I sent my AEKII drawing off to get fabbed today. I am considering this to be a test run since I am not 100% confident in it; however, it has passed my preliminary tests and seems to be laid out correctly, we will find out for sure soon! Once I get all of the details sorted out, I will be open-sourcing it for personal use and (hopefully) use in future GBs. I would post it now but I don't want to get responses like "It doesn't woooooork," haha.
Here is a render of what it will (should?) look like:Show Image(https://geekhack.org/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=45456.0;attach=140101;image)
Would be cool if you could do variants which supported Cherry/Costar plate stabilizers, too. That way more people could support them through SP group buys--their DCS keys use the Cherry stab mounts.
I ordered some stuff to build my first ALPS board, an 60% AEKII. Wanted to use costar stabs anyway so the timing of your drawing is perfekt. It will be some weeks until all the parts arrive but I'm going to test out your AEKII Costar plate and report back.
Ah, excellent, thanks! I make no guarantees about it but it should work. If you downloaded the first version of it you should re-download it since I fixed a minor cosmetic issue. I am looking forward to hearing back from you.
I'll try with MDF first to make sure everything fits before cutting acrylic (yes, will be an acrylic plate ;) )
Plates with Alps-style stabilizers are my main priority since Swill's plate builder cannot do those, I can add Cherry/Costar stabilized plates but the builder should be able generate those just fine.
Not completely, it does not support Alps-style stabilizers for the space bar and case mounting holes overlap with other stabilizers. I did use plates generated using it as a starting point though.
I have a HHKB CAD/DXF file that I used to get a plate made over Taobao.Hi loot bag, did the AEK one that you made a while ago worked out perfectly?
Made myself based on Duck's Viper/Eagle ALPS plate file and SwillKB.
Plate should arrive next Monday and I will know how everything fits.
Let me know if you guys would like me to share.
I have a HHKB CAD/DXF file that I used to get a plate made over Taobao.
Made myself based on Duck's Viper/Eagle ALPS plate file and SwillKB.
Plate should arrive next Monday and I will know how everything fits.
Let me know if you guys would like me to share.
Hi loot bag, did the AEK one that you made a while ago worked out perfectly?
Oh sure, we'd really appreciate your contribution! Let us know how it goes! ;D
I posted a pull request with the corner radii and return stabilizer fixed; however, I might need some help with the spacebar stabilizer pin mount (if we want it to be perfect). Unfortunately, I can't measure my plate more precisely until I find my calipers. That being said, this design does work so I feel like my work has finally paid off...
I'm just going to leave these here:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/xnlpALx.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ZHNs2PH.jpg)
Hi loot bag, did the AEK one that you made a while ago worked out perfectly?
Never worked on a AEK plate, only interested in HHKB really.Oh sure, we'd really appreciate your contribution! Let us know how it goes! ;D
Prototype arrived, everything fits great so far.
I need to buy a AT101W for keycaps and the 7U spacebar/stabilizer wire.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/pXYerV8.jpg)
Need some confirmation here.
I forgot to make the cutout for center stem Caps Lock, instead it is shifted and will use the bottom two solder points.
The AT101w caps lock key should work for this position right?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/mCcgA5N.jpg)
I have an (M3501, ANSI) AEK plate, its stabilizers, and some calipers handy, are there specific measurements you need?
I have an (M3501, ANSI) AEK plate, its stabilizers, and some calipers handy, are there specific measurements you need?
We're mostly concerned with the spacebar stabilizer pin holder, if you could help us verify the measurements shown in blue here that would be great.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ALbDqOw.png)
Now, not all of these are easy to take with a caliper (center-to-center measurements being rather difficult) so edge-to-edge measurements would be fine as long as we can derive the same quantities from them. Thanks!!
This is the dimesion from my flimsy caliper job.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Rcpa4Z2.png)
You beat me to it. Just finished; my measurements agree with yours.
This is the dimesion from my flimsy caliper job.Thank you both for these measurements, they are very appreciated! I'll update my AEK plate design when I get a chance.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Rcpa4Z2.png)
I also have worked a AEK plate design in KiCAD these days and thinking of making it with 1.2mm PCB.I didn't realize you had a plate design, hasu; we'll have to update the OP to include yours as well (if you don't mind, that is). Are you thinking of adding support for other layouts too?
https://github.com/tmk/alps64/tree/plate.
Thanks for the help, cy384 and hasu. I can definitely update the OP to include hasu's plate design, but to avoid confusion, we should probably only have the most accurate version of a particular layout in the OP. Has it been tested to work perfectly?
As for the measurements for the clip cutouts adjacent to the circular stab, 2.4mm is an interesting figure. FletchINKy has been very helpful in providing me with some additional measurements for these cutouts too. They seem to differ a bit from what you guys have though.
An average of his measurements gives me approximately 2.2mm. Let me know what you guys think of this.
Just from personal experience though I have found that the space bar peg stab fits more loosely on my AEK plate than it does on my other Alps plates.
Thanks for the help, cy384 and hasu. I can definitely update the OP to include hasu's plate design, but to avoid confusion, we should probably only have the most accurate version of a particular layout in the OP. Has it been tested to work perfectly?
As for the measurements for the clip cutouts adjacent to the circular stab, 2.4mm is an interesting figure. FletchINKy has been very helpful in providing me with some additional measurements for these cutouts too. They seem to differ a bit from what you guys have though.
An average of his measurements gives me approximately 2.2mm. Let me know what you guys think of this.
Just from personal experience though I have found that the space bar peg stab fits more loosely on my AEK plate than it does on my other Alps plates.
