Modding a micro usb connection port to one that is usb-c?

[tragicprivation]

Hello, I know the answer may depend on certain variables, but is it possible to do so?  The micro usb port and chord keep coming undone, its frustrating not to be able to use the one halfway decent KB I've ever had, any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.  Is it maybe possible to safely take the micro usb connection out altogether and attach a thick rubber cable instead?  Err, i mean i know that could likely be done, but if it's possible to simply mod a usb-c port in place of the micro usb one (without any compatibility issues) that'd be great.

[Leslieann]

It depends on the other end and how much future proofing you want to do.

If the other end is a USB type A port:
You can buy an extension and use it as a dongle or buy just a port, whatever, it's just a connector.

However, if the other end is a Type-C port or will be in the future, it's not that easy.
Type-C technically broke some USB standards and it will not initialize without telling what end of the cable it is (host or sub). This is easily fixed with a resistor across two wires.

There's more info in this thread. Be sure to read my comment where I linked the video.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=106442.0

[yui]

i thought that when a fault was detected usb-c reverted to normal old usb, i would guess that the absence of the high speed lanes to be such a fault and it would work, but then no one seems to implement usb-C in the same way, and i may be wrong.

[Leslieann]

Type-C is a mess.
Even if it worked, would it work in bios? Would it work on an Apple?

I'm not happy with the spec, but it's better to follow it and have it work than not follow it and wonder where you messed up if/when it doesn't work. It seems like a hassle but really we're talking one resistor.

[Findecanor]

Micro B sockets have surface-mounted pins, and you would have to solder cables to the narrow pins. Then secure the cable somehow in the case somehow so that it does not break if you'd yank it too hard. I don't think that would be easy.

I would try to get a short Micro-B extension cable and try to secure the male end in the keyboard in some way that doesn't look too bad. Maybe tape or hot glue or something...

i thought that when a fault was detected usb-c reverted to normal old usb, i would guess that the absence of the high speed lanes to be such a fault and it would work, but then no one seems to implement usb-C in the same way, and i may be wrong.

With USB A/B connectors, a connection starts on the old wires used by USB 2.0, and the rest is negotiated.
With USB C, it starts with the new CC pins. There are resistors of different values between CC pin(s) and VBUS or GND depending on the type of cable/device to tell the other end what it is.
The CC pins are also used for telling orientation, because the high-speed lanes are not duplicated on both sides, whereas the USB 2.0 pins are.

It's quite clever, but with all things clever the likelihood that it will be misunderstood and done incorrectly increases.

An extension cord from micro USB to male USB C needs one resistor.
A female USB C device socket needs two resistors.

[tragicprivation]

Thanks for the replies, and sorry for not clarifying the female micro usb port I'd like to mod is for a female USB 2.0 (or 3.0) port.  I got an ikbc mf-108 v2 some two months back, & the micro usb connection started flaking out < a month and a half after getting it.  By then the kinked 6 ft plastic cable that shipped with it had little traction left & had developed a fair amount of vertical play in it as well, until it just started shutting off intermittently. 

Came across posts from others in various forums, written before this time of quarantine, who said working with ikbc C.S. is all but fruitless. So I thought maybe it'd be just as well to try another solution.  Had I known better I'd have returned it while I still had the chance, or maybe gotten a 3 pack of better quality braided, 10 foot cables for $10-$15 before and not even used the cable it shipped with.  If I thought it'd be dependable I'd even consider using gorilla glue just to keep the thing on.  Just the same I'm grateful to have found this site.

[Maledicted]

Thanks for the replies, and sorry for not clarifying the female micro usb port I'd like to mod is for a female USB 2.0 (or 3.0) port.  I got an ikbc mf-108 v2 some two months back, & the micro usb connection started flaking out < a month and a half after getting it.  By then the kinked 6 ft plastic cable that shipped with it had little traction left & had developed a fair amount of vertical play in it as well, until it just started shutting off intermittently. 

Came across posts from others in various forums, written before this time of quarantine, who said working with ikbc C.S. is all but fruitless. So I thought maybe it'd be just as well to try another solution.  Had I known better I'd have returned it while I still had the chance, or maybe gotten a 3 pack of better quality braided, 10 foot cables for $10-$15 before and not even used the cable it shipped with.  If I thought it'd be dependable I'd even consider using gorilla glue just to keep the thing on.  Just the same I'm grateful to have found this site.

So the micro USB port still works, or?

