Author Topic: nuclearsandwich's build log - Duck Viper 59-key complete  (Read 10817 times)

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Offline nuclearsandwich

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nuclearsandwich's build log - Duck Viper 59-key complete
« on: Fri, 25 July 2014, 03:02:42 »
Hey all, I make stuff, most of what I've started with are keyboards assembled from kits but I'm steadily graduating on to other projects. As I do, I'm documenting them here.

I've built an Ergodox from the Massdrop kit last October (2013) , which was my first foray into surface mount soldering, and since then a few CMoyBB from the JDS Labs kits and a few Duck Keypads. I've also recently hand-wired an Atreus keyboard and tore down a Rosewill RK-6000.

The canonical home for these logs is https://github.com/nuclearsandwich/buildlogs so if for whatever reason you're wanting more content you can always check out the repository for the most up-to-date version of the content here.

Most recent build
Duck Viper 59-key (on GitHub)

Completed builds
Orion 88-key (on GitHub)
Duck Viper 59-key (on GitHub)

Upcoming builds
  • Zenith ZKB-2R Refurbish and Restoration
  • Volumio Pi Players
  • Leading Edge DC-2014 Refurbish and Restoration
  • Apple M0110 Hand Wire Restomod
  • MC HCK assembly
  • Duck Lightsaver
« Last Edit: Wed, 29 October 2014, 18:25:43 by nuclearsandwich »

Offline nuclearsandwich

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Re: nuclearsandwich's build log - Orion 88-key in progress
« Reply #1 on: Fri, 25 July 2014, 03:08:32 »
Orion 88-key in progress

I received this keyboard waayy back in April or May, just as finals was ramping up. I also wasn't sure what switches I wanted in it and eventually decided on kryox lubricated clears. After some short testing of the springs I had available, I disassembled 88 clear switches and re-assembled them lubricated with very thick krytox on the slider and high viscosity oil on the stems and springs. Each switch then had SIP sockets placed in it for solderless LED swapping. The SIP sockets are just a little too short to comfortably fit the Orion's through holes. I'll have to see about changing my source when I'm out of these.

👷 WIP 🚧

  • ✓ Parts received
  • ✓ Switches prepared
  • ✓ Stabilizers modified
  • ✓ Stabilizers installed
  • ✓ Switches installed
  • ✓ Switches soldered
  • ✓ LEDs installed
  • ✓ Firmware and layout flashed and tested
  • ✓ Case assembled
  • ✓ Keycaps placed


The Specs


    Silver annodized aluminum case
    88 Key layout, 1.25 1.25 1.25 6.25 1.25 1.25 1.25 1.25 bottom row, short right shift + 1x fn key.
    Standard QWERTY, fully programmable with LED and hardware macros
    Cherry MX Clear, 70g Korean-made springs, lubricated, SIP socket inserts for LEDs
    Cherry Stabilizers, clip-modded and lubricated
    Drawer liner for sound dampening.

Lubricating switches.


This is dull work. Granted this was my first time lubricating switches but it took me around 35 minutes to do ten at a time. I passed the time by watching The Adventures of Pete and Pete and Clarissa Explains it All. I can see why heavy builders like the switch lubing stations and I think I'm gonna need to get one.

To lubricate the switches, I split the stems and bases into one tupperware, and the switch tops (and old springs but they're not terribly important) into another. I then set up a little assembly line of ten switches at a time.



  • Apply oil to the switch base.
  • Apply a small amount of Krytox to the sides of the switch base that contact the slider.
  • Apply oil to the spring inside, around and at the two ends, then set the spring in the base.
  • Place SIP sockets.
  • Apply Oil to slider stem.
  • Apply a small amount of Krytox to the two sides of the slider that will touch the base.
  • Place the slider on the spring and base.
  • Place the top on the switch and shut it.
  • Insert an LED into the SIP sockets. (Optional but useful for holding the sockets in place while soldering later.)



To do the above for ten loose switches took about 35 minutes. I also think I need to be more generous with the Krytox as the amount purchased was intended to do a fullsize keyboard and I had just under half left when I finished 88 switches. Another thing that will be really helpful is getting a better quality fine tip brush for the oil. The extra brush that came with some Krytox worked well enough but it'll be easier to lubricate the inside of the stem barrel with a brush that doesn't fray after 30 minutes' use.



