Confirmed BlueNalgene is the homie and reliable. Makes me ill artwork for my zine. 10/10 Would trust. Plus alps <3
What are people using for cases?
Nice GB.
What about AT101 with 1u Winkey cutouts?
I don't see how 60% cases can support Winkey blockers, so that might be a better idea IMO :P
I'm definitely in for 1 or 2 plates.
Would really love to see a stealth-pure-black powder coating. Maybe I'm not alone in this.
What are people using for cases?
Assuming the PCB isn't changing its mounting holes and the plate isn't oversized, you can see a list of compatible cases from Hasu's original GB thread here (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=69740.0). It's about halfway down in the OP.
Nice GB.
What about AT101 with 1u Winkey cutouts?
I don't see how 60% cases can support Winkey blockers, so that might be a better idea IMO :P
I'm definitely in for 1 or 2 plates.
Would really love to see a stealth-pure-black powder coating. Maybe I'm not alone in this.
Nice, I'll be putting in my order later today. When is the deadline for this GB?
Any tips regarding cases btw?
Joined! thanks Blue :cool:
What are people using for cases?
I assume appropriate vetting will be done to make sure powder coating thickness won't be an issue?
I hope it's ok that I'm linking the SP Alps keyset IC here, Blue.
I just want to make sure people are aware that the new Alps keyset will cover the following layouts "Dell AT101(W), AEKII, and Infinity Hacker".
People might want to keep that in mind when selecting their plate.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=74783.msg1845812#msg1845812 (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=74783.msg1845812#msg1845812)
Thanks for undertaking this.
Naive question: Will the PCB and plates have the necessary holes for installing the keyboard into a standard aluminum case such as the TEK CNC 60% case?
And ordered. Looking forward to seeing what the powder coating color is.
I already have a 60% alps in AEKII layout from hasu's round 2.
Ordered 2 pcbs, a Dell 101W, and an Infinity for this buy. Should go well with the caps from njbair's Alpine Winter, and the Dolch Tai Hao set from Massdrop.
A thought did occur to me...what can I do about stabs? I'm planning on harvesting a set from an old AEKI I've got, but I'll need some for the 2nd build. Is there anywhere a guy can get stabs without harvesting these days?
Stab holes are designed for cannibalized parts. However a Matias stab GB was suggested by a member on DT, so there is interest. That would make a good add-on GB if anyone feels froggy. I'm hesitant to add it on this GB because I've never seen the Matias set used, so I don't know what it contains or how compatible it would be.
Nice GB.CommonCurt brought this up to me as well. Something tells me I didn't understand what you guys wanted. Pic of the layout, and I will fix it.
What about AT101 with 1u Winkey cutouts?
I don't see how 60% cases can support Winkey blockers, so that might be a better idea IMO :P
Nice GB.CommonCurt brought this up to me as well. Something tells me I didn't understand what you guys wanted. Pic of the layout, and I will fix it.
What about AT101 with 1u Winkey cutouts?
I don't see how 60% cases can support Winkey blockers, so that might be a better idea IMO :P
Thank you :) Like this.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/HzzV3Ta.jpg)
Ok, I made it.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/eFU9yvV.png)
I need to see if the change will be acceptable for the two people who have ordered the wkl already. Otherwise, I will just make a new plate option on the form.
Just a word on stabs: the plates in this GB use Alps stabilizer inserts. I'm not sure what kind of inserts the Tai Hao keysets from Massdrop use, but I know SP uses cherry costar-style keycap stab inserts. So the Matias stab wires will not fit SP caps. You will have to bend custom wires to use with SP Alps caps.
I remember that mockup be posted in a thread a while back. I didn't realize you were planning on adding both positions to these plates.Just a word on stabs: the plates in this GB use Alps stabilizer inserts. I'm not sure what kind of inserts the Tai Hao keysets from Massdrop use, but I know SP uses cherry costar-style keycap stab inserts. So the Matias stab wires will not fit SP caps. You will have to bend custom wires to use with SP Alps caps.
The Alps stabs that Matias sells should work with the Costar-style inserts. I just need to modify the plate drawings to include both "positions" for the stab clips. I'm only waiting on Edgar to get back to me with the dimensions for those (he's in China right now).
nickheller is going to kill me. I convinced him to buy all these wire bending tools this afternoon, thinking we'd all have to rig this stuff together to work with SP caps.
The really ironic part is, I almost bought all the same tools myself. They're sitting in my Amazon cart right now. The only reason I didn't buy them yet is because I had some add-on items in there too, and I needed $25 with of goods sold by Amazon, but I only had $24.47.nickheller is going to kill me. I convinced him to buy all these wire bending tools this afternoon, thinking we'd all have to rig this stuff together to work with SP caps.
Maybe nickheller can sell us all some 7u Costar stab wires :D
Nice GB.CommonCurt brought this up to me as well. Something tells me I didn't understand what you guys wanted. Pic of the layout, and I will fix it.
What about AT101 with 1u Winkey cutouts?
I don't see how 60% cases can support Winkey blockers, so that might be a better idea IMO :P
Thank you :) Like this.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/HzzV3Ta.jpg)
Ok, I made it.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/eFU9yvV.png)
I need to see if the change will be acceptable for the two people who have ordered the wkl already. Otherwise, I will just make a new plate option on the form.
Hrm, perfect timing?I think they watch the forums like hawks. Hate to say it, but I may have to pick up a blue case myself.
https://www.massdrop.com/buy/60-keyboard-case?mode=guest_open (https://www.massdrop.com/buy/60-keyboard-case?mode=guest_open)
Oh, and blue to match the Alpine set?? whuut
Also:
https://www.massdrop.com/buy/tex-acrylic-cnc-keyboard-case?mode=guest_open (https://www.massdrop.com/buy/tex-acrylic-cnc-keyboard-case?mode=guest_open)
Is that Infinity Layout the Standard or Hacker layout? I have to ask.... seeing that I have an extra Infinity PCB and needed a flat plate (one I have is bent plate).
Make my day PLEASE!!!!
Hrm, perfect timing?
https://www.massdrop.com/buy/60-keyboard-case?mode=guest_open (https://www.massdrop.com/buy/60-keyboard-case?mode=guest_open)
Oh, and blue to match the Alpine set?? whuut
Also:
https://www.massdrop.com/buy/tex-acrylic-cnc-keyboard-case?mode=guest_open (https://www.massdrop.com/buy/tex-acrylic-cnc-keyboard-case?mode=guest_open)
Update
The plate and PCB have both passed the MOQ on the first day. WOOHOO!
It feels like we are in for something special with this Alps love. I don't really know a lot about what I will need, but most of my questions have been answered already.
I just picked up an AEKII with pink Alps for what I think was a reasonable price. What would you guys do? It seems really brutal to tear this thing apart to harvest for switches.
Hrm, perfect timing?
https://www.massdrop.com/buy/60-keyboard-case?mode=guest_open (https://www.massdrop.com/buy/60-keyboard-case?mode=guest_open)
Oh, and blue to match the Alpine set?? whuut
Also:
https://www.massdrop.com/buy/tex-acrylic-cnc-keyboard-case?mode=guest_open (https://www.massdrop.com/buy/tex-acrylic-cnc-keyboard-case?mode=guest_open)
3 hours left on the first drop I linked, I just joined myself - https://www.massdrop.com/buy/60-keyboard-case?mode=guest_open (https://www.massdrop.com/buy/60-keyboard-case?mode=guest_open)
It feels like we are in for something special with this Alps love. I don't really know a lot about what I will need, but most of my questions have been answered already.
I just picked up an AEKII with pink Alps for what I think was a reasonable price. What would you guys do? It seems really brutal to tear this thing apart to harvest for switches.
It feels like we are in for something special with this Alps love. I don't really know a lot about what I will need, but most of my questions have been answered already.
I just picked up an AEKII with pink Alps for what I think was a reasonable price. What would you guys do? It seems really brutal to tear this thing apart to harvest for switches.
Hrm, perfect timing?
https://www.massdrop.com/buy/60-keyboard-case?mode=guest_open (https://www.massdrop.com/buy/60-keyboard-case?mode=guest_open)
Oh, and blue to match the Alpine set?? whuut
Also:
https://www.massdrop.com/buy/tex-acrylic-cnc-keyboard-case?mode=guest_open (https://www.massdrop.com/buy/tex-acrylic-cnc-keyboard-case?mode=guest_open)
3 hours left on the first drop I linked, I just joined myself - https://www.massdrop.com/buy/60-keyboard-case?mode=guest_open (https://www.massdrop.com/buy/60-keyboard-case?mode=guest_open)
I can not decide between this one and the acrylic one.
Nice GB.CommonCurt brought this up to me as well. Something tells me I didn't understand what you guys wanted. Pic of the layout, and I will fix it.
What about AT101 with 1u Winkey cutouts?
I don't see how 60% cases can support Winkey blockers, so that might be a better idea IMO :P
Thank you :) Like this.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/HzzV3Ta.jpg)
Ok, I made it.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/eFU9yvV.png)
I need to see if the change will be acceptable for the two people who have ordered the wkl already. Otherwise, I will just make a new plate option on the form.
Nice GB.CommonCurt brought this up to me as well. Something tells me I didn't understand what you guys wanted. Pic of the layout, and I will fix it.
What about AT101 with 1u Winkey cutouts?
I don't see how 60% cases can support Winkey blockers, so that might be a better idea IMO :P
Thank you :) Like this.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/HzzV3Ta.jpg)
Ok, I made it.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/eFU9yvV.png)
I need to see if the change will be acceptable for the two people who have ordered the wkl already. Otherwise, I will just make a new plate option on the form.
Have you heard back from the two people to see if you will be making a new plate option for this?
When I order should I go ahead and select AT101, or are you going to name it something like "AT101 with 1u"?
Nice GB.CommonCurt brought this up to me as well. Something tells me I didn't understand what you guys wanted. Pic of the layout, and I will fix it.
What about AT101 with 1u Winkey cutouts?
I don't see how 60% cases can support Winkey blockers, so that might be a better idea IMO :P
Thank you :) Like this.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/HzzV3Ta.jpg)
Ok, I made it.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/eFU9yvV.png)
I need to see if the change will be acceptable for the two people who have ordered the wkl already. Otherwise, I will just make a new plate option on the form.
Have you heard back from the two people to see if you will be making a new plate option for this?
When I order should I go ahead and select AT101, or are you going to name it something like "AT101 with 1u"?
I am still waiting on one person to respond, and he/she is on the other side of the planet. So I will hopefully know the situation tomorrow morning. I will post an update to the OP when I make any changes, and I will make a post so that it comes up in the Spy and Watched Topics part of the site.
It feels like we are in for something special with this Alps love. I don't really know a lot about what I will need, but most of my questions have been answered already.
I just picked up an AEKII with pink Alps for what I think was a reasonable price. What would you guys do? It seems really brutal to tear this thing apart to harvest for switches.
De-solder those switches and never look back! :)
The AEKII is a fine board. I have a completely untouched, mint condition AEKII that will be staying that way - but I also picked up a couple rough ones to harvest from.
Think of it as giving the old girl a new lease on life.
Try it and see. You'll need to buy an ADB to USB converter to use the board as-is. Or you can harvest the switches and the caps for a 60% board and get in on this buy.
I have two AEKs. I used the caps from one of them along with some orange alps from an Apple IIGS board, and made an AEKII 60% using this same PCB from round 2. I'm not sure what I'll end up doing with the other one, but it's not my favorite as-is.
Ok, so Matias sells stabs, check. Would just a set of costa clips work for connecting to the plate? Second question, does anyone know if anyone is selling 6u spacebar stab wires? I have never seen them but, maybe looking in the wrong place. Thanks for the help all. Very interested in this just not sure, on the tiny tiny details.
Hrm, perfect timing?
https://www.massdrop.com/buy/60-keyboard-case?mode=guest_open (https://www.massdrop.com/buy/60-keyboard-case?mode=guest_open)
Oh, and blue to match the Alpine set?? whuut
Also:
https://www.massdrop.com/buy/tex-acrylic-cnc-keyboard-case?mode=guest_open (https://www.massdrop.com/buy/tex-acrylic-cnc-keyboard-case?mode=guest_open)
3 hours left on the first drop I linked, I just joined myself - https://www.massdrop.com/buy/60-keyboard-case?mode=guest_open (https://www.massdrop.com/buy/60-keyboard-case?mode=guest_open)
I can not decide between this one and the acrylic one.
When it comes to the stabs, inserts I have reached out to Matias. Basically immediately after my last comment above. Will keep the thread up to date with their response. However a way to include inserts, stabs and wires into the GB would be grand. Especially with the infinity 6u spacebar layout. Now saying that, does the infinity plate allow for a longer, more standard spacebar or is it only the 6u? The only thing I want with the infinity layout is the dropped backspace (second row/more hhkb). The spacebar size doesn't bother me, and I would rather it be more standard.
question, does at101 have stepped capslock?
How similar is the Dell AT101W plate to a KBP V60 plate? The two look identical but I wan't to make sure before I place my order.
How similar is the Dell AT101W plate to a KBP V60 plate? The two look identical but I wan't to make sure before I place my order.
They are the same layout. This is standard ANSI.
How similar is the Dell AT101W plate to a KBP V60 plate? The two look identical but I wan't to make sure before I place my order.
They are the same layout. This is standard ANSI.
Yep, just the AT101 has a stepped Capslock.
How similar is the Dell AT101W plate to a KBP V60 plate? The two look identical but I wan't to make sure before I place my order.
They are the same layout. This is standard ANSI.
Yep, just the AT101 has a stepped Capslock.
Has this been discussed? Because looking at the plate drawings, both the AT101 and AT101W have the same location for the Caps Lock switch (non-stepped).
I was going to do plate and pcb but changed my mind. I think I edited my response but if I failed at that I just want a plate. I already have a teensy and a pile of diodes shouldn't cost me $40. Mine will be going in a pok3r case if everything goes as planned.
I'm an electrical engineer, age 29 on Sunday, and a ham radio operator, I think I can handle it lol can't waitI was going to do plate and pcb but changed my mind. I think I edited my response but if I failed at that I just want a plate. I already have a teensy and a pile of diodes shouldn't cost me $40. Mine will be going in a pok3r case if everything goes as planned.
If you are young, motivated, and have more time than money, your method is suitable.
Those of us who are old, busy, and have more money than available time will choose to purchase a PCB. ;)
I'm an electrical engineer, age 29 on Sunday, and a ham radio operator, I think I can handle it lol can't waitI was going to do plate and pcb but changed my mind. I think I edited my response but if I failed at that I just want a plate. I already have a teensy and a pile of diodes shouldn't cost me $40. Mine will be going in a pok3r case if everything goes as planned.
If you are young, motivated, and have more time than money, your method is suitable.
Those of us who are old, busy, and have more money than available time will choose to purchase a PCB. ;)
Thanks to the contributors
I was going to do plate and pcb but changed my mind. I think I edited my response but if I failed at that I just want a plate. I already have a teensy and a pile of diodes shouldn't cost me $40. Mine will be going in a pok3r case if everything goes as planned.
How similar is the Dell AT101W plate to a KBP V60 plate? The two look identical but I wan't to make sure before I place my order.
They are the same layout. This is standard ANSI.
Yep, just the AT101 has a stepped Capslock.
Has this been discussed? Because looking at the plate drawings, both the AT101 and AT101W have the same location for the Caps Lock switch (non-stepped).
Good question. I assumed that it was known.
I'm working on a solution to the stepped Capslock issue right now.
Can I see a show of hands, of the folks that ordered a Dell style board, who was going to cannibalize an old stepped caps and who was going to use something new (e.g. Alpine Winter)?
I'm working on a solution to the stepped Capslock issue right now.
Can I see a show of hands, of the folks that ordered a Dell style board, who was going to cannibalize an old stepped caps and who was going to use something new (e.g. Alpine Winter)?
Just a word on stabs: the plates in this GB use Alps stabilizer inserts. I'm not sure what kind of inserts the Tai Hao keysets from Massdrop use, but I know SP uses cherry costar-style keycap stab inserts. So the Matias stab wires will not fit SP caps. You will have to bend custom wires to use with SP Alps caps.
The Alps stabs that Matias sells should work with the Costar-style inserts. I just need to modify the plate drawings to include both "positions" for the stab clips. I'm only waiting on Edgar to get back to me with the dimensions for those (he's in China right now).
This will fit a standard 60% case right?
Is there a place i can source stabilisers?
I have a broken AEKII
@BlueNalgene: Could there be a plate option for the Infinity Standard, or is this equivalent to one of the plates already shown?Infinity Standard is not available. It would be standard ANSI with a uniform 1U top row instead of the wide backspace.
What kind of blue are we talking about for the powder coat? Are there any examples?
I'm dithering over which plates to get and sourcing or making the stabilizers. I would like to end up with a HHKB layout or something easily remapped to the same. When I am not using my HHKB, I currently have a V60MTS remapped to a HHKB layout. So, the plates I am considering are the HHKB, Infinity Hacker, and AT101W. Maybe someone could push me in the right direction regarding choice of plates and sourcing/making the stabilizers.
I am planning to order the Alpine Winter set. I also have a number of other complete or partial Alps-mount sets harvested from vintage boards, such as Dell 101W, and IBM 5140. In addition, I have modifiers for standard-layout boards from Matias. For example my V60MTS board has alphas from an IBM 5140; the mods and spacebar were purchased from Matias.I'm dithering over which plates to get and sourcing or making the stabilizers. I would like to end up with a HHKB layout or something easily remapped to the same. When I am not using my HHKB, I currently have a V60MTS remapped to a HHKB layout. So, the plates I am considering are the HHKB, Infinity Hacker, and AT101W. Maybe someone could push me in the right direction regarding choice of plates and sourcing/making the stabilizers.
Do you have caps ready to go? That would influence decisions.
Cherry Stabs will be the option for the Alpine Winter set. Clips should be harvestable or purchasable from Matias, the smaller stabilizer bars should be purchasable from MechanicalKeyboards/WASD but, if you are shooting for a 6u spacebar like the HHKB/Infinity you will have to bend your own stabilizer bar. Still haven't found any buyable options with that.Thanks. Looks like the safest bet for me would be the AT101W plate. I could use the same keycap/stabilizer scheme that I have used on my V60MTS. For example, I have used alphas and number keycaps from an IBM 5140 (dye-sub PBT) and mods plus spacebar purchased from Matias (ABS, but I don't mind ABS so much if it is only on the mods and spacebar). I've remapped the V60 to something close to the HHKB layout -- it doesn't have a split Right Shift, so I remap Right Ctrl as Fn.
Sorry if this has been asked already, my fine fellows, but will AEK/AEKII stabs (not inserts) work on the plates offered in this GB?Yes, since AEK uses normal Alps stabs.
Anyone have any opinions on this case? http://www.vendio.com/stores/E-sports-Gaming-equipments/item/keyboard-accessory/poker-2-metal-keyboard-case/lid=38489633
Anyone have in use with another PCB/Board? Love/Hate? Seems the blue color would go well with the blue on the ALPS Keycap MOQ.
For those who are harvesting Alps switches, which switches do you favor and which donor boards are you using?I think you will get more use and appreciate the orange Alps more in a custom 60%. I've got one of these PCBs already assembled with orange Alps from an old IIGS keyboard and caps from an AEKII, in a TEX acrylic case. It's a great keyboard.
I have this Magnavox VideoWriter keyboard with Orange Alps that I am considering using, but perhaps I should try to get it working as a keyboard in its own right.
(Attachment Link)
Which plate is considered "standard" and would fit all keycap sets?
Which plate is considered "standard" and would fit all keycap sets?
What size is the space bar on the dell at101w?
What size is the space bar on the dell at101w?
6.25u
You can explore the layout sizes on keyboard layout editor by looking at the ANSI 104 demo. (http://www.keyboard-layout-editor.com/##@@=Esc&_x:1%3B&=F1&=F2&=F3&=F4&_x:0.5%3B&=F5&=F6&=F7&=F8&_x:0.5%3B&=F9&=F10&=F11&=F12&_x:0.25%3B&=PrtSc&=Scroll%20Lock&=Pause%0ABreak%3B&@_y:0.5%3B&=~%0A%60&=!%0A1&=%2F@%0A2&=%23%0A3&=$%0A4&=%25%0A5&=%5E%0A6&=%2F&%0A7&=*%0A8&=(%0A9&=)%0A0&=%2F_%0A-&=+%0A%2F=&_w:2%3B&=Backspace&_x:0.25%3B&=Insert&=Home&=PgUp&_x:0.25%3B&=Num%20Lock&=%2F%2F&=*&=-%3B&@_w:1.5%3B&=Tab&=Q&=W&=E&=R&=T&=Y&=U&=I&=O&=P&=%7B%0A%5B&=%7D%0A%5D&_w:1.5%3B&=%7C%0A%5C&_x:0.25%3B&=Delete&=End&=PgDn&_x:0.25%3B&=7%0AHome&=8%0A%E2%86%91&=9%0APgUp&_h:2%3B&=+%3B&@_w:1.75%3B&=Caps%20Lock&=A&=S&=D&=F&=G&=H&=J&=K&=L&=%2F:%0A%2F%3B&=%22%0A'&_w:2.25%3B&=Enter&_x:3.5%3B&=4%0A%E2%86%90&=5&=6%0A%E2%86%92%3B&@_w:2.25%3B&=Shift&=Z&=X&=C&=V&=B&=N&=M&=%3C%0A,&=%3E%0A.&=%3F%0A%2F%2F&_w:2.75%3B&=Shift&_x:1.25%3B&=%E2%86%91&_x:1.25%3B&=1%0AEnd&=2%0A%E2%86%93&=3%0APgDn&_h:2%3B&=Enter%3B&@_w:1.25%3B&=Ctrl&_w:1.25%3B&=Win&_w:1.25%3B&=Alt&_a:7&w:6.25%3B&=&_a:4&w:1.25%3B&=Alt&_w:1.25%3B&=Win&_w:1.25%3B&=Menu&_w:1.25%3B&=Ctrl&_x:0.25%3B&=%E2%86%90&=%E2%86%93&=%E2%86%92&_x:0.25&w:2%3B&=0%0AIns&=.%0ADel)
Is there a tutorial on how to remove Alps switches?I don't think so. But, it's the same as removing MX switches and I'm sure there's tutorials on that.
Is there a tutorial on how to remove Alps switches?
Is there a tutorial on how to remove Alps switches?
Soldering iron, tweezers, and a healthy dose of gumption.
Anyone have any opinions on this case? http://www.vendio.com/stores/E-sports-Gaming-equipments/item/keyboard-accessory/poker-2-metal-keyboard-case/lid=38489633
Anyone have in use with another PCB/Board? Love/Hate? Seems the blue color would go well with the blue on the ALPS Keycap MOQ.
For those who are harvesting Alps switches, which switches do you favor and which donor boards are you using?
I have this Magnavox VideoWriter keyboard with Orange Alps that I am considering using, but perhaps I should try to get it working as a keyboard in its own right.
(Attachment Link)
Thanks for undertaking this.
Naive question: Will the PCB and plates have the necessary holes for installing the keyboard into a standard aluminum case such as the TEK CNC 60% case?
The holes are there. The TEX aluminum has had some problems with diodes though. You may need to do add a layer of dielectric to protect them if you use that case.
Thanks for undertaking this.
Naive question: Will the PCB and plates have the necessary holes for installing the keyboard into a standard aluminum case such as the TEK CNC 60% case?
The holes are there. The TEX aluminum has had some problems with diodes though. You may need to do add a layer of dielectric to protect them if you use that case.
Do you have recommendations on some materials or coatings to use to avoid electrical shorts in the aluminum case and how to install or apply these?
Is there a tutorial on how to remove Alps switches?
Soldering iron, tweezers, and a healthy dose of gumption.
Yet Another Naive Question (YANQ):
Could someone elaborate on the firmware for the PCB? For example, if I wanted to remap the standard layout for the AT101W plate to something close to a HHKB layout (swap Backspace and Backslash; swap CapsLock and Left Ctrl; swap Alt and OS; and remap Right Ctrl as Fn) or, if I wanted to go with the HHKB plate and map the keys exactly like a HHKB Pro 2 keyboard, will this be straightforward to do?
Oh I'm not worried about the soldering, more about the switches from the plate - is there a special tool or something?They're not really held on by the plate. All you have to do is tap the desoldered pins with a blunt object (like a small rubber mallet, back of a screwdriver, or whatever you can think of) and it will pop right out as long as the pins aren't bent.
Oh I'm not worried about the soldering, more about the switches from the plate - is there a special tool or something?They're not really held on by the plate. All you have to do is tap the desoldered pins with a blunt object (like a small rubber mallet, back of a screwdriver, or whatever you can think of) and it will pop right out as long as the pins aren't bent.
What is the current deadline? I'm strapped of cash and this is too good to pass up. I'm wanting some alps love.
Really want some plates but without a source for classic Alps style plate stabs I suppose they won't do me any good. I can't bring myself to salvage any of my old Alps boards :(
Oh I'm not worried about the soldering, more about the switches from the plate - is there a special tool or something?
Well it appears that I'll miss the GB, I just was in the market for one of the PCBS and one plate, but thank you anyways for running the GB for everyone else. :)What is the current deadline? I'm strapped of cash and this is too good to pass up. I'm wanting some alps love.
October 5th. Is the deadline. Don't go full wallethack if you can't afford it. Were you looking to order a full set or just a few bits? I'm considering holding the deadline for switches open a smidge longer since I think they will ship faster than the plates and pcbs could.Really want some plates but without a source for classic Alps style plate stabs I suppose they won't do me any good. I can't bring myself to salvage any of my old Alps boards :(
There is always the Matias stab option.
Hmm...I was thinking some, then looked at some pictures of Pokers without keycaps on. It looks like on those boards, the plate is not screwed to the case. If I wanted to build my board without a pcb, I'd have no way to attach the plate to the case it seems. Is this assumption correct?
Hmm...I was thinking some, then looked at some pictures of Pokers without keycaps on. It looks like on those boards, the plate is not screwed to the case. If I wanted to build my board without a pcb, I'd have no way to attach the plate to the case it seems. Is this assumption correct?
Right, the PCB is what attaches to the case, by screwing into standoffs in the case. The holes in the plate are larger than the screw heads, so that the screws can be installed/removed with the plate in place.
For those who are harvesting Alps switches, which switches do you favor and which donor boards are you using?
I have this Magnavox VideoWriter keyboard with Orange Alps that I am considering using, but perhaps I should try to get it working as a keyboard in its own right.
(Attachment Link)
Should I use any method to my madness with regards to selecting which switches to harvest from my AEK? Just do the 60%? pick ones that probably have less use? Should I keep the locking switch somewhere?TMK supports locking switch if you want to use it
To much time to wait without thinking and planning things if you know what I mean :eek:
Should I use any method to my madness with regards to selecting which switches to harvest from my AEK? Just do the 60%? pick ones that probably have less use? Should I keep the locking switch somewhere?TMK supports locking switch if you want to use it
To much time to wait without thinking and planning things if you know what I mean :eek:
Should I use any method to my madness with regards to selecting which switches to harvest from my AEK? Just do the 60%? pick ones that probably have less use? Should I keep the locking switch somewhere?
To much time to wait without thinking and planning things if you know what I mean :eek:
There are locking Alps switches?
... I want it...
Just trying to decided between Quiet Click and Clicky and whether or not to jump in for the anodizing. I think it would look pretty slick on the HHKB plate!I ordered clicks for one of mine and quiets for the other. I already have an Infinity with quiets and I love them. I'm sure the clicks will be great, and I don't think you'll have any regrets one way or the other.
Just trying to decided between Quiet Click and Clicky and whether or not to jump in for the anodizing. I think it would look pretty slick on the HHKB plate!I ordered clicks for one of mine and quiets for the other. I already have an Infinity with quiets and I love them. I'm sure the clicks will be great, and I don't think you'll have any regrets one way or the other.
Just trying to decided between Quiet Click and Clicky and whether or not to jump in for the anodizing. I think it would look pretty slick on the HHKB plate!I ordered clicks for one of mine and quiets for the other. I already have an Infinity with quiets and I love them. I'm sure the clicks will be great, and I don't think you'll have any regrets one way or the other.
So what I think you are saying is "why not both?"... classic wallethack ;D
Just trying to decided between Quiet Click and Clicky and whether or not to jump in for the anodizing. I think it would look pretty slick on the HHKB plate!I ordered clicks for one of mine and quiets for the other. I already have an Infinity with quiets and I love them. I'm sure the clicks will be great, and I don't think you'll have any regrets one way or the other.
So what I think you are saying is "why not both?"... classic wallethack ;D
Well it would have made sense to order all the same, since they come by the 10's and each board has just over 60 keys. But I want to try Matias Clicks, but not enough to risk two boards' worth. So I'll stick with Quiets for one, which I know I like, and take the plunge for the other board.
As to why I ordered two of these boards when I already have two Alps 60%'s that's just wallethack.
Just trying to decided between Quiet Click and Clicky and whether or not to jump in for the anodizing. I think it would look pretty slick on the HHKB plate!I ordered clicks for one of mine and quiets for the other. I already have an Infinity with quiets and I love them. I'm sure the clicks will be great, and I don't think you'll have any regrets one way or the other.
So what I think you are saying is "why not both?"... classic wallethack ;D
Well it would have made sense to order all the same, since they come by the 10's and each board has just over 60 keys. But I want to try Matias Clicks, but not enough to risk two boards' worth. So I'll stick with Quiets for one, which I know I like, and take the plunge for the other board.
As to why I ordered two of these boards when I already have two Alps 60%'s that's just wallethack.
Seeing as 70 switches are going to cos me about the same as a case of beer I might end up getting a set of both. The only Alps I can remember trying in real life was a Dell with Black Alps and I wasn't really blown away, so I guess I'm just trying to hedge my bets a bit.
Should I use any method to my madness with regards to selecting which switches to harvest from my AEK? Just do the 60%? pick ones that probably have less use? Should I keep the locking switch somewhere?TMK supports locking switch if you want to use it
To much time to wait without thinking and planning things if you know what I mean :eek:
I know, I have adb-usb on a teensy right now but I'm thinking about moving the switch to a layer toggle maybe instead. Just curious if anybody else has ideas for that.
Should I use any method to my madness with regards to selecting which switches to harvest from my AEK? Just do the 60%? pick ones that probably have less use? Should I keep the locking switch somewhere?TMK supports locking switch if you want to use it
To much time to wait without thinking and planning things if you know what I mean :eek:
I know, I have adb-usb on a teensy right now but I'm thinking about moving the switch to a layer toggle maybe instead. Just curious if anybody else has ideas for that.
I'm kinda curious about this too now, has anybody used a locking switch as a function layer, or something even crazier?
Hmm... guys.. is there more than one version of the AT102W? I replicated the alpha part of the plate in my AT102W in CAD and it ended up like this:
(Attachment Link)
And this is what the plate in the OP looks like:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/VEpgjGnm.png)
Difference is the stepped caps lock... thoughts on this?
Edit: Oh, never mind! I just read through the entire thread and realised it had been discussed before.
On-center in both cases. And FWIW, the Tai Hao sets on Massdrop are also on center.Hmm... guys.. is there more than one version of the AT102W? I replicated the alpha part of the plate in my AT102W in CAD and it ended up like this:
(Attachment Link)
And this is what the plate in the OP looks like:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/VEpgjGnm.png)
Difference is the stepped caps lock... thoughts on this?
Edit: Oh, never mind! I just read through the entire thread and realised it had been discussed before.
I know you edited your post already, but honestly, I wasn't looking at a real life example when I designed that plate. I wasn't aware that the Dells had a stepped caps lock position. Depending on which caps people are planning on using for their builds, I can change it easily to the stepped version.
@njbair, what is Alpine Winter doing for a Caps Lock key...stepped or centered? Do you know offhand which Badwrench's mods included?
On-center in both cases. And FWIW, the Tai Hao sets on Massdrop are also on center.Hmm... guys.. is there more than one version of the AT102W? I replicated the alpha part of the plate in my AT102W in CAD and it ended up like this:
(Attachment Link)
And this is what the plate in the OP looks like:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/VEpgjGnm.png)
Difference is the stepped caps lock... thoughts on this?
Edit: Oh, never mind! I just read through the entire thread and realised it had been discussed before.
I know you edited your post already, but honestly, I wasn't looking at a real life example when I designed that plate. I wasn't aware that the Dells had a stepped caps lock position. Depending on which caps people are planning on using for their builds, I can change it easily to the stepped version.
@njbair, what is Alpine Winter doing for a Caps Lock key...stepped or centered? Do you know offhand which Badwrench's mods included?
Black Alps are the worst. That's not even really an opinion. I've seen people recommend buying a Dell AT101 with Black Alps just for the chassis, then getting another Alps board to harvest the switches from (AEKII, IIGS, etc). They're throwaway switches, really. No comparison to Orange/Salmon Alps or Matias.
I'm kinda curious about this too now, has anybody used a locking switch as a function layer, or something even crazier?
This would be the best solution.On-center in both cases. And FWIW, the Tai Hao sets on Massdrop are also on center.Hmm... guys.. is there more than one version of the AT102W? I replicated the alpha part of the plate in my AT102W in CAD and it ended up like this:
(Attachment Link)
And this is what the plate in the OP looks like:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/VEpgjGnm.png)
Difference is the stepped caps lock... thoughts on this?
Edit: Oh, never mind! I just read through the entire thread and realised it had been discussed before.
I know you edited your post already, but honestly, I wasn't looking at a real life example when I designed that plate. I wasn't aware that the Dells had a stepped caps lock position. Depending on which caps people are planning on using for their builds, I can change it easily to the stepped version.
@njbair, what is Alpine Winter doing for a Caps Lock key...stepped or centered? Do you know offhand which Badwrench's mods included?
Thanks for the quick response! I suppose we should keep the centered position then, for compatibility with current and future GB sets. This would really only hurt anyone who is planning on salvaging keycaps from a vintage AT101(W).
I know i3oilermaker had SP make molds for center-stemmed, stepped caps lock keys for MX, and I'm pretty sure they can swap in an Alps mount stem if requested...
Hmm... guys.. is there more than one version of the AT102W? I replicated the alpha part of the plate in my AT102W in CAD and it ended up like this:
(Attachment Link)
And this is what the plate in the OP looks like:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/VEpgjGnm.png)
Difference is the stepped caps lock... thoughts on this?
Edit: Oh, never mind! I just read through the entire thread and realised it had been discussed before.
I know you edited your post already, but honestly, I wasn't looking at a real life example when I designed that plate. I wasn't aware that the Dells had a stepped caps lock position. Depending on which caps people are planning on using for their builds, I can change it easily to the stepped version.
I'm kinda curious about this too now, has anybody used a locking switch as a function layer, or something even crazier?
Thanks for the quick response! I suppose we should keep the centered position then, for compatibility with current and future GB sets. This would really only hurt anyone who is planning on salvaging keycaps from a vintage AT101(W).
I know i3oilermaker had SP make molds for center-stemmed, stepped caps lock keys for MX, and I'm pretty sure they can swap in an Alps mount stem if requested...
Maybe at the end of the buy, BlueNalgene can track down everyone who ordered the affected plate, and ask them whether they want on-center or stepped. In fact, he may have already mentioned this...
I wish the deadline were 1 week later, so I would be able to join the GB. :(I can't speak for anyone, of course, but you might PM BlueNalgene and ask if he might be able to extend it for you for a few days. Some organizers are able to do that once in a while in certain circumstances. That is the advantage of having a community-organized group buy.
Well, you can't always get what you want, as someone wiser already said.
Will these stabs work? From an Apple M0116Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/fZYGGDLl.jpg)
Speaking of extending this, does anyone have a timetable on the shipping of plates/pcbs?
I'm literally the opposite of digi. Just joined the buy for those delicious Matias Quiets. One day I'll be as cool as him.Opposite of Digi... So you're not a 49ers fan?
I'm literally the opposite of digi. Just joined the buy for those delicious Matias Quiets. One day I'll be as cool as him.
Opposite of Digi... So you're not a 49ers fan?
Will these stabs work? From an Apple M0116Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/fZYGGDLl.jpg)
I believe so.
Will these stabs work? From an Apple M0116Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/fZYGGDLl.jpg)
I believe so.
I'm definitely going to need a longer space bar stab wire, hopefully the rest of em will work..
https://www.massdrop.com/buy/tex-metal-case
Anyone wanna join? Just need three more people to reach MOQ.
Also note the issue with some diode shorting on this particular case.
https://www.massdrop.com/buy/tex-metal-case
Anyone wanna join? Just need three more people to reach MOQ.
Also note the issue with some diode shorting on this particular case.
I'm literally the opposite of digi. Just joined the buy for those delicious Matias Quiets. One day I'll be as cool as him.
Matias MUSH Quiets?!?!
I'm literally the opposite of digi. Just joined the buy for those delicious Matias Quiets. One day I'll be as cool as him.
Matias MUSH Quiets?!?!
See? Still the opposite. I was pleasant and paid you a compliment. You're just rude.
https://www.massdrop.com/buy/tex-metal-case
Anyone wanna join? Just need three more people to reach MOQ.
Also note the issue with some diode shorting on this particular case.
All you need is a little dielectric to separate the metals. Electrical tape will work fine. If you want to make it look cleaner, you could try vinyl wrapping that you can get for cars.
I know it was a little up in the air but, have we confirmed that the plates will work with Costar inserts?The Costar inserts that snap into the plate? No, the plate will definitely NOT work with those.
What constitutes a set of stabs in this case? Enough for a 60% keyboard?
What constitutes a set of stabs in this case? Enough for a 60% keyboard?
That sort of depends on what layout you are doing. E.g. the sets won't have one for an Infinity spacebar.
The sets are what Matias defines as a set.
Would you like to know more? (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=75686.msg1881305#msg1881305)
Ah, sorry. Don't know how I manged to miss that thread since I am on here all day lol.
I thought you were going to add those holes once you received the dimensions from Mr. Matias.I know it was a little up in the air but, have we confirmed that the plates will work with Costar inserts?The Costar inserts that snap into the plate? No, the plate will definitely NOT work with those.
All this stabilizer talk is very confusing to me :-\Infinity kits come with a 6u stab set. But the costar wire gauge is thicker than Alps stab wires, so I don't know if it would fit in Alps clips (it might bind up or break the clips).
What are the options for a 6u stab that will work with these plates? Seems like there isn't an option for that in Blues IC. Seems that costar inserts (aka, the stabs that come with the infinity) won't work... is the only option cannibalizing a vintage alps board? Sorry if this was already covered in the thread, I didn't see an answer.
All this stabilizer talk is very confusing to me :-\Infinity kits come with a 6u stab set. But the costar wire gauge is thicker than Alps stab wires, so I don't know if it would fit in Alps clips (it might bind up or break the clips).
