Just for fun, the insides of a Roccat Isku

[Moschops]

I've got this second-hand Roccat Isku. I really don't like typing on it, but that's me. It's a pretty standard rubber dome action and there are no surprises inside the case.

On this particular one, the "W" key is non-functional. Given the target market of these, I'm not surprised the W key has taken a pounding. I took the back off to take a look inside, in the hope that whatever has broken will be visibly obvious.

Once all the screws came out (including the many hidden under the rubber feet), the back came off easily to reveal a white backing layer (presumably the source of the key illumination). Beneath that, three layers of membrane, and nothing obviously wrong with the "W" key or associated membranes; looks just like all the rest.

A few solder blobs are not the tidiest pieces of work, and there's some white residue on one of the electronic component mounting boards, but nothing too horrific.

Low-res pictures:



I expect I'll give it a hosing down with the compressed air, put it back together and see if just the act of taking it apart and putting it back together did any good.

[paicrai]

edit: apology for the mean spirited **** i said here









my smacktalk is usually on a higher level

[Moschops]

just for fun, sod off

Take it to the off-topic forum, or be abusive towards me by PM. No reason why everyone else should have to put up with you as well.

[Puddsy]

Instead of starting a flame war, let's be nice, hm?

I think this is pretty cool. I like pictures of the insides of keyboards. They're always really interesting.

[paicrai]

"just for fun let me start a miniblog in the keyboards sub about my ****ty roccat isku"

[Input Nirvana]

I'm not impressed.

Paicrai:
What is your problem? This is a no trolling zone. No one wants what you are trying to dish out. Negative and worthless post. What are you thinking? If you have nothing to offer, stop typing. This type of BS is why we got mods back in 2012. If you have fun, engaging, interesting, relevant posts, fire up your fingers and join in the fun. But as for now, this is reported and will be addressed at the highest level. This behavior has gone on far too long. Man up and be a member, not a disruption that needs to be removed.

If you have an issue with this, with me, PM me or better yet, call me. This horse**** posting needs to be minimized.

[Input Nirvana]

Moschops:

Thanks for posting, now I know what the inside of those things looks like. That's what GH is, a community of like-minded keyboard phreaks sharing information.

I suggest you put a $5 dollar bill and pic of a bikini girl in the case when reassembling, that way it will be much more fun to type on  

[Roibhilin]

just for fun, sod off

why are you being a prick

[Input Nirvana]

just for fun, sod off

why are you being a prick

Yo, please don't feed the troll, or derail this thread anymore than it has already. The problem is being discussed right now and will be handled through GH TOS rules. THANKS!

 BACK TO KEYBOARDS!

[Moschops]

Well, the next part of it is that (unsurprisingly) when reassembled, the "W" key remains non-functional. I can't see any visible difference in anything associated with the "W" key compared to the others around it. Rubber dome, physical keycap, layers of membrane; nothing obviously wrong.

A rubber dome is a rubber dome, and a membrane is a membrane, though, so if anyone's got any ideas it would be nice to get it working again. All I can think at the moment is that a "W" key on this kind of keyboard is likely to have suffered a real hammering from the previous owner. I wonder if perhaps the dome simply doesn't cause a connection anymore, although it'd be hard to test it as the only way to be sure would be to test it whilst reassembled, and the original case designer disappointingly didn't make it transparent so I can't see it

[Signature]

Well, the next part of it is that (unsurprisingly) when reassembled, the "W" key remains non-functional. I can't see any visible difference in anything associated with the "W" key compared to the others around it. Rubber dome, physical keycap, layers of membrane; nothing obviously wrong.

A rubber dome is a rubber dome, and a membrane is a membrane, though, so if anyone's got any ideas it would be nice to get it working again. All I can think at the moment is that a "W" key on this kind of keyboard is likely to have suffered a real hammering from the previous owner. I wonder if perhaps the dome simply doesn't cause a connection anymore, although it'd be hard to test it as the only way to be sure would be to test it whilst reassembled, and the original case designer disappointingly didn't make it transparent so I can't see it

Prob something wrong in the membrane pcb!

[Moschops]

I may have allowed the fact of a bad "W" key to cloud my thinking. That key will take a hammering given the typical usage of a keyboard like this, but I'd swear earlier that while I was testing it the "X" key got flakey for a moment. Guess it's time to map out the membranes properly and see where they link up.