Thanks emdude,
I'll go with 15.5mmx12.8mm as the datasheet says. And finished my design.Show Image(https://raw.githubusercontent.com/tmk/alps64/Plate_AEK_RevA/alps64_aek_plate.png)
I'll make a plate and report it here some later.
Got AEK PCB plate and checked it with my Alps64 PCB, original AEK plate and Poker X case. Space bar and stabilized keys work and I didn't find any problem so far.
I didn't solder switches and fully assembled them though, I'd say my AEK plate is ready.
Oh good! I don't think Wingpad will mind if I use your plate design for the OP. Thanks hasu! :DAwesome, that's good to hear. Thanks, hasu!
Anyone know how to calculate the total path length for a dxf (or dwg) file? I have freecad (but not autocad), and can download anything else that's free.
I'm trying to get an AEK plate made by lasergist, but I need to know the path length (and they don't seem to be responding to the contact form).
Yeah, we ultimately used your measurements for the space bar stab clip cutouts. Everything should be good to go, pending prototypes for the AT101W layout, which I may be able to do in a few months.
The .DXFs or the image files should work just fine as templates for cutting up larger plates, good luck!
Yes, the lack of a cutout for the center screw is intentional; an Alps switch cutout is wider than that of a Cherry MX switch. I'm not sure if there would be enough clearance between the two switches to fit in the screw (though I have not tested this).
I can put together a plate that supports both the Alps-style and Costar-style stabilizers for the space bar later, as well.
As for the AT102W plate, I cannot take a look at it right now, but if you are unsure of your measurements, then I recommend generating a plate using Swill's plate builder first then modifying it as needed. The measurements used to generate the plate work just fine (at least for ANSI layouts), the only modification that should be needed are for the space bar stabs and also the ISO Enter which, from a cursory look, appears to have the proper cutout, albeit with mirrored stabs. I can also put together an AT102W plate if you'd like.
For getting a plate cut, I recommend using Lasergist. Their services are much cheaper.
Ah, all right. What I also like to do, if you have not tried this yourself, is to get a 1:1 scale print out to overlay over a bare plate. It's pretty silly and probably a bit imprecise, but it might help catch some errors. It's helped me at least once.
A few other members and I have got plates made at Lasergist. I had the AT101 prototype made using their service. They charge about $40 for a 60%-sized plate, free shipping from Greece included. The quality is pretty good, their laser cutters can handle that 0.02mm thickness you mentioned just fine.
Anyone know how to calculate the total path length for a dxf (or dwg) file? I have freecad (but not autocad), and can download anything else that's free.
I'm trying to get an AEK plate made by lasergist, but I need to know the path length (and they don't seem to be responding to the contact form).
If you don't get an answer before the end of the day, I can grab the path length using Autocad for you when I get home. I haven't really used Freecad so I'm afraid I do not know how to find path length using it.
Yes, the lack of a cutout for the center screw is intentional; an Alps switch cutout is wider than that of a Cherry MX switch. I'm not sure if there would be enough clearance between the two switches to fit in the screw (though I have not tested this).
I can put together a plate that supports both the Alps-style and Costar-style stabilizers for the space bar later, as well.
As for the AT102W plate, I cannot take a look at it right now, but if you are unsure of your measurements, then I recommend generating a plate using Swill's plate builder first then modifying it as needed. The measurements used to generate the plate work just fine (at least for ANSI layouts), the only modification that should be needed are for the space bar stabs and also the ISO Enter which, from a cursory look, appears to have the proper cutout, albeit with mirrored stabs. I can also put together an AT102W plate if you'd like.
For getting a plate cut, I recommend using Lasergist. Their services are much cheaper.
That's basically what I did, I got the printout for Swill's plate builder with an ISO format, then moved the bits around until it roughly matches an AT102W I had around. I think the holes for the spacebar clips are a bit further up than swill's tool generated, since I wasn't sure the geometry was possible to make by laser cutting (the bottom edge of the cutout had a thickness of like 0.02mm... seems a bit low). I also had to manually place the holes where the two columns on the spacebar go into (again, kinda eyeballed it with a bog standard, pretty imprecise ruler)
Never heard of lasergist before, have you had any experiences using them? How much would a 60% plate typically cost using this service?
Yes, the lack of a cutout for the center screw is intentional; an Alps switch cutout is wider than that of a Cherry MX switch. I'm not sure if there would be enough clearance between the two switches to fit in the screw (though I have not tested this).
I can put together a plate that supports both the Alps-style and Costar-style stabilizers for the space bar later, as well.
As for the AT102W plate, I cannot take a look at it right now, but if you are unsure of your measurements, then I recommend generating a plate using Swill's plate builder first then modifying it as needed. The measurements used to generate the plate work just fine (at least for ANSI layouts), the only modification that should be needed are for the space bar stabs and also the ISO Enter which, from a cursory look, appears to have the proper cutout, albeit with mirrored stabs. I can also put together an AT102W plate if you'd like.
For getting a plate cut, I recommend using Lasergist. Their services are much cheaper.
That's basically what I did, I got the printout for Swill's plate builder with an ISO format, then moved the bits around until it roughly matches an AT102W I had around. I think the holes for the spacebar clips are a bit further up than swill's tool generated, since I wasn't sure the geometry was possible to make by laser cutting (the bottom edge of the cutout had a thickness of like 0.02mm... seems a bit low). I also had to manually place the holes where the two columns on the spacebar go into (again, kinda eyeballed it with a bog standard, pretty imprecise ruler)
Never heard of lasergist before, have you had any experiences using them? How much would a 60% plate typically cost using this service?