What are the options for a 6u stab that will work with these plates? Seems like there isn't an option for that in Blues IC. Seems that costar inserts (aka, the stabs that come with the infinity) won't work... is the only option cannibalizing a vintage alps board? Sorry if this was already covered in the thread, I didn't see an answer.
Probably bending your own wire would be best.
Correct. Or find someone with leet wire bending skills. Last I checked, nickheller was going to try his hand at that.All this stabilizer talk is very confusing to me :-\Infinity kits come with a 6u stab set. But the costar wire gauge is thicker than Alps stab wires, so I don't know if it would fit in Alps clips (it might bind up or break the clips).
What are the options for a 6u stab that will work with these plates? Seems like there isn't an option for that in Blues IC. Seems that costar inserts (aka, the stabs that come with the infinity) won't work... is the only option cannibalizing a vintage alps board? Sorry if this was already covered in the thread, I didn't see an answer.
Probably bending your own wire would be best.
Thanks. So to be clear I need: Alps plate clips (from Blues IC), costar MX cap inserts (to fit Alpine Winter) and then bend my own wire for the spacebar?
Cheers mate! I think I can probably manage bending one (to my own low standards)Correct. Or find someone with leet wire bending skills. Last I checked, nickheller was going to try his hand at that.All this stabilizer talk is very confusing to me :-\Infinity kits come with a 6u stab set. But the costar wire gauge is thicker than Alps stab wires, so I don't know if it would fit in Alps clips (it might bind up or break the clips).
What are the options for a 6u stab that will work with these plates? Seems like there isn't an option for that in Blues IC. Seems that costar inserts (aka, the stabs that come with the infinity) won't work... is the only option cannibalizing a vintage alps board? Sorry if this was already covered in the thread, I didn't see an answer.
Probably bending your own wire would be best.
Thanks. So to be clear I need: Alps plate clips (from Blues IC), costar MX cap inserts (to fit Alpine Winter) and then bend my own wire for the spacebar?
I thought you were going to add those holes once you received the dimensions from Mr. Matias.I know it was a little up in the air but, have we confirmed that the plates will work with Costar inserts?The Costar inserts that snap into the plate? No, the plate will definitely NOT work with those.
Got it, thanks.I thought you were going to add those holes once you received the dimensions from Mr. Matias.I know it was a little up in the air but, have we confirmed that the plates will work with Costar inserts?The Costar inserts that snap into the plate? No, the plate will definitely NOT work with those.
I will add the holes for the "Cherry" spacing for use with Costar-style (i.e. has the bend in the center for switch clearance) spring bars. I know, it's confusing. They still use the small plate inserts, identical to salvaged Alps stabilizer plate inserts.
IN NO CASE WILL COSTAR-TYPE PLATE INSERTS WORK WITH THESE PLATES.
Are we sure the 17AWG costar wires will work in the smaller Alps clips designed for 18AWG wire?
I have some spares of each. I'll try to test it today.Are we sure the 17AWG costar wires will work in the smaller Alps clips designed for 18AWG wire?
No, I haven't tried it.
Here is what the plate clips look like:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ubUPSGY.jpg)
JD, do you know if the stab wires from an Apple M0115 are the correct size for the SP Alpine set?
Also, if someone did spacebar wires for the group, that would be greeeaaaat, mmmkay? (Bill Lumbergh voice)
Would the Massdrop Alps keys be 100% compatible with the AT101W plate being offered here with the use of a Matias stabilizer set?
The Tai Hao spacebar has Cherry stab mounts. Does the Matias stab set account for that?Would the Massdrop Alps keys be 100% compatible with the AT101W plate being offered here with the use of a Matias stabilizer set?
Yes the plate is compatible with the caps. But make a note on there you want the UNstepped capslock.
The stabs are also compatible with this set.
The Tai Hao spacebar has Cherry stab mounts. Does the Matias stab set account for that?Would the Massdrop Alps keys be 100% compatible with the AT101W plate being offered here with the use of a Matias stabilizer set?
Yes the plate is compatible with the caps. But make a note on there you want the UNstepped capslock.
The stabs are also compatible with this set.
Hi,Corrosion protection. But even with caps on, some bits of the plate will be visible. It's mostly a bling thing.
Sorry for the probably silly question but I'm at a loss.
Regarding the powder coating option for the plate, wont the plate be covered / not visible? Is there a functional reason to get my plates powder coated?
Which of these plates would work with the ovilette/dolch alps keycaps from mechanicalkeyboards.com?Correct.
I would assume the at101w as it is a standard ansi layout, is that correct?
Thanks, I think im ordering one then :)Which of these plates would work with the ovilette/dolch alps keycaps from mechanicalkeyboards.com?Correct.
I would assume the at101w as it is a standard ansi layout, is that correct?
Make sure you specify non-stepped caps lock in the notes.Thanks, I think im ordering one then :)Which of these plates would work with the ovilette/dolch alps keycaps from mechanicalkeyboards.com?Correct.
I would assume the at101w as it is a standard ansi layout, is that correct?
Hi,Corrosion protection. But even with caps on, some bits of the plate will be visible. It's mostly a bling thing.
Sorry for the probably silly question but I'm at a loss.
Regarding the powder coating option for the plate, wont the plate be covered / not visible? Is there a functional reason to get my plates powder coated?
Hi,Corrosion protection. But even with caps on, some bits of the plate will be visible. It's mostly a bling thing.
Sorry for the probably silly question but I'm at a loss.
Regarding the powder coating option for the plate, wont the plate be covered / not visible? Is there a functional reason to get my plates powder coated?
It will be visible bling on the HHKB plate :cool:
Any options for cheap cases? I've been eyeing http://world.taobao.com/item/44521181795.htm for a while but I'm concerned on quality and the cost of the Taobao proxy's shipping to the USA so I never pulled the trigger.
Looks good. Is there an alternative vendor for this case that accepts PayPal?Any options for cheap cases? I've been eyeing http://world.taobao.com/item/44521181795.htm for a while but I'm concerned on quality and the cost of the Taobao proxy's shipping to the USA so I never pulled the trigger.
I was thinking of getting this (http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Mini-Keyboard-GH60-plastic-Case-for-60-Mechanical-Keyboard-Compatoble-PBT-Keycaps-Poker2-Pok3r-Faceu-60/32311183273.html). I mean it states that it's "Compatoble PBT Keycaps" and it will "Match all 60 keyboard", it has all the features I need!
Looks good. Is there an alternative vendor for this case that accepts PayPal?Any options for cheap cases? I've been eyeing http://world.taobao.com/item/44521181795.htm for a while but I'm concerned on quality and the cost of the Taobao proxy's shipping to the USA so I never pulled the trigger.
I was thinking of getting this (http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Mini-Keyboard-GH60-plastic-Case-for-60-Mechanical-Keyboard-Compatoble-PBT-Keycaps-Poker2-Pok3r-Faceu-60/32311183273.html). I mean it states that it's "Compatoble PBT Keycaps" and it will "Match all 60 keyboard", it has all the features I need!
One last question, this one is just my impatience. Roughly how long will it take to get to canada? I'm only ordering a plate and 70ish switches...
thanks.
I finally stopped ****ering around, dawdling, and ordered an at101w, click switches and caps from massdrop :D Although i feel my wallet tingling...
I would, and it would go great with my all blue setup, but I'm poor and on a budget. (by that i mean I'm in school still :P)I finally stopped ****ering around, dawdling, and ordered an at101w, click switches and caps from massdrop :D Although i feel my wallet tingling...
That tingling feeling is your wallet telling you to buy Alpine Winter caps, too.
and I'm like everybody else, hoping for a crazy unique elephant artisan... FOR ALPS!
now all we need is a mountain alps keycap to impale our fingers on!
If you make it, and make it good, I'm buying one. No maybes from me.and I'm like everybody else, hoping for a crazy unique elephant artisan... FOR ALPS!
now all we need is a mountain alps keycap to impale our fingers on!
njbair has requested that from me for his buy...I'm still trying to see if there's a way to do it where it wouldn't look and feel awful.
and I'm like everybody else, hoping for a crazy unique elephant artisan... FOR ALPS!
now all we need is a mountain alps keycap to impale our fingers on!
njbair has requested that from me for his buy...I'm still trying to see if there's a way to do it where it wouldn't look and feel awful.
Heck, if someone made a banana keycap, I'd buy it... loland I'm like everybody else, hoping for a crazy unique elephant artisan... FOR ALPS!
now all we need is a mountain alps keycap to impale our fingers on!
njbair has requested that from me for his buy...I'm still trying to see if there's a way to do it where it wouldn't look and feel awful.
If not I'll settle for a ghost Enterprise keycap.
and I'm like everybody else, hoping for a crazy unique elephant artisan... FOR ALPS!
now all we need is a mountain alps keycap to impale our fingers on!
njbair has requested that from me for his buy...I'm still trying to see if there's a way to do it where it wouldn't look and feel awful.
What is this crazy urge I'm having, making me want to order a third kit?
MUST...RESIST...THE WALLET...HACK
What is this crazy urge I'm having, making me want to order a third kit?
MUST...RESIST...THE WALLET...HACK
I'm already in for 2 plates and pcbs(AT101W & Infinity)....but the HHKB layout is calling for me. It is like a horrible siren, singing a song that goes "buy one more kit."
Someone asked me a question in PM that I couldn't answer, maybe someone here could help.
Is the PCB compatible with LED's?
Someone asked me a question in PM that I couldn't answer, maybe someone here could help.
Is the PCB compatible with LED's?
Someone asked me a question in PM that I couldn't answer, maybe someone here could help.
Is the PCB compatible with LED's?
No. It has only a LED on back for debug or user programming purpose.
LED-less is a virtue of this PCB, just my opinion :D
Someone asked me a question in PM that I couldn't answer, maybe someone here could help.
Is the PCB compatible with LED's?
No. It has only a LED on back for debug or user programming purpose.
LED-less is a virtue of this PCB, just my opinion :D
Is this still closing today?I hope so because if it stays open I may not be able to resist buying a third kit.
Is this still closing today?I hope so because if it stays open I may not be able to resist buying a third kit.
Added quiet clicks to my order because why not for $12!Good point! Lemme do that as well...
Added quiet clicks to my order because why not for $12!Good point! Lemme do that as well...
Added quiet clicks to my order because why not for $12!Good point! Lemme do that as well...
Hmmm. How would one change an order ? :))
Just PM BlueNalgene. GB leaders love manually changing orders!
Edit: as long as you're upping your order, that is.
Got it. I've got you down for 8 more sets.Just PM BlueNalgene. GB leaders love manually changing orders!
Edit: as long as you're upping your order, that is.
brb modifying my alpine winter order 8 times! ;)
Got it. I've got you down for 8 more sets.Just PM BlueNalgene. GB leaders love manually changing orders!
Edit: as long as you're upping your order, that is.
brb modifying my alpine winter order 8 times! ;)
Don't worry, I'm not going to send you nine orders. You're just going to pay for them.Got it. I've got you down for 8 more sets.Just PM BlueNalgene. GB leaders love manually changing orders!
Edit: as long as you're upping your order, that is.
brb modifying my alpine winter order 8 times! ;)
:eek:
Don't worry, I'm not going to send you nine orders. You're just going to pay for them.Got it. I've got you down for 8 more sets.Just PM BlueNalgene. GB leaders love manually changing orders!
Edit: as long as you're upping your order, that is.
brb modifying my alpine winter order 8 times! ;)
:eek:
Don't worry, I'm not going to send you nine orders. You're just going to pay for them.Got it. I've got you down for 8 more sets.Just PM BlueNalgene. GB leaders love manually changing orders!
Edit: as long as you're upping your order, that is.
brb modifying my alpine winter order 8 times! ;)
:eek:
I figured the PCB wasn't compatible with LEDs, but I wanted to make sure. I didn't know if you could use an LED as a diode and still have it work for backlighting.PROTIP: scroll to the bottom of the home page down to the "who's online" section. Look for a mod (they are a different color) and PM them to approve your GB thread.
The GB will close today. I don't do encores.
If anyone has any last minute changes, I would be happy to take care of them for you. Just hit me up with a PM.
I'm still waiting on the Stab GB to go live here. Hoff must be napping.
I figured the PCB wasn't compatible with LEDs, but I wanted to make sure. I didn't know if you could use an LED as a diode and still have it work for backlighting.PROTIP: scroll to the bottom of the home page down to the "who's online" section. Look for a mod (they are a different color) and PM them to approve your GB thread.
The GB will close today. I don't do encores.
If anyone has any last minute changes, I would be happy to take care of them for you. Just hit me up with a PM.
I'm still waiting on the Stab GB to go live here. Hoff must be napping.
You didn't save the "modify" link Google gave you? :D
i'm new to this stuff - would i be able to get away with ordering just a plate without a pcb and wiring it all to a teensy and still be able to fit it in a standard 60% case? or should i order pcb and plate?
i'm new to this stuff - would i be able to get away with ordering just a plate without a pcb and wiring it all to a teensy and still be able to fit it in a standard 60% case? or should i order pcb and plate?
i'm new to this stuff - would i be able to get away with ordering just a plate without a pcb and wiring it all to a teensy and still be able to fit it in a standard 60% case? or should i order pcb and plate?
You can totally do it with just a Teensy and wire, but it will probably be more work. PM me if you want to change your order.
i'm new to this stuff - would i be able to get away with ordering just a plate without a pcb and wiring it all to a teensy and still be able to fit it in a standard 60% case? or should i order pcb and plate?
You will need a pcb - the holes in the plate are too big for mounting screws.
Here's what a build without the pcb looks like http://imgur.com/a/3qYAf
It won't fit in the pok3r case I have unfortunately.
The order form is now CLOSED.
If you still have changes to make to your order, please contact me soon so I can take care of that for you.
OP updated with counts and strikethrough.
I didn't make it. I PM'd Blue about a third kit. I'm weak.I PM'd him last minute to add switches lol. They were very well priced :D
Yeah, considering adding some more switches myself... Blue, is it still possible to add?
When can we expect invoices to be sent out?
Are we at the .16$ price for the quiet clicks yet? If we are or are close enough to push it over, ill get some more.
When exactly are you going to close the gb (time wise)?
On the next Quantum Leap:When exactly are you going to close the gb (time wise)?
like... three hours ago?
When exactly are you going to close the gb (time wise)?
On the next Quantum Leap:When exactly are you going to close the gb (time wise)?
like... three hours ago?
Sam leaps back three hours to help a swimming bird buy a keyboard before the deadline.
Wait, will this work with a poker ii case without a pcb? If not I'll have to change my order, I was planning to wire with a teensyYou would have to find a way to fasten it to the case, since the plate has no mounting holes, only through holes for access to the PCB mounting holes.
Wait, will this work with a poker ii case without a pcb? If not I'll have to change my order, I was planning to wire with a teensyYou would have to find a way to fasten it to the case, since the plate has no mounting holes, only through holes for access to the PCB mounting holes.
Would using standoffs work?Wait, will this work with a poker ii case without a pcb? If not I'll have to change my order, I was planning to wire with a teensyYou would have to find a way to fasten it to the case, since the plate has no mounting holes, only through holes for access to the PCB mounting holes.
I ordered 3 sets: Dell ANSI, Infinity, and HHKB. With PCBs for all of them. I got switches for two of them, one with quiets and one with clicks. The HHKB plate is getting powder coated and the other two will be bare.Wait, will this work with a poker ii case without a pcb? If not I'll have to change my order, I was planning to wire with a teensyYou would have to find a way to fasten it to the case, since the plate has no mounting holes, only through holes for access to the PCB mounting holes.
Sorry if it's already been posted but what case are you going to use for yours Nick?
Also, what layout are you going for?
I ordered 3 sets: Dell ANSI, Infinity, and HHKB. With PCBs for all of them. I got switches for two of them, one with quiets and one with clicks. The HHKB plate is getting powder coated and the other two will be bare.Wait, will this work with a poker ii case without a pcb? If not I'll have to change my order, I was planning to wire with a teensyYou would have to find a way to fasten it to the case, since the plate has no mounting holes, only through holes for access to the PCB mounting holes.
Sorry if it's already been posted but what case are you going to use for yours Nick?
Also, what layout are you going for?
I'm honestly not sure what I'll be using for cases yet, but I'm thinking about trying my hand at a wooden case for at least one of them.
Depending on the shade of blue the powder coating turns out to be, I may want to get one of those blue TEX aluminum cases for it. But it will be a while before I'll have more funds for keyboard parts, especially with Alpine Winter (I'll be buying three sets myself if we hit 100).
I have a black TEX case already. It's not a bad case. I also have one of their acrylic 60% cases. I'm eager to try something different.I ordered 3 sets: Dell ANSI, Infinity, and HHKB. With PCBs for all of them. I got switches for two of them, one with quiets and one with clicks. The HHKB plate is getting powder coated and the other two will be bare.Wait, will this work with a poker ii case without a pcb? If not I'll have to change my order, I was planning to wire with a teensyYou would have to find a way to fasten it to the case, since the plate has no mounting holes, only through holes for access to the PCB mounting holes.
Sorry if it's already been posted but what case are you going to use for yours Nick?
Also, what layout are you going for?
I'm honestly not sure what I'll be using for cases yet, but I'm thinking about trying my hand at a wooden case for at least one of them.
Depending on the shade of blue the powder coating turns out to be, I may want to get one of those blue TEX aluminum cases for it. But it will be a while before I'll have more funds for keyboard parts, especially with Alpine Winter (I'll be buying three sets myself if we hit 100).
Yeah I almost joined that massdrop buy for the cases but read about shorting in the OP and didn't want to risk it
Does anyone have a cad file for a case with no pcb that I could make on a cnc?There's got to be a way to use standoffs to raise the height up to the plate level, then you could just use washers around the screws to bite down on the plate.
I'm bad with freecad/librecad and such.
Eh ,first build, I'm a noob. I don't deny that.Does anyone have a cad file for a case with no pcb that I could make on a cnc?There's got to be a way to use standoffs to raise the height up to the plate level, then you could just use washers around the screws to bite down on the plate.
I'm bad with freecad/librecad and such.
Does anyone have a cad file for a case with no pcb that I could make on a cnc?There's got to be a way to use standoffs to raise the height up to the plate level, then you could just use washers around the screws to bite down on the plate.
I'm bad with freecad/librecad and such.
Us Canadians get ripped off with these prices. This keyboard will be my prized object in my igloo among my dog sled team and maple syrup collection... LolCan't you just fashion a case out of recycled Molson cans and hockey pucks?
(I'm allowed to make stereotypical jokes about myself)
Us Canadians get ripped off with these prices. This keyboard will be my prized object in my igloo among my dog sled team and maple syrup collection... LolCan't you just fashion a case out of recycled Molson cans and hockey pucks?
(I'm allowed to make stereotypical jokes about myself)
I hate being indecisive...
I hate being indecisive...
Are you sure?
I hate being indecisive...
Are you sure?
Yes. I just cost myself another $45.
I hate being indecisive...
Are you sure?
Yes. I just cost myself another $45.
You made the right choice. A Teensy is ~20USD, plus all the wire and extra time, that's got to add up to more than the cost of the PCB. And the PCB will help with the overall rigidity and stability of the board, even if you did manage to figure out a way to shoehorn the plate-only assembly into a case designed for a PCB.
I hate being indecisive...
Are you sure?
Yes. I just cost myself another $45.
You made the right choice. A Teensy is ~20USD, plus all the wire and extra time, that's got to add up to more than the cost of the PCB. And the PCB will help with the overall rigidity and stability of the board, even if you did manage to figure out a way to shoehorn the plate-only assembly into a case designed for a PCB.
Yep. Good thing I'm now broke.
I hate being indecisive...
Are you sure?
Yes. I just cost myself another $45.
You made the right choice. A Teensy is ~20USD, plus all the wire and extra time, that's got to add up to more than the cost of the PCB. And the PCB will help with the overall rigidity and stability of the board, even if you did manage to figure out a way to shoehorn the plate-only assembly into a case designed for a PCB.
Yep. Good thing I'm now broke.
Yeah but it's not real money, it's Canadian money.
WHAT? No! Our dollar went up 1 cent today! Now 1 USD is only 1.31 cad...
WHAT? No! Our dollar went up 1 cent today! Now 1 USD is only 1.31 cad...
Don't feel bad. As an American I'm forced to spend valuable keyboard moneys on things like firearms...and healthcare.
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAH
Part way through sending invoices I forgot to put a line for powder coating.
If you get two invoices, this is probably why. I'm so sorry.
Invoices sent to everyone.
With that minor hiccup and the fact that I am suddenly responsible for so much money combined with the fact that I have literally been perfecting the spreadsheet for 12 hours straight.... I'm done for the night. I'm going to go ride out this panic attack under a blanket with some shoegaze.
If you have issues with your orders or questions, PM me and I get to it tomorrow.
There's got to be a way to use standoffs to raise the height up to the plate level, then you could just use washers around the screws to bite down on the plate.
i hope you are not factoring in those customs charges into what you will be charging the buyers?
i hope you are not factoring in those customs charges into what you will be charging the buyers?
I doubt it since customs charges are to be paid to the customs office, usually through your postman or delivery service. The sender doesn't enter into it.
Assuming it is shipped in a box I thought the $18 shipping charge to Belgium on the invoice was quite reasonable.
I'd like to thank the OP for his efforts. I sincerely appreciate the professionalism and lack of drama with this GB thus far. :thumb:
I'm disappointed that I couldn't have ordered a few more sets, but I'm already over budget and I still need to get an order in for those shiny Alpine Winter caps. :cool:
/* wallethack */
Invoice paid; I've finally joined the Alps Master Race! ;D
I'd like to thank the OP for his efforts. I sincerely appreciate the professionalism and lack of drama with this GB thus far. :thumb:
I'm disappointed that I couldn't have ordered a few more sets, but I'm already over budget and I still need to get an order in for those shiny Alpine Winter caps. :cool:
/* wallethack */
Invoice paid; I've finally joined the Alps Master Race! ;D
The master race was a concept in Nazi ideology in which the Nordic race—a branch of what in late-nineteenth and early-twentieth century taxonomy was called the Aryan race—represented an ideal and pure white race. (http://"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Master_race")
Along with the Jews and Gypsies, the overwhelming majority of the Slavic population were defined as non-Aryan Untermenschen, and a danger to the "Aryan" or Germanic Übermenschen master race. According to the Nazi secret Hunger Plan and Generalplan Ost, the Slavic population were to be removed from East-Central Europe through expulsion, enslavement, starvation, and extermination. The Nazis eventually decided to exterminate the Poles and most other Slavic people, except for a small percentage of people living in Eastern Europe who were deemed to be non-Slavic descendants of Germanic settlers, and thus subjects for Germanisation.
I'd like to thank the OP for his efforts. I sincerely appreciate the professionalism and lack of drama with this GB thus far. :thumb:
I'm disappointed that I couldn't have ordered a few more sets, but I'm already over budget and I still need to get an order in for those shiny Alpine Winter caps. :cool:
/* wallethack */
Invoice paid; I've finally joined the Alps Master Race! ;D
The master race was a concept in Nazi ideology in which the Nordic race—a branch of what in late-nineteenth and early-twentieth century taxonomy was called the Aryan race—represented an ideal and pure white race. (http://"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Master_race")
Along with the Jews and Gypsies, the overwhelming majority of the Slavic population were defined as non-Aryan Untermenschen, and a danger to the "Aryan" or Germanic Übermenschen master race. According to the Nazi secret Hunger Plan and Generalplan Ost, the Slavic population were to be removed from East-Central Europe through expulsion, enslavement, starvation, and extermination. The Nazis eventually decided to exterminate the Poles and most other Slavic people, except for a small percentage of people living in Eastern Europe who were deemed to be non-Slavic descendants of Germanic settlers, and thus subjects for Germanisation.
Oh god...
Anyone else notice a change in tone in this thread after it was linked to the noobs on Reddit? :blank:
Paid! Very excited about this...
...but per the expectations set in the OP, if the blue powdercoat doesn't make at least one lady faint I will be asking for a refund.
Paid! Very excited about this...
...but per the expectations set in the OP, if the blue powdercoat doesn't make at least one lady faint I will be asking for a refund.
Don't worry, the powder coating is endorsed by Bill Cosby, and guaranteed to make the ladies faint!
I sincerely appreciate the professionalism and lack of drama with this GB thus far. :thumb:
While we are waiting for the invoices to be paid so we can move on to the next step, please enjoy these charts I made from the sales data:Show Image(http://imgur.com/3cSF2cV.png)Show Image(http://imgur.com/hWNsNql.png)Show Image(http://imgur.com/kZWSmPo.png)Show Image(http://imgur.com/TUm3fAN.png)
Does the PCB/plate come with mounting hardware to use with a poker ii case? ex: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Mini-Keyboard-GH60-plastic-Case-for-60-Mechanical-Keyboard-Compatoble-PBT-Keycaps-Poker2-Pok3r-Faceu-60/32311183273.html
Or does that come with the case?
I'm still deciding if its work the hassle to design and make an acrylic case
Would I be able to use easy avr with this pcb?One of these days he's going to finish that thing.
You don't want to see me try to code... except for,
If on Ubuntu, open terminal, type: telnet towel.blinkenlights.nl
BAM. Star Wars.
Goddddddammmmitttt I can't believe I missed this 8( If someone has some extra quiet clicks when this whole thing goes through I'll help you make them disappear for money haha damn I could have snagged a pcb plate and switches all at once haha bravo and although I missed it thanks for making this happen seems like a really cool buy
Would I be able to use easy avr with this pcb?One of these days he's going to finish that thing.
You don't want to see me try to code... except for,
If on Ubuntu, open terminal, type: telnet towel.blinkenlights.nl
BAM. Star Wars.
I would say TMK is easy to do once you learn it. And you really need to know very little code.Would I be able to use easy avr with this pcb?One of these days he's going to finish that thing.
You don't want to see me try to code... except for,
If on Ubuntu, open terminal, type: telnet towel.blinkenlights.nl
BAM. Star Wars.
You replied to the star wars part. The one useless part in that post
But seriously, anyone know about easy avr or got a good tmk guide?
I probably missed it, but what's the cutoff date on payment? Rent plus dp for car has me tapped for a weekish
I'm hoping this is my last question, are the dolch doubleshots on massdrop worth the extra $3 USD over the black ones?They feel the same, so it really comes down to preference of color. I bought all three so I'm clearly not the one to help you decide, but Dolch is almost as versatile as WoB, and arguably more interesting, if a little bit overdone these days.
The Olivette ones are out, I have blue and black going on here.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but if I read this correctly we DO have to buy and solder our own diodes?
Pre soldered or not is okay, I just need to know if I need to spend $2... •_•
Correct me if I'm wrong, but if I read this correctly we DO have to buy and solder our own diodes?
Pre soldered or not is okay, I just need to know if I need to spend $2... •_•
Hasu included diodes on rounds 1 & 2 for those that ordered assembled PCB (the only option on this buy) so I imagine he'll do the same for this round.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but if I read this correctly we DO have to buy and solder our own diodes?
Pre soldered or not is okay, I just need to know if I need to spend $2... •_•
Hasu included diodes on rounds 1 & 2 for those that ordered assembled PCB (the only option on this buy) so I imagine he'll do the same for this round.
So he included them, but did not solder them then?
Correct me if I'm wrong, but if I read this correctly we DO have to buy and solder our own diodes?
Pre soldered or not is okay, I just need to know if I need to spend $2... •_•
Hasu included diodes on rounds 1 & 2 for those that ordered assembled PCB (the only option on this buy) so I imagine he'll do the same for this round.
So he included them, but did not solder them then?
Would it be a 3mm m2 screw? Or a different length?
It does if you want to cut a screw with that wire stripper.
Anyone else notice a change in tone in this thread after it was linked to the noobs on Reddit? :blank:
Probably. Canadian customs.Anyone else notice a change in tone in this thread after it was linked to the noobs on Reddit? :blank:
I just hope mine arrives before Deductivemonkee's so i can steal all the karma :)
It does if you want to cut a screw with that wire stripper.Rekt.
I don't wanna nitpick, but it is the tool made for the job... Would you like to know more (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MDPeKlrIdeQ)?It does if you want to cut a screw with that wire stripper.Rekt.
I don't wanna nitpick, but it is the tool made for the job... Would you like to know more (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MDPeKlrIdeQ)?It does if you want to cut a screw with that wire stripper.Rekt.
I don't wanna nitpick, but it is the tool made for the job... Would you like to know more (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MDPeKlrIdeQ)?It does if you want to cut a screw with that wire stripper.Rekt.
8/8, top diy know-how m8!
I don't wanna nitpick, but it is the tool made for the job... Would you like to know more (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MDPeKlrIdeQ)?
I don't wanna nitpick, but it is the tool made for the job... Would you like to know more (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MDPeKlrIdeQ)?
Dude sounds like Weebl :)) I kept waiting for the punchline or a song about weasels or something.
I don't wanna nitpick, but it is the tool made for the job... Would you like to know more (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MDPeKlrIdeQ)?
Dude sounds like Weebl :)) I kept waiting for the punchline or a song about weasels or something.
I was just trying to help, by pointing out (in a lighthearted way) that there is no need to overthink the screws, and that there is an option to cut them properly, yet easily with a simple tool. A tool that in my opinion everyone has laying around, who solders things. What i got in return is belittling: "hurr-durr look at that poor summer-child from the leddits trying to use a wire-cutter to cut screws, what a noob". I've been a long time lurker here, only PMing the issues/orders/requests that i had, and in retrospect i should have stuck to that and never post. Yours is indeed a tight-knit community, but from what i gathered in this thread not the most welcoming one.
EDIT: nvm, i re-read what you said and realized that u ment the dude in the video, guess i had a few too many and overreacted; leaveing the post anyhow cause some of it is never the less true and for everyone to see how butthurt i can get.
I always use M2 x 4mm (0.4mm pitch) screws in my Poker-compatible cases.
Yes, I'm sure those would work just fine.I always use M2 x 4mm (0.4mm pitch) screws in my Poker-compatible cases.
Like these? http://www.ebay.ca/itm/50-pcs-M2-x-4mm-Philips-Head-Screw-/350589181898?hash=item51a0be5fca
I'm still waiting on two users to reply with caps lock preference. I need those things soon so I can place the plate order. I will be sending a nag PM to those individuals.
I'm sending an official order to hasu for the PCBs, so we are about to be locked in.
Currently 72/96 invoices are paid.
Here is the current timeline:
Order from hasu tonight
Order from laser cutters tomorrow (pending caps lock questions)
Matias order hopefully Monday.
Everything else is unscheduleable at this time. (is unscheduleable a word?)
So here is the take home message. At this point, you're locked in. If you want to cancel your order after today, you should find someone to buy your slot, because I won't be taking them when the money is out the door on my end.
Come on.... 18 more orders needed for alps caps to drop... I don't want to pay retail price...What retail price? I don't even think you can get them outside of a group buy.
Come on.... 18 more orders needed for alps caps to drop... I don't want to pay retail price...What retail price? I don't even think you can get them outside of a group buy.
I'm surprised it hasn't even got 100 yet. Last time it was a 500 MOQ, and even with KBP having to buy 200 sets to tip it, that was 300 orders from individuals. I guess they saturated the market. It would probably be doing better if they were offering new colors this time.
I'm talking about Massdrop re-running the Tai Hao Alps sets, not Alpine Winter.Come on.... 18 more orders needed for alps caps to drop... I don't want to pay retail price...What retail price? I don't even think you can get them outside of a group buy.
I'm surprised it hasn't even got 100 yet. Last time it was a 500 MOQ, and even with KBP having to buy 200 sets to tip it, that was 300 orders from individuals. I guess they saturated the market. It would probably be doing better if they were offering new colors this time.
Massdrop has wayyy bigger reach than the folks that take time to comb through things on the hobbyist sites.
Come on.... 18 more orders needed for alps caps to drop... I don't want to pay retail price...What retail price? I don't even think you can get them outside of a group buy.
I'm surprised it hasn't even got 100 yet. Last time it was a 500 MOQ, and even with KBP having to buy 200 sets to tip it, that was 300 orders from individuals. I guess they saturated the market. It would probably be doing better if they were offering new colors this time.
Come on.... 18 more orders needed for alps caps to drop... I don't want to pay retail price...What retail price? I don't even think you can get them outside of a group buy.
I'm surprised it hasn't even got 100 yet. Last time it was a 500 MOQ, and even with KBP having to buy 200 sets to tip it, that was 300 orders from individuals. I guess they saturated the market. It would probably be doing better if they were offering new colors this time.
I just sent payment to hasu.(https://images.rapgenius.com/cp69v4hxz3rlyu5u6ohinqfn1.300x400x10.gif)
This ball is rolling.
Come on.... 18 more orders needed for alps caps to drop... I don't want to pay retail price...What retail price? I don't even think you can get them outside of a group buy.
I'm surprised it hasn't even got 100 yet. Last time it was a 500 MOQ, and even with KBP having to buy 200 sets to tip it, that was 300 orders from individuals. I guess they saturated the market. It would probably be doing better if they were offering new colors this time.
Come on.... 18 more orders needed for alps caps to drop... I don't want to pay retail price...What retail price? I don't even think you can get them outside of a group buy.
I'm surprised it hasn't even got 100 yet. Last time it was a 500 MOQ, and even with KBP having to buy 200 sets to tip it, that was 300 orders from individuals. I guess they saturated the market. It would probably be doing better if they were offering new colors this time.
You can get the dolch/Olivette for $34 USD on mechanicalkeyboards.com
Quick. Plain black or Dolch.Does the dolch look as brown as in the pictures?
Can't be too choosy about Alps caps at this stage of the game. I can't wait to get a look at the new Matias PBT caps when they become available. It sounds like they are in the home stretch, production-wise. :thumb:
Where can I get a red esc key that I've seen? I know its made for Cherry but I saw it for alps a few days ago somewhereSignature Plastics sells a doubleshot alps red esc key.
Where can I get a red esc key that I've seen? I know its made for Cherry but I saw it for alps a few days ago somewhere
Where can I get a red esc key that I've seen? I know its made for Cherry but I saw it for alps a few days ago somewhere
Where can I get a red esc key that I've seen? I know its made for Cherry but I saw it for alps a few days ago somewhere
You're probably talking about my Filco Zero with a red GEEK HACK cap on the Escape:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/fNhU1rT.jpg)
This pic was originally posted in my Tai Hao Alps Doubleshot review (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=75694).
I've never actually had the Zero opened up, but I'm sure the Pegasus would fit and work fine. I just don't need one because I've already got the USB to USB converter set up and programmed for all my other boards that don't have those kinds of options.Where can I get a red esc key that I've seen? I know its made for Cherry but I saw it for alps a few days ago somewhere
You're probably talking about my Filco Zero with a red GEEK HACK cap on the Escape:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/fNhU1rT.jpg)
This pic was originally posted in my Tai Hao Alps Doubleshot review (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=75694).
I didn't know they made Filcos with XM switches. I read somewhere that you are using hasus usb-to-usb converter, why is that? Does the pegasus hoof not fit in it / different PCB design (different pin-out, no daughter-board, etc.)?
Where can I get a red esc key that I've seen? I know its made for Cherry but I saw it for alps a few days ago somewhere
You're probably talking about my Filco Zero with a red GEEK HACK cap on the Escape:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/fNhU1rT.jpg)
This pic was originally posted in my Tai Hao Alps Doubleshot review (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=75694).
Cross post. Tai Hao Olivetti on my V60 MTS-QVery nice. I haven't even opened my Olivetti set yet. What do you think?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/keXXV3N.jpg)
I like them. They are way better feeling then the stock V60 MTS caps.Cross post. Tai Hao Olivetti on my V60 MTS-QVery nice. I haven't even opened my Olivetti set yet. What do you think?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/keXXV3N.jpg)
They are thicker than they looked in the Massdrop photos. They are pretty much as thick as SP caps. More quality issues, but overall, feel-wise they are very similar. A good deal for $20.I like them. They are way better feeling then the stock V60 MTS caps.Cross post. Tai Hao Olivetti on my V60 MTS-QVery nice. I haven't even opened my Olivetti set yet. What do you think?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/keXXV3N.jpg)
I've never actually had the Zero opened up, but I'm sure the Pegasus would fit and work fine. I just don't need one because I've already got the USB to USB converter set up and programmed for all my other boards that don't have those kinds of options.Where can I get a red esc key that I've seen? I know its made for Cherry but I saw it for alps a few days ago somewhere
You're probably talking about my Filco Zero with a red GEEK HACK cap on the Escape:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/fNhU1rT.jpg)
This pic was originally posted in my Tai Hao Alps Doubleshot review (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=75694).
I didn't know they made Filcos with XM switches. I read somewhere that you are using hasus usb-to-usb converter, why is that? Does the pegasus hoof not fit in it / different PCB design (different pin-out, no daughter-board, etc.)?
I wrote a review of the converter (link under More in my sig), and I called it a game changer. That's because it replaces so many other controllers and mods, providing about 95% of the same functionality without having to remove a single screw.
Went to pay my bill. I'm curious though, why is shipping $9? Should be like $3-5 max if we're using a bubble mailer or a small box. Is the price including the shipping from Matias?
I didn't even pay attention to the shipping.Went to pay my bill. I'm curious though, why is shipping $9? Should be like $3-5 max if we're using a bubble mailer or a small box. Is the price including the shipping from Matias?
Shipping for the US is $9 for everyone. It is based on CONUS shipping + shipping supplies + distributed Matias shipping + tracking
Edit: Also paypal fees.
I think we should move this to the review thread or hasu's converter thread, we're drifting pretty far off topic.I've never actually had the Zero opened up, but I'm sure the Pegasus would fit and work fine. I just don't need one because I've already got the USB to USB converter set up and programmed for all my other boards that don't have those kinds of options.Where can I get a red esc key that I've seen? I know its made for Cherry but I saw it for alps a few days ago somewhere
You're probably talking about my Filco Zero with a red GEEK HACK cap on the Escape:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/fNhU1rT.jpg)
This pic was originally posted in my Tai Hao Alps Doubleshot review (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=75694).
I didn't know they made Filcos with XM switches. I read somewhere that you are using hasus usb-to-usb converter, why is that? Does the pegasus hoof not fit in it / different PCB design (different pin-out, no daughter-board, etc.)?
I wrote a review of the converter (link under More in my sig), and I called it a game changer. That's because it replaces so many other controllers and mods, providing about 95% of the same functionality without having to remove a single screw.
