Should I consider Ergodox if I have limited soldering experience?

[gooseta]

Hi,

I have just seen the ergodox kit on massdrop, and it looks like a good price. However, I have only soldered about 5 times (maybe 4-5 hours experience), do you think that the project would be too hard?

[Hazel]

I managed to build my Ergodox with limited soldering experience.  If you order the kit, you'll have a couple months to get the tools and practice before it arrives.  There's lots of videos tutorials on the web which will get you started.  I was terrified of the surface-mount diodes and the IC pins, but after watching a couple videos (and learning about flux), I was ready to dive right in.

The things I learned while building my Ergodox were:

• Soldering is easy if you use flux!
• The surface-mount diodes seem daunting at first, but you'll get the hang of them really quick.
• Magnification is good.  Even some cheap reading glasses will help immensely.
• Use flux.
• Go slow, test joints and components with a multimeter as you install them.  Check for continuity to each pin, check for continuity to and across the diodes, check for proper orientation of the diodes, and check for shorts between adjacent pins.
• Don't get frustrated.  If something just won't go right, unplug you iron and walk away for a while.
• Be prepared to troubleshoot and make repairs over the first couple days.  Expect keys that worked yesterday to be dead today.  If a key goes dead, its diode probably needs to be tacked down again.
• Use flux.
• Be careful installing the LEDs, or omit them completely.  Hold them all the way in while soldering them down.
• The hardest part is actually stripping the USB cable and soldering the USB connections.
• Use flux!

[davkol]

SMD parts can be annoying. If you have a decent soldering iron and use through-hole diodes (especially inside switches, which isn't the case of MD's kit), it's significantly easier IME. The only PITA left are connectors and Teensy then.

[orangeju1ce]

I made it with zero soldering experience.

I watched some youtube videos for basic soldering techniques.


Just make sure the SMDs are in the correct orientation. That includes the controllers!!

I used a soldering iron and it was great just make sure your solder is very thin.  I only broke 1 diode..

[tp4tissue]

um...

the Ergodox is for Advanced users only, who likes to tinker and explore NOT having wrist pain..


If you don't have wrist pain... and You type slowly or not much at all..  then It's not imperative that you even buy a mechanical keyboard to begin with...

[Lastpilot]

I'm currently doing a free assembly service if you are interested.
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=62556.0

[gooseta]

um...

the Ergodox is for Advanced users only, who likes to tinker and explore NOT having wrist pain..


If you don't have wrist pain... and You type slowly or not much at all..  then It's not imperative that you even buy a mechanical keyboard to begin with...

... Just because I haven't soldered much doesn't mean that I don't like to tinker. I type a bloody awful lot as I am a student and I type reasonably fast. Not sure how soldering ability relates to wrist pain or typing skill... I don't get wrist pain, I feel I can type faster when i can choose the positioning of the keyboards. Your comment is just plain condescending...

I managed to build my Ergodox with limited soldering experience.  If you order the kit, you'll have a couple months to get the tools and practice before it arrives.  There's lots of videos tutorials on the web which will get you started.  I was terrified of the surface-mount diodes and the IC pins, but after watching a couple videos (and learning about flux), I was ready to dive right in.

The things I learned while building my Ergodox were:

• Soldering is easy if you use flux!
• The surface-mount diodes seem daunting at first, but you'll get the hang of them really quick.
• Magnification is good.  Even some cheap reading glasses will help immensely.
• Use flux.
• Go slow, test joints and components with a multimeter as you install them.  Check for continuity to each pin, check for continuity to and across the diodes, check for proper orientation of the diodes, and check for shorts between adjacent pins.
• Don't get frustrated.  If something just won't go right, unplug you iron and walk away for a while.
• Be prepared to troubleshoot and make repairs over the first couple days.  Expect keys that worked yesterday to be dead today.  If a key goes dead, its diode probably needs to be tacked down again.
• Use flux.
• Be careful installing the LEDs, or omit them completely.  Hold them all the way in while soldering them down.
• The hardest part is actually stripping the USB cable and soldering the USB connections.
• Use flux!

Firstly, is hot air soldering easier for the diodes? Also, what is flux and how should i use it?

[gooseta]

I'm currently doing a free assembly service if you are interested.
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=62556.0

Sorry but I'm in the uk, would be too much hassle. And I want to build it myself

[jameslr]

You should totally DIY. Soldering is easy, and you'll only learn by doing. I recommend checking out the EEVBlog soldering tutorials, and possibly visiting the Living Soldering Thread here on Geekhack for some tips/ tricks.

Here's the first episode of the EEVBlog soldering tutorial:

[tp4tissue]

um...

the Ergodox is for Advanced users only, who likes to tinker and explore NOT having wrist pain..


