Post by: skullydazed on Sun, 15 November 2015, 23:13:38
https://clueboard.co/parts/clueboard-66-pcb
https://clueboard.co/parts/clueboard-66-pcb-version-20
Here's an overview of all the layouts it currently supports:
(http://i.imgur.com/YS8mlID.png)
The PCB is fully programmable with QMK and it is officially part of the main QMK branch:
https://github.com/jackhumbert/qmk_firmware
New Feature: Underlighting!
Now you can make your keyboard glow with the fury of 14 suns. Simply solder on 14 WS2812B LED's (https://www.sparkfun.com/products/13667) and you can light up your desk.
(http://i.imgur.com/kH6IbGR.gif)
Please feel free to ask any questions or provide any feedback you may have in this thread.
Post by: potatowire on Thu, 19 November 2015, 20:52:23
Post by: njbair on Thu, 19 November 2015, 21:17:05
Post by: SpAmRaY on Thu, 19 November 2015, 21:30:13
Post by: neverused on Thu, 19 November 2015, 22:40:36
Post by: Acknown3 on Fri, 20 November 2015, 00:11:42
What about plates?Skully posted this on Reddit 11 days ago, but I'm not sure if it's still valid;
Quote
I'm still working out pricing. Parts for my 66% board will start at around $150 for acrylic plate, acrylic case, pcb, zealios switches and costar stabilizers (everything except for caps and a USB cable) and then assembly will be an additional charge on top of that I have yet to determine, but I want to make it affordable.
...
I'll have aluminum plates too but acrylic will be the cheapest way to get one.
Post by: skullydazed on Fri, 20 November 2015, 00:33:13
What about plates?Skully posted this on Reddit 11 days ago, but I'm not sure if it's still valid;QuoteI'm still working out pricing. Parts for my 66% board will start at around $150 for acrylic plate, acrylic case, pcb, zealios switches and costar stabilizers (everything except for caps and a USB cable) and then assembly will be an additional charge on top of that I have yet to determine, but I want to make it affordable.
...
I'll have aluminum plates too but acrylic will be the cheapest way to get one.
That's exactly right. I got my first samples back today:
(http://i.imgur.com/nTUiqRG.jpg)
Still waiting on the Alps plates, and I just finished designing the plates that fit the standard fc660m case. Tomorrow I'll laser cut some acrylic to test fit and then submit my order for those plates. I'll also be dropping the plates you see off at the finishing shop where they'll doing the following:
* 5 bead blasted + black anodizing
* 2 polished + blue anodizing
* 2 polished + red anodizing
* 1 polished to a mirror finish
Besides my prototype plates I've been talking to LeandreN about a larger run of plates, which should mean a significant price break.
Post by: Jokrik on Sat, 21 November 2015, 18:35:29
Will be following this very closely
Post by: njbair on Sat, 21 November 2015, 18:45:03
What does MX keycap compatibility look like for this layout? Pretty much any set?
Post by: skullydazed on Sun, 22 November 2015, 08:15:20
I don't have an acrylic board yet. This might be a good first one.
What does MX keycap compatibility look like for this layout? Pretty much any set?
It will depend on the layout you build. For a standard ANSI build pretty much any set with two 2.25u shifts will work. For ISO or JIS it's actually slightly easier because your shifts can be 1.25/2.25.
Post by: vivalarevolución on Sat, 28 November 2015, 14:09:13
Post by: njbair on Sat, 28 November 2015, 14:14:45
Post by: skullydazed on Sat, 28 November 2015, 15:42:29
Do we know for sure when/if Massdrop will be running that alu case again? Or is it available elsewhere?
I have a few on hand but I'm hoping to track down the manufacturer.
Post by: wakko on Sat, 28 November 2015, 16:14:08
Post by: skullydazed on Sat, 28 November 2015, 17:12:51
Will different versions of the plate be cut for different layout options?
The MX plate is universal with PCB mount stabs:
(http://i.imgur.com/tfDc31y.jpg)
The Alps plate will be ANSI only for now, but if I find some good ISO keysets I'll offer that in an
Post by: trenzafeeds on Sat, 28 November 2015, 21:29:58
Post by: skullydazed on Sat, 28 November 2015, 23:51:23
Wow, it took me forever to figure out that layout diagram. It'll be really awesome to have an alps-compatible fc660, really glad you took alps into account, because that's a really big selling point imo. Also will be super nice to have this layout on a fully programmable pcb, because honestly I feel that that little right hand key cluster could be used a bit better (at least in terms of what I use on a daily basis).
I've been trying to figure out a better way to explain the possible layouts. Soon I should have physical examples which I think helps, at least for some people.
I'm glad the alps compatibility is getting so much love. Part of what's driving me here is the idea of having an AEKII-like board with the fc660 layout. I have an AEKII with salmon alps that's going to be turned into a clueboard once I have metal alps plates in hand.
Post by: Cods on Tue, 01 December 2015, 04:22:04
Alps... now that's interesting.
Post by: kinglukas38 on Tue, 01 December 2015, 15:14:38
Post by: skullydazed on Tue, 01 December 2015, 18:17:57
If this had full led support it would be my endgame
I actually started with fully controllable LED support, but the problem I ran into was too many traces, so I couldn't support PCB mount stabs. I'm working on a version that solves that, but it'll be a few months before that one is ready. :cool:
Post by: skullydazed on Tue, 01 December 2015, 18:35:49
(http://i.imgur.com/3m9wG4D.jpg)
Here's a picture of the 6th iteration, just before I got it right:
(http://i.imgur.com/HfQYJp9.jpg)
The version 1.0 PCB fits into the aluminum case perfectly with very little room for movement. It's actually a little tricky (and kinda scary) to get the PCB seated properly in the case, but once you do it fits very firmly and there is no rattle at all. I have made that hole just a tiny bit bigger for version 1.1.
Now it's time to send these designs off to LeandreN so he can make plates!
Post by: kinglukas38 on Wed, 02 December 2015, 00:20:41
If this had full led support it would be my endgame
I actually started with fully controllable LED support, but the problem I ran into was too many traces, so I couldn't support PCB mount stabs. I'm working on a version that solves that, but it'll be a few months before that one is ready. :cool:
Thank you for saving my wallet for a few months :p. God knows it needs a break
Post by: iss on Sat, 05 December 2015, 15:35:41
Post by: skullydazed on Sat, 05 December 2015, 18:06:16
Will you be selling 4u stabilizers separately? They're almost impossible to find.
On my todo list is building a jig to bend 6.25u stabs. Once I have that going doing 4u stabs as well should be possible.
Post by: BaconEggandCheeseBagel on Fri, 25 December 2015, 18:06:06
Just have to give props to SkullY - these boards are great (I have one) though do to my poor planning I had to take it apart and haven't put it back together yet. That being said. SkullY has amazing QC and customer service. EVERYONE SHOULD BE SNAGGING THIS PCB!
Post by: Zorberema on Mon, 25 January 2016, 11:47:07
Post by: skullydazed on Mon, 25 January 2016, 15:59:22
Didn't notice you got your own vendor forum!
Just have to give props to SkullY - these boards are great (I have one) though do to my poor planning I had to take it apart and haven't put it back together yet. That being said. SkullY has amazing QC and customer service. EVERYONE SHOULD BE SNAGGING THIS PCB!
Thanks for your support! I hope you get that put back together soon so you can show it off. Let me know if you need anything when you're ready to put it back together.
Are all these layouts available for alps boards as well? I'll be using orange alps + caps taken from an Apple Extended Keyboard, and the spacebar is 6,5u on that one. The alps plates does not look like they features multiple layouts!
The PCB supports all layouts for both alps and MX, but unfortunately the plate is another matter. Due to the way alps/matias stabilizers work you can't make a plate that supports multiple combinations easily if you need to stabilize keys. I'm working on a way around that problem but it will be a while, if ever, before that gets solved.
However, if you're OK with an acrylic plate I can cut one with any layout you want.
Post by: Zorberema on Mon, 25 January 2016, 17:12:51
The PCB supports all layouts for both alps and MX, but unfortunately the plate is another matter. Due to the way alps/matias stabilizers work you can't make a plate that supports multiple combinations easily if you need to stabilize keys. I'm working on a way around that problem but it will be a while, if ever, before that gets solved.
However, if you're OK with an acrylic plate I can cut one with any layout you want.
I'd definitelly be down for an acrylic plate if that allows for a custom layout! Now when I think about it... You don't happen to have any left-over monarch pcb's lying around? ;)
Is it looking like the store is coming up soon? I've heard about the troubles around the launch; I hope you'll be able to sort everything out soon!
Post by: skullydazed on Mon, 25 January 2016, 17:57:03
I'd definitelly be down for an acrylic plate if that allows for a custom layout! Now when I think about it... You don't happen to have any left-over monarch pcb's lying around? ;)
Any spares go to koalapear, so you'll have to bug him. ;)
Is it looking like the store is coming up soon? I've heard about the troubles around the launch; I hope you'll be able to sort everything out soon!
I have the store all configured, I just need to take about 30 more pictures and finish describing everything. I'd like to think that wouldn't take long, but you'd be surprised.
Post by: Zorberema on Tue, 26 January 2016, 04:44:16
Oh... :(I'd definitelly be down for an acrylic plate if that allows for a custom layout! Now when I think about it... You don't happen to have any left-over monarch pcb's lying around? ;)Any spares go to koalapear, so you'll have to bug him. ;)
Is it looking like the store is coming up soon? I've heard about the troubles around the launch; I hope you'll be able to sort everything out soon!
I have the store all configured, I just need to take about 30 more pictures and finish describing everything. I'd like to think that wouldn't take long, but you'd be surprised.
Good luck finish it all up! :) Will you stock alps/ Mx stabs?
Post by: skullydazed on Tue, 26 January 2016, 08:36:44
Good luck finish it all up! :) Will you stock alps/ Mx stabs?
Thanks!
Yes, I have both pcb and plate mounted cherry stabs, and a bunch of matias stabs (https://www.instagram.com/p/_pSvIWoxUt/).
Post by: Zorberema on Tue, 26 January 2016, 09:35:04
Good luck finish it all up! :) Will you stock alps/ Mx stabs?
Thanks!
Yes, I have both pcb and plate mounted cherry stabs, and a bunch of matias stabs (https://www.instagram.com/p/_pSvIWoxUt/).
Awesome! Will pick up both Alps/ MX stabs for various builds! :) Looking forward to the release!
Post by: skullydazed on Wed, 10 February 2016, 01:51:45
https://shop.clueboard.co/Clueboard-66-PCB.html
Inventory is going faster than I anticipated. I have around a dozen left and because of the spring festival my next shipment won't get here until 3/3 or later.
Post by: skullydazed on Thu, 11 February 2016, 13:28:02
I'm blown away. These sold out much faster than I thought they would. My second batch of PCB's has been order for a week now, but if you'd like to pre-order you can do so:
https://shop.clueboard.co/Clueboard-66-PCB-Accepting-Pre-orders.html
The first 45 pre-orders get their PCB from the first batch in early March. After that you can expect to receive your board sometime in April. Regular ordering and shipments will continue until I can maintain an inventory level.
People who pre-order will receive a version 2.0 PCB. This PCB supports everything the Clueboard 1.0 PCB supports, with the following new features:
- New bottom row footprints to enable a wider variety of layouts.
- LED support for the escape key, so you can light up your artisan esc
- Improve split shift support, you can do 1.25u/1u or 1u/1.25u on BOTH sides
- Hacker Friendly! The TWC/i2c pins have been exposed to allow you to interface with custom hardware
- LKTK or RHTK options- pair this with the coming Cluepad PCB to put a numpad on the left or right of your Clueboard, and connect them with a single USB cable.
Post by: Wannabe on Thu, 11 February 2016, 14:00:49
Post by: faxe on Thu, 11 February 2016, 14:26:04
Post by: romevi on Thu, 11 February 2016, 14:26:55
Post by: Tuntematon on Thu, 11 February 2016, 15:15:43
Post by: skullydazed on Thu, 11 February 2016, 15:17:36
Somehow I am very happy right now that I decided to wait. Do you have an image of the new possible layouts?
Not yet, I need to put that together. Here's an image of the PCB layout:
http://i.imgur.com/QGucYGA.png
Post by: faxe on Thu, 11 February 2016, 15:24:49
Post by: xondat on Thu, 11 February 2016, 15:30:22
Post by: skullydazed on Thu, 11 February 2016, 16:16:46
Thank you! And does the Aluminium case include feet?
No but I have a couple sets I could let go of. Can't guarantee to match the case color. :)
Post by: derezzed on Sun, 14 February 2016, 19:24:13
Post by: joey on Sun, 14 February 2016, 19:25:58
Will the 2.0 PCB use SMD or through-hole components. If it uses SMD, will they come pre-soldered? Will the 2.0 PCB be compatible with the Cherry MX plates you're currently selling? I was planning to build my own custom 60% but this comes so close to my ideal layout and will look so much nicer than a hand-wired skeleton case, that I think this will be my next keyboard. I bought several child sets of Carbon just to get the few keys I would need for my custom layout, but seeing the titanium gray case you have, I find myself wondering what sets I would need to put Nantucket Selectric on this board.All the components, apart from switches are pre-soldered.
Post by: skullydazed on Sun, 14 February 2016, 19:33:40
Will the 2.0 PCB use SMD or through-hole components. If it uses SMD, will they come pre-soldered? Will the 2.0 PCB be compatible with the Cherry MX plates you're currently selling? I was planning to build my own custom 60% but this comes so close to my ideal layout and will look so much nicer than a hand-wired skeleton case, that I think this will be my next keyboard. I bought several child sets of Carbon just to get the few keys I would need for my custom layout, but seeing the titanium gray case you have, I find myself wondering what sets I would need to put Nantucket Selectric on this board.
As joey said all the smd components are pre-soldered. The 2.0 PCB is compatible, but there will be new plates coming that support the additional layout options as well. Some of them are already supported by the current plate (like the split shift) but some of the bottom row configurations are not currently supported in the plate.
If you want one of those titanium grey cases you better order soon, there are only 2 left in stock. :)
Post by: derezzed on Sun, 14 February 2016, 20:11:56
If you want one of those titanium grey cases you better order soon, there are only 2 left in stock. :)
That is unfortunate. Will you have more cases in stock by the time the 2.0 PCBs become available? The Nantucket Selectric group buy ends this week. If I don't buy the case, I won't have anything to put my keyboard in. If I don't buy the caps, I may have to suffer with the awful stock Ducky Shine keycaps on my home board for 6 months or more.
edit:
And does the split spacebar layout support both PCB-mount and plate mount stabs?
Post by: skullydazed on Sun, 14 February 2016, 21:30:17
If you want one of those titanium grey cases you better order soon, there are only 2 left in stock. :)
That is unfortunate. Will you have more cases in stock by the time the 2.0 PCBs become available? The Nantucket Selectric group buy ends this week. If I don't buy the case, I won't have anything to put my keyboard in. If I don't buy the caps, I may have to suffer with the awful stock Ducky Shine keycaps on my home board for 6 months or more.
edit:
And does the split spacebar layout support both PCB-mount and plate mount stabs?
If I can track down the manufacturer, or massdrop does another run, I will get more.
Split spacebar does support PCB mount stabs.
Post by: romevi on Mon, 15 February 2016, 08:19:53
Post by: faxe on Mon, 15 February 2016, 09:32:26
Post by: skullydazed on Mon, 15 February 2016, 10:26:21
Will the new plate be available with the release of the new pcb? If I place an order to reserve the new pcb, could you switch me to new new plate before dispatching the order?
I'll need some time to develop and have the new plate made. In the meantime if you PM me with the layout you want I can check to see if the current plate supports it, and we can talk about options if it doesn't.
Post by: JaccoW on Mon, 15 February 2016, 11:01:18
It is my work board that I lug around in a custom case. Any chance of a carbon fiber plate? ;)
Post by: skullydazed on Mon, 15 February 2016, 11:29:31
Shame I missed the first round but I will definitely buy a pcb + plate for my FC660M.
It is my work board that I lug around in a custom case. Any chance of a carbon fiber plate? ;)
No plans for now but anything is possible. If there's enough interest we can do a group buy for one.
Post by: JaccoW on Mon, 15 February 2016, 14:17:57
Mostly looking for a way to make my work keyboard lighter. So either CF or titanium would work.Shame I missed the first round but I will definitely buy a pcb + plate for my FC660M.No plans for now but anything is possible. If there's enough interest we can do a group buy for one.
It is my work board that I lug around in a custom case. Any chance of a carbon fiber plate? ;)
CF would need a redesigned plate and some extra work (see bazh's weaven GB (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=78422.0)) whereas titanium can be anodized in funky colors.
Post by: FLFisherman on Thu, 18 February 2016, 20:07:44
Post by: skullydazed on Thu, 18 February 2016, 20:59:04
I saw that you mentioned in December that a future version of this PCB would support LEDs. Is there any estimate on when this may be released? I am of course assuming that the 2.0 version does not support it, and I could be entirely mistaken.
Lighting is a continually evolving story. I don't want to commit to any specific timeline but I want to support most LED options.
Post by: Tuntematon on Sat, 20 February 2016, 15:13:27
1) When do we get to see the new PCB 2.0 layout options?
2) Will there be a new aluminum Alps plate that supports all the current and new options? I'd like to have Alps in a split space bar + split backspace layout.
Thanks!
Post by: skullydazed on Sat, 20 February 2016, 17:52:33
A few questions:
1) When do we get to see the new PCB 2.0 layout options?
2) Will there be a new aluminum Alps plate that supports all the current and new options? I'd like to have Alps in a split space bar + split backspace layout.
Thanks!
I'm working on the layouts. I may be able to have that this weekend, but I have to finish some Nantucket Selectric work first.
It's harder to support multiple alps layouts due to the stabilizer situation. If you want a specific layout I can cut an acrylic board, but I don't know if there will ever be a generic alps aluminum plate available.
Post by: vivalarevolución on Mon, 22 February 2016, 20:46:46
Post by: derezzed on Thu, 25 February 2016, 23:02:02
Post by: skullydazed on Fri, 26 February 2016, 02:08:39
Is there any possibility of a 1u or 1.25u key in the middle of the split spacebar for the version 2.0 PCB?