I checked your review, found hasu's post regarding it, as well. In your review you said that you might wanna build one yourself using an "Arduino to use on my desk" (i presume you mean the Leonardo, since hasu mentions the shield for it in his thread), and i tought that that's a bit too large and i would want to build a smaller one. I found this (https://www.circuitsathome.com/usb-host-shield-hardware-manual) page where they seem to have a smaller version of the shield that is pin compatible with the arduino pro mini 3.3V (https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/ArduinoBoardProMini) and they look nice and small together (https://www.circuitsathome.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/wpsc/product_images/UHSM_mating.jpg). Problem is that the pro mini has a different chip (that i don't think is compatible /w the firmware), but even if it where, it rocks serial instead of usb... never the less i could probably use that usb host mini shield and wire it to this (https://www.pololu.com/product/3102) thing that i got especially cause it can power another 3.3 or 5 volt device and has a stepup/stepdown converter (i was thinking along the lines of bluetooth). It is currently in my black dell (http://imgur.com/a/zdtOd) (since than i found some 90s vintage white doubleshot keycaps for him), pinouts probably don't match at all, but i have some fancy wires laying around... Only issue is i can't seem to find the shield here in Romania... but i found something else that peeks my interests, check out this (https://learn.adafruit.com/bluefruit-le-micro-atmega32u4-microcontroller-usb-bluetooth-le-in-one)! Not that i have the firmware to make it work... but still, look at it, so cool!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/oJnWW8W.jpg)
Just a notice for everyone. I am going to order the plates tomorrow. Last call on changes. I will placing the order around noon my time (12 hours 30 minutes from this post), and after that the orders are locked in.
I think we should move this to the review thread or hasu's converter thread, we're drifting pretty far off topic.
You're welcome to post! I wrote the review to help others. And hasu is selling those things so he wants to answer your questions about them.I think we should move this to the review thread or hasu's converter thread, we're drifting pretty far off topic.
Agreed, sorry that i drifted off topic. I won't post just yet in hasu's /your thread, cause i don't have the doohickey yet, it would be theory-crafting.
Changes to plate orders will no longer be accepted. I have sent the order to the fab.
Changes to plate orders will no longer be accepted. I have sent the order to the fab.
Changes to plate orders will no longer be accepted. I have sent the order to the fab.
Did I read correctly that Matias was shipping switch orders direct?
To me, a true mechanical keyboard should be loud, and obnoxious, and sponsored by hockey.
To me, a true mechanical keyboard should be loud, and obnoxious, and sponsored by hockey.
Amen!
Call it the Model Eh.To me, a true mechanical keyboard should be loud, and obnoxious, and sponsored by hockey.
Amen!
Now when I build my alps board, I have to name it the most stereotypical Canadian thing I can think of that isn't "the maple syrup board 3000"
Call it the Model Eh.To me, a true mechanical keyboard should be loud, and obnoxious, and sponsored by hockey.
Amen!
Now when I build my alps board, I have to name it the most stereotypical Canadian thing I can think of that isn't "the maple syrup board 3000"
PayPal is acting more and more like a bank. This is like the "we noticed you have no money, so we're going to charge you more" thing or the "you have money now, but you'll have to wait till after the weekend to use them" thing.
Why are we using PayPal again? Why isn't there a proper business account place which just allows you to accept PayPal for payments, but don't store your money there?
Well, this one isn't so bad, but some GBs have actually been stopped because of PayPal problems. Personally I like using Massdrop to avoid these problems, but then there are those who have had even larger problems with Massdrop, so you never really get away from it..
What I'm trying to say is, I guess... GBs are hard... Good on you for doing one :)
Who won the elephants bluenalgene? Or will it be a surprise and 3 people open their boxes and be like "oooh elephant"? I think it would be cooler for it to be a surprise, but its your call.
//edit: and also its 102 pcbs including my late order :D
I may use my business FreshBooks account to generate invoices for Alpine Winter, then people can pay me via PayPal or Stripe and I'll get the money instantly. I just have to make sure it's not going to mess up my tax return.
You are a true modern day poet.Who won the elephants bluenalgene? Or will it be a surprise and 3 people open their boxes and be like "oooh elephant"? I think it would be cooler for it to be a surprise, but its your call.
//edit: and also its 102 pcbs including my late order :D
Who said it was still only "3" "Elephants"?
The winners will probably be declared the day before the packages ship. I would prefer to surprise folks and not tell them beforehand, however the packages are going to full of stuff. I don't want a sweet reward to be thrown out with the packing peanuts. Gotta be practical.I may use my business FreshBooks account to generate invoices for Alpine Winter, then people can pay me via PayPal or Stripe and I'll get the money instantly. I just have to make sure it's not going to mess up my tax return.
I would recommend it. The invoice stuff on Paypal is very user friendly, but the giant spiked dong attached to it is a bit painful.
Who won the elephants bluenalgene? Or will it be a surprise and 3 people open their boxes and be like "oooh elephant"? I think it would be cooler for it to be a surprise, but its your call.
//edit: and also its 102 pcbs including my late order :D
Who said it was still only "3" "Elephants"?
The winners will probably be declared the day before the packages ship. I would prefer to surprise folks and not tell them beforehand, however the packages are going to full of stuff. I don't want a sweet reward to be thrown out with the packing peanuts. Gotta be practical.
Just ordered the last component needed to complete my alps build, the case! (I got a clear plastic case to show off the pcb,and because I'm too cheap for an aluminum case)
Who else is ready to see alps builds?
:thumb:Just ordered the last component needed to complete my alps build, the case! (I got a clear plastic case to show off the pcb,and because I'm too cheap for an aluminum case)
Who else is ready to see alps builds?
:thumb: :thumb: :thumb: :thumb: Awww ye!
My friends are gonna probably hate me, I'm going to have 9 extra click switches and I'll probably end up carrying one around to click when I'm stressedI keep two orange Alps switches on my desk for Zen purposes.
What kind of timeline do we expect for PCBs? A month, 2? Just curious. Not in a big hurry. I don't envy Hasu, he has a lot of work ahead of him.
Belive me, the PCB assembly is currently on top of my priority :D
My wild guess and hopeful expectation indicates I can ship them at the end of Nov or early Dec. But I'm actullay not good at estimating these things, no conviction.
Belive me, the PCB assembly is currently on top of my priority :D
My wild guess and hopeful expectation indicates I can ship them at the end of Nov or early Dec. But I'm actullay not good at estimating these things, no conviction.
hey guys, here's a preview (built with a custom plate) :DLooks awesome in that case! Did you retrobright the spacebar?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/9nwy9wl.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/DvQTFMX.jpg)
hey guys, here's a preview (built with a custom plate) :DLooks awesome in that case! Did you retrobright the spacebar?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/9nwy9wl.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/DvQTFMX.jpg)
Why aren't they all like this? Computer geeks don't even like sunlight.hey guys, here's a preview (built with a custom plate) :DLooks awesome in that case! Did you retrobright the spacebar?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/9nwy9wl.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/DvQTFMX.jpg)
didn't have to :eek: found an aek2 on ebay in really good shape for 30 euros shipped to me #soblest
Belive me, the PCB assembly is currently on top of my priority :D
My wild guess and hopeful expectation indicates I can ship them at the end of Nov or early Dec. But I'm actullay not good at estimating these things, no conviction.
are you doing everything by hand? :o
hey guys, here's a preview (built with a custom plate) :DShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/9nwy9wl.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/DvQTFMX.jpg)
hey guys, here's a preview (built with a custom plate) :DShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/9nwy9wl.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/DvQTFMX.jpg)
AEKII 60% with brown Alps… APPROVE!! :thumb:
hey guys, here's a preview (built with a custom plate) :D
linear brown alps :eek:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/9nwy9wl.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/DvQTFMX.jpg)
I've been very happy with the tex case for my Alps. I did have some diode shorting as mentioned in the OP, but electrical tape solved that.Two sweet looking boards there.Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/15/b98aad16dcaf5045faf0e9c0533d375b.jpg)Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/15/32b1a2ac2e6668af652c9821948f24ef.jpg)Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/15/78eb2b5da39c4a929b912d54ab57cbf0.jpg)Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/15/7038454e7bbd5947953bd0a684ca18da.jpg)Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/15/29172dd5b3d341db888e87edad91d0a3.jpg)
hey guys, here's a preview (built with a custom plate) :D
linear brown alps :eek:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/9nwy9wl.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/DvQTFMX.jpg)
hey guys, here's a preview (built with a custom plate) :D
linear brown alps :eek:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/9nwy9wl.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/DvQTFMX.jpg)
How are the brown alps, my good sir? There is very very little information on them. Have you used the other Alps linear switches? If so, then how do they compare? I'm guessing you got them from a DC-3014? Thanks for your feedback! Great looking boards!
hey guys, here's a preview (built with a custom plate) :D
linear brown alps :eek:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/9nwy9wl.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/DvQTFMX.jpg)
Looks great... I've been struggling to decide what to use for the case when I get mine set up. It'll just go into my Poker II's original case until I decide. So far silver seems like the best option to go with the AEK caps. My other thought was to seek out a paint to match the AEK and spray my poker II case.
I've been very happy with the tex case for my Alps. I did have some diode shorting as mentioned in the OP, but electrical tape solved that.Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/15/b98aad16dcaf5045faf0e9c0533d375b.jpg)Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/15/32b1a2ac2e6668af652c9821948f24ef.jpg)Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/15/78eb2b5da39c4a929b912d54ab57cbf0.jpg)Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/15/7038454e7bbd5947953bd0a684ca18da.jpg)Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/15/29172dd5b3d341db888e87edad91d0a3.jpg)
How are the brown alps, my good sir? There is very very little information on them. Have you used the other Alps linear switches? If so, then how do they compare? I'm guessing you got them from a DC-3014? Thanks for your feedback! Great looking boards!
unfortunately i have not used other linear alps, but i can't imagine a better fully-mechanical linear switch (outside of changing the spring weight, which would just be different, not better or worse). i got them from a pretty boring Visual terminal board.
How are the brown alps, my good sir? There is very very little information on them. Have you used the other Alps linear switches? If so, then how do they compare? I'm guessing you got them from a DC-3014? Thanks for your feedback! Great looking boards!
unfortunately i have not used other linear alps, but i can't imagine a better fully-mechanical linear switch (outside of changing the spring weight, which would just be different, not better or worse). i got them from a pretty boring Visual terminal board.
Thanks for the response. Good to know there's another source than just the DC-3014 that has them. How heavy do they feel compared to MX switches if you had to guess a weight? Sorry if the questions bug you, but I definitely appreciate the information. The model # on the terminal board would be helpful just to add to what we know about the brown linears, but it's too much to ask for, no worries. I don't want to derail the thread with my questions here. They definitely sound good though! :D
How are the brown alps, my good sir? There is very very little information on them. Have you used the other Alps linear switches? If so, then how do they compare? I'm guessing you got them from a DC-3014? Thanks for your feedback! Great looking boards!
unfortunately i have not used other linear alps, but i can't imagine a better fully-mechanical linear switch (outside of changing the spring weight, which would just be different, not better or worse). i got them from a pretty boring Visual terminal board.
Thanks for the response. Good to know there's another source than just the DC-3014 that has them. How heavy do they feel compared to MX switches if you had to guess a weight? Sorry if the questions bug you, but I definitely appreciate the information. The model # on the terminal board would be helpful just to add to what we know about the brown linears, but it's too much to ask for, no worries. I don't want to derail the thread with my questions here. They definitely sound good though! :D
no problem! they seem about as heavy as blacks, maybe heavier. i honestly dont know their rated weight.
I've been very happy with the tex case for my Alps. I did have some diode shorting as mentioned in the OP, but electrical tape solved that.
Drawer liner is full of holes though. Tape is still a safe bet.I've been very happy with the tex case for my Alps. I did have some diode shorting as mentioned in the OP, but electrical tape solved that.
Yeah I have the same case in black on my Poker II currently. Great case. No diode issue for me obviously but I did apply a layer of that rubbery drawer grip liner to minimize ping/reverb in the metal case though, would likely do the same with the AEK 60% which I'd imagine might block the shorting also.
Drawer liner is full of holes though. Tape is still a safe bet.
Drawer liner is full of holes though. Tape is still a safe bet.
Shelving liner is a good call, like the kind you use to line wire shelves.
http://www.amazon.com/Con-Tact-Brand-Textured-Shelf-Liner/dp/B002GTQO7Q/ref=pd_sim_201_5?ie=UTF8&refRID=0PSSGVHSMZYSGWAM9NR2&dpID=31y1M88FbDL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_
And finally paid. Hopefully, I wasn't the last, but hopefully I was so we can get stuff made now.
Hey all in trying to find some nice blue,brown or salmon alps and the aekll I just got off of eBay had salmon alps but they feel like they have crushed glass or sand in them. I tried taking some apart but there is more to them then I originally imagined lol I an also not trying to spend an arm and a leg as I completely went over my keyboard and vape budget for like the next 6 months :eek:
So I've done a little math, and I realized that it is actually cheaper to order more switches. The current order means I would need to get 2200 click, 4600 quiet click, and 1400 linear. This comes to $1,548. If I was to order something larger like 2600 click, 5200 quiet click, and 1800 linear, then we would hit the 9600 price reduction target. That total order is $1,344. This presents a problem though.
This is a non-profit group buy, and I have already charged you. The opportunity to save this money didn't happen until after the order form was closed, the main invoices were sent, and people scrambled to put in last minute orders. The average participant who ordered switches overspent by $5.75 with the max overspending being $20 for one user. But this money saved will be coming as more switches. So I need to correct this somehow.
There are some options
1. I could refund the money saved by moving to a lower price. The total I would need to pay back is $368. The majority of it would be paid by people who sent a donation, but I would still be paying out of pocket to refund.
2. I could send everyone extra switches. This would just give everyone bonus switches with their order. The downside is that the numbers generally wouldn't be large enough to fill out another board. This makes the switches kinda useless unless you order more from Matias or you just break a BUNCH while soldering.
3. The fun option. I could send everyone silly trinkets. I could use the money saved by ordering more switches to make some stickers, 3D printed pullers, or other lightweight fun thing to include in the order. I would probably toss a few extra switches to everyone as well. The bulk of the extra switches I would use as donation. The switches or money made from selling them at cost would be used as a donation to a cause we can agree on (e.g. EFF, Destiny, server funding, etc.).
I'm going to summon an admin or mod to add a poll to this thread.
So I've done a little math, and I realized that it is actually cheaper to order more switches. The current order means I would need to get 2200 click, 4600 quiet click, and 1400 linear. This comes to $1,548. If I was to order something larger like 2600 click, 5200 quiet click, and 1800 linear, then we would hit the 9600 price reduction target. That total order is $1,344. This presents a problem though.
This is a non-profit group buy, and I have already charged you. The opportunity to save this money didn't happen until after the order form was closed, the main invoices were sent, and people scrambled to put in last minute orders. The average participant who ordered switches overspent by $5.75 with the max overspending being $20 for one user. But this money saved will be coming as more switches. So I need to correct this somehow.
There are some options
1. I could refund the money saved by moving to a lower price. The total I would need to pay back is $368. The majority of it would be paid by money donated to me during the sale, but I would still be paying out of pocket to refund.
2. I could send everyone extra switches. This would just give everyone bonus switches with their order. The downside is that the numbers generally wouldn't be large enough to fill out another board. This makes the switches kinda useless unless you order more from Matias or you just break a BUNCH while soldering.
3. The fun option. I could send everyone silly trinkets. I could use the money saved by ordering more switches to make some stickers, 3D printed pullers, or other lightweight fun thing to include in the order. I would probably toss a few extra switches to everyone as well. The bulk of the extra switches I would use as donation. The switches or money made from selling them at cost would be used as a donation to a cause we can agree on (e.g. EFF, Destiny, server funding, etc.).
I'm going to summon an admin or mod to add a poll to this thread.
edit: clarity
I'm not voting in the poll because I'm okay with all three options. :)
Poll is up! :thumb:
Question though. The difference in cost between the two switch orders is $204, yet you mention that Option 1 would require you to refund $368. Could you explain this? Are you factoring in the reduced unit cost associated with the new order? I think it would almost be simpler to just divide that $204 amongst the buyers, scaled to order size, so you don't have to pay out of pocket. Correct? Then just keep the extra switches and sell them yourself. :thumb:
Poll is up! :thumb:
Question though. The difference in cost between the two switch orders is $204, yet you mention that Option 1 would require you to refund $368. Could you explain this? Are you factoring in the reduced unit cost associated with the new order? I think it would almost be simpler to just divide that $204 amongst the buyers, scaled to order size, so you don't have to pay out of pocket. Correct? Then just keep the extra switches and sell them yourself. :thumb:
Thanks for the polljob.
The $204 is the difference in the order cost. The $368 number is based on the savings for each person who paid for a $0.18 or $0.20 switch that I only pay $0.14 for.
Distributing money to refund participants is fine, but keeping something for myself isn't good. I want to make sure this is truly non-profit, minus donations. I am dreading how this is going to look on my taxes.
If you distribute the $204 and sell/gift the remaining switches you won't be keeping anything. :thumb: And you won't go in the red financially.
Voted for silliness & donations because I like both those things.
Poll is up! :thumb:
Question though. The difference in cost between the two switch orders is $204, yet you mention that Option 1 would require you to refund $368. Could you explain this? Are you factoring in the reduced unit cost associated with the new order? I think it would almost be simpler to just divide that $204 amongst the buyers, scaled to order size, so you don't have to pay out of pocket. Correct? Then just keep the extra switches and sell them yourself. :thumb:
Thanks for the polljob.
The $204 is the difference in the order cost. The $368 number is based on the savings for each person who paid for a $0.18 or $0.20 switch that I only pay $0.14 for.
Distributing money to refund participants is fine, but keeping something for myself isn't good. I want to make sure this is truly non-profit, minus donations. I am dreading how this is going to look on my taxes.
If you distribute the $204 and sell/gift the remaining switches you won't be keeping anything. :thumb: And you won't go in the red financially.
Voted, my vote should be worthless since I didn't order switches.
Oh, the joy of democracy. The current results indicate that whatever you do, it's going to tick off at least 45% of people...
Oh, the joy of democracy. The current results indicate that whatever you do, it's going to tick off at least 45% of people...
I know right. And people that aren't effected are voting too. I may be regretting choosing a democrazy over a form of government more in line with the Hannibal theme.
Oh, the joy of democracy. The current results indicate that whatever you do, it's going to tick off at least 45% of people...The best part is, if he had just kept his mouth shut he could have ordered the extra switches, pocketed the difference, and made even more money selling the extra switches at below retail in the classifieds.
PCB production state:You are a true hero, my friend.
Got part of PCBs and started assembly. My reflow oven and pick and place machin(my hands and eyes) works well so far. I hope they won't be broken until 100 pcbs are finished.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/CnrDXX3h.jpg)
PCB production state:Awesome! I noticed your last revision on the PCB was 10/15 - may I ask what you changed in the latest revision?
Got part of PCBs and started assembly. My reflow oven and pick and place machin(my hands and eyes) works well so far. I hope they won't be broken until 100 pcbs are finished.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/CnrDXX3h.jpg)
PCB production state:Awesome! I noticed your last revision on the PCB was 10/15 - may I ask what you changed in the latest revision?
Got part of PCBs and started assembly. My reflow oven and pick and place machin(my hands and eyes) works well so far. I hope they won't be broken until 100 pcbs are finished.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/CnrDXX3h.jpg)
10/14 Rev.C PCB: adds support for Cherry stepped Capslock and moves some SMT diodes
PCB production state:
Got part of PCBs and started assembly. My reflow oven and pick and place machin(my hands and eyes) works well so far. I hope they won't be broken until 100 pcbs are finished.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/CnrDXX3h.jpg)
PCB production state:
Got part of PCBs and started assembly. My reflow oven and pick and place machin(my hands and eyes) works well so far. I hope they won't be broken until 100 pcbs are finished.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/CnrDXX3h.jpg)
If I had any skills with a soldering iron, I would offer to help you. All I can offer in reality is a hearty 頑張って!I do have soldering skills, but with that many PCBs you have to use a reflow oven to make it happen fast. I'm at the other side of the planet, anyway, couldn't offer much help. :(
What is this poll about? What happened?Blue found a way to make things cheaper so he's trying to figure out what to do with the extra money.
What is this poll about? What happened?Blue found a way to make things cheaper so he's trying to figure out what to do with the extra money.
id say independent question ether more switches or money back .. but should be on a per order base .. instead of a global resolution
Especially since he didn't have to do the work at all. He saw an opportunity to go above and beyond for everyone who, by joining this buy, already implicitly indicated that they were okay with the price and the product. We should all be fine with whatever BlueNalgene decides. To quibble over a small handful of extra switches is just plain acting entitled.id say independent question ether more switches or money back .. but should be on a per order base .. instead of a global resolution
I guess... I get your point but Blue has already done extra work to get the lower deals. It's a lot to ask to make him them pass these savings back to people individually.
If I remember right, he'll be saving the money by buying more switches, right? So regardless of the poll, we all get extra switches, neh?
id say independent question ether more switches or money back .. but should be on a per order base .. instead of a global resolution
Eh, probably not. If refunds are preferred, then I will probably sell the extras to afford to refund everyone. If silliness/donations are preferred, most of the switches will be used for the donations.
Good news!
I finally was able to contact the final user with invoices! It turns out he just hadn't been on Reddit since I messaged him last, and he wasn't avoiding me. All is well. Money is in the account and the Matias order will be place tomorrow. Rather I mean the order will be placed later today since it is 3AM here, after I wake up and get some caffeine in me.
I have two things which are currently extra and in need of a loving home due to being dropped from an order. I have promised a user first right of refusal on them since he contacted me early on. If he doesn't want one or both of them, then I will post them here to see if anyone is interested.
Is it possible to die of anticipation?
Is it possible to die of anticipation?
This is clipping along at a healthy pace for a GB. If you want to find out if death by anticipation is possible, I could delay sending your package a few weeks after the big shipment. :p
Is it possible to die of anticipation?
This is clipping along at a healthy pace for a GB. If you want to find out if death by anticipation is possible, I could delay sending your package a few weeks after the big shipment. :p
Is it possible to die of anticipation?Translating and adapting a joke my dad says, the only one that dies of anticipation is the thanksgiving turkey. :))
There will probably be a noteworthy update until tomorrow.:)
Hi,
I'm somebody.
Anything.
Hi,
I'm somebody.
Anything.
That gave me something to read, for say... 20 seconds? Worth the wait!
Can somebody just post SOMETHING? Anything?
Hi,
I'm somebody.
Anything.
That gave me something to read, for say... 20 seconds? Worth the wait!
Haha. I do my best. ;D
Maybe go read up on the Monarch Alps custom! https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=75786.0
YCan somebody just post SOMETHING? Anything?
Travel is possible.
October!
YCan somebody just post SOMETHING? Anything?
Travel is possible.
October!
Hi,
I'm somebody.
Anything.
That gave me something to read, for say... 20 seconds? Worth the wait!
Haha. I do my best. ;D
Maybe go read up on the Monarch Alps custom! https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=75786.0
Been there done that, I watch almost EVERY current alps thread... I'm an addict and I haven't even started yet...
Thanks though :P
Good news!I'm interested if there is a PCB Really not sure why I set my mind on desoldering my infinite... It's my least favourite keyboard related activity! Ha ha
I finally was able to contact the final user with invoices! It turns out he just hadn't been on Reddit since I messaged him last, and he wasn't avoiding me. All is well. Money is in the account and the Matias order will be place tomorrow. Rather I mean the order will be placed later today since it is 3AM here, after I wake up and get some caffeine in me.
I have two things which are currently extra and in need of a loving home due to being dropped from an order. I have promised a user first right of refusal on them since he contacted me early on. If he doesn't want one or both of them, then I will post them here to see if anyone is interested.
Good news!I'm interested if there is a PCB Really not sure why I set my mind on desoldering my infinite... It's my least favourite keyboard related activity! Ha ha
I finally was able to contact the final user with invoices! It turns out he just hadn't been on Reddit since I messaged him last, and he wasn't avoiding me. All is well. Money is in the account and the Matias order will be place tomorrow. Rather I mean the order will be placed later today since it is 3AM here, after I wake up and get some caffeine in me.
I have two things which are currently extra and in need of a loving home due to being dropped from an order. I have promised a user first right of refusal on them since he contacted me early on. If he doesn't want one or both of them, then I will post them here to see if anyone is interested.
Nope, sorry. It looks like the only extras at the moment are plates.Good news!I'm interested if there is a PCB Really not sure why I set my mind on desoldering my infinite... It's my least favourite keyboard related activity! Ha ha
I finally was able to contact the final user with invoices! It turns out he just hadn't been on Reddit since I messaged him last, and he wasn't avoiding me. All is well. Money is in the account and the Matias order will be place tomorrow. Rather I mean the order will be placed later today since it is 3AM here, after I wake up and get some caffeine in me.
I have two things which are currently extra and in need of a loving home due to being dropped from an order. I have promised a user first right of refusal on them since he contacted me early on. If he doesn't want one or both of them, then I will post them here to see if anyone is interested.
Desoldering, desoldering. If you're working with a good PCB, it's hardly too tedious, just time consuming and boring. If you're working with a PCB with a tendency for lifted pads, it's a god dahamnuh nightmare, tedious, and time consuming. Luckily, the Infinity is pretty robust there. I have desoldered it twice with not even a hint of a lifted pad. Duck's PCBs on the other hand...
they really need a better manufacturer
Nope, sorry. It looks like the only extras at the moment are plates.S'all good! May the alp Gods shine on me whilst I banish the Cherries from the board.
Will our orders be coming with stabilizers? If not maybe thats what the extra $$ could go toward..
I totally forgot about stabs and missed the other GB.
Oh well, is there another place to order stabs? Just email Matias I guess?
What's a reasonable price for an AEKII? Have a few in the works but feel like they are a tad on the high side.$20-30 should be your goal but I have not seen many <$40 with shipping on ebay. I got two for $40 locally
What's a reasonable price for an AEKII? Have a few in the works but feel like they are a tad on the high side.
What's a reasonable price for an AEKII? Have a few in the works but feel like they are a tad on the high side.I got one for $30 with pristine caps. I ended up scratching one of the keys on the numpad so I probably have to buy another now. I'd say $50-$60 isn't too unreasonable if it's in good condition.
What's a reasonable price for an AEKII? Have a few in the works but feel like they are a tad on the high side.I got one for $30 with pristine caps. I ended up scratching one of the keys on the numpad so I probably have to buy another now. I'd say $50-$60 isn't too unreasonable if it's in good condition.
I've payed €30 including shipping for my AEK II with ISO layout. I'd say that's fair price considering how much i've payed for other keysets ... and they didn't even come with a keyboard as a bonus ;)What's a reasonable price for an AEKII? Have a few in the works but feel like they are a tad on the high side.I got one for $30 with pristine caps. I ended up scratching one of the keys on the numpad so I probably have to buy another now. I'd say $50-$60 isn't too unreasonable if it's in good condition.
$50 shipped would be tops I'd pay for an AEKII, $60 would be right out. The switches (Cream Damped) aren't great without modding, so you're basically paying for the key caps unless you're willing to put in a lot of work.
If you can find an AEKI, then you can pay more because you'd be looking at Salmon or Orange Alps.
the same way those who are desperate for blue Alps pay $100 + (ie, me :P).
the same way those who are desperate for blue Alps pay $100 + (ie, me :P).
I've been on the hunt for blue alps, but haven't come across a board at any price for a while. :(
the same way those who are desperate for blue Alps pay $100 + (ie, me :P).
I've been on the hunt for blue alps, but haven't come across a board at any price for a while. :(
Try all the keywords that will show you all of the vintage keyboard listings. I was able to get my board with blue Alps because it got buried underneath other listings very quickly since the listing didn't have any keywords that stood out as a blue Alps board.
I don't think I've seen it anywhere in the thread but is there a photo of the colour that the plate is going to be anodized in?
Update:
The Matias order is in, and they will be shipping the order so I can promptly lose the majority of the space in my living room.
The laser cutter got the final quote to me and is manufacturing a sample to make sure everything looks good before they go all in on production.
I will also be ordering shipping supplies tonight such as boxes.I don't think I've seen it anywhere in the thread but is there a photo of the colour that the plate is going to be anodized in?
There is no photo, because the powder coating place I will be using is too mom and pop for 'samples' and a 'nice website'. All I can tell you now is that it will (hopefully) be metallic blue which is darker than the metallic blue offered on the usual array of poker cases. That is the vision.
What happened to the 3 week PayPal money steal?
Blue knocked over a 7/11 so we can get our Alps sooner.
One more thing. There is a 2 week delay on the switches, since we actually ordered more than the current stock at Matias. They need a lead time so they can get some piping fresh ones to send.What happened to the 3 week PayPal money steal?
That was announced on the 10th, so it has been 18 days since then. The moneysteal wasn't a complete lock down, rather it was that each payment since the date in question would have the delay applied to it. So not all of it is in yet, but there is enough for me to keep things rolling. I also purposely staggered the purchases so there would not be a problem, and the schedule would be maintained.Blue knocked over a 7/11 so we can get our Alps sooner.
Snitches get stitches, you better watch those loose lips of yours.
One more thing. There is a 2 week delay on the switches, since we actually ordered more than the current stock at Matias. They need a lead time so they can get some piping fresh ones to send.What happened to the 3 week PayPal money steal?
That was announced on the 10th, so it has been 18 days since then. The moneysteal wasn't a complete lock down, rather it was that each payment since the date in question would have the delay applied to it. So not all of it is in yet, but there is enough for me to keep things rolling. I also purposely staggered the purchases so there would not be a problem, and the schedule would be maintained.Blue knocked over a 7/11 so we can get our Alps sooner.
Snitches get stitches, you better watch those loose lips of yours.
How many switches did Matias have? We only ordered nearly 10k switches... They should have that many on hand!
10k switches are aprox 100 boards its not that much :)
sorry this is probably a dumb question:
it looks like there is a spot on Matias switches for an LED, would the PCB from this GB support in switch LEDs?
If anyone has an alps locking switch, it would be great free, but I could pay as well.
If anyone has an alps locking switch, it would be great free, but I could pay as well.
I have one that I don't care to send, but you'd have to cover shipping, not sure how much it would be since i'm in KY -US.
If anyone has an alps locking switch, it would be great free, but I could pay as well.
I have one that I don't care to send, but you'd have to cover shipping, not sure how much it would be since i'm in KY -US.
Couldn't be that much if it went in a bubble letter thing.
Thanks, I'll pm you.
If anyone has an alps locking switch, it would be great free, but I could pay as well.
I have one that I don't care to send, but you'd have to cover shipping, not sure how much it would be since i'm in KY -US.
Couldn't be that much if it went in a bubble letter thing.
Thanks, I'll pm you.
Whats the locking switch gonna be for? Alps64? I have one on the caps lock and I might get another for a function layer.
Bit early for that :eek:Just asking. I missed the first round so I wonder if there will ever be a second round.
The GB is running pretty smoothly, let's wait till we're done before complicating things!
Blue: what was the breakdown for plates? I'm curious how popular the AEK layout really is. I have an idea in my head that most people want a normal ANSI layout but maybe I will be surprised.
And to preempt the inevitable questioning... No news to report. The army to conquer Rome didn't cross the Alps in a day.
To conquer, as in set to conquer without having attempted it yet. Perhaps there was some confusion due to the language barrier between English and Canafrenchlish.And to preempt the inevitable questioning... No news to report. The army to conquer Rome didn't cross the Alps in a day.
Soooo... Elephants conquered Rome?
To conquer, as in set to conquer without having attempted it yet. Perhaps there was some confusion due to the language barrier between English and Canafrenchlish.And to preempt the inevitable questioning... No news to report. The army to conquer Rome didn't cross the Alps in a day.
Soooo... Elephants conquered Rome?
Is anyone interested in running a GB for blank pbt alps caps? Is this even possible at the moment -- SP does Alps DS but does anyone know if they can do PBT?
Is anyone interested in running a GB for blank pbt alps caps? Is this even possible at the moment -- SP does Alps DS but does anyone know if they can do PBT?Matias is supposedly working on PBT Alps tooling as we speak. I haven't been closely following the discussion because I'm not a big PBT fan but there was news of a recent survey trip to the facility in China and I think Matias said things are progressing slightly behind schedule but looks good so far.
Yeah, a number of pages back, here's the plate imageShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/kZWSmPo.png)
Is anyone interested in running a GB for blank pbt alps caps? Is this even possible at the moment -- SP does Alps DS but does anyone know if they can do PBT?Matias is supposedly working on PBT Alps tooling as we speak. I haven't been closely following the discussion because I'm not a big PBT fan but there was news of a recent survey trip to the facility in China and I think Matias said things are progressing slightly behind schedule but looks good so far.
Can anyone fill in the blanks here?
I'm sorta regretting not getting the blue powder coat now.
I'm sorta regretting not getting the blue powder coat now.
Is anyone interested in running a GB for blank pbt alps caps? Is this even possible at the moment -- SP does Alps DS but does anyone know if they can do PBT?Matias is supposedly working on PBT Alps tooling as we speak. I haven't been closely following the discussion because I'm not a big PBT fan but there was news of a recent survey trip to the facility in China and I think Matias said things are progressing slightly behind schedule but looks good so far.
Can anyone fill in the blanks here?
Unless you are building a sexy HHKB :cool:I'm sorta regretting not getting the blue powder coat now.
You won't notice it once you have keycaps on, not to worry.
I'm sorta regretting not getting the blue powder coat now.
Turn that frown upside down! You can always paint it yourself with some metalcast blue anodized paint! It works really well actually, in most cases. Passing that, you can go to a powder coating place and get it coated any color you want! THINK OF THE POSSIBILITIES!
EDIT: as an exampleShow Image(http://deskthority.net/w/images/thumb/4/4d/IMG_1939.JPG/800px-IMG_1939.JPG)
Turn that frown upside down! You can always paint it yourself with some metalcast blue anodized paint! It works really well actually, in most cases. Passing that, you can go to a powder coating place and get it coated any color you want! THINK OF THE POSSIBILITIES!
EDIT: as an example
Turn that frown upside down! You can always paint it yourself with some metalcast blue anodized paint! It works really well actually, in most cases. Passing that, you can go to a powder coating place and get it coated any color you want! THINK OF THE POSSIBILITIES!
EDIT: as an example
Look at those switches, the subtle blue sliders, the tasteful tactile feel of it. Oh my god. It even has awatermarkblue plate.
Any chance that someone here has an ANSI spare plate that I can buy?
When does another round of these type of group buys usually occur? I am really regretting not getting in on this one. :(
I'm very interested if anyone wants to sell an ANSI pcb.
not sure on arrival date yet
Updates!
Plates - due to be complete by Nov. 23
PCBs - In the mail from Hasu, not sure on arrival date yet
Switches/Stabs - Scheduled delivery Nov. 16
Time to get excited.
not sure on arrival date yet
god seriously this is just the worst group buy ever
not sure on arrival date yet
god seriously this is just the worst group buy ever
With such little complaining in the damn thread it just doesn't feel like a real GB :mad:
Updates!
Plates - due to be complete by Nov. 23
PCBs - In the mail from Hasu, not sure on arrival date yet
Switches/Stabs - Scheduled delivery Nov. 16
Time to get excited.
Alps people don't complain much because we are used to getting shafted.not sure on arrival date yet
god seriously this is just the worst group buy ever
With such little complaining in the damn thread it just doesn't feel like a real GB :mad:
Alps people don't complain much because we are used to getting shafted.It's sad but true.
Alps people don't complain much because we are used to getting shafted.It's sad but true.
Funny, looks like the cases I ordered before this buy even began will arrive AFTER the parts from this buy do.
Thanks on the timing blue, (probably)sending me alps guts before I even have a case to put them in. Pfft!
Alps people don't complain much because we are used to getting shafted.It's sad but true.
Funny, looks like the cases I ordered before this buy even began will arrive AFTER the parts from this buy do.
Thanks on the timing blue, (probably)sending me alps guts before I even have a case to put them in. Pfft!
As a relatively new person to mechs and Alps, how exactly has Alps been shafted in the past? I recall a failed keyset GB but that might just be a false memory.
I don't think Alps has been shafted in the past, it just suffers from slightly lower popularity. You can't make it more popular without pushing something through to make it salient and gain the much needed attention of the community. I was aware of this when I was planning, and that is why I spent so much time early on with the little stupid things that get people excited about the project like photoshop propaganda, artisan giveaways, and so many options that you can't not want at least something. I've talked to CPT about writing up an article for Tactile about the process and pitfalls of making something from left field like this happen. Hopefully it will be useful information for the future of all GB's here.
But why did I go to all this effort? Simple. I decided I wanted to do it. Unfortunately, I can't expand on my reasons yet because my secret plans have yet to come to fruition. Needless to say, I think everyone will get a kick out of the Shamalayan-esque twist I have planned.
I don't think Alps has been shafted in the past, it just suffers from slightly lower popularity. You can't make it more popular without pushing something through to make it salient and gain the much needed attention of the community. I was aware of this when I was planning, and that is why I spent so much time early on with the little stupid things that get people excited about the project like photoshop propaganda, artisan giveaways, and so many options that you can't not want at least something. I've talked to CPT about writing up an article for Tactile about the process and pitfalls of making something from left field like this happen. Hopefully it will be useful information for the future of all GB's here.
But why did I go to all this effort? Simple. I decided I wanted to do it. Unfortunately, I can't expand on my reasons yet because my secret plans have yet to come to fruition. Needless to say, I think everyone will get a kick out of the Shamalayan-esque twist I have planned.
PCBs are just shipped to BlueNalgene with EMS, it will take 4 days accroding to Japan Post estimate.
As a relatively new person to mechs and Alps, how exactly has Alps been shafted in the past? I recall a failed keyset GB but that might just be a false memory.
I don't think Alps has been shafted in the past, it just suffers from slightly lower popularity. You can't make it more popular without pushing something through to make it salient and gain the much needed attention of the community. I was aware of this when I was planning, and that is why I spent so much time early on with the little stupid things that get people excited about the project like photoshop propaganda, artisan giveaways, and so many options that you can't not want at least something. I've talked to CPT about writing up an article for Tactile about the process and pitfalls of making something from left field like this happen. Hopefully it will be useful information for the future of all GB's here.
But why did I go to all this effort? Simple. I decided I wanted to do it. Unfortunately, I can't expand on my reasons yet because my secret plans have yet to come to fruition. Needless to say, I think everyone will get a kick out of the Shamalayan-esque twist I have planned.
Bluenalgene was demik all along?
PCBs are just shipped to BlueNalgene with EMS, it will take 4 days accroding to Japan Post estimate.Woot!
