The built in standoffs will use 3/8" 4-40 screws. There is a 5mm thick space below the plane where the PCB will sit so soldering doesn't touch the metal. There is a 13mm space for the PCB (final will probably be 1.6mm thick), plate, and switches. The interior has 0.5 mm clearance on each side so there is wiggle room for caps. The outer edges have a chamfer, the while everything else uses fillet. The case is 180 degree, aka flat. There are 4-40 screw holes on the bottom so you can mount feet of your choosing on them. I plan on making 11 degree angled risers to accompany this case which may be attached with 1/2" 4-40 screws. There is one slot for the micro USB output, and 3 slots for USB input.
Paging jbondeson
Hype phase is over. Wall of text added to the OP with the nitty gritty for what I have planned.You mention that caps from (for example) an AT101 will work, but the schematic for the numpad is a grid layout. Does the schematic just not reflect support for 2u keys, or am I missing something?
Hype phase is over. Wall of text added to the OP with the nitty gritty for what I have planned.You mention that caps from (for example) an AT101 will work, but the schematic for the numpad is a grid layout. Does the schematic just not reflect support for 2u keys, or am I missing something?
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/tw5dQLZ.jpg)
Hasu's PCB doesn't support this, but I really want this ISO layout possible.
So Blue, I'm not sure what your plans are for case and PCB, but something that fits in the replacement Filco/KBP cases would be awesome. And you could even make it compatible with the Pegasus Hoof and Kitten Paw.
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/tw5dQLZ.jpg)
Hasu's PCB doesn't support this, but I really want this ISO layout possible.
Good to hear you'll consider it :)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/tw5dQLZ.jpg)
Hasu's PCB doesn't support this, but I really want this ISO layout possible.
Correct, the ISO AEKII isn't supported by hasu's current version. I'll see if it is feasible for my design.
Alpine Winter has already passed, but that set was designed for the 60%. I think that with this project going forward, it would be the perfect time for someone to do a GB for some Alps caps, but I won't be running it. I don't have any experience with that process, and it would be best left to someone else.
Opinion Request: What layouts do you want with a tenkey?
Just the basics?Show Image(http://imgur.com/zaOoqmz.png)
The basics with a little extra?Show Image(http://imgur.com/zaOoqmz.png)
Ortho?Show Image(http://imgur.com/3Wfta3x.png)
Gamepad?Show Image(http://imgur.com/iYFZbcM.png)
These are just mockups made with Swill's, not the final designs.
Opinion Request: What layouts do you want with a tenkey?
Just the basics?Show Image(http://imgur.com/zaOoqmz.png)
The basics with a little extra?Show Image(http://imgur.com/zaOoqmz.png)
Ortho?Show Image(http://imgur.com/3Wfta3x.png)
Gamepad?Show Image(http://imgur.com/iYFZbcM.png)
These are just mockups made with Swill's, not the final designs.
What's the difference basics and basics with the extra? The game pad is also really neat, but probably won't be as heavily ordered as the basics/basics+extra.
Yeah, I am wondering the same thing. I think you meant the basic+extra TK to have an additional row?
Interested for sure.
Will this support sideways mounting of the FN switches so that they are compatible with the AEKII keycaps?
:(
Wait, that is Rosa? I thought Rosa was the TKL and Dom the TK. ;D
In any case, great progress so far, but please eat, and sleep! :p
Can we talk about the names for a moment? It only makes me think of Uncle Scrooge Comics
I have a suggestion/question - not sure if it's even doable.
This can also extend to Hasu's 60%: Is it possible to make the PCB/Plate not just Alps compatible but also SMK/Monterey switch compatible?
Hmm, I don't know. Do you have the spec sheet for those? I don't know have one to go off of.
showing interestinterest checked
Hmm, I don't know. Do you have the spec sheet for those? I don't know have one to go off of.
I can't seem to find one .. here is a pic: http://mousefan.telcontar.net/image/monterey.htm
That's probably not as detailed as you need; still looking.
Hmm, I don't know. Do you have the spec sheet for those? I don't know have one to go off of.
I can't seem to find one .. here is a pic: http://mousefan.telcontar.net/image/monterey.htm
That's probably not as detailed as you need; still looking.
Yeah, the DT wiki doesn't have anything too useful. I'd need to know the pin locations and the size of square.
MoreMore switch info here: https://deskthority.net/keyboards-f2/how-can-you-repurpose-monterey-blues-t12796.htmlHmm, I don't know. Do you have the spec sheet for those? I don't know have one to go off of.
