer, I really quite like the white color of the case from czarek that I used previously.

[zflamewing]

Someone had pics of a skeletonized look with smoky acrylic top plates that looked stunning imho.

[AKmalamute]

Something I've noticed, the aluminium gets scratched very easily.
I am contemplating treating the top layer in some way... powdercoating or electrolyzing I guess? [...]

No experience, but I'm giving serious consideration to treating my SS case with spray-on bedliner. It would give a unique texture and I'd probably like the look. Not sold on that idea 100% so bare metal sits waiting for me to buy keyswitches.

Oh! Small update! I spoke with the manager who (again) said he'd get the quote to me by the end of the day, and he thinks that the spacers, that will complete round 1, were cut last night but-hes-not-sure-he-will-check-and-get-back-with-me.

 So not really an update as I haven't seen anything but I'm getting just a little excited knowing it might be moving forward.

EDIT May 9th I've spoken to the manager. Again. Still no quote, but not only has he been sick it's been going around the office/floor so everything's behind and ... they broke the laser. Yes, again. Turns out it's a 6kW thing that uses a $5K Opal head as a concentrator, and they broke three of them last night on the job RIGHT BEFORE MINE (referring to JD's spacer to complete his and The_Chemist's order)

I've emphasized that I want the quote done for the rest of you all, and he thinks he can get the laser online tomorrow, resulting in Monday cutting and Tuesday for DA sanding, or something close to that.

[oystein.krog]

Something I just noticed; the stabilizer mount holes (for the thumb keys) on all my plates all just a little bit too small on one side.
This means that when you install the black cherry stabilizer mounts they are squeezed together too much, which in turn means that the white key inserts do not slide smoothly and the keys become completely stuck.
I'll be able to fix this easily just by removing some material, but it might be worth trying to fix for round two.

[dorkvader]

interesting. I used cherry platemounted stabs with no issue.

Also, I figured out the perfect size standoff spacer to use.

I got a few sets of these and they're perfect. Looks like an epsilon now
http://www.ebay.com/itm/360878496378?

[SpAmRaY]

Something I just noticed; the stabilizer mount holes (for the thumb keys) on all my plates all just a little bit too small on one side.
This means that when you install the black cherry stabilizer mounts they are squeezed together too much, which in turn means that the white key inserts do not slide smoothly and the keys become completely stuck.
I'll be able to fix this easily just by removing some material, but it might be worth trying to fix for round two.

Sounds like you are describing costar stabilizers not cherry stabs.

[yuiop]

Something I just noticed; the stabilizer mount holes (for the thumb keys) on all my plates all just a little bit too small on one side.
This means that when you install the black cherry stabilizer mounts they are squeezed together too much, which in turn means that the white key inserts do not slide smoothly and the keys become completely stuck.
I'll be able to fix this easily just by removing some material, but it might be worth trying to fix for round two.

Sounds like you are describing costar stabilizers not cherry stabs.

Yeah I was so confused then realized he's probably talking about costar stab.

My beast poker plate had the same issue with stabs.  Neither costar or cherry pcb/plate stabs would fit.  I ended up filing down the corners slightly and used cherry pcb stabs.

[yuiop]

interesting. I used cherry platemounted stabs with no issue.

Also, I figured out the perfect size standoff spacer to use.

I got a few sets of these and they're perfect. Looks like an epsilon now
http://www.ebay.com/itm/360878496378?

Thanks for the link.  I might get a few sets as well.
Do you have a pic you can share by any chance?

[oystein.krog]

Something I just noticed; the stabilizer mount holes (for the thumb keys) on all my plates all just a little bit too small on one side.
This means that when you install the black cherry stabilizer mounts they are squeezed together too much, which in turn means that the white key inserts do not slide smoothly and the keys become completely stuck.
I'll be able to fix this easily just by removing some material, but it might be worth trying to fix for round two.

Sounds like you are describing costar stabilizers not cherry stabs.

Yeah I was so confused then realized he's probably talking about costar stab.

My beast poker plate had the same issue with stabs.  Neither costar or cherry pcb/plate stabs would fit.  I ended up filing down the corners slightly and used cherry pcb stabs.

Ah ok, I am indeed trying to use costar stabilizers since they were the only ones I was able to find.
I've not yet done any modifications to the plate... what would the best option for stabilizers be?

[Glod]

stabs are totally unnecessary on the ergodox, just sayin....

[agodinhost]

stabs are totally unnecessary on the ergodox, just sayin....

yup, I Never used it too.

[yuiop]

Something I just noticed; the stabilizer mount holes (for the thumb keys) on all my plates all just a little bit too small on one side.
This means that when you install the black cherry stabilizer mounts they are squeezed together too much, which in turn means that the white key inserts do not slide smoothly and the keys become completely stuck.
I'll be able to fix this easily just by removing some material, but it might be worth trying to fix for round two.

Sounds like you are describing costar stabilizers not cherry stabs.

Yeah I was so confused then realized he's probably talking about costar stab.

My beast poker plate had the same issue with stabs.  Neither costar or cherry pcb/plate stabs would fit.  I ended up filing down the corners slightly and used cherry pcb stabs.

Ah ok, I am indeed trying to use costar stabilizers since they were the only ones I was able to find.
I've not yet done any modifications to the plate... what would the best option for stabilizers be?