[Daniel Beardsmore]

Moschops:

Thanks for posting, now I know what the inside of those things looks like. That's what GH is, a community of like-minded keyboard phreaks sharing information.

Indeed — even after I learnt what was inside a mechanical keyboard, it was some time before I managed to find out how ordinary keyboards worked. It's always nice to understand how even the less favourable products are made — gives you a better overall picture of the subject.

[Input Nirvana]

Moschops:

Thanks for posting, now I know what the inside of those things looks like. That's what GH is, a community of like-minded keyboard phreaks sharing information.

Indeed — even after I learnt what was inside a mechanical keyboard, it was some time before I managed to find out how ordinary keyboards worked. It's always nice to understand how even the less favourable products are made — gives you a better overall picture of the subject.

Are you KIDDING??? I believe this clearly shows rubber domes are far, far superior. NO MOVING PARTS TO BREAK!

[Puddsy]

Moschops:

Thanks for posting, now I know what the inside of those things looks like. That's what GH is, a community of like-minded keyboard phreaks sharing information.

Indeed — even after I learnt what was inside a mechanical keyboard, it was some time before I managed to find out how ordinary keyboards worked. It's always nice to understand how even the less favourable products are made — gives you a better overall picture of the subject.

Are you KIDDING??? I believe this clearly shows TOPRE IS far, far superior. NO MOVING PARTS TO BREAK!

FTFY

My realforce has been my buddy the past few weeks

Also, Kappa.

[Input Nirvana]

Moschops:

Thanks for posting, now I know what the inside of those things looks like. That's what GH is, a community of like-minded keyboard phreaks sharing information.

Indeed — even after I learnt what was inside a mechanical keyboard, it was some time before I managed to find out how ordinary keyboards worked. It's always nice to understand how even the less favourable products are made — gives you a better overall picture of the subject.

Are you KIDDING??? I believe this clearly shows TOPRE IS far, far superior. NO MOVING PARTS TO BREAK!

FTFY

My realforce has been my buddy the past few weeks

Also, Kappa.

LOL

This thread has improved.

[Puddsy]

I believe that means we've done our job.

I've got a box of cookies, want one?

[CaptLock]

THis Paicrai guy is a real prick 24/7.

http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=62629.msg1467291#msg1467291

Ban him for the good of the forum.

[Signature]

THis Paicrai guy is a real prick 24/7.

http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=62629.msg1467291#msg1467291

Ban him for the good of the forum.

cut the drama, if actions are necessary mods will do it for us

[Photekq]

THis Paicrai guy is a real prick 24/7.

http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=62629.msg1467291#msg1467291

Ban him for the good of the forum.

He's actually just quoting a line from In The Loop there. Not to say that makes your first comment any less true..

[mikekey]

THis Paicrai guy is a real prick 24/7.

http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=62629.msg1467291#msg1467291

Ban him for the good of the forum.

He's actually just quoting a line from In The Loop there. Not to say that makes your first comment any less true..

He IS consistent.  Lol

Red.  But I don't have one.

who are you ****er

[Moschops]

With apologies for going off-topic, it's really annoying me that the W and X keys don't do anything. I'll never use it as typing on it is horrible, but it's still a keyboard and if I could fix it I'm sure I'd find someone who'd like a glowy-blue keyboard with extra buttons. I'm going to take a good look at the membranes (given how they work, I could imagine that if one conductive path was broken somewhere, it might affect very few keys, and that break might be nowhere near the affected key), but if anyone has any ideas I'm listening

[Signature]

With apologies for going off-topic, it's really annoying me that the W and X keys don't do anything. I'll never use it as typing on it is horrible, but it's still a keyboard and if I could fix it I'm sure I'd find someone who'd like a glowy-blue keyboard with extra buttons. I'm going to take a good look at the membranes (given how they work, I could imagine that if one conductive path was broken somewhere, it might affect very few keys, and that break might be nowhere near the affected key), but if anyone has any ideas I'm listening

Think it is pretty hard to fix a membrane unless you want to fully replace it

[Moschops]

Think it is pretty hard to fix a membrane unless you want to fully replace it

Certainly don't want to do that. I'd settle for just working out what the actual breakage is before I bin it. Just out of curiosity, really.

[Input Nirvana]

Working on stuff is VERY informative. It may be pointless, but there is info to be had. But I don't think  you should spend more than a couple hours checking it out. Life is too precious for that.