Not at this point, I've already ordered the 2.0. I will keep it in mind for the next revision of the PCB.
Post by: JaccoW on Fri, 26 February 2016, 04:11:00
https://shop.clueboard.co/Clueboard-66-Aluminum-Plate-for-MX.html
Edit: I should learn how to read. The answer is yes.
Post by: vivalarevolución on Fri, 26 February 2016, 05:19:50
Post by: skullydazed on Fri, 26 February 2016, 09:27:13
For anyone that ordered a PCB 2.0 with additional components, is the shipping delayed until all components arrive? I assume that's the case, but I just want to be sure.
Yes, if you pre-ordered your whole order is being held until those come in.
Post by: vivalarevolución on Fri, 26 February 2016, 15:28:21
For anyone that ordered a PCB 2.0 with additional components, is the shipping delayed until all components arrive? I assume that's the case, but I just want to be sure.
Yes, if you pre-ordered your whole order is being held until those come in.
Thanks, that's what I figured.
Post by: derezzed on Fri, 26 February 2016, 19:54:40
Is there any possibility of a 1u or 1.25u key in the middle of the split spacebar for the version 2.0 PCB?
Not at this point, I've already ordered the 2.0. I will keep it in mind for the next revision of the PCB.
That's only slightly disappointing. But the way you designed the bottom row will still allow me to reach the keys next to the split space bar with minimal hand movement. Clueboard is going to be my next keyboard and my first non-mass produced keyboard. The version 1.0 PCB looks so clean, I'm eager to see how 2.0 turns out. I already bought switches and a case. I got the case from Massdrop (sorry, but $20 is $20), but I'm not sure about the angle. I figure if I don't like it, maybe I can convert it into a planter or something, and buy one of your acrylic cases (so many options!). Now, I'm just waiting for the 2.0 PCB and plate to become available. Well, I had planned on waiting but I'm wondering if it's possible 2.0 will sell out before it even arrives. Is 2.0 going to have a limited run or will it be available for a while?
Post by: skullydazed on Fri, 26 February 2016, 23:55:43
That's only slightly disappointing. But the way you designed the bottom row will still allow me to reach the keys next to the split space bar with minimal hand movement. Clueboard is going to be my next keyboard and my first non-mass produced keyboard. The version 1.0 PCB looks so clean, I'm eager to see how 2.0 turns out. I already bought switches and a case. I got the case from Massdrop (sorry, but $20 is $20), but I'm not sure about the angle. I figure if I don't like it, maybe I can convert it into a planter or something, and buy one of your acrylic cases (so many options!). Now, I'm just waiting for the 2.0 PCB and plate to become available. Well, I had planned on waiting but I'm wondering if it's possible 2.0 will sell out before it even arrives. Is 2.0 going to have a limited run or will it be available for a while?
Don't be sorry about ordering the case from massdrop. The more people who order that the more it'll go up for sale. That's the only way I replenish that stock for now. :)
Assuming there are no issues to fix, I plan to keep rerunning 2.0 for a while. The initial order ships in just a few days and about 1/3rd of those have already been sold. I'll order more as soon as half of them have been sold. I can't think of anything I want to add to the current Clueboard, instead I plan to next work on things that compliment the Clueboard.
Post by: vivalarevolución on Sat, 27 February 2016, 11:23:01
Is there any possibility of a 1u or 1.25u key in the middle of the split spacebar for the version 2.0 PCB?
Not at this point, I've already ordered the 2.0. I will keep it in mind for the next revision of the PCB.
That's only slightly disappointing. But the way you designed the bottom row will still allow me to reach the keys next to the split space bar with minimal hand movement. Clueboard is going to be my next keyboard and my first non-mass produced keyboard.
First non-mass produced keyboard? Welcome to the club!
Post by: cheddarbek on Sat, 05 March 2016, 02:06:58
Post by: faxe on Sat, 05 March 2016, 08:00:18
Post by: derezzed on Sat, 05 March 2016, 11:51:29
Post by: skullydazed on Sat, 05 March 2016, 12:38:45
You think you have it bad. At least you know your parts are going to arrive sometime. I've got to wait for the parts to be available for order. There's no option to preorder the plate. And to twist the knife even more, my case already arrived. Sure, I have to wait for my switches but those are already ordered so I know they're coming.
As soon as I have an order for plates underway I will open that up to pre-orders. This week has been a lot of work on Nantucket Selectric during my "not packing/shipping orders" time.
Post by: derezzed on Sat, 05 March 2016, 13:13:49
Post by: skullydazed on Sat, 05 March 2016, 13:39:49
As soon as that notification email hits my inbox, I will be ordering a plate (still going go have blue?), PCB, and stabilizers. Will Alps ever support the same layout options as Cherry? I don't plan on buying Alps any time soon, but was wondering if the option might be available in the future.
A universal alps plate will be available as soon as someone develops PCB mount alps stabs. ;)
I can cut custom layouts from acrylic, or if there's enough demand we can do other layouts as well. I'd like to offer an ISO layout at minimum, but it'll be some time until I can afford to keep stock on less popular items.
Post by: kuang2 on Mon, 07 March 2016, 23:33:41
I can not access to your shop. How can to order PCB?
Post by: skullydazed on Wed, 09 March 2016, 00:02:18
Hi Skully,
I can not access to your shop. How can to order PCB?
Everyone should be able to access my shop. Do you know why you can't?
Post by: skullydazed on Thu, 10 March 2016, 19:09:28
I have received word from the factory that the PCB's have been manufactured, but they did not have time to go through inspection today. Tomorrow they will go through inspection and then be shipped out. That means that I should have them in hand and ready to validate by early next week. I could be ready to ship PCB's as early as a week from tomorrow if everything looks good. (*knocks on wood*)
Post by: faxe on Sat, 12 March 2016, 05:54:56
Post by: JaccoW on Mon, 14 March 2016, 08:43:37
Post by: JaccoW on Wed, 16 March 2016, 13:03:13
Post by: pwade3 on Wed, 16 March 2016, 13:07:30
Preordered an Alps kit. It's time to finally get my hands dirty and learn how to solder. :P
I just ordered one of the Clueboard switch testers last week for a combination of actual switch testing and learning how to solder for if I want to pick up an actual Clueboard.
Post by: faxe on Thu, 17 March 2016, 12:06:13
Post by: skullydazed on Thu, 17 March 2016, 14:16:11
Just to get my hype going even better, PCB V1 had in switch led for CapsLock, Insert and Arrow Keys and V2 will have these plus ESC?
Correct! And all the LED's spots are connected to PWM pins on the MCU, which means you get full brightness control.
As well, there's an LED on LCTRL for people who swap ctrl and capslock. This LED is tied to the capslock LED so you can't have both, but you can put an LED in one or the other.
Post by: yinzer on Sat, 19 March 2016, 08:20:18
Pre-order update!
I have received word from the factory that the PCB's have been manufactured, but they did not have time to go through inspection today. Tomorrow they will go through inspection and then be shipped out. That means that I should have them in hand and ready to validate by early next week. I could be ready to ship PCB's as early as a week from tomorrow if everything looks good. (*knocks on wood*)
Will there be any leftovers from this batch or are they all spoken for?
Post by: StormyMonday on Sat, 19 March 2016, 11:32:34
Post by: skullydazed on Sat, 19 March 2016, 13:47:45
Will there be any leftovers from this batch or are they all spoken for?
Only about half the current batch is spoken for, the rest will go up for sale soon.
I built a clueboard and two numpads last night, and so far every feature I've tested has worked great. Sometime this weekend you'll see pictures and maybe even some video, and then all the PCB pre-orders will go out on Monday or Tuesday this week.
Post by: cheddarbek on Sat, 19 March 2016, 14:19:25
Post by: derezzed on Sun, 20 March 2016, 02:11:40
Post by: yinzer on Sun, 20 March 2016, 10:06:40
Will there be any leftovers from this batch or are they all spoken for?
Only about half the current batch is spoken for, the rest will go up for sale soon.
I built a clueboard and two numpads last night, and so far every feature I've tested has worked great. Sometime this weekend you'll see pictures and maybe even some video, and then all the PCB pre-orders will go out on Monday or Tuesday this week.
Nice! I have a few questions -
If I order today, can I get in on that batch? Or do you ship pretty regularly?
Is there a default layout flashed on the PCBs? If not, is the firmware guide mentioned on the support page going to be available soon? I've only built boards from InputClub and their configurator makes the firmware process pretty painless.
Also, while not a PCB related question, I don't know where else to ask - you offer the option to skip out on the top layer of the case. Have you ever had anyone do a build like this to get that sort of Lolita Spyder 'floating keys look? and would that make the screws too long?
Thanks for any help! :D
Post by: skullydazed on Sun, 20 March 2016, 12:25:17
Do you expect to have Cherry MX aluminum plates available for purchase/preorder before the current batch of v2 PCBs sells out? If not, can you estimate when the next batch of PCBs will become available?
I'm working on ordering another round of aluminum plates. If I don't have those in before the current batch sells out the next batch of PCB's should be here in early April. I'm working to always have PCB's in stock.
Post by: skullydazed on Sun, 20 March 2016, 12:32:04
Will there be any leftovers from this batch or are they all spoken for?
Only about half the current batch is spoken for, the rest will go up for sale soon.
I built a clueboard and two numpads last night, and so far every feature I've tested has worked great. Sometime this weekend you'll see pictures and maybe even some video, and then all the PCB pre-orders will go out on Monday or Tuesday this week.
Nice! I have a few questions -
If I order today, can I get in on that batch? Or do you ship pretty regularly?
Is there a default layout flashed on the PCBs? If not, is the firmware guide mentioned on the support page going to be available soon? I've only built boards from InputClub and their configurator makes the firmware process pretty painless.
Also, while not a PCB related question, I don't know where else to ask - you offer the option to skip out on the top layer of the case. Have you ever had anyone do a build like this to get that sort of Lolita Spyder 'floating keys look? and would that make the screws too long?
Thanks for any help! :D
Yes, if you order today you'll be shipped from the stock I have right now. Once I have packaged up all the PCB's and packed the pre-orders I will be putting the remaining stock up on the store.
The PCB ships with a default layout (updated version to be published soon) that is pretty similar to the fc660m. You can also flash it using QMK if you want to customize the layout. I'm working on my own web based configurator for the clueboard but it is not ready yet.
It's totally doable to leave the top layer off! You will have to source your own screws (M5 or 3/16") or move the top layer to the bottom to accommodate the screws, as you note. I'm working on a better solution for that problem, but have not yet licked it.
Post by: kuang2 on Tue, 22 March 2016, 03:20:37
I have a question that does your PCB support AEKII layout? I have some AEK keyboard which in very good condition (both switch and keycap), and I want to use 660 layout.
Best,
Post by: skullydazed on Wed, 23 March 2016, 03:02:09
Hi,
I have a question that does your PCB support AEKII layout? I have some AEK keyboard which in very good condition (both switch and keycap), and I want to use 660 layout.
Best,
You can use the 6.5u spacebar and the 1.25 mods (and 1u mods if you get ahold of an Apple Standard Keyboard or two) but you won't be able to do anything with the 1.5u mods without some weird spacing on the bottom row.
Post by: skullydazed on Wed, 23 March 2016, 03:09:47
In addition to the previously announced features (new LED locations/control, more bottom row options, i2c support) there's a very exciting addition: RGB Underlight!
(http://i.imgur.com/kH6IbGR.gif)
All pre-orders are ready to be fulfilled and you can expect to receive your tracking number tomorrow. The remaining stock will be available in the store shortly after.
Post by: faxe on Wed, 23 March 2016, 04:04:51
Post by: skullydazed on Wed, 23 March 2016, 04:11:54
What? How? Why? Yeah! eh, presoldered? This is getting better every time :)
Not pre-soldered, but these are pretty easy as SMD components go. I've been able to do all of them with my soldering iron. You can pick up the proper LED's here:
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/13667
Post by: pwade3 on Wed, 23 March 2016, 07:44:42
So am I correct in understanding that you can do a standard bottom row? So that the only nonstandard keys would either be a short or split shift on the right?
Post by: skullydazed on Wed, 23 March 2016, 08:08:20
Oh man, that white case looks amazing with the LEDs, I've been debating case colors and that might just be it.
So am I correct in understanding that you can do a standard bottom row? So that the only nonstandard keys would either be a short or split shift on the right?
You can do mostly standard. If you have a 6.25u spacebar you will have to have a 1u mod somewhere on the bottom row (or leave a blank spot there.) If you go with a 6U spacebar you can have all 1.25u mods on the bottom, but a 6u spacebar isn't standard.
Post by: pwade3 on Wed, 23 March 2016, 08:23:04
You can do mostly standard. If you have a 6.25u spacebar you will have to have a 1u mod somewhere on the bottom row (or leave a blank spot there.) If you go with a 6U spacebar you can have all 1.25u mods on the bottom, but a 6u spacebar isn't standard.
Ohh okay, thanks Skully, I'll keep that in mind. I was wondering how I'd seen a few out there with all 1.25u mods. I'm just not good at eyeballing spacebars haha.
Post by: merlin64 on Wed, 23 March 2016, 09:45:23
Post by: Wannabe on Wed, 23 March 2016, 10:31:11
Post by: redbanshee on Wed, 23 March 2016, 10:42:38
Oh man I might have to get in on another one of these now that there's purple case colors and underlighting support...will go perfect with purple JTK and zealios. How many RGB LEDs need to be soldered on? Are resistors needed too?
The back lighting is achieved with a WS2812B LED strip on the v1.0 clueboard pcb. Im not completely sure (as ive only done an 8 LED strip) if you can do more then 8 without it effecting the brightness, but I think that the more LEDs you add, the dimmer it will be overall. Someone correct me if im wrong...
(http://i.imgur.com/FBixHpg.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/TYBE6bA.jpg)
Post by: BaconEggandCheeseBagel on Wed, 23 March 2016, 10:43:00
Post by: JaccoW on Wed, 23 March 2016, 11:09:34
Post by: redbanshee on Wed, 23 March 2016, 11:12:19
Are the LEDs controllable or do they just cycle?
100% controllable, with multiple effects/brightness/hue/saturation control
Post by: yinzer on Wed, 23 March 2016, 11:12:43
Are the LEDs controllable or do they just cycle?
Oh man I might have to get in on another one of these now that there's purple case colors and underlighting support...will go perfect with purple JTK and zealios. How many RGB LEDs need to be soldered on? Are resistors needed too?
The back lighting is achieved with a WS2812B LED strip. Im not completely sure (as ive only done an 8 LED strip) if you can do more then 8 without it effecting the brightness, but I think that the more LEDs you add, the dimmer it will be overall. Someone correct me if im wrong...Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/FBixHpg.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/TYBE6bA.jpg)
I'd definitely like to work this into my build. Same question as Jacco, but I mainly want to be able to turn them off from the keyboard.
Also, redbanshee, can you point to a good guide on how to install these? I've never worked with LED strips and I'd like to study up so I can minimize how much I'm wrecking that pretty white board.
Post by: redbanshee on Wed, 23 March 2016, 11:20:01
Are the LEDs controllable or do they just cycle?Oh man I might have to get in on another one of these now that there's purple case colors and underlighting support...will go perfect with purple JTK and zealios. How many RGB LEDs need to be soldered on? Are resistors needed too?
The back lighting is achieved with a WS2812B LED strip. Im not completely sure (as ive only done an 8 LED strip) if you can do more then 8 without it effecting the brightness, but I think that the more LEDs you add, the dimmer it will be overall. Someone correct me if im wrong...Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/FBixHpg.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/TYBE6bA.jpg)
I'd definitely like to work this into my build. Same question as Jacco, but I mainly want to be able to turn them off from the keyboard.
Also, redbanshee, can you point to a good guide on how to install these? I've never worked with LED strips and I'd like to study up so I can minimize how much I'm wrecking that pretty white board.
There is no guide.... yet. I me and skully just got it working last night :D
I can do a fast write up on how to get it done once I completely finalize my firmware, I still have some issues to work out in the firmware itself before letting you guys at it. Skully will probably write his own guide eventually for the v2.0 pcb rgb install.
Those pics are of my modded clueboard v1.0 FYI... it should be easier to add this to a v2.0 clueboard
Post by: JaccoW on Wed, 23 March 2016, 11:20:56
That sounds pretty sweet. :thumb:Are the LEDs controllable or do they just cycle?
100% controllable, with multiple effects/brightness/hue/saturation control
Post by: yinzer on Wed, 23 March 2016, 11:29:17
Are the LEDs controllable or do they just cycle?Oh man I might have to get in on another one of these now that there's purple case colors and underlighting support...will go perfect with purple JTK and zealios. How many RGB LEDs need to be soldered on? Are resistors needed too?
The back lighting is achieved with a WS2812B LED strip. Im not completely sure (as ive only done an 8 LED strip) if you can do more then 8 without it effecting the brightness, but I think that the more LEDs you add, the dimmer it will be overall. Someone correct me if im wrong...Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/FBixHpg.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/TYBE6bA.jpg)
I'd definitely like to work this into my build. Same question as Jacco, but I mainly want to be able to turn them off from the keyboard.
Also, redbanshee, can you point to a good guide on how to install these? I've never worked with LED strips and I'd like to study up so I can minimize how much I'm wrecking that pretty white board.
There is no guide.... yet. I me and skully just got it working last night :D
I can do a fast write up on how to get it done once I completely finalize my firmware, I still have some issues to work out in the firmware itself before letting you guys at it. Skully will probably write his own guide eventually for the v2.0 pcb rgb strip install.
Those pics are of my modded clueboard v1.0 FYI... it should be easier to add this to a v2.0 clueboard
Sounds good! Any chance you might be willing to throw up a shopping list so we can have things on hand for when that time comes? Or is just the LED strip that Skully linked and some resistors?
Post by: redbanshee on Wed, 23 March 2016, 11:37:12
Sounds good! Any chance you might be willing to throw up a shopping list so we can have things on hand for when that time comes? Or is just the LED strip that Skully linked and some resistors?
