[GB] LZ : PhysiX [Complete]

[ullr]

On another note... whoever tightened the screws is at least as strong as hulk. Wasn't able to unscrew them with my small screw driver without worry of stripping the screws, going to try again tomo with better tools

No kidding. I also switched drivers so I wouldn't strip them. Every screw let out a loud crack before it turned, which was very worrying! It all worked out in the end though:

[blitz]

Do you guys think infilling the PhysiX logo is possible? Seems shallow but I’m not sure since I’ve never tried infilling before.

[brighenne]

I like this.

[noahf]

Do you guys think infilling the PhysiX logo is possible? Seems shallow but I’m not sure since I’ve never tried infilling before.

my j01 is infilled and looks awesome. im pretty sure you could do the same for this one. just take it slow and maybe do layers if its "deep"

[Damage]

Just got mine along with my Rama U80-A in what has to be one of the top mail days ever.



One question I had. I got the wrist wrest, and in the package with the board were two sets of clear bumpons: one large, one small. Is it correct to assume the smaller bumpons are for the keyboard and the larger ones are for the wrist wrest? Or vice-versa?

[mrpetrov]

Just got my grey. Top ano is great but bottom ano isn’t great. It looks like it wasn’t ano'd properly or something?

[loud_asian]

Just got my grey. Top ano is great but bottom ano isn’t great. It looks like it wasn’t ano'd properly or something?

Mine's the same with the grey anode. Doesn't bother me too much tho since I'll never really see it.

[2QT2BSTR8]

One question I had. I got the wrist wrest, and in the package with the board were two sets of clear bumpons: one large, one small. Is it correct to assume the smaller bumpons are for the keyboard and the larger ones are for the wrist wrest? Or vice-versa?

I used the small bump ons for the board and the big ones for the wrist rest.

[Lisinge]

One question I had. I got the wrist wrest, and in the package with the board were two sets of clear bumpons: one large, one small. Is it correct to assume the smaller bumpons are for the keyboard and the larger ones are for the wrist wrest? Or vice-versa?

Small ones for the board! I found out the hard way by putting the large ones on the board lol, it got really tall!  )

[Lisinge]

Anyone know which key to press and hold to flash with QMK?

FN + R. FN is the rightmost key (1u or 1.25u) on the left spacebar area. I will work on getting this into VIA!

Thanks for your hard work, and it would be awesome to have it supported in VIA!
How do you get it into reset mode when plugging it in? The same as usual by holding space and esc?

[kronograf]

One question I had. I got the wrist wrest, and in the package with the board were two sets of clear bumpons: one large, one small. Is it correct to assume the smaller bumpons are for the keyboard and the larger ones are for the wrist wrest? Or vice-versa?

Small ones for the board! I found out the hard way by putting the large ones on the board lol, it got really tall!  )

The large ones look perfectly sized for the circular cutouts on the board, though...

[King4477]

In my experience, 3M electronics bumpons will flatten over time under the weight of the keyboard. If you start with smaller bumpons, they will need the be replaced sooner.

Can’t confirm that’s what comes with this kit, haven’t received mine yet.

[Damage]

One question I had. I got the wrist wrest, and in the package with the board were two sets of clear bumpons: one large, one small. Is it correct to assume the smaller bumpons are for the keyboard and the larger ones are for the wrist wrest? Or vice-versa?

Small ones for the board! I found out the hard way by putting the large ones on the board lol, it got really tall!  )

The large ones look perfectly sized for the circular cutouts on the board, though...

He's right. The larger bumpons don't fit into the indentations on the bottom of the board. I tried it, too, and it was clear once I did.

[mrpetrov]

Does anyone know what the difference is between the two gasket types (white and black)?

They feel the same, I though it was just for colour preference ... anyone know anything about the little rubber/plastic pieces that came with the stabz? (not the heatshrink tube)

The little clear wedges that came with the stabs are used to keep the clip in stabs nice and firm - I go this pic from LZ.