I don't think Alps has been shafted in the past, it just suffers from slightly lower popularity. You can't make it more popular without pushing something through to make it salient and gain the much needed attention of the community. I was aware of this when I was planning, and that is why I spent so much time early on with the little stupid things that get people excited about the project like photoshop propaganda, artisan giveaways, and so many options that you can't not want at least something. I've talked to CPT about writing up an article for Tactile about the process and pitfalls of making something from left field like this happen. Hopefully it will be useful information for the future of all GB's here.
But why did I go to all this effort? Simple. I decided I wanted to do it. Unfortunately, I can't expand on my reasons yet because my secret plans have yet to come to fruition. Needless to say, I think everyone will get a kick out of the Shamalayan-esque twist I have planned.
But why did I go to all this effort? Simple. I decided I wanted to do it. Unfortunately, I can't expand on my reasons yet because my secret plans have yet to come to fruition. Needless to say, I think everyone will get a kick out of the Shamalayan-esque twist I have planned.
I suddenly have 'will the keys fit'-itis.
I originally was going to use my AEK2 plate with original AEK2 caps, and my Dell Winkey-ANSI-don't-make-me-look-up-the-model-number plate with Alpine Winter, but then I realized the AEK2 boards were REALLY hard to get to Europe without taking up a second mortgage, and I don't even have a first mortage. So I ordered some Dolch caps through Massdrop.
So now the thought is to use AW on the AEK2 plate and the Dolch on the Dell plate, and then switch to my original scheme when I get to the US next. Then I can buy a keyboard, dissasemble it in a shady hotel room and take the good parts back home.
But will this work? And is it possible that I've asked before and forgotten...? I'm slightly overworked...
Don't worry. Standard Dell ANSI will work with the Tai Hao caps from Massdrop (Dolch/Olivetti/WoB). And the Alpine Winter base kit will work on your AEKII board.Thanks, now I can relax and wait with no patience ;)
I'm actually typing on Tai Hao Dolch right now on my Filco Zero. They're pretty nice caps.
I don't think Alps has been shafted in the past, it just suffers from slightly lower popularity. You can't make it more popular without pushing something through to make it salient and gain the much needed attention of the community. I was aware of this when I was planning, and that is why I spent so much time early on with the little stupid things that get people excited about the project like photoshop propaganda, artisan giveaways, and so many options that you can't not want at least something. I've talked to CPT about writing up an article for Tactile about the process and pitfalls of making something from left field like this happen. Hopefully it will be useful information for the future of all GB's here.
But why did I go to all this effort? Simple. I decided I wanted to do it. Unfortunately, I can't expand on my reasons yet because my secret plans have yet to come to fruition. Needless to say, I think everyone will get a kick out of the Shamalayan-esque twist I have planned.
As a relatively new person to mechs and Alps, how exactly has Alps been shafted in the past? I recall a failed keyset GB but that might just be a false memory.
I just meant we're always forgotten about. There was a failed PMK buy for a full Alps set, it was actually designed by Badwrench. I got my first Alps boards after the fact, just in time to catch the interest check for his modifiers.
What happened to that gb? Not enough community support? PMK's fault? did the sets ever ship?
I ordered a HHKB plate that I could let go to you if you have use for it and are interested. I just ordered it for the opportunity, don't have any current project planned for it. Better that it gets used for something good :) Not sure how it would work transferring the order or if it's to late. Already paid for shipping to Europe...Any chance that someone here has an ANSI spare plate that I can buy?i would if somebody has a HHKB plate that I could buy! :D
I ordered a HHKB plate that I could let go to you if you have use for it and are interested. I just ordered it for the opportunity, don't have any current project planned for it. Better that it gets used for something good :) Not sure how it would work transferring the order or if it's to late. Already paid for shipping to Europe...Any chance that someone here has an ANSI spare plate that I can buy?i would if somebody has a HHKB plate that I could buy! :D
I ordered a HHKB plate that I could let go to you if you have use for it and are interested. I just ordered it for the opportunity, don't have any current project planned for it. Better that it gets used for something good :) Not sure how it would work transferring the order or if it's to late. Already paid for shipping to Europe...
Is there any left? Which layout in specific? AT101, AT101W, or AEKII ANSI?I ordered a HHKB plate that I could let go to you if you have use for it and are interested. I just ordered it for the opportunity, don't have any current project planned for it. Better that it gets used for something good :) Not sure how it would work transferring the order or if it's to late. Already paid for shipping to Europe...Any chance that someone here has an ANSI spare plate that I can buy?i would if somebody has a HHKB plate that I could buy! :D
I'll pm Blue and see what can be done :D
ctm, still need an ansi plate?
Is there any left? Which layout in specific? AT101, AT101W, or AEKII ANSI?I ordered a HHKB plate that I could let go to you if you have use for it and are interested. I just ordered it for the opportunity, don't have any current project planned for it. Better that it gets used for something good :) Not sure how it would work transferring the order or if it's to late. Already paid for shipping to Europe...Any chance that someone here has an ANSI spare plate that I can buy?i would if somebody has a HHKB plate that I could buy! :D
I'll pm Blue and see what can be done :D
ctm, still need an ansi plate?
Great. I would like to get this plate if it becomes available.Is there any left? Which layout in specific? AT101, AT101W, or AEKII ANSI?I ordered a HHKB plate that I could let go to you if you have use for it and are interested. I just ordered it for the opportunity, don't have any current project planned for it. Better that it gets used for something good :) Not sure how it would work transferring the order or if it's to late. Already paid for shipping to Europe...Any chance that someone here has an ANSI spare plate that I can buy?i would if somebody has a HHKB plate that I could buy! :D
I'll pm Blue and see what can be done :D
ctm, still need an ansi plate?
I can transfer my AT101W plate with a non-stepped caps lock. I can send you a pm when I hear back from Applet.
Great. I would like to get this plate if it becomes available.
Well, time to think about cases. What's everyone getting? I'm out of money, so I'm buying plastic cases from Ali Express, but I've been thinking about getting some custom wood cases made by Ianis once I'm flush again.
Well, time to think about cases. What's everyone getting? I'm out of money, so I'm buying plastic cases from Ali Express, but I've been thinking about getting some custom wood cases made by Ianis once I'm flush again.
Well, time to think about cases. What's everyone getting? I'm out of money, so I'm buying plastic cases from Ali Express, but I've been thinking about getting some custom wood cases made by Ianis once I'm flush again.
Since the GH60s still haven't shipped here in the US, I have plenty of 60% alu cases for my Alps 60% projects.
Hammer... treble318... imsto... TEX... Pure CNC... Vortex...
Some of them I have multiples of. I have too many 60% cases. :P
I'm already short on 60% cases. I've looked into a couple of ideas for making my own out of aluminum, but they never took off.
Eventually I'm going to make a wooden one.
Well, time to think about cases. What's everyone getting? I'm out of money, so I'm buying plastic cases from Ali Express, but I've been thinking about getting some custom wood cases made by Ianis once I'm flush again.
Since the GH60s still haven't shipped here in the US, I have plenty of 60% alu cases for my Alps 60% projects.
Hammer... treble318... imsto... TEX... Pure CNC... Vortex...
Some of them I have multiples of. I have too many 60% cases. :P
Slide a Hammer this way. That case is gorgeous; it got me like :-* :-* :-*
Well, time to think about cases. What's everyone getting? I'm out of money, so I'm buying plastic cases from Ali Express, but I've been thinking about getting some custom wood cases made by Ianis once I'm flush again.
Since the GH60s still haven't shipped here in the US, I have plenty of 60% alu cases for my Alps 60% projects.
Hammer... treble318... imsto... TEX... Pure CNC... Vortex...
Some of them I have multiples of. I have too many 60% cases. :P
Slide a Hammer this way. That case is gorgeous; it got me like :-* :-* :-*
+1 For real :)
I'm going to do a first test making wood cases on a cnc this week, may sell some, but will definitely share the results.
I'm going to do a first test making wood cases on a cnc this week, may sell some, but will definitely share the results.
I'm looking for a wood case with the HHKB layout, if you manage to have success drop me a PM!
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/LIJvzlM.jpg)
Model M for scale.
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/LIJvzlM.jpg)
Model M for scale.
I like your cat.
Also, woo!
//edit: wait... Matias is Canadian?
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/LIJvzlM.jpg)
Model M for scale.
I like your cat.
Also, woo!
//edit: wait... Matias is Canadian?
The Canadian province of China.
That's a lot of switches.
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/LIJvzlM.jpg)
Model M for scale.
I have way to many projects going on right now, and am looking for someone to take over my spot here if possible. I have:
Assembled PCB, Infinity plate, Quiet Clicks, and a Stab set. PM me if interested.
Once a week is a pittance. Carry on, trees.
Once a week is a pittance. Carry on, trees.
Once a week is a pittance. Carry on, trees.
That's fine from our perspective too, if that was in question. :thumb:
Once a week is a pittance. Carry on, trees.Once a week is a pittance. Carry on, trees.
That's fine from our perspective too, if that was in question. :thumb:
Was kinda looking for approval form both, lol. Thanks guys.
Sooooo You have switches and I'm pretty sure the PCBs are in.... Should I start holding my breath?
How far along is the plate fabrication?
Updates!
Plates - due to be complete by Nov. 23
PCBs - In the mail from Hasu, not sure on arrival date yet
Switches/Stabs - Scheduled delivery Nov. 16
Time to get excited.
How far along is the plate fabrication?Updates!
Plates - due to be complete by Nov. 23
PCBs - In the mail from Hasu, not sure on arrival date yet
Switches/Stabs - Scheduled delivery Nov. 16
Time to get excited.
How far along is the plate fabrication?Updates!
Plates - due to be complete by Nov. 23
PCBs - In the mail from Hasu, not sure on arrival date yet
Switches/Stabs - Scheduled delivery Nov. 16
Time to get excited.
I even read that when it was posted... I'm forgetful.
What was I saying?
Thanks :p
How far along is the plate fabrication?Updates!
Plates - due to be complete by Nov. 23
PCBs - In the mail from Hasu, not sure on arrival date yet
Switches/Stabs - Scheduled delivery Nov. 16
Time to get excited.
I even read that when it was posted... I'm forgetful.
What was I saying?
Thanks :p
But why male models?
Sooooo You have switches and I'm pretty sure the PCBs are in.... Should I start holding my breath?
PCBs are in the US, but I don't have them yet.
Will the plates arrive with the powder coating complete? I'd love to see a pic :D
How far along is the plate fabrication?Updates!
Plates - due to be complete by Nov. 23
PCBs - In the mail from Hasu, not sure on arrival date yet
Switches/Stabs - Scheduled delivery Nov. 16
Time to get excited.
You can ask the post office to pick up the packages. Might cost a bit, but will be much easier.
Double post:
I have had three people message me asking about sending out their orders soon. I am going to send things out as soon as the boxes are full, so if you only have switches, it will be ready to go in the near future. This is primarily because my tiny sports car won't allow me to take too many orders to the post office per trip.
However, I spent 12 hours in lab each of the past two days. So by the time I get home, eat, do necessary things, etc., I'm pretty much spent. I don't expect today to be any different. I know that everyone is super excited about the things, and I swear I'm on it, but please be patient. I will have time this weekend for luxuries like sleep and group buys.
This is primarily because my tiny sports car won't allow me to take too many orders to the post office per trip.
my tiny sports car
I know there are a lot of Alpine Winter buyers watching this thread, and I would just like to reassure all of you that just like every responsible GB leader, I drive a crossover with lots of cargo space.
I know there are a lot of Alpine Winter buyers watching this thread, and I would just like to reassure all of you that just like every responsible GB leader, I drive a crossover with lots of cargo space.
I know there are a lot of Alpine Winter buyers watching this thread, and I would just like to reassure all of you that just like every responsible GB leader, I drive a crossover with lots of cargo space.
As long as it's not the ugly AF Honda Crosstour.
I know there are a lot of Alpine Winter buyers watching this thread, and I would just like to reassure all of you that just like every responsible GB leader, I drive a crossover with lots of cargo space.
As long as it's not the ugly AF Honda Crosstour.
+1 abomination
I know there are a lot of Alpine Winter buyers watching this thread, and I would just like to reassure all of you that just like every responsible GB leader, I drive a crossover with lots of cargo space.
As long as it's not the ugly AF Honda Crosstour.
+1 abomination
Truly this generation's Aztek.
Hahahaha.
At least show us the car now, Blue. You owe us that much.
MoreI know there are a lot of Alpine Winter buyers watching this thread, and I would just like to reassure all of you that just like every responsible GB leader, I drive a crossover with lots of cargo space.
As long as it's not the ugly AF Honda Crosstour.
+1 abomination
Truly this generation's Aztek.
can't even pitch a tent in it tho wtf
Ugh, I knew I should have just said "two-door".
I'd like to say my car gets more **** than njbair's but it's hard to bone in these leather bucket seats.
I'm sure he needs the space in the crossover anyway. With the 2.5 kids, yoga mats, shopping bags, and family dog, it is difficult to still have enough room for his waning manhood.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/73uW4.gif)
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/LIJvzlM.jpg)
Model M for scale.
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/1w9MqXW.jpg)
PCBs are here! And they came in an adorable little wooden crate.
Its coming together nicely!
Its coming together nicely!
What is? My plan for world domination? Yes! YESSSSSS! BWAHAHAHAHAHA!!!
Oh wait, you were talking about this group buy I bet.
I only regret not buying more of the stuffs.
I only regret not buying more of the stuffs.
Its coming together nicely!
What is? My plan for world domination? Yes! YESSSSSS! BWAHAHAHAHAHA!!!
Oh wait, you were talking about this group buy I bet.
I only regret not buying more of the stuffs.
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/1w9MqXW.jpg)
PCBs are here! And they came in an adorable little wooden crate.
Agh! I wish I knew about this when the buy was going on!
Just seeing that box of PCBs and diodes brings me back to my first hasu alps64 build.Show Image(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/440/19335195338_36ece31f45_k.jpg)
Custom Alps 60% Keyboard (https://flic.kr/p/vszVWS) by Nick Bair (https://www.flickr.com/photos/njbair/), on Flickr
Just seeing that box of PCBs and diodes brings me back to my first hasu alps64 build.Old pic, I do hope you retrobrighted since then.Show Image(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/440/19335195338_36ece31f45_k.jpg)
Custom Alps 60% Keyboard (https://flic.kr/p/vszVWS) by Nick Bair (https://www.flickr.com/photos/njbair/), on Flickr
I've never gotten around to buying the stuff to do retrobright. But I just picked up a Northgate board that is seriously yellowed so maybe it's time I give it a go...
Well, the switches in the Northgate are white... But someone came through for me in a big way with blue Alps.I've never gotten around to buying the stuff to do retrobright. But I just picked up a Northgate board that is seriously yellowed so maybe it's time I give it a go...
You got your blue Alps?
But someone came through for me in a big way with blue Alps.
But someone came through for me in a big way with blue Alps.
Ugh, so jelly. My unsuccessful blue alps search continues.
There's no way you'll find a cheap blue alps board online from anyone but the unaware or supremely generous.
In my case it was the latter.There's no way you'll find a cheap blue alps board online from anyone but the unaware or supremely generous.
Truer words have never been spoken.
Though, I missed a super obvious blue alps board on eBay a little while back. For all the specific searches I had been following, the listing I missed said "blue alps clicky keyboard"lol.
There's no way you'll find a cheap blue alps board online from anyone but the unaware or supremely generous.
I'm also curious to hear what njbair landed.
In my case it was the latter.There's no way you'll find a cheap blue alps board online from anyone but the unaware or supremely generous.
Truer words have never been spoken.
I sorted caps tonight. All 9600 are in the bags where they need to go.That's a great pic of you, BlueNalgene, but who's the guy on the right pretending to do lines?
Just look at that primo product.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/inng0F2.jpg)
You know, they say you aren't supposed to get high on your own supply, but sometimes you need a little something to keep the buzz going.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Nzn9mWr.jpg)
The next step is putting boxes together and making labels. Also, I need to select the winners of the artisan cap giveaway.
I sorted caps tonight. All 9600 are in the bags where they need to go.That's a great pic of you, BlueNalgene, but who's the guy on the right pretending to do lines?
Just look at that primo product.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/inng0F2.jpg)
You know, they say you aren't supposed to get high on your own supply, but sometimes you need a little something to keep the buzz going.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Nzn9mWr.jpg)
The next step is putting boxes together and making labels. Also, I need to select the winners of the artisan cap giveaway.
I sorted caps tonight. All 9600 are in the bags where they need to go.
Just look at that primo product.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/inng0F2.jpg)
You know, they say you aren't supposed to get high on your own supply, but sometimes you need a little something to keep the buzz going.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Nzn9mWr.jpg)
The next step is putting boxes together and making labels. Also, I need to select the winners of the artisan cap giveaway.
I sorted caps tonight. All 9600 are in the bags where they need to go.
Just look at that primo product.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/inng0F2.jpg)
You know, they say you aren't supposed to get high on your own supply, but sometimes you need a little something to keep the buzz going.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Nzn9mWr.jpg)
The next step is putting boxes together and making labels. Also, I need to select the winners of the artisan cap giveaway.
I sorted caps tonight. All 9600 are in the bags where they need to go.
Just look at that primo product.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/inng0F2.jpg)
You know, they say you aren't supposed to get high on your own supply, but sometimes you need a little something to keep the buzz going.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Nzn9mWr.jpg)
The next step is putting boxes together and making labels. Also, I need to select the winners of the artisan cap giveaway.
Now to find some switches for those "caps"
Would anyone be interested in swapping a HHKB Layout for an Infinity hacker style one?Bump? :(
I wanted to have HHKB style wooden case made but apparently that would be too expensive because of the bottom row coverings :( Such a bummer.
Who said it was still only "3" "Elephants"?Given the amount of detail put into the Hannibal theme, like naming the caps after his family name, I will be *extremely* disappointed if there's not 37 elephants; one cap for each elephant that Hannibal crossed the Alps with.
Who said it was still only "3" "Elephants"?Given the amount of detail put into the Hannibal theme, like naming the caps after his family name, I will be *extremely* disappointed if there's not 37 elephants; one cap for each elephant that Hannibal crossed the Alps with.
P.S.
I've taken Sed8op8 order, which you probably already know from her PM.. so, this P.S. is kinda redundant..
P.S. Welcome to the buy!Thanks, I've lurked GK for a long time, I finally signed up because of this GB :cool:
Oh how I wish I could have made all 37.Well that kinda ruins it for me, the authenticity is lost.. not sure if I even want in this GB any more, I'm so confused :'(
should fit for either. i think they both have the same keycap spacings, so you should be goldenP.S. Welcome to the buy!Thanks, I've lurked GK for a long time, I finally signed up because of this GB :cool:
At your leisure, which plate did Sed8op8, and by proxy I, get? When she said Dell, I assumed AT101W, but since there's also AT101 and AT102W.. it's all so confusing for a nub :'(
should fit for either. i think they both have the same keycap spacings, so you should be goldenP.S. Welcome to the buy!Thanks, I've lurked GK for a long time, I finally signed up because of this GB :cool:
At your leisure, which plate did Sed8op8, and by proxy I, get? When she said Dell, I assumed AT101W, but since there's also AT101 and AT102W.. it's all so confusing for a nub :'(
Cap winners soon? :thumb:Don't give in, Blue. Leave it a surprise! #SurpriseAlpsGBArtisanRaffleResults2015
Cap winners soon? :thumb:Don't give in, Blue. Leave it a surprise! #SurpriseAlpsGBArtisanRaffleResults2015
Cap winners soon? :thumb:Don't give in, Blue. Leave it a surprise! #SurpriseAlpsGBArtisanRaffleResults2015
Yah I think a surprise inside the box is the best way too :DBlueNalgene was afraid, with good reason, people might think they're a peanut and toss them with the rest of the packaging.
Yah I think a surprise inside the box is the best way too :DBlueNalgene was afraid, with good reason, people might think they're a peanut and toss them with the rest of the packaging.
A solution to that is putting a note you see when you open the box that says "YOU A WINNER, HAHAHA!!!."
"Ugh, getting all the mail parts organized is something I was not prepared for. It is taking me forever to sanitize the order data. Why did I let you guys make so many order changes and stabilizer add-ons? I'm too nice."
the last one I will give to someone when the mood takes me.
[...]Three of these will go to people instrumental in helping me organize this GB - hasu, JDCarpe, and njbair. I know it isn't much and not everyone is interested in artisans, but it is a gesture of thanks by creating something special and unique for those people to do with as they see fit.[...]
well... not the first time i've been very, very wrong :))should fit for either. i think they both have the same keycap spacings, so you should be goldenP.S. Welcome to the buy!Thanks, I've lurked GK for a long time, I finally signed up because of this GB :cool:
At your leisure, which plate did Sed8op8, and by proxy I, get? When she said Dell, I assumed AT101W, but since there's also AT101 and AT102W.. it's all so confusing for a nub :'(
At101w is standard
At101 has non standard bottom row
At102w is iso
Y'all need to quit thanking me so early. I still have plenty of time to royally **** up. ;)I have faith in you! :thumb:
Y'all need to quit thanking me so early. I still have plenty of time to royally **** up. ;)
The plates are cut. I'm not sure when I will be able to pick them up though, the Thanksgiving holiday may mean I have to wait until Monday depending on their hours.
Y'all need to quit thanking me so early. I still have plenty of time to royally **** up. ;)
The plates are cut. I'm not sure when I will be able to pick them up though, the Thanksgiving holiday may mean I have to wait until Monday depending on their hours.
Y'all need to quit thanking me so early. I still have plenty of time to royally **** up. ;)
The plates are cut. I'm not sure when I will be able to pick them up though, the Thanksgiving holiday may mean I have to wait until Monday depending on their hours.
I didn't even buy a plate..... GIVE ME MY SWITCHES!!!!
:p enjoy the holiday, we all have so much to be thankful for, not the least this fun gb.
Y'all need to quit thanking me so early. I still have plenty of time to royally **** up. ;)
The plates are cut. I'm not sure when I will be able to pick them up though, the Thanksgiving holiday may mean I have to wait until Monday depending on their hours.
Y'all need to quit thanking me so early. I still have plenty of time to royally **** up. ;)
The plates are cut. I'm not sure when I will be able to pick them up though, the Thanksgiving holiday may mean I have to wait until Monday depending on their hours.
It always starts with "just" a weekend long delay... :rolleyes:
Y'all need to quit thanking me so early. I still have plenty of time to royally **** up. ;)
The plates are cut. I'm not sure when I will be able to pick them up though, the Thanksgiving holiday may mean I have to wait until Monday depending on their hours.
It always starts with "just" a weekend long delay... :rolleyes:
Next we'll find out he's not even really a water bottle.
May I ask what sort of trinkets to expect from the whole switch payment thing?
Also, go Blue!
May I ask what sort of trinkets to expect from the whole switch payment thing?
Also, go Blue!
As of right now, there are two things. I have a quote out for stickers to be printed based on the logo in the OP of this thread. My usual guy has a 30 day lead time, so I have requested a quote from someone new that tigersharkdude recommended. The other thing is a 3d printed alps/mx converter I designed. They have been made before: see here (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=69031.0) and here (http://deskthority.net/workshop-f7/cherry-to-alps-adapters-t4934.html). I made my own with some minor differences such as a void in the alps end to save on cost, camfering on the alps end, and a modest base (smaller than nubbinators but actually there compared to MrInterface/Murium's). The status of the printing is: Shapeways is pissing me off today. Seriously, how can only a few of them have loose shells when they are arranged symmetrically. Bull****.
Since the extra switches used to fund these projects are not sold yet, I'm a bit nervous about doing too much else. Everything is currently out of pocket. That is why I planned to donate anything remaining.
edit:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/B5pduzO.png)
May I ask what sort of trinkets to expect from the whole switch payment thing?
Also, go Blue!
As of right now, there are two things. I have a quote out for stickers to be printed based on the logo in the OP of this thread. My usual guy has a 30 day lead time, so I have requested a quote from someone new that tigersharkdude recommended. The other thing is a 3d printed alps/mx converter I designed. They have been made before: see here (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=69031.0) and here (http://deskthority.net/workshop-f7/cherry-to-alps-adapters-t4934.html). I made my own with some minor differences such as a void in the alps end to save on cost, camfering on the alps end, and a modest base (smaller than nubbinators but actually there compared to MrInterface/Murium's). The status of the printing is: Shapeways is pissing me off today. Seriously, how can only a few of them have loose shells when they are arranged symmetrically. Bull****.
Since the extra switches used to fund these projects are not sold yet, I'm a bit nervous about doing too much else. Everything is currently out of pocket. That is why I planned to donate anything remaining.
edit:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/B5pduzO.png)
my vote is for the converters. they'd be great for artisans ;)
kind of regret not adding matias switches, which is an issue because i've already desoldered my aek ii... dang
kind of regret not adding matias switches, which is an issue because i've already desoldered my aek ii... dang
yeah, that's what im planning on doing but i kinda want to try the matias hahakind of regret not adding matias switches, which is an issue because i've already desoldered my aek ii... dang
Can't you just use the switches from your AEK II?
no haha. i just wanna know what they feel like and if i should even use them in my buildkind of regret not adding matias switches, which is an issue because i've already desoldered my aek ii... dang
i have enough matias for a 60%, want?
yeah, that's what im planning on doing but i kinda want to try the matias hahakind of regret not adding matias switches, which is an issue because i've already desoldered my aek ii... dang
Can't you just use the switches from your AEK II?no haha. i just wanna know what they feel like and if i should even use them in my buildkind of regret not adding matias switches, which is an issue because i've already desoldered my aek ii... dang
i have enough matias for a 60%, want?
If the Alps from your AEKII are in good condition, I'd say using Matias switches instead of them is a step down (or to the side at least). The dampened Alps are a bit more noisy than the Matias Silent Click though, if that matters.
yeah, that's what im planning on doing but i kinda want to try the matias hahakind of regret not adding matias switches, which is an issue because i've already desoldered my aek ii... dang
Can't you just use the switches from your AEK II?no haha. i just wanna know what they feel like and if i should even use them in my buildkind of regret not adding matias switches, which is an issue because i've already desoldered my aek ii... dang
i have enough matias for a 60%, want?
If the Alps from your AEKII are in good condition, I'd say using Matias switches instead of them is a step down (or to the side at least). The dampened Alps are a bit more noisy than the Matias Silent Click though, if that matters.
really? that's surprising to me, especially considering that everybody bags on cream damped alps. they're an excellent typing experience... i just thought that matias switches might feel better considering the lack of hype behind the aek ii and its switches. regardless, the cream damped are the switches i'm using anywayIf the Alps from your AEKII are in good condition, I'd say using Matias switches instead of them is a step down (or to the side at least). The dampened Alps are a bit more noisy than the Matias Silent Click though, if that matters.
Agreed. I put Matias Clicks on my round 2 board initially, but they just weren't as nice (to me) as the whites on my AEKII. I thought the Matias were too light and too scratchy. I was much happier with white Alps on it.
On the round 3 boards I am entertaining the idea of Matias linears for the mods though. I figure that since they aren't tactile, I'll like the feel compared to original Alps.
really? that's surprising to me, especially considering that everybody bags on cream damped alps. they're an excellent typing experience... i just thought that matias switches might feel better considering the lack of hype behind the aek ii and its switches. regardless, the cream damped are the switches i'm using anyway
really? that's surprising to me, especially considering that everybody bags on cream damped alps. they're an excellent typing experience... i just thought that matias switches might feel better considering the lack of hype behind the aek ii and its switches. regardless, the cream damped are the switches i'm using anyway
Oh no no no. I loathe damped cream alps. My AEKII at work is the ~1995 Mexican made model with whites. I've left that unmolested, but I picked up some other whites for my round 2 board.
haha, good thing i'm one of the people that prefers the cream damped. ah well. this made me significantly happier about choosing not to get matias switches. it was kind of a shame to take apart my aek ii because it was in such good condition, but i figured that i wasn't even going to use it because of it its size anyway, so repurposing into a 60% would make more sense.really? that's surprising to me, especially considering that everybody bags on cream damped alps. they're an excellent typing experience... i just thought that matias switches might feel better considering the lack of hype behind the aek ii and its switches. regardless, the cream damped are the switches i'm using anyway
Oh no no no. I loathe damped cream alps. My AEKII at work is the ~1995 Mexican made model with whites. I've left that unmolested, but I picked up some other whites for my round 2 board.
And I prefer the cream over the whites! I guess it's a personal preference thing :)
And I prefer the cream over the whites! I guess it's a personal preference thing :)
And I prefer the cream over the whites! I guess it's a personal preference thing :)
I'm messing around with dry lubes for Alps switches at home and the first one I tried was a teflon lubricant and it does some pretty neat things to creams and salmons (especially the salmons). After cleaning and lubricating the creams feel much, much better. I imagine many people who prefer the newer alps probably have used switches that have gotten dusty with age.
I have a few different molybdenum disulfide lubricants with different delivery mediums (primary use is firearms lubrication) that are coming next week so we'll see if those work better or worse with Alps.
And I prefer the cream over the whites! I guess it's a personal preference thing :)
I'm messing around with dry lubes for Alps switches at home and the first one I tried was a teflon lubricant and it does some pretty neat things to creams and salmons (especially the salmons). After cleaning and lubricating the creams feel much, much better. I imagine many people who prefer the newer alps probably have used switches that have gotten dusty with age.
I have a few different molybdenum disulfide lubricants with different delivery mediums (primary use is firearms lubrication) that are coming next week so we'll see if those work better or worse with Alps.
Cool! Any particular brand or type of that teflon lubricant I should look for if I wanna try?
And I prefer the cream over the whites! I guess it's a personal preference thing :)
I'm messing around with dry lubes for Alps switches at home and the first one I tried was a teflon lubricant and it does some pretty neat things to creams and salmons (especially the salmons). After cleaning and lubricating the creams feel much, much better. I imagine many people who prefer the newer alps probably have used switches that have gotten dusty with age.
I have a few different molybdenum disulfide lubricants with different delivery mediums (primary use is firearms lubrication) that are coming next week so we'll see if those work better or worse with Alps.
Cool! Any particular brand or type of that teflon lubricant I should look for if I wanna try?
The one I'm currently playing with is "DuPont Teflon Non-Stick Dry-Film Lubricant" I'm still messing with the best application method, but i think I'm going to get some needle-point applicators to help get it in the first spots. With the built in nozzle it basically just doused the entire upper housing in lubricant, which is effective, but messy. Definitely wear gloves and don't huff it.
I have one and I think it looks amazing. Someone on the forum here has a picture of their alps64 in one...jumped in on the drop. i totally forgot that somebody had posted that picture before haha
Nubbs praises Molly D as a great lubricant for Alps. I picked up a bottle of the stuff in powder form from an Etsy seller and it is pretty nice! Though, most of my boards feel nicer with just a quick puff of compressed air. None seem bad enough to require lubrication, as I've tested a lubed vs unlubed switch and, to me, I felt no perceivable difference. This coming from someone who does feel differences in lubed vs unlubed MX switches.
And I prefer the cream over the whites! I guess it's a personal preference thing :)
I'm messing around with dry lubes for Alps switches at home and the first one I tried was a teflon lubricant and it does some pretty neat things to creams and salmons (especially the salmons). After cleaning and lubricating the creams feel much, much better. I imagine many people who prefer the newer alps probably have used switches that have gotten dusty with age.
I have a few different molybdenum disulfide lubricants with different delivery mediums (primary use is firearms lubrication) that are coming next week so we'll see if those work better or worse with Alps.
Cool! Any particular brand or type of that teflon lubricant I should look for if I wanna try?
The one I'm currently playing with is "DuPont Teflon Non-Stick Dry-Film Lubricant" I'm still messing with the best application method, but i think I'm going to get some needle-point applicators to help get it in the first spots. With the built in nozzle it basically just doused the entire upper housing in lubricant, which is effective, but messy. Definitely wear gloves and don't huff it.
Nubbs praises Molly D as a great lubricant for Alps. I picked up a bottle of the stuff in powder form from an Etsy seller and it is pretty nice! Though, most of my boards feel nicer with just a quick puff of compressed air. None seem bad enough to require lubrication, as I've tested a lubed vs unlubed switch and, to me, I felt no perceivable difference. This coming from someone who does feel differences in lubed vs unlubed MX switches.
And I prefer the cream over the whites! I guess it's a personal preference thing :)
I'm messing around with dry lubes for Alps switches at home and the first one I tried was a teflon lubricant and it does some pretty neat things to creams and salmons (especially the salmons). After cleaning and lubricating the creams feel much, much better. I imagine many people who prefer the newer alps probably have used switches that have gotten dusty with age.
I have a few different molybdenum disulfide lubricants with different delivery mediums (primary use is firearms lubrication) that are coming next week so we'll see if those work better or worse with Alps.
Cool! Any particular brand or type of that teflon lubricant I should look for if I wanna try?
The one I'm currently playing with is "DuPont Teflon Non-Stick Dry-Film Lubricant" I'm still messing with the best application method, but i think I'm going to get some needle-point applicators to help get it in the first spots. With the built in nozzle it basically just doused the entire upper housing in lubricant, which is effective, but messy. Definitely wear gloves and don't huff it.
Nubbs praises Molly D as a great lubricant for Alps. I picked up a bottle of the stuff in powder form from an Etsy seller and it is pretty nice! Though, most of my boards feel nicer with just a quick puff of compressed air. None seem bad enough to require lubrication, as I've tested a lubed vs unlubed switch and, to me, I felt no perceivable difference. This coming from someone who does feel differences in lubed vs unlubed MX switches.
Do you disassemble them then blow them out with air?
Nubbs praises Molly D as a great lubricant for Alps.could you link me?
Nubbs praises Molly D as a great lubricant for Alps.could you link me?
Nubbs praises Molly D as a great lubricant for Alps.could you link me?
Source, me. Molybdenum Disulfide is an awesome lube if, and a strong conditional here, you do not over lubricate. You just want a very very light dusting. Molybdenum Disulfide is actually used in some plastics to lube it and it's not uncommon for people to tumble bullets in it to make cleaning guns easier.
I highly recommend buying it here (https://www.etsy.com/listing/216913086/molybdenum-disulfide-2-ounces-15-micron?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=molybdenum%20disulfide&ref=sr_gallery_1). I got mine from there and it shipped ridiculously quick and was the best price I found anywhere.
Alps do seem to generally be smoother than MX though, so you won't notice a huge difference unless you have really awful messed up stems. A good cleaning and light lubing on dirty stems makes a world of difference.
I wouldn't recommend any kind of wet or grease lube for Alps since they have a more open housing.
thanks! do you happen to know if they'll affect cream damped? i know that jbondeson said something about them... were your cream alps dirty?Nubbs praises Molly D as a great lubricant for Alps.could you link me?
Source, me. Molybdenum Disulfide is an awesome lube if, and a strong conditional here, you do not over lubricate. You just want a very very light dusting. Molybdenum Disulfide is actually used in some plastics to lube it and it's not uncommon for people to tumble bullets in it to make cleaning guns easier.
I highly recommend buying it here (https://www.etsy.com/listing/216913086/molybdenum-disulfide-2-ounces-15-micron?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=molybdenum%20disulfide&ref=sr_gallery_1). I got mine from there and it shipped ridiculously quick and was the best price I found anywhere.
Alps do seem to generally be smoother than MX though, so you won't notice a huge difference unless you have really awful messed up stems. A good cleaning and light lubing on dirty stems makes a world of difference.
I wouldn't recommend any kind of wet or grease lube for Alps since they have a more open housing.
I highly recommend buying it here (https://www.etsy.com/listing/216913086/molybdenum-disulfide-2-ounces-15-micron?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=molybdenum%20disulfide&ref=sr_gallery_1). I got mine from there and it shipped ridiculously quick and was the best price I found anywhere.
Alps do seem to generally be smoother than MX though, so you won't notice a huge difference unless you have really awful messed up stems. A good cleaning and light lubing on dirty stems makes a world of difference.
I wouldn't recommend any kind of wet or grease lube for Alps since they have a more open housing.
And I prefer the cream over the whites! I guess it's a personal preference thing :)
I'm messing around with dry lubes for Alps switches at home and the first one I tried was a teflon lubricant and it does some pretty neat things to creams and salmons (especially the salmons). After cleaning and lubricating the creams feel much, much better. I imagine many people who prefer the newer alps probably have used switches that have gotten dusty with age.
I have a few different molybdenum disulfide lubricants with different delivery mediums (primary use is firearms lubrication) that are coming next week so we'll see if those work better or worse with Alps.
And I prefer the cream over the whites! I guess it's a personal preference thing :)
I'm messing around with dry lubes for Alps switches at home and the first one I tried was a teflon lubricant and it does some pretty neat things to creams and salmons (especially the salmons). After cleaning and lubricating the creams feel much, much better. I imagine many people who prefer the newer alps probably have used switches that have gotten dusty with age.
I have a few different molybdenum disulfide lubricants with different delivery mediums (primary use is firearms lubrication) that are coming next week so we'll see if those work better or worse with Alps.
Cool! Any particular brand or type of that teflon lubricant I should look for if I wanna try?
The one I'm currently playing with is "DuPont Teflon Non-Stick Dry-Film Lubricant" I'm still messing with the best application method, but i think I'm going to get some needle-point applicators to help get it in the first spots. With the built in nozzle it basically just doused the entire upper housing in lubricant, which is effective, but messy. Definitely wear gloves and don't huff it.
Hey, I just have a question...
I ordered this thing with the stabs, but I remember seeing somewhere that the infiniti plate will not exactly work with the stabs on offer. Anyone with any idea on how do I fix/workaround this?
Just totaled up what I spent on this...
Probably really inexpensive for a custom, but not for me :P
Just totaled up what I spent on this...
Probably really inexpensive for a custom, but not for me :P
Never tell me the price!
Just totaled up what I spent on this...
Probably really inexpensive for a custom, but not for me :P
Never tell me the price!
Now I'm tempted to!
Still need a nice z-case or something though, cheap abs case will not cut it.
I don't know anything about that machine but it's certainly possible in the general sense to mill your own case. I might be trying this to make a couple of simple TEX-style aluminum cases using borrowed time on my former employer's CNC machines. I believe I can source some 1x5x12 6061-T6 bar stock for about $30/ea.Just totaled up what I spent on this...
Probably really inexpensive for a custom, but not for me
Never tell me the price!
Now I'm tempted to!
Still need a nice z-case or something though, cheap abs case will not cut it.
Anyone know the feasibility of milling your own 60% case? I have an x-carve with a 0.8kw spindle on the way and I guess it would be cool if that was possible :D
I was considering making my own case out of wood, but I decided against it since I have 0 experience in these sorts of thing.
