Author Topic: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP) (Read 3519252 times)

SpAmRaY · « **Reply #3350 on:** Wed, 31 July 2013, 20:30:55 »

Quote from: WhiteFireDragon on Wed, 31 July 2013, 19:09:46

Quote from: kenmai9 on Wed, 31 July 2013, 18:47:09
Quote from: CPTBadAss on Wed, 31 July 2013, 18:42:43
Doesnt the Poker 2 already have SMD resistors for the PCB since there is a backlit version? Doesnt make sense to make 2 diff PCBs. I dont think you'll need the resistors.

Okay so I can just buy LEDs and install them?

There are already SMD resistors, although I haven't checked the value of them. Ideally you'd want to match resistor value with the LED voltage, but I think most color and voltages should be ok.

You need to remove solder from the holes first (the small circle and square holes), install LED, clip excess leads, then solder. Pay attention to polarity. Here is a pic of poker2 PCB from my review thread:

http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=44118.0
Show Image

I'll show my ignorance. I realize on the PCB there is a square and circle representing differing polarity, but how is polarity indicated on the LEDs ?

WhiteFireDragon · « **Reply #3351 on:** Wed, 31 July 2013, 20:32:13 »

1) Longer leg is always positive.
2) Near the bottom of the plastic, the chipped part is negative side
3) Look straight through the plastic, and you can see a diagonal gap. The side where the gap is on top is positive.

Quote from: CPTBadAss on Wed, 31 July 2013, 19:56:24

Is it wrong for me to say I love you WhiteFireDragon? Thank you for the knowledge

<3

SpAmRaY · « **Reply #3352 on:** Wed, 31 July 2013, 20:34:21 »

Quote from: WhiteFireDragon on Wed, 31 July 2013, 20:32:13

Longer leg is always positive.

Thank you WFD!

WhiteFireDragon · « **Reply #3353 on:** Wed, 31 July 2013, 20:44:07 »

Quote from: WhiteFireDragon on Wed, 31 July 2013, 19:09:46

There are already SMD resistors, although I haven't checked the value of them. Ideally you'd want to match resistor value with the LED voltage, but I think most color and voltages should be ok.
Show Image

EDIT: from my own pic, it looks like the resistor's value is either 195ohm or 561ohm. Resistors have no polarity, so I can't which side is right side up. I'll verify with a multimeter when I get home.

Before, I couldn't see this tiny printed text with naked eye, good thing camera is high res ^-^

FlagrantWolf · « **Reply #3354 on:** Wed, 31 July 2013, 21:15:34 »

I'm thinking about buying either the Quickfire Rapid or Quickfire XT. Do they both have similarly good build quality? Also, do they have a common key size and is it easy to find keycaps for them?

Thanks!

CPTBadAss · « **Reply #3355 on:** Wed, 31 July 2013, 21:24:49 »

Quote from: FlagrantWolf on Wed, 31 July 2013, 21:15:34

I'm thinking about buying either the Quickfire Rapid or Quickfire XT.

1)Do they both have similarly good build quality?
2) Also, do they have a common key size and is it easy to find keycaps for them?

1) Should have the same build quality.
2) XT looks like ANSI 1.25x so the caps are easily replaced and available. QFR is ANSI 1.25x so caps are easy to find like I said.

FlagrantWolf · « **Reply #3356 on:** Wed, 31 July 2013, 21:47:21 »

Thank you for the help

lazerpointer · « **Reply #3357 on:** Wed, 31 July 2013, 22:56:08 »

What is a search gnome? Reference below;

More

Quote from: rowdy on Wed, 31 July 2013, 22:49:51

Quote from: Lu_e on Wed, 31 July 2013, 22:03:38
Yo dudes, i've been wondering...

Since CC always says to put your GH username in the subject line of emails, does that mean these are intended to go to GH members only?

& how can he even make sure they're a member when this forum doesn't even have a public 'members list' ...like most forums?

Just one thing i've been wondering. Especially with the lack of pictures in the cc media thread... kinda sad. Feels like everyone should be so pumped to post their hauls up? But im sure most of the cc go to random non-members anyway... right? ...

Or I am wrong? there is a GH members list available to him for this purpose? or moderators are involved? What is the point of asking for our user name then? blacklist only?

jw

I suspect this is a sale especially for GH.