[kronograf]

One question I had. I got the wrist wrest, and in the package with the board were two sets of clear bumpons: one large, one small. Is it correct to assume the smaller bumpons are for the keyboard and the larger ones are for the wrist wrest? Or vice-versa?

Small ones for the board! I found out the hard way by putting the large ones on the board lol, it got really tall!  )

The large ones look perfectly sized for the circular cutouts on the board, though...

He's right. The larger bumpons don't fit into the indentations on the bottom of the board. I tried it, too, and it was clear once I did.

Yeah I just figured that out 😅 they have borders so they actually do fit perfectly.

This is a really beautiful board! CF plate is one hell of a satisfying typing experience too.

[mrpetrov]

Rear anodisation aside, it really is a lovely board. The cf plate is terrific.

[steezkeez]

I don't wanna beat a dead horse here but just to super-confirm, I got both wrist rests and received 2 sets of large bump-ons and 1 set of small bump-ons. So the large ones are 100% intended for the wrist rests.

[mrpetrov]

Just finished building it and testing out the sound with and without the internal weight. I think, with the cf plate, I prefer the sound without the internal weight - seems a bit deeper without the weight. Board is still plenty heavy without the weight too!

[MajorKoos]

I don't wanna beat a dead horse here but just to super-confirm, I got both wrist rests and received 2 sets of large bump-ons and 1 set of small bump-ons. So the large ones are 100% intended for the wrist rests.

Yes. 
Large ones for the wrist rests and small ones for the case.

[mrpetrov]

Here's my typing test I just did - cf plate, no internal weight, tealios with vint black stems and lubed with 205g0

https://soundcloud.com/john-smith-640746691/lz-physix-cf-plate-no-internal-weight-tealios-vint-black-stems-205g0

[Smoff]

Here's my typing test I just did - cf plate, no internal weight, tealios with vint black stems and lubed with 205g0

https://soundcloud.com/john-smith-640746691/lz-physix-cf-plate-no-internal-weight-tealios-vint-black-stems-205g0

That sounds pretty noice

[mrpetrov]

Here's my typing test I just did - cf plate, no internal weight, tealios with vint black stems and lubed with 205g0

https://soundcloud.com/john-smith-640746691/lz-physix-cf-plate-no-internal-weight-tealios-vint-black-stems-205g0

That sounds pretty noice

Thanks, yeah, I'm *super* happy how it sounds (which to me is one of the most important things in a board). I'd actually really like to see how a pc half plate sounded.

I do recommend trying it out with and without the internal weight, and seeing which one sounds better to you.

[Zilliqa]

I do recommend trying it out with and without the internal weight

+1 no weight

All in all, very happy with the group buy and final product. Thanks LZ

[chits]

LZ plz tell me about them extras 

[flying1911]

This is one sexy board 

[regionfree]

The RED on this, if it's like the TX korean red finish, is going to be a killer. That finish is really gorgeous -- bright, intense and has a sparkly look to it.

[Full]

I guess batch #2 shipped today Woke up to SMS from DHL, delivery on Wednesday! woho 

[mrpetrov]

The internal design is pretty interesting to me. Looks like - without the internal weight - that the distance between the inside of the case and the bottom of the plate (not the pcb) is about 9.6mm - which is actually very shallow. Once you account for the distance from the base of the plate to the bottom of the switch pins, there is very very little space left between the switch pins and the case.

As a result, I am surprised by the inclusion of any weight at all and - I'm guessing here - if you remove the plastic covering from the weight you may get shorts from the switch pins touching the case in some areas and/or if you type firmly.

[DukeEsquire]

The internal design is pretty interesting to me. Looks like - without the internal weight - that the distance between the inside of the case and the bottom of the plate (not the pcb) is about 9.6mm - which is actually very shallow. Once you account for the distance from the base of the plate to the bottom of the switch pins, there is very very little space left between the switch pins and the case.

As a result, I am surprised by the inclusion of any weight at all and - I'm guessing here - if you remove the plastic covering from the weight you may get shorts from the switch pins touching the case in some areas and/or if you type firmly.

I noticed the same thing and did not remove my plastic film for that reason.