I'm sure most of you know, but the TEX Acrylic 60% is on Massdrop for $60 (https://www.massdrop.com/buy/tex-acrylic-cnc-keyboard-case). That's what I'm using for this build :cool:
I believe I read that Matias sells stabs that work on the Dell (and possibly other) layouts. Someone on IRC had mention buying several sets and possibly getting a discount. Potential sub-GB for stabs??
The last detail I need to figure out, for now at least, is dampening. Sorry if it's been mentioned in this thread and I glossed over it :-[ Can we use the same o-rings as we do for Cherry? Or does it depend on your keycaps? I've gone for Tai-Hao if that makes any difference.
Thanks friends :thumb:
The matias stab buy was by, of course, Blue, has gone and went, and will be shipped out w/ this gb.Ruh-roh, just checked Matias's website and I see switches for sale, but no stabs; same thing on mechanicalkeyboards.com. Oh well, worst case scenario is I have to order 5,10,20 however many sets and wait for Round 3 to sell the extras. I'll wait patiently to see if anyone has extras or knows how to get stabs, and if nada I'll contact Matias.
The matias stab buy was by, of course, Blue, has gone and went, and will be shipped out w/ this gb.Ruh-roh, just checked Matias's website and I see switches for sale, but no stabs; same thing on mechanicalkeyboards.com. Oh well, worst case scenario is I have to order 5,10,20 however many sets and wait for Round 3 to sell the extras. I'll wait patiently to see if anyone has extras or knows how to get stabs, and if nada I'll contact Matias.
Ruh-roh, just checked Matias's website and I see switches for sale, but no stabs; same thing on mechanicalkeyboards.com. Oh well, worst case scenario is I have to order 5,10,20 however many sets and wait for Round 3 to sell the extras. I'll wait patiently to see if anyone has extras or knows how to get stabs, and if nada I'll contact Matias.
The matias stab buy was by, of course, Blue, has gone and went, and will be shipped out w/ this gb.
Somebody suggest what cool things to put on my layout, I'm already adding a safety mode so no one can type on my keyboard (dvorak).Blank caps
Also, don't let me down Blue, this must be here on or before Christmas so that I can put it under a tree and torture myself and eventually give in, tear it open and start soldering.
Somebody suggest what cool things to put on my layout, I'm already adding a safety mode so no one can type on my keyboard (dvorak).Blank caps
Also, don't let me down Blue, this must be here on or before Christmas so that I can put it under a tree and torture myself and eventually give in, tear it open and start soldering.
lol I misunderstood. Some cool firmware things I like are: dual role space/fn, dual role arrow keys on bottom right corner, dual role ctrl/esc at where caps lock usually is.Somebody suggest what cool things to put on my layout, I'm already adding a safety mode so no one can type on my keyboard (dvorak).Blank caps
Also, don't let me down Blue, this must be here on or before Christmas so that I can put it under a tree and torture myself and eventually give in, tear it open and start soldering.
I meant in the firmware -_-
BlueNalgene,
Are the CAD files for the plates available? :-*
I'm asking for personal use, not to make millions of your designs. I'm happy to sign a NDA!
BlueNalgene,
Are the CAD files for the plates available? :-*
I'm asking for personal use, not to make millions of your designs. I'm happy to sign a NDA!
I recommend asking jdcarpe, as jdcarpe made and owns the rights to the plates.
I don't know anything about that machine but it's certainly possible in the general sense to mill your own case. I might be trying this to make a couple of simple TEX-style aluminum cases using borrowed time on my former employer's CNC machines. I believe I can source some 1x5x12 6061-T6 bar stock for about $30/ea.
i hope the tex acrylic case on massdrop (https://www.massdrop.com/buy/tex-acrylic-cnc-keyboard-case?mode=guest_open) reaches moq because i have no clue as to what other case i should use
i hope the tex acrylic case on massdrop (https://www.massdrop.com/buy/tex-acrylic-cnc-keyboard-case?mode=guest_open) reaches moq because i have no clue as to what other case i should useMechanicalkeyboards.com has it in stock for $69 shipped (https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=1410).
Updates:
Plates are cut, and switches fit in them.
I just got back from the powder coating place. I went with "signal blue" with a very light clear coat. The color seemed appropriately audacious without being too ugly. I wanted to go with a darker color, but the available options were a little blasé. The coating place took extra care to make sure all of the parts still fit in the holes with the added thickness. I only have had a chance to inspect one plate, but it looked good.
The sticker printer recommended by [person on GH] hasn't returned my requests for a quote. So that may not be happening. My usual sticker printer is backed up for the holidays.
The 3D printed parts are 'in production', and I expect will ship before the end of next week. The usual delivery date for the colored parts is 15 days from order, so the 10th?
I am still working long hours, so this is a terse update and I am stretched for time. I woke up at 4 am this morning with panic/insomnia and taped up some more boxes before going back to bed. I will be out of the country from the 11th until the 20(ish)th. That means my advisor is trying to squeeze as much work out of me before I leave as well. I am REALLY pushing to get all of this done before then. I can't really get through my living room to my door, and the assembled boxes and part bins are taking up literally 1/2 of my apartment. My girlfriend will be coming to live with me for a few weeks when I return, and I need to vacuum so she never finds out that I'm a gross male.
Updates:
Plates are cut, and switches fit in them.
I just got back from the powder coating place. I went with "signal blue" with a very light clear coat. The color seemed appropriately audacious without being too ugly. I wanted to go with a darker color, but the available options were a little blasé. The coating place took extra care to make sure all of the parts still fit in the holes with the added thickness. I only have had a chance to inspect one plate, but it looked good.
The sticker printer recommended by [person on GH] hasn't returned my requests for a quote. So that may not be happening. My usual sticker printer is backed up for the holidays.
The 3D printed parts are 'in production', and I expect will ship before the end of next week. The usual delivery date for the colored parts is 15 days from order, so the 10th?
I am still working long hours, so this is a terse update and I am stretched for time. I woke up at 4 am this morning with panic/insomnia and taped up some more boxes before going back to bed. I will be out of the country from the 11th until the 20(ish)th. That means my advisor is trying to squeeze as much work out of me before I leave as well. I am REALLY pushing to get all of this done before then. I can't really get through my living room to my door, and the assembled boxes and part bins are taking up literally 1/2 of my apartment. My girlfriend will be coming to live with me for a few weeks when I return, and I need to vacuum so she never finds out that I'm a gross male.
oh, i was under the impression that massdrop didn't complete a drop if it didn't meet the lowest drop point, but i've been historically wrong about keyboard stuff soi hope the tex acrylic case on massdrop (https://www.massdrop.com/buy/tex-acrylic-cnc-keyboard-case?mode=guest_open) reaches moq because i have no clue as to what other case i should use
I'm pretty sure that one doesn't have MOQ
yeah, i was considering this case but idk i haven't seen it up close and i'm concerned that it's gonna look like a cheap, standard 3d-printed case. but i haven't even googled images of the case so yai hope the tex acrylic case on massdrop (https://www.massdrop.com/buy/tex-acrylic-cnc-keyboard-case?mode=guest_open) reaches moq because i have no clue as to what other case i should useMechanicalkeyboards.com has it in stock for $69 shipped (https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=1410).
I'm not sure if hasu's board will fit in ziptyzes 3d printed case (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=77564.0), but it looks gr*8 :cool:
Updates:
Plates are cut, and switches fit in them.
I just got back from the powder coating place. I went with "signal blue" with a very light clear coat. The color seemed appropriately audacious without being too ugly. I wanted to go with a darker color, but the available options were a little blasé. The coating place took extra care to make sure all of the parts still fit in the holes with the added thickness. I only have had a chance to inspect one plate, but it looked good.
The sticker printer recommended by [person on GH] hasn't returned my requests for a quote. So that may not be happening. My usual sticker printer is backed up for the holidays.
The 3D printed parts are 'in production', and I expect will ship before the end of next week. The usual delivery date for the colored parts is 15 days from order, so the 10th?
I am still working long hours, so this is a terse update and I am stretched for time. I woke up at 4 am this morning with panic/insomnia and taped up some more boxes before going back to bed. I will be out of the country from the 11th until the 20(ish)th. That means my advisor is trying to squeeze as much work out of me before I leave as well. I am REALLY pushing to get all of this done before then. I can't really get through my living room to my door, and the assembled boxes and part bins are taking up literally 1/2 of my apartment. My girlfriend will be coming to live with me for a few weeks when I return, and I need to vacuum so she never finds out that I'm a gross male.
Ugh, this GB just gets worse and worse. First there was extra money from the switches (seriously, how ridiculous is that), then there were updates that things were being completed on time (wtf?), and now we hear that we may not even get the stickers that we were maybe going to get??Yeah really, if the biggest problem I have is not getting a sticker, I'll cope.
Wow.
Updates:i can't speak for everybody else, but i'm in no rush :p
Plates are cut, and switches fit in them.
I just got back from the powder coating place. I went with "signal blue" with a very light clear coat. The color seemed appropriately audacious without being too ugly. I wanted to go with a darker color, but the available options were a little blasé. The coating place took extra care to make sure all of the parts still fit in the holes with the added thickness. I only have had a chance to inspect one plate, but it looked good.
The sticker printer recommended by [person on GH] hasn't returned my requests for a quote. So that may not be happening. My usual sticker printer is backed up for the holidays.
The 3D printed parts are 'in production', and I expect will ship before the end of next week. The usual delivery date for the colored parts is 15 days from order, so the 10th?
I am still working long hours, so this is a terse update and I am stretched for time. I woke up at 4 am this morning with panic/insomnia and taped up some more boxes before going back to bed. I will be out of the country from the 11th until the 20(ish)th. That means my advisor is trying to squeeze as much work out of me before I leave as well. I am REALLY pushing to get all of this done before then. I can't really get through my living room to my door, and the assembled boxes and part bins are taking up literally 1/2 of my apartment. My girlfriend will be coming to live with me for a few weeks when I return, and I need to vacuum so she never finds out that I'm a gross male.
Ugh, this GB just gets worse and worse. First there was extra money from the switches (seriously, how ridiculous is that), then there were updates that things were being completed on time (wtf?), and now we hear that we may not even get the stickers that we were maybe going to get??
Wow.
I'm glad you folks are so understanding, but I'm very motivated.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/u9wvQyY.jpg)
Look at that picture. Step back and think for a second. That is literally HALF of my apartment space. Now do you see the tiny path of exposed carpet? That is the only way to the door. This GB has consumed my house. I want this **** gone. I want to vacuum. I want to find where that one slice of apple got to which is beginning to smell. I remember how life used to be simple and nice. Then you lot just HAD to FORCE ME to do this GB to satisfy your demented Alps lust. Monsters.
I hope my package is the one with the slice of apple in it.
I'm glad you folks are so understanding, but I'm very motivated.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/u9wvQyY.jpg)
Look at that picture. Step back and think for a second. That is literally HALF of my apartment space. Now do you see the tiny path of exposed carpet? That is the only way to the door. This GB has consumed my house. I want this **** gone. I want to vacuum. I want to find where that one slice of apple got to which is beginning to smell. I remember how life used to be simple and nice. Then you lot just HAD to FORCE ME to do this GB to satisfy your demented Alps lust. Monsters.
I'm glad you folks are so understanding, but I'm very motivated.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/u9wvQyY.jpg)
Look at that picture. Step back and think for a second. That is literally HALF of my apartment space. Now do you see the tiny path of exposed carpet? That is the only way to the door. This GB has consumed my house. I want this **** gone. I want to vacuum. I want to find where that one slice of apple got to which is beginning to smell. I remember how life used to be simple and nice. Then you lot just HAD to FORCE ME to do this GB to satisfy your demented Alps lust. Monsters.
Speaking of which Blue, when is round 2?I'm glad you folks are so understanding, but I'm very motivated.I'd do it again. >:DShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/u9wvQyY.jpg)
Look at that picture. Step back and think for a second. That is literally HALF of my apartment space. Now do you see the tiny path of exposed carpet? That is the only way to the door. This GB has consumed my house. I want this **** gone. I want to vacuum. I want to find where that one slice of apple got to which is beginning to smell. I remember how life used to be simple and nice. Then you lot just HAD to FORCE ME to do this GB to satisfy your demented Alps lust. Monsters.
Updates:
Plates are cut, and switches fit in them.
I just got back from the powder coating place. I went with "signal blue" with a very light clear coat. The color seemed appropriately audacious without being too ugly. I wanted to go with a darker color, but the available options were a little blasé. The coating place took extra care to make sure all of the parts still fit in the holes with the added thickness. I only have had a chance to inspect one plate, but it looked good.
The sticker printer recommended by [person on GH] hasn't returned my requests for a quote. So that may not be happening. My usual sticker printer is backed up for the holidays.
The 3D printed parts are 'in production', and I expect will ship before the end of next week. The usual delivery date for the colored parts is 15 days from order, so the 10th?
I am still working long hours, so this is a terse update and I am stretched for time. I woke up at 4 am this morning with panic/insomnia and taped up some more boxes before going back to bed. I will be out of the country from the 11th until the 20(ish)th. That means my advisor is trying to squeeze as much work out of me before I leave as well. I am REALLY pushing to get all of this done before then. I can't really get through my living room to my door, and the assembled boxes and part bins are taking up literally 1/2 of my apartment. My girlfriend will be coming to live with me for a few weeks when I return, and I need to vacuum so she never finds out that I'm a gross male.
I'm glad you folks are so understanding, but I'm very motivated.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/u9wvQyY.jpg)
Look at that picture. Step back and think for a second. That is literally HALF of my apartment space. Now do you see the tiny path of exposed carpet? That is the only way to the door. This GB has consumed my house. I want this **** gone. I want to vacuum. I want to find where that one slice of apple got to which is beginning to smell. I remember how life used to be simple and nice. Then you lot just HAD to FORCE ME to do this GB to satisfy your demented Alps lust. Monsters.
I'm glad you folks are so understanding, but I'm very motivated.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/u9wvQyY.jpg)
Look at that picture. Step back and think for a second. That is literally HALF of my apartment space. Now do you see the tiny path of exposed carpet? That is the only way to the door. This GB has consumed my house. I want this **** gone. I want to vacuum. I want to find where that one slice of apple got to which is beginning to smell. I remember how life used to be simple and nice. Then you lot just HAD to FORCE ME to do this GB to satisfy your demented Alps lust. Monsters.
Does your apartment have two floors? Mine does, but is very unusual for that reason - are we apartment twinsss?
I hope my package is the one with the slice of apple in it.
i think the apples would be better than the artisan caps to be honestI hope my package is the one with the slice of apple in it.
We discussed silly trinkets, that wasn't exactly what I had in mind. I shall settle for no fewer than TWO apple slices. Pfft!
i think the apples would be better than the artisan caps to be honest
Take care, Blue! Thank you so much for your work!i think the apples would be better than the artisan caps to be honest
Ouch. Right in the ego.
I packed some boxes tonight. 17/100 They aren't taped up because I am still waiting on things, so they aren't about to send soon. All the same, I am proud of the accomplishment. Now I'm going to shower all of the sweat off, because doing that with a fever was pretty dumb in hindsight.
Now I'm going to shower all of the sweat off, because doing that with a fever was pretty dumb in hindsight.
Now I'm going to shower all of the sweat off, because doing that with a fever was pretty dumb in hindsight.
With any luck, we'll get some nice virus buddies in the package with our keyboards!
Maybe this group buy won't be a failure after all. ;)
i hope i get some apples in my package.....i think the apples would be better than the artisan caps to be honest
Ouch. Right in the ego.
I packed some boxes tonight. 17/100 They aren't taped up because I am still waiting on things, so they aren't about to send soon. All the same, I am proud of the accomplishment. Now I'm going to shower all of the sweat off, because doing that with a fever was pretty dumb in hindsight.
I was feeling a bit better today, so 50/100 orders packed.
I also took some pictures of the powder coated plates. The first picture was taken with the plate sitting in a blue TeX Al case with flash, and the second picture was taken in a silver TeX Al case without flash. This should give you an idea of the color with some searchable references. The flash/noflash thing was due to some annoying reflection I got while in the silver case that made the color look off.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/U85HJkm.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/0UVFUd4.jpg)
Yes.I was feeling a bit better today, so 50/100 orders packed.
I also took some pictures of the powder coated plates. The first picture was taken with the plate sitting in a blue TeX Al case with flash, and the second picture was taken in a silver TeX Al case without flash. This should give you an idea of the color with some searchable references. The flash/noflash thing was due to some annoying reflection I got while in the silver case that made the color look off.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/U85HJkm.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/0UVFUd4.jpg)
Man that looks great
Not sure whether to get the silver or blue tex case now :D
Anything ever come of this? was thinking this or a Z-Case for this buildI don't know anything about that machine but it's certainly possible in the general sense to mill your own case. I might be trying this to make a couple of simple TEX-style aluminum cases using borrowed time on my former employer's CNC machines. I believe I can source some 1x5x12 6061-T6 bar stock for about $30/ea.Just totaled up what I spent on this...
Probably really inexpensive for a custom, but not for me
Never tell me the price!
Now I'm tempted to!
Still need a nice z-case or something though, cheap abs case will not cut it.
Anyone know the feasibility of milling your own 60% case? I have an x-carve with a 0.8kw spindle on the way and I guess it would be cool if that was possible :D
I haven't even pursued it yet. I was thinking about some time in the new year. No promises though. It might be a pipe dream, and I still have no way to get them anodized.Anything ever come of this? was thinking this or a Z-Case for this buildI don't know anything about that machine but it's certainly possible in the general sense to mill your own case. I might be trying this to make a couple of simple TEX-style aluminum cases using borrowed time on my former employer's CNC machines. I believe I can source some 1x5x12 6061-T6 bar stock for about $30/ea.Just totaled up what I spent on this...
Probably really inexpensive for a custom, but not for me
Never tell me the price!
Now I'm tempted to!
Still need a nice z-case or something though, cheap abs case will not cut it.
Anyone know the feasibility of milling your own 60% case? I have an x-carve with a 0.8kw spindle on the way and I guess it would be cool if that was possible :D
I haven't even pursued it yet. I was thinking about some time in the new year. No promises though. It might be a pipe dream, and I still have no way to get them anodized.Anything ever come of this? was thinking this or a Z-Case for this buildI don't know anything about that machine but it's certainly possible in the general sense to mill your own case. I might be trying this to make a couple of simple TEX-style aluminum cases using borrowed time on my former employer's CNC machines. I believe I can source some 1x5x12 6061-T6 bar stock for about $30/ea.Just totaled up what I spent on this...
Probably really inexpensive for a custom, but not for me
Never tell me the price!
Now I'm tempted to!
Still need a nice z-case or something though, cheap abs case will not cut it.
Anyone know the feasibility of milling your own 60% case? I have an x-carve with a 0.8kw spindle on the way and I guess it would be cool if that was possible :D
I wouldn't recommend getting the blueTeXcase for the powder coated plates. The cases have shine to them and more of a matte look. It clashes a bit. That is difficult to see in the photo. I actually intended to add metal flakes to the clear coat on the plates, but all that was available didn't look good. The ones I saw looked like they had big chunks of glitter on them rather than the fine powder I had expected. I'm sure those would look good on a large object, such as a car part at a distance, but something like a keyboard not so much.
This completely different color swatch I found has the approximate density of glitter they did.Show Image(http://wwwlightningcustomscoaterscom.webstarts.com/uploads/bass_boat_green.jpeg)
I was feeling a bit better today, so 50/100 orders packed.
I also took some pictures of the powder coated plates. The first picture was taken with the plate sitting in a blue TeX Al case with flash, and the second picture was taken in a silver TeX Al case without flash. This should give you an idea of the color with some searchable references. The flash/noflash thing was due to some annoying reflection I got while in the silver case that made the color look off.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/U85HJkm.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/0UVFUd4.jpg)
Edit: Those aren't TeX cases, they are non-branded ones from a recent Massdrop sale (https://www.massdrop.com/buy/60-keyboard-case). My mistake.
I was feeling a bit better today, so 50/100 orders packed.
I also took some pictures of the powder coated plates. The first picture was taken with the plate sitting in a blue TeX Al case with flash, and the second picture was taken in a silver TeX Al case without flash. This should give you an idea of the color with some searchable references. The flash/noflash thing was due to some annoying reflection I got while in the silver case that made the color look off.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/U85HJkm.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/0UVFUd4.jpg)
Edit: Those aren't TeX cases, they are non-branded ones from a recent Massdrop sale (https://www.massdrop.com/buy/60-keyboard-case). My mistake.
There seems to be a miscommunication. Packed =! ready to ship. I am still waiting on the 3D printed part. Shipment date is still undetermined. I expect somewhere around the 20th, because I'm a masochist who thinks the post office right before Christmas sounds like fun.
There seems to be a miscommunication. Packed =! ready to ship. I am still waiting on the 3D printed part. Shipment date is still undetermined. I expect somewhere around the 20th, because I'm a masochist who thinks the post office right before Christmas sounds like fun.
There seems to be a miscommunication. Packed =! ready to ship. I am still waiting on the 3D printed part. Shipment date is still undetermined. I expect somewhere around the 20th, because I'm a masochist who thinks the post office right before Christmas sounds like fun.
Hopefully you'll be buying and printing your own labels online and just dropping them off at the post office. I can't imagine the postal worker's pain (and the annoyed death stares of the people in the growing line) if you wanted to ship them all at the PO...
Dang it, I'm too late! Any leftover plates for those who didn't know that there was an ALPS customs world brewing out there?
There seems to be a miscommunication. Packed =! ready to ship. I am still waiting on the 3D printed part. Shipment date is still undetermined. I expect somewhere around the 20th, because I'm a masochist who thinks the post office right before Christmas sounds like fun.
Hopefully you'll be buying and printing your own labels online and just dropping them off at the post office. I can't imagine the postal worker's pain (and the annoyed death stares of the people in the growing line) if you wanted to ship them all at the PO...
Please try to keep the blood on my caps to a minimum.
Dang it, I'm too late! Any leftover plates for those who didn't know that there was an ALPS customs world brewing out there?
There is a plate buy coming up from LeandreN, if you like a pseudo-HHKB layout. https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=77342.0
Dang it, I'm too late! Any leftover plates for those who didn't know that there was an ALPS customs world brewing out there?
There is a plate buy coming up from LeandreN, if you like a pseudo-HHKB layout. https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=77342.0
Thanks JD. I'd prefer to just get an AEKII since I'm essentially farming one for all of my build parts, hopefully the LeandreN plates are also compatible (I hear the spacebar is "funky" though).
Dang it, I'm too late! Any leftover plates for those who didn't know that there was an ALPS customs world brewing out there?
There is a plate buy coming up from LeandreN, if you like a pseudo-HHKB layout. https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=77342.0
Thanks JD. I'd prefer to just get an AEKII since I'm essentially farming one for all of my build parts, hopefully the LeandreN plates are also compatible (I hear the spacebar is "funky" though).
I don't think the LeandreN Alps plate will be compatible, as it's 6.25 ANSI. However, all you'd need are some Tai Hao Alps caps and you'd be good to go. :D
The Tai Hao caps have 6.25u spacebars?
Ż\_(ツ)_/ŻThe Tai Hao caps have 6.25u spacebars?
Of course. What else would they have?
I feel like I killed the thread so now I feel responsible for getting the ball rolling again. Anything new to report? Is there anything exceptionally interesting some of you are doing with your GB items? I think my Alps HHKB can be considered interesting, although I have no idea what switches to put in it :\
I don't want clicky, I don't want linear, and I've had a bad experience with salmon Alps so far, but I feel like using matias switches are the easy way out.
I feel like I killed the thread so now I feel responsible for getting the ball rolling again. Anything new to report? Is there anything exceptionally interesting some of you are doing with your GB items? I think my Alps HHKB can be considered interesting, although I have no idea what switches to put in it :\
I don't want clicky, I don't want linear, and I've had a bad experience with salmon Alps so far, but I feel like using matias switches are the easy way out.
AFAIK, there are only 3 or 4 types of Alps switches in current manufacture. Fukka/Fuhua, XM, Tai Hao, and Matias, right? Why stress about finding vintage switches, which may or may not be nicer or worse than brand new switches? Put those Matias in there and away you go! :D
I feel like I killed the thread so now I feel responsible for getting the ball rolling again. Anything new to report? Is there anything exceptionally interesting some of you are doing with your GB items? I think my Alps HHKB can be considered interesting, although I have no idea what switches to put in it :\
I don't want clicky, I don't want linear, and I've had a bad experience with salmon Alps so far, but I feel like using matias switches are the easy way out.
I feel like I killed the thread so now I feel responsible for getting the ball rolling again. Anything new to report? Is there anything exceptionally interesting some of you are doing with your GB items? I think my Alps HHKB can be considered interesting, although I have no idea what switches to put in it :\
I don't want clicky, I don't want linear, and I've had a bad experience with salmon Alps so far, but I feel like using matias switches are the easy way out.
No clicky or linear? What about SKCM Orange?
I feel like I killed the thread so now I feel responsible for getting the ball rolling again. Anything new to report? Is there anything exceptionally interesting some of you are doing with your GB items? I think my Alps HHKB can be considered interesting, although I have no idea what switches to put in it :\
I don't want clicky, I don't want linear, and I've had a bad experience with salmon Alps so far, but I feel like using matias switches are the easy way out.
No clicky or linear? What about SKCM Orange?
Yeah, if you're a topre fan, maybe look into an IBM 5140 for its brown tactile alps that are supposedly like topre. I'm honestly not sure about that claim though, but I do hear they are nice.
I feel like I killed the thread so now I feel responsible for getting the ball rolling again. Anything new to report? Is there anything exceptionally interesting some of you are doing with your GB items? I think my Alps HHKB can be considered interesting, although I have no idea what switches to put in it :\
I don't want clicky, I don't want linear, and I've had a bad experience with salmon Alps so far, but I feel like using matias switches are the easy way out.
No clicky or linear? What about SKCM Orange?
Yeah, if you're a topre fan, maybe look into an IBM 5140 for its brown tactile alps that are supposedly like topre. I'm honestly not sure about that claim though, but I do hear they are nice.
For one of my two builds I'm planning on using some SKCM Browns, pulling them from an old Xerox board that I can't really do much else with
I feel like I killed the thread so now I feel responsible for getting the ball rolling again. Anything new to report? Is there anything exceptionally interesting some of you are doing with your GB items? I think my Alps HHKB can be considered interesting, although I have no idea what switches to put in it :\
I don't want clicky, I don't want linear, and I've had a bad experience with salmon Alps so far, but I feel like using matias switches are the easy way out.
No clicky or linear? What about SKCM Orange?
Yeah, if you're a topre fan, maybe look into an IBM 5140 for its brown tactile alps that are supposedly like topre. I'm honestly not sure about that claim though, but I do hear they are nice.
For one of my two builds I'm planning on using some SKCM Browns, pulling them from an old Xerox board that I can't really do much else with
Thank gawd for the IBM 5140, because otherwise, the SKCM browns would be pretty much as hard to find as SKCL browns and SKCM greens. I thought I recalled old full-size boards having tactile browns, too--looks like you found one. :D
What do you plan on putting in the other build, MAR? :)
Would you say $80 is too much to pay if one were to find such a board?
Would you say $80 is too much to pay if one were to find such a board?
Would you say $80 is too much to pay if one were to find such a board?
Are you talking about a Green SKCM board? I'm actually not sure how much they go for.
Edit: The few that have bought an SKCM green board (AHEM, nubbinator), I'm also interested in knowing the general price range I should be looking at.
I got my board with the Browns for about 5€. So yeah I would say $80 is way tooooo much if you're just going to harvest the switches
Did you get yours locally or online?
I got my board with the Browns for about 5€. So yeah I would say $80 is way tooooo much if you're just going to harvest the switches
I got my board with the Browns for about 5€. So yeah I would say $80 is way tooooo much if you're just going to harvest the switches
Yeah $80 is a lot, but that is also a currency conversion from Japanese Yen. Still it is a lot. I'm just not sure where else I would find another board like that. I suppose patience is key with these things. I'll keep waiting.
I feel like I killed the thread so now I feel responsible for getting the ball rolling again. Anything new to report? Is there anything exceptionally interesting some of you are doing with your GB items? I think my Alps HHKB can be considered interesting, although I have no idea what switches to put in it :\
I don't want clicky, I don't want linear, and I've had a bad experience with salmon Alps so far, but I feel like using matias switches are the easy way out.
I'm not saying everyone will get one for 5€. But as I said, I think $80 is too much if you're just going to harvest. I think the most I would spend on a harvest board would be $50.Did you get yours locally or online?
I got mine online and locally. Found the guy, online (ebay) and saw he lived 5min from where I work. So I went over and got 5 different boards for 30€ (so I guess I paid 6€ and not 5€ for each).
- Xerox
- Model M (rubber dome)
- Silicon Graphics E02737052 (foam and foil http://imgur.com/a/vTNsE#0)
- Apple EKII
- Sun-2
The guy collects old computers and was selling some keyboards he didn't have the computers that went with them.
I'm also thinking of making an IC on PMKB, that would be based off the keyset from the Xerox
here's a unfinished rough idea (WIP) of what the TKL part would look likeShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/2RnTJBw.jpg)
I got my board with the Browns for about 5€. So yeah I would say $80 is way tooooo much if you're just going to harvest the switches
Yeah $80 is a lot, but that is also a currency conversion from Japanese Yen. Still it is a lot. I'm just not sure where else I would find another board like that. I suppose patience is key with these things. I'll keep waiting.
I got my board with the Browns for about 5€. So yeah I would say $80 is way tooooo much if you're just going to harvest the switches
Yeah $80 is a lot, but that is also a currency conversion from Japanese Yen. Still it is a lot. I'm just not sure where else I would find another board like that. I suppose patience is key with these things. I'll keep waiting.
You do have to keep in mind that tactile green Alps are more rare than Taxi Yellow, Blues, Browns, Salmons, and pretty much any other Alps switch out there. $100 is considered a good price for Brown Alps, so $80 would be a great price. I know some might disagree with me, but I was lucky when I stumbled into them and jacobulus is the only other person I know who has a board with them.
I got my board with the Browns for about 5€. So yeah I would say $80 is way tooooo much if you're just going to harvest the switches
Yeah $80 is a lot, but that is also a currency conversion from Japanese Yen. Still it is a lot. I'm just not sure where else I would find another board like that. I suppose patience is key with these things. I'll keep waiting.
You do have to keep in mind that tactile green Alps are more rare than Taxi Yellow, Blues, Browns, Salmons, and pretty much any other Alps switch out there. $100 is considered a good price for Brown Alps, so $80 would be a great price. I know some might disagree with me, but I was lucky when I stumbled into them and jacobulus is the only other person I know who has a board with them.
I got my board with the Browns for about 5€. So yeah I would say $80 is way tooooo much if you're just going to harvest the switches
Yeah $80 is a lot, but that is also a currency conversion from Japanese Yen. Still it is a lot. I'm just not sure where else I would find another board like that. I suppose patience is key with these things. I'll keep waiting.
You do have to keep in mind that tactile green Alps are more rare than Taxi Yellow, Blues, Browns, Salmons, and pretty much any other Alps switch out there. $100 is considered a good price for Brown Alps, so $80 would be a great price. I know some might disagree with me, but I was lucky when I stumbled into them and jacobulus is the only other person I know who has a board with them.
I got my board with the Browns for about 5€. So yeah I would say $80 is way tooooo much if you're just going to harvest the switches
Yeah $80 is a lot, but that is also a currency conversion from Japanese Yen. Still it is a lot. I'm just not sure where else I would find another board like that. I suppose patience is key with these things. I'll keep waiting.
You do have to keep in mind that tactile green Alps are more rare than Taxi Yellow, Blues, Browns, Salmons, and pretty much any other Alps switch out there. $100 is considered a good price for Brown Alps, so $80 would be a great price. I know some might disagree with me, but I was lucky when I stumbled into them and jacobulus is the only other person I know who has a board with them.
It's going to be pretty hard finding a board for it considering I can't even find information on what boards even came with them. :rolleyes:
I got my board with the Browns for about 5€. So yeah I would say $80 is way tooooo much if you're just going to harvest the switches
Yeah $80 is a lot, but that is also a currency conversion from Japanese Yen. Still it is a lot. I'm just not sure where else I would find another board like that. I suppose patience is key with these things. I'll keep waiting.
You do have to keep in mind that tactile green Alps are more rare than Taxi Yellow, Blues, Browns, Salmons, and pretty much any other Alps switch out there. $100 is considered a good price for Brown Alps, so $80 would be a great price. I know some might disagree with me, but I was lucky when I stumbled into them and jacobulus is the only other person I know who has a board with them.
Almost every other switch, except linear browns. They're both unicorn switches when it comes to how often they pop up.
I got my board with the Browns for about 5€. So yeah I would say $80 is way tooooo much if you're just going to harvest the switches
Yeah $80 is a lot, but that is also a currency conversion from Japanese Yen. Still it is a lot. I'm just not sure where else I would find another board like that. I suppose patience is key with these things. I'll keep waiting.
You do have to keep in mind that tactile green Alps are more rare than Taxi Yellow, Blues, Browns, Salmons, and pretty much any other Alps switch out there. $100 is considered a good price for Brown Alps, so $80 would be a great price. I know some might disagree with me, but I was lucky when I stumbled into them and jacobulus is the only other person I know who has a board with them.
Almost every other switch, except linear browns. They're both unicorn switches when it comes to how often they pop up.
Browns are easy. IBM 5140. Dime a dozen, but $80-200 for one.
It's going to be pretty hard finding a board for it considering I can't even find information on what boards even came with them. :rolleyes:
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=60956.0
This is pretty much all we've got documented, it seems. SKCM Greens are more simplified successors to SKCM Brown, so unless you're the kind of guy who prefers salmon Alps to orange Alps, I don't see any other reason to be too concerned over it. :)
Well, unless you just want them because they're rare, hehe. :cool:
MoreI'm not saying everyone will get one for 5€. But as I said, I think $80 is too much if you're just going to harvest. I think the most I would spend on a harvest board would be $50.Did you get yours locally or online?
I got mine online and locally. Found the guy, online (ebay) and saw he lived 5min from where I work. So I went over and got 5 different boards for 30€ (so I guess I paid 6€ and not 5€ for each).
- Xerox
- Model M (rubber dome)
- Silicon Graphics E02737052 (foam and foil http://imgur.com/a/vTNsE#0)
- Apple EKII
- Sun-2
The guy collects old computers and was selling some keyboards he didn't have the computers that went with them.
I'm also thinking of making an IC on PMKB, that would be based off the keyset from the Xerox
here's a unfinished rough idea (WIP) of what the TKL part would look likeShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/2RnTJBw.jpg)
I like the colours
what legends would you go with?
IM LATE BUT PLEASE DONT BRING THE GH-ILL-PAY-ANYTHING-FOR-WHAT-I-WANT ATTITUDE TO ALPS BOARDS
LEAVE THAT **** TO VINTAGE CHERRY HUNTERS AND CLICK CLACKS PLSSSSS
IM LATE BUT PLEASE DONT BRING THE GH-ILL-PAY-ANYTHING-FOR-WHAT-I-WANT ATTITUDE TO ALPS BOARDS
LEAVE THAT **** TO VINTAGE CHERRY HUNTERS AND CLICK CLACKS PLSSSSS
<snip>The IBM convertible computer (Model 5140) is indeed a great source for Alps fanciers. The main typing area of the keyboard has tactile brown Alps and the half-size F-keys and arrow keys have what I think are linear yellow Alps. Moreover, the switches are topped off with beautiful dye-sublimated PBT keycaps. This keyboard has an embedded numeric keypad, and the keypad keycaps have front-printed numbers in blue.
Browns are easy. IBM 5140. Dime a dozen, but $80-200 for one.
<snip>The IBM convertible computer (Model 5140) is indeed a great source for Alps fanciers. The main typing area of the keyboard has tactile brown Alps and the half-size F-keys and arrow keys have what I think are linear yellow Alps. Moreover, the switches are topped off with beautiful dye-sublimated PBT keycaps. This keyboard has an embedded numeric keypad, and the keypad keycaps have front-printed numbers in blue.
Browns are easy. IBM 5140. Dime a dozen, but $80-200 for one.
I managed to get one of these keyboards today on eBay for $65 shipped in a rare stroke of good fortune. I've seen the IBM 5140s listed for as much as $495 plus almost $50 for shipping. When I have seen these listings, I have written to the sellers asking if they would be willing to sell only the keyboard (plus I have offered to walk them through the process of disconnecting it without damaging any of the components). Of course, they all say "No". Well, today, one of the sellers agreed to sell only the keyboard, but he went ahead without my instructions and damaged the connector when disconnecting it. Without any prompting from me, he countered with $65 shipped, which I readily accepted. Now it is on its way... Hurrah!
I was feeling a bit better today, so 50/100 orders packed.
I also took some pictures of the powder coated plates. The first picture was taken with the plate sitting in a blue TeX Al case with flash, and the second picture was taken in a silver TeX Al case without flash. This should give you an idea of the color with some searchable references. The flash/noflash thing was due to some annoying reflection I got while in the silver case that made the color look off.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/U85HJkm.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/0UVFUd4.jpg)
Edit: Those aren't TeX cases, they are non-branded ones from a recent Massdrop sale (https://www.massdrop.com/buy/60-keyboard-case). My mistake.
IM LATE BUT PLEASE DONT BRING THE GH-ILL-PAY-ANYTHING-FOR-WHAT-I-WANT ATTITUDE TO ALPS BOARDS
LEAVE THAT **** TO VINTAGE CHERRY HUNTERS AND CLICK CLACKS PLSSSSS
Who's saying that?
IM LATE BUT PLEASE DONT BRING THE GH-ILL-PAY-ANYTHING-FOR-WHAT-I-WANT ATTITUDE TO ALPS BOARDS
LEAVE THAT **** TO VINTAGE CHERRY HUNTERS AND CLICK CLACKS PLSSSSS
At the going rate of +$1 a switch for blues, that ship may have sailed I'm afraid.
IM LATE BUT PLEASE DONT BRING THE GH-ILL-PAY-ANYTHING-FOR-WHAT-I-WANT ATTITUDE TO ALPS BOARDS
LEAVE THAT **** TO VINTAGE CHERRY HUNTERS AND CLICK CLACKS PLSSSSS
At the going rate of +$1 a switch for blues, that ship may have sailed I'm afraid.
thats why we trade :'(
Just 2,500 leftover switches, nbd.
Update:
I have successfully gone to and returned from Canada for my little trip, despite the best efforts of a very grueling customs experience. Since my return, I have organized the rest of the shipment. I ran out of packing peanuts, so there is still some minor filling to do, but that is pretty much done. Monday I will begin the process of stamping and sending the CONUS packages and I will begin filling out the customs forms for the INTL packages.
