I've been planning on doing a custom 60% build for a while now, and today I ordered the first of my parts. I plan to assemble everything myself, including a hand-wired matrix and from-scratch firmware.

The first decision I made was what physical layout I wanted to work with. I decided on a Poker II physical layout for a couple of reasons. It was the easiest 60% board to find a plate for, as the Poker is one of the most common 60% MX boards, and it allowed me to use 100% standard size keycaps. I wouldn't have to dig around for a 1.75x shift or a function cap. I considered having two 1u keys in the space usually dedicated to the backspace, so that I could have esc and `~ on the top layer, but decided against it in favour of ease of sourcing parts.

The next step I took was to determine a layout for the top layer and the function layer. The biggest decisions I faced in the top layer was determining whether I wanted `~ or esc in my top left corner, and which bottom row keys to sacrifice for fn keys. Because I find myself spending a lot of time in linux on the command line, I decided I wanted ready access to `~. As I have never used the apps button or the right super key in my life, I changed those keys to fn lock and fn respectively. On my function layer, I duplicated all the functionality I lost on the top layer going from a TKL board to a 60% board. Esc and f1-f12 fill the first 13 slots in the top row (backspace is left accessible). WASD is replaced with arrow keys. TYU/GHJ are replaced with the 6-key cluster, and OP[{ is replaced with Print Screen/Scroll Lock/Pause. I do frequently use print screen and pause, scroll lock is kept for the sake of completeness -- otherwise I'd keep a blank space between the two keys to keep the spacing the same relative to each other.


http://www.keyboard-layout-editor.com/#/layouts/30f7d2f9ef2a1f81a14cd943a95efd23


http://www.keyboard-layout-editor.com/#/layouts/9a639f9115c36b014a15cffce344eeb3

I envision the fn and fn lock keys to act in a similar way as caps lock and shift do on the alphas. Pressing fn lock will lock the board into the function layer, or what I call "web mode" This leaves me with access to all the keys I use on a regular basis when browsing the internet, in conjunction with a mouse -- arrow keys, home, end, pgup, pgdn, f5, f11, backspace and tab. When in this mode, holding fn will return me to the standard layer, and allow me to type a short phrase (i.e. web address) by hunting and pecking with my other hand. For typing more in depth (i.e. forum post), I can exit the function lock, and use both hands. If in the top layer I need to access one of the function layer keys, I can use the fn key as normal.

The only thing this layout sacrifices is a second function layer for a number pad. My next project will likely be a custom MX numberpad, unless I buy a separate numberpad in the meantime. The lack of a number pad is something I have never had an issue with on TKL boards, I don't expect to miss it any more in a 60% layout. Having a separate number pad would allow me to place the pad to the left of the keyboard, and allows me to have the pad in a non-staggered layout and with 2x keys, which is what I am used to.

Next step was to decide on a controller and other parts. I have costar stabs from when I harvested parts from my RK-9000, and I have enough switches to do MX blues or MX greens. If I decide I want to do clears, I'll need to order another 50 switches, so I'm going to go ahead with greens for now. I need a controller that can accommodate at least 61 intersections, which means I need 16 available pins for an 8x8 or a 7x9 matrix. I decided on an Arduino Pro Micro because I've heard a lot of good things about working with them. If I run into trouble, my dad has written keyboard firmware for an old alps board on one of these, so I have a resource if I need it. To get better than 2KRO, I need diodes, and I've ordered 500 1N4148. This is enough for my keyboard and planned numpad, as well as some spares and components for other projects.

I'm still looking around for a plate and a case. At this point, I'm more interested in a plate, as if worst comes to worst, I can mount the whole assembly on a block of wood. However, I'll need a plate to begin the wiring. If anyone has any suggestions for sourcing a Poker II plate or similar layout with support for plate mounted stabs and switch cutouts, I'm all ears. I'm hoping to get a plate in a neutral colour, as I don't know yet for certain what caps will end up on this board (at this point, probably toxic, maybe Ivan's PBT blanks).

Parts list:

Switches (have, MX Blue/Green)
Stabilizers (have, costar)
Diodes (ordered)
Controller (ordered)
Plate (Need)
Case (Need)
Caps (ordered compatible)

Feel free to discuss, offer criticism/feedback, etc. This is my first custom build, so I expect some stumbling blocks, hopefully I don't break too much of anything.

I definitely considered it, but it wouldn't allow me to have switch cutouts, at least not without a ton of work. Without a PCB, I expect it to be much more difficult to change switches by desoldering, I was hoping to be able to switch them out without as much trouble. I was also hoping to keep the rosewill plate/case as a switch test bed, to test out a few switches on a plate in a case to decide if I like them, or to offer as a tester to friends. If I really can't find a plate, I may have to just bite the bullet, but I hope it won't come to that.

What about using a little bit of epoxy and securing the switch bottoms to the plate, while leaving the tops free to be removed? Might that work?

I didn't know about that issue with direct wiring, thanks for bringing it up

The problem is, I'm torn between clears and greens. I guess the best solution is to buy another couple of stabs and build a second board

Actually, that would give me an excuse to pick up a nostalgia set....

I'm also looking into options for getting some custom plates cut from aluminum, in the event that I can't find a source to buy a plate. What type (i.e. 6061) and thickness of aluminum would people recommend for plates? I believe I need somewhere in the neighbourhood of 1/16" for plate mount stabs (at least, that's what all the stock plates on my boards with plate mount stabs are).

Whatever type I choose, I'll probably buy a small sheet and have it laser cut locally. Any recommendations?

You could use 6061 or 5052 Alu, 304 Stainless, or even mild steel. The thickness should always be 0.060" or as close as possible to that.

Quick little update here.

I've got the diodes, controller, and other miscellaneous parts in. I also picked up a stock Poker II plate (thanks Signature!) that's going to work great for putting things together. I also picked up a Nostalgia set, and am using a 1.25x ISO shift for the FN key, and a 1.25 blank for the FN lock.

I'm still debating about a case, whether I should go acrylic, alu, or just make one out of wood.

Just saw this. Have you considered the mx lock switches? Having that would eliminate the need for a function lock key and you might be able to add numpad to a second function layer.

I hadn't thought of that. Not sure if it's possible, although I can't see why it wouldn't be. I'm more concerned that it might not look all that great.

Hmmm, maybe.  I had something like this in mind when I typed up that post.

Finished my first pass at firmware today. I'm sure it could be better, but it seems to work so far. I haven't tested it with a matrix, but when I connect pins to individual switches, I get keys registering.

I ordered a bunch of springs from sprit, so I think I'm going to wait and see if I prefer my keys heavier or lighter before I get to actually soldering the matrix. I've settled on doing a nice wooden case for this build, paired with the Nostalgia set. I'm also going to be attempting to build a raspberry pi model B+ into the chassis. Ideally, the board will be set up so that I can run a cable from one port on the chassis to a computer, and have the board act as a standalone keyboard. If I instead run a power cable from the wall to a second port on the chassis, this powers the raspberry pi, and the board is linked to the pi as a USB input device. I may end up with a very tall board, but I think it'll come together nicely.