If you don't have wrist pain... and You type slowly or not much at all..  then It's not imperative that you even buy a mechanical keyboard to begin with...

... Just because I haven't soldered much doesn't mean that I don't like to tinker. I type a bloody awful lot as I am a student and I type reasonably fast. Not sure how soldering ability relates to wrist pain or typing skill... I don't get wrist pain, I feel I can type faster when i can choose the positioning of the keyboards. Your comment is just plain condescending...

I managed to build my Ergodox with limited soldering experience.  If you order the kit, you'll have a couple months to get the tools and practice before it arrives.  There's lots of videos tutorials on the web which will get you started.  I was terrified of the surface-mount diodes and the IC pins, but after watching a couple videos (and learning about flux), I was ready to dive right in.

The things I learned while building my Ergodox were:

• Soldering is easy if you use flux!
• The surface-mount diodes seem daunting at first, but you'll get the hang of them really quick.
• Magnification is good.  Even some cheap reading glasses will help immensely.
• Use flux.
• Go slow, test joints and components with a multimeter as you install them.  Check for continuity to each pin, check for continuity to and across the diodes, check for proper orientation of the diodes, and check for shorts between adjacent pins.
• Don't get frustrated.  If something just won't go right, unplug you iron and walk away for a while.
• Be prepared to troubleshoot and make repairs over the first couple days.  Expect keys that worked yesterday to be dead today.  If a key goes dead, its diode probably needs to be tacked down again.
• Use flux.
• Be careful installing the LEDs, or omit them completely.  Hold them all the way in while soldering them down.
• The hardest part is actually stripping the USB cable and soldering the USB connections.
• Use flux!

Firstly, is hot air soldering easier for the diodes? Also, what is flux and how should i use it?

Well then by all means disregard my Comment, and buy whatever the fvk you want to buy.. sheesh..

Just warning you about how advanced and Specific the ergodox is.... not for the feint of heart...

[Hazel]

Firstly, is hot air soldering easier for the diodes? Also, what is flux and how should i use it?

I've never tried any hot-air soldering, so I can't speak to that.  There are people who build reflow ovens from toasters, but I don't really know how that works.

As for flux:  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soldering#Flux

Think of flux as being like a primer or a magnet for solder.  Solder prefers to ball up on the tip of the iron and stay there, but if you paint the destination with flux the solder flows right where you want it.  There's lots of science behind it, but it might as well be magic.   Paint the pin with flux, get a bit of solder on the tip of your iron, touch the iron to the pin, and the solder flows onto the pin and makes a perfect joint!

You can get liquid flux in jars, but I used a "flux pen" (works like a marker).  You just need a bit of scrap to scribble on to get it flowing into the tip.

Again, watch a couple videos and you'll see just how easy it can be.

[gooseta]

um...

the Ergodox is for Advanced users only, who likes to tinker and explore NOT having wrist pain..


If you don't have wrist pain... and You type slowly or not much at all..  then It's not imperative that you even buy a mechanical keyboard to begin with...

... Just because I haven't soldered much doesn't mean that I don't like to tinker. I type a bloody awful lot as I am a student and I type reasonably fast. Not sure how soldering ability relates to wrist pain or typing skill... I don't get wrist pain, I feel I can type faster when i can choose the positioning of the keyboards. Your comment is just plain condescending...

I managed to build my Ergodox with limited soldering experience.  If you order the kit, you'll have a couple months to get the tools and practice before it arrives.  There's lots of videos tutorials on the web which will get you started.  I was terrified of the surface-mount diodes and the IC pins, but after watching a couple videos (and learning about flux), I was ready to dive right in.

The things I learned while building my Ergodox were:

• Soldering is easy if you use flux!
• The surface-mount diodes seem daunting at first, but you'll get the hang of them really quick.
• Magnification is good.  Even some cheap reading glasses will help immensely.
• Use flux.
• Go slow, test joints and components with a multimeter as you install them.  Check for continuity to each pin, check for continuity to and across the diodes, check for proper orientation of the diodes, and check for shorts between adjacent pins.
• Don't get frustrated.  If something just won't go right, unplug you iron and walk away for a while.
• Be prepared to troubleshoot and make repairs over the first couple days.  Expect keys that worked yesterday to be dead today.  If a key goes dead, its diode probably needs to be tacked down again.
• Use flux.
• Be careful installing the LEDs, or omit them completely.  Hold them all the way in while soldering them down.
• The hardest part is actually stripping the USB cable and soldering the USB connections.
• Use flux!

Firstly, is hot air soldering easier for the diodes? Also, what is flux and how should i use it?

Well then by all means disregard my Comment, and buy whatever the fvk you want to buy.. sheesh..

Just warning you about how advanced and Specific the ergodox is.... not for the feint of heart...