All you need is a WS2812B strip and some wire to mod a V1.0 clueboard. The WS2812B strips come with resistors pre-soldered and they come in coated (waterproof) and uncoated variations. Either variation will work but I recommend the uncoated version.
let me ebay that for you: http://goo.gl/Tcv952
Post by: skullydazed on Wed, 23 March 2016, 11:46:06
Do the Acrylic case metal plate also fit the regular FC660m/Varmillo case
No, the acrylic case metal plate is wider and has screw holes to interface with the rest of the acrylic plate. You can't swap between the cases that way.
Skully! Any chance you could send some smds in my fulfillment and/or possibly transparent middle acrylic pieces - I'd gladly pay!
Not yet, I'm working on a bulk order of WS2812B's. In the meantime just grab 2 of these: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/13667
Oh man I might have to get in on another one of these now that there's purple case colors and underlighting support...will go perfect with purple JTK and zealios. How many RGB LEDs need to be soldered on? Are resistors needed too?
You'll need 14 of these: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/13667
No other parts are needed, the necessary caps for those LED's are already included on the PCB.
Are the LEDs controllable or do they just cycle?Oh man I might have to get in on another one of these now that there's purple case colors and underlighting support...will go perfect with purple JTK and zealios. How many RGB LEDs need to be soldered on? Are resistors needed too?
The back lighting is achieved with a WS2812B LED strip. Im not completely sure (as ive only done an 8 LED strip) if you can do more then 8 without it effecting the brightness, but I think that the more LEDs you add, the dimmer it will be overall. Someone correct me if im wrong...Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/FBixHpg.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/TYBE6bA.jpg)
I'd definitely like to work this into my build. Same question as Jacco, but I mainly want to be able to turn them off from the keyboard.
Also, redbanshee, can you point to a good guide on how to install these? I've never worked with LED strips and I'd like to study up so I can minimize how much I'm wrecking that pretty white board.
On the Clueboard 2.0 you use bare WS2812B's, not the strip. You can grab the right part here: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/13667
I'm working on a video tutorial, but essentially you just set the LED on the pad, make sure the corner with a line matches the corner with a line on the PCB's silkscreen, and then touch a hot soldering iron to each pad to make the connection. It's the easiest SMD soldering job ever.
Sounds good! Any chance you might be willing to throw up a shopping list so we can have things on hand for when that time comes? Or is just the LED strip that Skully linked and some resistors?
The shopping list is easy, just order 2 of these: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/13667
No other components are necessary.
Are the LEDs controllable or do they just cycle?
They're fully controllable.
All you need is a WS2812B strip and some wire. The WS2812B strips come with resistors pre-soldered and they come in coated (waterproof) and uncoated variations. Either variation will work but I recommend the uncoated version.
The LED strip is only needed for Clueboard 1.0 users. If you have a 2.0 PCB you will need to order 2 of these:
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/13667
Post by: redbanshee on Wed, 23 March 2016, 11:48:17
Post by: yinzer on Wed, 23 March 2016, 11:55:06
Post by: cheddarbek on Wed, 23 March 2016, 22:27:23
Post by: Butter on Wed, 23 March 2016, 22:59:10
Post by: skullydazed on Thu, 24 March 2016, 01:53:41
Any plan for in switches LED?
Eventually yes. For now I'm focusing on the current clueboard and the numpad.
Post by: Wannabe on Thu, 24 March 2016, 08:53:33
Post by: cheddarbek on Thu, 24 March 2016, 21:00:12
Just placed my order for my second clueboard! I got burned hard on Ivan's RedScarf GB, but now I can complete my dream of a small form factor purple board with underlighting without having to resort to Winkeyless or GON. Clueboard 1.0 was perfect for building my MX Clears board. Really excited to build with the new pcb and hopefully create my endgame board.
Silly silly. There is no endgame.
Post by: StormyMonday on Thu, 24 March 2016, 22:52:18
Just placed my order for my second clueboard! I got burned hard on Ivan's RedScarf GB, but now I can complete my dream of a small form factor purple board with underlighting without having to resort to Winkeyless or GON. Clueboard 1.0 was perfect for building my MX Clears board. Really excited to build with the new pcb and hopefully create my endgame board.
Silly silly. There is no endgame.
+100
Post by: Wannabe on Fri, 25 March 2016, 08:06:21
Just placed my order for my second clueboard! I got burned hard on Ivan's RedScarf GB, but now I can complete my dream of a small form factor purple board with underlighting without having to resort to Winkeyless or GON. Clueboard 1.0 was perfect for building my MX Clears board. Really excited to build with the new pcb and hopefully create my endgame board.
Silly silly. There is no endgame.
Shhhhhhh. Let me and my wallet pretend!
Post by: yinzer on Sat, 26 March 2016, 14:28:24
Any tips for keeping it in place? I'm looking to do a standard bottom row.
Post by: njbair on Sat, 26 March 2016, 14:32:26
Post by: skullydazed on Sat, 26 March 2016, 15:37:05
With all of the options for bottom rows and the holes for the stabilizers for the space bar, I'm having a hard time keeping firmly in the board. It'll just slide out or shift to one of the joining holes.
Any tips for keeping it in place? I'm looking to do a standard bottom row.
There are two options that seem to work well. The first is to use a dab of hot glue, although you want to be very sure you're in the correct set of holes. The second is to insert a toothpick or two into the hole to force the clip to stay "wide" in the hole.
Thanks for bringing this point up, I need to document that on my support section.
Post by: skullydazed on Sat, 26 March 2016, 15:49:21
What can you do with i2c support? Sounds interesting.
In short you can talk to other hardware.
For example, I've been eyeing this screen (https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/micro-oled-breakout-hookup-guide). Using i2c you could display information, like your current layer or the RGB mode for underlighting.
Or how about Bluetooth? It wouldn't be as straightforward as it is on the planck, but you could use i2c to add a bluetooth module to your clueboard.
You can even violate patents! it would be really easy to design a PCB that sits below the Clueboard PCB and shines LED's up through the switch holes, using i2c to talk to the MCU on that board. That way you could control the backlighting from your keyboard.
Post by: njbair on Sat, 26 March 2016, 16:57:58
I'm somewhat familiar with serial protocol, and I've done some serial stuff with Arduino, but I wasn't sure what the particular application would be in this case. The screen idea is a good one. I've been thinking about ways to indicate layer states, etc.What can you do with i2c support? Sounds interesting.
In short you can talk to other hardware.
For example, I've been eyeing this screen (https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/micro-oled-breakout-hookup-guide). Using i2c you could display information, like your current layer or the RGB mode for underlighting.
Or how about Bluetooth? It wouldn't be as straightforward as it is on the planck, but you could use i2c to add a bluetooth module to your clueboard.
You can even violate patents! it would be really easy to design a PCB that sits below the Clueboard PCB and shines LED's up through the switch holes, using i2c to talk to the MCU on that board. That way you could control the backlighting from your keyboard.
Post by: briancvrrbs on Sat, 26 March 2016, 19:28:40
Aside from, that this board is gonna be gorgeous! :'D
Post by: yinzer on Sat, 26 March 2016, 22:55:41
Post by: briancvrrbs on Sat, 26 March 2016, 23:07:23
So, what do we need to do to get these LEDs working? Other than waiting on some caps I have in the mail, this is the last hurdle for me.
I just sent a PM to skullydazed about that lol
I'm happily typing on my board right now...but I can't light up those arrows and esc keys :(
Post by: yinzer on Sat, 26 March 2016, 23:31:33
So, what do we need to do to get these LEDs working? Other than waiting on some caps I have in the mail, this is the last hurdle for me.
I just sent a PM to skullydazed about that lol
I'm happily typing on my board right now...but I can't light up those arrows and esc keys :(
Oh, I mean the new back-light feature. I'm not sure if the answer for our questions is the same or not.
I've only gotten hex files from InputClub's configurators and flashed through the teensy bootloader, so I'm just kind of hoping that this won't be too too much more complicated than that. Firmware building is definitely not my strong suit.
Post by: skullydazed on Sun, 27 March 2016, 00:35:47
I'm working on shipping orders right now, but on my todo list for tonight is getting the firmware source code, and a default firmware with RGB support, posted and available. Please sit tight, you'll be able to customize soon!
Post by: yinzer on Sun, 27 March 2016, 09:17:25
By default Fn+Page Up will turn the in-switch LED's on and off.
I'm working on shipping orders right now, but on my todo list for tonight is getting the firmware source code, and a default firmware with RGB support, posted and available. Please sit tight, you'll be able to customize soon!
Thanks! I only jumped on the Clueboard train a week ago, but your customer support has been awesome this week. I'm excite to post pics of this beautiful board and, hopefully, stir up a little business for you. ;D
Post by: Wannabe on Sun, 27 March 2016, 11:16:37
With all of the options for bottom rows and the holes for the stabilizers for the space bar, I'm having a hard time keeping firmly in the board. It'll just slide out or shift to one of the joining holes.
Any tips for keeping it in place? I'm looking to do a standard bottom row.
I struggled the most with the bottom row too. Figuring out which holes to use for the stabs was a tad confusing.
Post by: skullydazed on Sun, 27 March 2016, 12:18:36
I will be busy all day, and haven't had a chance to post the new firmware code. If you need to flash a custom firmware to your board and want to do so today, you can grab my source code here:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/tjmunwo2zwzhgzj/clueboard_qmk_firmware.tgz?dl=0
I will get it posted to gihhub as soon as I am able, but I will be busy all day with Easter celebrations.
Post by: skullydazed on Sun, 27 March 2016, 13:07:19
About to start soldering my board together! I just received the Clueboard 2.0 PCB today. I will be using the Alum case from Massdrop but I noticed a small issue. It seems like the board fits a bit loosely inside the case even when the case is fastened with the screws. Upon inspection, it seems the plate is a bit short on the sides that the case isnt able to grip on the edges. Anyone have a solution or faced this yet? :o
Aside from, that this board is gonna be gorgeous! :'D
With the 1.0 the PCB almost fit too tightly due to the hole to the right of enter. I increased that radius by 0.1mm to help with that, but it sounds like it's looser than you would like. Sorry about that!
If you have some heat shrink you can try sliding that open and using it to shim the left and right edges of the plate. That should hold everything in place better.
Post by: redbanshee on Tue, 29 March 2016, 10:11:50
(http://i.imgur.com/42JY5E5.jpg)
album: http://imgur.com/a/lK0Pk
Post by: yinzer on Tue, 29 March 2016, 10:19:41
Duck feet on my clueboard ;D :Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/42JY5E5.jpg)
album: http://imgur.com/a/lK0Pk
Forgive me for being a bit out of the loop (you miss a lot when you're only an Ergodox user), but how does one find such excellent feets? I may have instantly developed a fetish.
Post by: redbanshee on Tue, 29 March 2016, 10:43:28
Forgive me for being a bit out of the loop (you miss a lot when you're only an Ergodox user), but how does one find such excellent feets? I may have instantly developed a fetish.
They came from the CP-SQ 1800 group by :thumb:
Post by: skullydazed on Wed, 30 March 2016, 12:54:56
https://github.com/skullydazed/qmk_firmware
Clueboard 1.0 Users: Use the keyboard/clueboard1 directory
If you want to use the RGG strip support, follow /u/badnewscaps 's wiring guide (https://i.imgur.com/NRBs3NY.jpg ) and uncomment RGBLIGHT_ENABLE in Makefile.
Clueboard 2.0 Users: Use the keyboard/clueboard2 directory
If you want to use the RGB underlighting support you'll need to solder 14 WS2812B onto your PCB. Then uncomment RGBLIGHT_ENABLE in Makefile.
Default Layout Features:
Capslock LED works normally.
Escape key sends escape normally. Shift+Escape sends ~. Fn+Escape sends `.
Fn + any number key is the corresponding "F" key. EG, Fn+4 is F4.
Fn+Backspace sends Delete.
Fn+Page Up turns on the LED's for Esc, Page Up, and the Arrows. (Clueboard 2.0 only)
Fn+Arrows sends Page Up/Down, and Home/End
Fn+S enters the second layer:
Fn+S+R: RESET button, enters firmware programming mode
Fn+S+Backspace: Turn on/off RGB underlight
Fn+S+Spacebar: Cycle through RGB modes
Fn+S+Page Up/Down: Control Brightness of RGB underlight
Fn+S+Left/Right: Control Hue (Color) of RGB underlight
Fn+S+Up/Down: Control Saturation of RGB underlight
Post by: alexjj on Wed, 30 March 2016, 13:20:43
I want to have LEDs, but I can't decide what acrylic colors I should get. I was thinking of a black top and then clear/white/smoke sides, but I quite like the white tops in this thread with the colors shining through.
Decisions decisions..!
Post by: yinzer on Wed, 30 March 2016, 20:48:07
(http://i.imgur.com/bdI3TZf.png?1)
Also, isn't RGBLight_Enable already uncommented in the Makefile?
Sorry if this isn't a ton of information to go off of. This is most definitely not my area of expertise.
Post by: skullydazed on Wed, 30 March 2016, 23:22:14
So, I'm having a little trouble making a hex file. I'm not making a custom keymap at this time, just trying to get the RGB lights to work. I'm able to make a Clueboard1 hex without any trouble. However, Clueboard2 results in an error 1. It looks like the failure has something to do with "multiple definitions of 'led_set'Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/bdI3TZf.png?1)
Also, isn't RGBLight_Enable already uncommented in the Makefile?
Sorry if this isn't a ton of information to go off of. This is most definitely not my area of expertise.
Sorry about that! In my haste to get this out there I missed committing that fix. Edit led.c and change "led_set" to "led_set_kb". We just got to LA and are about to go to dinner, I will commit the fix tomorrow.
In the meantime, if you just want to enable RGB you can try this hex: https://www.dropbox.com/s/9qas00d813qqi3q/clueboard2.hex?dl=0
Post by: pwade3 on Thu, 31 March 2016, 10:10:30
Post by: skullydazed on Thu, 31 March 2016, 10:23:05
Hey Skully, any more info on continued PCB production? Currently still undecided on case color and switches, but I was debating grabbing the PCB just in fear of missing out. Wasn't sure if the next shipment would be in before or after you manage to get color sample pictures taken, you know?
The next batch ships to me on Apr 15, which means it should be in my hands on Apr 22. (The day before my birthday actually.)
Post by: pwade3 on Thu, 31 March 2016, 10:31:23
Hey Skully, any more info on continued PCB production? Currently still undecided on case color and switches, but I was debating grabbing the PCB just in fear of missing out. Wasn't sure if the next shipment would be in before or after you manage to get color sample pictures taken, you know?
The next batch ships to me on Apr 15, which means it should be in my hands on Apr 22. (The day before my birthday actually.)
Good to hear, I think I'll just wait until then to order, that way I can have everything show up all at once.
Post by: yinzer on Thu, 31 March 2016, 10:41:23
So, I'm having a little trouble making a hex file. I'm not making a custom keymap at this time, just trying to get the RGB lights to work. I'm able to make a Clueboard1 hex without any trouble. However, Clueboard2 results in an error 1. It looks like the failure has something to do with "multiple definitions of 'led_set'Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/bdI3TZf.png?1)
Also, isn't RGBLight_Enable already uncommented in the Makefile?
Sorry if this isn't a ton of information to go off of. This is most definitely not my area of expertise.
Sorry about that! In my haste to get this out there I missed committing that fix. Edit led.c and change "led_set" to "led_set_kb". We just got to LA and are about to go to dinner, I will commit the fix tomorrow.
In the meantime, if you just want to enable RGB you can try this hex: https://www.dropbox.com/s/9qas00d813qqi3q/clueboard2.hex?dl=0
I was able to compile a firmware with the change to the led.c file, but the backlight functionality doesn't appear to be working for me. The LEDs seem to be installed correctly because they flash when I plug in the board (they did this on the old firmware as well). I'll continue to troubleshoot this afternoon.
How would I go about putting the hex file you linked onto my Clueboard? I've been uploading with the 'make dfu' in the terminal.
Post by: skullydazed on Thu, 31 March 2016, 11:21:48
So, I'm having a little trouble making a hex file. I'm not making a custom keymap at this time, just trying to get the RGB lights to work. I'm able to make a Clueboard1 hex without any trouble. However, Clueboard2 results in an error 1. It looks like the failure has something to do with "multiple definitions of 'led_set'Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/bdI3TZf.png?1)
Also, isn't RGBLight_Enable already uncommented in the Makefile?
Sorry if this isn't a ton of information to go off of. This is most definitely not my area of expertise.
Sorry about that! In my haste to get this out there I missed committing that fix. Edit led.c and change "led_set" to "led_set_kb". We just got to LA and are about to go to dinner, I will commit the fix tomorrow.
In the meantime, if you just want to enable RGB you can try this hex: https://www.dropbox.com/s/9qas00d813qqi3q/clueboard2.hex?dl=0
I was able to compile a firmware with the change to the led.c file, but the backlight functionality doesn't appear to be working for me. The LEDs seem to be installed correctly because they flash when I plug in the board (they did this on the old firmware as well). I'll continue to troubleshoot this afternoon.
How would I go about putting the hex file you linked onto my Clueboard? I've been uploading with the 'make dfu' in the terminal.
Try this:
Code: [Select]
dfu-programmer atmega32u4 erase || dfu-programmer $(MCU) erase --force
dfu-programmer atmega32u4 flash clueboard2.hex
dfu-programmer atmega32u4 reset
Post by: yinzer on Thu, 31 March 2016, 12:57:09
I can't tell if this is a firmware issue or if there is something wrong with my assembly. When I plug in the keyboard, some of the LEDs flash. So, at least some of them are installed correctly and receiving power. However, if one of the contacts on one of the LEDs isn't receiving power, would that prevent the back-light from working from a programming standpoint? Or would just those not properly installed not work?
Okay. It appears that problem was the result of poor installation. However, a new problem has presented itself.
After adding a generous amount of solder to the LED pads, the lights all light up when plugged in. It appears that by default, the LED program is a red pattern where each light flashes in a circular pattern. Each LED lights up.
I am not able to make changes to this through the shortcuts that are listed above. It does not appear to be a problem with the FN + S binding, because I am able to Reset the keyboard through FN+S+R.
Any thoughts team? Is anyone else on this stage of their 2.0 build?