I can't seem to find one .. here is a pic: http://mousefan.telcontar.net/image/monterey.htm
That's probably not as detailed as you need; still looking.
Yeah, the DT wiki doesn't have anything too useful. I'd need to know the pin locations and the size of square.
They are MX size (14x14mm) but I still can't find info on the pins :( Still looking...
I have one computer at home with crossfired R9 390's and one at work that appears to be powered by an aging hamster. Guess which one I decided to do ray tracing renders on?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/s1jD2ZO.png)
Heres another idea for your pcb. Please include the traces and pads for the keys between the nav cluster and the arrow keys, that is one thing I love to have on tkl layouts, that way you can use a function layer and have a pseudo numpad, if you want that sort of thing. you could offer another plate design like this as well as traditional tkl, I know I would buy one, im sure others would as well.
I made a prospective case for the Dom<-(I got it right this time) tenkey pad.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/xYiarTS.png)
The built in standoffs will use 3/8" 4-40 screws. There is a 5mm thick space below the plane where the PCB will sit so soldering doesn't touch the metal. There is a 13mm space for the PCB (final will probably be 1.6mm thick), plate, and switches. The interior has 0.5 mm clearance on each side so there is wiggle room for caps. The outer edges have a chamfer, the while everything else uses fillet. The case is 180 degree, aka flat. There are 4-40 screw holes on the bottom so you can mount feet of your choosing on them. I plan on making 11 degree angled risers to accompany this case which may be attached with 1/2" 4-40 screws. There is one slot for the micro USB output, and 3 slots for USB input.
I have no idea what it will cost to produce this yet, I just wanted to have something ready to get quotes with.
Also, done today. To accommodate requests for Monterey Alps support, I have made a pad which supports both SKCM Alps as well as the SMK pins.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/DZ328Cf.png)
This option means that you can use SMK switches with the PCB, but NOT the default plate. However, I expect I will offer plates with the correct 14mm^2 cutouts with this deal as well (don't tell the Cherry fanboys). Input is requested for what layouts you will be using. Due to the design of the tenkey with the USB hub, I probably won't be offering the SMK compatible Dom. The hub chips and glue electronics take up a lot of board real estate. I haven't designed Rosa yet, but I expect that there will be plenty of room to handle this update.
This option means that you can use SMK switches with the PCB, but NOT the default plate. However, I expect I will offer plates with the correct 14mm^2 cutouts with this deal as well (don't tell the Cherry fanboys). Input is requested for what layouts you will be using. Due to the design of the tenkey with the USB hub, I probably won't be offering the SMK compatible Dom.
Opinion Request: What layouts do you want with a tenkey?
Just the basics?Show Image(http://imgur.com/zaOoqmz.png)
The basics with a little extra?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/h9YRYYt.png)
Ortho?Show Image(http://imgur.com/3Wfta3x.png)
Gamepad?Show Image(http://imgur.com/iYFZbcM.png)
These are just mockups made with Swill's, not the final designs.
Opinion Request: What layouts do you want with a tenkey?
Just the basics?Show Image(http://imgur.com/zaOoqmz.png)
The basics with a little extra?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/h9YRYYt.png)
Ortho?Show Image(http://imgur.com/3Wfta3x.png)
Gamepad?Show Image(http://imgur.com/iYFZbcM.png)
These are just mockups made with Swill's, not the final designs.
i really like the game pad.
been wanting to build one for awhile. its on my project list :D
Opinion Request: What layouts do you want with a tenkey?
Just the basics?Show Image(http://imgur.com/zaOoqmz.png)
The basics with a little extra?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/h9YRYYt.png)
Ortho?Show Image(http://imgur.com/3Wfta3x.png)
Gamepad?Show Image(http://imgur.com/iYFZbcM.png)
These are just mockups made with Swill's, not the final designs.
i really like the game pad.
been wanting to build one for awhile. its on my project list :D
I liked it too. Unfortunately, with the USB hub electronics, it won't be possible using that plate design. I would be happy to design one for you which is compatible with my layouts though. What games do you play/keys do you use? (e.g. for MOBAs I would need to have the 4 skills on top with WASD but for space sims I would make a 9pad control area)
I'm gonna need a picture to see what you mean.Heres a pic. This is on my current custom tkl plate that im going to hand wire.
Let me ask, who here is going to be using the numpad with the left hand? Anyone?
Because if so, you might want a few changes to the numpad. Particularly the "+", "enter" and "0" key orientation.
I would love to have hot-swappable switches on the Dom. I don't even know if this is possible with Alps. But I think such a feature would make for a cool switch tester and/or macro pad.