That's not the point. You assumed that I have a slow typing speed and no need for a mechanical keyboard from my soldering ability. The two are unrelated.

[davkol]

I'm currently doing a free assembly service if you are interested.
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=62556.0

Sorry but I'm in the uk, would be too much hassle. And I want to build it myself

Buy from FalbaTech, pay no import tax/customs, have it partially assembled (helps avoid the worst PITA), use switches with built-in diodes, profit.

[gooseta]

Firstly, is hot air soldering easier for the diodes? Also, what is flux and how should i use it?

I've never tried any hot-air soldering, so I can't speak to that.  There are people who build reflow ovens from toasters, but I don't really know how that works.

As for flux:  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soldering#Flux

Think of flux as being like a primer or a magnet for solder.  Solder prefers to ball up on the tip of the iron and stay there, but if you paint the destination with flux the solder flows right where you want it.  There's lots of science behind it, but it might as well be magic.   Paint the pin with flux, get a bit of solder on the tip of your iron, touch the iron to the pin, and the solder flows onto the pin and makes a perfect joint!

You can get liquid flux in jars, but I used a "flux pen" (works like a marker).  You just need a bit of scrap to scribble on to get it flowing into the tip.

Again, watch a couple videos and you'll see just how easy it can be.

Thanks for the info on flux. I think I will try hot-air soldering as I already own a heat gun and I've seen whitefiredragon's tutorial on youtube and it seems much simpler than using the iron so many times for such small components

[esoomenona]

Buy my ErgoDox... it's cheaper than doing it yourself.

[Puddsy]

Yep!

Might be a fun project. It's fairly forgiving, actually.

[gooseta]

Yep!

Might be a fun project. It's fairly forgiving, actually.

Thanks for the words of advice everyone. I think I will join the group buy then.

[davkol]

Well, if you enjoy waiting 2+ months…

[gooseta]

Well, if you enjoy waiting 2+ months…

Alternatives :
Buy an ergodox fully assembled
cons :
more expensive
no satisfaction

[davkol]

Buy a kit from czarek (FalbaTech), waiting time about two weeks, perhaps less; assembly is optional, although I do recommend at least the partial one, because dealing with connectors and sometimes diodes can be a PITA (satisfactory only if you're a masochist).

I'm not familiar with UK import fees, but I paid ****ing $320 for my MD kit (Czech import tax included, about $50 in this case). Here's what I'd do:
€110 for PCBs, electronics, Teensy and a PVC case from FalbaTech, shipped within Europe; preferably partially assembled (+ €15), which excludes only switches (I'd use switches with built-in diodes, maybe it could be possible to get a discount in that case)
about €30 (or possibly much less) for some old (Cherry G80) keyboard to harvest switches and keycaps

[MAR82]

um...

the Ergodox is for Advanced users only, who likes to tinker and explore NOT having wrist pain..


If you don't have wrist pain... and You type slowly or not much at all..  then It's not imperative that you even buy a mechanical keyboard to begin with...

Well then by all means disregard my Comment, and buy whatever the fvk you want to buy.. sheesh..

Just warning you about how advanced and Specific the ergodox is.... not for the feint of heart...

Wow, with comments like that you really come off sounding like an jerk.
It's up to him if he feels that he wants a mechanical keyboard. It has nothing to do with how many WPM he can type. He could do no typing on it at all, and might only use it for gaming.

The question he asked was; “I have just seen the ergodox kit on massdrop, and it looks like a good price. However, I have only soldered about 5 times (maybe 4-5 hours experience), do you think that the project would be too hard?”

I don't see where you answered his question, AND I clearly didn't see him ask you your opinion on anything but soldering.


With your last comment I can see that you are clearly an a$$hole

PS: if you're having a bad day or something, that happens to all of us. Just read your post a few times before sending it. Didn't your mother ever tell you; “if you don't have something nice to say, just keep your mouth shut”

PPS: I can't stand to see someone down talk someone else like that. We are all here because we like mechanical keyboards, so let's try to play nice

[davkol]

snip

You must be new here. Also, whiteknighting? Really?

[MAR82]

snip

You must be new here. Also, whiteknighting? Really?

I mostly lurk around, But when I saw his comments, it just pissed me off and I had to reply

Edit: Oh and by the way I'm not trying to defend OP, I'm just telling tp4tissue that he sounds like an ******* with comments like the ones he made

[tp4tissue]

um...

the Ergodox is for Advanced users only, who likes to tinker and explore NOT having wrist pain..


If you don't have wrist pain... and You type slowly or not much at all..  then It's not imperative that you even buy a mechanical keyboard to begin with...

Well then by all means disregard my Comment, and buy whatever the fvk you want to buy.. sheesh..

Just warning you about how advanced and Specific the ergodox is.... not for the feint of heart...

