[GB] Alps Party 60% - Hannibal at the Gates

[Pikly]

I struggled and struggled with desoldering until I bought a proper desoldering gun

If you are serious about the hobby and intend on building and modding yours boards in the future I would highly recommend getting one - you can FULLY desolder a joint in <10 seconds whereas I struggled to do one joint in less than a minute with braid and/or the crappy suction pumps that come with many soldering kits

I second this. I originally was going to use a desoldering braid, but quickly opted to use the desoldering station at work after trying to desolder one switch. The station at work had a soldering nozzle that melted the solder and then sucked it in with a pump. Literally less than 5 seconds for each pin, was so much easier.

[stoic-lemon]

I desoldered an AEKII last week. It was my first time and it was rather annoying, especially with the switches that had their legs bent over the PCB. I was glad to have a good iron, solar sucker, and wick. I used tweezers to coax the stubborn ones out. Still ended up with bruised fingers from squeezing and pulling them.

Now I have to clean them, which I'm not looking forward to. Is it best to get inside every one? The board was very dirty, but I have no lube, so I'm not sure what I would do once I got them open.

[tofgerl]

I asked in the simple questions topic as well, but here goes:

I effed up on the 1 key, and had to desolder it. (Only one of the leads from the switch was in the hole, the other had folded and was stuck between the PCB and the switch housing).
Only now the switch doesn't register after I replaced it. I think I simply tore out the 'cable' around the hole.

So, how do I fix this? I can think of two options, neither of which sound like fun, but I am NOT giving up!

Option 1: Use one of the three free switch positions for KC_1 in the keymap, and put a cable between the leads of the switch and the new position.
Option 2: Somehow redo the original trace on the PCB, or at least replace the connection with something else - just a copper wire?

[phosphoric]

I struggled and struggled with desoldering until I bought a proper desoldering gun

If you are serious about the hobby and intend on building and modding yours boards in the future I would highly recommend getting one - you can FULLY desolder a joint in <10 seconds whereas I struggled to do one joint in less than a minute with braid and/or the crappy suction pumps that come with many soldering kits

I second this. I originally was going to use a desoldering braid, but quickly opted to use the desoldering station at work after trying to desolder one switch. The station at work had a soldering nozzle that melted the solder and then sucked it in with a pump. Literally less than 5 seconds for each pin, was so much easier.

i considered getting on briefly after seeing these posts, but after googling prices... is there a budget one you would recommend, swimmingbird?

[flabbergast]

I asked in the simple questions topic as well, but here goes:

I effed up on the 1 key, and had to desolder it. (Only one of the leads from the switch was in the hole, the other had folded and was stuck between the PCB and the switch housing).
Only now the switch doesn't register after I replaced it. I think I simply tore out the 'cable' around the hole.

So, how do I fix this? I can think of two options, neither of which sound like fun, but I am NOT giving up!

Option 1: Use one of the three free switch positions for KC_1 in the keymap, and put a cable between the leads of the switch and the new position.
Option 2: Somehow redo the original trace on the PCB, or at least replace the connection with something else - just a copper wire?

You should first diagnose where the problem is exactly. That means checking the connections with a multimeter: is there a connection between:
a) one pin and the appropriate diode pad?
b) the other pin and the appropriate row (or column, I don't know how did hasu design it). {You can find out what's "appropriate" by checking the neighbouring key connections with the multimeter.}

When you find which of the connections is problematic, you can just replace it by soldering a wire to the switch pin on one end, and to the appropriate place on the other end.

EDIT: If you don't have a multimeter, you can use hasu's "tweezers method": https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=69740.0

[tofgerl]

I have a multimeter, but it's in storage...

Edit: Tweezers are for wimps, I did it with a length of solder and a can of beer. The beer is optional.

Edit2: Success! The break was between the solderpoint for the diode and the solderpoint for the switch, so I just put in a new diode directly.

Thanks, Flabber!