Assembling the PCB

SMD soldering and microcontroller flashing are all done by the factory for this board so all I needed to do was solder in the switches with LEDs. Sadly, I screwed even that up.



I actually put this keyboard together without soldering using tactile greys and brought it to KeyCon West. I was fairly certain it would be the only Orion and wanted to at least show off Duck's design and solid construction relative to the KMAC and 456GT that would be there. Sadly, in my haste to build the keyboard once my switches were finally ready, I forgot to remove and clip-mod the stabilizers. Luckily I'd only done the four corners and the Backspace, so desoldering isn't a huge undertaking. After being unable to effectively free the switches using my soldapult, I am however, shelving the project pending the delivery of my Hakko 808 desoldering gun which I have ordered in anticipation of my next projects which are all refurbishments of vintage keyboards.



Putting it in its case

Before assembly I took some time to clean flux from the back of the PCB using a bit of rubbing alcohol.



Case assembly was all but effortless.  The plate is fixed to the top, lighter, half of the case and is mounted in ten places. Then the bottom case is mounted to the top case using hex bolts. All the hardware came with the kit, as well as a few spares. I neglected to ID the fasteners themselves. I'll make an effort to do so for future builds.

The only assembly-time modification I made was to place some drawer liner in the bottom case of the Orion. The thing is so solid I'm not sure if it makes any difference. But after it dulled the resonating in my old Zenith it's become standard procedure for me. One caveat when lining Duck's customs is that you need to make sure the underlighting LEDs remain uncovered. I did this just by cutting a ring out around each one.

Once it all came together, I spent a few minutes swapping LEDs around to match the Space Cadet (Deskthority Round 4 SPH) with warm white on the grey alphanumerics and blue on the modifiers.

Before assembly I took some time to clean flux from the back of the PCB using a bit of rubbing alcohol.



I still haven't managed to take a photo that really captures the backlighting. This cell phone picture is as good as it gets:



This was my at-home driver for several weeks until my father's keyboard died and I did a bit of shuffling. Now my brother uses it. I need to liberate it from him.





Photo Album

https://www.dropbox.com/sc/kof3wk6grzxvwqa/AAATMVg9Wd3UK6yHafjt-7A4a
« Last Edit: Thu, 23 October 2014, 16:16:31 by nuclearsandwich »

Offline JaccoW

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Re: nuclearsandwich's build log - Orion 88-key in progress
« Reply #2 on: Sat, 26 July 2014, 09:36:08 »
I like that idea of a short right shift. :)
I'll be following this build. :thumb:
|||Daily driver: Duck Orion TKL
|||My other keyboards :
More
|||The Original|Home|Work|Numpad|Play|Endgame|Keycaps
x
|Déck Legend Frost|Keycool 87 LE|Leopold FC660M|FC 210TP|Raptor K1 Gaming|Duck Orion TKL|My keycaps & sets
|Pics|Pics|Pics|Pics|Pics|Pics

|||Want to know what Keycap stores there are? Check out my Keyboard Pearltree and my (FS/FT/WTB) thread

Offline epzy

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Re: nuclearsandwich's build log - Orion 88-key in progress
« Reply #3 on: Sat, 26 July 2014, 09:41:01 »
Good luck! '^'
FaceW ~ Duck Viper ~ Kishsaver ~ HHKB Pro 2 Cherry G81-3000SAU ~ Filco Majestouch 2 ~ GON NS NerD 60 HHKB ~ 360 Corsa (jk skam) ~ KMAC Happy (jk skam) ~ JD40 (jk skam)

Offline Heezy

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Re: nuclearsandwich's build log - Orion 88-key in progress
« Reply #4 on: Sat, 26 July 2014, 19:54:54 »
Lots of white hair...