That said, I mill-maxed my board with the long mill-max sockets and everything still works. That's better clearance than some other boards (e.g.: Lin Montage, E6.5).

[macclack]

The internal design is pretty interesting to me. Looks like - without the internal weight - that the distance between the inside of the case and the bottom of the plate (not the pcb) is about 9.6mm - which is actually very shallow. Once you account for the distance from the base of the plate to the bottom of the switch pins, there is very very little space left between the switch pins and the case.

As a result, I am surprised by the inclusion of any weight at all and - I'm guessing here - if you remove the plastic covering from the weight you may get shorts from the switch pins touching the case in some areas and/or if you type firmly.

Can anyone confirm that removing the film from the plate results in shorts? While it's all internal and not visible from the outside, it would be kinda sad not to be able to see the SS in all its shiny glory.

[MajorKoos]

The internal design is pretty interesting to me. Looks like - without the internal weight - that the distance between the inside of the case and the bottom of the plate (not the pcb) is about 9.6mm - which is actually very shallow. Once you account for the distance from the base of the plate to the bottom of the switch pins, there is very very little space left between the switch pins and the case.

As a result, I am surprised by the inclusion of any weight at all and - I'm guessing here - if you remove the plastic covering from the weight you may get shorts from the switch pins touching the case in some areas and/or if you type firmly.

Can anyone confirm that removing the film from the plate results in shorts? While it's all internal and not visible from the outside, it would be kinda sad not to be able to see the SS in all its shiny glory.

I removed the plastic from mine without any issue.
(Built with a CF plate)
IIRC stainless isn't super conductive either when properly treated.

[mrpetrov]

The internal design is pretty interesting to me. Looks like - without the internal weight - that the distance between the inside of the case and the bottom of the plate (not the pcb) is about 9.6mm - which is actually very shallow. Once you account for the distance from the base of the plate to the bottom of the switch pins, there is very very little space left between the switch pins and the case.

As a result, I am surprised by the inclusion of any weight at all and - I'm guessing here - if you remove the plastic covering from the weight you may get shorts from the switch pins touching the case in some areas and/or if you type firmly.

Can anyone confirm that removing the film from the plate results in shorts? While it's all internal and not visible from the outside, it would be kinda sad not to be able to see the SS in all its shiny glory.

I know of one user who was getting shorts in a certain part of the pcb when she removed the plastic film from the weight (so she put it back on).

[pro_driver]

No shorting issues here after a couple days of use on the bare weight, fr4 and cf plates.  Now using without the weight though as the sound is preferable..

[mrpetrov]

Weird thing, but my pcb has sort of stopped working a couple of times today - just turns off. Have to reinsert the cable to get it to switch back on. Don't think it's the cable as I swapped it out and it still happened again eventually. I'll keep an eye out on it.

EDIT: yup the usb port has sort of died. Definitely not the cable, as I am using the same cable in different boards and it's fine. I think it's because the usb port is so high it puts undue strain on the port from the cable weight and eventually it degrades the connection between the port and the pcb. RIP?

EDIT 2: Update - I reflowed the solder connections on the USB port and after a couple of attempts it seems to be working fine now. I'll post if it starts dying again! I recommend using something to prop up the cable on this board given how high the port is. I'm using a blood oxygen tester I got in the early days of covid - finally found a use for it!

[macclack]

I wonder if attaching small bumpons to a few areas of the bottom of the PCB would prevent shorts. Probably just a couple in the middle would suffice.

[kronograf]

No shorting issues with cf plate either. So far.

[Mr_BeastQuake]

Weird thing, but my pcb has sort of stopped working a couple of times today - just turns off. Have to reinsert the cable to get it to switch back on. Don't think it's the cable as I swapped it out and it still happened again eventually. I'll keep an eye out on it.

EDIT: yup the usb port has sort of died. Definitely not the cable, as I am using the same cable in different boards and it's fine. I think it's because the usb port is so high it puts undue strain on the port from the cable weight and eventually it degrades the connection between the port and the pcb. RIP?