Post by: Wannabe on Sat, 02 April 2016, 10:45:41
So, I'm having a little trouble making a hex file. I'm not making a custom keymap at this time, just trying to get the RGB lights to work. I'm able to make a Clueboard1 hex without any trouble. However, Clueboard2 results in an error 1. It looks like the failure has something to do with "multiple definitions of 'led_set'Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/bdI3TZf.png?1)
Also, isn't RGBLight_Enable already uncommented in the Makefile?
Sorry if this isn't a ton of information to go off of. This is most definitely not my area of expertise.
Sorry about that! In my haste to get this out there I missed committing that fix. Edit led.c and change "led_set" to "led_set_kb". We just got to LA and are about to go to dinner, I will commit the fix tomorrow.
In the meantime, if you just want to enable RGB you can try this hex: https://www.dropbox.com/s/9qas00d813qqi3q/clueboard2.hex?dl=0
Have these changes been committed to github? About to start building by 2.0 today. Also, not a huge problem, but on my Clueboard 1.0, sometimes when I boot my PC and it goes to login screen, I have to unplug and plug back in the keyboard for it to recognize to type in password. Doesn't happen every time though. I'm on Win10.
Post by: yinzer on Sat, 02 April 2016, 12:52:30
https://www.instagram.com/p/BDtOmcFxP8A/ (https://www.instagram.com/p/BDtOmcFxP8A/)
low-quality GIF version:
(https://media.giphy.com/media/1RqcY1Zc3gfo4/giphy.gif)
Post by: merlin64 on Mon, 04 April 2016, 14:44:59
Post by: Wannabe on Mon, 04 April 2016, 15:15:44
Here's a video of the LED in action from my instagram. I still haven't quite gotten to figuring out how to make changes, but the WS2812Bs most definitely work at this point. :D
https://www.instagram.com/p/BDtOmcFxP8A/ (https://www.instagram.com/p/BDtOmcFxP8A/)
low-quality GIF version:Show Image(https://media.giphy.com/media/1RqcY1Zc3gfo4/giphy.gif)
Is that JTK White/Purple? What layout are you using? I'm wanting to use that set on mine. The set didn't come with a 2nd 2.25x shift key for Right Shift so I'm not quite sure what to do with R4. The Tsangen shift that came with JTK and is used on 75% boards isn't an option as far as I can tell.
Post by: yinzer on Mon, 04 April 2016, 18:24:04
Here's a video of the LED in action from my instagram. I still haven't quite gotten to figuring out how to make changes, but the WS2812Bs most definitely work at this point. :D
https://www.instagram.com/p/BDtOmcFxP8A/ (https://www.instagram.com/p/BDtOmcFxP8A/)
low-quality GIF version:Show Image(https://media.giphy.com/media/1RqcY1Zc3gfo4/giphy.gif)
Is that JTK White/Purple? What layout are you using? I'm wanting to use that set on mine. The set didn't come with a 2nd 2.25x shift key for Right Shift so I'm not quite sure what to do with R4. The Tsangen shift that came with JTK and is used on 75% boards isn't an option as far as I can tell.
On the 2.0 PCB you can replace the 2.25 left key with a 1u and 1.25u key. No bastard shift needed.
Post by: Wannabe on Mon, 04 April 2016, 18:45:23
Here's a video of the LED in action from my instagram. I still haven't quite gotten to figuring out how to make changes, but the WS2812Bs most definitely work at this point. :D
https://www.instagram.com/p/BDtOmcFxP8A/ (https://www.instagram.com/p/BDtOmcFxP8A/)
low-quality GIF version:Show Image(https://media.giphy.com/media/1RqcY1Zc3gfo4/giphy.gif)
Is that JTK White/Purple? What layout are you using? I'm wanting to use that set on mine. The set didn't come with a 2nd 2.25x shift key for Right Shift so I'm not quite sure what to do with R4. The Tsangen shift that came with JTK and is used on 75% boards isn't an option as far as I can tell.
On the 2.0 PCB you can replace the 2.25 left key with a 1u and 1.25u key. No bastard shift needed.
So what key are you using for right shift? I thought the only 1.25 that came with JTK are ctrl, alt, win, and menu keys
Post by: yinzer on Mon, 04 April 2016, 18:52:42
Here's a video of the LED in action from my instagram. I still haven't quite gotten to figuring out how to make changes, but the WS2812Bs most definitely work at this point. :D
https://www.instagram.com/p/BDtOmcFxP8A/ (https://www.instagram.com/p/BDtOmcFxP8A/)
low-quality GIF version:Show Image(https://media.giphy.com/media/1RqcY1Zc3gfo4/giphy.gif)
Is that JTK White/Purple? What layout are you using? I'm wanting to use that set on mine. The set didn't come with a 2nd 2.25x shift key for Right Shift so I'm not quite sure what to do with R4. The Tsangen shift that came with JTK and is used on 75% boards isn't an option as far as I can tell.
On the 2.0 PCB you can replace the 2.25 left key with a 1u and 1.25u key. No bastard shift needed.
So what key are you using for right shift? I thought the only 1.25 that came with JTK are ctrl, alt, win, and menu keys
I used the menu key and the compass star.
Post by: Wannabe on Mon, 04 April 2016, 19:12:56
Here's a video of the LED in action from my instagram. I still haven't quite gotten to figuring out how to make changes, but the WS2812Bs most definitely work at this point. :D
https://www.instagram.com/p/BDtOmcFxP8A/ (https://www.instagram.com/p/BDtOmcFxP8A/)
low-quality GIF version:Show Image(https://media.giphy.com/media/1RqcY1Zc3gfo4/giphy.gif)
Is that JTK White/Purple? What layout are you using? I'm wanting to use that set on mine. The set didn't come with a 2nd 2.25x shift key for Right Shift so I'm not quite sure what to do with R4. The Tsangen shift that came with JTK and is used on 75% boards isn't an option as far as I can tell.
On the 2.0 PCB you can replace the 2.25 left key with a 1u and 1.25u key. No bastard shift needed.
So what key are you using for right shift? I thought the only 1.25 that came with JTK are ctrl, alt, win, and menu keys
I used the menu key and the compass star.
Ah awesome! I'll have to consider using that layout. Love the board...especially the meow cap.
Post by: derezzed on Mon, 04 April 2016, 20:32:29
Post by: skullydazed on Mon, 04 April 2016, 21:03:04
One of the images on the Clueboard store's PCB page (https://shop.clueboard.co/Clueboard-66-PCB-Version-2-0.html) shows a lot of light under the keys. Do you have Zealios on that board? Does enough light shine through the holes in the PCB to backlight the keys? I won't get the benefit of underlighting with my aluminum case. Backlight has never mattered to me but I'm strongly considering buying LEDs to put on the Clueboard when I buy it, if the keys will be lit. I have a dark gray case. Would painting the inside of the case with a chrome, or other highly reflective paint, have an appreciable effect on the amount of light that shines through the PCB?
That particular board is gateron blacks with a white acrylic plate. The light shines through both the plate and the switches to create that underglow effect. I haven't yet experimented with the aluminum cases but yes, if you paint the inside with something reflective you will get a lot of light shining through clear switches. I think the effect would be even better if you have a clear or white acrylic plate rather than an aluminum plate.
Post by: derezzed on Mon, 04 April 2016, 21:27:43
Post by: skullydazed on Mon, 04 April 2016, 22:55:38
Do you sell acrylic plates for the FC660m case? Right now, the lack of availability of plates is the only thing holding up my purchase.
I'm working out how to offer this as a service, but PM or email me and I'll point you to what I have for that so far. I can laser cut acrylic plates for pretty much anything.
Post by: merlin64 on Tue, 05 April 2016, 12:53:44
Post by: yinzer on Tue, 05 April 2016, 13:01:31
I've read that WS2811 active LEDs are pretty much the same thing as the one you recommended. Does this work as well?
It looks like those have 6 contact pads while the recommended WS2812Bs have 4.
It might be different if you are using a strip with the V1 PCB -- but the V2 PCB LED definitely only has 4 pads.
If someone else claims that this will work, I wouldn't argue otherwise.
Post by: pwade3 on Tue, 05 April 2016, 13:04:58
I can't decide what keyset I have in mind for the board, so that's not helping either. :confused:
Post by: skullydazed on Tue, 05 April 2016, 22:32:43
I've read that WS2811 active LEDs are pretty much the same thing as the one you recommended. Does this work as well?
Yinzer is correct, you need WS2812B's. You can also use WS2812C's, which are not as bright but otherwise compatible. If you are using an RGB strip instead of the pads you can use any WS2811/WS2812 based LED strip.
Post by: skullydazed on Tue, 05 April 2016, 23:01:52
Post by: merlin64 on Tue, 05 April 2016, 23:46:05
I've read that WS2811 active LEDs are pretty much the same thing as the one you recommended. Does this work as well?
Yinzer is correct, you need WS2812B's. You can also use WS2812C's, which are not as bright but otherwise compatible. If you are using an RGB strip instead of the pads you can use any WS2811/WS2812 based LED strip.
Ahh ok, reason I ask is that I can find those locally. Sparkfun seems to have messed up my shipping. Tracking shows that it arrived at my office but no one ever saw it being delivered. Hopefully I get those LEDs in soon!
Post by: yinzer on Wed, 06 April 2016, 10:23:53
The firmware has been fixed! Please update your copies and let me know if you run into any more problems.
I'm still not able to control the LED options through the keyboard shortcuts. Though, looking at the update times on GitHub, it doesn't look like you made any changes to the default keymap. I've flashed both the default keymap and your keymap.
Also, I'm not sure if this is just me or not. I haven't seen anyone else post their new Clueboards with the RGB underlights. I wouldn't rule out a problem with the install, but all of the lights are lighting up in that red pattern as seen in the gif I posted. The only thing I could think of is that the pattern on the red lights is a signal for where there is a break in the chain, but I haven't been able to find anything that suggests that feature is built into QMK.
Post by: Wannabe on Wed, 06 April 2016, 13:18:20
The firmware has been fixed! Please update your copies and let me know if you run into any more problems.
I'm still not able to control the LED options through the keyboard shortcuts. Though, looking at the update times on GitHub, it doesn't look like you made any changes to the default keymap. I've flashed both the default keymap and your keymap.
Also, I'm not sure if this is just me or not. I haven't seen anyone else post their new Clueboards with the RGB underlights. I wouldn't rule out a problem with the install, but all of the lights are lighting up in that red pattern as seen in the gif I posted. The only thing I could think of is that the pattern on the red lights is a signal for where there is a break in the chain, but I haven't been able to find anything that suggests that feature is built into QMK.
I should hopefully have my 2.0 up and running this weekend. I'm using the underlighting so I'll let you know what happens with mine.
Post by: skullydazed on Wed, 06 April 2016, 13:27:07
The firmware has been fixed! Please update your copies and let me know if you run into any more problems.
I'm still not able to control the LED options through the keyboard shortcuts. Though, looking at the update times on GitHub, it doesn't look like you made any changes to the default keymap. I've flashed both the default keymap and your keymap.
Also, I'm not sure if this is just me or not. I haven't seen anyone else post their new Clueboards with the RGB underlights. I wouldn't rule out a problem with the install, but all of the lights are lighting up in that red pattern as seen in the gif I posted. The only thing I could think of is that the pattern on the red lights is a signal for where there is a break in the chain, but I haven't been able to find anything that suggests that feature is built into QMK.
What happens when you press Fn+R+Space several times?
Post by: yinzer on Wed, 06 April 2016, 14:07:55
The firmware has been fixed! Please update your copies and let me know if you run into any more problems.
I'm still not able to control the LED options through the keyboard shortcuts. Though, looking at the update times on GitHub, it doesn't look like you made any changes to the default keymap. I've flashed both the default keymap and your keymap.
Also, I'm not sure if this is just me or not. I haven't seen anyone else post their new Clueboards with the RGB underlights. I wouldn't rule out a problem with the install, but all of the lights are lighting up in that red pattern as seen in the gif I posted. The only thing I could think of is that the pattern on the red lights is a signal for where there is a break in the chain, but I haven't been able to find anything that suggests that feature is built into QMK.
What happens when you press Fn+R+Space several times?
The letter 'r' and then several spaces.
Post by: skullydazed on Wed, 06 April 2016, 17:13:17
The firmware has been fixed! Please update your copies and let me know if you run into any more problems.
I'm still not able to control the LED options through the keyboard shortcuts. Though, looking at the update times on GitHub, it doesn't look like you made any changes to the default keymap. I've flashed both the default keymap and your keymap.
Also, I'm not sure if this is just me or not. I haven't seen anyone else post their new Clueboards with the RGB underlights. I wouldn't rule out a problem with the install, but all of the lights are lighting up in that red pattern as seen in the gif I posted. The only thing I could think of is that the pattern on the red lights is a signal for where there is a break in the chain, but I haven't been able to find anything that suggests that feature is built into QMK.
What happens when you press Fn+R+Space several times?
The letter 'r' and then several spaces.
Whatever you're pressing for Fn isn't actually Fn. Can you try something like Passmark or the OS X keyboard viewer to see what key lights up when you press what you think Fn is?
Post by: yinzer on Wed, 06 April 2016, 19:53:14
The firmware has been fixed! Please update your copies and let me know if you run into any more problems.
I'm still not able to control the LED options through the keyboard shortcuts. Though, looking at the update times on GitHub, it doesn't look like you made any changes to the default keymap. I've flashed both the default keymap and your keymap.
Also, I'm not sure if this is just me or not. I haven't seen anyone else post their new Clueboards with the RGB underlights. I wouldn't rule out a problem with the install, but all of the lights are lighting up in that red pattern as seen in the gif I posted. The only thing I could think of is that the pattern on the red lights is a signal for where there is a break in the chain, but I haven't been able to find anything that suggests that feature is built into QMK.
What happens when you press Fn+R+Space several times?
The letter 'r' and then several spaces.
Whatever you're pressing for Fn isn't actually Fn. Can you try something like Passmark or the OS X keyboard viewer to see what key lights up when you press what you think Fn is?
So, function isn't displaying in those programs. However, it still seems to work as intended. In those programs, Fn + Backspace will register as Delete. I can do Fn + a number for the Function row or Fn + S + R to reset.
It's just that the LED control doesn't seem to work for me.
Post by: Wannabe on Wed, 06 April 2016, 22:25:20
The firmware has been fixed! Please update your copies and let me know if you run into any more problems.
I'm still not able to control the LED options through the keyboard shortcuts. Though, looking at the update times on GitHub, it doesn't look like you made any changes to the default keymap. I've flashed both the default keymap and your keymap.
Also, I'm not sure if this is just me or not. I haven't seen anyone else post their new Clueboards with the RGB underlights. I wouldn't rule out a problem with the install, but all of the lights are lighting up in that red pattern as seen in the gif I posted. The only thing I could think of is that the pattern on the red lights is a signal for where there is a break in the chain, but I haven't been able to find anything that suggests that feature is built into QMK.
What happens when you press Fn+R+Space several times?
The letter 'r' and then several spaces.
Whatever you're pressing for Fn isn't actually Fn. Can you try something like Passmark or the OS X keyboard viewer to see what key lights up when you press what you think Fn is?
So, function isn't displaying in those programs. However, it still seems to work as intended. In those programs, Fn + Backspace will register as Delete. I can do Fn + a number for the Function row or Fn + S + R to reset.
It's just that the LED control doesn't seem to work for me.
Just tested PassMark on my 1.0 and that's how mine works too. Nothing registers/lights up when I press Fn, but all the Fn shortcuts register. Though when I change the keyboard type to the Dell Port laptop keyboard, Fn is yellowed out and listed as not testable.
Post by: skullydazed on Thu, 07 April 2016, 02:17:27
The firmware has been fixed! Please update your copies and let me know if you run into any more problems.
I'm still not able to control the LED options through the keyboard shortcuts. Though, looking at the update times on GitHub, it doesn't look like you made any changes to the default keymap. I've flashed both the default keymap and your keymap.
Also, I'm not sure if this is just me or not. I haven't seen anyone else post their new Clueboards with the RGB underlights. I wouldn't rule out a problem with the install, but all of the lights are lighting up in that red pattern as seen in the gif I posted. The only thing I could think of is that the pattern on the red lights is a signal for where there is a break in the chain, but I haven't been able to find anything that suggests that feature is built into QMK.
What happens when you press Fn+R+Space several times?
The letter 'r' and then several spaces.
Whatever you're pressing for Fn isn't actually Fn. Can you try something like Passmark or the OS X keyboard viewer to see what key lights up when you press what you think Fn is?
So, function isn't displaying in those programs. However, it still seems to work as intended. In those programs, Fn + Backspace will register as Delete. I can do Fn + a number for the Function row or Fn + S + R to reset.
It's just that the LED control doesn't seem to work for me.
Sorry, looking back I made a mistake in what I told you. What happens when you press Fn+S+Space a few times?
(I was thinking of the reset command, which is Fn+S+R)
Post by: yinzer on Thu, 07 April 2016, 07:05:04
So, function isn't displaying in those programs. However, it still seems to work as intended. In those programs, Fn + Backspace will register as Delete. I can do Fn + a number for the Function row or Fn + S + R to reset.
It's just that the LED control doesn't seem to work for me.
Sorry, looking back I made a mistake in what I told you. What happens when you press Fn+S+Space a few times?
(I was thinking of the reset command, which is Fn+S+R)
I get spaces. For whatever reason, the LED commands in the Reset layer act as if they are transparent. As I said, I'm not 100% sure that this isn't the result of an installation error, but I feel as if those commands would probably be non-responsive as opposed to having some sort of input.
Post by: skullydazed on Thu, 07 April 2016, 13:22:02
So, function isn't displaying in those programs. However, it still seems to work as intended. In those programs, Fn + Backspace will register as Delete. I can do Fn + a number for the Function row or Fn + S + R to reset.
It's just that the LED control doesn't seem to work for me.
Sorry, looking back I made a mistake in what I told you. What happens when you press Fn+S+Space a few times?
(I was thinking of the reset command, which is Fn+S+R)
I get spaces. For whatever reason, the LED commands in the Reset layer act as if they are transparent. As I said, I'm not 100% sure that this isn't the result of an installation error, but I feel as if those commands would probably be non-responsive as opposed to having some sort of input.
