[GB] Alps Party 60% - Hannibal at the Gates

[BlueNalgene]

Ok the board is built but I can't figure out how to program it. I know about http://www.tmk-kbd.com/tmk_keyboard/editor/alps64/index.html but not how to make it work.

Make the layout you want and export the hex file with the button at the bottom.  Open up the copy of FLiP you downloaded and plug in your keyboard.  Press the chip button on the left, and select your chip.  This PCB uses the ATmega32u2.  Then click the next button to the right and connect via USB, opening the connection.  While doing this, press the button on the back of your PCB.  It may take a few tries to connect correctly.  When you get it, load your hex file and Start Application.

If it went correctly, you will get no errors and your keyboard is ready.  Reconnect the keyboard and close FLiP.

[CommonCurt]

A question about the TMK Keymap Editor.  Which keycode is used for Fn? 

Which Fn do you mean? 

Do you mean the Fn like you would find on your laptop to adjust brightness settings or something?  According to \tmk_keyboard\tmk_core\doc\keymap.md section 1.5 and a little cross referencing of the code.  It looks like that isn't possible with the editor.  The code defines 32 Fn keys, but none of the current definitions would give the effect you would want if you said Yes to my question here.  If it is possible to make a key like that, it is beyond the current scope of the editor AFAIK.

Do you mean a function button to switch layers?  You can find those under the "Layer Switching and Etc." tab.  You can do lots of fun things with the layers.  The editor has the known fun things like mute, power off, mouse keys, etc. all ready to go.  If you want something outside that, you would need to dig into the code yourself.

Both of the answers I've provided are based on my understanding.  Asking hasu in the TMK firmware thread may be useful.

Yeah, I'll need to set up my arrow keys etc.  So I'm confused on which option to choose for making the key between my right ALT and right CTRL work as a Fn key.

Not sure what the difference is between "Layer Switch Momentary", "Layer Switch Toggle", "Layer Switch with Tap Toggle", & "Layer switch with Tap key".

[deductivemonkee]

A question about the TMK Keymap Editor.  Which keycode is used for Fn? 

Which Fn do you mean? 

Do you mean the Fn like you would find on your laptop to adjust brightness settings or something?  According to \tmk_keyboard\tmk_core\doc\keymap.md section 1.5 and a little cross referencing of the code.  It looks like that isn't possible with the editor.  The code defines 32 Fn keys, but none of the current definitions would give the effect you would want if you said Yes to my question here.  If it is possible to make a key like that, it is beyond the current scope of the editor AFAIK.

Do you mean a function button to switch layers?  You can find those under the "Layer Switching and Etc." tab.  You can do lots of fun things with the layers.  The editor has the known fun things like mute, power off, mouse keys, etc. all ready to go.  If you want something outside that, you would need to dig into the code yourself.

Both of the answers I've provided are based on my understanding.  Asking hasu in the TMK firmware thread may be useful.

Yeah, I'll need to set up my arrow keys etc.  So I'm confused on which option to choose for making the key between my right ALT and right CTRL work as a Fn key.

Not sure what the difference is between "Layer Switch Momentary", "Layer Switch Toggle", "Layer Switch with Tap Toggle", & "Layer switch with Tap key".

https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard/blob/master/tmk_core/doc/keymap.md
See section 2.2

[CommonCurt]

A question about the TMK Keymap Editor.  Which keycode is used for Fn? 

Which Fn do you mean? 

Do you mean the Fn like you would find on your laptop to adjust brightness settings or something?  According to \tmk_keyboard\tmk_core\doc\keymap.md section 1.5 and a little cross referencing of the code.  It looks like that isn't possible with the editor.  The code defines 32 Fn keys, but none of the current definitions would give the effect you would want if you said Yes to my question here.  If it is possible to make a key like that, it is beyond the current scope of the editor AFAIK.

Do you mean a function button to switch layers?  You can find those under the "Layer Switching and Etc." tab.  You can do lots of fun things with the layers.  The editor has the known fun things like mute, power off, mouse keys, etc. all ready to go.  If you want something outside that, you would need to dig into the code yourself.

Both of the answers I've provided are based on my understanding.  Asking hasu in the TMK firmware thread may be useful.

Yeah, I'll need to set up my arrow keys etc.  So I'm confused on which option to choose for making the key between my right ALT and right CTRL work as a Fn key.

Not sure what the difference is between "Layer Switch Momentary", "Layer Switch Toggle", "Layer Switch with Tap Toggle", & "Layer switch with Tap key".

https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard/blob/master/tmk_core/doc/keymap.md
See section 2.2

Thanks 

[hasu]

Thanks for your posts about assembly and FLIP,  BlueNalgene.