[VinnyCordeiro]

I struggled and struggled with desoldering until I bought a proper desoldering gun

If you are serious about the hobby and intend on building and modding yours boards in the future I would highly recommend getting one - you can FULLY desolder a joint in <10 seconds whereas I struggled to do one joint in less than a minute with braid and/or the crappy suction pumps that come with many soldering kits

I second this. I originally was going to use a desoldering braid, but quickly opted to use the desoldering station at work after trying to desolder one switch. The station at work had a soldering nozzle that melted the solder and then sucked it in with a pump. Literally less than 5 seconds for each pin, was so much easier.

i considered getting on briefly after seeing these posts, but after googling prices... is there a budget one you would recommend, swimmingbird?

You can build your own!

[phosphoric]

I struggled and struggled with desoldering until I bought a proper desoldering gun

If you are serious about the hobby and intend on building and modding yours boards in the future I would highly recommend getting one - you can FULLY desolder a joint in <10 seconds whereas I struggled to do one joint in less than a minute with braid and/or the crappy suction pumps that come with many soldering kits

I second this. I originally was going to use a desoldering braid, but quickly opted to use the desoldering station at work after trying to desolder one switch. The station at work had a soldering nozzle that melted the solder and then sucked it in with a pump. Literally less than 5 seconds for each pin, was so much easier.

i considered getting on briefly after seeing these posts, but after googling prices... is there a budget one you would recommend, swimmingbird?

You can build your own!

oh god... i wish but i have none of the parts and the sound is deafening. i was thinking of picking this up; saw it in another thread. does anybody have any experience with it?

[tofgerl]

TL;DR review of this GB:
Blue Nalgene rocks!
Having specific plates for each layout makes building SOOOO much easier, even if it makes it more difficult to choose.
Diodes are fiddly as ****!
Quiet Clicks are MUCH better than Clicks.

[merlin64]

I already built mine and I am happy, but I'm already ready for more haha.

[vivalarevolución]

I already built mine and I am happy, but I'm already ready for more haha.

Seconded here.  Maybe a couple of us need to band together and open up an Alps/Matias DIY webstore.

[phosphoric]

I already built mine and I am happy, but I'm already ready for more haha.

Seconded here.  Maybe a couple of us need to band together and open up an Alps/Matias DIY webstore.

the custom keyboard bug has bit me... i wanna make another keyboard

[deductivemonkee]

What temp should I use? I picked up some 1.2mm (0.05) 60/40 leaded solder

[merlin64]

I already built mine and I am happy, but I'm already ready for more haha.

Seconded here.  Maybe a couple of us need to band together and open up an Alps/Matias DIY webstore.

That is not a bad idea. I live about an hour away from Signature Plastics so if anything I could probably get keycaps much easier. Plates, switches, PCBs are another story.

[sean]

What temp should I use? I picked up some 1.2mm (0.05) 60/40 leaded solder

The max temp on my soldering iron is only 400F and that worked fine. 600F-700F (~350C) is more what you're looking for.

[phosphoric]

does anybody have any idea why the keymap editor doesn't generate the hex file of the layout i created? all the hex files are standard ansi layout

nevermind... got it working. if this is an issue for anybody else in the future, it's not a problem with hasu's site - it was my own error. "erase target device memory," and then "program target device memory," and then click "start application."

also, thanks for running this blue. the aek ii that the switches, caps, and stabs were harvested from has a lot more significance because of recent real-life events, and being able to use them every day rather than allowing the original keyboard to collect dust in a closet means a lot

just kidding. i had to flash new firmware to add some keys and another fn layer, but couldn't get it to work for my life.

i figured it out, again, and the solution is as listed below

note that opening up device manager and keeping an eye on your devices is going to help significantly if you need to troubleshoot the same way i did.

• connect pcb to computer with usb cable and enter programming mode by pressing the button on the bottom of the pcb
• open up flip and select the atmega32u2 under controllers in the button on the far left
• connect to usb by pressing ctrl + u or by selecting the usb icon and choosing usb, and then hit open
• before choosing any firmware using the load .hex button, make sure that you hit run on the bottom left, leaving all four checkboxes checked (erase, blank check, program, verify)
• load your .hex file using the button that has a down arrow into a book
• press "run" again and wait for all four dots to turn green
• press "start application" and check your device manager - if done correctly, the "atmel usb device" listed will disappear and your keyboard should reappear under the keyboards section

i figure that nobody had nearly as much trouble as i did with this - and it certainly seems that way judging from the lack of questions about it, but i'm so new to this and knowing all of this before struggling with trying to get my firmware to work would have been helpful haha.