The add-on trinket I had 3D printed arrived, and the parts work. The fit is tight on some due to the nature of the 3D printing process, but they work. If the extra material proves too tight for the cap you are trying to use, you can always scrape the cruciform with a knife to loosen the fit.
They came in a printed shell to hold the 100 free bits from escapingShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/H4fBXWs.jpg)
And the juicy things were withinShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/aNVD3bp.jpg)
The winners of the custom caps have been picked. The method I used to choose the winners was, rolling 2d10 die (one for each digit) gave the number of a row on my spreadsheet. The spreadsheet rows were not in any particular order, and the die have been acceptably random in the past. The winners will be kept a surprise until the package is received. You will know if you have won, because in the ziploc with the 3D printed part there will be a medicine bottle with the cap in it.
The current leftovers which I will be selling off are:
3 stab sets
~1800 quiet click switches
~250 linear switches
~350 click switches
These will be sold first come first serve. Some people have already PM'd me asking for them, and I will be replying to them all tonight. If you buy things now, you avoid extra shipping charges because I can just throw them in with your first box.
You were in Canada? You should've walked to my house and given me my stuff! It's the big blue one with white trim!
You were in Canada? You should've walked to my house and given me my stuff! It's the big blue one with white trim!
Sorry eh. I was in MB not BC. With 20cm of snow in one day, all the houses had the white trim.
Update:these trinkets make me horny and i'm not sure how to feel about that
I have successfully gone to and returned from Canada for my little trip, despite the best efforts of a very grueling customs experience. Since my return, I have organized the rest of the shipment. I ran out of packing peanuts, so there is still some minor filling to do, but that is pretty much done. Monday I will begin the process of stamping and sending the CONUS packages and I will begin filling out the customs forms for the INTL packages.
The add-on trinket I had 3D printed arrived, and the parts work. The fit is tight on some due to the nature of the 3D printing process, but they work. If the extra material proves too tight for the cap you are trying to use, you can always scrape the cruciform with a knife to loosen the fit.
They came in a printed shell to hold the 100 free bits from escapingShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/H4fBXWs.jpg)
And the juicy things were withinShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/aNVD3bp.jpg)
The winners of the custom caps have been picked. The method I used to choose the winners was, rolling 2d10 die (one for each digit) gave the number of a row on my spreadsheet. The spreadsheet rows were not in any particular order, and the die have been acceptably random in the past. The winners will be kept a surprise until the package is received. You will know if you have won, because in the ziploc with the 3D printed part there will be a medicine bottle with the cap in it.
The current leftovers which I will be selling off are:
3 stab sets
~1800 quiet click switches
~250 linear switches
~350 click switches
These will be sold first come first serve. Some people have already PM'd me asking for them, and I will be replying to them all tonight. If you buy things now, you avoid extra shipping charges because I can just throw them in with your first box.
Update:
I have successfully gone to and returned from Canada for my little trip, despite the best efforts of a very grueling customs experience. Since my return, I have organized the rest of the shipment. I ran out of packing peanuts, so there is still some minor filling to do, but that is pretty much done. Monday I will begin the process of stamping and sending the CONUS packages and I will begin filling out the customs forms for the INTL packages.
The add-on trinket I had 3D printed arrived, and the parts work. The fit is tight on some due to the nature of the 3D printing process, but they work. If the extra material proves too tight for the cap you are trying to use, you can always scrape the cruciform with a knife to loosen the fit.
They came in a printed shell to hold the 100 free bits from escapingShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/H4fBXWs.jpg)
And the juicy things were withinShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/aNVD3bp.jpg)
The winners of the custom caps have been picked. The method I used to choose the winners was, rolling 2d10 die (one for each digit) gave the number of a row on my spreadsheet. The spreadsheet rows were not in any particular order, and the die have been acceptably random in the past. The winners will be kept a surprise until the package is received. You will know if you have won, because in the ziploc with the 3D printed part there will be a medicine bottle with the cap in it.
The current leftovers which I will be selling off are:
3 stab sets
~1800 quiet click switches
~250 linear switches
~350 click switches
These will be sold first come first serve. Some people have already PM'd me asking for them, and I will be replying to them all tonight. If you buy things now, you avoid extra shipping charges because I can just throw them in with your first box.
Are those stabiliser inserts? They look far too huge...they're meant to be alps-mx adapters so you can fit your mx keycaps on your alps switch
Great to hear this is shipping, I really need to pick up some cases though :)I'm right there with you. I have no idea what cases in going to use for these things. I have a black TEX alu case that's holding an Infinity right now. I'll probably get rid of the Infinity and use that case for an Alps build. I also have a TEX clear acrylic case but that doesn't look very good...
I had a black TEX alu case, but I sold it. Now I feel pretty silly since I could of used it for one of these boards. You can buy them directly from TEX though, so I may try and get another one of the black ones for my aekii layout board, and maybe a blue one for my infinity that will use Alpine Winter. We'll see!Great to hear this is shipping, I really need to pick up some cases though :)I'm right there with you. I have no idea what cases in going to use for these things. I have a black TEX alu case that's holding an Infinity right now. I'll probably get rid of the Infinity and use that case for an Alps build. I also have a TEX clear acrylic case but that doesn't look very good...
Quick update:
Mailing has begun. 12/100 have been shipped. I'm going to work on the rest now.
The extras are selling quickly. Stocks are at:
1 stab set
53 linear
130 click
~850 quiet click switches
If you are interested in the extras and combining the shipment, you should order TODAY. I'm getting this **** in the mail.
I'm not saying everyone will get one for 5€. But as I said, I think $80 is too much if you're just going to harvest. I think the most I would spend on a harvest board would be $50.Did you get yours locally or online?
I got mine online and locally. Found the guy, online (ebay) and saw he lived 5min from where I work. So I went over and got 5 different boards for 30€ (so I guess I paid 6€ and not 5€ for each).
- Xerox
- Model M (rubber dome)
- Silicon Graphics E02737052 (foam and foil http://imgur.com/a/vTNsE#0)
- Apple EKII
- Sun-2
The guy collects old computers and was selling some keyboards he didn't have the computers that went with them.
Quick update:
Mailing has begun. 12/100 have been shipped. I'm going to work on the rest now.
The extras are selling quickly. Stocks are at:
1 stab set
53 linear
130 click
~850 quiet click switches
If you are interested in the extras and combining the shipment, you should order TODAY. I'm getting this **** in the mail.
Thank you again for your hard work!
After driving back home, I noticed a package that was waiting for me. Not only the plate was inside, I also got one of the elephant (Drunken Delirium?) artisan! Def woke me up in the morning. Went to work a little late just to assemble everything. Priorities first, right? :pShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/wOmc2k8.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/aQVhNL0.jpg)
Happy Holidays, everyone!
Updates:
So 12 of the packages were sent out before Christmas, but only the 12 smallest ones because the line at the post office was literally an hour and a half long. While I was there I picked up the rest of the supplies I would need to send the rest. The remainder of the CONUS packages now have stamps and will be picked up tomorrow(?) to be sent. I'm 1/4 of the way through the INTL customs forms and had to stop last night due to cramping hands. I hope to have them finished today to be mailed with the rest of the packages tomorrow. Note that the weather here isn't wonderful. There is ice on the roads and it is currently snowing. Being a southern state, we don't have much in the way of ice prevention infrastructure, so delays are possible. Tracking numbers will be provided asap.
I'm super excited to see the test 12 arriving correctly. I already encountered my first mistake, but it appears to have taken care of itself. Post more pictures of those builds folks.
SJHL, your Barca cap is "Supple Skin". Drunken Delirium is the pink elephant, and Sick Slime is greenish. There is also a red one out there I'm calling Bloodlust.
I will have pics of my builds, as well as the Shyamalan twist, soon. Sending the rest of the packages has priority. Plus, not having Alpine Winter out yet softens the blow (blame njbair).
Tracking numbers have been sent to everyone excluding those who have otherwise been contacted. Check your spam folder if you can't find it.
Tracking numbers have been sent to everyone excluding those who have otherwise been contacted. Check your spam folder if you can't find it.
Tracking numbers have been sent to everyone excluding those who have otherwise been contacted. Check your spam folder if you can't find it.
Hmmm, I didn't see anything in my inbox or spam. :(
Tracking numbers have been sent to everyone excluding those who have otherwise been contacted. Check your spam folder if you can't find it.
Hmmm, I didn't see anything in my inbox or spam. :(
Same here.
got mine yesterday!!
got mine yesterday!!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Mqt4sgo.jpg)
Tracking numbers have been sent to everyone excluding those who have otherwise been contacted. Check your spam folder if you can't find it.
Nope, diodes didn't come presoldered on the previous rounds, either. I chose to purchase some surface mount diodes to install, instead of the through hole versions provided, as I think the SMD are actually easier to install.got mine yesterday!!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Mqt4sgo.jpg)
Hmm the diodes don't come pre soldered? No biggie but thought that was the case. Cool though
That's because an SMD diode, like everything, is bigger in Texas.Nope, diodes didn't come presoldered on the previous rounds, either. I chose to purchase some surface mount diodes to install, instead of the through hole versions provided, as I think the SMD are actually easier to install.got mine yesterday!!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Mqt4sgo.jpg)
Hmm the diodes don't come pre soldered? No biggie but thought that was the case. Cool though
That's because an SMD diode, like everything, is bigger in Texas.
The right tools make all the difference.That's because an SMD diode, like everything, is bigger in Texas.
Nah, I just have the tools for SMD soldering, and through hole requires bending leads, taping the diodes in place, clipping the leads, and soldering. Too many steps for that, when I can more easily place the SMD with tweezers and hit them with the iron.
Blue! Your my boy!! Thanks mang!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/cTMMsXZ.png)
Diodes soldered in and all tested good with the Multimeter:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/aMEzvyO.jpg)
Salmon's are happy:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/qYVTNTD.jpg)
Hell yeah dude, looking CRISP!
Hell yeah dude, looking CRISP!
"Crispy" like Crispy Cremes, the boi Lurch come through like yadadaimean...uhhhhhh, str8 bars son!
So I tried sending the tracking numbers out through a mail merge in word. Maybe it didn't work. Or maybe they are delayed. I'm going to send them all by hand here in a bit.
The postman came this morning at his usual time to pick up the packages. After his eyes returned to a normal size from the sheer volume of what I asked him to take, he said he would come back after his route. And just now, we got done loading up the truck. They are all on the way!
now she just needs some Alpine Winter...brrrrrShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/kKPSxC8.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/0RAd9eE.jpg)
After fussing with Word 2007 Mail Merge and POP3 accounts, I finally gave up on sending the tracking numbers the 'easy way'. I just sent them all out by hand. My copy-paster is tired. Next time I will just set the list up as a csv and do it on my linux command line. At least then I would get errors instead of silent failures.
So everything is taken care of up to this point. Let me know if there are any issues.
Just got mine, as well. Had a little extra goody in there, in the former of a beetle artisan cap. Thanks so much, Blue!
What're you waiting for? Show us the cap!
Just came in the mail, can't wait to build it! I guess I'll stick with the infinity layout just so I have something different between my 60%s
Got mine just now.
I thought Hasu was presoldering though.. guess I misread / didn't understand.
Time to buy some flux... or, can I get by without it (don't have the steadiest hands)? hmm.. for SMD it actually doesn't look too bad.
Got mine just now.
I thought Hasu was presoldering though.. guess I misread / didn't understand.
Time to buy some flux... or, can I get by without it (don't have the steadiest hands)? hmm.. for SMD it actually doesn't look too bad.
Wait, are the diodes through hole, or SMD? The previous round shipped with through hole. (Haven't gotten home to open the package yet)
Despite three order changes, everything arrived in perfect condition! That includes Hasu's PCB, a HHKB plate, stab sets, and quiet click switches (for my Monarch when that arrives).Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/iGVQ77y.jpg)
Unexpectedly however, I also received a Sadster along with an MX to Alps adapter. This is because I jokingly asked for one when I placed my order since "the GB has made my wallet sad". I completely forgot about it until I saw it in the box. It was really nice of Blue to do and it's my very first Sadster!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/vJ34THu.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/dVaNWpZ.jpg)
The adapter works like a charm, although I had to shim the inside corners a bit with a knife before it would fit. That's most likely a tolerance issue with Shapeways' 3d printers since the part is so small.
I can't wait to put together an Alps HHBK. I'm just waiting on a break for some orange Alps on Ebay. The plan for the case is to mill an aluminum block with my almost finished CNC router.
So thank you BlueNalgene. I'm sure it became a burden with all of the order changes, sorting, the anxiety that comes with hoping everything was sorted correctly, along with having to convince your girlfriend you're not becoming a hoarder. So again, thank you! :)
Got mine today and it's all finished already. Comp whites and aekii caps. It's pretty great. Need to get a case and a better/hhkber layout programmed in though.
So clicky.
Despite three order changes, everything arrived in perfect condition! That includes Hasu's PCB, a HHKB plate, stab sets, and quiet click switches (for my Monarch when that arrives).Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/iGVQ77y.jpg)
Unexpectedly however, I also received a Sadster along with an MX to Alps adapter. This is because I jokingly asked for one when I placed my order since "the GB has made my wallet sad". I completely forgot about it until I saw it in the box. It was really nice of Blue to do and it's my very first Sadster!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/vJ34THu.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/dVaNWpZ.jpg)
The adapter works like a charm, although I had to shim the inside corners a bit with a knife before it would fit. That's most likely a tolerance issue with Shapeways' 3d printers since the part is so small.
I can't wait to put together an Alps HHBK. I'm just waiting on a break for some orange Alps on Ebay. The plan for the case is to mill an aluminum block with my almost finished CNC router.
So thank you BlueNalgene. I'm sure it became a burden with all of the order changes, sorting, the anxiety that comes with hoping everything was sorted correctly, along with having to convince your girlfriend you're not becoming a hoarder. So again, thank you! :)
I hate to be this guy, but would you have one extra pcb?
I haven't ordered my stabs yet, but wanted to start putting this together.
Is it possible to install the stabilizers after soldering the switches?
1. I see that there are what appear to be through-hole diodes with the PCBs. I did not realize that I would have to solder diodes as well as switches. Could you please refer me to a good online guide about how to place and solder the diodes? These are diodes rather than resistors for LEDs, correct? I haven't looked at them carefully as yet.
2. Could you also refer me to an online guide for soldering the switches?
3. I did not get powder-coated plates. Can they be used without painting, clear-coating, or powder coating, or will they rust without doing one of these treatments? I have done a refurbishing of an old keyboard -- for that, I sanded and spray-painted the barrel plate using RustOleum spray paint applied in thin coats with light sanding between coats. Would this procedure be okay for the steel plates that you have sent or would you recommend something else?
4. There was an extra item included in a separate Ziploc bag -- it is a small blue thing that looks like a stabilizer insert, but there is only one of them. Just wondering what this is and what, if anything, I would need to do with it.
5. Speaking of stabilizers, clips and inserts, I assume that I would need to provide these, correct? Do the stabilzer clips attach to the plate rather than the PCB? Would I be able to purchase these from Matias?
6. Is this PCB fully programmable? If so, is there a link to a configurator and a way to reflash the firmware with a hex file?
My job isn't over just because the packages went out.
I know some people might be new to this. Based on one brave user's questions I am going to give you a quick FAQ for assembling your new toys.Quote1. I see that there are what appear to be through-hole diodes with the PCBs. I did not realize that I would have to solder diodes as well as switches. Could you please refer me to a good online guide about how to place and solder the diodes? These are diodes rather than resistors for LEDs, correct? I haven't looked at them carefully as yet.
This PCB doesn't support LEDs. The diodes are easy to solder at least. Hasu has made a very complicated illustration of how to solder the diodes in:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/mhQrQXkh.jpg)Quote2. Could you also refer me to an online guide for soldering the switches?
I don't have any good pics of my build during the assembly, and I'm lazy enough to not want to take it apart. Let me see if I can do I sufficient explanation with words only.
Take a look at your PCB. On one side you will see a small toggle switch with an LED next to it. We will call this the Bottom. The Bottom is the side that gets diodes. Look at the diode holes. Do you notice how for each through hole location for a diode has two little squares near it spaced only a few mm from each other? Those are also diode pads. If you wanted to, you could get SMT diodes and solder them on in those locations instead of using the through hole diodes. That is more advanced though. Why did I mention it? Because this should confirm to you that the side you are looking at is where the diodes go. It is easy to solder all of those on first. Remember the orientation in that picture hasu made. When they are all soldered in, make sure that the leads are clipped close enough that your plate won't touch them.
Now that your diodes are soldered on, you can flip the board over so you are looking at the Top side. When you look at this side, the USB mini connector should go in the top-left corner. This is the keyboard in the orientation you would see when typing on it, the spacebar is nearest to you. Overlay your plate on the PCB. Make sure the spacebar is toward you and the screws are lined up. If you look through the holes in your plate, you should be able to tell right away where the switches go. Starting at the four corners of the plate, push a switch through from the top of the plate in such a way that the leads on the switch line up with the holes on the PCB. The plastic of the switch housing should be a few mm below the plane of the plate, with everything held in place firmly. When you are satisfied with this fit of the four corners, lower the plate onto the PCB and let the switch leads slide naturally into the through holes. Everything fit? Is it fairly level? Does it looks like a weird oreo? Good. Now you can continue putting in switches. With the corners on first, it is easier to pop in the switches through the plate and PCB holes while the everything is sitting like the final project. Once everything is in and you can see the solder leads for each switch you inserted poking through, you are ready to solder.
"But wait Blue, not all of these holes are filled!"
Right. Thanks to hasu's smart design, the plate dictates which locations are used. You don't need to worry about the other ones, as they are vestigial at this point.
Now plug it in and see if it works! The PCB comes pre-loaded with simple firmware.Quote3. I did not get powder-coated plates. Can they be used without painting, clear-coating, or powder coating, or will they rust without doing one of these treatments? I have done a refurbishing of an old keyboard -- for that, I sanded and spray-painted the barrel plate using RustOleum spray paint applied in thin coats with light sanding between coats. Would this procedure be okay for the steel plates that you have sent or would you recommend something else?
Paint or protective coating isn't necessary. I used T-304 stainless steel. While it isn't impervious to damage, it should be remarkably resilient. If you would like comparison, take a look at some of those steel saucepans which you can probably find your kitchen. Look for the shiny awesome stuff that chef's use. That is the same steel. The powder coat in this case is more of an aesthetic choice. If you want to put a coat on for pretties, go for it. Be sure you use something that doesn't add much thickness to the plate near the switch holes.Quote4. There was an extra item included in a separate Ziploc bag -- it is a small blue thing that looks like a stabilizer insert, but there is only one of them. Just wondering what this is and what, if anything, I would need to do with it.
That is an Alps to Cherry converter that I had 3D printed for everyone. See this post. (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=75491.msg1977944#msg1977944) I wanted to add something silly that people might use, so I designed those. I chose this because one of the common complaints about Alps that I've heard is the lack of artisan/custom keycap options. With this you can add one on. It might not be your cup of tea, but you never know when it will prove useful.Quote5. Speaking of stabilizers, clips and inserts, I assume that I would need to provide these, correct? Do the stabilzer clips attach to the plate rather than the PCB? Would I be able to purchase these from Matias?
Yes they are nice to have. The ones available from Matias are compatible, and you can also try some that you steal from an older Alps board. If you want the ones from matias, you can find them on the shop page at the last entry on the keycaps section.Quote6. Is this PCB fully programmable? If so, is there a link to a configurator and a way to reflash the firmware with a hex file?
Yes it is programmable, and there are some easy tools.
You will need a programmer. I used Atmel's FLiP (http://www.atmel.com/tools/FLIP.aspx). There are lighter weight tools out there, but I had some trouble getting them to run on my weird split hard drive windows 7 cluster**** machine. Other folks might be able to help you with that.
There are two options for editing your layout. If you are hardcore, you can compile it yourself and do all the customization in C. You can find the source here (https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard/tree/master/keyboard/alps64). If you need to crap something out in an hour before your plane leaves and OMG what if I don't have a keyboard while I am abroad like me, you can use hasu's fancy new tool (http://www.tmk-kbd.com/tmk_keyboard/editor/alps64/index.html). In Lord Hasu's infinite wisdom, he also provided a copy of his current layout to act as a starting point. Go here (http://www.tmk-kbd.com/tmk_keyboard/editor/alps64/index.html#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) to see it.
This FAQ is summarized from a conversation I had with a participant. Some details have been changed to keep that conversation private, and this was posted with the permission of that user. The curious party was actually a veteran member that just wanted a little handholding with this project. So let me encourage everyone to ask questions. Not all of us are perfect the first time. I have asked my share while making this project. We are all in this together to make something awesome. So do you have a question? ASK. Are you worried your reputation as a keyboard god might be tarnished if you ask something simple? PM me. My job isn't over just because the packages went out.
My job isn't over just because the packages went out.
Friends, that ^ right there is what you call a GROUP BUY LEADER. Not just a group buy organizer. It's actually not very common to find common courtesy these days. Just let that sink in for a moment, and then let's all say a huge THANK YOU one more time to BlueNalgene for LEADING this buy.
My job isn't over just because the packages went out.
Friends, that ^ right there is what you call a GROUP BUY LEADER. Not just a group buy organizer. It's actually not very common to find common courtesy these days. Just let that sink in for a moment, and then let's all say a huge THANK YOU one more time to BlueNalgene for LEADING this buy.
Ha. TIL saying nice things makes you Elrick.My job isn't over just because the packages went out.
Friends, that ^ right there is what you call a GROUP BUY LEADER. Not just a group buy organizer. It's actually not very common to find common courtesy these days. Just let that sink in for a moment, and then let's all say a huge THANK YOU one more time to BlueNalgene for LEADING this buy.
hi elrick
Similar question for those of us who have HHKB plates -- Do we install diodes in the positions on the PCB that will have no switches?
My job isn't over just because the packages went out.
Friends, that ^ right there is what you call a GROUP BUY LEADER. Not just a group buy organizer. It's actually not very common to find common courtesy these days. Just let that sink in for a moment, and then let's all say a huge THANK YOU one more time to BlueNalgene for LEADING this buy.
A question about the TMK Keymap Editor. Which keycode is used for Fn?
Similar question for those of us who have HHKB plates -- Do we install diodes in the positions on the PCB that will have no switches?
I haven't got my pcb yet, but if it is properly designed then you don't have to. Basically the diode is only there to make sure electricity flows one way through the closed switch, since there is no switch on that position there's no need for the diode. You can see on this diagram (http://headfuzz.co.uk/files/keyboard-matrix1-sch.png) how it has no impact on the flow in the rest of the circuit.
Yes, based on how the matrix works, you do NOT need to solder in diodes for unused switches. But are you a paranoid completionist? I know I am. I soldered all those puppies in juuuuust to be sure.
I built my keyboard last night with the AT101 layout, but found that apparently the stablizer wire isn't compatible with SGI spacebar. I guess I'll have to locate a Dell AT101 spacebar and the little plastic tubes.If a 7u wire is what you need I have one, you can have it. Let me know.
You can see what I mean here. The stab wire won't quite reach the clip in inserts.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/h7BK3VR.jpg)
Yes, based on how the matrix works, you do NOT need to solder in diodes for unused switches. But are you a paranoid completionist? I know I am. I soldered all those puppies in juuuuust to be sure.
Solder all the diodes in case I miss the wrong one and screw it all up, gotcha, will do ;)
If a 7u wire is what you need I have one, you can have it. Let me know.
Speaking of wires, anyone have a good source on 6u wires? I know I could bend one...but I'd rather have a pre-made one for when Alpine Winter arrives.
Everybody is getting their packages, mines still sitting in Chicago `-`
getting there(https://geekhack.org/Smileys/solosmileys/shocked.gif)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/hq9OsKS.jpg)
Everybody is getting their packages, mines still sitting in Chicago `-`Mine is sitting in Miami. Then it'll be another full month until it arrives here in Brazil through the shipping forwarder company. :(
Just a snippet before Alpine Winter shows up
With Badwrench's modsShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/AWCNJcg.jpg)
Just finished the soldering/testing of switches.Show Image(http://imgur.com/tVtTHMR.jpg)
Finished board 1 of 2 this afternoon (I'll be waiting for Alpine winter to do my 2nd board from this buy).Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/16/01/03/846f0673d356bf1c3c37fd5ea29072e8.jpg)Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/16/01/03/50cbea2679007637c77ec0c58f77ec60.jpg)
Primarily oranges from an AEK I, a white on capslock, matias linears on mods, and mostly Matias clicks on gui/alt,etc.
Rocking a Royal Glam case with Tai Hao Olivette caps.Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/16/01/03/2860bdf989758e89b2521408949179b0.jpg)Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/16/01/03/72262855926b8a979cca3cd578ea01e8.jpg)
Ok the board is built but I can't figure out how to program it. I know about http://www.tmk-kbd.com/tmk_keyboard/editor/alps64/index.html but not how to make it work.
A question about the TMK Keymap Editor. Which keycode is used for Fn?
Which Fn do you mean?
Do you mean the Fn like you would find on your laptop to adjust brightness settings or something? According to \tmk_keyboard\tmk_core\doc\keymap.md section 1.5 and a little cross referencing of the code. It looks like that isn't possible with the editor. The code defines 32 Fn keys, but none of the current definitions would give the effect you would want if you said Yes to my question here. If it is possible to make a key like that, it is beyond the current scope of the editor AFAIK.
Do you mean a function button to switch layers? You can find those under the "Layer Switching and Etc." tab. You can do lots of fun things with the layers. The editor has the known fun things like mute, power off, mouse keys, etc. all ready to go. If you want something outside that, you would need to dig into the code yourself.
Both of the answers I've provided are based on my understanding. Asking hasu in the TMK firmware thread may be useful.
A question about the TMK Keymap Editor. Which keycode is used for Fn?
Which Fn do you mean?
Do you mean the Fn like you would find on your laptop to adjust brightness settings or something? According to \tmk_keyboard\tmk_core\doc\keymap.md section 1.5 and a little cross referencing of the code. It looks like that isn't possible with the editor. The code defines 32 Fn keys, but none of the current definitions would give the effect you would want if you said Yes to my question here. If it is possible to make a key like that, it is beyond the current scope of the editor AFAIK.
Do you mean a function button to switch layers? You can find those under the "Layer Switching and Etc." tab. You can do lots of fun things with the layers. The editor has the known fun things like mute, power off, mouse keys, etc. all ready to go. If you want something outside that, you would need to dig into the code yourself.
Both of the answers I've provided are based on my understanding. Asking hasu in the TMK firmware thread may be useful.
Yeah, I'll need to set up my arrow keys etc. So I'm confused on which option to choose for making the key between my right ALT and right CTRL work as a Fn key.
Not sure what the difference is between "Layer Switch Momentary", "Layer Switch Toggle", "Layer Switch with Tap Toggle", & "Layer switch with Tap key".
A question about the TMK Keymap Editor. Which keycode is used for Fn?
Which Fn do you mean?
Do you mean the Fn like you would find on your laptop to adjust brightness settings or something? According to \tmk_keyboard\tmk_core\doc\keymap.md section 1.5 and a little cross referencing of the code. It looks like that isn't possible with the editor. The code defines 32 Fn keys, but none of the current definitions would give the effect you would want if you said Yes to my question here. If it is possible to make a key like that, it is beyond the current scope of the editor AFAIK.
Do you mean a function button to switch layers? You can find those under the "Layer Switching and Etc." tab. You can do lots of fun things with the layers. The editor has the known fun things like mute, power off, mouse keys, etc. all ready to go. If you want something outside that, you would need to dig into the code yourself.
Both of the answers I've provided are based on my understanding. Asking hasu in the TMK firmware thread may be useful.
Yeah, I'll need to set up my arrow keys etc. So I'm confused on which option to choose for making the key between my right ALT and right CTRL work as a Fn key.
Not sure what the difference is between "Layer Switch Momentary", "Layer Switch Toggle", "Layer Switch with Tap Toggle", & "Layer switch with Tap key".
https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard/blob/master/tmk_core/doc/keymap.md (https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard/blob/master/tmk_core/doc/keymap.md)
See section 2.2
Check your PCB
Test your PCB before you start assembling. If you assemble it without this test and it doesn't work it could be very difficult to discrimitate between PCB's fault and yours.
1. Plug into USB port
You will see LED on bottom side flashes at startup. And it will be enumerated as a keyboard device by your OS.
In Windows you will find a entry like 'HID Keyboard Device' whose hardware id is like 'VID_FEED&PID_6464' in Device Manager.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/u9nYiUil.png)
In Linux you will find a line like below in output of 'lsusb'
Code: [Select]$ lsusb
and lines like below in log file such as /var/log/kern.log(ubuntu).
...
Bus 001 Device 050: ID feed:6464
...
Code: [Select]Jan 4 23:05:28 desk kernel: [305237.996043] usb 1-1.3.1: new full-speed USB device number 52 using ehci-pci
Jan 4 23:05:28 desk kernel: [305238.090594] usb 1-1.3.1: New USB device found, idVendor=feed, idProduct=6464
Jan 4 23:05:28 desk kernel: [305238.090607] usb 1-1.3.1: New USB device strings: Mfr=1, Product=2, SerialNumber=0
Jan 4 23:05:28 desk kernel: [305238.090613] usb 1-1.3.1: Product: Alps64
Jan 4 23:05:28 desk kernel: [305238.090619] usb 1-1.3.1: Manufacturer: TMK
Jan 4 23:05:28 desk kernel: [305238.093405] input: TMK Alps64 as /devices/pci0000:00/0000:00:02.1/usb1/1-1/1-1.3/1-1.3.1/1-1.3.1:1.0/0003:FEED:6464.008F/input/input121
Jan 4 23:05:28 desk kernel: [305238.148208] hid-generic 0003:FEED:6464.008F: input,hidraw0: USB HID v1.11 Keyboard [TMK Alps64] on usb-0000:00:02.1-1.3.1/input0
Jan 4 23:05:28 desk kernel: [305238.150044] input: TMK Alps64 as /devices/pci0000:00/0000:00:02.1/usb1/1-1/1-1.3/1-1.3.1/1-1.3.1:1.1/0003:FEED:6464.0090/input/input122
Jan 4 23:05:28 desk kernel: [305238.204289] hid-generic 0003:FEED:6464.0090: input,hidraw1: USB HID v1.11 Mouse [TMK Alps64] on usb-0000:00:02.1-1.3.1/input1
Jan 4 23:05:28 desk kernel: [305238.206226] input: TMK Alps64 as /devices/pci0000:00/0000:00:02.1/usb1/1-1/1-1.3/1-1.3.1/1-1.3.1:1.2/0003:FEED:6464.0091/input/input123
Jan 4 23:05:28 desk kernel: [305238.260781] hid-generic 0003:FEED:6464.0091: input,hidraw2: USB HID v1.11 Device [TMK Alps64] on usb-0000:00:02.1-1.3.1/input2
Jan 4 23:05:28 desk kernel: [305238.263008] hid-generic 0003:FEED:6464.0092: hiddev0,hidraw3: USBHID v1.11 Device [TMK Alps64] on usb-0000:00:02.1-1.3.1/input3
2. Open Notepad and make short circuit on a key
Connect pads of K01 and D01 with tweezer or papler clip like pic below. You will see 'm' is registered on Notepad. This indicates your PCB is likely to work well.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/oaxZmrBl.jpg)
If your PCB doesn't work as described above it may have fault, post your problem in this thread.
Assembly
See BlueNalgene's this post also.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=75491.msg1991884#msg1991884
1. Diode polarity
Diode has polarity and won't work if you solder it reversely. Diode has two leads, cathode and anode, you can discrimitate them by cathode mark on it. Black marking side of diode is cathode lead and cathode should be soldered on square land while anode on round land.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/mhQrQXkh.jpg)
2. Soldering diodes
Don't solder diodes all at once, you should assemble some and test them at first to avoid losing your time in vain.
Solder just a few diodes and check if they work correctly by short circuit like pic below. You will see the key only is registered on your OS, use Notepad, or tools like AquaKeyTest, EK SwitchHitter or xev.
AquaKeyTest: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=34670.msg641440#msg641440
EK SwitchHitter: https://elitekeyboards.com/switchhitter.php
xev: http://www.x.org/archive/X11R7.7/doc/man/man1/xev.1.xhtmlShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/nHHqDlLl.jpg)
Of course, you should plug off PCB before soldering :D
SMT diode
TBD
3. Soldering switches
Again, don't solder switches all at once, you should test them occasionally during assembly. At this point testing is easy, just plug in, press a switch and see with one of softwares above.
4. Test all swtiches
After assembly is completed check if all switches work correctly with default firmware. Don't program controller with your firmware and don't change keymap until this test is finished. Your own firmware or keymap will make test/debug process difficult.
Program Controller
You can program(flash) firmware into controller via USB DFU protocol.
1. Program mode
To enter program mode(start DFU bootloader) hook up to USB port and press tiny push button on bottom side of PCB.
2. Software tool
Then you can program controller using your favorite software tool. Controller(MCU) of the PCB is ATmega32u2, you will have to designate it in your tool like FLIP or dfu-programmer.
FLIP: http://www.atmel.com/tools/FLIP.aspx
dfu-programmer: http://dfu-programmer.github.io/
With dfu-programmer you can run it like below in command lineCode: [Select]dfu-programmer atmega32u2 erase --force
You may need to prepend 'sudo' to these in Linux and Mac OSX.
dfu-programmer atmega32u2 flash <your_firmware.hex>
dfu-programmer atmega32u2 reset
As for how to use FLIP see BlueNalgene's this post, consult with its help files or search on net.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=75491.msg1993990#msg1993990
Also see this.
https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard/blob/master/tmk_core/doc/build.md#program-controller
Troubleshoot
FLIP: AtLibUsbDfu.dll not found
Remove current driver and re-install one FLIP provides from DeviceManager of WIndows. http://imgur.com/a/bnwzy (Thanks, a-c)
Got mine today and it's all finished already. Comp whites and aekii caps. It's pretty great. Need to get a case and a better/hhkber layout programmed in though.
So clicky.
Pics ? ;D
Mine arrived at the office over the weekend, so I'm just now getting around to assembling the first one. I decided to start with my blue powdercoated HHKB plate with Matias Clicks. Everything went together fine except for the Matias stabilizers. Is anyone else having trouble with the Matias stabs and Badwrench's mods?The wires are incompatible. the plastic mx stabs seem to be fine though.
Ok, so I'm not crazy. I must have missed that part up until now. I was able to bend and clip some of the 2U wires to work, now I just need to do something for the spacebar.Mine arrived at the office over the weekend, so I'm just now getting around to assembling the first one. I decided to start with my blue powdercoated HHKB plate with Matias Clicks. Everything went together fine except for the Matias stabilizers. Is anyone else having trouble with the Matias stabs and Badwrench's mods?The wires are incompatible. the plastic mx stabs seem to be fine though.
What tool can I use to flash firmware? I'm on OSX running 10.10.5Try FLIP on virtualbox or parallels VM and let us know whether it works or not if you have time enough. It would be nice for community to know.
The FLIP tool only has downloads for windows and linux
Ok, so I'm not crazy. I must have missed that part up until now. I was able to bend and clip some of the 2U wires to work, now I just need to do something for the spacebar.Mine arrived at the office over the weekend, so I'm just now getting around to assembling the first one. I decided to start with my blue powdercoated HHKB plate with Matias Clicks. Everything went together fine except for the Matias stabilizers. Is anyone else having trouble with the Matias stabs and Badwrench's mods?The wires are incompatible. the plastic mx stabs seem to be fine though.
What tool can I use to flash firmware? I'm on OSX running 10.10.5
The FLIP tool only has downloads for windows and linux
The Cherry 2U stab wires are too tall and the "fingers" don't reach far enough back in. This is because Alps-style stabilizer clips are located more outward and rearward than the Cherry-style clips used on all SP caps.Ok, so I'm not crazy. I must have missed that part up until now. I was able to bend and clip some of the 2U wires to work, now I just need to do something for the spacebar.Mine arrived at the office over the weekend, so I'm just now getting around to assembling the first one. I decided to start with my blue powdercoated HHKB plate with Matias Clicks. Everything went together fine except for the Matias stabilizers. Is anyone else having trouble with the Matias stabs and Badwrench's mods?The wires are incompatible. the plastic mx stabs seem to be fine though.
Ok I thought I was going crazy as well. What does this bend and lip mod look like? And will we have to do the same with Alpine Winter? Can we get away with a cherry 2u stab and have it work?
What tool can I use to flash firmware? I'm on OSX running 10.10.5
The FLIP tool only has downloads for windows and linux
try http://dfu-programmer.github.io (http://dfu-programmer.github.io)
brew install dfu-programmer
The Cherry 2U stab wires are too tall and the "fingers" don't reach far enough back in. This is because Alps-style stabilizer clips are located more outward and rearward than the Cherry-style clips used on all SP caps.Ok, so I'm not crazy. I must have missed that part up until now. I was able to bend and clip some of the 2U wires to work, now I just need to do something for the spacebar.Mine arrived at the office over the weekend, so I'm just now getting around to assembling the first one. I decided to start with my blue powdercoated HHKB plate with Matias Clicks. Everything went together fine except for the Matias stabilizers. Is anyone else having trouble with the Matias stabs and Badwrench's mods?The wires are incompatible. the plastic mx stabs seem to be fine though.
Ok I thought I was going crazy as well. What does this bend and lip mod look like? And will we have to do the same with Alpine Winter? Can we get away with a cherry 2u stab and have it work?
To make it work, unbend the fingers so you are left with a U-shaped wire, or more accurately a rectangle without a top side. Then make new bends to end up with shorter sides and longer fingers. You basically want the sides to be about 2/3 as tall as they started. You'll then have to clip the fingers to make room for the switch in the middle.
I did the whole mod using two pairs of needle nose pliers to bend and unbend the wires, and a wire nipper to clip the ends to size.
I wish I had some pictures but I am not going in to the office today, if I have time tomorrow I'll do it then.
Basically you are making a hybrid Alps/Cherry stab wire. Note that if you ever switch back to stock Alps caps or Tai Hao or something, the Matias wires should work just fine. So save any extras you end up with.The Cherry 2U stab wires are too tall and the "fingers" don't reach far enough back in. This is because Alps-style stabilizer clips are located more outward and rearward than the Cherry-style clips used on all SP caps.Ok, so I'm not crazy. I must have missed that part up until now. I was able to bend and clip some of the 2U wires to work, now I just need to do something for the spacebar.Mine arrived at the office over the weekend, so I'm just now getting around to assembling the first one. I decided to start with my blue powdercoated HHKB plate with Matias Clicks. Everything went together fine except for the Matias stabilizers. Is anyone else having trouble with the Matias stabs and Badwrench's mods?The wires are incompatible. the plastic mx stabs seem to be fine though.