Alps64 PCB users,
Updated first post of my thread. Please read it in particular 'Check your PCB' section and  give test on your PCB once you receive it. You can post your question and problem specific to PCB in my thread, I'll check posts more in the thread.


Quoted from first post of Alps64 PCB thread:
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=69740.msg1674818#msg1674818

Check your PCB
Test your PCB before you start assembling. If you assemble it without this test and it doesn't work it could be very difficult to discrimitate between PCB's fault and yours.
 
1. Plug into USB port
You will see LED on bottom side flashes at startup. And it will be enumerated as a keyboard device by your OS.
 
In Windows you will find a entry like 'HID Keyboard Device' whose hardware id is like 'VID_FEED&PID_6464' in Device Manager.

Show Image

 
In Linux you will find a line like below in output of 'lsusb'
 

Code: [Select]

    $ lsusb
    ...
    Bus 001 Device 050: ID feed:6464
    ...
 and lines like below in log file such as /var/log/kern.log(ubuntu).
 

Code: [Select]

    Jan  4 23:05:28 desk kernel: [305237.996043] usb 1-1.3.1: new full-speed USB device number 52 using ehci-pci
    Jan  4 23:05:28 desk kernel: [305238.090594] usb 1-1.3.1: New USB device found, idVendor=feed, idProduct=6464
    Jan  4 23:05:28 desk kernel: [305238.090607] usb 1-1.3.1: New USB device strings: Mfr=1, Product=2, SerialNumber=0
    Jan  4 23:05:28 desk kernel: [305238.090613] usb 1-1.3.1: Product: Alps64
    Jan  4 23:05:28 desk kernel: [305238.090619] usb 1-1.3.1: Manufacturer: TMK
    Jan  4 23:05:28 desk kernel: [305238.093405] input: TMK Alps64 as /devices/pci0000:00/0000:00:02.1/usb1/1-1/1-1.3/1-1.3.1/1-1.3.1:1.0/0003:FEED:6464.008F/input/input121
    Jan  4 23:05:28 desk kernel: [305238.148208] hid-generic 0003:FEED:6464.008F: input,hidraw0: USB HID v1.11 Keyboard [TMK Alps64] on usb-0000:00:02.1-1.3.1/input0
    Jan  4 23:05:28 desk kernel: [305238.150044] input: TMK Alps64 as /devices/pci0000:00/0000:00:02.1/usb1/1-1/1-1.3/1-1.3.1/1-1.3.1:1.1/0003:FEED:6464.0090/input/input122
    Jan  4 23:05:28 desk kernel: [305238.204289] hid-generic 0003:FEED:6464.0090: input,hidraw1: USB HID v1.11 Mouse [TMK Alps64] on usb-0000:00:02.1-1.3.1/input1
    Jan  4 23:05:28 desk kernel: [305238.206226] input: TMK Alps64 as /devices/pci0000:00/0000:00:02.1/usb1/1-1/1-1.3/1-1.3.1/1-1.3.1:1.2/0003:FEED:6464.0091/input/input123
    Jan  4 23:05:28 desk kernel: [305238.260781] hid-generic 0003:FEED:6464.0091: input,hidraw2: USB HID v1.11 Device [TMK Alps64] on usb-0000:00:02.1-1.3.1/input2
    Jan  4 23:05:28 desk kernel: [305238.263008] hid-generic 0003:FEED:6464.0092: hiddev0,hidraw3: USBHID v1.11 Device [TMK Alps64] on usb-0000:00:02.1-1.3.1/input3
 
2. Open Notepad and make short circuit on a key
Connect pads of K01 and D01 with tweezer or papler clip like pic below. You will see 'm' is registered on Notepad. This indicates your PCB is likely to work well.

Show Image

 
 
If your PCB doesn't work as described above it may have fault, post your problem in this thread.




Assembly
See BlueNalgene's this post also.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=75491.msg1991884#msg1991884

1. Diode polarity
Diode has polarity and won't work if you solder it reversely. Diode has two leads, cathode and anode,  you can discrimitate them by cathode mark on it. Black marking side of diode is cathode lead and cathode should be soldered on square land while anode on round land.

Show Image

2. Soldering diodes
Don't solder diodes all at once, you should assemble some and test them at first to avoid losing your time in vain.
 
Solder just a few diodes and check if they work correctly by short circuit like pic below. You will see the key only is registered on your OS, use Notepad, or tools like AquaKeyTest, EK SwitchHitter or xev.