Rig - i3 6300, 240GB SSD, 500GB SSD, Gigabyte H170N Wifi, 16GB DDR4, Zotac 1060 Mini, 650w SuperFlower
Monitor - HKC144hz Mouse/Mousepad/Keyboard - Zowie EC1A - Zowie GS-R - Zowie Camade - Filco TKL MX Pink

Offline nuclearsandwich

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Re: nuclearsandwich's build log - Orion 88-key in progress
« Reply #5 on: Sat, 26 July 2014, 21:44:20 »
Lots of white hair...

Yeah... I have a cat who is constantly up in my ****.

Offline Zekromtor

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Re: nuclearsandwich's build log - Orion 88-key in progress
« Reply #6 on: Sat, 26 July 2014, 22:41:55 »
The obligatory tupperwares full of switch parts. I find it's best to have some mediocre TV programming going on in the background when doing that kinda mind numbing stuff.

Offline nuclearsandwich

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Re: nuclearsandwich's build log - Orion 88-key in progress
« Reply #7 on: Sat, 26 July 2014, 22:45:00 »
The obligatory tupperwares full of switch parts. I find it's best to have some mediocre TV programming going on in the background when doing that kinda mind numbing stuff.

I watched old Nickelodeon shows from my childhood. Clarissa Explains It All is still as great today as it was in the 1990s.

Offline infiniti

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Re: nuclearsandwich's build log - Orion 88-key in progress
« Reply #8 on: Sun, 27 July 2014, 08:29:53 »
Looking forward to your progress sir! :thumb:

Offline nuclearsandwich

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Re: nuclearsandwich's build log - Orion 88-key in progress
« Reply #9 on: Tue, 21 October 2014, 12:27:43 »
The Orion's been together for aaaages but I only finished writing up the process this morning while procrastinating against a physics exam.

The full log is readable on GitHub and I'll update this post after class.

Next up: A Duck Viper! Should I go clicky white or linear black? I haven't decided yet.

Offline JaccoW

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Re: nuclearsandwich's build log - Orion 88-key in progress
« Reply #10 on: Tue, 21 October 2014, 14:49:32 »
WOOOHOOO!
|||Daily driver: Duck Orion TKL
|||My other keyboards :
More
|||The Original|Home|Work|Numpad|Play|Endgame|Keycaps
x
|Déck Legend Frost|Keycool 87 LE|Leopold FC660M|FC 210TP|Raptor K1 Gaming|Duck Orion TKL|My keycaps & sets
|Pics|Pics|Pics|Pics|Pics|Pics

|||Want to know what Keycap stores there are? Check out my Keyboard Pearltree and my (FS/FT/WTB) thread

Offline CPTBadAss

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Re: nuclearsandwich's build log - Orion 88-key in progress
« Reply #11 on: Tue, 21 October 2014, 14:50:56 »
Go for both. Swap the MX Black springs the housing with MX White stems.

Offline nuclearsandwich

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Re: nuclearsandwich's build log - Orion 88-key in progress
« Reply #12 on: Tue, 21 October 2014, 14:54:25 »
Go for both. Swap the MX Black springs the housing with MX White stems.

Accoplishing what precisely? They're the same weight?

Offline CPTBadAss

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Re: nuclearsandwich's build log - Orion 88-key in progress
« Reply #13 on: Tue, 21 October 2014, 14:57:22 »
They're not the same. If you want to use numbers, MX Blacks actuate at 60 cN while MX Whites actuate at 80 cN. In my personal testing, I found these to be very pleasant to type on. A little lighter than stock MX Whites while retaining the proper clickiness of the MX White switch.

Offline nuclearsandwich

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Re: nuclearsandwich's build log - Orion 88-key in progress
« Reply #14 on: Tue, 21 October 2014, 15:00:13 »
They're not the same. If you want to use numbers, MX Blacks actuate at 60 cN while MX Whites actuate at 80 cN. In my personal testing, I found these to be very pleasant to type on. A little lighter than stock MX Whites while retaining the proper clickiness of the MX White switch.

Interesting. I hadn't realized that. I will make some test switches.