Wow, with comments like that you really come off sounding like an jerk.
It's up to him if he feels that he wants a mechanical keyboard. It has nothing to do with how many WPM he can type. He could do no typing on it at all, and might only use it for gaming.

The question he asked was; “I have just seen the ergodox kit on massdrop, and it looks like a good price. However, I have only soldered about 5 times (maybe 4-5 hours experience), do you think that the project would be too hard?”

I don't see where you answered his question, AND I clearly didn't see him ask you your opinion on anything but soldering.


With your last comment I can see that you are clearly an a$$hole

PS: if you're having a bad day or something, that happens to all of us. Just read your post a few times before sending it. Didn't your mother ever tell you; “if you don't have something nice to say, just keep your mouth shut”

PPS: I can't stand to see someone down talk someone else like that. We are all here because we like mechanical keyboards, so let's try to play nice

My point is, Ergodox is not easy...  and Most people simply can't handle it... it's not the n00ber plug and play experience most people are looking for...

That was my caution to new users..  Most n00bs will be better served by Quickfire Rapids.

[tp4tissue]

snip

You must be new here. Also, whiteknighting? Really?

I mostly lurk around, But when I saw his comments, it just pissed me off and I had to reply

Edit: Oh and by the way I'm not trying to defend OP, I'm just telling tp4tissue that he sounds like an ******* with comments like the ones he made

Fine, buy an Ergodox,  see if I care...

[gooseta]

um...

the Ergodox is for Advanced users only, who likes to tinker and explore NOT having wrist pain..


If you don't have wrist pain... and You type slowly or not much at all..  then It's not imperative that you even buy a mechanical keyboard to begin with...

Well then by all means disregard my Comment, and buy whatever the fvk you want to buy.. sheesh..

Just warning you about how advanced and Specific the ergodox is.... not for the feint of heart...

Wow, with comments like that you really come off sounding like an jerk.
It's up to him if he feels that he wants a mechanical keyboard. It has nothing to do with how many WPM he can type. He could do no typing on it at all, and might only use it for gaming.

The question he asked was; “I have just seen the ergodox kit on massdrop, and it looks like a good price. However, I have only soldered about 5 times (maybe 4-5 hours experience), do you think that the project would be too hard?”

I don't see where you answered his question, AND I clearly didn't see him ask you your opinion on anything but soldering.


With your last comment I can see that you are clearly an a$$hole

PS: if you're having a bad day or something, that happens to all of us. Just read your post a few times before sending it. Didn't your mother ever tell you; “if you don't have something nice to say, just keep your mouth shut”

PPS: I can't stand to see someone down talk someone else like that. We are all here because we like mechanical keyboards, so let's try to play nice

My point is, Ergodox is not easy...  and Most people simply can't handle it... it's not the n00ber plug and play experience most people are looking for...

That was my caution to new users..  Most n00bs will be better served by Quickfire Rapids.

It's quite obvious from my original post that I am not a "n00ber", otherwise I wouldn't consider this. I know it's not easy, that's why I bloody asked you condescending tw*t...

[gooseta]

Buy a kit from czarek (FalbaTech), waiting time about two weeks, perhaps less; assembly is optional, although I do recommend at least the partial one, because dealing with connectors and sometimes diodes can be a PITA (satisfactory only if you're a masochist).

I'm not familiar with UK import fees, but I paid ****ing $320 for my MD kit (Czech import tax included, about $50 in this case). Here's what I'd do:
€110 for PCBs, electronics, Teensy and a PVC case from FalbaTech, shipped within Europe; preferably partially assembled (+ €15), which excludes only switches (I'd use switches with built-in diodes, maybe it could be possible to get a discount in that case)
about €30 (or possibly much less) for some old (Cherry G80) keyboard to harvest switches and keycaps

I'd prefer to build it myself. Also customs charges here are pretty reasonable, I pay about 5-15% of the item value usually

[tp4tissue]

um...

the Ergodox is for Advanced users only, who likes to tinker and explore NOT having wrist pain..


If you don't have wrist pain... and You type slowly or not much at all..  then It's not imperative that you even buy a mechanical keyboard to begin with...

Well then by all means disregard my Comment, and buy whatever the fvk you want to buy.. sheesh..

Just warning you about how advanced and Specific the ergodox is.... not for the feint of heart...

Wow, with comments like that you really come off sounding like an jerk.
It's up to him if he feels that he wants a mechanical keyboard. It has nothing to do with how many WPM he can type. He could do no typing on it at all, and might only use it for gaming.

The question he asked was; “I have just seen the ergodox kit on massdrop, and it looks like a good price. However, I have only soldered about 5 times (maybe 4-5 hours experience), do you think that the project would be too hard?”