I do not know if he does the same for other keyboard forums, but I suspect not.

We are very lucky

He also probably has search gnomes.

rowdy · « **Reply #3358 on:** Thu, 01 August 2013, 01:02:10 »

Quote from: lazerpointer on Wed, 31 July 2013, 22:56:08

What is a search gnome? Reference below;

More
Quote from: rowdy on Wed, 31 July 2013, 22:49:51
Quote from: Lu_e on Wed, 31 July 2013, 22:03:38
Yo dudes, i've been wondering...

Since CC always says to put your GH username in the subject line of emails, does that mean these are intended to go to GH members only?

& how can he even make sure they're a member when this forum doesn't even have a public 'members list' ...like most forums?

Just one thing i've been wondering. Especially with the lack of pictures in the cc media thread... kinda sad. Feels like everyone should be so pumped to post their hauls up? But im sure most of the cc go to random non-members anyway... right? ...

Or I am wrong? there is a GH members list available to him for this purpose? or moderators are involved? What is the point of asking for our user name then? blacklist only?

jw

I suspect this is a sale especially for GH.

I do not know if he does the same for other keyboard forums, but I suspect not.

We are very lucky

He also probably has search gnomes.

ClickClack has always claimed that his Clack Factory keycaps are hald-crafted by him and his gnomes.

It was postulated that he also had a cluster of gnomes who searched Geekack for him.

Hades · « **Reply #3359 on:** Thu, 01 August 2013, 04:35:51 »

Is the usb on on the pcb replaceable?
Ex) poker pcb

BlueBär · « **Reply #3360 on:** Thu, 01 August 2013, 04:38:28 »

Quote from: Hades on Thu, 01 August 2013, 04:35:51

Is the usb on on the pcb replaceable?
Ex) poker pcb

Do you mean if you could replace the connector if it was broken? If so, then yes, why not.

CPTBadAss · « **Reply #3361 on:** Thu, 01 August 2013, 06:07:58 »

Quote from: Hades on Thu, 01 August 2013, 04:35:51

Is the usb on on the pcb replaceable?
Ex) poker pcb

Like BlueBar said, please clarify your question. I'm not understanding what you're asking.

Melvang · « **Reply #3362 on:** Thu, 01 August 2013, 09:02:13 »

Would leads clipped from spare LED's work as pins to solder a Teensy to a PCB?

Photekq · « **Reply #3363 on:** Thu, 01 August 2013, 09:02:50 »

Quote from: Melvang on Thu, 01 August 2013, 09:02:13

Would leads clipped from spare LED's work as pins to solder a Teensy to a PCB?

Yeah.

Melvang · « **Reply #3364 on:** Thu, 01 August 2013, 09:11:51 »

Quote from: Photekq on Thu, 01 August 2013, 09:02:50

Quote from: Melvang on Thu, 01 August 2013, 09:02:13
Would leads clipped from spare LED's work as pins to solder a Teensy to a PCB?
Yeah.

Excellent thanks Photekq

SpAmRaY · « **Reply #3365 on:** Thu, 01 August 2013, 10:06:14 »

Quote from: Melvang on Thu, 01 August 2013, 09:02:13

Would leads clipped from spare LED's work as pins to solder a Teensy to a PCB?

^^ I was seriously thinking about asking that same thing!

domoaligato · « **Reply #3366 on:** Thu, 01 August 2013, 10:08:59 »

leads clipped from the through hole diodes will work also.

Melvang · « **Reply #3367 on:** Thu, 01 August 2013, 10:26:23 »

That could work as I will have spares of those. But only about half as many cut leads as it is going to be a hardwired matrix.

Hades · « **Reply #3368 on:** Thu, 01 August 2013, 10:45:43 »

Quote from: BlueBär on Thu, 01 August 2013, 04:38:28

Quote from: Hades on Thu, 01 August 2013, 04:35:51
Is the usb on on the pcb replaceable?
Ex) poker pcb

Do you mean if you could replace the connector if it was broken? If so, then yes, why not.

Yes, the connector; just have to desolder the broken one and solder on a new one?

Photekq · « **Reply #3369 on:** Thu, 01 August 2013, 10:52:03 »

Quote from: Hades on Thu, 01 August 2013, 10:45:43

Yes, the connector; just have to desolder the broken one and solder on a new one?