Okay, I was incorrect, the measurement I got was 0.1171mm, which sounds much more reasonable. This was for both the AT101 and AT101W plates, so I guess this is what should be generated from Swill's tool. I am a little bit confused about your figure now, it does seem rather small.
Am I correct in saying this was what you needed clarification on:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/qV9BKAm.png)
Anyone know how to calculate the total path length for a dxf (or dwg) file? I have freecad (but not autocad), and can download anything else that's free.
I'm trying to get an AEK plate made by lasergist, but I need to know the path length (and they don't seem to be responding to the contact form).
Total Length of selected entities: 4422.0681
It shouldn't.. But I'm not sure, probably best to check with the printout.
In any case, Lasergist should be able to handle that 0.11mm without issue.
Ok. Ordered Hasu's AEK plate on Lasergist. Will post pictures when it arrives.
Looking forward to (finally) finishing my AEK build.
Once I get my keyboard built, happy to get that GB off the ground with the supplier in LA that Emdude found (although with shipping, the price probably won't be that much lower than Lasergist).
Just wanted to confirm that the center screw hole position isn't needed. The wider Alps switches preclude using a screw in that position, so no need for a screw hole there.
Hello MandrewDavis,
Thanks for getting in touch! In fact we do have 1.2mm Stainless Steel available for laser cutting.
The price would be the same as using 1.5mm if you want to check out some pricing on our Product Configurator: http://lasergist.com/shop/lasergist
We can also provide you with custom pricing depending on your request- so, what are you interested in making?
--
Lasergist.com
I contacted Lasergist about any possibility of steel between 1 and 1.5mm thick and here is their response;Quote from: LasergistHello MandrewDavis,
Thanks for getting in touch! In fact we do have 1.2mm Stainless Steel available for laser cutting.
The price would be the same as using 1.5mm if you want to check out some pricing on our Product Configurator: http://lasergist.com/shop/lasergist
We can also provide you with custom pricing depending on your request- so, what are you interested in making?
--
Lasergist.com
Also, is the AEK plate design final?
MoreI contacted Lasergist about any possibility of steel between 1 and 1.5mm thick and here is their response;Quote from: LasergistHello MandrewDavis,
Thanks for getting in touch! In fact we do have 1.2mm Stainless Steel available for laser cutting.
The price would be the same as using 1.5mm if you want to check out some pricing on our Product Configurator: http://lasergist.com/shop/lasergist
We can also provide you with custom pricing depending on your request- so, what are you interested in making?
Edit: I also forgot to ask, what is an appropriate corner radius to use for best compatibilities with the 60% cases on the market (be it aluminium like the Tex cases or plastic Aliexpress ones)
--
Lasergist.com
Also, is the AEK plate design final?
Hi peeps,
I too have been making some inquiries to laser houses around my area (turns out there is one laser cutting company right down the road from my office. They have confirmed they can provide plates of both 1.5mm (Cherry) and 1.2mm (Alps) in both stainless steel and Aly 6082 (good all-around alloy, good price to tensile performance too, although that isn't gonna make much of a difference in the application for keyboard plates)
I'm probably going to be making an order from them within the next few weeks, just waiting for my workload to drop off a little so I can have a bit more time for keyboards... Also they have a minimum order of £125, so I'm probably going to order more plates than I need (planning to get some Cherry 1800 plates cut as well). Just spending a bit of time tweaking my Dell ISO files.
Also, I've been looking at the Alpine Winter keyset, and obtained some excess keys from SP grab bags. I was quite surprised to find that all their large keys have cherry stems (spacebars, shifts, enters and such). Does anyone here have an Alpine Winter set in their possession? I'm curious to find out how you stabilise the mods. Do you just use your Alps wire holder with Costar stem insert? How well does it work and does it hold the key in place without wobbling? Would be great if anyone can chime in on this.MoreI'll keep working on my Dell ISO plate and try and get it cut, and report my findings here.
Anyone here based in the UK/EU? I'm going to have quite a few AEK plates cut based on Hasu's files, since he confirmed fitment with his FR-4 plate, probably will have a few extras afterwards.
MoreI contacted Lasergist about any possibility of steel between 1 and 1.5mm thick and here is their response;Quote from: LasergistHello MandrewDavis,
Thanks for getting in touch! In fact we do have 1.2mm Stainless Steel available for laser cutting.
The price would be the same as using 1.5mm if you want to check out some pricing on our Product Configurator: http://lasergist.com/shop/lasergist
We can also provide you with custom pricing depending on your request- so, what are you interested in making?
Edit: I also forgot to ask, what is an appropriate corner radius to use for best compatibilities with the 60% cases on the market (be it aluminium like the Tex cases or plastic Aliexpress ones)
--
Lasergist.com
Also, is the AEK plate design final?
Hi peeps,
I too have been making some inquiries to laser houses around my area (turns out there is one laser cutting company right down the road from my office. They have confirmed they can provide plates of both 1.5mm (Cherry) and 1.2mm (Alps) in both stainless steel and Aly 6082 (good all-around alloy, good price to tensile performance too, although that isn't gonna make much of a difference in the application for keyboard plates)
I'm probably going to be making an order from them within the next few weeks, just waiting for my workload to drop off a little so I can have a bit more time for keyboards... Also they have a minimum order of £125, so I'm probably going to order more plates than I need (planning to get some Cherry 1800 plates cut as well). Just spending a bit of time tweaking my Dell ISO files.