My day is pretty booked, but tonight I will doublecheck what is posted and create a firmware that I know works, and have you try that hex. Then we can narrow down whether it's a software or hardware issue. My gut says software.
Post by: Wannabe on Fri, 08 April 2016, 18:00:35
So, function isn't displaying in those programs. However, it still seems to work as intended. In those programs, Fn + Backspace will register as Delete. I can do Fn + a number for the Function row or Fn + S + R to reset.
It's just that the LED control doesn't seem to work for me.
Sorry, looking back I made a mistake in what I told you. What happens when you press Fn+S+Space a few times?
(I was thinking of the reset command, which is Fn+S+R)
I get spaces. For whatever reason, the LED commands in the Reset layer act as if they are transparent. As I said, I'm not 100% sure that this isn't the result of an installation error, but I feel as if those commands would probably be non-responsive as opposed to having some sort of input.
I'm getting the same thing. Only one of my LEDs is flashing red, and none of the Fn+S layer stuff seems to work. Using the default everything. Made sure rgb was enabled in Makefile and did a make and loaded it up. All other keys work and the normal Fn layer stuff works. Fn+Backspace registers as Delete etc. Fn+S+Spacebar just gives me spaces too.
Post by: yinzer on Fri, 08 April 2016, 18:03:09
I'm getting the same thing. Only one of my LEDs is flashing red, and none of the Fn+S layer stuff seems to work. Using the default everything. Made sure rgb was enabled in Makefile and did a make and loaded it up. All other keys work and the normal Fn layer stuff works. Fn+Backspace registers as Delete etc. Fn+S+Spacebar just gives me spaces too.
Try adding more solder to the LEDs. I only had a few lighting up at first, but then I added more solder to the pads and I eventually got them all to light up.
Post by: Wannabe on Fri, 08 April 2016, 18:12:15
I'm getting the same thing. Only one of my LEDs is flashing red, and none of the Fn+S layer stuff seems to work. Using the default everything. Made sure rgb was enabled in Makefile and did a make and loaded it up. All other keys work and the normal Fn layer stuff works. Fn+Backspace registers as Delete etc. Fn+S+Spacebar just gives me spaces too.
Try adding more solder to the LEDs. I only had a few lighting up at first, but then I added more solder to the pads and I eventually got them all to light up.
Yea working on that. When I first plugged in the keyboard all the LEDs briefly flashed blue, but the only one LED under left control started blinking red while the others aren't on at all.
Post by: yinzer on Fri, 08 April 2016, 18:15:33
^-^
I'm getting the same thing. Only one of my LEDs is flashing red, and none of the Fn+S layer stuff seems to work. Using the default everything. Made sure rgb was enabled in Makefile and did a make and loaded it up. All other keys work and the normal Fn layer stuff works. Fn+Backspace registers as Delete etc. Fn+S+Spacebar just gives me spaces too.
Try adding more solder to the LEDs. I only had a few lighting up at first, but then I added more solder to the pads and I eventually got them all to light up.
Yea working on that. When I first plugged in the keyboard all the LEDs briefly flashed blue, but the only one LED under left control started blinking red while the others aren't on at all.
That's exactly what I had at first. Not all of your LEDs may need more solder. Take a note of which LED is flashing and then add solder to the two switches next to it. Rinse and repeat as necessary. The flash sequence starts with the second or third from the left on the bottom.. or, at least that's what mine did.
Post by: Wannabe on Fri, 08 April 2016, 18:17:43
^-^
I'm getting the same thing. Only one of my LEDs is flashing red, and none of the Fn+S layer stuff seems to work. Using the default everything. Made sure rgb was enabled in Makefile and did a make and loaded it up. All other keys work and the normal Fn layer stuff works. Fn+Backspace registers as Delete etc. Fn+S+Spacebar just gives me spaces too.
Try adding more solder to the LEDs. I only had a few lighting up at first, but then I added more solder to the pads and I eventually got them all to light up.
Yea working on that. When I first plugged in the keyboard all the LEDs briefly flashed blue, but the only one LED under left control started blinking red while the others aren't on at all.
That's exactly what I had at first. Not all of your LEDs may need more solder. Take a note of which LED is flashing and then add solder to the two switches next to it. Rinse and repeat as necessary. The flash sequence starts with the second or third from the left on the bottom.. or, at least that's what mine did.
Add solder to the key switches to help fix the LEDs?
Post by: yinzer on Fri, 08 April 2016, 18:19:44
^-^
I'm getting the same thing. Only one of my LEDs is flashing red, and none of the Fn+S layer stuff seems to work. Using the default everything. Made sure rgb was enabled in Makefile and did a make and loaded it up. All other keys work and the normal Fn layer stuff works. Fn+Backspace registers as Delete etc. Fn+S+Spacebar just gives me spaces too.
Try adding more solder to the LEDs. I only had a few lighting up at first, but then I added more solder to the pads and I eventually got them all to light up.
Yea working on that. When I first plugged in the keyboard all the LEDs briefly flashed blue, but the only one LED under left control started blinking red while the others aren't on at all.
That's exactly what I had at first. Not all of your LEDs may need more solder. Take a note of which LED is flashing and then add solder to the two switches next to it. Rinse and repeat as necessary. The flash sequence starts with the second or third from the left on the bottom.. or, at least that's what mine did.
Add solder to the key switches to help fix the LEDs?
No. That was me being dumb and getting my words jumbled.
Solder the two LEDs next to the one that's lighting up. My pattern goes clock-wise from the one that you have lighting up and then it 'bounces' back around.
Post by: Wannabe on Fri, 08 April 2016, 21:58:50
Post by: skullydazed on Sat, 09 April 2016, 00:07:27
So I now currently have 2 blinking reddish/orange LEDs near the arrow keys on the bottom row and one solid bright pink near Esc. I'm pretty sure all of my LEDs are on correctly. They all briefly flash when I unplug and then plug it back in.
That seems to mean the power pins are connected OK but the data pins are not. The pin with the line next to it is GND, and the pin kitty corner from that is VCC. You don't have to mess with those if it flashes when you plug it in.
The first LED is the one by the arrows. The pin closest to the bottom row, on the same side as the pin with the line, is the DIN pin. The pin kitty corner from that is DOUT. You can trace the chain around the PCB from there, finding the second LED between SLASH and RSHIFT. Follow those around one by one, double checking the solder joints at the DIN of the first one that does not light, and DOUT of the last one that lights.
I'm sorry I haven't had a chance to get the firmware built and double-checked yet. I'm working on it still.
Post by: Wannabe on Sat, 09 April 2016, 00:29:59
Post by: yinzer on Sun, 10 April 2016, 19:38:54
So I now currently have 2 blinking reddish/orange LEDs near the arrow keys on the bottom row and one solid bright pink near Esc. I'm pretty sure all of my LEDs are on correctly. They all briefly flash when I unplug and then plug it back in.
That seems to mean the power pins are connected OK but the data pins are not. The pin with the line next to it is GND, and the pin kitty corner from that is VCC. You don't have to mess with those if it flashes when you plug it in.
The first LED is the one by the arrows. The pin closest to the bottom row, on the same side as the pin with the line, is the DIN pin. The pin kitty corner from that is DOUT. You can trace the chain around the PCB from there, finding the second LED between SLASH and RSHIFT. Follow those around one by one, double checking the solder joints at the DIN of the first one that does not light, and DOUT of the last one that lights.
I'm sorry I haven't had a chance to get the firmware built and double-checked yet. I'm working on it still.
Wait, is this the case with my PCB with the red flashing pattern as well or just for what Wannabe described?
Post by: skullydazed on Sun, 10 April 2016, 23:19:27
So I now currently have 2 blinking reddish/orange LEDs near the arrow keys on the bottom row and one solid bright pink near Esc. I'm pretty sure all of my LEDs are on correctly. They all briefly flash when I unplug and then plug it back in.
That seems to mean the power pins are connected OK but the data pins are not. The pin with the line next to it is GND, and the pin kitty corner from that is VCC. You don't have to mess with those if it flashes when you plug it in.
The first LED is the one by the arrows. The pin closest to the bottom row, on the same side as the pin with the line, is the DIN pin. The pin kitty corner from that is DOUT. You can trace the chain around the PCB from there, finding the second LED between SLASH and RSHIFT. Follow those around one by one, double checking the solder joints at the DIN of the first one that does not light, and DOUT of the last one that lights.
I'm sorry I haven't had a chance to get the firmware built and double-checked yet. I'm working on it still.
Wait, is this the case with my PCB with the red flashing pattern as well or just for what Wannabe described?
If all the lights flash then your hardware is OK, and what you have is a software problem. Speaking of, I have a fix!
Thanks to a pointer from longhorn on irc, I committed and pushed the fix needed to enable and use RGB Underlighting. If you just want to flash a firmware that I have tested as working, grab this:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/fsg819qzb2mjx87/clueboard2.hex?dl=0
Once you flash that you can hit Fn+S+Spacebar to successfully toggle between modes.
Post by: yinzer on Mon, 11 April 2016, 07:07:12
So I now currently have 2 blinking reddish/orange LEDs near the arrow keys on the bottom row and one solid bright pink near Esc. I'm pretty sure all of my LEDs are on correctly. They all briefly flash when I unplug and then plug it back in.
That seems to mean the power pins are connected OK but the data pins are not. The pin with the line next to it is GND, and the pin kitty corner from that is VCC. You don't have to mess with those if it flashes when you plug it in.
The first LED is the one by the arrows. The pin closest to the bottom row, on the same side as the pin with the line, is the DIN pin. The pin kitty corner from that is DOUT. You can trace the chain around the PCB from there, finding the second LED between SLASH and RSHIFT. Follow those around one by one, double checking the solder joints at the DIN of the first one that does not light, and DOUT of the last one that lights.
I'm sorry I haven't had a chance to get the firmware built and double-checked yet. I'm working on it still.
Wait, is this the case with my PCB with the red flashing pattern as well or just for what Wannabe described?
If all the lights flash then your hardware is OK, and what you have is a software problem. Speaking of, I have a fix!
Thanks to a pointer from longhorn on irc, I committed and pushed the fix needed to enable and use RGB Underlighting. If you just want to flash a firmware that I have tested as working, grab this:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/fsg819qzb2mjx87/clueboard2.hex?dl=0
Once you flash that you can hit Fn+S+Spacebar to successfully toggle between modes.
(http://i.imgur.com/BNmatjS.jpg?1)
:thumb: :thumb: :thumb:
The hex you provided definitely works.
Post by: skullydazed on Tue, 12 April 2016, 19:32:46
So I now currently have 2 blinking reddish/orange LEDs near the arrow keys on the bottom row and one solid bright pink near Esc. I'm pretty sure all of my LEDs are on correctly. They all briefly flash when I unplug and then plug it back in.
That seems to mean the power pins are connected OK but the data pins are not. The pin with the line next to it is GND, and the pin kitty corner from that is VCC. You don't have to mess with those if it flashes when you plug it in.
The first LED is the one by the arrows. The pin closest to the bottom row, on the same side as the pin with the line, is the DIN pin. The pin kitty corner from that is DOUT. You can trace the chain around the PCB from there, finding the second LED between SLASH and RSHIFT. Follow those around one by one, double checking the solder joints at the DIN of the first one that does not light, and DOUT of the last one that lights.
I'm sorry I haven't had a chance to get the firmware built and double-checked yet. I'm working on it still.
Wait, is this the case with my PCB with the red flashing pattern as well or just for what Wannabe described?
If all the lights flash then your hardware is OK, and what you have is a software problem. Speaking of, I have a fix!
Thanks to a pointer from longhorn on irc, I committed and pushed the fix needed to enable and use RGB Underlighting. If you just want to flash a firmware that I have tested as working, grab this:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/fsg819qzb2mjx87/clueboard2.hex?dl=0
Once you flash that you can hit Fn+S+Spacebar to successfully toggle between modes.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/BNmatjS.jpg?1)
:thumb: :thumb: :thumb:
The hex you provided definitely works.
Awesome! Thanks for confirming it! :thumb:
Post by: JaccoW on Wed, 13 April 2016, 00:47:33
It looks great. I'll make some pictures soon. :thumb:
I did just realize that the aluminum alps plate does not have the option for an 1.75x + 1x right shift.
Ah well.
Post by: skullydazed on Wed, 13 April 2016, 12:33:01
Got my Clueboard yesterday... together with a hefty tax. But that's the risk of international shipping.
It looks great. I'll make some pictures soon. :thumb:
I did just realize that the aluminum alps plate does not have the option for an 1.75x + 1x right shift.
Ah well.
I always feel badly for those of you who have to deal with customs tax. But glad you got it ok and hope you enjoy it!
Unfortunately I can't do much about Alps in that regard. If I add switch cutouts to support split shift the stabilizers will have nowhere to clip into. The next iteration will support more bottom row options, however.
Post by: StormyMonday on Wed, 13 April 2016, 15:37:30
I'd definitely be interested in additional Alps bottom row options for myself, though.
Post by: merlin64 on Fri, 15 April 2016, 20:08:32
Anyone got any tips?
Post by: StormyMonday on Fri, 15 April 2016, 21:16:33
For you folks getting the v2.0 PCB ... there are only 16 of those strips left on Sparkfun .. I'd be surprised if they didn't restock soon, but if you're really geeked about getting that under-light, I'd move on these. ;)
If Sparkfun runs out of the individual LEDs, Mouser is also stocking them. Can't remember if I saw the strips on Mouser, or not.
I noticed that a couple of eBay vendors carry both the individuals and the strips.
Post by: skullydazed on Sat, 16 April 2016, 13:57:09
leds came in today and I am beginning to realize that I am a horrible surface mount solderer. I have a stock 2.0 board and I haven't tried flashing any firmware. I've soldered in 4 right now using different techniques, are any of them supposed to light up when I plug the board in?
Anyone got any tips?
They won't light up until you flash the firmware.
I recommend starting with RGB1, which is the one near the arrows. Solder that one in place, flash the firmware, attempt to turn on underlighting. If it doesn't light up, one of the solder joints isn't attached well enough. I will make a video this weekend to demonstrate how I do it.
Post by: merlin64 on Sat, 16 April 2016, 14:03:26
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
Post by: alexjj on Sat, 16 April 2016, 14:48:04
(https://i.imgur.com/6dyByGMl.jpg)
:(
Post by: vivalarevolución on Sat, 16 April 2016, 21:15:31
Unfortunately I can't do much about Alps in that regard. If I add switch cutouts to support split shift the stabilizers will have nowhere to clip into. The next iteration will support more bottom row options, however.
Yea, I noticed the PCB is compatible with many different Alps layouts, but the plate is the limiting factor at this stage. Even if you do create an Alps plate with more layout options, we are limited by the Alps keycap availability for various layouts on the shift row and bottom row.
I'm also wondering if someone could mess around with Swill's plate building tool to make their own Alps plates that are compatible with all the layouts on your PCB.
Post by: StormyMonday on Sat, 16 April 2016, 21:44:11
Unfortunately I can't do much about Alps in that regard. If I add switch cutouts to support split shift the stabilizers will have nowhere to clip into. The next iteration will support more bottom row options, however.
Yea, I noticed the PCB is compatible with many different Alps layouts, but the plate is the limiting factor at this stage. Even if you do create an Alps plate with more layout options, we are limited by the Alps keycap availability for various layouts on the shift row and bottom row.
I'm also wondering if someone could mess around with Swill's plate building tool to make their own Alps plates that are compatible with all the layouts on your PCB.
Swill's tool accepts the output from www.keyboard-layout-editor.com, so it's dead simple to generate plates and skeleton cases.
Post by: skullydazed on Sun, 17 April 2016, 17:02:00
Unfortunately I can't do much about Alps in that regard. If I add switch cutouts to support split shift the stabilizers will have nowhere to clip into. The next iteration will support more bottom row options, however.
Yea, I noticed the PCB is compatible with many different Alps layouts, but the plate is the limiting factor at this stage. Even if you do create an Alps plate with more layout options, we are limited by the Alps keycap availability for various layouts on the shift row and bottom row.
I'm also wondering if someone could mess around with Swill's plate building tool to make their own Alps plates that are compatible with all the layouts on your PCB.
The alps plates I'm sending out now look like this:
(http://i.imgur.com/RdbtAjM.png)
This supports all the bottom rows, but I haven't been able to find a way to support more switch locations on the other rows. If a switch cutout overlaps a stabilizer cutout, it means you can't use a stabilized key there at all.
Post by: StormyMonday on Sun, 17 April 2016, 17:19:31
Unfortunately I can't do much about Alps in that regard. If I add switch cutouts to support split shift the stabilizers will have nowhere to clip into. The next iteration will support more bottom row options, however.
Yea, I noticed the PCB is compatible with many different Alps layouts, but the plate is the limiting factor at this stage. Even if you do create an Alps plate with more layout options, we are limited by the Alps keycap availability for various layouts on the shift row and bottom row.
I'm also wondering if someone could mess around with Swill's plate building tool to make their own Alps plates that are compatible with all the layouts on your PCB.
The alps plates I'm sending out now look like this:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/RdbtAjM.png)
This supports all the bottom rows, but I haven't been able to find a way to support more switch locations on the other rows. If a switch cutout overlaps a stabilizer cutout, it means you can't use a stabilized key there at all.
What is the arrangement for the Alps spacebar?
Post by: merlin64 on Tue, 19 April 2016, 10:07:55
Post by: JaccoW on Tue, 19 April 2016, 17:52:59
Here is a teaser of what I plan on doing with the board. It's not soldered yet just sort of assembled with the switches popped in.
First thoughts:
- I need new smaller screws.
- This will be one of my most colorful boards yet. :P
- Unless I can find an Alps spacebar I might just pop in a cherry switch for that key
- It's a good thing Alps DCS Infinity (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=70817.0) came with an extra set of mods with different legends for that second shift.
- Quiet Clicks are really quiet. Even compared to MX Clears :eek:
- I need more Cherry stabs
- My colleagues are going to think this thing is freaky. :))
Post by: skullydazed on Tue, 19 April 2016, 20:12:08
Unfortunately I can't do much about Alps in that regard. If I add switch cutouts to support split shift the stabilizers will have nowhere to clip into. The next iteration will support more bottom row options, however.
