geekhack
geekhack Projects => Making Stuff Together! => Topic started by: SectorOMEGA on Tue, 03 April 2018, 13:09:52
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Hello :) First excuse me for this one, I know this was covered in other teams but I got lost :D I have one 60% which Im using as a daily driver.
Its in cheap Chinese casing and aluminum plate(Its with PCB). So now Im after some new fully acrylic casing. I will desolder all and solder all back, but What thickness I can go for the top plate? I know the cherries accommodate 1.5mm at best. Any advice will be highly appreciated.
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Cherry switches will clip in at 1.5mm +- 0.1mm. If you want thicker, you'd have to make notches so they can clip in (or don't add notches but might mis-align some).
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I want to go with 1.5mm but was wondering if its going to be enough. There will be some sandwich plates on the surroundings but it will be a little bit larger than the Chinese casing. Will it be enough for typing and not 'sinking' when typing :)
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Enough structurally yes, but I can't comment on the feeling.
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Thank you very much for this. Well, I might give it a try :D Will wait for a few more comments and if not, laser guys will be called out :)
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If you're using a PCB the switches don't need to clip in and if you're getting a custom plate for your exact layout the switch holes will keep the switches straight (assuming you get a nice tight fit) This means you can use a 5mm plate which covers the bottom half of the switch resulting in a different sound.
I have an all-acrylic board with a 5mm plate with 120g linear switches and it feels solid, but I've never tried a 1.5mm plate in acrylic to compare.
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Excellent. But if switches dont clip in and cover the bottom part what will be the sizing of the square? Yep it will be with PCB :)