I would love to have hot-swappable switches on the Dom. I don't even know if this is possible with Alps. But I think such a feature would make for a cool switch tester and/or macro pad.
That probably won't be possible, at least with this design. That would require another level of board infrastructure and a plate redesign.
Any plans for option to put in a display and make this work as a calculator on its own? :D
Will this support sideways mounting of the FN switches so that they are compatible with the AEKII keycaps?
Thanks for reminding me. I forget about those silly AEK quirks.
Because of my regular work, second consulting gig, and devotion to sleeping late, I didn't get as much done as I had hoped. Here is an incremental update:
1) The TKL is coming together. I've got the basics organized on the PCB-layout-kicad-magic-box into something which resembles a keyboard. This took more time than I thought, because making wiring from scratch when every single pin on the ATMega is being used without a stupid number of vias is a pain.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/HqpL3Ze.png)
I have the coordinates for all of the holes from Moz's open source TKL layout, and I have begun translating those to the coordinates being used on this board (thanks kicad for putting [0,0] in a corner of the page rather than the corner of the usable area). As such, I can say with some confidence that I expect this board to be compatible with most extant aftermarket TKL cases.
2) I have filled out the paperwork to have an LLC created. I now have my own company. Why is this important? There have been instances where GB leaders have disappeared with people's money. They have even done it after they have had successful previous buys to build confidence. The LLC will give a measure of accountability to this by making sure that my info for the hole you throw your money into is available to the feds. That way, if I ever disappear without word while holding your money, you can associate it with the headline "Man Found Impaled by Soldering Iron after Falling Down Stairs: Cat survived by consuming victim's face, water bottle unharmed."
3) Oh god, the sleeping pills are kicking in.
Looks like Ducky got to the Calculator/Numpad idea
https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/4jkbfn/news_ducky_pocket_mechanical_numpad_calculator/
You really should update your KiCAD version..
Good to hear you'll consider it :)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/tw5dQLZ.jpg)
Hasu's PCB doesn't support this, but I really want this ISO layout possible.
Correct, the ISO AEKII isn't supported by hasu's current version. I'll see if it is feasible for my design.
That would be a life saver to many of us especially in EU, where the US version is really hard to get hold of. However ISO is in abundance here.
oh god that does look like insanity. how do the plate holes work for that? just a big slot? or is it one of those. one plate for this one plate for that sort of thing?
Every alps switch layout needs its own plate
oh god that does look like insanity. how do the plate holes work for that? just a big slot? or is it one of those. one plate for this one plate for that sort of thing?
Great work BN, I'm really excited that you've found a solution for us weirdos in the EU.
Finally I can get some real use out of the gorgeous kepcaps on my ISO AEKIIs...!
Some questions:
(Attachment Link)
Are both of those sets of pins for the AEKII ISO (Shift key area)? It looks like it when I compare it to the plates comparison figure.
Also, those overlapping plated through holes are essentially bigger holes ?
Thank you so much for taking a step further based on our requests, and I apologize for the pain you've been through. :(
2) I have filled out the paperwork to have an LLC created. I now have my own company. Why is this important? There have been instances where GB leaders have disappeared with people's money. They have even done it after they have had successful previous buys to build confidence. The LLC will give a measure of accountability to this by making sure that my info for the hole you throw your money into is available to the feds. That way, if I ever disappear without word while holding your money, you can associate it with the headline "Man Found Impaled by Soldering Iron after Falling Down Stairs: Cat survived by consuming victim's face, water bottle unharmed."
3) Oh god, the sleeping pills are kicking in.
Updates:
Needless to say, these projects will now not be using that connector. If you want an example of the receptacle I used, you can look up the USB Micro B on Sparkfun. I used the same model. Steer clear of it. With a little research on what is available, I think I'm going to revert my design to the semi-depreciated USB Mini B. The parts I have looked at have much sturdier through-hole pins. Hopefully this issue won't happen again.
I understand the reasoning for hardwired but people usually prefer detachable for a reason - it is much easier to carry around and transport. I hate hardwired boards because I have to worry about damaging the cable while transporting it.
I understand the reasoning for hardwired but people usually prefer detachable for a reason - it is much easier to carry around and transport. I hate hardwired boards because I have to worry about damaging the cable while transporting it.
In the five or so years I've been on GeekHack I've heard of maybe 1 or 2 people damaging their hardwired cable; meanwhile there is usually several people per week either here, DT, Rededit, MD, etc that have damaged detachable hubs.