Yea, I noticed the PCB is compatible with many different Alps layouts, but the plate is the limiting factor at this stage. Even if you do create an Alps plate with more layout options, we are limited by the Alps keycap availability for various layouts on the shift row and bottom row.
I'm also wondering if someone could mess around with Swill's plate building tool to make their own Alps plates that are compatible with all the layouts on your PCB.
The alps plates I'm sending out now look like this:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/RdbtAjM.png)
This supports all the bottom rows, but I haven't been able to find a way to support more switch locations on the other rows. If a switch cutout overlaps a stabilizer cutout, it means you can't use a stabilized key there at all.
What is the arrangement for the Alps spacebar?
I'm not entirely sure what you're asking here. Are you wondering which sizes work?
Post by: StormyMonday on Tue, 19 April 2016, 22:35:25
Unfortunately I can't do much about Alps in that regard. If I add switch cutouts to support split shift the stabilizers will have nowhere to clip into. The next iteration will support more bottom row options, however.
Yea, I noticed the PCB is compatible with many different Alps layouts, but the plate is the limiting factor at this stage. Even if you do create an Alps plate with more layout options, we are limited by the Alps keycap availability for various layouts on the shift row and bottom row.
I'm also wondering if someone could mess around with Swill's plate building tool to make their own Alps plates that are compatible with all the layouts on your PCB.
The alps plates I'm sending out now look like this:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/RdbtAjM.png)
This supports all the bottom rows, but I haven't been able to find a way to support more switch locations on the other rows. If a switch cutout overlaps a stabilizer cutout, it means you can't use a stabilized key there at all.
What is the arrangement for the Alps spacebar?
I'm not entirely sure what you're asking here. Are you wondering which sizes work?
I was just curious about the stabilizer arrangement for the spacebar. There are no holes in the plate for the short style Alps clips (as used for the other keys) and the holes that are there look to be about 3x too wide for the long style Alps clips. Is the plate cut for Costar?
Post by: skullydazed on Tue, 19 April 2016, 23:39:23
Unfortunately I can't do much about Alps in that regard. If I add switch cutouts to support split shift the stabilizers will have nowhere to clip into. The next iteration will support more bottom row options, however.
Yea, I noticed the PCB is compatible with many different Alps layouts, but the plate is the limiting factor at this stage. Even if you do create an Alps plate with more layout options, we are limited by the Alps keycap availability for various layouts on the shift row and bottom row.
I'm also wondering if someone could mess around with Swill's plate building tool to make their own Alps plates that are compatible with all the layouts on your PCB.
The alps plates I'm sending out now look like this:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/RdbtAjM.png)
This supports all the bottom rows, but I haven't been able to find a way to support more switch locations on the other rows. If a switch cutout overlaps a stabilizer cutout, it means you can't use a stabilized key there at all.
What is the arrangement for the Alps spacebar?
I'm not entirely sure what you're asking here. Are you wondering which sizes work?
I was just curious about the stabilizer arrangement for the spacebar. There are no holes in the plate for the short style Alps clips (as used for the other keys) and the holes that are there look to be about 3x too wide for the long style Alps clips. Is the plate cut for Costar?
Ah, ok. Yeah, that's the scheme that both Tai Hao and Matias caps use. Alps stabs on the short keys and costar for the spacebar. My stabilizer packs support this.
Post by: merlin64 on Wed, 20 April 2016, 01:30:33
Post by: ccarlitos2 on Wed, 20 April 2016, 19:15:51
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: yinzer on Wed, 20 April 2016, 20:18:28
(https://giant.gfycat.com/DifferentEvenHoatzin.gif)
Don't give up on those LEDs! The end results are rad. ;D
Post by: StormyMonday on Wed, 20 April 2016, 20:45:12
Hey! Any timeline as to when the pcbs are gonna be back in stock?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Out of stock?
Now I feel like a douche, 'cause I've been cursing my mailman every afternoon this week! :p
Post by: skullydazed on Wed, 20 April 2016, 20:46:31
Hey! Any timeline as to when the pcbs are gonna be back in stock?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
:confused:
They're still in stock. Are they showing as out of stock for you?
Post by: StormyMonday on Wed, 20 April 2016, 21:25:44
Hey! Any timeline as to when the pcbs are gonna be back in stock?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
:confused:
They're still in stock. Are they showing as out of stock for you?
Looks like your site is jacked up.
When I click on plates, it only shows the Alps plate.
When I click on cases, it shows both plates, but no cases.
Post by: ccarlitos2 on Wed, 20 April 2016, 21:47:41
Hey! Any timeline as to when the pcbs are gonna be back in stock?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
:confused:
They're still in stock. Are they showing as out of stock for you?
Yes it was :(
Post by: merlin64 on Thu, 21 April 2016, 01:12:36
Here are some photos
Changing Colors: Everything on the bottom row to the first two on the top seem to light up correctly, the next set of LEDs are showing different color ranges. The other way this looks acceptable is when I choose the mode that just cycles through all the colors.
[attach=1]
One color: I'm not sure I can tolerate the above case, so I'll stick with single color mode, though for some reason i have one LED that is waaay off.
[attach=2]
Alright I hope that helps someone in the future, but hopefully no one makes this same dastardly mistake. Honestly, I think the best solution is to just buy a whole new PCB. It's not very aesthetically pleasing and pretty much defeats the whole purpose of why I chose clear acrylic.
Post by: skullydazed on Thu, 21 April 2016, 10:49:03
Hey! Any timeline as to when the pcbs are gonna be back in stock?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
:confused:
They're still in stock. Are they showing as out of stock for you?
Looks like your site is jacked up.
When I click on plates, it only shows the Alps plate.
When I click on cases, it shows both plates, but no cases.
I took the MX plate off the site for now, since it's out of stock.
Are you sure that cases is showing you plates, rather than the top plate (which is probably misleading?)
Post by: skullydazed on Thu, 21 April 2016, 10:51:06
For those of you who end up messing up a pad like me, this is what you can do....it's not perfect...results in other issues, but close enough. If ground is top left, you can solder a wire from top right to bottom left of the next LED in the chain. Use a multimeter to double check.
Here are some photos
Changing Colors: Everything on the bottom row to the first two on the top seem to light up correctly, the next set of LEDs are showing different color ranges. The other way this looks acceptable is when I choose the mode that just cycles through all the colors.
(Attachment Link)
One color: I'm not sure I can tolerate the above case, so I'll stick with single color mode, though for some reason i have one LED that is waaay off.
(Attachment Link)
Alright I hope that helps someone in the future, but hopefully no one makes this same dastardly mistake. Honestly, I think the best solution is to just buy a whole new PCB. It's not very aesthetically pleasing and pretty much defeats the whole purpose of why I chose clear acrylic.
Glad you found a way to get that running!
You may want to change which LED's that jumper runs between, it looks like it joins the chain one LED too early, and that may be why that one LED is a weird color?
Post by: merlin64 on Thu, 21 April 2016, 10:53:50
Post by: StormyMonday on Thu, 21 April 2016, 11:28:52
oday.Hey! Any timeline as to when the pcbs are gonna be back in stock?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
:confused:
They're still in stock. Are they showing as out of stock for you?
Looks like your site is jacked up.
When I click on plates, it only shows the Alps plate.
When I click on cases, it shows both plates, but no cases.
I took the MX plate off the site for now, since it's out of stock.
Are you sure that cases is showing you plates, rather than the top plate (which is probably misleading?)
I'm sure - scouts honor!
The good news is that it is working properly today. ; )
Post by: ccarlitos2 on Thu, 21 April 2016, 16:03:11
Post by: redbanshee on Thu, 21 April 2016, 16:22:38
Just out of curiosity is it possible to do a pcb mount clueboard?
If your talking about the acrylic case, you could do a partial plate otherwise no. On the acrylic case the switch plate positions and holds the pcb in place. I think its the same with the aluminum case because there is not actually any screw mounting holes on the pcb at all.
Cluboard v2 pcb has LED support on the arrow cluster, esc, caps and pg up. They will all work in tandem if thats what your asking
Post by: ccarlitos2 on Thu, 21 April 2016, 16:24:16
Awesome thanks for the answer :) is the partial plate just the mods? Is that already on the site or would that have to be custom made?Just out of curiosity is it possible to do a pcb mount clueboard?
If your talking about the acrylic case, you could do a partial plate otherwise no. On the acrylic case the switch plate positions and holds the pcb in place. I think its the same with the aluminum case because there is not actually any screw mounting holes on the pcb at all.
Cluboard v2 pcb has LED support on the arrow cluster, esc, caps and pg up. They will all work in tandem if thats what your asking
Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk
Post by: redbanshee on Thu, 21 April 2016, 16:41:29
Awesome thanks for the answer :) is the partial plate just the mods? Is that already on the site or would that have to be custom made?Just out of curiosity is it possible to do a pcb mount clueboard?
If your talking about the acrylic case, you could do a partial plate otherwise no. On the acrylic case the switch plate positions and holds the pcb in place. I think its the same with the aluminum case because there is not actually any screw mounting holes on the pcb at all.
Cluboard v2 pcb has LED support on the arrow cluster, esc, caps and pg up. They will all work in tandem if thats what your asking
Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk
The partial plate would be the mods, spacebar and you would have to do the number row on the plate too now that im thinking about it (so it would be strong enough). You would have to get it custom.
Post by: ccarlitos2 on Thu, 21 April 2016, 16:42:08
Awesome thanks for the answer :) is the partial plate just the mods? Is that already on the site or would that have to be custom made?Just out of curiosity is it possible to do a pcb mount clueboard?
If your talking about the acrylic case, you could do a partial plate otherwise no. On the acrylic case the switch plate positions and holds the pcb in place. I think its the same with the aluminum case because there is not actually any screw mounting holes on the pcb at all.
Cluboard v2 pcb has LED support on the arrow cluster, esc, caps and pg up. They will all work in tandem if thats what your asking
Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk
The partial plate would be the mods, spacebar and you would have to do the number row on the plate too now that im thinking about it (so it would be strong enough). You would have to get it custom.
Hmm okay! Thanks for the help!
Post by: faxe on Fri, 22 April 2016, 14:48:15
Post by: salasource on Tue, 26 April 2016, 03:25:19
I took the MX plate off the site for now, since it's out of stock.Any info when MX plate will come back to stock?
Post by: faxe on Tue, 26 April 2016, 07:02:18
Post by: Dernubenfrieken on Tue, 26 April 2016, 21:31:02
Also my shift key seems to not work with the default layout, do I just need to install new firmware keymap or what?
Post by: StormyMonday on Tue, 26 April 2016, 21:50:56
Is there any way to get Easy Avr Keymap on the clueboard? I use it for my other keyboards, just curious if I can use it for this too
Also my shift key seems to not work with the default layout, do I just need to install new firmware keymap or what?
http://clueboard.co/support/#/support/errata/
Post by: Dernubenfrieken on Wed, 27 April 2016, 08:37:54
Is there any way to get Easy Avr Keymap on the clueboard? I use it for my other keyboards, just curious if I can use it for this too
Also my shift key seems to not work with the default layout, do I just need to install new firmware keymap or what?
http://clueboard.co/support/#/support/errata/
Thanks!
Post by: pwade3 on Wed, 27 April 2016, 23:27:23
Everything was going well, all my switches are working and don't seem to have any issues, the jumper worked fine for my left shift. I was getting started with the underglow LEDs and I wanted to flash the appropriate firmware, but I cannot get it to work.
I've got qmk set up properly I believe, but when I run a make dfu, the last thing it says is:
"recipe for target 'dfu' failed
make: *** [dfu] Error 4".
When I do just a make, it builds fine. I pressed the reset button on the PCB before doing it.
Does a keymap that doesn't match with the layout on my board prevent the firmware from transferring? If so then I know my problem. If not then I'm lost.
Post by: skullydazed on Thu, 28 April 2016, 00:15:55
So I finally got around to assembling my Clueboard.
Everything was going well, all my switches are working and don't seem to have any issues, the jumper worked fine for my left shift. I was getting started with the underglow LEDs and I wanted to flash the appropriate firmware, but I cannot get it to work.
I've got qmk set up properly I believe, but when I run a make dfu, the last thing it says is:
"recipe for target 'dfu' failed
make: *** [dfu] Error 4".
When I do just a make, it builds fine. I pressed the reset button on the PCB before doing it.
Does a keymap that doesn't match with the layout on my board prevent the firmware from transferring? If so then I know my problem. If not then I'm lost.
There should be some lines above that will give us a clue. Look for the first line that says "dfu-programmer atmega32u4" and past from there until the "Error 4" line.
Post by: pwade3 on Thu, 28 April 2016, 06:58:11
So I finally got around to assembling my Clueboard.
Everything was going well, all my switches are working and don't seem to have any issues, the jumper worked fine for my left shift. I was getting started with the underglow LEDs and I wanted to flash the appropriate firmware, but I cannot get it to work.
I've got qmk set up properly I believe, but when I run a make dfu, the last thing it says is:
"recipe for target 'dfu' failed
make: *** [dfu] Error 4".
When I do just a make, it builds fine. I pressed the reset button on the PCB before doing it.
Does a keymap that doesn't match with the layout on my board prevent the firmware from transferring? If so then I know my problem. If not then I'm lost.
There should be some lines above that will give us a clue. Look for the first line that says "dfu-programmer atmega32u4" and past from there until the "Error 4" line.
dfu-programmer atmega32u4 flash clueboard2.hex
Bootloader and code overlap.
Use --suppress-bootloader-mem to ignore
../../tmk_core/rules.mk:424: recipe for target 'dfu' failed
make: *** [dfu] Error 4
Post by: skullydazed on Thu, 28 April 2016, 11:15:30
So I finally got around to assembling my Clueboard.
Everything was going well, all my switches are working and don't seem to have any issues, the jumper worked fine for my left shift. I was getting started with the underglow LEDs and I wanted to flash the appropriate firmware, but I cannot get it to work.
I've got qmk set up properly I believe, but when I run a make dfu, the last thing it says is:
"recipe for target 'dfu' failed
make: *** [dfu] Error 4".
When I do just a make, it builds fine. I pressed the reset button on the PCB before doing it.
Does a keymap that doesn't match with the layout on my board prevent the firmware from transferring? If so then I know my problem. If not then I'm lost.
There should be some lines above that will give us a clue. Look for the first line that says "dfu-programmer atmega32u4" and past from there until the "Error 4" line.
dfu-programmer atmega32u4 flash clueboard2.hex
Bootloader and code overlap.
Use --suppress-bootloader-mem to ignore
../../tmk_core/rules.mk:424: recipe for target 'dfu' failed
make: *** [dfu] Error 4
Interesting. I just pulled in all the latest changes from QMK, looks like something increased the size of the hex.
Code: [Select]
$ ls -s clueboard2.hex ../../../hexes/clueboard2.hex
144 ../../../hexes/clueboard2.hex
168 clueboard2.hex
I'll dig into what's going on.
Post by: pwade3 on Thu, 28 April 2016, 11:57:04
Interesting. I just pulled in all the latest changes from QMK, looks like something increased the size of the hex.Code: [Select]$ ls -s clueboard2.hex ../../../hexes/clueboard2.hex
144 ../../../hexes/clueboard2.hex
168 clueboard2.hex
I'll dig into what's going on.
Let me know if there's any other info you need from me! :thumb:
Post by: skullydazed on Thu, 28 April 2016, 22:09:17
Interesting. I just pulled in all the latest changes from QMK, looks like something increased the size of the hex.Code: [Select]$ ls -s clueboard2.hex ../../../hexes/clueboard2.hex
144 ../../../hexes/clueboard2.hex
168 clueboard2.hex
I'll dig into what's going on.
Let me know if there's any other info you need from me! :thumb:
OK, I've got it working for now. You can fetch the latest code to build a working firmware.
However, RGB Underlighting does not work. It's adding 4870 bytes to the final hex, pushing up way over the 32k limit. I'm trying to figure out why that is.
Post by: pwade3 on Fri, 29 April 2016, 09:18:25
OK, I've got it working for now. You can fetch the latest code to build a working firmware.
However, RGB Underlighting does not work. It's adding 4870 bytes to the final hex, pushing up way over the 32k limit. I'm trying to figure out why that is.
Thanks for the heads up, might be able to try putting it on when I get home from work.
I think someone posted something saying with certain firmware that the LEDs would flash when plugging in the board, but not be controllable. Don't suppose that's the case for this firmware is it?
Wanted to test one LED before proceeding to solder all of them on. Luckily I'm busy tonight and tomorrow, so I'm not too heartbroken or anything.
Post by: Wannabe on Fri, 29 April 2016, 12:49:18
(http://i.imgur.com/dxW4jcx.jpg)
Here's a normal pic:
(http://i.imgur.com/gEqHvGE.jpg)
I hope to take some better pictures this weekend of the whole thing, including my ghetto LED setup. The 2nd picture does not really do justice to the lovely purpleness of the keyboard....it's hard to tell but the acrylic is purple too. I'm currently using the Left Shift from the Ducky Shine ABS Purple keycap set as my right shift...waiting on a 2.25u Purple 8-bit heart key from KeyPop.
I also used these (http://amzn.com/B00XE6FKCA) bumper/fender fasteners as feet. They were the only thing that could work as feet I could find in purple. Again a little ghetto, but they actually work quite well and are a nice size for a nice slight incline. I 3d printed little balls to go in the center of them to make them more stable but ended up not needing them. The fasteners work great as is adhered to the bottom of the board. You can't see the actual feet in the picture below, but it should give an idea of what the incline is like.
(http://i.imgur.com/yrwrhDK.jpg)
My only issue now is that both my Clueboard 1.0. and my Clueboard 2.0 keyboards both sometimes are not recognized at the Win10 login screen when I boot my computer. I have to unplug and plug them back in to be able to type my password. Doesn't happen every time, but it does happen enough on both of them for me to raise an eyebrow.
Post by: merlin64 on Fri, 29 April 2016, 16:11:14
Post by: skullydazed on Fri, 29 April 2016, 16:23:06
In the meantime I've been investigating other options. My reflow skillet wasn't getting hot enough to reflow these boards, so I'm looking at ways I can make soldering them on cheap enough to offer the service.