Offline dorkvader

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Re: nuclearsandwich's build log - Orion 88-key in progress
« Reply #15 on: Tue, 21 October 2014, 15:06:08 »
They're not the same. If you want to use numbers, MX Blacks actuate at 60 cN while MX Whites actuate at 80 cN. In my personal testing, I found these to be very pleasant to type on. A little lighter than stock MX Whites while retaining the proper clickiness of the MX White switch.

Interesting. I hadn't realized that. I will make some test switches.

White springs are the same as green springs.

Offline nuclearsandwich

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Re: nuclearsandwich's build log - Orion 88-key in progress
« Reply #16 on: Wed, 22 October 2014, 12:49:29 »
They're not the same. If you want to use numbers, MX Blacks actuate at 60 cN while MX Whites actuate at 80 cN. In my personal testing, I found these to be very pleasant to type on. A little lighter than stock MX Whites while retaining the proper clickiness of the MX White switch.

Interesting. I hadn't realized that. I will make some test switches.

White springs are the same as green springs.

The full build log is still forthcoming. I swapped springs in a few black/white switches and tried them out. The difference to my heavy hands wasn't sufficient to make swapping out springs worthwhile. I kept the stock white springs but did add long SIP sockets to each one for easy LED swap.

Sadly I couldn't type this on the Viper because I tested it caseless when I finished soldering at 3AM and didn't test it after mounting it. the A-row is shorting and it just spams asdfghasdfgh ad nauseum. I have all the hardware I need to fix it at work *except* my keypuller. Also I just realized I gave my coworker an MKC keypuller when he got his Topre HiPro. *swipe*

Offline Worth

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Re: nuclearsandwich's build log - Orion 88-key in progress
« Reply #17 on: Wed, 22 October 2014, 16:05:16 »
Did you have the mounting plate cut, did you make it yourself, or did you buy it somewhere? Same question for the pcb

Offline nuclearsandwich

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Re: nuclearsandwich's build log - Orion 88-key in progress
« Reply #18 on: Wed, 22 October 2014, 17:40:23 »
Did you have the mounting plate cut, did you make it yourself, or did you buy it somewhere? Same question for the pcb

Hi Worth,

Which keyboard are you referring to? The Orion? It came with PCB, plate, case, and hardware from this Group buy.

Offline nuclearsandwich

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Re: nuclearsandwich's build log - Orion 88-key in progress
« Reply #19 on: Wed, 22 October 2014, 17:41:38 »
They're not the same. If you want to use numbers, MX Blacks actuate at 60 cN while MX Whites actuate at 80 cN. In my personal testing, I found these to be very pleasant to type on. A little lighter than stock MX Whites while retaining the proper clickiness of the MX White switch.

Interesting. I hadn't realized that. I will make some test switches.

White springs are the same as green springs.

The full build log is still forthcoming. I swapped springs in a few black/white switches and tried them out. The difference to my heavy hands wasn't sufficient to make swapping out springs worthwhile. I kept the stock white springs but did add long SIP sockets to each one for easy LED swap.

Sadly I couldn't type this on the Viper because I tested it caseless when I finished soldering at 3AM and didn't test it after mounting it. the A-row is shorting and it just spams asdfghasdfgh ad nauseum. I have all the hardware I need to fix it at work *except* my keypuller. Also I just realized I gave my coworker an MKC keypuller when he got his Topre HiPro. *swipe*

It took longer to find and the thin thread of solder joining one of the SMD diodes to an LED lead than it did to actually fix it. It's aliiiiiiive!

Offline CPTBadAss

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Re: nuclearsandwich's build log - Orion 88-key in progress
« Reply #20 on: Wed, 22 October 2014, 17:44:00 »
Congrats!!! Did you type that message with your Orion?

Offline nuclearsandwich

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Re: nuclearsandwich's build log - Orion 88-key in progress
« Reply #21 on: Wed, 22 October 2014, 17:47:17 »
Congrats!!! Did you type that message with your Orion?

Nope, with the newly assembled Viper. The Orion got co-opted by my brother after my dad stole his ducky shine. He eats at his computer though so it can't stay.

Offline nuclearsandwich

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Re: nuclearsandwich's build log - Orion 88-key in progress
« Reply #22 on: Thu, 23 October 2014, 16:26:00 »
Updated the Orion post here on GH. Does anyone know how to ID fasteners? It's something I want to start doing with my build logs (since I lose them a lot) but I don't know any good resources for doing so.