Swapping in a new cable is infinitely less pain in the ass than soldering on a new hub.
I actually tried doing a hardwired mod on my Model M.
I actually tried doing a hardwired mod on my Model M.
While I've heard of detachable cable issues on the Model M before these are extremely rare.
If the detachable USB application were just as robust I would complain a lot less.
Updates:
... I want to add a split spacebar option and ...
Well kids, let's try this on for size:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ivNVGyM.png)
Current compatibility list:
AEKII ISO
AEKII ANSI
Dell ISO
Dell ANSI
Infinity
HHKB
JIS
ABNT 2
probably some others which have not been requested
Split spacebar with 2u, 2.25u, 2.75u mix and match options.
Numpad/arrowpad replacement
To do:
Stepped caps lock
BAE layout
ZKB layout?
Current features:
SMT/through hole diode options
ATmega32u4 power
Teensy 2.0 support (to replace ATmega32u4 for a barebones PCB option)
SMK Alps
To Do features:
screw holes for all extant cases
LED support
bluetooth support?
on board diode reminder schematic
So now take a look at that thing, and see if your layout of choice matches up. These things are still untested. So please let me know if you see errors.
Will it work for AT101 (bottom row 1.5, 1u, 1.5, 7u spacebar, 1.5, 1u, 1.5)?
Might be getting ahead of things here, but what case options other than possibly the Phantom are currently available?
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We can't thank you enough for your hard work :thumb: :thumb: :thumb:
Hope bluetooth will be worked out eventually, that just heightens the greatness of this project.
One question, is split space bar being incorporated? (Sorry I'm too dumb to read schematic)
Is something like this possible?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/LowSK4p.jpg?1)
Is this project good if I just want a very basic no frills TKL ALPS board? With little programming and tinkering? I'm talking just soldering in the switches and calling it a day.This has a lot of frills, but I think they're all optional :P
All I need is a TKL orange alps board and I won't buy a keyboard ever again :P
Checklist Time
This is the current list of possible layouts. Is what you want on that list? Make sure it is. If not, let me know before I move forward. I want to check that everything is perfect on the PCB so I can order a prototype to test. If possible, I want to avoid changes after the prototype is confirmed.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/nl62HtD.png)
Where would the Silicon Graphics SGI Granite keyboard fall under?
Where would the Silicon Graphics SGI Granite keyboard fall under?
Same thing I'm wanting but with 1u keys inbetween the 1.5 ALTs and CTRLs.
Some of those layouts I've never even heard of...? ANSI BAE?BAE = Big Ass Enter
Are you really going to do plates for all of those?
my bae loves that big ass enter :pSome of those layouts I've never even heard of...? ANSI BAE?BAE = Big Ass Enter
Are you really going to do plates for all of those?
I know it's a little niche but for people like me who can patch together caps from an AEK and M0116 an AEKII layout with the HHKB upper-right (1u `~, 1u |\, 1.5u Bksp) would be super. Combine it with a short-right shift and it would be my dream layout :)
Edit: I understand on a TKL we can have the `~ on the number stripe, but I rather like ESC there and then I can map something fun up at the ESC position on the F-stripe.
Where would the Silicon Graphics SGI Granite keyboard fall under?
Same thing I'm wanting but with 1u keys inbetween the 1.5 ALTs and CTRLs.
That's exactly what I want too.
Are you really going to do plates for all of those?
When Alps wranglers like me start simplifying this, the layouts and such will eventually become more codified like the Cherry ones.
If I understand you correctly, you want the Infinity-esque layout with a different bottom row to accommodate AEK caps? A pic would help.
… F row spacing between Phantom/Costar and Gon/LZ so I can't tell from just looking at the layout …
Filco/Costar/Phantom/QFR/TEX TKL/KUL/WASD/Nixeus/Ducky:
- 0.5u space between Fn row and number row
- indicator LEDs under keys or between Print/Scroll/Pause and nav cluster
- USB socket underneath keyboard, between F8 and F9, or in middle (kind of under F7)
- case usually has internal shelf since the stock plates have small downward lips
“Korean Customs”/Duck/LZ/TGR/GON?:
- 0.25u space between Fn row and number row
- indicator LEDs under keys or between nav cluster and arrow keys
- USB between F12 and Print or in the middle (kind of under F7)
- plates have 5 extensions each on top and bottom with screw holes that fit into recesses in the case (gets sandwiched between top and bottom of case)
Posting thingsShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/b0nm51F.png)
This is the latest board. The prototype is being made currently.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/0YHEq4j.png)
Here is the updated case, rendered in bead blasted Al.