Post by: merlin64 on Fri, 29 April 2016, 17:09:30
I can sympathize. The next revision of the PCB will have larger pads there to make soldering that easier. If you're lifting pads it sounds like you may have your iron too hot and/or you may be pressing too hard. A light touch works better here.
In the meantime I've been investigating other options. My reflow skillet wasn't getting hot enough to reflow these boards, so I'm looking at ways I can make soldering them on cheap enough to offer the service.
Thanks skullydazed. Fatter pads would definitely help. The hardest part for me was actually keeping my hands still while soldering. I was considering putting a dab of glue on the bottom just to keep it from moving.
Post by: StormyMonday on Fri, 29 April 2016, 17:37:00
I can sympathize. The next revision of the PCB will have larger pads there to make soldering that easier. If you're lifting pads it sounds like you may have your iron too hot and/or you may be pressing too hard. A light touch works better here.
In the meantime I've been investigating other options. My reflow skillet wasn't getting hot enough to reflow these boards, so I'm looking at ways I can make soldering them on cheap enough to offer the service.
Modded toaster ovens seem to be all the rage, these days. It seems to me the Bpiphany uses a toaster oven, but of course his PCBs are much smaller than the Clueboard.
Post by: skullydazed on Fri, 29 April 2016, 19:25:19
Modded toaster ovens seem to be all the rage, these days. It seems to me the Bpiphany uses a toaster oven, but of course his PCBs are much smaller than the Clueboard.
Size is definitely the hardest problem to solve. My skillet just barely fits a clueboard, it doesn't fit the tk78 or the monarch pcbs at all, so those I have to use air or iron. A toaster oven big enough for the clueboard is pretty expensive, but I've been watching craigslist and the local charity shop.
Post by: skullydazed on Sat, 30 April 2016, 14:04:38
OK, I've got it working for now. You can fetch the latest code to build a working firmware.
However, RGB Underlighting does not work. It's adding 4870 bytes to the final hex, pushing up way over the 32k limit. I'm trying to figure out why that is.
Thanks for the heads up, might be able to try putting it on when I get home from work.
I think someone posted something saying with certain firmware that the LEDs would flash when plugging in the board, but not be controllable. Don't suppose that's the case for this firmware is it?
Wanted to test one LED before proceeding to solder all of them on. Luckily I'm busy tonight and tomorrow, so I'm not too heartbroken or anything.
I think I have some answers here. The combination of options in the Makefile I have published now should result in a firmware of the proper size. If you just want to test you can grab the pre-compiled firmware I published here:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/fue7hcnf9h4n4fz/clueboard2_with_underlight.hex?dl=0
I've been talking to Jack about how to reduce that size for the Clueboard, and have a couple avenues I'm investigating for that so we don't run into this problem again.
Post by: StormyMonday on Sat, 30 April 2016, 15:02:35
I took the Clueboard soldering challenge last night and added the RGB LEDs. I'm anxious to verify that everything works.
Post by: pwade3 on Sat, 30 April 2016, 16:04:00
Post by: skullydazed on Sat, 30 April 2016, 18:19:01
How do I upload just the hex?
Try these commands out:
Code: [Select]
dfu-programmer atmega32u4 erase --force
dfu-programmer atmega32u4 flash clueboard2_with_underlight.hex
dfu-programmer atmega32u4 reset
Post by: skullydazed on Sat, 30 April 2016, 19:06:37
http://configurator.clueboard.co/keyboard/clueboard
The best part is that I've open sourced it. I hope it won't stay limited to just the Clueboard but will be used by lots of QMK based projects.
https://github.com/skullydazed/qmk_configurator
Please try it out and tell me how this works for you so far.
Post by: StormyMonday on Sat, 30 April 2016, 19:23:41
I've been working on a web UI for configuring the Clueboard. Eventually I'd like it to give you a hex you can flash, but for now it's only a UI demonstration. You can check it out here:
http://configurator.clueboard.co/keyboard/clueboard
The best part is that I've open sourced it. I hope it won't stay limited to just the Clueboard but will be used by lots of QMK based projects.
https://github.com/skullydazed/qmk_configurator
Please try it out and tell me how this works for you so far.
I don't know where you find the time!
This is going to be very handy. Building a keymap isn't all that difficult, but it can be VERY frustrating if you misplace a comma. Do you also plan to add LED configuration, as with the Jig On tool?
Post by: skullydazed on Sat, 30 April 2016, 19:59:54
I've been working on a web UI for configuring the Clueboard. Eventually I'd like it to give you a hex you can flash, but for now it's only a UI demonstration. You can check it out here:
http://configurator.clueboard.co/keyboard/clueboard
The best part is that I've open sourced it. I hope it won't stay limited to just the Clueboard but will be used by lots of QMK based projects.
https://github.com/skullydazed/qmk_configurator
Please try it out and tell me how this works for you so far.
I don't know where you find the time!
This is going to be very handy. Building a keymap isn't all that difficult, but it can be VERY frustrating if you misplace a comma. Do you also plan to add LED configuration, as with the Jig On tool?
(http://i.imgur.com/SR40LZU.jpg)
I do want to add more than just keyboard layout to the tool, but that will come after I get the basic functionality done.
Post by: StormyMonday on Sun, 01 May 2016, 00:13:13
OK, I've got it working for now. You can fetch the latest code to build a working firmware.
However, RGB Underlighting does not work. It's adding 4870 bytes to the final hex, pushing up way over the 32k limit. I'm trying to figure out why that is.
Thanks for the heads up, might be able to try putting it on when I get home from work.
I think someone posted something saying with certain firmware that the LEDs would flash when plugging in the board, but not be controllable. Don't suppose that's the case for this firmware is it?
Wanted to test one LED before proceeding to solder all of them on. Luckily I'm busy tonight and tomorrow, so I'm not too heartbroken or anything.
I think I have some answers here. The combination of options in the Makefile I have published now should result in a firmware of the proper size. If you just want to test you can grab the pre-compiled firmware I published here:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/fue7hcnf9h4n4fz/clueboard2_with_underlight.hex?dl=0
I've been talking to Jack about how to reduce that size for the Clueboard, and have a couple avenues I'm investigating for that so we don't run into this problem again.
F.Y.I.
I blew this *.hex into my clueboard tonight and everything seems to work. The icing on the cake is that all of my RGB LEDS are functioning, too!
The LEDs are stuck on orange, so all I need to do now is to read up on how to control them. I suppose you could say that I've been stuck in the dark ages, 'cause this is the first board that I've ever owned that has more than three LEDs on it (Scroll Lock, Caps Lock and Num Lock).
TL:DR - It looks like you're on the right track, Skully. Thanks for your efforts and keep up the good work!!! :thumb:
Post by: salasource on Mon, 02 May 2016, 05:16:31
No info about MX plate options?I took the MX plate off the site for now, since it's out of stock.Any info when MX plate will come back to stock?
Post by: skullydazed on Mon, 02 May 2016, 09:15:06
No info about MX plate options?I took the MX plate off the site for now, since it's out of stock.Any info when MX plate will come back to stock?
Nothing to report right now. I will be ordering more, but I haven't yet.
Post by: pwade3 on Tue, 03 May 2016, 20:02:46
Here's my current results, mind you LED 2 and 3 were blinking while all others were solid. [attach=1]
Close up of LEDs 1, 2, and 3:
[attach=2]
Close up of LED 11 where the chain stops, I think I fried this spot on the board or something? Not sure, occasionally when I plug in the board this one will blink once very dimly and then nothing.
[attach=3]
Any advice on what I need to do as far as jumping these guys to work correctly? Or has that ship sailed? Or if you need better pics to diagnose, let me know!
Post by: StormyMonday on Tue, 03 May 2016, 22:27:58
Hey skully, no issues getting that hex on the board, but it seems I've got some issues with my LED soldering.
Here's my current results, mind you LED 2 and 3 were blinking while all others were solid. (Attachment Link)
Close up of LEDs 1, 2, and 3:
(Attachment Link)
Close up of LED 11 where the chain stops, I think I fried this spot on the board or something? Not sure, occasionally when I plug in the board this one will blink once very dimly and then nothing.
(Attachment Link)
Any advice on what I need to do as far as jumping these guys to work correctly? Or has that ship sailed? Or if you need better pics to diagnose, let me know!
I tried to post a vid from my phone, but it crashed and burned. Anyhoo, I'm running a v2.0 PCB, with Skully's latest hex and I initially had orange LEDs racing back and forth in a marquee effect. Cycling through the modes Fn+S+Spacebar gave me all of the LEDs cycling through the rainbow together. That seems to be the only effect programmed at present, perhaps due to a memory limitation.
Based on your vid, I'd guess that you have either a bad solder joint, or a faulty LED, since these work like old Christmas lights ... when one goes out, it affects its neighbors. Sorry, but the resolution of my laptop screen isn't good enough for me to spot the trouble area.
Best of luck!
Post by: skullydazed on Tue, 03 May 2016, 23:55:39
Hey skully, no issues getting that hex on the board, but it seems I've got some issues with my LED soldering.
Here's my current results, mind you LED 2 and 3 were blinking while all others were solid. (Attachment Link)
Close up of LEDs 1, 2, and 3:
(Attachment Link)
Close up of LED 11 where the chain stops, I think I fried this spot on the board or something? Not sure, occasionally when I plug in the board this one will blink once very dimly and then nothing.
(Attachment Link)
Any advice on what I need to do as far as jumping these guys to work correctly? Or has that ship sailed? Or if you need better pics to diagnose, let me know!
If the LED's are flashing when you plug in you can ignore the pin at the corner with a line. You can also ignore the pin kitty corner from that.
Of the two remaining pins there is one that is on the same side as the "previous" LED. That one is the DIN (Data In) pin, and is where the control signal comes in at. Kitty corner from that pin is the DOUT (Data Out) pin. The DOUT on the last working LED should connect to the DIN of the first non-working LED, so check both of those first. If you really have lifted the pad in an unrecoverable way those are the two pins to jumper.
Good luck! You're getting closer to having it all working.
Post by: faxe on Wed, 04 May 2016, 07:51:49
Post by: pwade3 on Wed, 04 May 2016, 07:52:41
Hey skully, no issues getting that hex on the board, but it seems I've got some issues with my LED soldering.
Here's my current results, mind you LED 2 and 3 were blinking while all others were solid. (Attachment Link)
Close up of LEDs 1, 2, and 3:
(Attachment Link)
Close up of LED 11 where the chain stops, I think I fried this spot on the board or something? Not sure, occasionally when I plug in the board this one will blink once very dimly and then nothing.
(Attachment Link)
Any advice on what I need to do as far as jumping these guys to work correctly? Or has that ship sailed? Or if you need better pics to diagnose, let me know!
If the LED's are flashing when you plug in you can ignore the pin at the corner with a line. You can also ignore the pin kitty corner from that.
Of the two remaining pins there is one that is on the same side as the "previous" LED. That one is the DIN (Data In) pin, and is where the control signal comes in at. Kitty corner from that pin is the DOUT (Data Out) pin. The DOUT on the last working LED should connect to the DIN of the first non-working LED, so check both of those first. If you really have lifted the pad in an unrecoverable way those are the two pins to jumper.
Good luck! You're getting closer to having it all working.
Thanks so much for the info, hopefully I can try to work on it soon.
Darn work is keeping me from putting together my board for work. :))
Post by: skullydazed on Wed, 04 May 2016, 09:14:48
so, clueboard assembled, collected Massdrop case from the customs office. Tried to assemble it, but how on earth do I fix the plate/pcb assembly to the case? It moves up and down inside..
It's moving even after you screw it together? That's the part I find the trickiest with those cases, getting everything lined up just so. Try moving the plate around inside the case while lightly pressing the top of the case down. It should find a position that sorta sucks it all into place.
Post by: merlin64 on Fri, 06 May 2016, 09:17:54
Post by: pwade3 on Fri, 06 May 2016, 10:17:47
pwade3, take a look at what I did to get around this. It's ugly, and it shows through my clear acrylic case, but it works on the solid colors just fine.
Did you get the correct jump figured out so that the one LED isn't messed up? I didn't see a post about it.
Post by: merlin64 on Fri, 06 May 2016, 10:21:05
Post by: maximm on Wed, 11 May 2016, 15:04:55
(http://i2.wp.com/winkeyless.kr/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/DSC_0694_face_diffuser_3.jpg?resize=300%2C201)
Does the "Smog" one have this effect?
Otherwise im thinking
Assembly: Do it myself!
Screw Color: Silver
Top Plate: Transparent Dark Blue
Switch Plate: Clear Acrylic
Reinforcing Plate: Clear
Middle Plate: Clear
Bottom Plate: Transparent Dark Blue Acrylic
Post by: pwade3 on Wed, 11 May 2016, 17:37:50
Any advice on what to do from here? This is single color mode.
Post by: skullydazed on Wed, 11 May 2016, 17:51:23
Are any of the acrylic layers RGB Diffusors? Like thisShow Image(http://i2.wp.com/winkeyless.kr/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/DSC_0694_face_diffuser_3.jpg?resize=300%2C201)
Does the "Smog" one have this effect?
Otherwise im thinking
Assembly: Do it myself!
Screw Color: Silver
Top Plate: Transparent Dark Blue
Switch Plate: Clear Acrylic
Reinforcing Plate: Clear
Middle Plate: Clear
Bottom Plate: Transparent Dark Blue Acrylic
White diffuses pretty well, but to get that kind of effect you want clear and then you'll sand it yourself to frost the acrylic. The smoke acrylic won't diffuse as well as sanded acrylic will.
Finally had the time to look at my board, touched up a few of the LEDs and we have light!
Any advice on what to do from here? This is single color mode.
I'm not sure why that's happening. It's possible that you heated them up too high or too long. What temperature is your iron at?
I'm pretty confident they're otherwise soldered correctly, as the rest of the string are lighting up properly.
Post by: pwade3 on Wed, 11 May 2016, 17:55:59
I'm not sure why that's happening. It's possible that you heated them up too high or too long. What temperature is your iron at?
I'm pretty confident they're otherwise soldered correctly, as the rest of the string are lighting up properly.
~300 C
Post by: romevi on Thu, 12 May 2016, 23:58:19
Below I have two different ideas, one with a 6u space bar and the other (2nd) with a 6.75u space bar. Are any of these renders possible, even?
6u space bar
[attachimg=1]
6.75u space bar
[attachimg=2]
Any one else got any other ideas? The only caps I'd have to prioritize at the bottom would be the Caps Lock at the far left from the M0116 board (would the lock switch be a possibility to use, too?). Any other layouts I can consider. Thanks!
Post by: Dernubenfrieken on Fri, 13 May 2016, 06:09:52
So I'm trying to come up with different layouts for what I'd finalize for my Clueboard. At the moment, I have AEK II and M0116 caps I'd like to utilize. After fiddling with Keyboard Layout Editor, I realize the AEK II space bar wouldn't work with any of the layouts I had in mind, so I guess I'd have to order space bars from PMK to fully optimize what I'd prefer
Below I have two different ideas, one with a 6u space bar and the other (2nd) with a 6.75u space bar. Are any of these renders possible, even?
6u space bar
(Attachment Link)
6.75u space bar
(Attachment Link)
Any one else got any other ideas? The only caps I'd have to prioritize at the bottom would be the Caps Lock at the far left from the M0116 board (would the lock switch be a possibility to use, too?). Any other layouts I can consider. Thanks!
I beleive the bottom left key has to be 1.25. Might have to put Option there and use the bottom layout.
Post by: romevi on Fri, 13 May 2016, 13:47:30
So I'm trying to come up with different layouts for what I'd finalize for my Clueboard. At the moment, I have AEK II and M0116 caps I'd like to utilize. After fiddling with Keyboard Layout Editor, I realize the AEK II space bar wouldn't work with any of the layouts I had in mind, so I guess I'd have to order space bars from PMK to fully optimize what I'd prefer
Below I have two different ideas, one with a 6u space bar and the other (2nd) with a 6.75u space bar. Are any of these renders possible, even?
6u space bar
(Attachment Link)
6.75u space bar
(Attachment Link)
Any one else got any other ideas? The only caps I'd have to prioritize at the bottom would be the Caps Lock at the far left from the M0116 board (would the lock switch be a possibility to use, too?). Any other layouts I can consider. Thanks!
I beleive the bottom left key has to be 1.25. Might have to put Option there and use the bottom layout.
So the only keys on the far bottom left have to be 1.25u or 1.5u?
Post by: zombimuncha on Thu, 19 May 2016, 06:16:35
Post by: skullydazed on Thu, 19 May 2016, 16:42:55
Can toggle Fn on/off (like capslock), like with a long press or something???
Yes, you can have a simple toggle or you can program a key so that if you press and release it is one key (like switch layer) but if you hold it down it's another key (like momentary toggle layer.)
Post by: zombimuncha on Fri, 20 May 2016, 04:39:31
Can toggle Fn on/off (like capslock), like with a long press or something???
Yes, you can have a simple toggle or you can program a key so that if you press and release it is one key (like switch layer) but if you hold it down it's another key (like momentary toggle layer.)
OK, so could it be set up so that it's otherwise exactly the same as my stock 660m, but if I hit Fn-Capslock the Fn-layer is toggled on, so I could then hit sequences of F-keys without holding any other key down, then toggle the Fn-layer back off by tapping Fn again?
Post by: need on Fri, 20 May 2016, 05:25:05
Do the Acrylic case metal plate also fit the regular FC660m/Varmillo caseYes
Post by: skullydazed on Fri, 20 May 2016, 16:26:33
Can toggle Fn on/off (like capslock), like with a long press or something???
Yes, you can have a simple toggle or you can program a key so that if you press and release it is one key (like switch layer) but if you hold it down it's another key (like momentary toggle layer.)
OK, so could it be set up so that it's otherwise exactly the same as my stock 660m, but if I hit Fn-Capslock the Fn-layer is toggled on, so I could then hit sequences of F-keys without holding any other key down, then toggle the Fn-layer back off by tapping Fn again?
That specific behavior is rather complicated, but you could do it if you know a little bit of C. You'd need to write custom behavior for the Fn key but it could be accomplished.
If you are ok with Fn-Capslock toggling both on and off it's much simpler.
