IBM Model M 122 Key Terminal Keyboard, Modification painted or dyed?

[ezrahilyer]

Hello everyone,
I have been lurking here for a while, and a year or so I got a regular model M again (I remember having one in the late 80s) and love it.
Then I sorta got bit by the bug and acquired 4 Model M F1 terminal Keyboards (122 key) that I am working on converting to USB with the soarer converter (built inside the case) and a flush mount female USB /B plug on the back (so you can detach the cable) plus do a pro bolt-mod.

I was thinking of dying them black also, I am wondering what you all think about the sale value of these keyboards? would people want them original looking or black? I have read about the RIT dye for the keys, and they look quite a bit more modern that way, I think I would prefer them original myself because I would worry about the dye coming off, but what do you think would sell best?

If you were going to buy a completely restored Model M (regular or 122 key) with a professional cleaning, bolt mod and soarers converter built in with a detachable USB cable, how would you want it? And maybe more importantly, how much would you pay? 

-Ezra

[rowdy]

Welcome to Geekhack!

Bitten by the bug and buys 4 keyboards - we have you now )

Personally I prefer the original pebble/pearl look of the keyboards.

[absyrd]

I can't speak on price, but I'd want them in their original states/colors as much as possible.

[fohat.digs]

I don't know whether it is possible to dye a case. I would love to do it, but have assumed that it was not easily accomplished.

Otherwise, I have had excellent results with "Dupli-Color" @ $8 per can at auto stores, enough to do 2+ cases.

Dyeing IBM PBT caps works very well and does not wear off.

[1391406]

These look to be the same item and are priced at a $1.78 shipped. I'm not really into Kendama, but that's a good deal if you are.

Hashbaz had one like this at keycon. It's easier to spike but the springy (and super long) cord made everything difficult. I would not recommend it over a JKA certified kendama.

I don't know that dying the case would really yield the result you're after. Unicomp does sell 122-key keyboards with black cases. I'm not crazy about the composition of the plastic, but it might be possible to swap the innards and buy some black blank key caps. Hooleon also sells black sticker overlays for blank Buckling Spring key caps which would provide white lettering. Granted, that's hardly an ideal solution but it's similar to pad printed keys(a la a Model M13).

I came up with several color schemes for my 122-key Model F and posted a thread asking for opinions on which one everyone thought looked best, and approx. half of the respondents seemed to like the all black version.

[johndavis33]

I don't really like the beige color of original m's that much, to tell you the truth. They're nice looking in the right looking set up, and are nice for authenticity's sake, but on my desk they just look ugly.

I think for the 122 key, you probably want to go with either a dark, dark blue or a black. It's a giant keyboard, so it'll take up a giant chunk of your desk. Therefore it's probably best to have a color that'll go with anything. It's fine to have a small keyboard like a poker in a cooky color like pink, just because it'll end up looking like just a small detail on your desk. Can't really do that with a 122 key model m,

But, for the highest resale value, I think it'll be best to just keep it in it's normal color

[berserkfan]

I would advise you not to mod these boards. Most people who have modded find that even though their work is an improvement, they can't recoup their costs. Go ask fohat; he has found it hard to sell his stuff for what it's worth.

[1391406]

I would advise you not to mod these boards. Most people who have modded find that even though their work is an improvement, they can't recoup their costs. Go ask fohat; he has found it hard to sell his stuff for what it's worth.

It likely depends on the keyboard and mod in question. For instance, this modded 122-key Model F was posted a few days ago and has 8 watchers. While I'm not particularly fond of it, I'm fairly confident it'll sell for the asking price. The market can be very fickle though, and I wouldn't want to spend a lot of time modding something solely for the purpose of selling it unless I knew there was a market for it. Fortunately, 122-key Model M's aren't expensive and modding one in accordance with the above is more time intensive than anything else. There's no way I'd risk modding an AT or 122-key Model F for the sole purpose of reselling it, though.

[berserkfan]

Watchers don't mean anything. I've seen some things accumulate 30+ watchers and still not get sold after two months.

I certainly do not think that Model F is worth so much.

[1391406]

Watchers don't mean anything. I've seen some things accumulate 30+ watchers and still not get sold after two months.

I certainly do not think that Model F is worth so much.

Watchers don't automatically equate to sales but they do demonstrate interest in an item, and with that much interest early on I'd wager it'll sell. Further, what you or I think of that Model F is irrelevant to its actual market value.

[fohat.digs]

Yes, I saw that one. Must be a geekhacker, wouldn't you think? Speak up!

I have sold a modded F-122 for more than that price, and one for something not too far less.

Considering the rarity, time/money/effort invested in the mod, etc, price points in the contemporary Filco-Topre range do not seem unreasonable.