[tofgerl]

Dfu programmer is usually easier

[deductivemonkee]

Finished soldering, but some keys are actuating other keys.
0 = 1-=(backs)
- = 1-=(backs)
o = op]q
caps = (caps)(esc),/
k = ka;(enter)
L = (tab)L'\
m = (lshift)m.(rshift)
, = (esc),'/
lwin = (lctrl)(ralt)(rwin)(rctrl)
menu = (lctrl)(ralt)(rwin)(rctrl)

[njbair]

Finished soldering, but some keys are actuating other keys.
0 = 1-=(backs)
- = 1-=(backs)
o = op]q
caps = (caps)(esc),/
k = ka;(enter)
L = (tab)L'\
m = (lshift)m.(rshift)
, = (esc),'/
lwin = (lctrl)(ralt)(rwin)(rctrl)
menu = (lctrl)(ralt)(rwin)(rctrl)

I'm just gonna take a wild guess that you've got some diodes soldered in backwards.

[deductivemonkee]

Finished soldering, but some keys are actuating other keys.
0 = 1-=(backs)
- = 1-=(backs)
o = op]q
caps = (caps)(esc),/
k = ka;(enter)
L = (tab)L'\
m = (lshift)m.(rshift)
, = (esc),'/
lwin = (lctrl)(ralt)(rwin)(rctrl)
menu = (lctrl)(ralt)(rwin)(rctrl)

I'm just gonna take a wild guess that you've got some diodes soldered in backwards.

tested the diodes before putting switches in, worked fine -_-

[sean]

Finished soldering, but some keys are actuating other keys.
0 = 1-=(backs)
- = 1-=(backs)
o = op]q
caps = (caps)(esc),/
k = ka;(enter)
L = (tab)L'\
m = (lshift)m.(rshift)
, = (esc),'/
lwin = (lctrl)(ralt)(rwin)(rctrl)
menu = (lctrl)(ralt)(rwin)(rctrl)

I'm just gonna take a wild guess that you've got some diodes soldered in backwards.

tested the diodes before putting switches in, worked fine -_-

Did everything work properly work when you tested the diodes? I can't imagine the problem would stem from when you installed the switches.

[deductivemonkee]

Finished soldering, but some keys are actuating other keys.
0 = 1-=(backs)
- = 1-=(backs)
o = op]q
caps = (caps)(esc),/
k = ka;(enter)
L = (tab)L'\
m = (lshift)m.(rshift)
, = (esc),'/
lwin = (lctrl)(ralt)(rwin)(rctrl)
menu = (lctrl)(ralt)(rwin)(rctrl)

I'm just gonna take a wild guess that you've got some diodes soldered in backwards.

tested the diodes before putting switches in, worked fine -_-

Did everything work properly work when you tested the diodes? I can't imagine the problem would stem from when you installed the switches.

No misspresses with diodes only, it happened with the switches.

[cheddarbek]

Finished soldering, but some keys are actuating other keys.
0 = 1-=(backs)
- = 1-=(backs)
o = op]q
caps = (caps)(esc),/
k = ka;(enter)
L = (tab)L'\
m = (lshift)m.(rshift)
, = (esc),'/
lwin = (lctrl)(ralt)(rwin)(rctrl)
menu = (lctrl)(ralt)(rwin)(rctrl)

I'm just gonna take a wild guess that you've got some diodes soldered in backwards.

tested the diodes before putting switches in, worked fine -_-

Did everything work properly work when you tested the diodes? I can't imagine the problem would stem from when you installed the switches.

No misspresses with diodes only, it happened with the switches.

Shorting on your case? I saw similar behavior with my aluminum Tex until I insulated it.