I have a version on Shapeways, and the cheap white SLS costs >$70 to 3D print with no errors. Not bad.
Posting thingsShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/b0nm51F.png)
This is the latest board. The prototype is being made currently.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/0YHEq4j.png)
Here is the updated case, rendered in bead blasted Al.
I have a version on Shapeways, and the cheap white SLS costs >$70 to 3D print with no errors. Not bad.
I'm in love with that case.
What do you mean by fillet GND planes?
Can you show the PCB with and without this option? I have rounded edges on my PCBs with planes and never used the fillet option.What do you mean by fillet GND planes?
I put Cu back planes in all of my boards connected to the common GND. In KiCAD, you put this in with a "Filled Zone" you designate with a polygon. It would be a pain in the ass to make your polygon have rounded corners if you want to have rounded corners of the PCB (like I have in the latest Rosa). I looked around the Filled Zone options and noticed that there was a fillet option. So I set it to match the fillet radius of the PCB.
Can you show the PCB with and without this option? I have rounded edges on my PCBs with planes and never used the fillet option.What do you mean by fillet GND planes?
I put Cu back planes in all of my boards connected to the common GND. In KiCAD, you put this in with a "Filled Zone" you designate with a polygon. It would be a pain in the ass to make your polygon have rounded corners if you want to have rounded corners of the PCB (like I have in the latest Rosa). I looked around the Filled Zone options and noticed that there was a fillet option. So I set it to match the fillet radius of the PCB.
I'm still confused.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/OyqYnSq.png)
I have no filleting.
Wow, those risers are killer.No kidding, I think they look fantastic.
Yep, GND plane on both front and back. No issues that I know of.I'm still confused.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/OyqYnSq.png)
I have no filleting.
No, that looks how it supposed to. There would only be a noticeable difference if you didn't have the rounded edge.cut. The zone 'edge' still sticks out beyond the rounded edge.cut, but that is normal. The copper is only filled inside the board.
Side-note: Do you have a plane on the front and the back? Do you have capacitance issues with that?
Rosa CaseShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/fFxfmi0.png)
Custom 11° risersShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/aixg5yz.png)
OSHpark doesn't do slotting :(
i need to find a drill hole footprint for alps/cherry too i think
Right.OSHpark doesn't do slotting :(
i need to find a drill hole footprint for alps/cherry too i think
They do, but you need to have the slot represented as a series of overlapping holes.
Rosa CaseShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/fFxfmi0.png)
Custom 11° risersShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/aixg5yz.png)
At this point the DOM is the more interesting part of this IC anyway, so keep up the work!
I still think the cases need to be able to "fit together" on both sides using magnets, though. I want the "click" sound when I get the DOM out of the drawer cause it's bill paying time.
Updates:
I finished soldering everything required onto the Dom prototype. Yay! I tested it by plugging in the USB micro cable from my computer, and the connector was a little stiff. I held my finger on the receptacle and gave it some firm pressure, and the thing ripped the pads and some of the GND plane off of the prototype board. So that is trash now. I chucked the receptacle with bits of PCB still dangling from it in a moment of frustration, and I think it went somewhere behind my computer. I can't find it now. I will send my cat hunting for it.
Needless to say, these projects will now not be using that connector. If you want an example of the receptacle I used, you can look up the USB Micro B on Sparkfun. I used the same model. Steer clear of it. With a little research on what is available, I think I'm going to revert my design to the semi-depreciated USB Mini B. The parts I have looked at have much sturdier through-hole pins. Hopefully this issue won't happen again.
The Rosa layout is complete. There is currently support for Dell and AEKII ANSI and ISO models, and I have added support for a hacker-esque bottom row, and an infinity split right shift.
And now that it is complete, I think I'm going to scrap the whole thing. I'm not happy with it. There are some more features I want to add, but it just isn't happening with the current mega32u2. As such, I'm going to start over again, forking this project into one which utilizes the mega32u4. This will have multiple advantages for my design. I want to add a split spacebar option and full numpad support (similar to the Phantom PCB). I'm thinking Teensy support would be nice too.
So anyways, I'm going to go redo the matrix. I'll be back later hopefully with something even more awesome.
Oh no! Say it ain't so, I really dislike Mini-B connectors. How difficult would it be to desolder a Mini-B connector and substitute a Micro-B? Is it possible to make connector choice optional or would it create too much headache?
What does through-hole mean in that context? That you can solder cables to points inside the metal connector?
The pins go through the PCB and aren't just soldered to the top.