Yes. You can do this.

kenmai9 · « **Reply #3370 on:** Thu, 01 August 2013, 11:15:16 »

Thanks for all the information concerning LEDs WFD!! and others who chimed in (see page 112)

lcs · « **Reply #3371 on:** Thu, 01 August 2013, 11:25:36 »

This thread is by far my favourite one

CPTBadAss · « **Reply #3372 on:** Thu, 01 August 2013, 11:57:27 »

Quote from: lcs on Thu, 01 August 2013, 11:25:36

This thread is by far my favourite one

Quote from: kenmai9 on Thu, 01 August 2013, 11:15:16

Thanks for all the information concerning LEDs WFD!! and others who chimed in (see page 112)

Thanks, I'm rather fond of this thread. Pretty happy one of my pet projects turned into something cool. Couldn't have done it without the community though ^__^

aesthetics1 · « **Reply #3373 on:** Thu, 01 August 2013, 12:46:12 »

Can you replace the bottom row of a Topre Realforce board so that it has uniformly sized mods? (1.25x I believe?)

Not a fan of the larger mods with smaller WinKey.

Thanks.

CPTBadAss · « **Reply #3374 on:** Thu, 01 August 2013, 12:48:47 »

Quote from: aesthetics1 on Thu, 01 August 2013, 12:46:12

Can you replace the bottom row of a Topre Realforce board so that it has uniformly sized mods? (1.25x I believe?)

I think you can if you take the time to stem modify a whole bunch mods. Otherwise, the spacing of the switches in the case won't allow you to swap caps like that. It's the same issue if I try to put a Tsangan kit on an ANSI 1.25x board.

aesthetics1 · « **Reply #3375 on:** Thu, 01 August 2013, 12:57:25 »

Thanks.. Can you elaborate just a bit regarding stem modding?

CPTBadAss · « **Reply #3376 on:** Thu, 01 August 2013, 13:00:19 »

Quote from: aesthetics1 on Thu, 01 August 2013, 12:57:25

Thanks.. Can you elaborate just a bit regarding stem modding?

Cut the stem off, reglue them into a place that you want them to be so the caps line up the way you want.

WhiteFireDragon · « **Reply #3377 on:** Thu, 01 August 2013, 14:12:49 »

Quote from: aesthetics1 on Thu, 01 August 2013, 12:46:12

Can you replace the bottom row of a Topre Realforce board so that it has uniformly sized mods? (1.25x I believe?)

It's actually not possible without any compromise. First of all, replacement 1.25x modifiers don't exist. Even if they do, and you decide to do the stem mod like CPT mentioned, there will be at least 1 small gap on the bottom row. All topre spacebars are 6.0x size, you need a 6.25x size spacebar to fill all gaps if you are to use 1.25x modifiers, and a 6.25x topre spacebar does not exist.

CPTBadAss · « **Reply #3378 on:** Thu, 01 August 2013, 14:15:30 »

Hehe, WFD saved me from my lack of Topre knowledge ^__^

aesthetics1 · « **Reply #3379 on:** Thu, 01 August 2013, 15:39:36 »

Quote from: CPTBadAss on Thu, 01 August 2013, 14:15:30

Hehe, WFD saved me from my lack of Topre knowledge ^__^

Thanks! Appreciate the answer.

CalmB4tehPwn · « **Reply #3380 on:** Thu, 01 August 2013, 20:56:32 »

Is there a place I can get some more info on buckling springs? The search function isn't working for me right now, and I think it has something to do with my being on a military computer. They like to restrict functions that don't do anybody any harm.

Specifically, I'd like some info on what brands I should be looking at for a modern buckling spring keyboard, though I'd take some threads on how they work as well. I've got a base knowledge of MX and Topre, and I'd like to understand BS as well.

lcs · « **Reply #3381 on:** Thu, 01 August 2013, 21:03:17 »

Quote from: CalmB4tehPwn on Thu, 01 August 2013, 20:56:32

Is there a place I can get some more info on buckling springs? The search function isn't working for me right now, and I think it has something to do with my being on a military computer. They like to restrict functions that don't do anybody any harm.

Specifically, I'd like some info on what brands I should be looking at for a modern buckling spring keyboard, though I'd take some threads on how they work as well. I've got a base knowledge of MX and Topre, and I'd like to understand BS as well.

I think only Unicomp makes BS nowadays.