Ok I thought I was going crazy as well. What does this bend and lip mod look like? And will we have to do the same with Alpine Winter? Can we get away with a cherry 2u stab and have it work?
To make it work, unbend the fingers so you are left with a U-shaped wire, or more accurately a rectangle without a top side. Then make new bends to end up with shorter sides and longer fingers. You basically want the sides to be about 2/3 as tall as they started. You'll then have to clip the fingers to make room for the switch in the middle.
I did the whole mod using two pairs of needle nose pliers to bend and unbend the wires, and a wire nipper to clip the ends to size.
I wish I had some pictures but I am not going in to the office today, if I have time tomorrow I'll do it then.
Ok... Yeah some pics would definitely help but I think I get what you are talking about. Will give it a whirl.
Has anyone else tried a stab wire on an AT101W spacebar? When I tried it, the fit was too tight.I quickly checked the spacebar wire and noticed that it seems to be rubbing against the front of the switch. Some stab wires have an extra couple of bends to make room for the switch, that may be what's needed here.
I wonder if this is intentional or something that Matias might want to correct in the future. It seems like good compatibility would benefit their sales.
The other thing I noticed, Blue, is that the powder coated plate is a little too thick for the Matias stab clips. I had to file down the "ears" on the wire clip side to make them fit snugly and not pop out.Yea that's the problem with powder coating - it's thick enough that you usually have to design around it (as far as keyboard parts go), especially for small jobs where the coating is applied manually. Having to do a little filing is worth it for that blue though! The plate will look so pretty with Alpine Winter! :)
Can't wait!!!The other thing I noticed, Blue, is that the powder coated plate is a little too thick for the Matias stab clips. I had to file down the "ears" on the wire clip side to make them fit snugly and not pop out.Yea that's the problem with powder coating - it's thick enough that you usually have to design around it (as far as keyboard parts go), especially for small jobs where the coating is applied manually. Having to do a little filing is worth it for that blue though! The plate will look so pretty with Alpine Winter! :)
The other thing I noticed, Blue, is that the powder coated plate is a little too thick for the Matias stab clips. I had to file down the "ears" on the wire clip side to make them fit snugly and not pop out.
The other thing I noticed, Blue, is that the powder coated plate is a little too thick for the Matias stab clips. I had to file down the "ears" on the wire clip side to make them fit snugly and not pop out.
That may have have just been luck of the draw. Mine popped in just equally as well as the non-coated plate. The powder coating person I used was told about the clearance and purposes of the cutouts and took pains to keep things within spec. Sorry if it didn't work out for all of them.
I had a dog of a time getting the matias clips to stick in my non-coated plate - it's like the plate was just too thick for them. I had no problems getting vintage stabs in the plate. Also, I wasn't able to use matias' wire on the right shift key, I ended up cannibalizing one from an old Alps board.
Overall not too big a deal, but I imagine those who don't have a couple old Alps boards lying around to borrow from might have issues.
Also, I'm noticing a really annoying ping sound when typing and using this case (Royal Glam wood). I imagine the wood is just a bit more resonant than the Tex aluminum I used on my round 2 hasu board. Anyone have a good recommendation on something I could stuff between the pcb and the case to reduce that ping sound a bit?
Also, I'm noticing a really annoying ping sound when typing and using this case (Royal Glam wood). I imagine the wood is just a bit more resonant than the Tex aluminum I used on my round 2 hasu board. Anyone have a good recommendation on something I could stuff between the pcb and the case to reduce that ping sound a bit?
I had a dog of a time getting the matias clips to stick in my non-coated plate - it's like the plate was just too thick for them. I had no problems getting vintage stabs in the plate. Also, I wasn't able to use matias' wire on the right shift key, I ended up cannibalizing one from an old Alps board.
Overall not too big a deal, but I imagine those who don't have a couple old Alps boards lying around to borrow from might have issues.
Also, I'm noticing a really annoying ping sound when typing and using this case (Royal Glam wood). I imagine the wood is just a bit more resonant than the Tex aluminum I used on my round 2 hasu board. Anyone have a good recommendation on something I could stuff between the pcb and the case to reduce that ping sound a bit?
Bummer about the stabs being difficult. The thickness of the plate is just on the outside edge of the specs for the Matias switches. Though I haven't seen a schematic of the stab parts from Matias, I expect they would have similar tolerances. What I find interesting is that these problems are reported with the stab clips and not the switches.
I also had a pinging issue with my cases. I used a generic Al case. I eliminated the sounds or minimized it below my hearing threshold by using vinyl wrap. I originally used some vinyl wrap on the bottom of the case because some users of the previous hasu runs reported shorting with the diodes on metallic cases. After discovering the sounds, I also put heat-shrunk vinyl wrap on the standoff areas where the PCB made contact with the case. If you don't have any wrap on hand, you might have some electrical tape. That might help by acting as a dampener between the PCB and the case.
Do you know which type of SMD diodes should be used instead of the stock included ones? I want to use the SMD ones to be sure that they wont short with an Alu case.
Do you know which type of SMD diodes should be used instead of the stock included ones? I want to use the SMD ones to be sure that they wont short with an Alu case.
The solder pads are designed for the SOD-123 footprint. While hasu's KiCAD files don't behave on my machine and I can't view the layout, in the .cmp file he uses "IdModule = keyboard_parts:D_SOD123_axial;"
Do you know which type of SMD diodes should be used instead of the stock included ones? I want to use the SMD ones to be sure that they wont short with an Alu case.
The solder pads are designed for the SOD-123 footprint. While hasu's KiCAD files don't behave on my machine and I can't view the layout, in the .cmp file he uses "IdModule = keyboard_parts:D_SOD123_axial;"
Thanks, i found these ones, but im going to wait and ask hasu just in case theres specific specs it requires.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/200-PCS-1N4148-1206-IN4148-SOD-123-SMD-SWITCHING-DIODE-/301210017692
SMT diode
You can use SMT(SMD) diodes instead of through hole(TH) devices. Its footprint is SOD123, I tested PCB with DIODES inc. 1N4148W.
Some cases have thick PCB supports(standoffs and beams?) which interfere with some of TH diodes and make short circuit. To avoid this you can use SMT diodes for them(D00, D10, D20, D22, D23, D24, D25, D26, D27, D30, D31, D36, D55, D63, D65, D70, D73). And you will have to tape on TH pads to prevent from shortcircuit.
Just got all my stuff
Thank you for running this bluenalgene - you run a tight shop
First time using alps and although I don't have any keycaps to try with them, quiet clicks feel amazing and way better than anything I've ever used
Just got all my stuffQuiet Clicks are underrated IMO. Probably because they are "clones." But I would say they are tied with Zealios for the best-feeling switches currently in production. When you factor in the fact that they are cheaper than Zealios and that buying old switches is always a gamble, they are probably the safest bet these days.
Thank you for running this bluenalgene - you run a tight shop
First time using alps and although I don't have any keycaps to try with them, quiet clicks feel amazing and way better than anything I've ever used
Just got all my stuffQuiet Clicks are underrated IMO. Probably because they are "clones." But I would say they are tied with Zealios for the best-feeling switches currently in production. When you factor in the fact that they are cheaper than Zealios and that buying old switches is always a gamble, they are probably the safest bet these days.
Thank you for running this bluenalgene - you run a tight shop
First time using alps and although I don't have any keycaps to try with them, quiet clicks feel amazing and way better than anything I've ever used
Delivery date unknown... Sigh...
Nah, I know exactly where it is - between Chicago and Oslo ;)
Just got all my stuffQuiet Clicks are underrated IMO. Probably because they are "clones." But I would say they are tied with Zealios for the best-feeling switches currently in production. When you factor in the fact that they are cheaper than Zealios and that buying old switches is always a gamble, they are probably the safest bet these days.
Thank you for running this bluenalgene - you run a tight shop
First time using alps and although I don't have any keycaps to try with them, quiet clicks feel amazing and way better than anything I've ever used
I like the "Quiet" Clicks way more then I thought I would. I totally expected to like Matias Clickys better, but the QC's just feel better to me.
Don't get me wrong. I do like the Clickys also, but if I had to choose one it would be the QC's.
Quiet Clicks are underrated IMO. Probably because they are "clones." But I would say they are tied with Zealios for the best-feeling switches currently in production. When you factor in the fact that they are cheaper than Zealios and that buying old switches is always a gamble, they are probably the safest bet these days.
Badwrench's modifiers were really not tight at all (at least for me) so I would imagine AW wont be too tight either. As for the HHKB spacebar, does anybody know of an Alps spacebar that will work with a HHKB layout?Show ImageQuiet Clicks are underrated IMO. Probably because they are "clones." But I would say they are tied with Zealios for the best-feeling switches currently in production. When you factor in the fact that they are cheaper than Zealios and that buying old switches is always a gamble, they are probably the safest bet these days.
Just got my stuff today and I was just thinking how similar the Quit Clicks felt to my Zealios. Perfect for me as they are my favored switches at the moment.
My pcb had been tested and the plate is nice and heavy and very... blue :cool: I'd say shockingly blue even at first. The stabs seem tight and rattle-y, but maybe some lube will help. I was going to put on these cheapo double-shots until I realized the spacebar wouldn't fit the hhkb laybout, and Alps keycap are tight as f***. Seriously, I'd rather put on Alpine Winter in the first place and then pray I never have to take it off.
(http://i.imgur.com/qV8hZval.jpg) (http://imgur.com/qV8hZva)
(http://i.imgur.com/HIlA0sXl.jpg) (http://imgur.com/HIlA0sX)
The 6U AW spacebar will work with HHKBBadwrench's modifiers were really not tight at all (at least for me) so I would imagine AW wont be too tight either. As for the HHKB spacebar, does anybody know of an Alps spacebar that will work with a HHKB layout?Show ImageQuiet Clicks are underrated IMO. Probably because they are "clones." But I would say they are tied with Zealios for the best-feeling switches currently in production. When you factor in the fact that they are cheaper than Zealios and that buying old switches is always a gamble, they are probably the safest bet these days.
Just got my stuff today and I was just thinking how similar the Quit Clicks felt to my Zealios. Perfect for me as they are my favored switches at the moment.
My pcb had been tested and the plate is nice and heavy and very... blue :cool: I'd say shockingly blue even at first. The stabs seem tight and rattle-y, but maybe some lube will help. I was going to put on these cheapo double-shots until I realized the spacebar wouldn't fit the hhkb laybout, and Alps keycap are tight as f***. Seriously, I'd rather put on Alpine Winter in the first place and then pray I never have to take it off.
(http://i.imgur.com/qV8hZval.jpg) (http://imgur.com/qV8hZva)
(http://i.imgur.com/HIlA0sXl.jpg) (http://imgur.com/HIlA0sX)
Oh great, now I have to kick myself for not getting a second AW set :pThe 6U AW spacebar will work with HHKBBadwrench's modifiers were really not tight at all (at least for me) so I would imagine AW wont be too tight either. As for the HHKB spacebar, does anybody know of an Alps spacebar that will work with a HHKB layout?Show ImageQuiet Clicks are underrated IMO. Probably because they are "clones." But I would say they are tied with Zealios for the best-feeling switches currently in production. When you factor in the fact that they are cheaper than Zealios and that buying old switches is always a gamble, they are probably the safest bet these days.
Just got my stuff today and I was just thinking how similar the Quit Clicks felt to my Zealios. Perfect for me as they are my favored switches at the moment.
My pcb had been tested and the plate is nice and heavy and very... blue :cool: I'd say shockingly blue even at first. The stabs seem tight and rattle-y, but maybe some lube will help. I was going to put on these cheapo double-shots until I realized the spacebar wouldn't fit the hhkb laybout, and Alps keycap are tight as f***. Seriously, I'd rather put on Alpine Winter in the first place and then pray I never have to take it off.
(http://i.imgur.com/qV8hZval.jpg) (http://imgur.com/qV8hZva)
(http://i.imgur.com/HIlA0sXl.jpg) (http://imgur.com/HIlA0sX)
Badwrench's modifiers were really not tight at all (at least for me) so I would imagine AW wont be too tight either. As for the HHKB spacebar, does anybody know of an Alps spacebar that will work with a HHKB layout?
(http://i.imgur.com/qV8hZval.jpg) (http://imgur.com/qV8hZva)
I love quiet clicks as a "daily driver" keyswitch, and will most likely put them on all of the keyboards that I think I'll be using often. Maybe once I try out orange switches I'll like them better, but as njbair said buying old switches are always a gamble. Considering it took me an extraordinarily long time to get my SKCM blues to feel consistent with one another, it's nice to know quiet clicks will always feel crisp and uniform.
Alps twins!Show ImageQuiet Clicks are underrated IMO. Probably because they are "clones." But I would say they are tied with Zealios for the best-feeling switches currently in production. When you factor in the fact that they are cheaper than Zealios and that buying old switches is always a gamble, they are probably the safest bet these days.
Just got my stuff today and I was just thinking how similar the Quit Clicks felt to my Zealios. Perfect for me as they are my favored switches at the moment.
My pcb had been tested and the plate is nice and heavy and very... blue :cool: I'd say shockingly blue even at first. The stabs seem tight and rattle-y, but maybe some lube will help. I was going to put on these cheapo double-shots until I realized the spacebar wouldn't fit the hhkb laybout, and Alps keycap are tight as f***. Seriously, I'd rather put on Alpine Winter in the first place and then pray I never have to take it off.
(http://i.imgur.com/qV8hZval.jpg) (http://imgur.com/qV8hZva)
(http://i.imgur.com/HIlA0sXl.jpg) (http://imgur.com/HIlA0sX)
Alps twins!Show ImageQuiet Clicks are underrated IMO. Probably because they are "clones." But I would say they are tied with Zealios for the best-feeling switches currently in production. When you factor in the fact that they are cheaper than Zealios and that buying old switches is always a gamble, they are probably the safest bet these days.
Just got my stuff today and I was just thinking how similar the Quit Clicks felt to my Zealios. Perfect for me as they are my favored switches at the moment.
My pcb had been tested and the plate is nice and heavy and very... blue :cool: I'd say shockingly blue even at first. The stabs seem tight and rattle-y, but maybe some lube will help. I was going to put on these cheapo double-shots until I realized the spacebar wouldn't fit the hhkb laybout, and Alps keycap are tight as f***. Seriously, I'd rather put on Alpine Winter in the first place and then pray I never have to take it off.
(http://i.imgur.com/qV8hZval.jpg) (http://imgur.com/qV8hZva)
(http://i.imgur.com/HIlA0sXl.jpg) (http://imgur.com/HIlA0sX)
I just barely made it myself. I originally ordered two kits, but spent the rest of the buy window debating a third one in HHKB with blue powder coat. I ended up adding one to my order right at the end of the buy, and as it happens it was the first one I chose to assemble.Alps twins!Show ImageQuiet Clicks are underrated IMO. Probably because they are "clones." But I would say they are tied with Zealios for the best-feeling switches currently in production. When you factor in the fact that they are cheaper than Zealios and that buying old switches is always a gamble, they are probably the safest bet these days.
Just got my stuff today and I was just thinking how similar the Quit Clicks felt to my Zealios. Perfect for me as they are my favored switches at the moment.
My pcb had been tested and the plate is nice and heavy and very... blue :cool: I'd say shockingly blue even at first. The stabs seem tight and rattle-y, but maybe some lube will help. I was going to put on these cheapo double-shots until I realized the spacebar wouldn't fit the hhkb laybout, and Alps keycap are tight as f***. Seriously, I'd rather put on Alpine Winter in the first place and then pray I never have to take it off.
(http://i.imgur.com/qV8hZval.jpg) (http://imgur.com/qV8hZva)
(http://i.imgur.com/HIlA0sXl.jpg) (http://imgur.com/HIlA0sX)
HNNGH! So feeling the error of my ways in not getting a HHKB plate, and not getting blue. Anyone have a HHKB plate they'd like to trade for an Infinity plate?
Alps twins!
My goodness I am kicking myself for not getting a painted plate.
My goodness I am kicking myself for not getting a painted plate.
+1 Same here. I don't know what I was thinking.
A moment of silence for an anonymous INTL participant. The package did not make it to him intact, and his plate did not arrive. :(
I hope this is the only one.
...and Alps keycap are tight as f***. Seriously, I'd rather put on Alpine Winter in the first place and then pray I never have to take it off.
A moment of silence for an anonymous INTL participant. The package did not make it to him intact, and his plate did not arrive. :(
I hope this is the only one.
Damn that sucks. Sorry to hear that.Show Image(http://i.giphy.com/ToMjGplxKnHKanBqb72.gif)
A moment of silence for an anonymous INTL participant. The package did not make it to him intact, and his plate did not arrive. :(
I hope this is the only one.
Damn that sucks. Sorry to hear that.Show Image(http://i.giphy.com/ToMjGplxKnHKanBqb72.gif)Show Image(https://49.media.tumblr.com/b30e951cc688293950d7db80dfd83140/tumblr_mku6266ycG1s5ty3yo1_500.gif)
Am also having issues with the Matias stabiizers - the right shift wire seems to be too short for where the clips are mounted in the plate. Anyone had success bending this one to fit? I haven't even tried to see if it works with the keycap yet, I need to solder my diodes first. Just playing around with the setup.
A moment of silence for an anonymous INTL participant. The package did not make it to him intact, and his plate did not arrive. :(
I hope this is the only one.
Am also having issues with the Matias stabiizers - the right shift wire seems to be too short for where the clips are mounted in the plate. Anyone had success bending this one to fit? I haven't even tried to see if it works with the keycap yet, I need to solder my diodes first. Just playing around with the setup.
I'm having the same issueShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/hktSD0H.jpg)
Am also having issues with the Matias stabiizers - the right shift wire seems to be too short for where the clips are mounted in the plate. Anyone had success bending this one to fit? I haven't even tried to see if it works with the keycap yet, I need to solder my diodes first. Just playing around with the setup.
I'm having the same issueShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/hktSD0H.jpg)
How do you guys get those stab inserts into the plate from the top? Do you attach them to the stab wire first?Tweezers.
How do you guys get those stab inserts into the plate from the top? Do you attach them to the stab wire first?Tweezers.
How do you guys get those stab inserts into the plate from the top? Do you attach them to the stab wire first?Tweezers.
I place the front...hook inside the plate while holding them with tweezers, then force the back of the insert down with a small flathead screwdriver.
So given that I now realize I was a dope for not getting a blue plate - does anyone have suggestions on how to make one blue?
As far as I know, there isn't anywhere around me that does powdercoating....how janky is spray paint gonna be? How likely will I be to jack up the tolerances for mounting the switches. Anyone got ideas on how to proceed?
So given that I now realize I was a dope for not getting a blue plate - does anyone have suggestions on how to make one blue?You need to apply a coat of primer first, paint doesn't stick well when used directly over metal. And you can tape the parts of the plate where dimensions are crucial before applying primer/paint.
As far as I know, there isn't anywhere around me that does powdercoating....how janky is spray paint gonna be? How likely will I be to jack up the tolerances for mounting the switches. Anyone got ideas on how to proceed?
So given that I now realize I was a dope for not getting a blue plate - does anyone have suggestions on how to make one blue?You need to apply a coat of primer first, paint doesn't stick well when used directly over metal. And you can tape the parts of the plate where dimensions are crucial before applying primer/paint.
As far as I know, there isn't anywhere around me that does powdercoating....how janky is spray paint gonna be? How likely will I be to jack up the tolerances for mounting the switches. Anyone got ideas on how to proceed?
With the brushed surface of these plates, I'm wondering if you would need to bother sanding first. You also don't really need to worry about painting the bottom, unless you really want to, since it will likely be hidden inside the case.So given that I now realize I was a dope for not getting a blue plate - does anyone have suggestions on how to make one blue?You need to apply a coat of primer first, paint doesn't stick well when used directly over metal. And you can tape the parts of the plate where dimensions are crucial before applying primer/paint.
As far as I know, there isn't anywhere around me that does powdercoating....how janky is spray paint gonna be? How likely will I be to jack up the tolerances for mounting the switches. Anyone got ideas on how to proceed?
Primer, naturally. I suppose'd just tape over the switch holes...that might be tedious, but probably worth it.
I know some people sand before painting? I suppose I'll need to do that. Any notion of how coarse I'll want?
I've also read that some folks apply an enamel or clear coat after paint...assuming I've taped off the switch holes, I'll probably want to do that as well, neh?
Am also having issues with the Matias stabiizers - the right shift wire seems to be too short for where the clips are mounted in the plate. Anyone had success bending this one to fit? I haven't even tried to see if it works with the keycap yet, I need to solder my diodes first. Just playing around with the setup.
I'm having the same issueShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/hktSD0H.jpg)
Am also having issues with the Matias stabiizers - the right shift wire seems to be too short for where the clips are mounted in the plate. Anyone had success bending this one to fit? I haven't even tried to see if it works with the keycap yet, I need to solder my diodes first. Just playing around with the setup.I have this problem as well, will try and gently file down the clips when I get a chance. Sorry to hear about the international package, mine arrived to New Zealand in great shape.
My kit arrived at my doorstep in Canada earlier this week :)
I do have a few questions regarding the assembly:
1. Do you guys solder the diodes from the bottom side of the PCB, or from the top side? I think if I solder them from the top side (like a typical thru hold component) it will create small bumps which interfere and raise the plate off the PCB?
2. Do I need to be careful with the diodes being shorted by aluminum cases (the TEX case I have is anodized and shouldn't conductive). I can order SOD123 diodes and have access to a hot air rework station if it makes things easier / more elegant.
I'll report back with pics once its all assembled this weekend.
My kit arrived at my doorstep in Canada earlier this week :)
I do have a few questions regarding the assembly:
1. Do you guys solder the diodes from the bottom side of the PCB, or from the top side? I think if I solder them from the top side (like a typical thru hold component) it will create small bumps which interfere and raise the plate off the PCB?
2. Do I need to be careful with the diodes being shorted by aluminum cases (the TEX case I have is anodized and shouldn't conductive). I can order SOD123 diodes and have access to a hot air rework station if it makes things easier / more elegant.
I'll report back with pics once its all assembled this weekend.
The board is designed for the diodes to be on the bottom, although it is possible to solder them on top. Hasu recommends soldering from bottom.
It's possible to experience shorts with an aluminum case. I had shorts with my TEX case, but I resolved it by insulating the case with electrical tape.
Thanks for the advice! Insulating tape is a great idea.
Just to to clarify, of course I will place the diodes on the bottom of the PCB. However, should I apply solder at the bottom, or from the top side (as its usually done with thru hole)?
Pssst, hey Alps fans:
JANUARY 2016 GEEK HACK DOUBLE SHOT GROUP BUY (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=78489.0)
does anybody have any idea why the keymap editor (http://www.tmk-kbd.com/tmk_keyboard/editor/alps64/index.html) doesn't generate the hex file of the layout i created? all the hex files are standard ansi layoutnevermind... got it working. if this is an issue for anybody else in the future, it's not a problem with hasu's site - it was my own error. "erase target device memory," and then "program target device memory," and then click "start application."
Wooooooooooo! Got mine today!have fun with it! this was the first time i used a soldering iron to solder something and it went without a hitch
does anybody have any idea why the keymap editor (http://www.tmk-kbd.com/tmk_keyboard/editor/alps64/index.html) doesn't generate the hex file of the layout i created? all the hex files are standard ansi layoutnevermind... got it working. if this is an issue for anybody else in the future, it's not a problem with hasu's site - it was my own error. "erase target device memory," and then "program target device memory," and then click "start application."
also, thanks for running this blue. the aek ii that the switches, caps, and stabs were harvested from has a lot more significance because of recent real-life events, and being able to use them every day rather than allowing the original keyboard to collect dust in a closet means a lot
Mine arrived safely today. I appreciate the packing effort :thumb:that's an alps-mx converter, friend! put it in an alps switch and then attach your favorite mx artisan key
But, seriously blue, what am I meant to do with one stab insert? ;DShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/dP2hrwZ.jpg?1)
lol
Not complaining, you are my Alps hero!
Well well well! Seems I missed out on the details of this little extra - can't wait to test that out, cheers Blue!Mine arrived safely today. I appreciate the packing effort :thumb:that's an alps-mx converter, friend! put it in an alps switch and then attach your favorite mx artisan key
But, seriously blue, what am I meant to do with one stab insert? ;DShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/dP2hrwZ.jpg?1)
lol
Not complaining, you are my Alps hero!
Am also having issues with the Matias stabiizers - the right shift wire seems to be too short for where the clips are mounted in the plate. Anyone had success bending this one to fit? I haven't even tried to see if it works with the keycap yet, I need to solder my diodes first. Just playing around with the setup.
I'm having the same issueShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/hktSD0H.jpg)
If the matias 2.75x stab wire is the correct length for the right shift key on the Dell layout then I think we can just cut a small notch out of the plastic on either side of the stab mounts and it should be fine.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/snnBMSs.png)
Well well well! Seems I missed out on the details of this little extra - can't wait to test that out, cheers Blue!Mine arrived safely today. I appreciate the packing effort :thumb:that's an alps-mx converter, friend! put it in an alps switch and then attach your favorite mx artisan key
But, seriously blue, what am I meant to do with one stab insert? ;DShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/dP2hrwZ.jpg?1)
lol
Not complaining, you are my Alps hero!
Well well well! Seems I missed out on the details of this little extra - can't wait to test that out, cheers Blue!Mine arrived safely today. I appreciate the packing effort :thumb:that's an alps-mx converter, friend! put it in an alps switch and then attach your favorite mx artisan key
But, seriously blue, what am I meant to do with one stab insert? ;DShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/dP2hrwZ.jpg?1)
lol
Not complaining, you are my Alps hero!
Just be careful when using these as the shapeways stuff isn't that precise
I cracked an MX stem on an SA key but trying to jam it in
Well well well! Seems I missed out on the details of this little extra - can't wait to test that out, cheers Blue!Mine arrived safely today. I appreciate the packing effort :thumb:that's an alps-mx converter, friend! put it in an alps switch and then attach your favorite mx artisan key
But, seriously blue, what am I meant to do with one stab insert? ;DShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/dP2hrwZ.jpg?1)
lol
Not complaining, you are my Alps hero!
Just be careful when using these as the shapeways stuff isn't that precise
I cracked an MX stem on an SA key but trying to jam it in
AAAAAH OH NO! I fail.
Oh the cap still works fine - just a hairline fracture on the stem! :D
Thanks for including it! It would be great if someone like JTK could start making them seeing as they are already doing mx to topre sliders
Just started assembling and ran into a bit of trouble when testing the diodes (before installing switches). hopefully someone can help me fix it, I bet its something really minor screwing everything up.
The following keys are not testing correctly: K35 (~), K34 (tab), K33 (A), K37 (1), K64 (Y), K74 (J), K75 (I), K76 ( 8 ), K77 (9).
I have attached some pictures of EK switch hitter and my soldering job. A couple things that may be important:
** All diodes are showing a voltage drop of ~0.7 , including the keys that are not working
** I have attempted to replace the diodes for K74 (J), K75 (I), K76 ( 8 ), K77 (9) with fresh diodes. I did a poor soldering job in the pictures because I ran out of wick, but the voltage drop tests fine.
I might be blind and missing it, but is there any known issues with the pcb having key chatter? (That's what double/triple/etc presses are called, right?) I've reflowed everything a few times, but I get a handful of keys that like activating a few times per press.This is way more likely to be a switch problem than a PCB problem. You can also adjust the debounce time in TMK, in the file config.h, #define DEBOUNCE. It's normally 5; if you increase this then the firmware will wait more for the keys to settle.
I've found one key on my HHKB build that is chattering. I'm going to try desoldering and replacing that switch, since it's just that one. Hopefully that will fix it.I might be blind and missing it, but is there any known issues with the pcb having key chatter? (That's what double/triple/etc presses are called, right?) I've reflowed everything a few times, but I get a handful of keys that like activating a few times per press.This is way more likely to be a switch problem than a PCB problem. You can also adjust the debounce time in TMK, in the file config.h, #define DEBOUNCE. It's normally 5; if you increase this then the firmware will wait more for the keys to settle.
How do I install the stabs? I'm sure there's a guide in this thread somewhere, but it's a REALLY long thread...
Right, but there are several different pieces, and how do I know what is the top?
OK, new problem. TMK this time. KEYMAP() requires 64 arguments, but I've got 61 keys on the board. I tried inserting three TRNS at the end, but that didn't work, it just screwed up my map and made Backspace into Tab...
OK, new problem. TMK this time. KEYMAP() requires 64 arguments, but I've got 61 keys on the board. I tried inserting three TRNS at the end, but that didn't work, it just screwed up my map and made Backspace into Tab...
Nah, it's an AT101W plate, so standard Poker. But I'll try.
However, that doesn't explain why backspace thinks it's a tab-key, tab thinks it's an A and so on down the line...
For those of you using the matias/alps stab wires and clips with any of the SP sets (my modifier pack or Alpine winter), here are the specs for the right shift wire. These were the specs I used for mounting my set on a V60.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=70817.msg1917032#msg1917032 (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=70817.msg1917032#msg1917032)
I hope this helps some of you.
If a 7u wire is what you need I have one, you can have it. Let me know.
How does the 7u wire look? Does it wrap back around from the outside? This one seems to go into the stablizer inserts from the inside.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Vjn2SXV.jpg)
notched out either side of the little plastic stab inserts and now the 2.75x matias stab wire fits fine :thumb:
(http://i.imgur.com/rJeY0j4.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/rJeY0j4.jpg)
notched out either side of the little plastic stab inserts and now the 2.75x matias stab wire fits fine :thumb:
(http://i.imgur.com/rJeY0j4.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/rJeY0j4.jpg)
Thanks digi, this worked for me! Instead of using an Xacto knife and potentially losing my precious fingers with which I use to type, I used my flush cutters instead, and they sliced through the soft plastic clips just fine. Got everything soldered and installed within an hour or two! Featuring Taihao Dolch, cheap plastic case from aliexpress, and some bonus alps caps from bcredbottle!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/8PMcq3j.jpg)
http://imgur.com/a/L2ZhQ
What size of solder should I be using? Leaded or unleaded?
What size of solder should I be using? Leaded or unleaded?Leaded is easier to work with. The only reason not to use leaded solder is the environmental concern, which is negligible for hobbyists. I like 0.06" for keyboard work. Any smaller is too flimsy and takes too long to flow into the larger solder points.
What size of solder should I be using? Leaded or unleaded?
Either one will work. Lead-free requires higher temperature to work with. I guess you have to be a little more careful not to lift the pads but I can't imagine it's that much more of a risk. See this (https://www.paceworldwide.com/pacenter/soldering/lead-free-vs.-leaded-solder) for more info.
What size of solder should I be using? Leaded or unleaded?Leaded is easier to work with. The only reason not to use leaded solder is the environmental concern, which is negligible for hobbyists. I like 0.06" for keyboard work. Any smaller is too flimsy and takes too long to flow into the larger solder points.
Here's what I'm using lately: Alpha Fry AT-31604 60-40 Rosin Core Solder (4 Ounces) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00030AP48/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_IUfLwb72QEE39
For SMD, sure you want smaller. But you'll be there all day trying to solder key switches with .032".What size of solder should I be using? Leaded or unleaded?Leaded is easier to work with. The only reason not to use leaded solder is the environmental concern, which is negligible for hobbyists. I like 0.06" for keyboard work. Any smaller is too flimsy and takes too long to flow into the larger solder points.
Here's what I'm using lately: Alpha Fry AT-31604 60-40 Rosin Core Solder (4 Ounces) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00030AP48/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_IUfLwb72QEE39
0.06"? I'm using 0.031" and I was considering getting a smaller diameter to work with SMD controllers. I would hate to go any thicker for SMD work. YMMV.
Took me a while to get to building, but it was worth the wait!
I used white ALPS from a DATADESK MAC 101E keyboard, with keycaps from an AEK II until Alpine Winter comes. Case is a Lambo 60% by iQunix obtained from Massdrop. Programming was a breeze with the online tool, much easier than messing with the TMK in my linux virtual machine (though satisfying to compile your own firmware using TMK, it is a bit of a hassle).
The only thing I'm not completely satisfied with is the space bar sound, it makes quite a racket. I ended up using some adhesive pads for sticking things to walls to try and dampen the downstroke; it's much better now, but I think the space bar is still rubbing a little on the case. Once Alpine Winter comes I'll look into it more, possibly flipping the space bar could help.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/QyQJRc8.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/VGH1WdD.jpg)
Some more pictures here of the build process if anyone's interested: http://imgur.com/a/MC54R (http://imgur.com/a/MC54R)
I got some 0.05 and some 0.032 solder from a friend. Hope it works :)
I got some 0.05 and some 0.032 solder from a friend. Hope it works :)
The first ever thing I soldered was an Alps64 with a $15 soldering iron so don't sweat it too much. As it turns out soldering is really easy. (just make sure you have good ventilation if you are using leaded solder.
I got some 0.05 and some 0.032 solder from a friend. Hope it works :)
The first ever thing I soldered was an Alps64 with a $15 soldering iron so don't sweat it too much. As it turns out soldering is really easy. (just make sure you have good ventilation if you are using leaded solder.
I'm pretty sure I've got a contender for ugliest kb of the litter!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/fjWaJp6.jpg?1)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/tiyi0Ox.jpg)
I went with the shiny, sunfaded alphas because they're thicker than the Tai Haos. Even though I prefer ziptyze's case, green didn't fit with the creamy, olivetti, badwrench-y color scheme. Poker II case for now.
I managed to fractured a few of the stabilizer inserts in the caps putting in the Matias stab hangers (sorry about the terminology). Anyone else have trouble with them?
The package finally arrived from the shipping forwarder company. The plate have some sharp burrs (is that the correct word?) that will need to be filed down, but everything looks fine.
And I got an elephant. :P
Pics only on Saturday, when I will have time to solder the PCB.
I got some 0.05 and some 0.032 solder from a friend. Hope it works :)
The first ever thing I soldered was an Alps64 with a $15 soldering iron so don't sweat it too much. As it turns out soldering is really easy. (just make sure you have good ventilation if you are using leaded solder.
High five! My first solder job was an Alps64 too! My lust for a smaller version of the AEKII I found at work was the catalyst for getting me into this hobby, actually.
No ragrets!
Moreis there any way to get solder out of a pth with desoldering braid?I got some 0.05 and some 0.032 solder from a friend. Hope it works :)
The first ever thing I soldered was an Alps64 with a $15 soldering iron so don't sweat it too much. As it turns out soldering is really easy. (just make sure you have good ventilation if you are using leaded solder.
High five! My first solder job was an Alps64 too! My lust for a smaller version of the AEKII I found at work was the catalyst for getting me into this hobby, actually.
No ragrets!
oh yeah, i was definitely surprised at how easy it was to solder - spent a couple weeks researching techniques and reading up on various keyboard soldering guides, only to find out that it was so much easier than expected. desoldering, on the other hand, is such a humongous pain in the ass, but it may just be because i'm using a $5 desoldering pump my friend bought from radioshack.
Moreis there any way to get solder out of a pth with desoldering braid?I got some 0.05 and some 0.032 solder from a friend. Hope it works :)
The first ever thing I soldered was an Alps64 with a $15 soldering iron so don't sweat it too much. As it turns out soldering is really easy. (just make sure you have good ventilation if you are using leaded solder.
High five! My first solder job was an Alps64 too! My lust for a smaller version of the AEKII I found at work was the catalyst for getting me into this hobby, actually.
No ragrets!
oh yeah, i was definitely surprised at how easy it was to solder - spent a couple weeks researching techniques and reading up on various keyboard soldering guides, only to find out that it was so much easier than expected. desoldering, on the other hand, is such a humongous pain in the ass, but it may just be because i'm using a $5 desoldering pump my friend bought from radioshack.
What I would recommend with through-hole soldered connection is to use both the pump and braid. First, tin your soldering iron with some fresh solder (leaded if possible). Apply heat and suck out the solder in the hole. This should get most of it. Then you move on to the braid. For this step, tin your iron again, and then wipe it. You want to have flux on the tip so that everything heats well. Place the braid over the hole and apply the tip to the area of interest. Don't 'poke' the tip into the hole to get the solder out. What you want is to apply even heat from the side of the iron, and allow the flux to heat everything and draw it towards the iron.
Moreis there any way to get solder out of a pth with desoldering braid?I got some 0.05 and some 0.032 solder from a friend. Hope it works :)
The first ever thing I soldered was an Alps64 with a $15 soldering iron so don't sweat it too much. As it turns out soldering is really easy. (just make sure you have good ventilation if you are using leaded solder.
High five! My first solder job was an Alps64 too! My lust for a smaller version of the AEKII I found at work was the catalyst for getting me into this hobby, actually.
No ragrets!
oh yeah, i was definitely surprised at how easy it was to solder - spent a couple weeks researching techniques and reading up on various keyboard soldering guides, only to find out that it was so much easier than expected. desoldering, on the other hand, is such a humongous pain in the ass, but it may just be because i'm using a $5 desoldering pump my friend bought from radioshack.
What I would recommend with through-hole soldered connection is to use both the pump and braid. First, tin your soldering iron with some fresh solder (leaded if possible). Apply heat and suck out the solder in the hole. This should get most of it. Then you move on to the braid. For this step, tin your iron again, and then wipe it. You want to have flux on the tip so that everything heats well. Place the braid over the hole and apply the tip to the area of interest. Don't 'poke' the tip into the hole to get the solder out. What you want is to apply even heat from the side of the iron, and allow the flux to heat everything and draw it towards the iron.
i have some rosin flux - could i coat my soldering iron with that and then do the method you described? does the attractive properties of the flux work well enough to defy the solder's pull towards gravity? thanks for the tip. :))
I struggled and struggled with desoldering until I bought a proper desoldering gun
If you are serious about the hobby and intend on building and modding yours boards in the future I would highly recommend getting one - you can FULLY desolder a joint in <10 seconds whereas I struggled to do one joint in less than a minute with braid and/or the crappy suction pumps that come with many soldering kits
I struggled and struggled with desoldering until I bought a proper desoldering gun
If you are serious about the hobby and intend on building and modding yours boards in the future I would highly recommend getting one - you can FULLY desolder a joint in <10 seconds whereas I struggled to do one joint in less than a minute with braid and/or the crappy suction pumps that come with many soldering kits
I second this. I originally was going to use a desoldering braid, but quickly opted to use the desoldering station at work after trying to desolder one switch. The station at work had a soldering nozzle that melted the solder and then sucked it in with a pump. Literally less than 5 seconds for each pin, was so much easier.