Will you be able to offer ordering individual plates? Say I buy one PCB, could I get three different plates with it?
What does through-hole mean in that context? That you can solder cables to points inside the metal connector?
Blaise is correct. The leads and housing connections go through the PCB and are soldered on the back instead of pads connected on the front only. This is beneficial, because if there is too much strain on the pad soldered version, it can rip the copper off of the board quite easily. The through hole parts don't have that issue.The pins go through the PCB and aren't just soldered to the top.
Will you be able to offer ordering individual plates? Say I buy one PCB, could I get three different plates with it?
You can order as many different plates as you want. The kits will be sold in the same fashion as the previous GB. You pick what you want, and I box it up for you. Just want to try some Matias switches? You can order just that if you like. Want to buy 80 complete kits with all of the plate options for each? Go for it.
MoreI think you are referring to these connectors with the pins that secure it to the PCB right? http://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/Wurth-Electronics/629105150521/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMulM8LPOQ%252byk2Wnkghg7F8rzYbeZ9K0ijhE7azhp8rv2w%3d%3d (http://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/Wurth-Electronics/629105150521/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMulM8LPOQ%252byk2Wnkghg7F8rzYbeZ9K0ijhE7azhp8rv2w%3d%3d)What does through-hole mean in that context? That you can solder cables to points inside the metal connector?
Blaise is correct. The leads and housing connections go through the PCB and are soldered on the back instead of pads connected on the front only. This is beneficial, because if there is too much strain on the pad soldered version, it can rip the copper off of the board quite easily. The through hole parts don't have that issue.The pins go through the PCB and aren't just soldered to the top.
Will you be able to offer ordering individual plates? Say I buy one PCB, could I get three different plates with it?
You can order as many different plates as you want. The kits will be sold in the same fashion as the previous GB. You pick what you want, and I box it up for you. Just want to try some Matias switches? You can order just that if you like. Want to buy 80 complete kits with all of the plate options for each? Go for it.
Say if I were to source some of these connectors, how difficult is it to replace a Mini-B connector by myself? (I've only done relatively simple soldering jobs with through-hole resistors and diodes, never attempted to do small SMD components). Would you say it's possible with a little bit of practice and steady hands or is it better not to try at all and live with the Mini B connector?
MoreI think you are referring to these connectors with the pins that secure it to the PCB right? http://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/Wurth-Electronics/629105150521/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMulM8LPOQ%252byk2Wnkghg7F8rzYbeZ9K0ijhE7azhp8rv2w%3d%3d (http://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/Wurth-Electronics/629105150521/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMulM8LPOQ%252byk2Wnkghg7F8rzYbeZ9K0ijhE7azhp8rv2w%3d%3d)What does through-hole mean in that context? That you can solder cables to points inside the metal connector?
Blaise is correct. The leads and housing connections go through the PCB and are soldered on the back instead of pads connected on the front only. This is beneficial, because if there is too much strain on the pad soldered version, it can rip the copper off of the board quite easily. The through hole parts don't have that issue.The pins go through the PCB and aren't just soldered to the top.
Will you be able to offer ordering individual plates? Say I buy one PCB, could I get three different plates with it?
You can order as many different plates as you want. The kits will be sold in the same fashion as the previous GB. You pick what you want, and I box it up for you. Just want to try some Matias switches? You can order just that if you like. Want to buy 80 complete kits with all of the plate options for each? Go for it.
Say if I were to source some of these connectors, how difficult is it to replace a Mini-B connector by myself? (I've only done relatively simple soldering jobs with through-hole resistors and diodes, never attempted to do small SMD components). Would you say it's possible with a little bit of practice and steady hands or is it better not to try at all and live with the Mini B connector?
Looking at those components, it seems possible to replace it with that part. The through hole pins on the micro do not match the support through hole pins on the mini. This means you will need to chop two of them off so the other two fit. I would recommend soldering small wires to the SMD pins on the micro part, then putting those through the correct holes on the PCB. Since this will have very few contact points with the board, I recommend use of glue to hold the receptacle in place.
MoreI think you are referring to these connectors with the pins that secure it to the PCB right? http://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/Wurth-Electronics/629105150521/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMulM8LPOQ%252byk2Wnkghg7F8rzYbeZ9K0ijhE7azhp8rv2w%3d%3d (http://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/Wurth-Electronics/629105150521/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMulM8LPOQ%252byk2Wnkghg7F8rzYbeZ9K0ijhE7azhp8rv2w%3d%3d)What does through-hole mean in that context? That you can solder cables to points inside the metal connector?