AquaKeyTest: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=34670.msg641440#msg641440
EK SwitchHitter: https://elitekeyboards.com/switchhitter.php
xev: http://www.x.org/archive/X11R7.7/doc/man/man1/xev.1.xhtml

Show Image

Of course, you should plug off PCB before soldering
 

SMT diode
TBD


3. Soldering switches
Again, don't solder switches all at once, you should test them occasionally during assembly. At this point testing is easy, just plug in, press a switch and see with one of softwares above.


4. Test all swtiches
After assembly is completed check if all switches work correctly with default firmware. Don't program controller with your firmware and don't change keymap until this test is finished. Your own firmware or keymap will make test/debug process difficult.



Program Controller
You can program(flash) firmware into controller via USB DFU protocol.

1. Program mode
To enter program mode(start DFU bootloader) hook up to USB port and press tiny push button on bottom side of PCB.

2. Software tool
Then you can program controller using your favorite software tool. Controller(MCU) of the PCB is ATmega32u2, you will have to designate it in your tool like FLIP or dfu-programmer.

FLIP: http://www.atmel.com/tools/FLIP.aspx
dfu-programmer: http://dfu-programmer.github.io/

With dfu-programmer you can run it like below in command line

Code: [Select]

dfu-programmer atmega32u2 erase --force
dfu-programmer atmega32u2 flash <your_firmware.hex>
dfu-programmer atmega32u2 reset
You may need to prepend 'sudo' to these in Linux and Mac OSX.

As for how to use FLIP see BlueNalgene's this post, consult with its help files or search on net.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=75491.msg1993990#msg1993990

Also see this.
https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard/blob/master/tmk_core/doc/build.md#program-controller




Troubleshoot
FLIP: AtLibUsbDfu.dll not found
Remove current driver and re-install one FLIP provides from DeviceManager of WIndows. http://imgur.com/a/bnwzy (Thanks, a-c)

[axtran]

Thanks for the extra info, hasu. I'll be sure to test all of my ALPS PCBs

[vivalarevolución]

Great explanation, hasu.  A huge help for those of us that are programming challenged.

[tjcaustin]

Got mine today and it's all finished already.  Comp whites and aekii caps.  It's pretty great.  Need to get a case and a better/hhkber layout programmed in though.

So clicky.

Pics ?   

#redditshot

[njbair]

Mine arrived at the office over the weekend, so I'm just now getting around to assembling the first one. I decided to start with my blue powdercoated HHKB plate with Matias Clicks. Everything went together fine except for the Matias stabilizers. Is anyone else having trouble with the Matias stabs and Badwrench's mods?

[sean]

Mine arrived at the office over the weekend, so I'm just now getting around to assembling the first one. I decided to start with my blue powdercoated HHKB plate with Matias Clicks. Everything went together fine except for the Matias stabilizers. Is anyone else having trouble with the Matias stabs and Badwrench's mods?

The wires are incompatible. the plastic mx stabs seem to be fine though.

[njbair]

Mine arrived at the office over the weekend, so I'm just now getting around to assembling the first one. I decided to start with my blue powdercoated HHKB plate with Matias Clicks. Everything went together fine except for the Matias stabilizers. Is anyone else having trouble with the Matias stabs and Badwrench's mods?

The wires are incompatible. the plastic mx stabs seem to be fine though.

Ok, so I'm not crazy. I must have missed that part up until now. I was able to bend and clip some of the 2U wires to work, now I just need to do something for the spacebar.

[merlin64]

What tool can I use to flash firmware? I'm on OSX running 10.10.5

The FLIP tool only has downloads for windows and linux

[hasu]

What tool can I use to flash firmware? I'm on OSX running 10.10.5

The FLIP tool only has downloads for windows and linux

Try FLIP on virtualbox or parallels VM and let us know whether it works or not if you have time enough. It would be nice for community to know.

But if you want to go straight just use another tool my post suggested

[sth]

*

[braidn]

Mine arrived at the office over the weekend, so I'm just now getting around to assembling the first one. I decided to start with my blue powdercoated HHKB plate with Matias Clicks. Everything went together fine except for the Matias stabilizers. Is anyone else having trouble with the Matias stabs and Badwrench's mods?

The wires are incompatible. the plastic mx stabs seem to be fine though.

Ok, so I'm not crazy. I must have missed that part up until now. I was able to bend and clip some of the 2U wires to work, now I just need to do something for the spacebar.