I don't see where you answered his question, AND I clearly didn't see him ask you your opinion on anything but soldering.


With your last comment I can see that you are clearly an a$$hole

PS: if you're having a bad day or something, that happens to all of us. Just read your post a few times before sending it. Didn't your mother ever tell you; “if you don't have something nice to say, just keep your mouth shut”

PPS: I can't stand to see someone down talk someone else like that. We are all here because we like mechanical keyboards, so let's try to play nice

My point is, Ergodox is not easy...  and Most people simply can't handle it... it's not the n00ber plug and play experience most people are looking for...

That was my caution to new users..  Most n00bs will be better served by Quickfire Rapids.

It's quite obvious from my original post that I am not a "n00ber", otherwise I wouldn't consider this. I know it's not easy, that's why I bloody asked you condescending tw*t...

w/e bro.. if you think you can handle it.. go for it.. I'm just the messenger..

[davkol]

Buy a kit from czarek (FalbaTech), waiting time about two weeks, perhaps less; assembly is optional, although I do recommend at least the partial one, because dealing with connectors and sometimes diodes can be a PITA (satisfactory only if you're a masochist).

I'm not familiar with UK import fees, but I paid ****ing $320 for my MD kit (Czech import tax included, about $50 in this case). Here's what I'd do:
€110 for PCBs, electronics, Teensy and a PVC case from FalbaTech, shipped within Europe; preferably partially assembled (+ €15), which excludes only switches (I'd use switches with built-in diodes, maybe it could be possible to get a discount in that case)
about €30 (or possibly much less) for some old (Cherry G80) keyboard to harvest switches and keycaps

I'd prefer to build it myself. Also customs charges here are pretty reasonable, I pay about 5-15% of the item value usually

Well, my suggestion still comes out at least €15 cheaper even with a metal plate (and arguably a better case) and about a month faster, but feel free to pay MD and customs.

[gooseta]

Buy a kit from czarek (FalbaTech), waiting time about two weeks, perhaps less; assembly is optional, although I do recommend at least the partial one, because dealing with connectors and sometimes diodes can be a PITA (satisfactory only if you're a masochist).

I'm not familiar with UK import fees, but I paid ****ing $320 for my MD kit (Czech import tax included, about $50 in this case). Here's what I'd do:
€110 for PCBs, electronics, Teensy and a PVC case from FalbaTech, shipped within Europe; preferably partially assembled (+ €15), which excludes only switches (I'd use switches with built-in diodes, maybe it could be possible to get a discount in that case)
about €30 (or possibly much less) for some old (Cherry G80) keyboard to harvest switches and keycaps

Might buy it unassembled from them then, do they sell ergo keycaps?

I'd prefer to build it myself. Also customs charges here are pretty reasonable, I pay about 5-15% of the item value usually

Well, my suggestion still comes out at least €15 cheaper even with a metal plate (and arguably a better case) and about a month faster, but feel free to pay MD and customs.

[tp4tissue]

Buy a kit from czarek (FalbaTech), waiting time about two weeks, perhaps less; assembly is optional, although I do recommend at least the partial one, because dealing with connectors and sometimes diodes can be a PITA (satisfactory only if you're a masochist).

I'm not familiar with UK import fees, but I paid ****ing $320 for my MD kit (Czech import tax included, about $50 in this case). Here's what I'd do:
€110 for PCBs, electronics, Teensy and a PVC case from FalbaTech, shipped within Europe; preferably partially assembled (+ €15), which excludes only switches (I'd use switches with built-in diodes, maybe it could be possible to get a discount in that case)
about €30 (or possibly much less) for some old (Cherry G80) keyboard to harvest switches and keycaps

I'd prefer to build it myself. Also customs charges here are pretty reasonable, I pay about 5-15% of the item value usually

Well, my suggestion still comes out at least €15 cheaper even with a metal plate (and arguably a better case) and about a month faster, but feel free to pay MD and customs.

I would NOT harvest unless you're looking for Already Broken-in Smooth linear switches..

Harvesting is So much Extra work.

[AKmalamute]

I would NOT harvest unless you're looking for Already Broken-in Smooth linear switches..

Harvesting is So much Extra work.

Well, so is assembly ... and this person hasn't done that before, right? I say my first board was a phantom, but that's not precisely true ... I disassembled a WY60 to harvest switches cheaply so I could put them into a phantom. That experience put me in good shape to produce the ergodox...

[tp4tissue]

I would NOT harvest unless you're looking for Already Broken-in Smooth linear switches..

Harvesting is So much Extra work.

Well, so is assembly ... and this person hasn't done that before, right? I say my first board was a phantom, but that's not precisely true ... I disassembled a WY60 to harvest switches cheaply so I could put them into a phantom. That experience put me in good shape to produce the ergodox...