[paicrai]

THis Paicrai guy is a real prick 24/7.

http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=62629.msg1467291#msg1467291

Ban him for the good of the forum.

He's actually just quoting a line from In The Loop there. Not to say that makes your first comment any less true..

[Novus]

THis Paicrai guy is a real prick 24/7.

http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=62629.msg1467291#msg1467291

Ban him for the good of the forum.

He's actually just quoting a line from In The Loop there. Not to say that makes your first comment any less true..

[keyhopper]

With apologies for going off-topic, it's really annoying me that the W and X keys don't do anything. I'll never use it as typing on it is horrible, but it's still a keyboard and if I could fix it I'm sure I'd find someone who'd like a glowy-blue keyboard with extra buttons. I'm going to take a good look at the membranes (given how they work, I could imagine that if one conductive path was broken somewhere, it might affect very few keys, and that break might be nowhere near the affected key), but if anyone has any ideas I'm listening

Think it is pretty hard to fix a membrane unless you want to fully replace it

It's easier than you might think. I've done it plenty of times with my previous keyboards.
After spilling liquids, upon opening them up, I would see a discoloured trace that was interrupted if measured with a tester (mostly when someone did this and left it plugged in a long time after the spill).

I always fix them with what we call here "silver paint" or "graphite paint".

The closest I can find on amazon are these (search keywords: "conductive pcb repair"):



              http://www.amazon.com/CircuitWriter-Precision-Pen-silver-based-grams/dp/B00B88B9KI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1413020880&sr=8-2&keywords=conductive+repair

              http://www.amazon.com/0-2ML-Silver-Conductive-Electrically-Repair/dp/B00HNHUZ08/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1413020804&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=contuctive+paint+repair

              http://www.amazon.com/water-based-Conductive-Colloidal-Resistance-brush-cap/dp/B008OVGH9A/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1413020771&sr=8-5&keywords=graphite+paint+repair

But I don't have those here. Instead, we have these here in Argentina (south america), which I have used many times:



             http://articulo.mercadolibre.com.ar/MLA-526929257-pintura-conductora-base-de-plata-delta-6-gr-_JM

             http://articulo.mercadolibre.com.ar/MLA-522706542-pintura-de-grafito-delta-para-controles-remotos-_JM


The Conductive paints based on silver are more expensive but the resulting resistance in Ohms is lower (which is good). On the other hand, the conductive paints based on graphite are much cheaper, but their resulting resistance is higher (not so good. Graphite is only good for signal traces, like keys, but bad for lighting an LED that feeds its power through that repaired trace).

Use a multimeter/tester to test conductivity of the traces in the membrane that you suspect are faulty. Be careful though, the multimeter probes are pointy and may scratch the membrane traces and damage them if you press too hard and loose grip of the probes.


My guess is that the pad below the W key could use some of that conductive paint.
Beware, it is kind of an art. Practice practice practice. Try it first on a piece of paper, then measure with the multimeter in the piece of paper. Sometimes a couple of layers with drying time in between give the best results for low resistance (low Ohms means that more current can go through that trace: less interrupted).


Hope it helped!
Cheers!!
.KeyHopper.

EDIT: fixed syntax/grammar. Added recomendations at the end.

[keyhopper]

Also, use the tip of a tiny flat-head screwdriver or an xacto knife to shape the trace while it dries.
And make sure it doesn't overflow to nearby traces, otherwise it will create a short. You can fix it with the xacto knife.
Make sure it is perfect before pluggin it in, testing Ohms with the multimeter (as low as possible in the repaired membrane trace, and infinite to sourrounding nearby traces).

Cheers!
.KeyHopper.

[Coreda]

Heh, figures the W is the first to go. OP living up to the hack in Geekhacker, hope the adventure pays off if just in a curious exercise

[Oobly]

This stuff is excellent for fixing membrane traces: http://www.adafruit.com/products/1128

Testing on my Model M membrane I get less than 1 ohm through 2 pads of this and an original trace and I suspect most of the measured resistance is from the original trace. The conductive adhesive really works for low current applications like keyboards and sensing.

[keyhopper]

This stuff is excellent for fixing membrane traces: http://www.adafruit.com/products/1128

Testing on my Model M membrane I get less than 1 ohm through 2 pads of this and an original trace and I suspect most of the measured resistance is from the original trace. The conductive adhesive really works for low current applications like keyboards and sensing.

Nice! The conductive adhesive sounds very practical.

Cheers!
.KeyHopper.