Offline feizor

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Re: nuclearsandwich's build log - Orion 88-key in progress
« Reply #23 on: Thu, 23 October 2014, 18:17:31 »
Is there much difference in using oil on the slider stem rather than krytox?

Offline nuclearsandwich

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Re: nuclearsandwich's build log - Orion 88-key in progress
« Reply #24 on: Thu, 23 October 2014, 19:07:23 »
Is there much difference in using oil on the slider stem rather than krytox?

I didn't find lubricating the slider added much to the experience compared to clipping them. I've not tried krytox on the sliders. If I do lube them in the future I'll probably go with superlube or something.

Offline feizor

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Re: nuclearsandwich's build log - Orion 88-key in progress
« Reply #25 on: Fri, 24 October 2014, 15:35:43 »
Is there much difference in using oil on the slider stem rather than krytox?

I didn't find lubricating the slider added much to the experience compared to clipping them. I've not tried krytox on the sliders. If I do lube them in the future I'll probably go with superlube or something.

Clipping the slider? We are talking about the switch stem slider right?

Offline nuclearsandwich

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Re: nuclearsandwich's build log - Orion 88-key in progress
« Reply #26 on: Fri, 24 October 2014, 16:14:36 »
Is there much difference in using oil on the slider stem rather than krytox?

I didn't find lubricating the slider added much to the experience compared to clipping them. I've not tried krytox on the sliders. If I do lube them in the future I'll probably go with superlube or something.

Clipping the slider? We are talking about the switch stem slider right?

You were. But I'm not good enough at reading comprehension to do so. I have basically the same feelings about the spring / slider contacts as I do about the stabilizers. I don't think it makes sense to put krytox there compared to a high viscosity oil or silicone grease. My next modern build is going to feature lubed black switches, where maybe, maayyybe lubricating the barrel will be noticeable enough to be worth doing with krytox. I'll have to make a few test switches to evaluate it. I really do enjoy those lubricated clears.

Offline OverKill

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Re: nuclearsandwich's build log - Orion 88-key in progress
« Reply #27 on: Fri, 24 October 2014, 17:49:45 »
Just a heads up, they sell flux remover.. i think it is like 10 bucks a can or something.. it is aerosol and you just spray it on the pcb (components and all) and the flux comes right off. It is super handy.

found the link:

http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/TECHSPRAY-1621-10S-/20-2105

Offline nuclearsandwich

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Re: nuclearsandwich's build log - Orion 88-key in progress
« Reply #28 on: Fri, 24 October 2014, 18:00:29 »
Just a heads up, they sell flux remover.. i think it is like 10 bucks a can or something.. it is aerosol and you just spray it on the pcb (components and all) and the flux comes right off. It is super handy.

found the link:

http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/TECHSPRAY-1621-10S-/20-2105

Oh cool. I'm about to switch to a water soluble flux since I experienced my very first dentrite on my Viper build in spite of a fairly thorough cleaning. The flux and solder I have is all "good ****" as it was my father's from the 1970s.

Offline nuclearsandwich

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Re: nuclearsandwich's build log - Orion 88-key in progress
« Reply #29 on: Wed, 29 October 2014, 18:24:31 »
Duck Viper 59-key

This is the second Duck keyboard I've had the pleasure to assemble and the first with a tray style case. I've taken apart an Duck Mini v2 in order to eventually convert it to Alps when I get a set of adequate keycaps. I might also convert the Viper someday, but I need to get a keycap set that supports HHKB layout for Alps and the odds of that don't thrill me.



The Specs

* Blue-grey annodized aluminum case
* 59 Key layout, 1 1.5 7 1.5 1 bottom row
* Standard QWERTY, fully programmable with LED and hardware macros
* Cherry MX White, stock springs, SIP socket inserts for LEDs
* Cherry Stabilizers, clip-modded
* Drawer liner for sound dampening

Switch Choices

Up until the day I decided to build this, I had no clear idea what switches I wanted in it. Of the MX switches, I'm currently most intrigued by jailhouse-modded blues and lubed blacks. However, my attempts at jailhouse modding have been slow and inconsistent and I could only find 50 MX black swithces when I know I've got at least 100 floating around somewhere. So instead I decided to go with stock MX whites. I still needed to open the switches for SIP socket placement but it was way less intensive than lubricating the switches for the Orion.