Ok I thought I was going crazy as well. What does this bend and lip mod look like? And will we have to do the same with Alpine Winter? Can we get away with a cherry 2u stab and have it work?

[skaloola]

What tool can I use to flash firmware? I'm on OSX running 10.10.5

The FLIP tool only has downloads for windows and linux

try http://dfu-programmer.github.io
brew install dfu-programmer

[njbair]

Mine arrived at the office over the weekend, so I'm just now getting around to assembling the first one. I decided to start with my blue powdercoated HHKB plate with Matias Clicks. Everything went together fine except for the Matias stabilizers. Is anyone else having trouble with the Matias stabs and Badwrench's mods?

The wires are incompatible. the plastic mx stabs seem to be fine though.

Ok, so I'm not crazy. I must have missed that part up until now. I was able to bend and clip some of the 2U wires to work, now I just need to do something for the spacebar.

Ok I thought I was going crazy as well. What does this bend and lip mod look like? And will we have to do the same with Alpine Winter? Can we get away with a cherry 2u stab and have it work?

The Cherry 2U stab wires are too tall and the "fingers" don't reach far enough back in. This is because Alps-style stabilizer clips are located more outward and rearward than the Cherry-style clips used on all SP caps.

To make it work, unbend the fingers so you are left with a U-shaped wire, or more accurately a rectangle without a top side. Then make new bends to end up with shorter sides and longer fingers. You basically want the sides to be about 2/3 as tall as they started. You'll then have to clip the fingers to make room for the switch in the middle.

I did the whole mod using two pairs of needle nose pliers to bend and unbend the wires, and a wire nipper to clip the ends to size.

I wish I had some pictures but I am not going in to the office today, if I have time tomorrow I'll do it then.

[merlin64]

What tool can I use to flash firmware? I'm on OSX running 10.10.5

The FLIP tool only has downloads for windows and linux

try http://dfu-programmer.github.io
brew install dfu-programmer

I ended up using a windows machine. I was unsure if FLIP worked with Windows 10, but it did! Just had to change the drivers to the one FLIP provided. Now all that's left are stabilizers supposedly coming on Thursday.

[braidn]

Mine arrived at the office over the weekend, so I'm just now getting around to assembling the first one. I decided to start with my blue powdercoated HHKB plate with Matias Clicks. Everything went together fine except for the Matias stabilizers. Is anyone else having trouble with the Matias stabs and Badwrench's mods?

The wires are incompatible. the plastic mx stabs seem to be fine though.

Ok, so I'm not crazy. I must have missed that part up until now. I was able to bend and clip some of the 2U wires to work, now I just need to do something for the spacebar.

Ok I thought I was going crazy as well. What does this bend and lip mod look like? And will we have to do the same with Alpine Winter? Can we get away with a cherry 2u stab and have it work?

The Cherry 2U stab wires are too tall and the "fingers" don't reach far enough back in. This is because Alps-style stabilizer clips are located more outward and rearward than the Cherry-style clips used on all SP caps.

To make it work, unbend the fingers so you are left with a U-shaped wire, or more accurately a rectangle without a top side. Then make new bends to end up with shorter sides and longer fingers. You basically want the sides to be about 2/3 as tall as they started. You'll then have to clip the fingers to make room for the switch in the middle.

I did the whole mod using two pairs of needle nose pliers to bend and unbend the wires, and a wire nipper to clip the ends to size.

I wish I had some pictures but I am not going in to the office today, if I have time tomorrow I'll do it then.

Ok... Yeah some pics would definitely help but I think I get what you are talking about. Will give it a whirl.

[njbair]

Mine arrived at the office over the weekend, so I'm just now getting around to assembling the first one. I decided to start with my blue powdercoated HHKB plate with Matias Clicks. Everything went together fine except for the Matias stabilizers. Is anyone else having trouble with the Matias stabs and Badwrench's mods?

The wires are incompatible. the plastic mx stabs seem to be fine though.

Ok, so I'm not crazy. I must have missed that part up until now. I was able to bend and clip some of the 2U wires to work, now I just need to do something for the spacebar.

Ok I thought I was going crazy as well. What does this bend and lip mod look like? And will we have to do the same with Alpine Winter? Can we get away with a cherry 2u stab and have it work?

The Cherry 2U stab wires are too tall and the "fingers" don't reach far enough back in. This is because Alps-style stabilizer clips are located more outward and rearward than the Cherry-style clips used on all SP caps.

To make it work, unbend the fingers so you are left with a U-shaped wire, or more accurately a rectangle without a top side. Then make new bends to end up with shorter sides and longer fingers. You basically want the sides to be about 2/3 as tall as they started. You'll then have to clip the fingers to make room for the switch in the middle.