[deductivemonkee]

Finished soldering, but some keys are actuating other keys.
0 = 1-=(backs)
- = 1-=(backs)
o = op]q
caps = (caps)(esc),/
k = ka;(enter)
L = (tab)L'\
m = (lshift)m.(rshift)
, = (esc),'/
lwin = (lctrl)(ralt)(rwin)(rctrl)
menu = (lctrl)(ralt)(rwin)(rctrl)

I'm just gonna take a wild guess that you've got some diodes soldered in backwards.

tested the diodes before putting switches in, worked fine -_-

Did everything work properly work when you tested the diodes? I can't imagine the problem would stem from when you installed the switches.

No misspresses with diodes only, it happened with the switches.

Shorting on your case? I saw similar behavior with my aluminum Tex until I insulated it.

Not in a case yet, its on a mousepad

[deductivemonkee]

Found it, diode pins were shorting on the plate. Hope that's the only problem.

[tofgerl]

Is there a picture showing how much of the RShift stab thingies to cut?

[deductivemonkee]

Is there a picture showing how much of the RShift stab thingies to cut?

Just cut off tiny bits and keep testing it, took about half an hour for me. I used a kitchen knife

[deductivemonkee]

How do you load your own firmware? Every time I try to connect it wit flip it says "Could not open usb device". And yes, I'm putting it into programming mode.

[Pikly]

How do you load your own firmware? Every time I try to connect it wit flip it says "Could not open usb device". And yes, I'm putting it into programming mode.

Check the Device Manager, if the keyboard shows up as an unknown device when you put it into programming mode with the reset button, you'll need to update the driver with the one provided by flip. Here's a guide on doing that: http://imgur.com/a/bnwzy

[njbair]

How do you load your own firmware? Every time I try to connect it wit flip it says "Could not open usb device". And yes, I'm putting it into programming mode.

Check the Device Manager, if the keyboard shows up as an unknown device when you put it into programming mode with the reset button, you'll need to update the driver with the one provided by flip. Here's a guide on doing that: http://imgur.com/a/bnwzy

IIRC you actually want the 32U2 for hasu's Alps board.

[deductivemonkee]

How do you load your own firmware? Every time I try to connect it wit flip it says "Could not open usb device". And yes, I'm putting it into programming mode.

Check the Device Manager, if the keyboard shows up as an unknown device when you put it into programming mode with the reset button, you'll need to update the driver with the one provided by flip. Here's a guide on doing that: http://imgur.com/a/bnwzy

Thanks! That did the trick.

[deductivemonkee]

Now that I have my basic setup done, tell me fun stuff that you're adding with tmk!

[njbair]

Well since I'm probably the only person with a finished HHKB, including caps, I've got a minor issue to report.

I bent my own spacebar stabilizer wire to go with the Alps-style plate clips and Cherry-style cap clips. It was pretty easy to find the right size after a bit of trial and error. The spacebar works fine, except for a good deal of twist/rotation when the key is pressed down. This is because the Alps-style plate clips don't have nice little guide walls like the Costar-style stab clips do. Most Alps spacebars have that little plunger (a-la AEKII) to laterally stabilize the spacebar, but there's no spot for that on this plate nor the SP spacebar.

I'm still racking my brain trying to think of a solution for this, although I haven't devoted any time to actual testing. Perhaps somebody else has an idea I haven't thought of?

[deductivemonkee]

Well since I'm probably the only person with a finished HHKB, including caps, I've got a minor issue to report.

I bent my own spacebar stabilizer wire to go with the Alps-style plate clips and Cherry-style cap clips. It was pretty easy to find the right size after a bit of trial and error. The spacebar works fine, except for a good deal of twist/rotation when the key is pressed down. This is because the Alps-style plate clips don't have nice little guide walls like the Costar-style stab clips do. Most Alps spacebars have that little plunger (a-la AEKII) to laterally stabilize the spacebar, but there's no spot for that on this plate nor the SP spacebar.

I'm still racking my brain trying to think of a solution for this, although I haven't devoted any time to actual testing. Perhaps somebody else has an idea I haven't thought of?

My at101w spacebar does have a lot of "play" to it as well, I havent been able to think about it yet tough, I've been just typing and listening...

[njbair]

Well since I'm probably the only person with a finished HHKB, including caps, I've got a minor issue to report.