Also, I've been looking at the Alpine Winter keyset, and obtained some excess keys from SP grab bags. I was quite surprised to find that all their large keys have cherry stems (spacebars, shifts, enters and such). Does anyone here have an Alpine Winter set in their possession? I'm curious to find out how you stabilise the mods. Do you just use your Alps wire holder with Costar stem insert? How well does it work and does it hold the key in place without wobbling? Would be great if anyone can chime in on this.MoreI'll keep working on my Dell ISO plate and try and get it cut, and report my findings here.
Anyone here based in the UK/EU? I'm going to have quite a few AEK plates cut based on Hasu's files, since he confirmed fitment with his FR-4 plate, probably will have a few extras afterwards.
Ooh, finally something I can answer without breaking the Chinese wall for this open source project.
The Alpine Winter caps require a cruciform stabilizer insert, and this can be used with the classic Alps stabilizer clip (the small rectangle on the board). The Matias stabilizer sets have the plastic parts you will need for this. They also include stabilizer wires, but the lengths are incorrect. This can be easily remedied by rebending the stab wires. Some folks have been using wire bending tools for this task, while I personally have been using pliers/hammer/anvil to do it. Either way, correctly rebending the wires produces a well stabilized cap that doesn't have any noticeable rocking or fluttering.
Here (https://matias.store/collections/keycaps-and-switches-1/products/stabilizer-and-hook-set) is a link to the Matias stabilizers.
Here (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=70817.msg1917032#msg1917032) is a link to a size reference. (Edit: for the Alpine Winter caps.)
Here (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=75803.0) is a link to the GB I had for the stabilizers with some pictures and pricing info. Hint: cheaper in bulk.
Edit: I also forgot to ask, what is an appropriate corner radius to use for best compatibilities with the 60% cases on the market (be it aluminium like the Tex cases or plastic Aliexpress ones)
Just got my AEK plate in 304 Stainless from Lasergist. I ordered it on August 2nd, and it arrived today in San Francisco, so turnaround time was pretty fast. Fit and finish is good - the top is perfect, and only a few scratches on the bottom (I didn't choose back side brushing or the touch up bath). It cost me $43 including trackable shipping, which is a lot less than big blue saw wanted.
The cutouts for keys seems to match up perfectly with the stock AEK plate.
I ordered 1MM thick steel, and the ALPS switches clip in just fine.
I will probably build it up this weekend if I get time.
(Attachment Link)
Thanks to all for their efforts for making open source plate designs a reality.
I have 3 Alps64 PCBs lying around waiting to be built for a few friends. As such, I'll be cutting several plates.
If anyone else is interested in a plate, I can look into having a few extra cut, as it might be slightly more cost effective to have several made.
Thanks to all for their efforts for making open source plate designs a reality.
I have 3 Alps64 PCBs lying around waiting to be built for a few friends. As such, I'll be cutting several plates.
If anyone else is interested in a plate, I can look into having a few extra cut, as it might be slightly more cost effective to have several made.
Oh, cool! Which layouts do you plan to use?
Thanks to all for their efforts for making open source plate designs a reality.
I have 3 Alps64 PCBs lying around waiting to be built for a few friends. As such, I'll be cutting several plates.
If anyone else is interested in a plate, I can look into having a few extra cut, as it might be slightly more cost effective to have several made.
Oh, cool! Which layouts do you plan to use?
I'm thinking 3 AEK, or 2 AEK + 1 plate supporting tao hao alps keycaps (one off using lasergist). The AEK plates would probably be most effective getting cut locally with increasing quantity.
Hi loot bag, did the AEK one that you made a while ago worked out perfectly?
Never worked on a AEK plate, only interested in HHKB really.Oh sure, we'd really appreciate your contribution! Let us know how it goes! ;D
Prototype arrived, everything fits great so far.
I need to buy a AT101W for keycaps and the 7U spacebar/stabilizer wire.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/pXYerV8.jpg)
Need some confirmation here.
I forgot to make the cutout for center stem Caps Lock, instead it is shifted and will use the bottom two solder points.
The AT101w caps lock key should work for this position right?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/mCcgA5N.jpg)
Hi guys, I'm trying to load the dxf file for the AT101 into pretty much any program that can read dxf.
Always shows up empty?
Would anyone be so kind to upload it as an .eps or svg?
regards
-s
Hi guys, I'm trying to load the dxf file for the AT101 into pretty much any program that can read dxf.
Always shows up empty?
Would anyone be so kind to upload it as an .eps or svg?
regards
-s
That's strange, I can open the 'Direct' downloaded file just fine in FreeCAD. Sorry about that, I've attached an SVG. Let me know if you need anything else.
emdude,
QCAD refuses to open AT101.dxf but I can open it with LibreCAD and it includes some LISP code on layer :D
The LISP code probably causes the problem with Lasergist and some CADs?
(Attachment Link)
Hi emdude,
I am unable to open the Dell AT101W file in AutoCAD 2017 (or any of the direct .dxf files for that matter). Upon opening the files as plaintext, I noticed a section at the end of the file named Thumbnail_Data, could this be what's causing the failure to open the file? I don't know enough about the actual file structure of .dxf to comment about this or how to fix these files.
<<<<<<< HEAD
...
>>>>>>> cbbad0bf702589c60d733f9f0721427f232183cc
Hi emdude,
I am unable to open the Dell AT101W file in AutoCAD 2017 (or any of the direct .dxf files for that matter). Upon opening the files as plaintext, I noticed a section at the end of the file named Thumbnail_Data, could this be what's causing the failure to open the file? I don't know enough about the actual file structure of .dxf to comment about this or how to fix these files.