I did the whole mod using two pairs of needle nose pliers to bend and unbend the wires, and a wire nipper to clip the ends to size.

I wish I had some pictures but I am not going in to the office today, if I have time tomorrow I'll do it then.

Ok... Yeah some pics would definitely help but I think I get what you are talking about. Will give it a whirl.

Basically you are making a hybrid Alps/Cherry stab wire. Note that if you ever switch back to stock Alps caps or Tai Hao or something, the Matias wires should work just fine. So save any extras you end up with.

[BlueNalgene]

Has anyone else tried a stab wire on an AT101W spacebar?  When I tried it, the fit was too tight.

I wonder if this is intentional or something that Matias might want to correct in the future.  It seems like good compatibility would benefit their sales.

[njbair]

Has anyone else tried a stab wire on an AT101W spacebar?  When I tried it, the fit was too tight.

I wonder if this is intentional or something that Matias might want to correct in the future.  It seems like good compatibility would benefit their sales.

I quickly checked the spacebar wire and noticed that it seems to be rubbing against the front of the switch. Some stab wires have an extra couple of bends to make room for the switch, that may be what's needed here.

The other thing I noticed, Blue, is that the powder coated plate is a little too thick for the Matias stab clips. I had to file down the "ears" on the wire clip side to make them fit snugly and not pop out.

[geniekid]

The other thing I noticed, Blue, is that the powder coated plate is a little too thick for the Matias stab clips. I had to file down the "ears" on the wire clip side to make them fit snugly and not pop out.

Yea that's the problem with powder coating - it's thick enough that you usually have to design around it (as far as keyboard parts go), especially for small jobs where the coating is applied manually.  Having to do a little filing is worth it for that blue though!  The plate will look so pretty with Alpine Winter!

[njbair]

The other thing I noticed, Blue, is that the powder coated plate is a little too thick for the Matias stab clips. I had to file down the "ears" on the wire clip side to make them fit snugly and not pop out.

Yea that's the problem with powder coating - it's thick enough that you usually have to design around it (as far as keyboard parts go), especially for small jobs where the coating is applied manually.  Having to do a little filing is worth it for that blue though!  The plate will look so pretty with Alpine Winter!

Can't wait!!!

[BlueNalgene]

The other thing I noticed, Blue, is that the powder coated plate is a little too thick for the Matias stab clips. I had to file down the "ears" on the wire clip side to make them fit snugly and not pop out.

That may have have just been luck of the draw.  Mine popped in just equally as well as the non-coated plate.  The powder coating person I used was told about the clearance and purposes of the cutouts and took pains to keep things within spec.  Sorry if it didn't work out for all of them.

[cheddarbek]

The other thing I noticed, Blue, is that the powder coated plate is a little too thick for the Matias stab clips. I had to file down the "ears" on the wire clip side to make them fit snugly and not pop out.

That may have have just been luck of the draw.  Mine popped in just equally as well as the non-coated plate.  The powder coating person I used was told about the clearance and purposes of the cutouts and took pains to keep things within spec.  Sorry if it didn't work out for all of them.

I had a dog of a time getting the matias clips to stick in my non-coated plate - it's like the plate was just too thick for them. I had no problems getting vintage stabs in the plate. Also, I wasn't able to use matias' wire on the right shift key, I ended up cannibalizing one from an old Alps board.

Overall not too big a deal, but I imagine those who don't have a couple old Alps boards lying around to borrow from might have issues.

Also, I'm noticing a really annoying ping sound when typing and using this case (Royal Glam wood). I imagine the wood is just a bit more resonant than the Tex aluminum I used on my round 2 hasu board. Anyone have a good recommendation on something I could stuff between the pcb and the case to reduce that ping sound a bit?

[BlueNalgene]

I had a dog of a time getting the matias clips to stick in my non-coated plate - it's like the plate was just too thick for them. I had no problems getting vintage stabs in the plate. Also, I wasn't able to use matias' wire on the right shift key, I ended up cannibalizing one from an old Alps board.

Overall not too big a deal, but I imagine those who don't have a couple old Alps boards lying around to borrow from might have issues.

Also, I'm noticing a really annoying ping sound when typing and using this case (Royal Glam wood). I imagine the wood is just a bit more resonant than the Tex aluminum I used on my round 2 hasu board. Anyone have a good recommendation on something I could stuff between the pcb and the case to reduce that ping sound a bit?