I bent my own spacebar stabilizer wire to go with the Alps-style plate clips and Cherry-style cap clips. It was pretty easy to find the right size after a bit of trial and error. The spacebar works fine, except for a good deal of twist/rotation when the key is pressed down. This is because the Alps-style plate clips don't have nice little guide walls like the Costar-style stab clips do. Most Alps spacebars have that little plunger (a-la AEKII) to laterally stabilize the spacebar, but there's no spot for that on this plate nor the SP spacebar.

I'm still racking my brain trying to think of a solution for this, although I haven't devoted any time to actual testing. Perhaps somebody else has an idea I haven't thought of?

My at101w spacebar does have a lot of "play" to it as well, I havent been able to think about it yet tough, I've been just typing and listening...

In hindsight it might have made sense to have pockets cut for both styles on the plate, although the extra holes would affect the look.

[braidn]

Well I guess this outa be interesting. Man stabalizers are a real pain

[VinnyCordeiro]

Soldered mine today. The right shift wire was a little too short, tried to make a new one using the 7u wire but it isn't very good - as a matter of fact the hand made wire is awful.

Now I need to make a new firmware, but not today.

[njbair]

The only thing I can think to do is to cut some Costar clips flat on the bottom, and epoxy them into place around the cap clips. But you'd have to be accurate because once it dries...

[deductivemonkee]

Figured I should post this.
Have z-case on order and black/blue cable is on the table behind me partially finished.



Whatever. Here's my full desk as well.

[merlin64]

Nice! What switches are you using and what case is that?

[deductivemonkee]

Nice! What switches are you using and what case is that?

Matias clicks and a case from aliexpress.

[Yoe]

Ok, so this is what came out of this party for me:



Probably my most anonymous build so far, but it's nice and portable, so.. I like it

Caps and stabs from Dell AT102W, orange Alps from a M0118, replicated Dell plate in stainless steel, case from Aliexpress… aaand the Hasu TMK64 Alps pcb from the party. I do miss my dedicated nav keys, but I'll get used to it.

[bocahgundul]

Can we get a round 2 of this GB? missed this gb because I don't know that alps is good 

[deductivemonkee]

Can we get a round 2 of this GB? missed this gb because I don't know that alps is good 

This was round 3...

[HoffmanMyster]

Can we get a round 2 of this GB? missed this gb because I don't know that alps is good 

This was round 3...

This was Round 1 for the "Party", no?  O.o  Round 3 for the PCBs maybe?

[njbair]

Can we get a round 2 of this GB? missed this gb because I don't know that alps is good 

This was round 3...

This was Round 1 for the "Party", no?  O.o  Round 3 for the PCBs maybe?

Originally in the IC, Blue called this "Alps Party 3 (60%)" but I think the word play was too cumbersome.

[BlueNalgene]

Originally in the IC, Blue called this "Alps Party 3 (60%)" but I think the word play was too cumbersome.

Actually, the "3" was in reference to the TMK PCB and the plate nubbinator did a GB with.  Then I learned that when nubbinator's AEKII GB didn't mean "AEK round 2" but actually meant "AEKII round 1", it started breaking down.  When I started adding things like switches and stabs to the buy, I just dropped the 3 altogether. 

However, this was still the third production round for hasu's PCB. 


Anyway, **** it.  This is Alps Party not Alps Semantics.  Call it whatever you feel like.  People will know.

[HoffmanMyster]

Anyway, **** it.  This is Alps Party not Alps Semantics.  Call it whatever you feel like.  People will know.

Wow, way to be a party pooper.

Here we were, all enjoying the party, talking semantics.  But NOOOOO, BN doesn't like that...

[BlueNalgene]

Anyway, **** it.  This is Alps Party not Alps Semantics.  Call it whatever you feel like.  People will know.

Wow, way to be a party pooper.

Here we were, all enjoying the party, talking semantics.  But NOOOOO, BN doesn't like that...

Sorry for busting up you're grammar Nazi Party.

[cheddarbek]

Anyway, **** it.  This is Alps Party not Alps Semantics.  Call it whatever you feel like.  People will know.

Wow, way to be a party pooper.

Here we were, all enjoying the party, talking semantics.  But NOOOOO, BN doesn't like that...

In Soviet Alps, group buys you?

Sorry for busting up you're grammar Nazi Party.