[berserkfan]

Yes, I saw that one. Must be a geekhacker, wouldn't you think? Speak up!

I have sold a modded F-122 for more than that price, and one for something not too far less.

Considering the rarity, time/money/effort invested in the mod, etc, price points in the contemporary Filco-Topre range do not seem unreasonable.

You put in a lot of effort and time into doing a really unique mod. This one? The work doesn't seem anything in comparison

That said, even I am watching. I am curious. Of course I'm not buying.

[1391406]

Item ended by seller because it's no longer available.

[wcass]

Case and cap color is very much a matter of taste. Best to let the end user select - add it as an upsale option.

Key cap dye jobs do not come off. Just look at my signature - that was done about 4 years ago and it still looks great. That keyboard is at work, so am on it about 40 hours a week. RIT changed the formulation so that now most colors do not take so go with iDye Poly available at many arts and crafts stores as well as online.

The case is not PBT, so does not take the dye like the caps do. I have had good luck with Duplicolor Vinyl and Fabric spray paint, but chips and scratches will expose the white underneath (this doesn't happen with dyed key caps).

[ezrahilyer]

Alright, I have sold 2 of these, and now for the third:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/331319289960

the last one i intend to make into a Raspberry Pi Powered Computer (light the old commodore 64 days!)

this is soooo much fun!!

[fohat.digs]

Alright, I have sold 2 of these, and now for the third:

this is soooo much fun!!

Since you are doing the bolt-mod nayway, why not do the ANSI conversion while you are in there?

That is the only way I would use a 122.

[ezrahilyer]

[/quote]

Since you are doing the bolt-mod nayway, why not do the ANSI conversion while you are in there?

That is the only way I would use a 122.
[/quote]

Consider it done. I have to order a set of shift keys, and an enter key, and backslash key, but I will do that. good idea!
I did look to see that the membrane does have a contact under the empty key (vertical return key vs. horizontal)
what is the best source for the extra keys? Ebay?

[CPTBadAss]

You could order keys from Unicomp as well. If you can't find what you're looking for on their site, you can send them an email.

[fohat.digs]

what is the best source for the extra keys?

Unicomp will sell a complete set of Model M keys for about $30, much better than paying $1 each for individuals.

That will not fill out a 122 set completely, so you may still be buying some singles. And check to see that you have the proper barrel inserts (Unicomp sells them, too, although they are not listed).

[ezrahilyer]

Since you are doing the bolt-mod nayway, why not do the ANSI conversion while you are in there?

That is the only way I would use a 122.

I have now done 2 ANSI conversions, I ordered some keys from clickykeyboards, and since I was doing bolt mods anyway, I did the 2 terminal keyboards in ANSI (now I suppose they are 121key keyboards, but whatever)  I am going to use one of them as my personal board (because i was always missing that short left shift and couldn't get used to the ISO layout) the other one I put up on Ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/IBM-Model-M-122-Key-ANSI-Keyboard-Bolt-Modded-Internal-Soarers-Converter-USB-/331338256336?

Now I have 2 more standard Ms that I will finish doing the conversion on, and put those up soon.

I think I will only keep one ISO layout board in stock and end up doing ANSI conversions pretty much as SOP, from here on out.

I see someone else has some lync model Ms, up with an internal Soarers converter, perhaps this is another member here? http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Lynk-IBM-Lexmark-Model-M-122-Key-USB-Soarers-Converter-Remapping-Macros-/281459028253?pt=PCA_Mice_Trackballs&hash=item418843f11d

Those look like nice boards, but hopefully the extra work involved in doing the ANSI conversion, and the flush mount detachable cable, and the bolt modding will make mine a little better value for the money.... what do you think?

[berserkfan]

I see someone else has some lync model Ms, up with an internal Soarers converter, perhaps this is another member here? http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Lynk-IBM-Lexmark-Model-M-122-Key-USB-Soarers-Converter-Remapping-Macros-/281459028253?pt=PCA_Mice_Trackballs&hash=item418843f11d

Those look like nice boards, but hopefully the extra work involved in doing the ANSI conversion, and the flush mount detachable cable, and the bolt modding will make mine a little better value for the money.... what do you think?

Nah, you can't really make money from this hobby.

It's also an apples to oranges comparison. His are new in box with teensy. Yours are bolt modded with change of layout. ISO poker 2 versus ANSI Ducky Shine 3. Some people won't buy either. As much as I appreciate both your work and orihalcon's, I won't, since I am all about matrix format now. So it is pure subjectivity. You can't put any value on your work or you will be disappointed if buyers don't show up. And then the day after you lower prices, everything sells in a flash and you are left disappointed that you didn't stick to prices... don't go down that route.