Bummer about the stabs being difficult.  The thickness of the plate is just on the outside edge of the specs for the Matias switches.  Though I haven't seen a schematic of the stab parts from Matias, I expect they would have similar tolerances.  What I find interesting is that these problems are reported with the stab clips and not the switches.

I also had a pinging issue with my cases.  I used a generic Al case.  I eliminated the sounds or minimized it below my hearing threshold by using vinyl wrap.  I originally used some vinyl wrap on the bottom of the case because some users of the previous hasu runs reported shorting with the diodes on metallic cases.  After discovering the sounds, I also put heat-shrunk vinyl wrap on the standoff areas where the PCB made contact with the case.  If you don't have any wrap on hand, you might have some electrical tape.  That might help by acting as a dampener between the PCB and the case.

[nathanrosspowell]

Also, I'm noticing a really annoying ping sound when typing and using this case (Royal Glam wood). I imagine the wood is just a bit more resonant than the Tex aluminum I used on my round 2 hasu board. Anyone have a good recommendation on something I could stuff between the pcb and the case to reduce that ping sound a bit?

I just chopped up an old mouse mat. It was thin neoprene. Others have used shelve liner:

[itzmeluigi]

I had a dog of a time getting the matias clips to stick in my non-coated plate - it's like the plate was just too thick for them. I had no problems getting vintage stabs in the plate. Also, I wasn't able to use matias' wire on the right shift key, I ended up cannibalizing one from an old Alps board.

Overall not too big a deal, but I imagine those who don't have a couple old Alps boards lying around to borrow from might have issues.

Also, I'm noticing a really annoying ping sound when typing and using this case (Royal Glam wood). I imagine the wood is just a bit more resonant than the Tex aluminum I used on my round 2 hasu board. Anyone have a good recommendation on something I could stuff between the pcb and the case to reduce that ping sound a bit?

Bummer about the stabs being difficult.  The thickness of the plate is just on the outside edge of the specs for the Matias switches.  Though I haven't seen a schematic of the stab parts from Matias, I expect they would have similar tolerances.  What I find interesting is that these problems are reported with the stab clips and not the switches.

I also had a pinging issue with my cases.  I used a generic Al case.  I eliminated the sounds or minimized it below my hearing threshold by using vinyl wrap.  I originally used some vinyl wrap on the bottom of the case because some users of the previous hasu runs reported shorting with the diodes on metallic cases.  After discovering the sounds, I also put heat-shrunk vinyl wrap on the standoff areas where the PCB made contact with the case.  If you don't have any wrap on hand, you might have some electrical tape.  That might help by acting as a dampener between the PCB and the case.

Do you know which type of SMD diodes should be used instead of the stock included ones? I want to use the SMD ones to be sure that they wont short with an Alu case.

[BlueNalgene]

Do you know which type of SMD diodes should be used instead of the stock included ones? I want to use the SMD ones to be sure that they wont short with an Alu case.

The solder pads are designed for the SOD-123 footprint.  While hasu's KiCAD files don't behave on my machine and I can't view the layout, in the .cmp file he uses "IdModule  = keyboard_parts:D_SOD123_axial;"

[itzmeluigi]

Do you know which type of SMD diodes should be used instead of the stock included ones? I want to use the SMD ones to be sure that they wont short with an Alu case.

The solder pads are designed for the SOD-123 footprint.  While hasu's KiCAD files don't behave on my machine and I can't view the layout, in the .cmp file he uses "IdModule  = keyboard_parts:D_SOD123_axial;"

Thanks, i found these ones, but im going to wait and ask hasu just in case theres specific specs it requires.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/200-PCS-1N4148-1206-IN4148-SOD-123-SMD-SWITCHING-DIODE-/301210017692

[hasu]

Do you know which type of SMD diodes should be used instead of the stock included ones? I want to use the SMD ones to be sure that they wont short with an Alu case.

The solder pads are designed for the SOD-123 footprint.  While hasu's KiCAD files don't behave on my machine and I can't view the layout, in the .cmp file he uses "IdModule  = keyboard_parts:D_SOD123_axial;"

Thanks, i found these ones, but im going to wait and ask hasu just in case theres specific specs it requires.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/200-PCS-1N4148-1206-IN4148-SOD-123-SMD-SWITCHING-DIODE-/301210017692

Added sction about SMT diodes. Check the first post again.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=69740.msg1674818#msg1674818

SMT diode
You can use SMT(SMD) diodes instead of through hole(TH) devices. Its footprint is SOD123, I tested PCB with DIODES inc. 1N4148W.