Hi emdude,
I am unable to open the Dell AT101W file in AutoCAD 2017 (or any of the direct .dxf files for that matter). Upon opening the files as plaintext, I noticed a section at the end of the file named Thumbnail_Data, could this be what's causing the failure to open the file? I don't know enough about the actual file structure of .dxf to comment about this or how to fix these files.
AT101W.dxf seems to has two excess lines, remove them at the beginning and end of the file.Code: [Select]<<<<<<< HEAD
...
>>>>>>> cbbad0bf702589c60d733f9f0721427f232183cc
Hi emdude,
I am unable to open the Dell AT101W file in AutoCAD 2017 (or any of the direct .dxf files for that matter). Upon opening the files as plaintext, I noticed a section at the end of the file named Thumbnail_Data, could this be what's causing the failure to open the file? I don't know enough about the actual file structure of .dxf to comment about this or how to fix these files.Hi emdude,
I am unable to open the Dell AT101W file in AutoCAD 2017 (or any of the direct .dxf files for that matter). Upon opening the files as plaintext, I noticed a section at the end of the file named Thumbnail_Data, could this be what's causing the failure to open the file? I don't know enough about the actual file structure of .dxf to comment about this or how to fix these files.
AT101W.dxf seems to has two excess lines, remove them at the beginning and end of the file.Code: [Select]<<<<<<< HEAD
...
>>>>>>> cbbad0bf702589c60d733f9f0721427f232183cc
Thanks a ton, hasu, and sorry about the issue, duynguyenle. I'll go ahead and fix this. AutoCAD is really picky when it comes to .dxf files, but a program like FreeCAD should work too.
EDIT: It is fixed. It appears that only the standard AT101W had those extraneous lines so everything else should work. Please let me know if you run into any other issues.
Those seem to be conflict markers generated by git, I suppose AutoCAD wouldn't have any of it.
I had the Tai-Hao plate made and found one issue: the stab cutouts on the right shift are just a bit too far apart. I ended up having to cut my own stab wire from a spare space bar wire.
I had the Tai-Hao plate made and found one issue: the stab cutouts on the right shift are just a bit too far apart. I ended up having to cut my own stab wire from a spare space bar wire.
any idea on how the design be corrected? i am currently asking asking to cut this same plate for me and i have no access nor experience with the applications used to make the necessary adjustment.
Install QCAD or LibreCAD, they are intuitive and don't require much time to learn.
Love the work in this post! If I'm just looking for a plate for Alpine Winter with native Cherry Stabilizer support though... anyone try just Cherry style plate mount stabilizers with ALPS holes, for hasu's ALPS64 PCB?
Love the work in this post! If I'm just looking for a plate for Alpine Winter with native Cherry Stabilizer support though... anyone try just Cherry style plate mount stabilizers with ALPS holes, for hasu's ALPS64 PCB?
Wow!!! This is so awesome!
A GB can finally be run for any Alps plate layout. Thank you emdude and everyone who contributed.
Question, I see different formatting in the description. I see
1. Alps Style, Costar Style stabilizers (untested)
2. Alps Style (untested)
Costar Style (untested)
Does the first formatting mean that Alps Style is confirmed and the Costar is untested. Or does it mean both are untested?
I had the Tai-Hao plate made and found one issue: the stab cutouts on the right shift are just a bit too far apart. I ended up having to cut my own stab wire from a spare space bar wire.
Love the work in this post! If I'm just looking for a plate for Alpine Winter with native Cherry Stabilizer support though... anyone try just Cherry style plate mount stabilizers with ALPS holes, for hasu's ALPS64 PCB?
For the AT101 plate, the lower area for stabilizers are 0.1mm thin. Are you guys sure this is right? Because my local laser cutting shop says it will be broken.
Thanks man, does the stabiliser works perfectly?For the AT101 plate, the lower area for stabilizers are 0.1mm thin. Are you guys sure this is right? Because my local laser cutting shop says it will be broken.
That is indeed very thin. I modified the file to move the stab hole upwards by about 0.5mm, which came out OK when laser cut by my local sheet metal fab
For the AT101 plate, the lower area for stabilizers are 0.1mm thin. Are you guys sure this is right? Because my local laser cutting shop says it will be broken.
Anyone has a plate layout for WANG 725-3370 ISO or ANSI ?
https://deskthority.net/wiki/Wang_725-3770
It's not about blocking, it's about stab position and size.
Also the ISO Wang has a bigger than usual ISO enter.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/icaVM5J.png)
I know, I know. I can't decide what to do.i would make the aek as donor if i where you. it's more comon compared to wangs... we dont have them here. aek will give you caps and switches
I got 2 alps64 pcbs and ISO / ANSI variants of AEK / SGI and WANGs.
I have a NIB AZERTY AEK2 that I kinda wanna use for switches and a NIB WANG ANSI that I'm thinking of using for caps. The others are in various states.
Really can't decide what to do.
JDcarpe drew this up for me after I talked to him about starting the project. Its one of the GH60 layouts (the one I wanted) and still has the cherry-style stabholes. If you buy those particular keys (or all of them, whatever) from Signature Plastics, you're good; They have both alps & cherry stab-grabbers.
When I was doing GBs for ss-ergodox cases, I had this cut in '6061' (I think he used 5052 but :rolleyes: whatever.) and have partially assembled it (enabler-PCBs). To wit, it's populated with switches, and has been tested with keycaps to make sure it works out okay but I've never finished wiring it :eek: :-X
It might not be what anyone here is looking for, but I was appreciative, and I think it's slightly different than other plates already in this thread.