Melvang · « **Reply #3382 on:** Thu, 01 August 2013, 21:21:33 »

Quote from: lcs on Thu, 01 August 2013, 21:03:17

Quote from: CalmB4tehPwn on Thu, 01 August 2013, 20:56:32
Is there a place I can get some more info on buckling springs? The search function isn't working for me right now, and I think it has something to do with my being on a military computer. They like to restrict functions that don't do anybody any harm.

Specifically, I'd like some info on what brands I should be looking at for a modern buckling spring keyboard, though I'd take some threads on how they work as well. I've got a base knowledge of MX and Topre, and I'd like to understand BS as well.

I think only Unicomp makes BS nowadays.

I concur that Unicomp is the only maker that i know of that makes new buckling spring keyboards. They can be found here. http://www.pckeyboard.com/

CPTBadAss · « **Reply #3383 on:** Thu, 01 August 2013, 21:26:46 »

Quote from: CalmB4tehPwn on Thu, 01 August 2013, 20:56:32

Is there a place I can get some more info on buckling springs? The search function isn't working for me right now, and I think it has something to do with my being on a military computer. They like to restrict functions that don't do anybody any harm.

Specifically, I'd like some info on what brands I should be looking at for a modern buckling spring keyboard, though I'd take some threads on how they work as well. I've got a base knowledge of MX and Topre, and I'd like to understand BS as well.

http://deskthority.net/wiki/Buckling_Spring: General knowledge including a really cool GIF.

http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=33430.0: SSKR project

http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=40111.0: Also this, custom membrane project

Not new but it is modern:

http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=40006.0: M-60% Project from ronwisekoi

http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=44875.0: The_Beast's 60% M

CalmB4tehPwn · « **Reply #3384 on:** Thu, 01 August 2013, 21:53:13 »

thanks guys, I'll go make learnin' happen

CalmB4tehPwn · « **Reply #3385 on:** Thu, 01 August 2013, 21:54:49 »

wait, buckling spring is -less- than MX?

But considered by many to be better, and is not nearly as common?

Considering the trend of less widely available mean twice the price, I find this surprising.

CalmB4tehPwn · « **Reply #3386 on:** Thu, 01 August 2013, 21:59:38 »

okay okay.

So the actuation is cause by the buckling, which changes the angle of the bottom part of the spring, closing the circuit?
That seems... unreliable. I feel like buckling a spring just isn't that consistent, and there's too many variables involved. Wouldn't the actuation depth as well as the force required change per key switch? And if it does, is it enough to throw somebody off?

I can see why this is one of the earlier designs, but I'm finding it difficult to believe that it's still viable. I feel like the other methods would be more reliable.

Now, obviously, if I'm wrong, I'm wrong. I haven't tried it, I have no frame of reference, this is just based on the concept of the switch. It feels crude and unrefined.

Sniping · « **Reply #3387 on:** Thu, 01 August 2013, 22:02:56 »

Monterey blue vs MX Blue feel?

AKIMbO · « **Reply #3388 on:** Thu, 01 August 2013, 22:04:30 »

Quote from: Sniping on Thu, 01 August 2013, 22:02:56

Monterey blue vs MX Blue feel?

MX Blue= Pretty light switch with a plastic sounded click (high pitched). Actuation and click is in the middle of the keystroke.
Mont Blues= Medium heavy switch with a deeper click sound. Tactile bump is at the top of the switch.

CPTBadAss · « **Reply #3389 on:** Thu, 01 August 2013, 22:08:15 »

First off PLEASE EDIT YOUR POSTS. Triple posting??

Quote from: CalmB4tehPwn on Thu, 01 August 2013, 21:54:49

1) wait, buckling spring is -less- than MX?
2) but considered by many to be better, and is not nearly as common?

1) Less in cost? They can be. Depends on the BS board.
2) It's not common because they're not really made anymore. And "better"? I don't know about that. People are huge IBM enthusiasts but its personal opinion of course. I refuse to say "better" or "worse" in this thread.

Quote from: CalmB4tehPwn on Thu, 01 August 2013, 21:59:38

1) So the actuation is cause by the buckling, which changes the angle of the bottom part of the spring, closing the circuit?
That seems... unreliable. I feel like buckling a spring just isn't that consistent, and there's too many variables involved. Wouldn't the actuation depth as well as the force required change per key switch? And if it does, is it enough to throw somebody off?