Some cases have thick PCB supports(standoffs and beams?) which interfere with some of TH diodes and make short circuit. To avoid this you can use SMT diodes for them(D00, D10, D20, D22, D23, D24, D25, D26, D27, D30, D31, D36, D55, D63, D65, D70, D73). And you will have to tape on TH pads to prevent from shortcircuit.

[stoic-lemon]

My package arrived just now. Tested as per the instructions and it all looks good. Next step is to solder on a few diodes. Thanks to the guys that made all this possible.

[deductivemonkee]

Mine made it to Canada yesterday, it should be here this week
Just gotta hope it'll fit in the community package box and i wont get a damn "pick it up next week at the post office" slip 

[swimmingbird]

Just got all my stuff

Thank you for running this bluenalgene - you run a tight shop

First time using alps and although I don't have any keycaps to try with them, quiet clicks feel amazing and way better than anything I've ever used

[ShadeDream]

Just got all my stuff

Thank you for running this bluenalgene - you run a tight shop

First time using alps and although I don't have any keycaps to try with them, quiet clicks feel amazing and way better than anything I've ever used

I was moderately concerned I wouldn't like my quiet clicks when comparing the AEK creams I had laying around to the orange alps in my Apple standard keyboard, but I've been pleasantly surprised by the Matias switches. I've been switching back and forth between it, MX browns and MX clears and am pretty happy overall with the feel. My wife is trying to get me to use it instead at home because it's so much quieter than both of my MX boards.

[njbair]

Just got all my stuff

Thank you for running this bluenalgene - you run a tight shop

First time using alps and although I don't have any keycaps to try with them, quiet clicks feel amazing and way better than anything I've ever used

Quiet Clicks are underrated IMO. Probably because they are "clones." But I would say they are tied with Zealios for the best-feeling switches currently in production. When you factor in the fact that they are cheaper than Zealios and that buying old switches is always a gamble, they are probably the safest bet these days.

[CommonCurt]

Just got all my stuff

Thank you for running this bluenalgene - you run a tight shop

First time using alps and although I don't have any keycaps to try with them, quiet clicks feel amazing and way better than anything I've ever used

Quiet Clicks are underrated IMO. Probably because they are "clones." But I would say they are tied with Zealios for the best-feeling switches currently in production. When you factor in the fact that they are cheaper than Zealios and that buying old switches is always a gamble, they are probably the safest bet these days.

I like the "Quiet" Clicks way more then I thought I would.  I totally expected to like Matias Clickys better, but the QC's just feel better to me.
Don't get me wrong. I do like the Clickys also, but if I had to choose one it would be the QC's.

[MAR82]

Got my stuff in the mail today, and everything looks great! 
A+ work on this GB 

Now I just wish I went with clicky switches 

[tofgerl]

Delivery date unknown... Sigh...

[BlueNalgene]

The latest round of stuff has gone out (extra switches, people asking for a delay, etc.).

Delivery date unknown... Sigh...

The CONUS orders got a tracking number and the INTL orders got a confirmation number.  The difference is that the confirmation number only tells you basic arrival information.  It depends on what arrangements your country's postal service has with the USPS though.  Just have faith, it will get there and be a lovely surprise for you.

[tofgerl]

Nah, I know exactly where it is - between Chicago and Oslo

[BlueNalgene]

Nah, I know exactly where it is - between Chicago and Oslo

50.89599   -38.43878

[tofgerl]

Does anyone here have a SCUBA suit I could borrow...?

[sean]

Just got all my stuff

Thank you for running this bluenalgene - you run a tight shop

First time using alps and although I don't have any keycaps to try with them, quiet clicks feel amazing and way better than anything I've ever used

Quiet Clicks are underrated IMO. Probably because they are "clones." But I would say they are tied with Zealios for the best-feeling switches currently in production. When you factor in the fact that they are cheaper than Zealios and that buying old switches is always a gamble, they are probably the safest bet these days.

I like the "Quiet" Clicks way more then I thought I would.  I totally expected to like Matias Clickys better, but the QC's just feel better to me.
Don't get me wrong. I do like the Clickys also, but if I had to choose one it would be the QC's.

I love quiet clicks as a "daily driver" keyswitch, and will most likely put them on all of the keyboards that I think I'll be using often. Maybe once I try out orange switches I'll like them better, but as njbair said buying old switches are always a gamble. Considering it took me an extraordinarily long time to get my SKCM blues to feel consistent with one another, it's nice to know quiet clicks will always feel crisp and uniform.