You might want to find out exactly what's causing the keys to get stuck.  With costar stabs, it's usually because plate is too thick and the stab clips are not seated properly.

http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=36907.msg898724#msg898724

If Cherry stabs (pcb or plate mounted) fit well you can use those instead of costars.  I personally don't like costar stabs so I'd probably use Cherry stabs regardless.

[yuiop]

stabs are totally unnecessary on the ergodox, just sayin....

Totally unnecessary?  I wouldn't go that far.  It may work fine without stab but they're x2 keys.  I'd personally use stabs as long as the plate/pcb allows them to be installed.

[dorkvader]

stabs are totally unnecessary on the ergodox, just sayin....

yup, I Never used it too.

I didn't need when typing, but I find it much easier to game with stabilizers.
---

I will take some pictures of mine. I really like the look.

[agodinhost]

Do you have any news AKmalamute?
I'm kinda eager to see it happening ...
and thank you for your patience and time my friend!
 

[AKmalamute]

Unfortunately I have no news. I've called / emailed about three times since I updated my last post last week, and have heard exactly nothing. This is not unusual, but I'm going to start the process of shopping around, seeing if there's another shop that answers emails and has a laser.

I'm sorry guys. Making a full, correct, and useful quote sheet should be the project manager's job. I don't know why its taking this long.

[agodinhost]

Take a look into this link here.
I think it can be one alternative, just in case if your vendor burst our bubble.

[dorkvader]

got the pictures up. I recommend sanding the plates a little with rough sandpaper before installation.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/dork_vader/sets/72157644268864709/

[dorkvader]

got the pictures up. I recommend sanding the plates a little with rough sandpaper before installation.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/dork_vader/sets/72157644268864709/

[agodinhost]

I'm planning to paint mine with black epoxy spray ...
aweesome!

[yuiop]

got the pictures up. I recommend sanding the plates a little with rough sandpaper before installation.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/dork_vader/sets/72157644268864709/

Thanks for the pics.  Looks great!

I personally don't like the internal components exposed so I'm thinking of doing something like
top layer - m3 nut - plate - pcb - 8mm spacer - bottom layer

[agodinhost]

I personally don't like the internal components exposed so I'm thinking of doing something like
top layer - m3 nut - plate - pcb - 8mm spacer - bottom layer

Same here. I'm planning to buy one cork rubber sheet and cut to use it as spacer.

[AKmalamute]

Still no quote, and I've sent emails to about three other local shops.

But, I did speak to a reasonable-sounding guy who said he could get a pretty full set of quotes by the end of today (that is, both full hand, and classic, both full kits, but in both metals) -- only problem is that shop doesn't have a laser anymore.

How do you guys feel about waterjet?

I suppose the costs could be offset by using a thicker metal, but that would defeat my goal of a keyswitch layer exactly as thick as Cherry called for. Of course, I've got my own case so this is for you guys.

 For those put off by the costs of waterjet cutting I really am trying to make lasercutting happen, I'm just getting impatient and calling the competition -- only to be ignored by them so maybe that's the deal with this industry.

Dorkvader: thanks for the pictures! and yes, it looks good.

Edit: Well! Just got an email from a 'nearby' shop that they will respond to my inquiry
Okay, short story: I looked in the yellow pages for local shops, found one with an actual web page that says they focus on smaller, more personal machining -- call them up, he says no laser but if he were to have something cut, he'd cross the state line and go to this other shop. Call them up (hours ago) and say hey I've submitted to your web page can you acknowledge you've received it?
...that's the shop that just wrote to say they'd help me out. Way cool, as it almost comes with a recommendation.

[agodinhost]

Waterjet is okay - but I think it would be really expensive.

3 or 4 months ago I did a local search for local stores to cut this very same ergodox case and most of my emails were not answered. I think I sent more than 30 emails and only 3 answered back, two with disgusting prices and one complaining about the file format. It seems that they don't like small runs at all ...

I'm trying to get a quote from QWERTim but he didn't answered with values yet.

[jdcarpe]

Yes, metal shops don't like small jobs, especially one-offs. Most won't even bother to call or write you back, and the ones that do will quote you a ridiculous price.

[eviltobz]

...
I suppose the costs could be offset by using a thicker metal, but that would defeat my goal of a keyswitch layer exactly as thick as Cherry called for. Of course, I've got my own case so this is for you guys.
...

dunno about everyone else, but getting a decent plate cut would be the thing that would most likely get me to join in a second round buy. i do have some intentions for a custom wooden case (which will come after i've worked out how to hook a shift register in to the LED pins and drive an LCD display from it, so i have some work to do first) but a decent plate would be nicely re-usable when the time comes, so i'd not feel that getting one of these cases as a temporary measure was a waste.

[AKmalamute]

Well, that didn't turn out quite like I expected.

I got the quote in from the Portland shop that has a laser and promised to get back to me Friday -- They have, and it's three times the cost of the local shop I dealt with for round 1.

But, if you're in a hurry, I have a contact that can get you a classic case in aluminum for $102 shipped ... Or the full-hand for $107 (stainless costs $107 / $120)

 I'll update this when / if I get the quote from the waterjet place. In the meantime, I guess I should go back to pestering the shop manager of the local shop I've dealt with before.