(Attachment Link)
@emdude: (or anyone who would like to respond!) I like the HHKB layout, but I am concerned about finding some of the keycaps, such as the 6.0u Spacebar and short Right Shift. For most of my Alps-switch keyboards, I use blank black modifiers and spacebars from Matias and vintage doubleshot or dye-sub PBT caps for the alphanumeric keys. AFAIK, Matias does not make short Right Shift caps or 6.0u Spacebars (they have 6.25u and 7.00u Spacebars).
Considering the Hasu Alps64 PCB and the various plates that can be made, I suppose one could make a hybrid layout, such as a split Backspace with everything else "standard". I've found that HHKB mapping works almost as well with a standard layout, using RCtrl as Fn. At least this way, I would have no problem finding keycaps.
Other ideas welcome!
@emdude: (or anyone who would like to respond!) I like the HHKB layout, but I am concerned about finding some of the keycaps, such as the 6.0u Spacebar and short Right Shift. For most of my Alps-switch keyboards, I use blank black modifiers and spacebars from Matias and vintage doubleshot or dye-sub PBT caps for the alphanumeric keys. AFAIK, Matias does not make short Right Shift caps or 6.0u Spacebars (they have 6.25u and 7.00u Spacebars).
Considering the Hasu Alps64 PCB and the various plates that can be made, I suppose one could make a hybrid layout, such as a split Backspace with everything else "standard". I've found that HHKB mapping works almost as well with a standard layout, using RCtrl as Fn. At least this way, I would have no problem finding keycaps.
Other ideas welcome!
@emdude: (or anyone who would like to respond!) I like the HHKB layout, but I am concerned about finding some of the keycaps, such as the 6.0u Spacebar and short Right Shift. For most of my Alps-switch keyboards, I use blank black modifiers and spacebars from Matias and vintage doubleshot or dye-sub PBT caps for the alphanumeric keys. AFAIK, Matias does not make short Right Shift caps or 6.0u Spacebars (they have 6.25u and 7.00u Spacebars).
Considering the Hasu Alps64 PCB and the various plates that can be made, I suppose one could make a hybrid layout, such as a split Backspace with everything else "standard". I've found that HHKB mapping works almost as well with a standard layout, using RCtrl as Fn. At least this way, I would have no problem finding keycaps.
Other ideas welcome!
I am unaware of anyone who produces the keycaps you are looking for, besides SP; they offer a limited selection of Alps-mount caps in DSA and DCS profiles. They do have a 6u space bar in DCS profile: http://pimpmykeyboard.com/dcs-alps-mount-space-bar-pack-of-1/
Thanks for the link to the SP caps and thanks for the offer to buy the Chicony spacebar. I appreciate this, but I think I will go with as many standard and readily available keycaps as possible. With this in mind, which plate would enable having a split Backspace and split Right Shift with everything else standard (bottom row with either a 6.25u or 7.00u Spacebar and the other mods chosen the fill the row)? As long as the plate and PCB would accommodate this plan, the only challenge would be getting the short Right Shift -- I have some of these from vintage boards, and although the profile would not match, it would be possible to use a blank CapsLock from Matias.<snip> ....
Other ideas welcome!
I have a Chicony 5981 I am trying to sell and today someone offered to buy the switches only. It has a 6.0u spacebar and uses MX stabilizer inserts.
Thanks for the link to the SP caps and thanks for the offer to buy the Chicony spacebar. I appreciate this, but I think I will go with as many standard and readily available keycaps as possible. With this in mind, which plate would enable having a split Backspace and split Right Shift with everything else standard (bottom row with either a 6.25u or 7.00u Spacebar and the other mods chosen the fill the row)? As long as the plate and PCB would accommodate this plan, the only challenge would be getting the short Right Shift -- I have some of these from vintage boards, and although the profile would not match, it would be possible to use a blank CapsLock from Matias.
Thanks for the offer! I might take you up on this. I will think about it and send you a PM.Thanks for the link to the SP caps and thanks for the offer to buy the Chicony spacebar. I appreciate this, but I think I will go with as many standard and readily available keycaps as possible. With this in mind, which plate would enable having a split Backspace and split Right Shift with everything else standard (bottom row with either a 6.25u or 7.00u Spacebar and the other mods chosen the fill the row)? As long as the plate and PCB would accommodate this plan, the only challenge would be getting the short Right Shift -- I have some of these from vintage boards, and although the profile would not match, it would be possible to use a blank CapsLock from Matias.
I don't believe there are any plates in the OP that fulfill your requirements. I can make one though, please let me know whether you want one with a 7u or 6.25u spacebar.
Hey does anybody know the measurements for this way of supporting both Alps and MX stabs on the same plate:
http://matias.ca/60/pc/viewer/?p=5
?
Hey guys,
I am having trouble trying to create a plate with swill's program. My criteria for the plate is split backspace, split shift, and a bottom row of 1.5, 1.25, 6.5, 1.5, 1.25, 1.5, or the aek bottom row. Alps stabilzers because I am using the aek keycaps. I also don't need stabs on the caps lock. So if anyone is willing to help me make this plate I will be very grateful.
