Okay, I've decided it's logical to buy a mechanical keyboard that will last a LONG time, will I need hhkb or realforce just for that extra level of durability(if they're even famous for that)? or can I find regular brown switch with a very good durability for a cheaper price... I'd like this to last me at least 5 years

in no particular order

0. Solid build quality; little to no keycap rattle, solid quality feel to it
1. Prefer it to be brown switch
2. Strongly prefer keycaps to be replaceable(in case it breaks or w.e)
3. A good design? I need to be able to clean it easy for when **** gets stuck underneath although this may not be an issue for higher end designs (dont know if all mech keyboards are much easier to clean than non-mech as much; current keyboard gets heapsa **** stuck underneath and its a BIG pain to fully clean)
4. I'd prefer it to be <$200
5. I don't mind Otaku(its badass)
6. Strongly prefer no num pad(waste of space), so a compact design would be nice as long as the other keys aren't too cramped
7. if your going to recommend topre can you tell me the difference between brown and topre (briefly) because I'm a fast typer and would like the resistance force to be minimal but i'd like to know when I go past actuation point(that's why i don't want red switch)
8. media key shortcuts would be nice like next track, pause, volume etc... but this isn't really necessarily and technically any keyboard can be programmed to do this, can't it?

I'm asking myself the same question since a few days as im going to buy my first mechanical keyboard.
So i focused on two devices: Cherry G80-3000LSC and some IBM Model M.
Would be nice if somebody experienced can give me a hint what's the pros and cons when you compare them.

For brown i would say leopold. I want to say Ducky but the imprints tend to fade quickly. Other than that Ducky and Filco are up there as well. The other thing to consider is the stabilizers and spacebar. Ducky uses MX black, at least the 9008 version.

If you're going just for tank-like durability, get a Model M, possibly a Space Saver if you can find one for a decent price. However, you mention that you'd like brown switches, and you type quickly and would like minimal resistance. Due to that, I think you should be looking at the more well-known (and higher quality) TKL boards. Leopold is what I have, seeing as it's a great TKL board for the price, but do remember that it has a proprietary spacebar, so that would limit your replacing it,say, if it started to shine. I found that Leopold keys are amazingly resistant to shining, but that might just be my board. Filco's definitely a great choice, probably what I'd recommend, although pretty expensive, relative to other Cherry brown boards. You might also wish to look into the higher-end Duckys, but I personally have no experience with them.

In general, though, mechanical keyboards tend to be much higher quality than rubber domes. You needn't worry too much over the durability of it, get one mostly for the feel.

Any experiences with the quality of rf topre vs a leopold or filco?

I have an IBM Model M (buckling spring) and a Compaq MX 11800 (brown switch), both are near 30 years old, and still working. I will put them on my will to leave them to my children.

can you compare the feel of noppoo choc to filco? which feels more solid, nicer to type?

I find the standard layout feels better but used a brown filco vs a red noppoo. The filco is sturdier and feels just a little bit better, the noppoo keys feel a bit more unstable. The outer casing also feels more 'together' on the filco. Realisticly there's no reason not to get a Noppoo if you like the layout as the feel will be simmilar for the same switch type. I'd buy another of both if I had the cash. These are mostly opinions though so take them with a grain of salt.

TypeNow Solid is Pretty Solid

model m with double floss mod = brown feel. Done and done.

Model M hands down I suppose

Have to add something to this, I previosly agreed with this post, but if not Model M, then a nice Unicomp will be no less than a tank that the original Model M is.

Topre = 30 million key life cycle
Cherry = 50 million key life cycle

Topre fans must be outraged...
I understand that Topre fans would find any reason to make their keyboard feel more worth it but Cherry have be tested and proven through time.

Probably using a machine to press the key to the point of failure spanning over 1000 switches and take the average?
But one thing for sure, switches will fail from mechanical failure once over it's normal operation frequency. Hz or number of actuation per second.

I wonder if our benevolent Ripster will make such a machine someday to end this myth and add it to the wiki.

I really want to get a filco brown but I came across this post "Not only Topre beat Filco in the quality department hands down, the Topre switches absolutely destroy browns. I just don't get their popularity, I guess I'm in the minority. "

I know its just an opinion, but can anyone disagree with this? As that guy implies the durability/quality is on another level...

Here is my opinion on Topre vs Cherry.

Pros of Topre:
- Topre has better keycaps and their lettering doesn't stain or peel off like filco. (Topre use dye sub method)
- Relatively problem free. (I seldom hear a case where Topre board doesn't work properly, whereas chattering is pretty common in Cherry)
- Quality you can expect from things made in Japan.

Cons of Topre:
- Expensive like most of things made in Japan.
- Rubber ages relatively quickly compared to parts in Cherry switches and there is nothing a user can do to stop this or mitigate the issue(no replacement parts). The only parts available to users are keycaps and they are very expensive.
- Not as durable as Cherry (30million key strokes vs 50mil; after some time of use friction builds up whereas frictions in Cherry switches are rarely an issue.)

Despite the cons, I chose Topre as my main board. I learned how to lube and take care of my Topre, so some of the cons are not as much a deal. And I prefer rubber to spring because springs push harder as you press them and I don't like it.

I'd like this to last me at least 5 years

As long as you don't spill anything on it, you should get 5 years out of any mech keyboard.  I've seen 80 000 hours listed as mean time between failures on cherry pos boards.  That's over 9 years of constant use.

If you're like us, you'll find it difficult to pick your first board, but it gets easier for your 2nd, 3rd, 4th...  

If you can't try before you buy, get something cheap on ebay and if you don't like it, sell it on.

Here is my opinion on Topre vs Cherry.

Pros of Topre:
- Topre has better keycaps and their lettering doesn't stain or peel off like filco. (Topre use dye sub method)

Topre might have better STOCK keycaps since it uses PBT ones (except SPACE which is ABS..), but when it comes to aftermarket keycaps Cherry has an edge because there are more Group Buys for MX boards, more options and Cherry keycaps are cheaper (PBT obviously too).

Although it fits almost none of your criteria, I hear that the Thermaltake Meka G1 is one of the most solidly built boards available (except for the wrist wrest). Only problem for you is that it is full size and MX Blacks. In all seriousness, just get a Filco. It should last your five years, and will be a great board if the quality is like my Das (which I hear is comparable)