Ehy  , if you guys LIKE the poisonous soldering fumes...  so be it..  but  it's one of those things I put under  do-less-of   if I don't HAVE TO..

[davkol]

OP wants to do everything by himself, a bit of desoldering shouldn't be a problem then. Besides, I've bought 80 already havested switches for about €25 at Deskthority. The keyboard has the advantage of having stabilizers and keycaps as well; black G80-1800s/11900s are pretty nice in this regard.

gooseta, your comment is somehow broken.

[gooseta]

OP wants to do everything by himself, a bit of desoldering shouldn't be a problem then. Besides, I've bought 80 already havested switches for about €25 at Deskthority. The keyboard has the advantage of having stabilizers and keycaps as well; black G80-1800s/11900s are pretty nice in this regard.

gooseta, your comment is somehow broken.

I'm thinking of ordering the pcb, electronics etc at falbatech, then buying new switches either from here (http://deskthority.net/group-buys-f50/cherry-mx-taking-pre-orders-t2760.html) or in the UK, they're about 70p each. The only thing I'm not a fan of is the case, but if it's cheaper and can get here soon then I'll get it. What did you think of the case?

[davkol]

I've recently switched from acrylic to PVC case. The PVC one is much lighter, which I prefer for carrying around; sticking to the desk/tray is a matter of feet/stand anyway. It doesn't attract scratches and fingerprints (that much) either. I'm much happier with it overall.

I don't use a plate, because there's none for 80 keys AFAIK and the acrylic was way too thick for my tastes.

Post a WTB thread in the classifieds (here or at DT) and you can get switches for about two thirds or even one half the price of new. Cherry MX switches are better vintage or broken-in anyway.

[gooseta]

I've recently switched from acrylic to PVC case. The PVC one is much lighter, which I prefer for carrying around; sticking to the desk/tray is a matter of feet/stand anyway. It doesn't attract scratches and fingerprints (that much) either. I'm much happier with it overall.

I don't use a plate, because there's none for 80 keys AFAIK and the acrylic was way too thick for my tastes.

Post a WTB thread in the classifieds (here or at DT) and you can get switches for about two thirds or even one half the price of new. Cherry MX switches are better vintage or broken-in anyway.

Thanks for the info on the case. I think I'll be going with falba, but any suggestions where I can get keycaps for the rgo?

[davkol]

The default option is Signature Plastics: the sets from MD or PBT DSA sets from their Pimp My Keyboard store. However, I'm not a big fan of either, because DCS is very thin and it has quite sharp edges combined with an aggressive angle on the bottom row, and DSA is only medium thickness (better than DCS though), uniform profile (not always very ergonomic, especially in the thumb cluster) and very tight on switch stems (they're almost impossible to remove from MX Clear).

If you happen to have too much money to spend, group buys are great. Round 5, Granite and some others have featured ErgoDox sets. Pulse or something is currently running.

Or you can simply use any alphas (I'm typing on lasered Cherry PBT caps harvested from a Cherry G81 right now, and a Cherry POM set from a G80 is drying out next to me) and collect modifiers kinda randomly… or use a DSA modifier set from Pimp My Keyboard or something from SP's left-over inventory (such as SA). Again, if you start a WTB thread, getting some (even cheap) keycaps shouldn't be an issue.

[MAR82]

I would NOT harvest unless you're looking for Already Broken-in Smooth linear switches..

Harvesting is So much Extra work.

Well, so is assembly ... and this person hasn't done that before, right? I say my first board was a phantom, but that's not precisely true ... I disassembled a WY60 to harvest switches cheaply so I could put them into a phantom. That experience put me in good shape to produce the ergodox...

Ehy  , if you guys LIKE the poisonous soldering fumes...  so be it..  but  it's one of those things I put under  do-less-of   if I don't HAVE TO..

I agree with Tp on this, the less fumes the better. Also I don't see the need to save a few bucks on switches if you are going to spend the money on a Dox anyway.

Seeing that you don't do much soldering, I would suggest getting some small electronics kit to assemble first.
A few months ago I got a $3 digital clock before replacing all the switches on a board I had. It really helps warming up your skills on something you don't care about first.

As for the case I would also suggest Falba. I had a few issues with the full hand size (but he has told me that the problem is now fixed), but I really love the standard case he makes.

For keycaps; I just started to use my Dox. Right now I have some old OEM profile caps on it, and I don't really like how high they are, so i need to wait until my Granite (DSA) set gets here. Some people really like SA profile, so it's really a personal preference thing.

[mouse.the.lucky.dog]

Something to consider is that if you haven't been soldereing a lot mental fatigue may set in. You should have a plan to avoid that.

[gooseta]

I would NOT harvest unless you're looking for Already Broken-in Smooth linear switches..