Here is the Raw data of the layout:
["Esc","!\n1","@\n2","#\n3","$\n4","%\n5","^\n6","&\n7","*\n8","(\n9",")\n0","_\n-","+\n=","|\n\\","~\n`"],
[{w:1.5},"Tab","Q","W","E","R","T","Y","U","I","O","P","{\n[","}\n]",{w:1.5},"Backspace"],
[{w:1.75},"Caps Lock","A","S","D","F","G","H","J","K","L",":\n;","\"\n'",{w:2.25},"Enter"],
[{w:2.25},"Shift","Z","X","C","V","B","N","M","<\n,",">\n.","?\n/",{w:1.75},"Shift","Fn"],
[{w:1.5},"Ctrl",{w:1.25},"Win",{w:1.5},"Alt",{a:7,w:6.5},"",{a:4,w:1.5},"Alt",{w:1.25},"Win",{w:1.5},"Ctrl"]
Hey does anybody know the measurements for this way of supporting both Alps and MX stabs on the same plate:
http://matias.ca/60/pc/viewer/?p=5
?
Hey does anybody know the measurements for this way of supporting both Alps and MX stabs on the same plate:
http://matias.ca/60/pc/viewer/?p=5
?
Hey, just stumbled upon this (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=68887.msg1699414#msg1699414) from a while back!
Hey guys, I have a little problem and it would be grat if you could help me out with it. So I kind of impulsively bought a set of dcs alpine winter and matias switches before putting my research in a plate and stabilizers. My question would now be if somebody knows how to make a ISO plate, that also has a HHKB layout and if there is such a thing(because I didn't find it anywhere) which stabilzers do I have to use with it? The alpine winter set is kind of strange because it has mx mounts for the stabilizers, could I just use Matias stabilizers and put mx inserts in it?
Hi, I found this( https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/7udfl1/its_wednesday_my_dudes/ ) some days ago when it was posted and thought it has to be possible then. Sadly the poster did not respond to my message about the plate, maybe I'll have to pm him.
Hey guys, I have a little problem and it would be grat if you could help me out with it. So I kind of impulsively bought a set of dcs alpine winter and matias switches before putting my research in a plate and stabilizers. My question would now be if somebody knows how to make a ISO plate, that also has a HHKB layout and if there is such a thing(because I didn't find it anywhere) which stabilzers do I have to use with it? The alpine winter set is kind of strange because it has mx mounts for the stabilizers, could I just use Matias stabilizers and put mx inserts in it?
I don't think anyone has made an ISO plate for the Alps64 yet, so I don't know which stabilizers you would use. I guess we just need an ISO AEKII or AT102 plate to look at.
And yes, you can use Matias stabilizers with the MX inserts for Alpine Winter.
Hey guys, I have a little problem and it would be grat if you could help me out with it. So I kind of impulsively bought a set of dcs alpine winter and matias switches before putting my research in a plate and stabilizers. My question would now be if somebody knows how to make a ISO plate, that also has a HHKB layout and if there is such a thing(because I didn't find it anywhere) which stabilzers do I have to use with it? The alpine winter set is kind of strange because it has mx mounts for the stabilizers, could I just use Matias stabilizers and put mx inserts in it?
I don't think anyone has made an ISO plate for the Alps64 yet, so I don't know which stabilizers you would use. I guess we just need an ISO AEKII or AT102 plate to look at.
And yes, you can use Matias stabilizers with the MX inserts for Alpine Winter.
I did. For use with AT102W caps. Due to a variety of reasons I have not managed to complete the build, but tested the plate with switches and caps and they work fine. Swills tool will not generate correctly spaced holes for the ISO enter switch position, possibly due to non-standard stem spacing on the cap itself, so I modified the plate manually with the help of some calipers and access to the original AT102W plate for measurement.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/9Cnv9Tq.jpg)
Yes that would be great, because I would like to use the neo layout which uses the key next to left shift as a modifierHey guys, I have a little problem and it would be grat if you could help me out with it. So I kind of impulsively bought a set of dcs alpine winter and matias switches before putting my research in a plate and stabilizers. My question would now be if somebody knows how to make a ISO plate, that also has a HHKB layout and if there is such a thing(because I didn't find it anywhere) which stabilzers do I have to use with it? The alpine winter set is kind of strange because it has mx mounts for the stabilizers, could I just use Matias stabilizers and put mx inserts in it?
I don't think anyone has made an ISO plate for the Alps64 yet, so I don't know which stabilizers you would use. I guess we just need an ISO AEKII or AT102 plate to look at.
And yes, you can use Matias stabilizers with the MX inserts for Alpine Winter.
I did. For use with AT102W caps. Due to a variety of reasons I have not managed to complete the build, but tested the plate with switches and caps and they work fine. Swills tool will not generate correctly spaced holes for the ISO enter switch position, possibly due to non-standard stem spacing on the cap itself, so I modified the plate manually with the help of some calipers and access to the original AT102W plate for measurement.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/9Cnv9Tq.jpg)
Hey guys, I have a little problem and it would be grat if you could help me out with it. So I kind of impulsively bought a set of dcs alpine winter and matias switches before putting my research in a plate and stabilizers. My question would now be if somebody knows how to make a ISO plate, that also has a HHKB layout and if there is such a thing(because I didn't find it anywhere) which stabilzers do I have to use with it? The alpine winter set is kind of strange because it has mx mounts for the stabilizers, could I just use Matias stabilizers and put mx inserts in it?
I don't think anyone has made an ISO plate for the Alps64 yet, so I don't know which stabilizers you would use. I guess we just need an ISO AEKII or AT102 plate to look at.
And yes, you can use Matias stabilizers with the MX inserts for Alpine Winter.
I did. For use with AT102W caps. Due to a variety of reasons I have not managed to complete the build, but tested the plate with switches and caps and they work fine. Swills tool will not generate correctly spaced holes for the ISO enter switch position, possibly due to non-standard stem spacing on the cap itself, so I modified the plate manually with the help of some calipers and access to the original AT102W plate for measurement.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/9Cnv9Tq.jpg)
If you don’t mind sharing those measurements, I can modify the AT101W plate and make a pull request to emdude’s Github to add it to the collection.