I probably sound like a broken record, but I like my connectors and cables to actually last, so if I care about a keyboard, I usually drill a big hole in the case and wire up a female aviator socket and make a male aviator to type A cable, like so:









With construction like this, I can literally just roughly pull keyboards to me by the cable without even worrying about them.

[tragicprivation]

Maledicted, that's awesome!  A solution eliminating worry re connection problems from the board altogether, even the screw on cover looks awesome. Thanks for the reply.  The micro B port on my board works, but it's the worst feature of the mf108 for many.  If it's only used on a desk, maybe it'd be better.  But not all of us always type from desks lol.  The v3 supposedly has a usb C port & due for release, but who knows if or when. I've looked & still no pics found.

For now, I used pliers & it's working well, but I know its only a matter of time 'til it loosens again. Ultimately I can't think of a better solution than the one you posted, especially for board with a heavy aluminum case that comes with a crap micro B port.

[Maledicted]

Maledicted, that's awesome!  A solution eliminating worry re connection problems from the board altogether, even the screw on cover looks awesome. Thanks for the reply.  The micro B port on my board works, but it's the worst feature of the mf108 for many.  If it's only used on a desk, maybe it'd be better.  But not all of us always type from desks lol.  The v3 supposedly has a usb C port & due for release, but who knows if or when. I've looked & still no pics found.

For now, I used pliers & it's working well, but I know its only a matter of time 'til it loosens again. Ultimately I can't think of a better solution than the one you posted, especially for board with a heavy aluminum case that comes with a crap micro B port.

Thank you. I figure if somebody is going to put in the effort to modify the connector on their keyboard, or remove a permanently-attached wire, they may as well do something bomb-proof. The covers are available with titles such as this, with different options to choose from. I believe I was supposed to put the ring on the inside threads of the connector, which also would have fit with less ... force, but I also wanted that rubber washer to help keep the connector from twisting, and didn't want the tab with the chain anywhere near that F77's paint.

You used pliers to bend it? Have you taken the board apart? If there's no strap holding the female connector down, as Leslieann has pointed out should be on more modern micro devices in the past, and I don't plan on ever modding the connector, I usually just dump a bunch of high temperature hot glue all over it to hold it in place forever. You just have to make sure it isn't getting in the way of the casing and doesn't spill into the socket, etc. It isn't electrically conductive, at least not enough for me to ever notice anything wrong with doing janky things like that.

Whatever you end up doing, good luck.

[Leslieann]

The micro B port on my board works, but it's the worst feature of the mf108 for many.

Same problem with the GMMK.

Get a magnetic usb cable (amazon/ebay).
Yes, it will disconnect easy, but also reconnect easy and it completely de-stresses the port.

If you move it around a lot, it doesn't matter what connector it's going to either stress the connector or the pcb unless it has a detached port which few keyboards have.

[fohat.digs]

Get a magnetic usb cable (amazon/ebay).

I second this recommendation. I use these for everything, if you order from China they are very cheap but it takes 3 weeks.

Cables are about $4 and extra heads (feet?) are $2. I have 4 cables: front room, back room, car, and work. I have micro-USB and USB-C  connectors so that I can swap various devices with different connectors on the same cable in seconds, one-handed, in the dark!

[Maledicted]

Get a magnetic usb cable (amazon/ebay).

I second this recommendation. I use these for everything, if you order from China they are very cheap but it takes 3 weeks.

Cables are about $4 and extra heads (feet?) are $2. I have 4 cables: front room, back room, car, and work. I have micro-USB and USB-C  connectors so that I can swap various devices with different connectors on the same cable in seconds, one-handed, in the dark!

I never thought of checking Chinese sources. Aliexpress, I imagine? I would certainly have applications for these as well.

[fohat.digs]

I never thought of checking Chinese sources.

I don't see the exact ones I have, but I bought them over a year ago.

These are very similar and this was the brand name that I bought, which has performed flawlessly.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/USLION-3A-Magnetic-Cable-For-Micro-USB-Type-C-Magnet-Charger-Data-Fast-Charging/184230020703?hash=item2ae4f7065f:g:93oAAOSwZhpef3Uq

[Leslieann]

Just a word of warning on these (not the ones mention just in general).

Some are only a 2.0 data cable, some are only power cables.
Some are 3.0 power, some are 2.0 power.
While you get power regardless how it's connected, not all flow data when reversed.

Basically read reviews before you buy.