I asked in the simple questions topic as well, but here goes:You should first diagnose where the problem is exactly. That means checking the connections with a multimeter: is there a connection between:
I effed up on the 1 key, and had to desolder it. (Only one of the leads from the switch was in the hole, the other had folded and was stuck between the PCB and the switch housing).
Only now the switch doesn't register after I replaced it. I think I simply tore out the 'cable' around the hole.
So, how do I fix this? I can think of two options, neither of which sound like fun, but I am NOT giving up!
Option 1: Use one of the three free switch positions for KC_1 in the keymap, and put a cable between the leads of the switch and the new position.
Option 2: Somehow redo the original trace on the PCB, or at least replace the connection with something else - just a copper wire?
You can build your own! (http://hackaday.com/2013/11/11/build-your-own-desoldering-station-on-the-cheap/)I struggled and struggled with desoldering until I bought a proper desoldering gun
If you are serious about the hobby and intend on building and modding yours boards in the future I would highly recommend getting one - you can FULLY desolder a joint in <10 seconds whereas I struggled to do one joint in less than a minute with braid and/or the crappy suction pumps that come with many soldering kits
I second this. I originally was going to use a desoldering braid, but quickly opted to use the desoldering station at work after trying to desolder one switch. The station at work had a soldering nozzle that melted the solder and then sucked it in with a pump. Literally less than 5 seconds for each pin, was so much easier.
i considered getting on briefly after seeing these posts, but after googling prices... is there a budget one you would recommend, swimmingbird?
You can build your own! (http://hackaday.com/2013/11/11/build-your-own-desoldering-station-on-the-cheap/)I struggled and struggled with desoldering until I bought a proper desoldering gun
If you are serious about the hobby and intend on building and modding yours boards in the future I would highly recommend getting one - you can FULLY desolder a joint in <10 seconds whereas I struggled to do one joint in less than a minute with braid and/or the crappy suction pumps that come with many soldering kits
I second this. I originally was going to use a desoldering braid, but quickly opted to use the desoldering station at work after trying to desolder one switch. The station at work had a soldering nozzle that melted the solder and then sucked it in with a pump. Literally less than 5 seconds for each pin, was so much easier.
i considered getting on briefly after seeing these posts, but after googling prices... is there a budget one you would recommend, swimmingbird?
I already built mine and I am happy, but I'm already ready for more haha.
I already built mine and I am happy, but I'm already ready for more haha.
Seconded here. Maybe a couple of us need to band together and open up an Alps/Matias DIY webstore.
I already built mine and I am happy, but I'm already ready for more haha.
Seconded here. Maybe a couple of us need to band together and open up an Alps/Matias DIY webstore.
What temp should I use? I picked up some 1.2mm (0.05) 60/40 leaded solder
does anybody have any idea why the keymap editor (http://www.tmk-kbd.com/tmk_keyboard/editor/alps64/index.html) doesn't generate the hex file of the layout i created? all the hex files are standard ansi layoutnevermind... got it working. if this is an issue for anybody else in the future, it's not a problem with hasu's site - it was my own error. "erase target device memory," and then "program target device memory," and then click "start application."
also, thanks for running this blue. the aek ii that the switches, caps, and stabs were harvested from has a lot more significance because of recent real-life events, and being able to use them every day rather than allowing the original keyboard to collect dust in a closet means a lot
Finished soldering, but some keys are actuating other keys.I'm just gonna take a wild guess that you've got some diodes soldered in backwards.
0 = 1-=(backs)
- = 1-=(backs)
o = op]q
caps = (caps)(esc),/
k = ka;(enter)
L = (tab)L'\
m = (lshift)m.(rshift)
, = (esc),'/
lwin = (lctrl)(ralt)(rwin)(rctrl)
menu = (lctrl)(ralt)(rwin)(rctrl)
Finished soldering, but some keys are actuating other keys.I'm just gonna take a wild guess that you've got some diodes soldered in backwards.
0 = 1-=(backs)
- = 1-=(backs)
o = op]q
caps = (caps)(esc),/
k = ka;(enter)
L = (tab)L'\
m = (lshift)m.(rshift)
, = (esc),'/
lwin = (lctrl)(ralt)(rwin)(rctrl)
menu = (lctrl)(ralt)(rwin)(rctrl)
Finished soldering, but some keys are actuating other keys.I'm just gonna take a wild guess that you've got some diodes soldered in backwards.
0 = 1-=(backs)
- = 1-=(backs)
o = op]q
caps = (caps)(esc),/
k = ka;(enter)
L = (tab)L'\
m = (lshift)m.(rshift)
, = (esc),'/
lwin = (lctrl)(ralt)(rwin)(rctrl)
menu = (lctrl)(ralt)(rwin)(rctrl)
tested the diodes before putting switches in, worked fine -_-
Finished soldering, but some keys are actuating other keys.I'm just gonna take a wild guess that you've got some diodes soldered in backwards.
0 = 1-=(backs)
- = 1-=(backs)
o = op]q
caps = (caps)(esc),/
k = ka;(enter)
L = (tab)L'\
m = (lshift)m.(rshift)
, = (esc),'/
lwin = (lctrl)(ralt)(rwin)(rctrl)
menu = (lctrl)(ralt)(rwin)(rctrl)
tested the diodes before putting switches in, worked fine -_-
Did everything work properly work when you tested the diodes? I can't imagine the problem would stem from when you installed the switches.
Finished soldering, but some keys are actuating other keys.I'm just gonna take a wild guess that you've got some diodes soldered in backwards.
0 = 1-=(backs)
- = 1-=(backs)
o = op]q
caps = (caps)(esc),/
k = ka;(enter)
L = (tab)L'\
m = (lshift)m.(rshift)
, = (esc),'/
lwin = (lctrl)(ralt)(rwin)(rctrl)
menu = (lctrl)(ralt)(rwin)(rctrl)
tested the diodes before putting switches in, worked fine -_-
Did everything work properly work when you tested the diodes? I can't imagine the problem would stem from when you installed the switches.
No misspresses with diodes only, it happened with the switches.
Finished soldering, but some keys are actuating other keys.I'm just gonna take a wild guess that you've got some diodes soldered in backwards.
0 = 1-=(backs)
- = 1-=(backs)
o = op]q
caps = (caps)(esc),/
k = ka;(enter)
L = (tab)L'\
m = (lshift)m.(rshift)
, = (esc),'/
lwin = (lctrl)(ralt)(rwin)(rctrl)
menu = (lctrl)(ralt)(rwin)(rctrl)
tested the diodes before putting switches in, worked fine -_-
Did everything work properly work when you tested the diodes? I can't imagine the problem would stem from when you installed the switches.
No misspresses with diodes only, it happened with the switches.
Shorting on your case? I saw similar behavior with my aluminum Tex until I insulated it.
Is there a picture showing how much of the RShift stab thingies to cut?
How do you load your own firmware? Every time I try to connect it wit flip it says "Could not open usb device". And yes, I'm putting it into programming mode.
IIRC you actually want the 32U2 for hasu's Alps board.How do you load your own firmware? Every time I try to connect it wit flip it says "Could not open usb device". And yes, I'm putting it into programming mode.
Check the Device Manager, if the keyboard shows up as an unknown device when you put it into programming mode with the reset button, you'll need to update the driver with the one provided by flip. Here's a guide on doing that: http://imgur.com/a/bnwzy (http://imgur.com/a/bnwzy)
How do you load your own firmware? Every time I try to connect it wit flip it says "Could not open usb device". And yes, I'm putting it into programming mode.
Check the Device Manager, if the keyboard shows up as an unknown device when you put it into programming mode with the reset button, you'll need to update the driver with the one provided by flip. Here's a guide on doing that: http://imgur.com/a/bnwzy (http://imgur.com/a/bnwzy)
Well since I'm probably the only person with a finished HHKB, including caps, I've got a minor issue to report.
I bent my own spacebar stabilizer wire to go with the Alps-style plate clips and Cherry-style cap clips. It was pretty easy to find the right size after a bit of trial and error. The spacebar works fine, except for a good deal of twist/rotation when the key is pressed down. This is because the Alps-style plate clips don't have nice little guide walls like the Costar-style stab clips do. Most Alps spacebars have that little plunger (a-la AEKII) to laterally stabilize the spacebar, but there's no spot for that on this plate nor the SP spacebar.
I'm still racking my brain trying to think of a solution for this, although I haven't devoted any time to actual testing. Perhaps somebody else has an idea I haven't thought of?
In hindsight it might have made sense to have pockets cut for both styles on the plate, although the extra holes would affect the look.Well since I'm probably the only person with a finished HHKB, including caps, I've got a minor issue to report.
I bent my own spacebar stabilizer wire to go with the Alps-style plate clips and Cherry-style cap clips. It was pretty easy to find the right size after a bit of trial and error. The spacebar works fine, except for a good deal of twist/rotation when the key is pressed down. This is because the Alps-style plate clips don't have nice little guide walls like the Costar-style stab clips do. Most Alps spacebars have that little plunger (a-la AEKII) to laterally stabilize the spacebar, but there's no spot for that on this plate nor the SP spacebar.
I'm still racking my brain trying to think of a solution for this, although I haven't devoted any time to actual testing. Perhaps somebody else has an idea I haven't thought of?
My at101w spacebar does have a lot of "play" to it as well, I havent been able to think about it yet tough, I've been just typing and listening...
Nice! What switches are you using and what case is that?
Can we get a round 2 of this GB? missed this gb because I don't know that alps is good :'(
Can we get a round 2 of this GB? missed this gb because I don't know that alps is good :'(
This was round 3...
Originally in the IC, Blue called this "Alps Party 3 (60%)" but I think the word play was too cumbersome.Can we get a round 2 of this GB? missed this gb because I don't know that alps is good :'(
This was round 3...
This was Round 1 for the "Party", no? O.o Round 3 for the PCBs maybe?
Originally in the IC, Blue called this "Alps Party 3 (60%)" but I think the word play was too cumbersome.
Anyway, **** it. This is Alps Party not Alps Semantics. Call it whatever you feel like. People will know.
Anyway, **** it. This is Alps Party not Alps Semantics. Call it whatever you feel like. People will know.
Wow, way to be a party pooper.
Here we were, all enjoying the party, talking semantics. But NOOOOO, BN doesn't like that...
Anyway, **** it. This is Alps Party not Alps Semantics. Call it whatever you feel like. People will know.
Wow, way to be a party pooper.
Here we were, all enjoying the party, talking semantics. But NOOOOO, BN doesn't like that...
In Soviet Alps, group buys you?
Sorry for busting up you're grammar Nazi Party.
So can I buy a set of this? :cool:
Open the round 4 of this with an sp keycaps too haha
Nooo OK I will wait. Need some redbull?Open the round 4 of this with an sp keycaps too haha
But I'm so tired :'(
I am very happy with my keyboard =). I'll post pics once I have a nicer looking keycap set haha.
So what is this keyboard called? If someone (keyboard enthusiast) asks me what it is, what should I say?
"Oh it is an alps64 hasu pcb paired with a bluenalgene plate?"
"Hannibal Keyboard?"
"Crossing the Alps?"
Anyone know?
I am very happy with my keyboard =). I'll post pics once I have a nicer looking keycap set haha.I imagine alps64 or just Alps Party, with the layout specified where relevant. For instance:
So what is this keyboard called? If someone (keyboard enthusiast) asks me what it is, what should I say?
"Oh it is an alps64 hasu pcb paired with a bluenalgene plate?"
"Hannibal Keyboard?"
"Crossing the Alps?"
Anyone know?
You know who's jealous of your keycaps? I am. They look lovely.
Once i get the plate cut into 60% size, this is what my first Alps64 build will look like :D :D The caps need some retrobrighting, after that they will look amazing.They already look amazing... :eek:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/WmfGhPM.jpg)
Just got my little adapter and my stablizers, thanks for the lovely GB BlueNalgene. Now to put a Clack on my Kingsaver :DBe careful, I found the adapter fit pretty tight, may want to sand it down a bit.
Be careful, I found the adapter fit pretty tight, may want to sand it down a bit.
Just got my little adapter and my stablizers, thanks for the lovely GB BlueNalgene. Now to put a Clack on my Kingsaver :D
Sigh. I need to solder in a new 'A' key. The current switch isn't very tactile :(
Sigh. I need to solder in a new 'A' key. The current switch isn't very tactile :(
Open the switch up before you replace anything. Tactileness (tactilitity?) can easily be fixed sometimes by just taking it apart and putting it back together, or by adjusting the click leaf.
Sigh. I need to solder in a new 'A' key. The current switch isn't very tactile :(
Open the switch up before you replace anything. Tactileness (tactilitity?) can easily be fixed sometimes by just taking it apart and putting it back together, or by adjusting the click leaf.
I would if I knew how... :p
Sigh. I need to solder in a new 'A' key. The current switch isn't very tactile :(
Open the switch up before you replace anything. Tactileness (tactilitity?) can easily be fixed sometimes by just taking it apart and putting it back together, or by adjusting the click leaf.
I would if I knew how... :p
:p
You don't even need to desolder the switch to do it!
Tactileness (tactilitity?)Tact.
OK. How do you program this thing?All the information about the PCB is here (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=69740.0). In particular, you can either compile TMK yourself, or use hasu's online thing (http://www.tmk-kbd.com/tmk_keyboard/editor/alps64/index.html) to get a firmware. For flashing, see the "Program Controller" section of the post linked above.
So I was here sitting at my desk at work (not really in the mood to work), and thought I still haven't shared a picture of the two boards I built.
Here is the one I'm using at work (sorry for the iPhone picture, but it's all I have with me)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Om9nFTB.jpg)
- Alps64 PCB
- AT101W (blue) plate
- Alps SKCM Brown (tactile)
- Z-Case (3D printed, blue)
- Tai Hao Olivette caps
My other build is more or less the same, the only differences being; the plate is not powder coated, it uses Matias quiet click switches, different color case (grey/silver), and Tai Hao Dolch caps
(If I remember I'll add a picture of it to this post when I get home tonight.)
I would just like to give another big thanks to BlueNalgene, hasu, JDCarpe, and anyone else that made this GB possible! :thumb: :thumb: :thumb:
But hey, what's up with that left Windows key? I don't recall having two different looking ones like that.
Loving all these boards!Oh golly, is the spring that messed up still?
Here's a little update on my a key.
(Attachment Link)
He's in a better place now.
Here's the new guy, so far, sogoodtactile!
(Attachment Link)
Can't wait for my z-case after seeing how great they look!
Yep. I've tried everything I could think of. By "better place" I meant my kitchen garbage can :pLoving all these boards!Oh golly, is the spring that messed up still?
Here's a little update on my a key.
(Attachment Link)
He's in a better place now.
Here's the new guy, so far, sogoodtactile!
(Attachment Link)
Can't wait for my z-case after seeing how great they look!
Yep. I've tried everything I could think of. By "better place" I meant my kitchen garbage can :pLoving all these boards!Oh golly, is the spring that messed up still?
Here's a little update on my a key.
(Attachment Link)
He's in a better place now.
Here's the new guy, so far, sogoodtactile!
(Attachment Link)
Can't wait for my z-case after seeing how great they look!
You can also see that one contact pin snapped completely in half.
For future me: Don't try to open Matias switces. Just spend the half-hour desoldering and getting all of the solder out of the hole and soldering in a new switch.
Yep. I've tried everything I could think of. By "better place" I meant my kitchen garbage can :pLoving all these boards!Oh golly, is the spring that messed up still?
Here's a little update on my a key.
(Attachment Link)
He's in a better place now.
Here's the new guy, so far, sogoodtactile!
(Attachment Link)
Can't wait for my z-case after seeing how great they look!
You can also see that one contact pin snapped completely in half.
For future me: Don't try to open Matias switces. Just spend the half-hour desoldering and getting all of the solder out of the hole and soldering in a new switch.
Half hour? Sounds like you need a desoldering pump. Once the iron is hot...removal is like a 10 second job.
Stupid question time. :D
I'm pretty sure I'm just derping, but on the off chance I'm not... were we supposed to get stabilizers with this buy? It's not a line item in the invoice, and I don't recall paying for them, but for some reason I seem to recall thinking that there wasn't anything I would need to buy outside of this GB (other than keycaps of course). Am I just being forgetful?
Stupid question time. :D
I'm pretty sure I'm just derping, but on the off chance I'm not... were we supposed to get stabilizers with this buy? It's not a line item in the invoice, and I don't recall paying for them, but for some reason I seem to recall thinking that there wasn't anything I would need to buy outside of this GB (other than keycaps of course). Am I just being forgetful?
It was a separate thread (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=75803.msg1885882) made by Blue for the stabs. I received them along with this GB in one pacakge though!
I got two sets (in case I totally mangle making a 6u wire), so I could hook you up if there is not better option (aka, someone inside the US) :thumb:
Stupid question time. :D
I'm pretty sure I'm just derping, but on the off chance I'm not... were we supposed to get stabilizers with this buy? It's not a line item in the invoice, and I don't recall paying for them, but for some reason I seem to recall thinking that there wasn't anything I would need to buy outside of this GB (other than keycaps of course). Am I just being forgetful?
It was a separate thread (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=75803.msg1885882) made by Blue for the stabs. I received them along with this GB in one pacakge though!
I got two sets (in case I totally mangle making a 6u wire), so I could hook you up if there is not better option (aka, someone inside the US) :thumb:
Well crap!! :| Haha. I don't know how I managed to miss that one... :(
WTB Alps stabilizers :-[
/me hangs head in shame
Well crap!! :| Haha. I don't know how I managed to miss that one... :(
WTB Alps stabilizers :-[
/me hangs head in shame
Too busy being a man of mystery, no doubt!
Well if no one can hook you up in a shorter time span, my 2nd set has your name on it :) I just won't be able to ship them out until I've got my alpine winter set to measure up the 6u I need to hand bend :thumb:
You can buy the same stab sets from Matias' website. Just costs a tad more.Well crap!! :| Haha. I don't know how I managed to miss that one... :(
WTB Alps stabilizers :-[
/me hangs head in shame
Too busy being a man of mystery, no doubt!
Well if no one can hook you up in a shorter time span, my 2nd set has your name on it :) I just won't be able to ship them out until I've got my alpine winter set to measure up the 6u I need to hand bend :thumb:
Hopefully it won't come to that, but thank you so much for the offer! :-*
Well crap!! :| Haha. I don't know how I managed to miss that one... :(
WTB Alps stabilizers :-[
/me hangs head in shame
Too busy being a man of mystery, no doubt!
Well if no one can hook you up in a shorter time span, my 2nd set has your name on it :) I just won't be able to ship them out until I've got my alpine winter set to measure up the 6u I need to hand bend :thumb:
Hopefully it won't come to that, but thank you so much for the offer! :-*
Hopefully it won't come to that, but thank you so much for the offer! :-*
I bought some piano strings, i might be able to get you some.
You can buy the same stab sets from Matias' website. Just costs a tad more.Good point, I forgot about that. ;D
Hoff I got you on the stabilizer set. It'll be in the mail this week.
How do you stretch that piano string to make sure the end result is straight by the way? The bending itself doesn't seem that hard, and in any case there are tools to help with that, but I assume the wire is coiled when you get it.
What I can't get my head around is where to make the bends. Say you have a 6 unit space bar. How long is the wire and how far from each end should the bends be? Is there something I am missing? If I eyeball it, how much margin for error is there? I have the bending tool, and it is pretty easy to use, but I am just worried about wasting the wire. Can anyone offer some specific pointers?I don't have the numbers, but presumably you have the keycap and inserts in the plate already - those are your only restrictions. The ALPS style stabs have the advantage that they don't require bends at precise places (like the cherry ones). You can see it here (https://i.imgur.com/c7Dwv.jpg). The only constraints you need to satisfy is that the long part is long enough to clip into the inserts and move freely, the total width is less than the width of the keycap and that the short "back-bends" are long enough to reach the inserts in the keycap.
sorry to ask this but does anyone know the best way to create a 7u stabiliser wire or where I can buy one?matias bro?
sorry to ask this but does anyone know the best way to create a 7u stabiliser wire or where I can buy one?matias bro?
Once I get my Alpine Winter set I will have a go at making some. If they work out OK I may be able to....hehe 'hook' you up. No promises as I am noob. Postage shouldn't be too much should it?
So here is my first build from this GB. A slapped it together in under an hour in early December. I call it my "Oh **** I'm About To Travel Out Of The US With Only A Tablet" board.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/QuhShB2.jpg)
The keys aren't all correct. The majority of the caps were sourced from my AT101W at work (which I recently put Dolch on). The Caps Lock is from the Dolch set since it was the only center stem Alps cap I had. Not pictured is the underside of the space bar. I put the soldering iron to the pegs on the bottom of the AT101W space bar so it would fit on the plate without drilling into the metal. Quick and dirty.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/7rIh8Zg.jpg)
This is the underside. I needed this to pack light because I wasn't checking any baggage on my flight. The "case" is carbon fiber vinyl wrap stuck directly to the PCB. I leaned it on my space heater to shrink the vinyl since I don't actually own a hairdryer. There is a tiny hole cut for the LED and RESET button. The board is supported by rubber pegs I cannibalized from a practice amp attached with gorilla glue. You can see the glue that oozed out the sides and the center of the rubber parts.
And that is my super ghetto Alps Party board. This build was disassembled on Dec. 24th 2015 for an upgrade to something more palatable. I just wanted to show off the 'before' version since I was proud of my 1 hour board assembled before getting on the plane. It helped me actually get some writing accomplished while I was away.
So here is my first build from this GB. A slapped it together in under an hour in early December. I call it my "Oh **** I'm About To Travel Out Of The US With Only A Tablet" board.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/QuhShB2.jpg)
The keys aren't all correct. The majority of the caps were sourced from my AT101W at work (which I recently put Dolch on). The Caps Lock is from the Dolch set since it was the only center stem Alps cap I had. Not pictured is the underside of the space bar. I put the soldering iron to the pegs on the bottom of the AT101W space bar so it would fit on the plate without drilling into the metal. Quick and dirty.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/7rIh8Zg.jpg)
This is the underside. I needed this to pack light because I wasn't checking any baggage on my flight. The "case" is carbon fiber vinyl wrap stuck directly to the PCB. I leaned it on my space heater to shrink the vinyl since I don't actually own a hairdryer. There is a tiny hole cut for the LED and RESET button. The board is supported by rubber pegs I cannibalized from a practice amp attached with gorilla glue. You can see the glue that oozed out the sides and the center of the rubber parts.
And that is my super ghetto Alps Party board. This build was disassembled on Dec. 24th 2015 for an upgrade to something more palatable. I just wanted to show off the 'before' version since I was proud of my 1 hour board assembled before getting on the plane. It helped me actually get some writing accomplished while I was away.
check2mine2out2guys!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/vV6PAOw.jpg)
album here (http://imgur.com/a/VF745)
check2mine2out2guys!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/vV6PAOw.jpg)
album here (http://imgur.com/a/VF745)
Haha that's awesome. What caps are you planning on using?
MoreHello,
I got asked about SMD diodes in private, thought it might interest other folks as well, so here it goes:
I used 1N4148 diodes in 0805 packaging. You can go for 1N4448 diodes as well, as they are higher quality (they have a lower reverse leakage current). Hasu states that the footprint is SOD123 (3.68 × 1.17 × 1.60 mm). Meaning you can use the following packages:
0805 (2.0 mm × 1.25 mm),
1008 (2.5 mm × 2.0 mm),
1206 (3.2 mm × 1.6 mm),
SOD-123 (naturally)
SOD-323 (1.7 × 1.25 × 0.95 mm) - i see no reason why u couldn't mount it, but it is a bit smaller than the 0805 that i used
Another thing that i would point out is that you don't need to use SMD diodes for every switch, if your only concern is compatibility with the case. The 17 diodes that MUST be SMD are the following, the rest can be the through hole ones that hasu provided:
D00, D10, D20, D22, D23, D24, D25, D26, D27, D30, D31, D36, D55, D63, D65, D70, D73
Hello,
I got asked about SMD diodes in private, thought it might interest other folks as well, so here it goes:
I used 1N4148 diodes in 0805 packaging. You can go for 1N4448 diodes as well, as they are higher quality (they have a lower reverse leakage current). Hasu states that the footprint is SOD123 (3.68 × 1.17 × 1.60 mm). Meaning you can use the following packages:
0805 (2.0 mm × 1.25 mm),
1008 (2.5 mm × 2.0 mm),
1206 (3.2 mm × 1.6 mm),
SOD-123 (naturally)
SOD-323 (1.7 × 1.25 × 0.95 mm) - i see no reason why u couldn't mount it, but it is a bit smaller than the 0805 that i used
Another thing that i would point out is that you don't need to use SMD diodes for every switch, if your only concern is compatibility with the case. The 17 diodes that MUST be SMD are the following, the rest can be the through hole ones that hasu provided:
D00, D10, D20, D22, D23, D24, D25, D26, D27, D30, D31, D36, D55, D63, D65, D70, D73
I just ordered the Matias stabilizer (or hooks as they call them). These are basically costar style stabs right?
Do cherry style stabs exist for Alps? It's interesting that the Spacebars i got from the alpine winter GB have the cherry style crucifix mount for the stabilizers holes.
Would this 6u wire work http://i.imgur.com/BIWgv9Z.jpg with the Matias stabs I ordered?
I just ordered the Matias stabilizer (or hooks as they call them). These are basically costar style stabs right?
Do cherry style stabs exist for Alps? It's interesting that the Spacebars i got from the alpine winter GB have the cherry style crucifix mount for the stabilizers holes.
Would this 6u wire work http://i.imgur.com/BIWgv9Z.jpg with the Matias stabs I ordered?
Wait I'm confused.I just ordered the Matias stabilizer (or hooks as they call them). These are basically costar style stabs right?
Do cherry style stabs exist for Alps? It's interesting that the Spacebars i got from the alpine winter GB have the cherry style crucifix mount for the stabilizers holes.
Would this 6u wire work http://i.imgur.com/BIWgv9Z.jpg with the Matias stabs I ordered?
Like Costar, the ALPS stabilizer wires (both in classic boards that I've dismantled as well as Matias boards) is a much thinner wire diameter than Cherry stabilizer wire.
If the Alpine Winter spacebar comes with the Cherry style mounts, you will still have some issues because you have no way to mount that PCB or Plate stabilizer if you're using a proper ALPS party plate. :)
Wait I'm confused.I just ordered the Matias stabilizer (or hooks as they call them). These are basically costar style stabs right?
Do cherry style stabs exist for Alps? It's interesting that the Spacebars i got from the alpine winter GB have the cherry style crucifix mount for the stabilizers holes.
Would this 6u wire work http://i.imgur.com/BIWgv9Z.jpg with the Matias stabs I ordered?
Like Costar, the ALPS stabilizer wires (both in classic boards that I've dismantled as well as Matias boards) is a much thinner wire diameter than Cherry stabilizer wire.
If the Alpine Winter spacebar comes with the Cherry style mounts, you will still have some issues because you have no way to mount that PCB or Plate stabilizer if you're using a proper ALPS party plate. :)
So the alpine winter spacebars won't work with alps party? Even if I mod the spacebar wire from my Matias stab set?
Also since it looks like alpine winter caps has crucifix mount for stabs.. would it be possible to use cherry style stabilizers on my build? Even if it's just for the spacebar. Would plate or pcb mount cherry stabs work somehow?
Thanks and sorry for the stupid questions. I just hate costar style stabs.
Has anyone managed to cut down an AEKII plate? I have an ALPS64 PCB on the way, and I'm thinking about trying to salvage everything from an AEKII.
Any tips?
Does anyone have a spare plate that they are willing to part with?
I dont know where to look for a plate :[
Finally got around to finishing off my build from this GB :)
All working well, just need to program it now. Using Tai-Hao Dolch, and a stock Poker II white case.
Had a bit of an issue with one switch, but was easy to fix by opening from the top and bending the contacts slightly.
Currently in talks with jdcarpe with producing some of his alps plates featured in this group buy, will do an IC once stuff has been formalized.
Finally got around to finishing off my build from this GB :)
All working well, just need to program it now. Using Tai-Hao Dolch, and a stock Poker II white case.
Had a bit of an issue with one switch, but was easy to fix by opening from the top and bending the contacts slightly.
Keep forgetting to bring the board home and take some glamour shots, but here's a shot in its current setup at work:Beautiful board
(Attachment Link)
Keep forgetting to bring the board home and take some glamour shots, but here's a shot in its current setup at work:
(Attachment Link)
Keep forgetting to bring the board home and take some glamour shots, but here's a shot in its current setup at work:
(Attachment Link)
@kennardsmith That's a great looking build. Love the HHKB layout. Did you make the wood case or buy it?
Invoice Income | $10922.60 |
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Despite all the problems and complications you have always had terrific communication and great customer care. I wish all GB holders were like you Blue, I'm sure I'll join some other GB you hold :thumb:
Can't wait to find out what surprise you have for us!
this big reveal better be something along the lines of you implanted an Alps keyboard into arm.
this big reveal better be something along the lines of you implanted an Alps keyboard into arm.
You have no idea how much I actually want to do this. I would totally get into wet mods if I could afford it.
this big reveal better be something along the lines of you implanted an Alps keyboard into arm.
You have no idea how much I actually want to do this. I would totally get into wet mods if I could afford it.
this big reveal better be something along the lines of you implanted an Alps keyboard into arm.
You have no idea how much I actually want to do this. I would totally get into wet mods if I could afford it.
Well, the difficulty would be that you could only type with one hand. So you would have to become adept at one-handed typing.
In that case, I recommend implanting into the thigh instead.
this big reveal better be something along the lines of you implanted an Alps keyboard into arm.
You have no idea how much I actually want to do this. I would totally get into wet mods if I could afford it.
Well, the difficulty would be that you could only type with one hand. So you would have to become adept at one-handed typing.
In that case, I recommend implanting into the thigh instead.
Ergo on each thigh. Duh. You think this is amateur hour?
this big reveal better be something along the lines of you implanted an Alps keyboard into arm.
You have no idea how much I actually want to do this. I would totally get into wet mods if I could afford it.
Well, the difficulty would be that you could only type with one hand. So you would have to become adept at one-handed typing.
In that case, I recommend implanting into the thigh instead.
Ergo on each thigh. Duh. You think this is amateur hour?
Hard when you're standing though...
this big reveal better be something along the lines of you implanted an Alps keyboard into arm.
You have no idea how much I actually want to do this. I would totally get into wet mods if I could afford it.
Well, the difficulty would be that you could only type with one hand. So you would have to become adept at one-handed typing.
In that case, I recommend implanting into the thigh instead.
Ergo on each thigh. Duh. You think this is amateur hour?
Hard when you're standing though...
Hands in pockets. Like a switch hitter... PUN INTENDED
I thought I'd share some pics of the ANSI board I just finished building last night (x-post from Alps Appreciation Thread):Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Pa9cZKO.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/PevYibF.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/jcThKNM.jpg)
Alps Party ANSI plate, hasu PCB, blue Alps switches, Tai Hao Olivetti keycaps, and a blue-gray 3D printed Z-case.
I thought I'd share some pics of the ANSI board I just finished building last night (x-post from Alps Appreciation Thread):Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Pa9cZKO.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/PevYibF.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/jcThKNM.jpg)
Alps Party ANSI plate, hasu PCB, blue Alps switches, Tai Hao Olivetti keycaps, and a blue-gray 3D printed Z-case.
I thought I'd share some pics of the ANSI board I just finished building last night (x-post from Alps Appreciation Thread):Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Pa9cZKO.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/PevYibF.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/jcThKNM.jpg)
Alps Party ANSI plate, hasu PCB, blue Alps switches, Tai Hao Olivetti keycaps, and a blue-gray 3D printed Z-case.
I thought I'd share some pics of the ANSI board I just finished building last night (x-post from Alps Appreciation Thread):Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Pa9cZKO.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/PevYibF.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/jcThKNM.jpg)
Alps Party ANSI plate, hasu PCB, blue Alps switches, Tai Hao Olivetti keycaps, and a blue-gray 3D printed Z-case.
Are those the Tai Hao caps or pulled from a vintage board? They look like Tai Hao to me.
I thought I'd share some pics of the ANSI board I just finished building last night (x-post from Alps Appreciation Thread):Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Pa9cZKO.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/PevYibF.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/jcThKNM.jpg)
Alps Party ANSI plate, hasu PCB, blue Alps switches, Tai Hao Olivetti keycaps, and a blue-gray 3D printed Z-case.
Are those the Tai Hao caps or pulled from a vintage board? They look like Tai Hao to me.
Read again.
All of those (except Backspace) are on the same row. So I'd say that either the trace to the controller is broken, or the controller pin is not soldered properly (it should be connected to pin PTB3 on the MCU, see page 59 of this datasheet (http://www.nxp.com/files/32bit/doc/data_sheet/K20P64M50SF0.pdf) for the pinout).
EDIT: BTW also Caps and LWin are on the same row.
EDIT2: for the row/col assignment check this (https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard/blob/master/keyboard/infinity_chibios/keymap_common.h), definition of the KEYMAP macro (production). To see which pins does the row/col correspond to, see this (https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard/blob/master/keyboard/infinity_chibios/matrix.c). And I was wrong, it row1 is PTB1. (was looking at the wrong file, sorry).
Finally I can start my Alps Party hehe!That's so cool, is the case a solid piece of wood?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/MBOTFoQ.jpg)
It turned out great and was worth the wait. Now all that I need are those Alpine Winter keycaps! Thanks again for everything Blue! :thumb:
Yes it is. I got it from seal woodworking on massdrop.Finally I can start my Alps Party hehe!That's so cool, is the case a solid piece of wood?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/MBOTFoQ.jpg)
It turned out great and was worth the wait. Now all that I need are those Alpine Winter keycaps! Thanks again for everything Blue! :thumb:
I don't have a 101W, but I've got an Infinity if you're interested.
I need to verify whether my Alpine Winter set came with an Infinity-length spacebar.
I need to verify whether my Alpine Winter set came with an Infinity-length spacebar.
It did.
Finally I can start my Alps Party hehe!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/MBOTFoQ.jpg)
It turned out great and was worth the wait. Now all that I need are those Alpine Winter keycaps! Thanks again for everything Blue! :thumb:
They are Matias Linear switches (simplified alps clones). I haven't received the keycaps yet so I'm unsure of how they really feel yet but they seem extremely smooth. My other (unclean) alps boards are kinda awful when pressed off-center, I'm hoping this brand new switches don't do the same :P Will update when I get the keycaps.Finally I can start my Alps Party hehe!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/MBOTFoQ.jpg)
It turned out great and was worth the wait. Now all that I need are those Alpine Winter keycaps! Thanks again for everything Blue! :thumb:
Oooooo! Are those the really light linear ALPS switches? How do they feel to type on?
Greetings everyone. I've been away for quite a while due to ... life. Anyway, I sat down this weekend to take inventory and order any remaining missing parts, so that I can start assembly. Switches ... check. Diodes, ... check. Caps ... check. PCB ... check. Mounting plate ... NOOOOOOOOO!
It turns out that I received a 102W plate, instead of a 101W plate. This is my fault entirely, as I neglected to notice this when I received same, so this is in no way a beotch session. I'm just wondering if anyone out there has a spare 101W plate that they can part with. If not, the Alpine Winter set fortunately includes an ISO enter cap, so I can build what I have. I've just never been an ISO fan. I'm a creature of habit, I suppose.
While I'm at it I'd like to express my sincere thanks to njbair and BlueNalgene for a pair of well run and well timed GB's. Thanks gents!
Greetings everyone. I've been away for quite a while due to ... life. Anyway, I sat down this weekend to take inventory and order any remaining missing parts, so that I can start assembly. Switches ... check. Diodes, ... check. Caps ... check. PCB ... check. Mounting plate ... NOOOOOOOOO!
It turns out that I received a 102W plate, instead of a 101W plate. This is my fault entirely, as I neglected to notice this when I received same, so this is in no way a beotch session. I'm just wondering if anyone out there has a spare 101W plate that they can part with. If not, the Alpine Winter set fortunately includes an ISO enter cap, so I can build what I have. I've just never been an ISO fan. I'm a creature of habit, I suppose.
While I'm at it I'd like to express my sincere thanks to njbair and BlueNalgene for a pair of well run and well timed GB's. Thanks gents!
I just saw this. Sorry you got the wrong plate. I don't understand how that error could have happened, unless someone else got the 101W plate you were supposed to get. I haven't heard anything like that. I wish I had a spare I could send you. Is there anything I can do to rectify the problem?
Bit late to the party, but here she is. Salmon alps were harvested from an old Apple M0116. The wooden case is a Royal Glam (Walnut?) from Massdrop.
Going to put some Tao Hao Dolch keycaps on it this weekend. Need to still figure out how to reduce the torsional spacebar wobble (actuates correctly), I'm thinking either tape or lube on the metal wire where it meets the plastic inserts.
Hey guys, I'm going to buy some of the K&S Precision Metal music wire #502 to make some Alps stabilizer wire. Let me know if anyone else wants any. I will have way too much for myself.
http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/k+s/k+s502.htm
Any chance this will get another run?
Any chance this will get another run?
Yes and no. I'm trying to see if I can find time to do another Alps Party run. However, it probably won't be a 60%. I was thinking about a tenkey and/or a TKL.
If you were already having plates made it would not be too hard to just make it a sandwich style case. I am excited either way, I like both alps, and custom boards :DAny chance this will get another run?
Yes and no. I'm trying to see if I can find time to do another Alps Party run. However, it probably won't be a 60%. I was thinking about a tenkey and/or a TKL.
Tenkey would be neat, I think, though I wonder how many cases for Alps num pads there are.
Any chance this will get another run?
Yes and no. I'm trying to see if I can find time to do another Alps Party run. However, it probably won't be a 60%. I was thinking about a tenkey and/or a TKL.
I'm looking for an AEKII ANSI plate. Does anyone have the schematics from this GB and know where I could have one made?If the plate isn't damaged, it will cost less to pay someone to cut it down. A one off plate will cost around $100 [source (https://www.bigbluesaw.com/index.php?option=com_estimator&file=A0A0-A0A0-keyboard-60percent-compromise.inch.dxf&step=20&material=3&thickness=0.06)].
I tried cutting down the plate on the AEKII, but I don't have the appropriate tools, so I couldn't get it to quite fit inside the case I have.
I'm looking for an AEKII ANSI plate. Does anyone have the schematics from this GB and know where I could have one made?
I tried cutting down the plate on the AEKII, but I don't have the appropriate tools, so I couldn't get it to quite fit inside the case I have.
Any chance this will get another run?
Yes and no. I'm trying to see if I can find time to do another Alps Party run. However, it probably won't be a 60%. I was thinking about a tenkey and/or a TKL.
Not to zombie the thread, but was there every discovered a workaround for the right shift stabilizer, or does that still include a pair of scissors?