2) I can see why this is one of the earlier designs, but I'm finding it difficult to believe that it's still viable. I feel like the other methods would be more reliable.

1) It works fine. Actuation feels like the other switches. There's not really any inconsistency. And I don't think stock Cherry boards will last 30+ years with constant use like IBM boards.

CalmB4tehPwn · « **Reply #3390 on:** Thu, 01 August 2013, 22:14:07 »

Quote from: CPTBadAss on Thu, 01 August 2013, 22:08:15

First off PLEASE EDIT YOUR POSTS. Triple posting??

Quote from: CalmB4tehPwn on Thu, 01 August 2013, 21:54:49
1) wait, buckling spring is -less- than MX?
2) but considered by many to be better, and is not nearly as common?

1) Less in cost? They can be. Depends on the BS board.
2) It's not common because they're not really made anymore. And "better"? I don't know about that. People are huge IBM enthusiasts but its personal opinion of course. I refuse to say "better" or "worse" in this thread.

Quote from: CalmB4tehPwn on Thu, 01 August 2013, 21:59:38
1) So the actuation is cause by the buckling, which changes the angle of the bottom part of the spring, closing the circuit?
That seems... unreliable. I feel like buckling a spring just isn't that consistent, and there's too many variables involved. Wouldn't the actuation depth as well as the force required change per key switch? And if it does, is it enough to throw somebody off?

2) I can see why this is one of the earlier designs, but I'm finding it difficult to believe that it's still viable. I feel like the other methods would be more reliable.

1) It works fine. Actuation fees like the other switches. There's not really any inconsistency. And I don't think stock Cherry boards will last 30+ years with constant use like IBM boards.

You make valid points, Cap. They're proven. Maybe I should just suck it up and try one. Is unicomp a reliable company?

lcs · « **Reply #3391 on:** Thu, 01 August 2013, 22:15:41 »

Quote from: CalmB4tehPwn on Thu, 01 August 2013, 22:14:07

You make valid points, Cap. They're proven. Maybe I should just suck it up and try one. Is unicomp a reliable company?

They have a poor customer service. I've sent messages that were never replied. Perhaps now they have released the new layouts and have stock they will. I read here however similar opinions on that.

CPTBadAss · « **Reply #3392 on:** Thu, 01 August 2013, 22:16:22 »

Quote from: CalmB4tehPwn on Thu, 01 August 2013, 22:14:07

You make valid points, Cap. They're proven. Maybe I should just suck it up and try one. Is unicomp a reliable company?

I've never typed on a Unicomp so I have no personal opinion on their boards. I've heard that they make nice boards and there's the usual divide of people. Some people like Unicomps, some like IBM. FWIW, they worked with GH to make caps and they have a vendor forum here. I had SSK parts ordered from them too so that's a plus for them in my book.

Sniping · « **Reply #3393 on:** Thu, 01 August 2013, 22:34:42 »

Quote from: AKIMbO on Thu, 01 August 2013, 22:04:30

Quote from: Sniping on Thu, 01 August 2013, 22:02:56
Monterey blue vs MX Blue feel?

MX Blue= Pretty light switch with a plastic sounded click (high pitched). Actuation and click is in the middle of the keystroke.
Mont Blues= Medium heavy switch with a deeper click sound. Tactile bump is at the top of the switch.

Thanks man! Is the common keyboard with those alps switches the Chicony 5181 or something like that?

AKIMbO · « **Reply #3394 on:** Thu, 01 August 2013, 22:56:50 »

Quote from: Sniping on Thu, 01 August 2013, 22:34:42

Quote from: AKIMbO on Thu, 01 August 2013, 22:04:30
Quote from: Sniping on Thu, 01 August 2013, 22:02:56
Monterey blue vs MX Blue feel?

MX Blue= Pretty light switch with a plastic sounded click (high pitched). Actuation and click is in the middle of the keystroke.
Mont Blues= Medium heavy switch with a deeper click sound. Tactile bump is at the top of the switch.

Thanks man! Is the common keyboard with those alps switches the Chicony 5181 or something like that?

Chicony KB5181 (also came with cherry mx blues)
Siig Minitouch (also came with crappy ALPs knock off switches)
Mtek104 (dunno if this came with other switch varieties)