My workspace is a bit cramped at the moment so I didn't take as many photos during assembly. I haven't been lucky enough to get a set of Beast tools. I hope when I do they work more comfortably than these binder clips.

[img width=400]https://raw.githubusercontent.com/nuclearsandwich/buildlogs/master/duck-viper-kbd/pics/switches-and-tool.jpg">>


I finally had a chance to use the extra long SIP sockets I got from Mouser ages and ages ago. The regular MIL MAX sockets that you can get for pretty cheap on ebay don't extend through a PCB as thick as these Duck PCBs so checking pins and soldering without too much solder, and especially desoldering are all a pain. I dug the extra long SIP sockets and will be using them for all future builds on boards this thick.



PCB Assembly

So PCB assembly was going smoothly, again, once all the switches were seated, I checked the spacing on all the troublesome keys like shifts and modifiers and everything was :thumbsup:. Once the four corners were soldered in, I went and tested connecting the PCB to a computer. In order to do so I had to go back and solder the caps-lock key, which is the viper's FLIP programming key.

After all *that*, I finally noticed that one of the switch pins wasn't through the hole properly. And of course it was a switch in a pretty central part of the PCB. So I ended up desoldering everything, unbended that pin and then trying really hard to seat all the pins again.

The first lesson I learned on this project is *never* don't check every single through hole before starting to solder. I could have saved so much time and frustration if I'd identified that immediately.



Once that was dealt with the rest of the PCB went together lickety split.

Testing and uploading firmware

All of my sets with HHKB layout compatible caps are in in-progress group buys, so I decided to go with a fairly ANSI layout until I have caps that will work with an HHKB layout. I programmed the Viper with my standard 60% layout for now and swapped around LEDs. I decided to put some multicolor LEDs in the top row and they do look quite nice. They get out of phase very quickly and it adds to the effect a lot. The only issue I had getting the firmware to run was that I had to change my computer's region setting to South Korea before the arrow keys would be added to the layout properly. Hopefully this is something O2D are aware of since this is only an issue in the recent firmware versions.

At work the next day

After testing the keyboard, I was pretty excited to bring it into work. I didn't get a chance to type on it before it started spamming out asdfghasdfghasdfgh... and brought my computer to a crazy halt. It took me aages to find the problem but I eventually did and thus went my first encounter with a solder whisker. I guess I didn't clean the PCB with alcohol sufficient for the amount of flux I used in some parts of the rework. A whisker had grown in connecting one of the LED pins to a matrix diode. Which I guess was sufficent to light everything in that row up! Pretty wild.



GitHub has a soldering iron, but no soldapullt or rework flux, so I tinned up the soldering iron and got some copper braid and hoped that this would be a quick enough process that flux wouldn't be necessary. I lucked out, the whisker came right up and left a clear trail. I tested the keyboard out of its case, then in it's case and everything was hunky dory. Got to use it for the rest of the day.

Final notes

When evaluating whether to use stock spring MX Whites or MX Black spring MX Whites, I couldn't feel the difference in either sufficient to care about swapping springs. Now that I've had a chance to type on it, I don't mind the stock whites. The switch on S has lost nearly all of it's tactile click, so I have to open it up to see what the deal is, but I'll wait on that for when I switch it to HHKB layout.



