Author Topic: Lubing Switches (Read 11936 times)

TheProfosist · « **on:** Tue, 25 October 2011, 00:59:55 »

I was wondering if I would have to take the whole switch apart to lube it. I currently have the White Lithium Grease that WASD recommended for the stabilizers would this work inside the switch?

c0rbin · « **Reply #1 on:** Tue, 25 October 2011, 01:17:11 »

You don't need to disassemble anything. Just squirt the grease into the gaps between the keys and play a few Typeracer matches to work it in.

Seriously though, your question makes no sense to me. The grease for the stabilizers goes at the two points of contact between plastic and metal - one where the stabilizer connects to the keyboard in the "clips" and another where the stabilizer connects to the key. I'm not sure what you mean by "taking apart the whole key" or any of these shenanigans about lubing the "inside of the key."

TheProfosist · « **Reply #2 on:** Tue, 25 October 2011, 01:32:56 »

I want to lube the switch my bad...

c0rbin · « **Reply #3 on:** Tue, 25 October 2011, 01:36:32 »

I think we need an expert to speak on this as I am green to the keyboard hobby, but I don't believe Cherry MX switches benefit from lube. If anything, it may hurt them.

It would be nice if the "plunger" thing (lol, don't know what else to call it) fit more tightly against the walls of the switch to reduce play in the keys. Ideally you would want to reduce play without increasing friction, which I suppose could be done by enlarging the plunger and adding lube or by devising some kind of slot mechanism. But now we are talking about the switch design and that goes way beyond merely lubing the switches.

My advice is to get these fanciful ideas of lubing the switches out of your head at once.

TheProfosist · « **Reply #4 on:** Tue, 25 October 2011, 01:38:30 »

Quote from: c0rbin;438706

I think we need an expert to speak on this as I am green to the keyboard hobby, but I don't believe Cherry MX switches benefit from lube. If anything, it may hurt them.

It would be nice if the "plunger" thing (lol, don't know what else to call it) fit more tightly against the walls of the switch to reduce play in the keys.

thats what I was wondering my self the only reason I considered this is that my Rosewills Cherry Blue switches feel scratchy compared to my WASDs Cherry Blue switches.

c0rbin · « **Reply #5 on:** Tue, 25 October 2011, 01:42:55 »

Hmmm... that's interesting. Maybe I'm talking nonsense and WASD actually lubes their switches. I do know that they go the extra mile in the assembly process so it wouldn't surprise me if they did. If not, the difference is probably due to some other beneficial assembly procedure that WASD goes through. Adjusting the springs could have something to do with it...

TheProfosist · « **Reply #6 on:** Tue, 25 October 2011, 01:43:15 »

Ripster's sig does mention opening up the keys and addiing lube but im wondering wether its possible to do without doing that

TheProfosist · « **Reply #7 on:** Tue, 25 October 2011, 01:44:38 »

Quote from: c0rbin;438711

Hmmm... that's interesting. Maybe I'm talking nonsense and WASD actually lubes their switches. I do know that they go the extra mile in the assembly process so it wouldn't surprise me if they did. If not, the difference is probably due to some other beneficial assembly procedure that WASD goes through. Adjusting the springs could have something to do with it...

I know he doesnt take apart the switches so if he did lube the switches it would either have been done at the factory or without opening the switch at his warehouse before he ships.

c0rbin · « **Reply #8 on:** Tue, 25 October 2011, 01:46:10 »

So you CAN lube the switch. I stand corrected... interesting... makes me want to do it.

TheProfosist · « **Reply #9 on:** Tue, 25 October 2011, 01:47:18 »

Quote from: c0rbin;438717

So you CAN lube the switch. I stand corrected... interesting... makes me want to do it.

same here I just dont want to crack open a brand new board and desolder switches as the Rosewills are plate mounted.

hashbaz · « **Reply #10 on:** Tue, 25 October 2011, 02:37:07 »

Ripster has a thread about lubing here.

There was also some discussion in this (unrelated) thread about lubing stems.

hashbaz · « **Reply #11 on:** Wed, 26 October 2011, 15:03:03 »

TheProfist, did you end up lubing your Rosewill's switches? Where did you get your lithium grease?

laffindude · « **Reply #12 on:** Wed, 26 October 2011, 15:35:09 »

Any automotive store should have it, and few bucks will last you a life time if you use it on keyboard only.