Blaise is correct. The leads and housing connections go through the PCB and are soldered on the back instead of pads connected on the front only. This is beneficial, because if there is too much strain on the pad soldered version, it can rip the copper off of the board quite easily. The through hole parts don't have that issue.The pins go through the PCB and aren't just soldered to the top.
Will you be able to offer ordering individual plates? Say I buy one PCB, could I get three different plates with it?
You can order as many different plates as you want. The kits will be sold in the same fashion as the previous GB. You pick what you want, and I box it up for you. Just want to try some Matias switches? You can order just that if you like. Want to buy 80 complete kits with all of the plate options for each? Go for it.
Say if I were to source some of these connectors, how difficult is it to replace a Mini-B connector by myself? (I've only done relatively simple soldering jobs with through-hole resistors and diodes, never attempted to do small SMD components). Would you say it's possible with a little bit of practice and steady hands or is it better not to try at all and live with the Mini B connector?
Looking at those components, it seems possible to replace it with that part. The through hole pins on the micro do not match the support through hole pins on the mini. This means you will need to chop two of them off so the other two fit. I would recommend soldering small wires to the SMD pins on the micro part, then putting those through the correct holes on the PCB. Since this will have very few contact points with the board, I recommend use of glue to hold the receptacle in place.
I think I know what you mean now, some two-part epoxy should do it, it's good enough for the monolithic rudder on an A320, gotta be good enough for an USB port, that's how it works, right?
Do you know if there are any micro-B ports that have similar hole patterns to the mini B port you will be using? Or if possible could you share the part number for the mini port you will be using so I can try and find something with similar pin sizing?
Thanks for being patient with me, I am an engineer but my specialisation is not in electronics (very handy with a sledgehammer though!)
Sure. The part I'm using is the Omron XM7D-0512. I have not seen anything which uses compatible pinouts while I was shopping for a good (inexpensive) part.
No worries. I'm a chemist, not an engineer. I'm flying by the seat of my pants here.
Sure. The part I'm using is the Omron XM7D-0512. I have not seen anything which uses compatible pinouts while I was shopping for a good (inexpensive) part.
No worries. I'm a chemist, not an engineer. I'm flying by the seat of my pants here.
Ok I just done perusing some datasheets, it seems like this is the only one I found one that might have a chance of even fitting: http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1912469.pdf
The mechanical retention pins spacings looks to be about the right size (it's 0.15mm off the pin pitch of the Omron part, I'm not sure it that will cause mechanical issues with the slots on the PCB, I'm hoping not). The contact pins looks to be surface mount, and the connector itself is shorter than the Mini B part, so I'm guessing I can use simple wires to bridge each contact pin to its corresponding hole on the PCB, is that a correct assumption?
My only concern is that the pin pitch is tiny (apprently 0.6mm) so I'm not sure how well it's going to work with hand-soldering. Do you know how the two retention arms should be mechanically restrained to the PCB? Do you just stick them through the hole on the PCB and fill it with solder? I'm a bit unclear on that but I assume that's what's supposed to happen.
Sure. The part I'm using is the Omron XM7D-0512. I have not seen anything which uses compatible pinouts while I was shopping for a good (inexpensive) part.
No worries. I'm a chemist, not an engineer. I'm flying by the seat of my pants here.
Ok I just done perusing some datasheets, it seems like this is the only one I found one that might have a chance of even fitting: http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1912469.pdf
The mechanical retention pins spacings looks to be about the right size (it's 0.15mm off the pin pitch of the Omron part, I'm not sure it that will cause mechanical issues with the slots on the PCB, I'm hoping not). The contact pins looks to be surface mount, and the connector itself is shorter than the Mini B part, so I'm guessing I can use simple wires to bridge each contact pin to its corresponding hole on the PCB, is that a correct assumption?
My only concern is that the pin pitch is tiny (apprently 0.6mm) so I'm not sure how well it's going to work with hand-soldering. Do you know how the two retention arms should be mechanically restrained to the PCB? Do you just stick them through the hole on the PCB and fill it with solder? I'm a bit unclear on that but I assume that's what's supposed to happen.
Yep, just stick 'em and solder 'em.
The pins might need some encouragement with the tweezers to fit the holes on the PCB, but it should work. The pins on the Omron part are staggered instead of in a straight line, so this would be necessary to correct for that. Buy more than one in case it takes some trial and error to get right.
SMK compatibility is true. Of course, I still need to find time to work on this. The encouraging words are nice though. It helps maintain what momentum I have.
I very much would like to see a TKL pcb with SMK support. :D Keep it up!