Photo Album

https://www.dropbox.com/sc/hemn93ewheqos8p/AAAvEcANTRXMNaRpTaM01SCja


Tools used

- Hakko FX-888D
- Panavise PCB stand
- Larson hand tools
- Modified binder clip (for switch opening)
- Edsyn Soldapullt
- Desoldering braid
- Edsyn Fume extractor
- Tupperware trays
- 1/16in Alan key
- Keycap puller
« Last Edit: Wed, 29 October 2014, 18:34:03 by nuclearsandwich »

Offline dorkvader

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Re: nuclearsandwich's build log - Orion 88-key in progress
« Reply #30 on: Wed, 29 October 2014, 20:11:16 »
Just a heads up, they sell flux remover.. i think it is like 10 bucks a can or something.. it is aerosol and you just spray it on the pcb (components and all) and the flux comes right off. It is super handy.

found the link:

http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/TECHSPRAY-1621-10S-/20-2105

Oh cool. I'm about to switch to a water soluble flux since I experienced my very first dentrite on my Viper build in spite of a fairly thorough cleaning. The flux and solder I have is all "good ****" as it was my father's from the 1970s.
If it's that old the flux chemicals inside the solder have probably expired decades ago. I recommend getting new solder. I haven't had any issues with whiskers, but I use much newer solder (indium brand, euctectic. It's very nice)
« Last Edit: Wed, 29 October 2014, 20:12:49 by dorkvader »

Offline nuclearsandwich

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Re: nuclearsandwich's build log - Orion 88-key in progress
« Reply #31 on: Wed, 29 October 2014, 20:19:08 »
Just a heads up, they sell flux remover.. i think it is like 10 bucks a can or something.. it is aerosol and you just spray it on the pcb (components and all) and the flux comes right off. It is super handy.

found the link:

http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/TECHSPRAY-1621-10S-/20-2105

Oh cool. I'm about to switch to a water soluble flux since I experienced my very first dentrite on my Viper build in spite of a fairly thorough cleaning. The flux and solder I have is all "good ****" as it was my father's from the 1970s.
If it's that old the flux chemicals inside the solder have probably expired decades ago. I recommend getting new solder. I haven't had any issues with whiskers, but I use much newer solder (indium brand, euctectic. It's very nice)

I think it's a tradeoff. This flux and solder work so well at low temperatures, wich allows me a lot more leeway. But the flux is highly corrosive and the solder is super bad for you without a fume extractor.

Offline nuclearsandwich

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Re: nuclearsandwich's build log - Duck Viper 59-key complete
« Reply #32 on: Fri, 07 November 2014, 22:53:54 »
Next up is something red with MX Black switches. Either an Eagle or a Lightsaver. The black switches are keeping their stock springs, but with superlube on the spring and stem and thin krytox on the slider.

Lubing switches is still a pain in the rear and I don't own any switchplates that can be employed as lubing stations. I should invest in one if I'm gonna keep doing this. Today's switch dismantling entertainment was GameInformer's Resident Evil super replay.

I'm hoping to get the lightsaver set up first but I haven't decided what layout to go for. I'm pretty sure I don't want to do the 1800 layout since I'm a big fan of using the tenkey navigation keys when they're available.

Offline dorkvader

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Re: nuclearsandwich's build log - Duck Viper 59-key complete
« Reply #33 on: Fri, 07 November 2014, 23:14:11 »
Next up is something red with MX Black switches. Either an Eagle or a Lightsaver. The black switches are keeping their stock springs, but with superlube on the spring and stem and thin krytox on the slider.

Lubing switches is still a pain in the rear and I don't own any switchplates that can be employed as lubing stations. I should invest in one if I'm gonna keep doing this. Today's switch dismantling entertainment was GameInformer's Resident Evil super replay.

I'm hoping to get the lightsaver set up first but I haven't decided what layout to go for. I'm pretty sure I don't want to do the 1800 layout since I'm a big fan of using the tenkey navigation keys when they're available.

tenkey navigation is awesome. I use it all the time on fullsize boards even. Makes me wonder how TKL got so popular, lightsaver is only 1 col wider.

Offline nuclearsandwich

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Re: nuclearsandwich's build log - Duck Viper 59-key complete
« Reply #34 on: Mon, 10 November 2014, 02:14:06 »
It's not really a build but I spent the afternoon overhauling my primary bicycle.

I like composing and structuring logs around stuff and it seemed silly not to stick it in the same place my other logs already are. I've got the day off tomorrow and will need to spend it at the bike shop since both my primary and track bikes are out of commission at the moment.

The maintenance log is on GitHub for anyone into that.