I just got one of these in the mail today.
TLDR version:MUCH better than the first, but there are still some caveats. I feel it's worth the money, but read the rest before you consider one.
Long version:So, after seeing the first batch and my recent issues with KBT (
who is working with me on the problems), I decided to give this a shot.
Initially I was dead set on the MKC, however after getting some feedback on MKC prices I had to rethink things. When I first started my quest for an aluminum keyboard, there wasn't a lot of choice and prices were high. Then the Vortex and MKC went back off the market. Today though, we have the LZ-GH coming, Vortex has redone their case, MKC is readying to release an entire keyboard at a price right in the middle, and less then the group buy price for the MKC case. It's hard to justify nearly $400 just for a case at this point when you have other options for less money.
After hearing some feedback on this case being better in the latest batch, the price seemed a bit more justifiable, and figured if I wasn't happy, I could fix some of it and/or resell it. At worst I might lose a little money at which point I could buy a different case or keyboard or simply keep it and toss in a CM QFR for a spare. It was still better than $400 for the MKC. Don;t get me wrong, the MKC case is nice, but it's lot of money.
A note about standoffs. This case doesn't use them, and if you study how it was designed, it doesn't need them. In fact if you look, even the Filco hardly even uses the ones it has. The Filco case is plastic and provides very little support to the plate except the back edge and a few standoffs, the aluminum case braces the plate entirely along both the front and the rear, adding extra stiffness. Anger over the lack of standoffs is unfounded as this is actually a better design from a structural standpoint. There is a mm or two side to side the keyboard can move during assembly but I also don't see this as bad as it allows you to center the board. Once done, it won't move.
The good:The fit is good! There is no bowing on the sides, the sides are flush and the front and rear is almost perfectly flush. The cord even fit in perfect. Amazingly, the key spacing is BETTER than the stock Filco case(!), I was blown away. Every key is
almost perfectly spaced, the F keys are a
little too far forward (1/4mm?), but you can't see it unless you look for it, the rest are perfectly centered. It's still better than the Filco. The finish is also not nearly as rough as I expected either. It looks sandblasted in the pictures, but in person it's more satin, it reminds me of 1000 grit sandpaper.
The bad...Obviously, you probably know that feet did not come with it, however, mine also came without any hardware. Seriously, I got two plates and nothing else. I don't know who is to blame here for this. One of the inner boxes had some tape come lose and the hardware may have slid out or a box was missed or it just didn't have any, but no hardware was in there. At any rate, it only cost me $4, so it's not a big deal really, just a minor inconvenience.
So how is it to use?It actually reminds me a lot of the Model M (which is fantastic!). If you have used one, you know what I mean when I say they don't flex or vibrate or wiggle around. It's like the switches are dead bolted to your desk. Super stiff, all you feel is the key actuation, no moving or vibrating. A side bonus is that it dampens the noise much more than expected, in fact I had plans on spraying the inside with rubberized undercoating for more sound dampening, but it's not necessary at all.
Is it worth it?Well, it would be nice if it came with screws and feet, however I can say that it's a much better value than it was. If they ever ship the proper feet, it will be a good deal. The fit and finish has been greatly improved. For me, yes, it was worth it, but I'm not a teenager working fast food. If you are, stick with a stock case.
I had plans to paint it, but it looks pretty good as it is so I plan to wait until I have my Red Alert key set installed (in the mail), then decide what to do. It's too darn cold outside to paint anyhow (well below freezing).
Tips...The screws you want are panhead (flat), allen keyed (2mm), M3-.50 x 10 (m3 diameter, .5 thread, 10mm long), at least those are what worked for me. I got mine for 25cents each at a Chicks Do-It-Center, you need 9 of them, but 8 would work. I grabbed some 6mm long ones as well and used them to pre-run the holes, which to be honest, could have been a bit cleaner. A few were a bit tight, others were fine.
Assemble it all loosely, then use the screws to pull the case halves together evenly so you have a thin gap all around. There should be enough pressure on the plate at that point to keep it from moving. You will probably feel this point as much as see it. Using your fingers to pinch the case, just tighten the screws so they are snug, but not tight. I worked from the middle out, in criss-crossing pattern. There is no need to clamp it down for dear life, it won't go anywhere and you should get a nice even line all the way around.
Also, get some sort of feet and resist lifting it, particularly if you have a glass desk, this thing is HEAVY and if it slips, it will do some damage. The empty case is around 3.5 pounds, add another one and a half for keyboard and you are talking a 5 pound chunk of metal. Just dropping an end just 1inch onto your finger will show you how much mass it's packing.
Potato cam pics showing alignments:
