ErgoDox - Custom split ergo keyboard.

[yoobe]

mine...

[Heliobb]

@yoobe ?  The case is from where?

[yoobe]

@yoobe ?  The case is from where?

I ordered it on falbatech : http://falbatech.pl/prestashop/index.php?id_product=44&controller=product&id_lang=2
It is compact PVC case (no need for extra plate)

[yoobe]

I created a thread (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=74611.0) for adding Bluetooth to Ergodox with replacing the teensy with Bluefruit LE Micro board (https://www.adafruit.com/product/2661)
It is a board with the same micro controller of the ergodox (ATmega32u4) and a Bluetooth Low Energy HID capable chip.



The thread is not attracting people I guess.. maybe more luck here..

Anyone can tell me if it is possible? and maybe draw how to re-cable my existing ergodox with it..
I assume it is easy for an electronic engineer... not my case.

I will then check the firmware on how to change it to make it work.

thanks.

[vvp]

Nobody is responding since it is not an 20 minutes job but few hours job and ideally it should be done by somebody who has both ergodox and Bluefruit LE Micro.
One needs to decide how to map Bluefruit pins to Teensy pins and take into account whether
* it will be easier to connect them as they are positioned 1 to 1 as much as possible and then maybe scratch few traces on the PCB here and there and reconnect the traces elsewhere;
* or rather map the pins logically the same way as much as possible ... i.e. connect Bluefruit pads to the Teensy pads on the ergodox PCB using short jumper wires which will be crossing each other in a rather ugly way.

If you think you can modify the firmware then you probably understand low level C, GPIO and a tiny bit about protocols (I2C, port expander, matrix scanning, ...) and that means you can decide how to map Bluefruit pins to Teensy pins. It is not hard it is just laborious. Give it a try. Maybe post the mapping you think is best. Maybe somebody will comment on it.

[yoobe]

Yes as you advised I started to work on the mapping..


Here is what I have done for now:

• [size=78%]I checked the schematic of both bord and the pins of the atmega32u4 microcontroller..[/size]
• [/size][size=78%]I made an excel sheet where I identified the Pins of the 2 boards based on the micro-controllers pins[/size]

[/size]here is the result:[size=78%]

More

[/size]AtMega32u4Number BlueFruit Micro   Teensy   BlueFuit Pin OrTeensy Pin Order
[/size]   AREF     42        AREF      AREF (Interi      L14
[/size]   AVCC     44         3V           Vcc           L15
[/size]  AVCC1     24         3V           Vcc           L15
[/size]    D-       4         USB          USB        internal
[/size]    D+       3         USB          USB        internal
[/size]   GND      15         GND          GND           R16
[/size]   GND      PAD                     GND
[/size]   GND1     23         GND          GND           R16
[/size]   GND2     35         GND          GND           R16
[/size]   GND3     43         GND          GND           R16
[/size]   PB0       8                       B0           NA
[/size]   PB1       9         SCK           B1           L06
[/size]   PB2      10        MOSI           B2           L05
[/size]   PB3      11        MISO           B3           L04
[/size]   PB4      28     8 (BLE_CS)        B4           R09
[/size]   PB5      29          9            B5           R08
[/size]   PB6      30         10            B6           R07
[/size]   PB7      12         11            B7           R06
[/size]   PC6      31          5            C6           R12
[/size]   PC7      32         13            C7           R04
[/size]   PD0      18        3/SCL          D0           R14
[/size]   PD1      19        2/SDA          D1           R15
[/size]   PD2      20        0/RX           D2           L03
[/size]   PD3      21        1/TX           D3           L02
[/size]   PD4      25    4 (SWDIO/RST)      D4           R13
[/size]   PD5      22                       D5           NA
[/size]   PD6      26         12          D6/LED         R05
[/size]   PD7      27          6            D7           R11
[/size]   PE2      33         3V           GND           L15
[/size]   PE6       1      Z_BLE_IRQ   E6 (Interior      R10
[/size]   PF0      41         A5            F0           L07
[/size]   PF1      40         A4            F1           L08
[/size]   PF4      39         A3            F4           L09
[/size]   PF5      38         A2            F5           L10
[/size]   PF6      37         A1            F6           L11
[/size]   PF7      36         A0            F7           L12
[/size]  RESET     13         RST          RST           L16
[/size]   UCAP      6       G (GND)       3V/GND         R11
[/size]   UGND      5         GND          GND           R16
[/size]   UVCC      2         3V           Vcc           L15
[/size]   VBUS      7     VBUS (USB)      "+3V3"         R03
[/size]   VCC      34         3V           Vcc           L15
[/size]   VCC1     14         3V           Vcc           L15
[/size]  XTAL1     16       Y1/GND         GND           R16
[/size]  XTAL2     17         GND          GND           R16
[/size]                 DFU (BLUETOOTH)                  L01
[/size]                       BAT                        R01
[/size]                     G (GND)                      R02

• And then I made this mapping in photoshop

What do you think? 


I think there is room to remap some I/O but to port the ergodox different firmwares to this, it is better to keep same micro-controller pins the same way.




Now the difficult part for me... Is it better to have a small PCB made to remap the ergodox connections to the bluefruit or I need to make this with flexible cables?


Thanks

[yoobe]

Idea to have all mapped in a ergodox box :


what do you think?




I need to check the size of the board and the battery (here is the 2500 mAh http://www.adafruit.com/product/328)

bluefruit size: 51.0mm x 23.0mm x 4.5mm / 2.0" x 0.9" x 0.2"
battery Size: 2" x 2.55" x 0.30" (51mm x 65mm x 8mm)

[clickclack123]

Very interesting, yoobe. I have plans to make my own Ergodox-like board using a Bluefruit LE to use with my phone. It will be a single board, a lot like a Truly Ergonomic but without the Fkeys at the top. Kind of like an Atreus but with a few more keys.

At the moment, I'm thinking that I will try to keep it electronically lot like the Ergodox, using the Bluefruit LE for the keys on the right hand side, and a MCP23018 for the keys on the left hand side. Hopefully I'll be able to modify the TMK firmware to make it work as some of the pins have to be changed, but I'll try to keep the layout as similar as I can so it's not too much work to modify.

Make sure to let everyone know how you're going with your project.

[pkircher]

the matrix is actualy identical if you use the tmk firmware you should not need to change anything .. afaik the teensy flasher tool should still work .. there isnt much difference in it .. chipset is the same ..

as for charging the lipo : https://shop.pimoroni.com/products/powerboost-1000-charger-rechargeable-5v-lipo-usb-boost-1a-1000c

that should do

[clickclack123]

the matrix is actualy identical if you use the tmk firmware you should not need to change anything .. afaik the teensy flasher tool should still work .. there isnt much difference in it .. chipset is the same ..

as for charging the lipo : https://shop.pimoroni.com/products/powerboost-1000-charger-rechargeable-5v-lipo-usb-boost-1a-1000c

that should do

Wow, I think you're right! I had a quick look over the pins and it does look like you could design a board using a Bluefruit LE and MCP23018 and have the normal Ergodox firmware work with no modification (you'd have to modify it to use bluetooth of course).

For the power there's the Adafruit Pro Trinket LiIon/LiPoly Backpack Add-On.

Now I need to get back to learning pcb design. The hard part for me is getting the keys laid out at the weird angles and positions required for an ergo board.

I didn't think teensy flasher will work with anything but a teensy...

[pkircher]

you might dont have to redesign the pcb at all .. if you use say a small pcb over the orignal dox pcb 

so you build a layer ..

bt pcb
"pin switcher pcb"
ergodox

that should work just fine while it still fitts in a standart case .. the battery placment is a total different monster + placement of the lipo charger

it should just increase the height of the pcb by say .. 3 mm max

[clickclack123]

I want to build it as a portable board to use with my phone via bluetooth, so I want to build a one piece board, not split. Someone else can do the adapter board for the Ergodox. :-)

[pkircher]

its not an ergodox .. its a custom teensy like kb .. and therefor the wrong topic to be posted under thanks

[clickclack123]

Sorry. Please ignore.

[yoobe]

Very interesting, yoobe. I have plans to make my own Ergodox-like board using a Bluefruit LE to use with my phone. It will be a single board, a lot like a Truly Ergonomic but without the Fkeys at the top. Kind of like an Atreus but with a few more keys.

At the moment, I'm thinking that I will try to keep it electronically lot like the Ergodox, using the Bluefruit LE for the keys on the right hand side, and a MCP23018 for the keys on the left hand side. Hopefully I'll be able to modify the TMK firmware to make it work as some of the pins have to be changed, but I'll try to keep the layout as similar as I can so it's not too much work to modify.

Make sure to let everyone know how you're going with your project.

hi I started to work on this also... a 60% extended with BLE..
I ordered all parts.. I am waiting them to start soldering and programmin..

my thread https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=74802.msg1846517#msg1846517

I don't want to break my ergodox for the moment.. I use it at work

[wackottl]

I just realized I never told you guys about this.

Before the ergodox I used this wireless logitech board and I never took the receiver off my desk.   

This gives me NUM and CAP lock LEDs, very handy.

[bcredbottle]

I just realized I never told you guys about this.

Before the ergodox I used this wireless logitech board and I never took the receiver off my desk.   

This gives me NUM and CAP lock LEDs, very handy.

(Attachment Link)

My Ergodox has Num, Caps Lock, and Scroll Lock LEDs... I'm pretty sure you can solder them on if you have the right resistors

[wackottl]

It has them, but they are hidden under the keys and I can't see them.  Having that unit right in front of me was so convenient I never took it down.

[Heliobb]

It is about time that I showcased my "SchmergoDox", even though it does not have any case. It is quite modified which I think could be interesting to some.

(Attachment Link)

I had bought only bare PCBs in Massdrop's first run, because I had planned to build a simple and inexpensive board with PCB-mounted switches and reuse caps from old keyboards.

Unfortunately the 1u options for the outermost columns had misplaced pin holes, so I discovered that I needed to drill in the PCBs to fit the switches and use a plate to hold them.
I also found that the thumb keys were too far away... but I found that I could add an extra thumb key on each half, and that also required plates.

Because I think the column offsets on the ErgoDox are too small, I wanted to compensate by using both higher OEM profile and lower SP-profile to get somewhat of a dished effect. I had a rubber dome keyboard from BTC where the alphanumerics are SP-profile and Cherry MX-compatible but the larger keys are not. I ordered a matching set of lasered OEM-profile keys from WASD Keyboards about a year ago. The BTC caps are the same profile as Signature Plastics' keys and used for middle and ring finger columns, but unfortunately they sit higher than the OEM-profile WASD caps so the height difference is not as high as I had anticipated it would be... They were actually retr0brite'd a year or two ago but they seem to have yellowed again.
I based the layout somewhat on that of the µTron.

I made one universal plate design for both halves in QCad, using Litster's blueprints as starting point. I had them laser-cut of 1.5 mm acrylic at Ponoko because the laser-cutter at the local makerspace was broken. I had to wait a few months for my plates from Ponoko, and the first shipment was in the wrong scale even...
The good plates were then somewhat reinforced on the inside and painted. 1.5mm is not too thin for acrylic if there is a PCB and if you are careful during assembly. Afterwards I realized that I could have sandwiched two 1.5 mm plates, where the lower plate has larger holes for the switches and diodes.
All but the innermost 2u keys have Cherry plate-mount stabilisers. I had made an error with the stabilisers: I had placed them facing the same way as Costar stabilisers would - with the wire on the same side as the diode. So I had to remove the diodes that were beside the stabilised switches and place new diodes inside them.

I cut away the outermost thumb keys, because I wanted a smaller keyboard. I would have cut away some of the outer parts of the PCB also if they had not had mounting holes.
When drilling or cutting a PCB, which is made of fibreglass, it is important that you don't inhale any fibreglass dust - it can literally kill you. I used a vacuum cleaner on full close to the PCB all the time and wore a dust mask.

The TRRS sockets are not the recommended, but the FC68129 with its extra pins snipped off. Because I didn't solder the USB cable to the PCB, I needed to route a wire from the Teensy to the PCB to provide power for the left half: That is not necessary in later revisions of the PCB.
The cables are cheap Chinese cables I got on eBay.

The image below shows how I made the thumbkey mod. One key from the bottom row had to be sacrificed.
I insulated the ground plane in the new drill holes with tinted epoxy. I used one stabilising pin from each switch and snipped the other.
(Attachment Link)

I started on a case, designed in QCad and hand-cut from thin wood... but the wood I got wasn't flat enough and some of the corners were difficult. I could build it from styrene easy enough, but I don't quite like styrene.
I may build one later out of thicker lasercut plywood once I get access to the local makerspace's laser-cutter.

What is your layout for this edited ergodox? (I know it's a thread bump  )

[profet]

Idea to have all mapped in a ergodox box :


what do you think?


(Attachment Link)

I need to check the size of the board and the battery (here is the 2500 mAh http://www.adafruit.com/product/328)

bluefruit size: 51.0mm x 23.0mm x 4.5mm / 2.0" x 0.9" x 0.2"
battery Size: 2" x 2.55" x 0.30" (51mm x 65mm x 8mm)

Did you get anywhere with replacing the teensy with the Bluefruit Micro LE?

[pkircher]

hasu has done that on his hhkb controller using the bluefruit with tmk .. so that be exactly the point to analyze the code .. as i stated above .. it should not be hard at all

[yoobe]

Idea to have all mapped in a ergodox box :


what do you think?


(Attachment Link)

I need to check the size of the board and the battery (here is the 2500 mAh http://www.adafruit.com/product/328)

bluefruit size: 51.0mm x 23.0mm x 4.5mm / 2.0" x 0.9" x 0.2"
battery Size: 2" x 2.55" x 0.30" (51mm x 65mm x 8mm)

Did you get anywhere with replacing the teensy with the Bluefruit Micro LE?

After searching a solution to have a fully programmable bluetooth keyboard, I started a new project (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=74802.0) based on a different board (nrf51822).
I am currently writing the firmware with mbed.org. The Bluefruit Micro LE consume more power than the Arm based MCU I think.

Once done, I could make a version for ErgoDox. I don't want to break my ErgoDox now because it takes time to have it working and I am using it.

[profet]

I see you're no longer using the Bluefruit...

But couldn't the Bluefruit utilize the TMK firmware with only slight modifications?

I think that would be the quickest win.

[yoobe]

I see you're no longer using the Bluefruit...

But couldn't the Bluefruit utilize the TMK firmware with only slight modifications?

I think that would be the quickest win.

It should be possible I believe, you will need to write the bluetooth part if it is not done already by someone.

I extended my initial idea with an oled screen, usb hub, macro, long press for alternative key like on smartphones (Accents, FN layer etc)
I checked the source code of the TMK and other firmware.. I decided to go with C++ and mbed format.. maybe I am loosing time with rewriting a firmware but I want to control all parts of the final product.. I have fun to develop it
I try to make it modular.. The firmware would be compatible with Teensy 3.2, nrf51822, Oled display and configurable matrix (re-use on other layout)

[pkircher]

yay lets reinvent the wheel .. what a great idea


TMK does support the blue fruit with the HHKB controller from hasu if you would have done your homework/research you would know that

there is no point to write a entire new firmware IF there is already a great one(which is widly used and successful) and can be made even better ..

but that would be the logical aproach.

[yoobe]

yay lets reinvent the wheel .. what a great idea


TMK does support the blue fruit with the HHKB controller from hasu if you would have done your homework/research you would know that

there is no point to write a entire new firmware IF there is already a great one(which is widly used and successful) and can be made even better ..

but that would be the logical aproach.

Being an engineer, I don't limit myself to copy/paste.. if nobody is interested, I keep it for me..

[cwils0n]

Almost done with my Ergodox, just waiting on Carbon SA:



A few more pictures here.

[BigDov]

Almost done with my Ergodox, just waiting on Carbon SA:

Show Image

A few more pictures here.

That is fantastic..... I like it!

[wackottl]

Almost done with my Ergodox, just waiting on Carbon SA:

A few more pictures here.

Yea, I like the orange!

[Koren]

Just received my EZ, and (beside the huge customs and the fact that keys need some lube) I'm happy with it.

That being said, I need to at least flash the layout (before even trying to mess with the firmware). I wanted to upload a hex, but I don't see a Teensy key in the official layout... Is the tiny hole on the right part an access to the Teesny button? Or do I have to (already) disassemble the unit to upload the hex?

Anything I should know before uploading the hex?

there is no point to write a entire new firmware IF there is already a great one(which is widly used and successful) and can be made even better ..

I disagree... You're always need options. TMK is great, and I'm not sure I'll be able to create something as good, but at the same time, I see things really differently, even to get the same results most of the time. So I'll definitively try my ideas, and if that I can't interest others, that's not a problem.

And you won't create the light bulb by trying to improve candles.

[profet]

Is the ErgoDox EZ a standard ergodox? Does it use a standard teensy? Or is there custom hardware used for cheaper mass production?

[trauring]

Is the ErgoDox EZ a standard ergodox? Does it use a standard teensy? Or is there custom hardware used for cheaper mass production?

It's supposed to be completely standard with a Teensy. Only the case is custom designed for mass production.

[cwils0n]

Almost done with my Ergodox, just waiting on Carbon SA:

Show Image

A few more pictures here.

That is fantastic..... I like it!

Almost done with my Ergodox, just waiting on Carbon SA:

A few more pictures here.

Yea, I like the orange!

Thanks!  Here's some shots with Carbon SA:

[Koren]

Really nice, I especially like the font and colors. I wish I could get a set of custom caps at a not-stellar cost...

Is the ErgoDox EZ a standard ergodox? Does it use a standard teensy? Or is there custom hardware used for cheaper mass production?

As far as I know, it's standard Ergodox, pre-assembled, with an injection ABS case, PBT keycaps and a two-year warranty. It does use a Teensy 2 and come with a TMK fork preloaded.

[Koren]

Any idea where I could buy keypad enter 1x2 PBT MX keycaps? Preferably with a strong slope.

The thumb keys on my dox use 2x1 keys turned 90 degrees, and I'm already finding those painful because the lateral edge became a bottom edge that hurt my thumb...

[bcredbottle]

Any idea where I could buy keypad enter 1x2 PBT MX keycaps? Preferably with a strong slope.

The thumb keys on my dox use 2x1 keys turned 90 degrees, and I'm already finding those painful because the lateral edge became a bottom edge that hurt my thumb...

Might wanna try G20 singles from PMK. The G20 have a strong slope and rounded edges.

[wackottl]

There was no video of the Infinity Ergodox with back lit keys so I made a quick one.

Thought you guys might like to see.

[Koren]

Might wanna try G20 singles from PMK. The G20 have a strong slope and rounded edges.

That's currently the best solution I've found, indeed... I'll go that way if I can't find cylindrical PBT. Thanks for the suggestion!

[profet]

My latest build. Playing with laser cutting wood. Top layer is cherry MDF with other layers being black acrylic.

Probably end up selling it as I have too many ergodoxes as it is. It sure is fun building these. 





More images here: http://imgur.com/a/41oqb

[cwils0n]

Ordered these feet from ebay:

[cNile]

Hey guys, just quickly posting a question whilst I'm at work, in hopes to read replies when I get home.

Sorry if I go over somethings that have already been touched on or answered within this topic, but my browsing time is at present limited, so I'll get right to the point.

I'm looking at this split keyboard in wonderment, the left hand side of it would be perfect for me as a gaming pad, freeing up massive amounts of desk real estate!

Could I build one half of this? Would the software still work? It's to my understanding that this split keyboard is tethered each half to each other, if I was to build just the left side, could that connector port support just going straight to the PC?

Also roughly, how much would building one half cost?
Thank you in advance for any answers I may receive, and apologies if I have offended anyone or broken any rules.

(Very intimidating website).

[romevi]

Ordered these feet from ebay:

Show Image

That board is a real beaut! Where'd you get the colored case layers?

[cwils0n]

That board is a real beaut! Where'd you get the colored case layers?

Thanks!  I got it from u/Narcoleptic_Bat on Reddit. 

[profet]

New creations I made for customers:

Purple Dox:


Album: http://imgur.com/a/wucaU

Storm Trooper Dox:


Album: http://imgur.com/a/unKrA

[romevi]

New creations I made for customers:

Purple Dox:

Show Image

Album: http://imgur.com/a/wucaU

Maybe I'm colorblind, but that Purple Dox looks silver.  :confused:

[profet]

New creations I made for customers:

Purple Dox:

Show Image

Album: http://imgur.com/a/wucaU

Maybe I'm colorblind, but that Purple Dox looks silver.  :confused:

Really? you see that as silver?

[romevi]

New creations I made for customers:

Purple Dox:

Show Image

Album: http://imgur.com/a/wucaU

Maybe I'm colorblind, but that Purple Dox looks silver.  :confused:

Really? you see that as silver?

Yeah. Unless it's the lighting and the purple isn't captured too well in the photographs.

[jeb]

Hey guys, just quickly posting a question whilst I'm at work, in hopes to read replies when I get home.

Sorry if I go over somethings that have already been touched on or answered within this topic, but my browsing time is at present limited, so I'll get right to the point.

I'm looking at this split keyboard in wonderment, the left hand side of it would be perfect for me as a gaming pad, freeing up massive amounts of desk real estate!

Could I build one half of this? Would the software still work? It's to my understanding that this split keyboard is tethered each half to each other, if I was to build just the left side, could that connector port support just going straight to the PC?

Also roughly, how much would building one half cost?
Thank you in advance for any answers I may receive, and apologies if I have offended anyone or broken any rules.

(Very intimidating website).

Unfortunately for your purposes, the controller which connects to the computer is on the right hand side. It's possible to install the controller on either hand's board, but the difficulty is that if you were to do this to have a left hand board with a controller, it wouldn't fit the cases that are easily available. Some ways around this would be a custom case, building some small box containing the controller that the left hand can plug into, or the simplest option, using a full Ergodox and putting the right hand somewhere out of the way.

There may be better solutions that have come up; this isn't something I've tried.

[cNile]

Unfortunately for your purposes, the controller which connects to the computer is on the right hand side. It's possible to install the controller on either hand's board, but the difficulty is that if you were to do this to have a left hand board with a controller, it wouldn't fit the cases that are easily available. Some ways around this would be a custom case, building some small box containing the controller that the left hand can plug into, or the simplest option, using a full Ergodox and putting the right hand somewhere out of the way.

There may be better solutions that have come up; this isn't something I've tried.

That does sound unfortunate, having the full set up is not an option, as I have my daily driver keyboard mounted on a shelve directly below my wall mounted monitor, don't worry, its more comfortable that it sounds.


This leaves my desk wide open, and nice gaming pad would fit on there! My setup would be complete, but I cannot find a gaming pad that I like or that had the layout or the right amount of keys that I need.

The left hand of the ErgoDox is "perfect"..

Could someone on here make this happen? If so how much? How much for the full build generally speaking?

[plainbriny]

The left hand of the ErgoDox is "perfect"..
Could someone on here make this happen? If so how much? How much for the full build generally speaking?

Just join the infinite ergodox drop.
The infinite ergodox has two independent halves, you can connect either or both to the computer. The two halves can communicate over a USB 3.0 cable, which is really neat.