Harvesting is So much Extra work.

Well, so is assembly ... and this person hasn't done that before, right? I say my first board was a phantom, but that's not precisely true ... I disassembled a WY60 to harvest switches cheaply so I could put them into a phantom. That experience put me in good shape to produce the ergodox...

Ehy  , if you guys LIKE the poisonous soldering fumes...  so be it..  but  it's one of those things I put under  do-less-of   if I don't HAVE TO..

I agree with Tp on this, the less fumes the better. Also I don't see the need to save a few bucks on switches if you are going to spend the money on a Dox anyway.

Seeing that you don't do much soldering, I would suggest getting some small electronics kit to assemble first.
A few months ago I got a $3 digital clock before replacing all the switches on a board I had. It really helps warming up your skills on something you don't care about first.

As for the case I would also suggest Falba. I had a few issues with the full hand size (but he has told me that the problem is now fixed), but I really love the standard case he makes.

For keycaps; I just started to use my Dox. Right now I have some old OEM profile caps on it, and I don't really like how high they are, so i need to wait until my Granite (DSA) set gets here. Some people really like SA profile, so it's really a personal preference thing.

Yea, I will be buying new greens or clears. I'm condsidering the pulse sa set but it'll take ages to get here, and the keyboard wont take long... maybe I'll just get sone alphas like you did

[frosty]

WhiteFireDragon makes pretty good videos.

[Arcoril]

I would NOT harvest unless you're looking for Already Broken-in Smooth linear switches..

Harvesting is So much Extra work.

Well, so is assembly ... and this person hasn't done that before, right? I say my first board was a phantom, but that's not precisely true ... I disassembled a WY60 to harvest switches cheaply so I could put them into a phantom. That experience put me in good shape to produce the ergodox...

Ehy  , if you guys LIKE the poisonous soldering fumes...  so be it..  but  it's one of those things I put under  do-less-of   if I don't HAVE TO..

I agree with Tp on this, the less fumes the better. Also I don't see the need to save a few bucks on switches if you are going to spend the money on a Dox anyway.

Seeing that you don't do much soldering, I would suggest getting some small electronics kit to assemble first.
A few months ago I got a $3 digital clock before replacing all the switches on a board I had. It really helps warming up your skills on something you don't care about first.

As for the case I would also suggest Falba. I had a few issues with the full hand size (but he has told me that the problem is now fixed), but I really love the standard case he makes.

For keycaps; I just started to use my Dox. Right now I have some old OEM profile caps on it, and I don't really like how high they are, so i need to wait until my Granite (DSA) set gets here. Some people really like SA profile, so it's really a personal preference thing.

Yea, I will be buying new greens or clears. I'm condsidering the pulse sa set but it'll take ages to get here, and the keyboard wont take long... maybe I'll just get sone alphas like you did

I'm really looking forward to Pulse on the ErgoDox. I like that it uses a 1-2-3-4-3 row profile as opposed to the numerous uniform row 3 sets that came before it. It's even better because the ErgoDox modifiers match the 1-2-3-4-3 profile too. I think it'll look incredible with a matching black aluminum top plate and some cyan braided TRRS/USB cables.

[tp4tissue]

I would NOT harvest unless you're looking for Already Broken-in Smooth linear switches..

Harvesting is So much Extra work.

Well, so is assembly ... and this person hasn't done that before, right? I say my first board was a phantom, but that's not precisely true ... I disassembled a WY60 to harvest switches cheaply so I could put them into a phantom. That experience put me in good shape to produce the ergodox...

Ehy  , if you guys LIKE the poisonous soldering fumes...  so be it..  but  it's one of those things I put under  do-less-of   if I don't HAVE TO..

I agree with Tp on this, the less fumes the better. Also I don't see the need to save a few bucks on switches if you are going to spend the money on a Dox anyway.

Seeing that you don't do much soldering, I would suggest getting some small electronics kit to assemble first.
A few months ago I got a $3 digital clock before replacing all the switches on a board I had. It really helps warming up your skills on something you don't care about first.

As for the case I would also suggest Falba. I had a few issues with the full hand size (but he has told me that the problem is now fixed), but I really love the standard case he makes.

For keycaps; I just started to use my Dox. Right now I have some old OEM profile caps on it, and I don't really like how high they are, so i need to wait until my Granite (DSA) set gets here. Some people really like SA profile, so it's really a personal preference thing.

Yea, I will be buying new greens or clears. I'm condsidering the pulse sa set but it'll take ages to get here, and the keyboard wont take long... maybe I'll just get sone alphas like you did

I'm really looking forward to Pulse on the ErgoDox. I like that it uses a 1-2-3-4-3 row profile as opposed to the numerous uniform row 3 sets that came before it. It's even better because the ErgoDox modifiers match the 1-2-3-4-3 profile too. I think it'll look incredible with a matching black aluminum top plate and some cyan braided TRRS/USB cables.

what is pulse-on-the-ergodox..