Post by: zombimuncha on Sat, 21 May 2016, 01:39:27
Can toggle Fn on/off (like capslock), like with a long press or something???
Yes, you can have a simple toggle or you can program a key so that if you press and release it is one key (like switch layer) but if you hold it down it's another key (like momentary toggle layer.)
OK, so could it be set up so that it's otherwise exactly the same as my stock 660m, but if I hit Fn-Capslock the Fn-layer is toggled on, so I could then hit sequences of F-keys without holding any other key down, then toggle the Fn-layer back off by tapping Fn again?
That specific behavior is rather complicated, but you could do it if you know a little bit of C. You'd need to write custom behavior for the Fn key but it could be accomplished.
If you are ok with Fn-Capslock toggling both on and off it's much simpler.
Great answer. Really tells me everything I wanted to know and reassures me that you fully understood the question. Thanks!
Post by: Dernubenfrieken on Fri, 27 May 2016, 08:09:12
Aluminum Case back up on Massdrop.
Post by: romevi on Fri, 27 May 2016, 19:55:57
Post by: cheddarbek on Tue, 31 May 2016, 09:28:58
Got my Clueboard built over the weekend. I ran into some trouble with the left shift key. Putting the switch in LShift, it wasn't recognized by the board. After putting a jumper in ISOLShift it worked perfectly - why, I'm sure I do not know.
(http://i.imgur.com/vI9Btjr.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/hF8Fcc0.jpg)
I've got it assembled with the aluminum Leopold case from Massdrop, with 65g Zealios and Originative Co keycaps. I'm chuffed with this!
(http://i.imgur.com/zVQMdpH.jpg)
Post by: faxe on Tue, 31 May 2016, 09:32:36
Post by: cheddarbek on Tue, 31 May 2016, 09:35:50
Did you have any problems with the pcb/plate combo sitting loosely in the massdrop case?
I did, yeah. I had a good millimeter or two of play, especially on the left hand side. When I would put the case together everything would seem fine, but any movement of the board and suddenly the pcb/plate would come loose. I resolved it by putting little foam feet on top of the plate at each corner. Now it's in there solid and perfect.
(http://i.imgur.com/iCcTSSU.jpg)
Post by: StormyMonday on Tue, 31 May 2016, 11:45:41
I've got it assembled with the aluminum Leopold case from Massdrop, with 65g Zealios and Originative Co keycaps. I'm chuffed with this!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/zVQMdpH.jpg)
Looks great!
Congrats!!!
Post by: merlin64 on Tue, 07 June 2016, 13:09:21
Is there anyway I can just buy parts of the acryllic case such as the bottom metal plate?
Post by: skullydazed on Tue, 07 June 2016, 17:17:32
Looks like my soldering didn't hold up. I left my keyboard plugged in over the weekend, when I got to it, I noticed my solid colored light was exhibiting different colors. I unplugged/replugged the USB cable and I haven't been able to get the LEDs to turn on again. All keys still work fine.
Is there anyway I can just buy parts of the acryllic case such as the bottom metal plate?
Not yet, but soon. I'm working this week on a new storefront where you'll be able to buy individual parts as well as kits.
Post by: romevi on Fri, 10 June 2016, 10:38:10
[attachimg=1]
I'm almost certain that this layout will be fully supported by the PCB, but if anyone can correct me let me know. Ideally I'd like to change the space bar to 6.25u or one of the right mods to 1u to accommodate a 0.25u gap between the right mods and arrows, but don't think that's possible.
Now, the only issue would be finding a keyset with a bottom row that accommodates this, well as the right Shift, which I didn't realize until recently is the same size as the left Shift.
Man, this is tricker than I thought for Alps!
Post by: JaccoW on Sat, 11 June 2016, 00:39:02
As to keycaps;
(http://i.imgur.com/kWNKYr2h.jpg) (http://imgur.com/kWNKYr2)
Here is a teaser of what I plan on doing with the board. It's not soldered yet just sort of assembled with the switches popped in.
First thoughts:
- I need new smaller screws.
- This will be one of my most colorful boards yet. :P
- Unless I can find an Alps spacebar I might just pop in a cherry switch for that key
- It's a good thing Alps DCS Infinity (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=70817.0) came with an extra set of mods with different legends for that second shift.
- Quiet Clicks are really quiet. Even compared to MX Clears :eek:
- I need more Cherry stabs
- My colleagues are going to think this thing is freaky. :))
Post by: zombimuncha on Tue, 14 June 2016, 01:41:31
Post by: skullydazed on Wed, 15 June 2016, 14:57:53
Do you have any plans to add backlighting support to the PCB? I'm thinking it'd be nice to be able to indicate the different fn-layers by different patterns of LEDs, like lighting only the top row to show that they are F-keys instead of numbers, or lighting only the embedded numpad below 890.
It's on my roadmap but I don't have a timeframe in mind yet.
Post by: merlin64 on Thu, 16 June 2016, 00:14:51
For future revisions of the case, can we have a cutout for the button or something?
Post by: MOZ on Thu, 16 June 2016, 00:50:57
Post by: skullydazed on Thu, 16 June 2016, 02:29:08
Anyone have a solution to not having to disassemble my acrylic case every time I need to hit the reset button?
For future revisions of the case, can we have a cutout for the button or something?
The official firmware is QMK (https://github.com/jackhumbert/qmk_firmware) now, and that has a RESET button you can assign somewhere. By default you press Fn+S+R.
Post by: kokokoy on Thu, 23 June 2016, 06:38:02
Got my Clueboard built over the weekend. I ran into some trouble with the left shift key. Putting the switch in LShift, it wasn't recognized by the board. After putting a jumper in ISOLShift it worked perfectly - why, I'm sure I do not know.
Thanks for sharing this out. Just tested my PCB today and it behaves the same as yours.
Post by: Wannabe on Thu, 23 June 2016, 12:51:45
Got my Clueboard built over the weekend. I ran into some trouble with the left shift key. Putting the switch in LShift, it wasn't recognized by the board. After putting a jumper in ISOLShift it worked perfectly - why, I'm sure I do not know.
Thanks for sharing this out. Just tested my PCB today and it behaves the same as yours.
Did you guys not have a packet in your package labeled Clueboard 2.0 Errata? My PCB came with a stapled together pack of papers that stated the pcb had this problem and how to fix it (the fix being what you guys already figured out...putting a jumper in ISOLShift).
Post by: skullydazed on Thu, 23 June 2016, 13:23:04
Got my Clueboard built over the weekend. I ran into some trouble with the left shift key. Putting the switch in LShift, it wasn't recognized by the board. After putting a jumper in ISOLShift it worked perfectly - why, I'm sure I do not know.
Thanks for sharing this out. Just tested my PCB today and it behaves the same as yours.
Did you guys not have a packet in your package labeled Clueboard 2.0 Errata? My PCB came with a stapled together pack of papers that stated the pcb had this problem and how to fix it (the fix being what you guys already figured out...putting a jumper in ISOLShift).
I may have forgotten it on a couple. :'( I also have a page about it on my in progress support site: https://clueboard.freshdesk.com/solution/articles/16000002183-my-left-shift-doesn-t-work
The next batch of PCB's will not require that, but I still have a good bit of stock left.
Post by: cheddarbek on Thu, 23 June 2016, 14:10:43
Got my Clueboard built over the weekend. I ran into some trouble with the left shift key. Putting the switch in LShift, it wasn't recognized by the board. After putting a jumper in ISOLShift it worked perfectly - why, I'm sure I do not know.
Thanks for sharing this out. Just tested my PCB today and it behaves the same as yours.
Did you guys not have a packet in your package labeled Clueboard 2.0 Errata? My PCB came with a stapled together pack of papers that stated the pcb had this problem and how to fix it (the fix being what you guys already figured out...putting a jumper in ISOLShift).
That sounds like instructions. We don't need instructions, half the fun is ruined when everything just works properly.
Post by: liftylol on Tue, 28 June 2016, 13:32:28
Post by: skullydazed on Tue, 28 June 2016, 21:10:54
hey everyone, i was just wondering if all the supported layouts on the pcb are supported by the top plate for alps? and if not, which layouts are supported? standard/iso/iso/standard, would that work?
For alps only ANSI with a standard top row is supported. If you're OK with an acrylic plate I can cut a custom plate to support any layout.
Post by: liftylol on Wed, 29 June 2016, 10:42:22
Post by: yinzer on Sun, 17 July 2016, 15:37:47
I've been working on a web UI for configuring the Clueboard. Eventually I'd like it to give you a hex you can flash, but for now it's only a UI demonstration. You can check it out here:
http://configurator.clueboard.co/keyboard/clueboard
The best part is that I've open sourced it. I hope it won't stay limited to just the Clueboard but will be used by lots of QMK based projects.
https://github.com/skullydazed/qmk_configurator
Please try it out and tell me how this works for you so far.
OK, I've got it working for now. You can fetch the latest code to build a working firmware.
However, RGB Underlighting does not work. It's adding 4870 bytes to the final hex, pushing up way over the 32k limit. I'm trying to figure out why that is.
Thanks for the heads up, might be able to try putting it on when I get home from work.
I think someone posted something saying with certain firmware that the LEDs would flash when plugging in the board, but not be controllable. Don't suppose that's the case for this firmware is it?
Wanted to test one LED before proceeding to solder all of them on. Luckily I'm busy tonight and tomorrow, so I'm not too heartbroken or anything.
I think I have some answers here. The combination of options in the Makefile I have published now should result in a firmware of the proper size. If you just want to test you can grab the pre-compiled firmware I published here:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/fue7hcnf9h4n4fz/clueboard2_with_underlight.hex?dl=0
I've been talking to Jack about how to reduce that size for the Clueboard, and have a couple avenues I'm investigating for that so we don't run into this problem again.
OK, I've got it working for now. You can fetch the latest code to build a working firmware.
However, RGB Underlighting does not work. It's adding 4870 bytes to the final hex, pushing up way over the 32k limit. I'm trying to figure out why that is.
Thanks for the heads up, might be able to try putting it on when I get home from work.
I think someone posted something saying with certain firmware that the LEDs would flash when plugging in the board, but not be controllable. Don't suppose that's the case for this firmware is it?
Wanted to test one LED before proceeding to solder all of them on. Luckily I'm busy tonight and tomorrow, so I'm not too heartbroken or anything.
I think I have some answers here. The combination of options in the Makefile I have published now should result in a firmware of the proper size. If you just want to test you can grab the pre-compiled firmware I published here:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/fue7hcnf9h4n4fz/clueboard2_with_underlight.hex?dl=0
I've been talking to Jack about how to reduce that size for the Clueboard, and have a couple avenues I'm investigating for that so we don't run into this problem again.
Any updates on this front? I'd like to customize the keymap while maintaining the underlight. It's also possible that I missed an update and it's good to go from GH.
Post by: romevi on Sun, 17 July 2016, 21:29:36
hey everyone, i was just wondering if all the supported layouts on the pcb are supported by the top plate for alps? and if not, which layouts are supported? standard/iso/iso/standard, would that work?
For alps only ANSI with a standard top row is supported. If you're OK with an acrylic plate I can cut a custom plate to support any layout.
Speaking of acrylic plates, are they completely translucent or do they come frosted as well? I was wondering how orange Alps would feel like with acrylic plates; I've already decided on a layout I'd like, but wondering if I should go with an acrylic plate to give it less resistance.
Post by: skullydazed on Mon, 19 September 2016, 03:59:59
hey everyone, i was just wondering if all the supported layouts on the pcb are supported by the top plate for alps? and if not, which layouts are supported? standard/iso/iso/standard, would that work?
For alps only ANSI with a standard top row is supported. If you're OK with an acrylic plate I can cut a custom plate to support any layout.
Speaking of acrylic plates, are they completely translucent or do they come frosted as well? I was wondering how orange Alps would feel like with acrylic plates; I've already decided on a layout I'd like, but wondering if I should go with an acrylic plate to give it less resistance.
The acrylic I have for switch plates is either opaque or transparent, nothing transcluent. (Although even the opaque white lets some light through.)
Post by: skullydazed on Mon, 19 September 2016, 04:01:18
Post by: Phenix on Mon, 19 September 2016, 09:23:43
Whats the progress on the cluepad?
Post by: kokokoy on Fri, 30 September 2016, 06:41:16
My soldering was a mess since this was my first, but it worked for months so don't know whats going on. Anyway here\s an image after flashing. Is there anything off here?
[attachimg=1]
Post by: Fictiouz on Fri, 30 September 2016, 06:49:37
Need help guys / skully. Had the board for ~3 months w/o issues but few weeks ago it started to act up. First noticed that suddenly the left win key and left alt key started to be on the other way around. Never messed around the firmware since I flash it. Ignored this then a week after its now completely a mess. Only 2 keys are registering correctly left shift and left arrow, can still flash and change the assignment for this two. But the rest of the keys its either not registering any, wrong keys being thrown or multiple key presses.
My soldering was a mess since this was my first, but it worked for months so don't know whats going on. Anyway here\s an image after flashing. Is there anything off here?
(Attachment Link)
Did you clean the residual flux from your joints? If you did not corrosion can occur on the PCB/Pads which can damage the connections in the long term. May not be right problem, but it was my first thought given the circumstances.
Post by: kokokoy on Fri, 30 September 2016, 07:13:46
Need help guys / skully. Had the board for ~3 months w/o issues but few weeks ago it started to act up. First noticed that suddenly the left win key and left alt key started to be on the other way around. Never messed around the firmware since I flash it. Ignored this then a week after its now completely a mess. Only 2 keys are registering correctly left shift and left arrow, can still flash and change the assignment for this two. But the rest of the keys its either not registering any, wrong keys being thrown or multiple key presses.
My soldering was a mess since this was my first, but it worked for months so don't know whats going on. Anyway here\s an image after flashing. Is there anything off here?
(Attachment Link)
Did you clean the residual flux from your joints? If you did not corrosion can occur on the PCB/Pads which can damage the connections in the long term. May not be right problem, but it was my first thought given the circumstances.
Thanks man. Was wondering what those are, saw it before and cleaned it a bit. Thought it was just me burning the pcb. Now noticed they're back (with a vengeance) and started reading around. Never knew it can damage it though. Damn.
Let me see cleaning it thoroughly will help now else it was a costly experience.
Post by: Zanduby on Fri, 30 September 2016, 21:55:53
Post by: kokokoy on Fri, 30 September 2016, 23:39:41
i am completely lost at how to flash/program this keyboard. anyone have a more step by step guide? i have a .c file with my layout ready to go.
Here's the link https://github.com/jackhumbert/qmk_firmware:
1. I just followed the installation guide "Windows (Vista and later)" section (if I recall it correctly)
2. Then download skully's flasher here https://github.com/jackhumbert/qmk_firmware_flasher/releases/
3. Edit the keymap.c on the extracted qmk_firmware-master\keyboards\clueboard2\keymaps\default folder (downloaded from step 1)
4. Launch MHV shell and navigate to the clueboard2 folder of qmk_firmaware-master\keyboards\clueboard2
5. Just execute/type "Make" on MHV. I think you can pass parameters here to specifically choose what you are compiling or building but haven't tried it.
6. Once the build finish the .hex file would be deployed on the same default of your keymap.c.
7. Launch the flasher and upload your .hex on the board
Post by: Zanduby on Fri, 30 September 2016, 23:41:09
i am completely lost at how to flash/program this keyboard. anyone have a more step by step guide? i have a .c file with my layout ready to go.
Here's the link https://github.com/jackhumbert/qmk_firmware:
1. I just followed the installation guide "Windows (Vista and later)" section (if I recall it correctly)
2. Then download skully's flasher here https://github.com/jackhumbert/qmk_firmware_flasher/releases/
3. Edit the keymap.c on the extracted qmk_firmware-master\keyboards\clueboard2\keymaps\default folder (downloaded from step 1)
4. Launch MHV shell and navigate to the clueboard2 folder of qmk_firmaware-master\keyboards\clueboard2
5. Just execute/type "Make" on MHV. I think you can pass parameters here to specifically choose what you are compiling or building but haven't tried it.
6. Once the build finish the .hex file would be deployed on the same default of your keymap.c.
7. Launch the flasher and upload your .hex on the board
Thanks for the reply. I worked with Skully for about an hour tonight getting it all fixed.
Post by: merlin64 on Wed, 16 November 2016, 08:06:15
Quick question is the PCB offered still the version 2 of the PCB in which one would have to do additional soldering of a wire to get the left shift to work (can't remember the details..but it's something like that).
Post by: skullydazed on Wed, 16 November 2016, 11:27:44
Looks like Clueboard is on Massdrop. Congratulations Skully!
Quick question is the PCB offered still the version 2 of the PCB in which one would have to do additional soldering of a wire to get the left shift to work (can't remember the details..but it's something like that).
All of the PCB's affected by that problem have been sold. All future PCB's going forward (including those shipping from my shop today) do not need that fix.
Post by: JaccoW on Thu, 05 January 2017, 18:39:05
They seem to be too long. Whenever I press down the key the stabilizer wants to keep going another mm or 2 making the key very hard to press and even flexing the switch sideways.
That can't be right.
Am I doing something wrong here or do I need to do some modding on the wires?
Post by: skullydazed on Thu, 05 January 2017, 22:46:55
I just soldered my Alps Clueboard today but I have some issues with the Matias stabilizers.
They seem to be too long. Whenever I press down the key the stabilizer wants to keep going another mm or 2 making the key very hard to press and even flexing the switch sideways.
That can't be right.
Am I doing something wrong here or do I need to do some modding on the wires?
Which direction is the insert facing? Can you take a picture of it, and maybe one that shows it flexing?
Post by: JaccoW on Fri, 06 January 2017, 01:18:52
I will give it a shot after the weekend. For now I sort of fixed it by bending the wires inwards.I just soldered my Alps Clueboard today but I have some issues with the Matias stabilizers.
They seem to be too long. Whenever I press down the key the stabilizer wants to keep going another mm or 2 making the key very hard to press and even flexing the switch sideways.
That can't be right.
Am I doing something wrong here or do I need to do some modding on the wires?
Which direction is the insert facing? Can you take a picture of it, and maybe one that shows it flexing?