My question to all of you: would you still be interested in the TK without the USB hub feature?I don't particularly care about having a hub.
So I finally found some time today to mess with the TK and oscilloscope. My findings so far: its broked. Everything seems to be noise on the signal lines. I am of the opinion that there may be something fundamentally wrong with my design. I'm not done testing it yet, but I may have to make some changes.
My question to all of you: would you still be interested in the TK without the USB hub feature? I think that might be the real weak link here.
EDIT: My advisor took a glance at the TI chip I'm using. He suggested that since there is 3.3V power and a good oscillator signal, then there must be something wrong with it. I showed him my "dmesg | grep usb" output, and he comment that the fact that there was no hub being listed when I plugged it in could support his theory. So I haven't thrown in the towel yet.
Someone get me a job offer, and I'll get six ;)
Support for Alps and SMK is way more important than a hub.
I think we need to look at this as a "walk slowly" IC :D
GBs take time, and this isn't even a GB yet!
In the number pad portion of the log, you mention support for Monterey Alps. Will the TKL board also have this support?
In the number pad portion of the log, you mention support for Monterey Alps. Will the TKL board also have this support?Asked the same thing a while back. And the answer is yes
SMK compatibility is true. Of course, I still need to find time to work on this. The encouraging words are nice though. It helps maintain what momentum I have.
I like seeing activity here. I'm glad I haven't lost you yet. I'm still alive, just swamped. The last two weeks I worked 78 and 63 hours, respectively. (I only worked 5 hours on labor day, gotta take a break occasionally). Anyway, the fact that this project seems to be on hiatus does NOT mean it is dead. It is on the list.
I like seeing activity here. I'm glad I haven't lost you yet. I'm still alive, just swamped. The last two weeks I worked 78 and 63 hours, respectively. (I only worked 5 hours on labor day, gotta take a break occasionally). Anyway, the fact that this project seems to be on hiatus does NOT mean it is dead. It is on the list.
I like seeing activity here. I'm glad I haven't lost you yet. I'm still alive, just swamped. The last two weeks I worked 78 and 63 hours, respectively. (I only worked 5 hours on labor day, gotta take a break occasionally). Anyway, the fact that this project seems to be on hiatus does NOT mean it is dead. It is on the list.
Glad you are still there!
What switches is everyone else putting on the board? Mainly blues? Or are some people putting lubed salmon's in?
I like seeing activity here. I'm glad I haven't lost you yet. I'm still alive, just swamped. The last two weeks I worked 78 and 63 hours, respectively. (I only worked 5 hours on labor day, gotta take a break occasionally). Anyway, the fact that this project seems to be on hiatus does NOT mean it is dead. It is on the list.
Glad you are still there!
What switches is everyone else putting on the board? Mainly blues? Or are some people putting lubed salmon's in?
This is probably far too early to say, but I'm looking for Orange ALPS or if I'm really lucky, Amber ALPS
I like seeing activity here. I'm glad I haven't lost you yet. I'm still alive, just swamped. The last two weeks I worked 78 and 63 hours, respectively. (I only worked 5 hours on labor day, gotta take a break occasionally). Anyway, the fact that this project seems to be on hiatus does NOT mean it is dead. It is on the list.
Glad you are still there!
What switches is everyone else putting on the board? Mainly blues? Or are some people putting lubed salmon's in?
I only have dampened cream lying around, but if I knew that I had a 75% coming, I'd have to dive into the deeper alps world and find out what I REALLY like ;)
One sad thing from the alps party buy, it turns out I really don't like Matias. The work i had to go through to get my AEK2 caps off those clicky bastard-switches is something I never want to do again!
Will your keyboard be compatible with this keyset? https://thevankeyboards.com/products/lightcycle-keycap-set
Is AEKII ISO a thing that may happen?
Thinking completely out of my ass, but maybe you could do just the left column offset to the left, and perforate the PCB on each side to easily break off the one you don't need :)
I don't have an ISO AEK so it doesn't make a difference to me.
Well, instead of moving all the other switches to right, you could move the first column to the left, couldn't you? Nav keys would then also need to be moved to the left. A lot of switches for sure, but less than the whole alpha section and not staggered (I don't know if that makes a difference). You would then probably need some extra PCB on the left, and if you are fitting it into a tight case you would probably need to remove extra PCB on the right.
But to all ISO guys I would recommend getting left column keys from m0118. I thing those would work. Then it's just a matter of having the right switch position for the enter key.
tried SMK , didn't like them.. not as upset that this hasn't been updated in a while anymore