Anybody having any issues with the LED brightness being uneven?

I had 3-4 letters with considerably weaker illumination. I exchanged for a different board and now have 2 numbers and a letter with the same issue.

Other than the lighting issue I like the board, but I know it will drive me nuts….

Any evenly lit boards out there? Wonder if I'm too picky?

Whenever you have 104 parts, some of them are not going to be exactly like the others. Electronic components have tolerances, and can be off by a bit. The more parts you have, the more chances for one or two to be off.

If  you really, really want an evenly backlit board you could get a backlit rubber dome with 6-12 LEDs. Or a real cheapy with just one sheet of chemiluminescent foil, though good luck keeping that glowing for more than a week.




Ooooorrr find out the specs of the LEDs and buy a dozen replacements to solder in. Or play RMA tag with XArmor, though that wouldn't be kind seeing as each board you return is a board they have to repackage and sell as open box later on, with no profit and the cost of shipping. They're not a high-volume company like Logitech or Razer.

No noticeable LED variance on my U9BL.

Anybody having any issues with the LED brightness being uneven?

I had 3-4 letters with considerably weaker illumination. I exchanged for a different board and now have 2 numbers and a letter with the same issue.

Other than the lighting issue I like the board, but I know it will drive me nuts….

Any evenly lit boards out there? Wonder if I'm too picky?

 

You are not too picky, but you have to keep in mind that led with stricter tolerances are costly, maybe even 50 /80 cents per led, when you need 106 of them this matters.

If you don't want to pay a backlit board like a topre you must accept that leds get dimmer with time and a small percentage of them get dimmer quicker than others

All my U9BL-S leds are even and working.

Wait... Now none of my U9BL-S leds are working. :-(

Oups... Silly me, I forgot that the leds are turned off after reboots. I must turn them back on. They're working again. :-)

Maybe it's a soldering problem like in the M10s.

 
Soldering are perfect on xarmor, as you can easily see looking at the shots I published when I bought the board.

Your board and mine are soldered well enough, have no failed LEDs. Perhaps the reason that OCN weenies are having problems with LEDs is that they have PCBs which are not soldered properly--like early M10s--and need some TLC like my Scorpius M10 did.

 

Hardly a bad soldered led become just dim, and if it happen light will be sensible to vibrations, it will blink, it will be sometimes lit sometimes not, but not dim.

And if for a coincidence this will happen, surely doesn't happen to two leds on the same board.

In that case the user is simply facing the normal tolerance of any consumer electronic component.

Just check any cherry board with ripometer, you will find that one or two switches are stiffer or softer, or less tactile than others.

When the absolute availability of a component is needed, industrial or military grade components are available, but at a price.

The fuel indicator of your car is less important than the one of a 747, indeed the former cost few dollars while the latter cost about 30000$

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That's how it came from the factory? Looks like this part was reworked by hand, by someone whose soldering isn't too much more impressive than mine. (And I usually don't see very well what I'm doing.)

Looks like this part was reworked by hand, by someone whose soldering isn't too much more impressive than mine.

 

Not reworked, just finished by hand (or by a different hand).

Clearly the worker that made those soldering was likely on its second day of training