[Tyr]

Quiet Clicks are underrated IMO. Probably because they are "clones." But I would say they are tied with Zealios for the best-feeling switches currently in production. When you factor in the fact that they are cheaper than Zealios and that buying old switches is always a gamble, they are probably the safest bet these days.

Just got my stuff today and I was just thinking how similar the Quit Clicks felt to my Zealios. Perfect for me as they are my favored switches at the moment.

My pcb had been tested and the plate is nice and heavy and very... blue  I'd say shockingly blue even at first. The stabs seem tight and rattle-y, but maybe some lube will help. I was going to put on these cheapo double-shots until I realized the spacebar wouldn't fit the hhkb laybout, and Alps keycap are tight as f***. Seriously, I'd rather put on Alpine Winter in the first place and then pray I never have to take it off.

[sean]

Quiet Clicks are underrated IMO. Probably because they are "clones." But I would say they are tied with Zealios for the best-feeling switches currently in production. When you factor in the fact that they are cheaper than Zealios and that buying old switches is always a gamble, they are probably the safest bet these days.

Just got my stuff today and I was just thinking how similar the Quit Clicks felt to my Zealios. Perfect for me as they are my favored switches at the moment.

My pcb had been tested and the plate is nice and heavy and very... blue  I'd say shockingly blue even at first. The stabs seem tight and rattle-y, but maybe some lube will help. I was going to put on these cheapo double-shots until I realized the spacebar wouldn't fit the hhkb laybout, and Alps keycap are tight as f***. Seriously, I'd rather put on Alpine Winter in the first place and then pray I never have to take it off.

Show Image

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Badwrench's modifiers were really not tight at all (at least for me) so I would imagine AW wont be too tight either. As for the HHKB spacebar, does anybody know of an Alps spacebar that will work with a HHKB layout?

[njbair]

Quiet Clicks are underrated IMO. Probably because they are "clones." But I would say they are tied with Zealios for the best-feeling switches currently in production. When you factor in the fact that they are cheaper than Zealios and that buying old switches is always a gamble, they are probably the safest bet these days.

Just got my stuff today and I was just thinking how similar the Quit Clicks felt to my Zealios. Perfect for me as they are my favored switches at the moment.

My pcb had been tested and the plate is nice and heavy and very... blue  I'd say shockingly blue even at first. The stabs seem tight and rattle-y, but maybe some lube will help. I was going to put on these cheapo double-shots until I realized the spacebar wouldn't fit the hhkb laybout, and Alps keycap are tight as f***. Seriously, I'd rather put on Alpine Winter in the first place and then pray I never have to take it off.

Show Image

Show Image

Badwrench's modifiers were really not tight at all (at least for me) so I would imagine AW wont be too tight either. As for the HHKB spacebar, does anybody know of an Alps spacebar that will work with a HHKB layout?

The 6U AW spacebar will work with HHKB

[sean]

Quiet Clicks are underrated IMO. Probably because they are "clones." But I would say they are tied with Zealios for the best-feeling switches currently in production. When you factor in the fact that they are cheaper than Zealios and that buying old switches is always a gamble, they are probably the safest bet these days.

Just got my stuff today and I was just thinking how similar the Quit Clicks felt to my Zealios. Perfect for me as they are my favored switches at the moment.

My pcb had been tested and the plate is nice and heavy and very... blue  I'd say shockingly blue even at first. The stabs seem tight and rattle-y, but maybe some lube will help. I was going to put on these cheapo double-shots until I realized the spacebar wouldn't fit the hhkb laybout, and Alps keycap are tight as f***. Seriously, I'd rather put on Alpine Winter in the first place and then pray I never have to take it off.

Show Image

Show Image

Badwrench's modifiers were really not tight at all (at least for me) so I would imagine AW wont be too tight either. As for the HHKB spacebar, does anybody know of an Alps spacebar that will work with a HHKB layout?

The 6U AW spacebar will work with HHKB

Oh great, now I have to kick myself for not getting a second AW set

[Tyr]

Badwrench's modifiers were really not tight at all (at least for me) so I would imagine AW wont be too tight either. As for the HHKB spacebar, does anybody know of an Alps spacebar that will work with a HHKB layout?

Good to hear about the tightness, or lack thereof. In contrast to the stabs the switches on my plate aren't grabbed too tightly, so I was afraid that pulling on them to hard  would put all the stress on the soldered connections and pcb. Also I've become cautious since I nearly wrecked a Cherry clear switch removing the cap AW's "infinity spacebar" is 6u which is the HHKB size (Edit: beaten to it). At least I hope it is or I have a problem (Edit: reassured, thanks njbair)