Can everyone share your results with the various 1.5mm materials on Ponoko.com?

[LifeIsOnTheWire]

It seems like some people on here have used Ponoko.com to have their plates cut.  I've seen a few people using their Acrylic, and a few using plywood, etc

I've done some searching on GH, and I've read a bunch of discussions, but it's hard to decypher what was based on real results, and what was just brainstorming.

I don't think its worth discussing metals, as there is no question as to how well metals work.  I'm mostly interested in results with 1.5mm materials (to keep the click-in benefit of the MX switches), because it's pretty obvious that you can use any thickness of most materials if you are willing to glue/friction-mount.

Acrylic - most people say 1.5mm is too fragile, some people suggest a 2nd lower plate with larger holes to support the upper 1.5mm plate, has anyone really done this?  perhaps by gluing them together?  or perhaps no support-plate, and just used lots of standoffs/legs to support it?

Delrin - is 1.5mm too flexible?  do you need lots of standoffs/legs to keep it from sagging over time?

Silicone - same concerns as delrin?

Plywood - is 1.5mm too fragile?  perhaps the same solutions as 1.5mm acrylic (support-plate, or lots of legs)?

[0100010]

Probably the only material strong enough for a bare plate at 1.5mm would be stainless steel.  Aluminum would be OK if going in a case.

[davkol]

I've seen an Atreus made of 1.5mm plywood plates.

[0100010]

I think Atreus works because the bottom of the MX center mounting pin is sitting on the bottom plate.

[heedpantsnow]

I have a plate made from their 1.5mm Delrin.  It's a bit thicker than 1.5, so my switches don't clip in mostly.

It's more flexible than acrylic.  Wouldn't use it as a standalone case but works fine for a plate. 

[Fictiouz]

I think Atreus works because the bottom of the MX center mounting pin is sitting on the bottom plate.

Most Atreus use a PCB along with the wooden plate which gives that extra rigidity. I had enough clearance to route the excess cable of my micro-b extension between the bottom plate and PCB.

[Spopepro]

1.5mm thick metal of just about any variety will provide enough structure for a keyboard. Any non metallic material will need significant additional support.

1.5mm acrylic is pretty damn fragile. I didn't put the calipers on it, but I think the keyboard I have with a "1.5mm" acrylic plate is actually closer to 2mm. And then there's a 3mm layer below it. No need to glue because of the PCB; there's 5mm of space between the bottom of an MX switch and the lip that sits on the plate. If you are hand wiring, that's a different story. Acrylic is a pain to "glue", especially two sheets together.

[TD22057]

Here's my build using a 1.5mm acrylic plate from ponoko: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=82528.msg2186141

Works fine.  I used a technique that I found on another post here - use 2 3mm spacers and the switches will rest on the bottom plate so it's supported all around quite nicely.  I didn't glue them in so they're not that solid in the plate (they can be pulled out with your fingers) but that didn't cause any problems in using them.  So I think doing a 1.5mm plate + 3mm spacer + 3mm spacer + base works just fine.  It's reasonably cheap, easy to have made, and looks very good (I added a more expensive wood top cover for style but that's not strictly necessary).