EDIT 2: Update - I reflowed the solder connections on the USB port and after a couple of attempts it seems to be working fine now. I'll post if it starts dying again! I recommend using something to prop up the cable on this board given how high the port is. I'm using a blood oxygen tester I got in the early days of covid - finally found a use for it!

The lead weight 3 inches from the point of connection probably doesn’t help the amount of stress being felt by the USB-C female.

It look coo doe

[Zurg Eon]

Here's mine. I'm quite happy with how it turned out. The switches touch the bare weight if I press on the plate, but I haven't noticed any signs of shortage.
Thanks LZ, take care! 

[Damage]

Anybody here use the plate-mounted stabilizers from LZ with the plastic shims to secure them?

My hobbyist sense tells me to go with screw-ins, but it would be nice if these things actually worked just as well.

[MajorKoos]

Anybody here use the plate-mounted stabilizers from LZ with the plastic shims to secure them?

My hobbyist sense tells me to go with screw-ins, but it would be nice if these things actually worked just as well.

If you've got some decent screw-in's I'd say use those and test the new ones on a cheaper/hot swap keyboard.
You know for sure the LZ is going to feel good and you have a great excuse to get another keyboard

[Damage]

Anybody here use the plate-mounted stabilizers from LZ with the plastic shims to secure them?

My hobbyist sense tells me to go with screw-ins, but it would be nice if these things actually worked just as well.

If you've got some decent screw-in's I'd say use those and test the new ones on a cheaper/hot swap keyboard.
You know for sure the LZ is going to feel good and you have a great excuse to get another keyboard

I mean, sure. Not that I need an excuse or don't have more keyboards coming.   But GMK stabs seem to be very hard to come by right now. Zeal/Durocks have wire-pop issues. C3 V2 stabs are pretty good but aren't in stock anywhere, AFAIK.

Would be nice to hear if somebody else had good luck with the plate mount + shim setup. Then again, I don't want to be the first to try on this particular endgamey build.

[King4477]

Honestly, unless I remove the keycaps and look, I often forget which stabs are on which board and can’t tell the difference. Installed and lubricated properly they all feel extremely similar to me. Sound is similar too if clipped and band aid modded. I’ve used GMK snap in, GMK screw in, v1 and v2 Zeal, clear and purple Durock (not sure if different), vintage screw in cherry and the latest round of C3 stabs.

[Mr_BeastQuake]

I thought the v2 zeal stabs do not have the wire popping out issues? I’ve never experienced it with this version.

[blitz]

Are the durock stab problems that bad? Haven’t had problems with mine.

[ywcsam]

Anybody here use the plate-mounted stabilizers from LZ with the plastic shims to secure them?

My hobbyist sense tells me to go with screw-ins, but it would be nice if these things actually worked just as well.

i am using them and they are good. with the plastic shims, they aren't going anywhere. you have to force very hard for the shims to go in all the way tho.

[DukeEsquire]

I've never had issues with Durock stabs. I have constant issues with my Zeal stabs.

[Damage]

I've never had issues with Durock stabs. I have constant issues with my Zeal stabs.

Good to know. Thanks!

[meiosis]

Built mine with Giant V1's.. From this thread is there really a shorting issue with the SS bottom? I was waiting for some liner before taking off the plastic protecting the steel weight.

[Mr_BeastQuake]

Built mine with Giant V1's.. From this thread is there really a shorting issue with the SS bottom? I was waiting for some liner before taking off the plastic protecting the steel weight.

So far one person knows someone who had a short possibly from this in one section of the board. I believe that's the tally.

I'm not deterred.

[mrpetrov]

Built mine with Giant V1's.. From this thread is there really a shorting issue with the SS bottom? I was waiting for some liner before taking off the plastic protecting the steel weight.

So far one person knows someone who had a short possibly from this in one section of the board. I believe that's the tally.

I'm not deterred.

Yeah, for the avoidance of doubt, it's always easy to put the liner (or a replacement liner) back on the SS in the unlikely circumstance you get shorting. Shorting is usually indicated by multiple characters coming up from a single keypress on certain keys.