TheProfosist · « **Reply #13 on:** Thu, 27 October 2011, 00:35:00 »

Quote from: hashbaz;439913

TheProfist, did you end up lubing your Rosewill's switches? Where did you get your lithium grease?

yes I ended up lubing. Not the switches though I lubed the stabilizers with the white lithium grease. I lubed the stabilizer inserts where the wire goes in, the wires where they snap into the board, and the board part where the stabilizer inserts slide. I got it in the automotive department of the local FleetFarm. I used a syringe to apply then a very fine flat paint brush to apply. I also sprayed a small amount of DeoxIT into the switch as recommended by ripster. I think I sprayed a bit too much into a few switches but ill see what happens when it dries out. I recommend getting the stuff off Amazon you can also get a very small bottle from a local RadioShack if your in a hurry but it only does one full size keyboard.

c0rbin · « **Reply #14 on:** Thu, 27 October 2011, 00:42:15 »

DeOxit, eh? I use that stuff to clean the controls on my vintage receiver...

They also make DeOxit with lube... look for Faderlube F100. Perhaps that would work if you are trying to grease the switches.

hashbaz · « **Reply #15 on:** Thu, 27 October 2011, 00:43:02 »

Did the DeoxIT help your scratchy switches? I ask because my new Rosewill feels scratchy too.

TheProfosist · « **Reply #16 on:** Thu, 27 October 2011, 00:44:04 »

Quote from: c0rbin;440289

DeOxit, eh? I use that stuff to clean the controls on my vintage receiver...

They also make DeOxit with lube... look for Faderlube F100. Perhaps that would work if you are trying to grease the switches.

read that it is for plastic. Read more on them form this http://tinyurl.com/6epb2bq

TheProfosist · « **Reply #17 on:** Thu, 27 October 2011, 00:48:59 »

Quote from: hashbaz;440290

Did the DeoxIT help your scratchy switches? I ask because my new Rosewill feels scratchy too.

Will let you know once I do it to my Rosewill. I actually did this to my WASD while I had it apart because I got the board used and then bought new keys a stabilizers to nothing was lubed. They do feel smoother but I will let you know in a few days because like I said after using the DeoxIT I think that I got a bit too much in some of the switches and they are not clicking nearly as loudly as before. For the Rosewills I am waiting until I get all the parts in so that I only have to take the keys off once (ordered new keys and o-rings).

TheProfosist · « **Reply #18 on:** Fri, 04 November 2011, 00:14:22 »

I picked up a few DeoxIT products, D5, F5, F100. F100 is the ideal thing to use (besides opening up each switch and applying DeoxIT FaderGrease) and will work on any switch that doesnt have the slider that makes a click. For the switches that do have the slider F100 is too thick and doesnt allow the switch to click. F5 works fine and took the scratchiness out of my Rosewill Blues but the click is slightly less pronounced. I used F100 on my Rosewill reds which went from slightly scratchy to buttery smooth.

Also currently I am lubing the stabilizers with White Lithium Grease per WASD's advice but I did notice that CAIG makes some DeoxIT Grease in both Mineral and Lithium variates (pdf of full DeoxIT line). Which of the available greases would be better? I believe WASD mentioned mineral grease having more longevity.

sordna · « **Reply #19 on:** Fri, 04 November 2011, 00:51:17 »

This DuPont Teflon Non-Stick Dry-Film Lubricant seems good and cheap:
http://www.amazon.com/DuPont-Non-Stick-Dry-Film-Lubricant-DNS610101/dp/B003UTX0R8

It's based on isopropyl alcohol which is safe for plastics and dries fast.
From the DuPont site:
A unique dry-film lubricant that leaves a micro-thin, pure Teflon® fluoropolymer coating.
Goes on wet to penetrate, then sets up with a clean, dry, white micro-thin coating
Non-staining film bonds to most surfaces
Lubricates parts to reduce sticking and squeaking
Thin coating is excellent for tight tolerances and sliding tracks
Helps materials resist chemical contaminants or water
Acts as a protective coating for metal, plastic and rubber

godly_music · « **Reply #20 on:** Fri, 04 November 2011, 05:46:42 »

Check your keyboard again in a year. There'll probably be some gunk that the lube attracted. I ended up cleaning it thoroughly and trying again with Teflon spray which doesn't attract dust.