[MAR82]

I would NOT harvest unless you're looking for Already Broken-in Smooth linear switches..

Harvesting is So much Extra work.

Well, so is assembly ... and this person hasn't done that before, right? I say my first board was a phantom, but that's not precisely true ... I disassembled a WY60 to harvest switches cheaply so I could put them into a phantom. That experience put me in good shape to produce the ergodox...

Ehy  , if you guys LIKE the poisonous soldering fumes...  so be it..  but  it's one of those things I put under  do-less-of   if I don't HAVE TO..

I agree with Tp on this, the less fumes the better. Also I don't see the need to save a few bucks on switches if you are going to spend the money on a Dox anyway.

Seeing that you don't do much soldering, I would suggest getting some small electronics kit to assemble first.
A few months ago I got a $3 digital clock before replacing all the switches on a board I had. It really helps warming up your skills on something you don't care about first.

As for the case I would also suggest Falba. I had a few issues with the full hand size (but he has told me that the problem is now fixed), but I really love the standard case he makes.

For keycaps; I just started to use my Dox. Right now I have some old OEM profile caps on it, and I don't really like how high they are, so i need to wait until my Granite (DSA) set gets here. Some people really like SA profile, so it's really a personal preference thing.

Yea, I will be buying new greens or clears. I'm condsidering the pulse sa set but it'll take ages to get here, and the keyboard wont take long... maybe I'll just get sone alphas like you did

I'm really looking forward to Pulse on the ErgoDox. I like that it uses a 1-2-3-4-3 row profile as opposed to the numerous uniform row 3 sets that came before it. It's even better because the ErgoDox modifiers match the 1-2-3-4-3 profile too. I think it'll look incredible with a matching black aluminum top plate and some cyan braided TRRS/USB cables.

what is pulse-on-the-ergodox..

It's a group buy that is running on pimpmykeyboard.com right now and they have a Halfadox kit for it http://www.pimpmykeyboard.com/deals/pulse-keyset/

[tp4tissue]

I would NOT harvest unless you're looking for Already Broken-in Smooth linear switches..

Harvesting is So much Extra work.

Well, so is assembly ... and this person hasn't done that before, right? I say my first board was a phantom, but that's not precisely true ... I disassembled a WY60 to harvest switches cheaply so I could put them into a phantom. That experience put me in good shape to produce the ergodox...

Ehy  , if you guys LIKE the poisonous soldering fumes...  so be it..  but  it's one of those things I put under  do-less-of   if I don't HAVE TO..

I agree with Tp on this, the less fumes the better. Also I don't see the need to save a few bucks on switches if you are going to spend the money on a Dox anyway.

Seeing that you don't do much soldering, I would suggest getting some small electronics kit to assemble first.
A few months ago I got a $3 digital clock before replacing all the switches on a board I had. It really helps warming up your skills on something you don't care about first.

As for the case I would also suggest Falba. I had a few issues with the full hand size (but he has told me that the problem is now fixed), but I really love the standard case he makes.

For keycaps; I just started to use my Dox. Right now I have some old OEM profile caps on it, and I don't really like how high they are, so i need to wait until my Granite (DSA) set gets here. Some people really like SA profile, so it's really a personal preference thing.

Yea, I will be buying new greens or clears. I'm condsidering the pulse sa set but it'll take ages to get here, and the keyboard wont take long... maybe I'll just get sone alphas like you did

I'm really looking forward to Pulse on the ErgoDox. I like that it uses a 1-2-3-4-3 row profile as opposed to the numerous uniform row 3 sets that came before it. It's even better because the ErgoDox modifiers match the 1-2-3-4-3 profile too. I think it'll look incredible with a matching black aluminum top plate and some cyan braided TRRS/USB cables.

what is pulse-on-the-ergodox..

It's a group buy that is running on pimpmykeyboard.com right now and they have a Halfadox kit for it http://www.pimpmykeyboard.com/deals/pulse-keyset/

$44 for a whole dox.. LOLOLOL... yikes..

[Firebolt1914]

I have no soldering experiences, yet I'm building a JD40. I don't see what could go wrong

[gooseta]

WhiteFireDragon makes pretty good videos.

Yea, I've watched his video about hot air soldering smd diodes and also his ergodox assembly vid.

[Arcoril]

$44 for a whole dox.. LOLOLOL... yikes..

Yeah, it's steep right now. But if just a few more people buy it that price drops to $26. If 50 sets sell that price even drops to $20.

[davkol]

It's only modifiers though, If I understand it correctly.