Help with extended Plank design for Lasercutting

[domsch1988]

So, my first ideas for my custom keyboard are getting to a point, where i need to start something physical.

I started with a plank, added numbers and F-Row plus a bit. I now am at a 6x12 Matrix layout, all 1U.


The final idea is, to make a 15-25 degree angle between the Alphas and the Numbers. The Case would then be set up so that the Numbers are angled up slightly (from the horizontal Desk perspective) and the alpha-Block would be angled down slightly (for ergonomic reasons I need a bit of lift in the front).

I now want to get a sandwich style case laser cut. First without the Angling. Just a flat board. I used swill kb to get the cad files (I'll attach them for you).
I think i'm going with wood for the prototype. There are much more companies doing laser cutting with wood than there are doing aluminium or Stainless work. Plus wood will turn out cheaper.
I know, for plate mount cherry style switches i'll need 1,5 mm of thickness. Which thickness would the two in-between layers need to have enough space for switches and wiring?

Which Controller would you recommend for the 6x12 Matrix?

Any help to get this to a physical manifestation of my idea is much appreciated 

[domsch1988]

Designing phase is proceeding, but i need a bit of help sourcing switches:

I'd like something in the ballpark of MX Blues. I'm from Germany. Sourcing individual switches is near impossible. falbatech is EU based, but including shipping the switches get quiet expensive.

The cheapest keyboard with cherry blues seems to be the cherry mx board 3.0. How easy would desoldering the switches be? And are the switches used in these keyboards useable for handwiring?

[regack]

I think getting switches from 7bit over on DT might be easiest - he's actually in Germany.   He will usually have just about any switches you might want.  Sometimes it can take some time before you get them, but you will reliably get them.

[domsch1988]

I think getting switches from 7bit over on DT might be easiest - he's actually in Germany.   He will usually have just about any switches you might want.  Sometimes it can take some time before you get them, but you will reliably get them.

Great tip, thank you very much. I just registered and will see if i can get something going there 

Another thing: The Plate designer offers different wholes. Will they all work? Basically, are the plain square holes just as good as the full fancy ones? If so, i might get my files out and do the proto plate by hand. Cheaper than getting it laser cut

[qwack]

If your switches will be hand-wired (no PCB), you will want at least 10 mm between the top and the bottom plate, perhaps 12 mm. Remember that you need room for your controller as well.

A Teensy 2.0 (25 i/o) will be perfect for a 12x6 matrix — you'll have connections left for status LEDs. An Arduino Pro Micro clone would be cheaper and have just enough pins (18) for the matrix. A Teensy-LC would have even more pins and will be cheaper than a 2.0, but you'll need to find a firmware that works with ARM controllers.