But, in all honesty, the switches don't feel smoother. Stick with the stabilizers, that'll save you a lot of pointless work.

N8N · « **Reply #21 on:** Fri, 04 November 2011, 08:53:17 »

I used a product similar to that which sordna posted on the stems of two keyboards... not that there was any particular reason to do so, but I had buckets of stems already out (I was doing a swap of clear stems from a POS board that I had set up as ergo clears into a Filco, and reinstalling the original brown stems in the POS board) and figured it couldn't hurt.

I can't say whether it is due to the lube or the fact that I was using used stems, but the Filco definitely feels smoother than my Leopold with clears. The POS board feels nice too although I have been using my Noppoo (also with browns) at home, and the more I use the latter, the smoother it feels, so there might be something of a breaking-in process going on here too.

hashbaz · « **Reply #22 on:** Fri, 04 November 2011, 08:56:01 »

On ripster's advice, I held off on lubing the switches of my new blue Rosewill, and it has indeed gotten smoother over time.

TheProfosist · « **Reply #23 on:** Wed, 09 November 2011, 17:01:15 »

I got DeoxIT Fader F5 and FaderGrease today plan to use it on a Rosewill board with blues once I get the syringes.

sordna · « **Reply #24 on:** Sat, 03 December 2011, 16:02:04 »

Has anyone tried Deoxit F5 Spray and F100 Spray on red MX cherries? How do they compare? Not sure which one I should get.

sordna · « **Reply #25 on:** Sat, 03 December 2011, 17:01:13 »

Quote from: ripster;463572

Check the lubrication thread in my subforum. I added some more pics. I'd go with F5.

I was thinking about the F5 too, but TheProfosist said the F100 is ideal (except for blues) and makes reds buttery smooth. I'd like a comparison from any folks who tried BOTH sprays on reds over a couple of weeks at least. I'm watching your subforum thread too.
BTW I ordered the thin Dupont Dry Lube, I'm going to try it on reds and some really ancient/scratchy browns of an old Kinesis.

sordna · « **Reply #26 on:** Sat, 03 December 2011, 19:46:01 »

I have a StrongArm Brand penetrating oil / rust remover around the house, that I dripped into 2 of my Poker's red MX switches which were a bit noisy / frictiony, and they became smoother and quieter than the rest. That was over 2 months ago and the lube effect is still there. Some soaked onto the PCB but I wiped most of it. Dry teflon lube should be even safer. We shall see.

godofdeath · « **Reply #27 on:** Sun, 04 December 2011, 11:59:30 »

so deoxit would be used to lube the actual switches itself?

the piece that makes contact with the gold leaf inside?

sordna · « **Reply #28 on:** Sun, 04 December 2011, 18:25:52 »

Quote from: ripster;463665

Good luck! I tested two DryLubes but haven't gotten around to posting pics yet. They seem to all be pretty comparable.

How do the dry lubes compare to wet ones like Deoxit ?

TheProfosist · « **Reply #29 on:** Mon, 05 December 2011, 08:45:39 »

Quote from: sordna;463561

Has anyone tried Deoxit F5 Spray and F100 Spray on red MX cherries? How do they compare? Not sure which one I should get.

Go with F100 for Reds more lube the better!

sordna · « **Reply #30 on:** Sat, 10 December 2011, 14:16:31 »

Quote from: TheProfosist;464413

Go with F100 for Reds more lube the better!

Which F100 did you use, the spray or the F100L needle dispenser (dropper) ? Trying to decide which would be better to use on mounted switches (I have no intention of de-soldering and opening them up).

TheProfosist · « **Reply #31 on:** Sat, 10 December 2011, 22:02:55 »

Quote from: sordna;467851

Which F100 did you use, the spray or the F100L needle dispenser (dropper) ? Trying to decide which would be better to use on mounted switches (I have no intention of de-soldering and opening them up).

I used the spray the dropper is significantly more expensive I believe. I also lube the stabilizers with FaderGrease using a dental syringe like the on EK has.

TheProfosist · « **Reply #32 on:** Tue, 20 December 2011, 14:40:32 »

When I put together the Ergo Clears for my DOX and Phantom I plan to clean off the parts using D5 then try the F100L when they are apart and see what kind of difference it makes.

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Author Topic: Lubing Switches (Read 11936 times)