Model M Cracked Barrel Frame. Now What?

[kalrand]

I had picked up a 122 key Model M a few weeks back on ebay that had been "bolt modded". Sure. The price was right, and I was trying out new things.

I ended up loving the size, and the feel, and the weight. So I think that's the way keyboard format I'm going for in the future in general.

Anyway, I decided that I was never going to get used to the super short left shift key, and while it wasn't terribly important to fix immediately, I was going to swap that out for an ANSI shift. I waited until I had a night free, and that was tonight.

So the person who did the bolt mod used self tapping screws. Two different kinds had been used, one that was obviously too large, and one that made more sense. It looks like there were several random places that the person had tried to use extra screws, but didn't like the placement. and just left holes. So I delicately remove the screws, carefully keeping track of what sized screw had been used where and swapped out a hammer.

Carefully reassemble, and I get to the end and realized that somewhere along the way the frame had cracked pretty badly under the ISO enter key. I'm going to assume it was my work, but didn't even feel the crack happen when re-tightening everything. It's possible it was cracked before I got it, and the too-large screws were used to keep the whole thing in place, but for the life of me, I can't figure out how to redo that.

So what's the best way to handle this? I have another "untested" 122 model M I picked up on the cheap, mostly for parts and keycaps. But, if it happens to work, I can tell it's going to need to be bolt modded eventually, and I just don't trust myself to do that at this point. I do need an ANSI left shift key, so I've got to get into it one way or another...

Do I get a new unicomp, and just send them a custom order request? Should I send my other model M off to someone else to bolt mod and ansi-swap?

For that matter, how does a new 122 key Unicomp model M feel compared to a 1986-ish (silver square logo) IBM model M, compared to a ~1991 (blue logo) IBM model M? Is one better than the rest?

And if this seems rambling, I'm writing this after my "oh probably an hour" project ended in failure at 3am...

[0100010]

Just order a replacement barrel frame from Unicomp, they are $20. http://pckeyboard.com/page/Misc/CVSET

[fohat.digs]

For not a whole lot more than the $20 + shipping, you could get a 2nd board and have lots of spare parts.

I still prefer the "nut and bolt" mod to self-tapping scenarios, although it is probably far more difficult.

[kalrand]

For not a whole lot more than the $20 + shipping, you could get a 2nd board and have lots of spare parts.

I still prefer the "nut and bolt" mod to self-tapping scenarios, although it is probably far more difficult.

I'm actually leaning towards just getting a new unicomp, and using the old board for spare parts, but I was part of the $19 2011 unicomp 122 buy a few weeks ago, and that board just feels kind of weak. Is that normal for new unicomps?

[kalrand]

For not a whole lot more than the $20 + shipping, you could get a 2nd board and have lots of spare parts.

I still prefer the "nut and bolt" mod to self-tapping scenarios, although it is probably far more difficult.

I'm actually leaning towards just getting a new unicomp, and using the old board for spare parts, but I was part of the $19 2011 unicomp 122 buy a few weeks ago, and that board just feels kind of weak. Is that normal for new unicomps?

And yes, I realized I could harvest from that board, but I'm trying to sell it for more than the $20+shipping the unicomp frame would cost.

[berserkfan]

Hey

just buy an older M-122 and recycle the parts.

Unicomp has been charging less than what IBM did in the 1980s, not even counting for inflation, but at great loss to quality. I have an 8 year old Unicomp in worse shape than any other buckling spring or even Cherry Corp keyboard and some of them are 30 years old. You will do better to get an old M as all the parts are good, even the keyboard controller and cables and metal stabs (if it is vintage enough).