Hey guys, I have a little problem and it would be grat if you could help me out with it. So I kind of impulsively bought a set of dcs alpine winter and matias switches before putting my research in a plate and stabilizers. My question would now be if somebody knows how to make a ISO plate, that also has a HHKB layout and if there is such a thing(because I didn't find it anywhere) which stabilzers do I have to use with it? The alpine winter set is kind of strange because it has mx mounts for the stabilizers, could I just use Matias stabilizers and put mx inserts in it?
I don't think anyone has made an ISO plate for the Alps64 yet, so I don't know which stabilizers you would use. I guess we just need an ISO AEKII or AT102 plate to look at.
And yes, you can use Matias stabilizers with the MX inserts for Alpine Winter.
I did. For use with AT102W caps. Due to a variety of reasons I have not managed to complete the build, but tested the plate with switches and caps and they work fine. Swills tool will not generate correctly spaced holes for the ISO enter switch position, possibly due to non-standard stem spacing on the cap itself, so I modified the plate manually with the help of some calipers and access to the original AT102W plate for measurement.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/9Cnv9Tq.jpg)
If you don’t mind sharing those measurements, I can modify the AT101W plate and make a pull request to emdude’s Github to add it to the collection.
Sorry I'm away on vacation until after CNY holidays, will put a reminder in for when I come back
Hey guys, I have a little problem and it would be grat if you could help me out with it. So I kind of impulsively bought a set of dcs alpine winter and matias switches before putting my research in a plate and stabilizers. My question would now be if somebody knows how to make a ISO plate, that also has a HHKB layout and if there is such a thing(because I didn't find it anywhere) which stabilzers do I have to use with it? The alpine winter set is kind of strange because it has mx mounts for the stabilizers, could I just use Matias stabilizers and put mx inserts in it?
I don't think anyone has made an ISO plate for the Alps64 yet, so I don't know which stabilizers you would use. I guess we just need an ISO AEKII or AT102 plate to look at.
And yes, you can use Matias stabilizers with the MX inserts for Alpine Winter.
I did. For use with AT102W caps. Due to a variety of reasons I have not managed to complete the build, but tested the plate with switches and caps and they work fine. Swills tool will not generate correctly spaced holes for the ISO enter switch position, possibly due to non-standard stem spacing on the cap itself, so I modified the plate manually with the help of some calipers and access to the original AT102W plate for measurement.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/9Cnv9Tq.jpg)
If you don’t mind sharing those measurements, I can modify the AT101W plate and make a pull request to emdude’s Github to add it to the collection.
Sorry I'm away on vacation until after CNY holidays, will put a reminder in for when I come back
That would be great, thank you.
I had the Tai-Hao plate made and found one issue: the stab cutouts on the right shift are just a bit too far apart. I ended up having to cut my own stab wire from a spare space bar wire.
Where did you source the stabs from?I had the Tai-Hao plate made and found one issue: the stab cutouts on the right shift are just a bit too far apart. I ended up having to cut my own stab wire from a spare space bar wire.
can confirm that the right shift left stab insert is too far away. wasted $40+ on the plate due to this. can someone fix this? unfortunately i currently do not know how to fix the layout.
I had the Tai-Hao plate made and found one issue: the stab cutouts on the right shift are just a bit too far apart. I ended up having to cut my own stab wire from a spare space bar wire.
Is the Tai-Hao plate compatible with the Alps64 PCB? I'd very much like to get into the 60% Alps business.
I had the Tai-Hao plate made and found one issue: the stab cutouts on the right shift are just a bit too far apart. I ended up having to cut my own stab wire from a spare space bar wire.
had same issue as well. in the meantime for those that want to use the tai hao design plate, don't. the right stab cutouts are too wide part from each other. i suppose the only way to fix this is to make your own stab wire which seems difficult to do.
Hey guys, I have a little problem and it would be grat if you could help me out with it. So I kind of impulsively bought a set of dcs alpine winter and matias switches before putting my research in a plate and stabilizers. My question would now be if somebody knows how to make a ISO plate, that also has a HHKB layout and if there is such a thing(because I didn't find it anywhere) which stabilzers do I have to use with it? The alpine winter set is kind of strange because it has mx mounts for the stabilizers, could I just use Matias stabilizers and put mx inserts in it?
I don't think anyone has made an ISO plate for the Alps64 yet, so I don't know which stabilizers you would use. I guess we just need an ISO AEKII or AT102 plate to look at.
And yes, you can use Matias stabilizers with the MX inserts for Alpine Winter.
I did. For use with AT102W caps. Due to a variety of reasons I have not managed to complete the build, but tested the plate with switches and caps and they work fine. Swills tool will not generate correctly spaced holes for the ISO enter switch position, possibly due to non-standard stem spacing on the cap itself, so I modified the plate manually with the help of some calipers and access to the original AT102W plate for measurement.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/9Cnv9Tq.jpg)
If you don’t mind sharing those measurements, I can modify the AT101W plate and make a pull request to emdude’s Github to add it to the collection.
Sorry I'm away on vacation until after CNY holidays, will put a reminder in for when I come back
That would be great, thank you.
I think this is the one
AT101 plateHere's some AT101W info about the right shift location on stock plate, stock caps, and TH caps. If this doesn't clear up the mismatch I could do a mockup assembly later and see if it gets wonky on the stock plate.
plate for Focus FK-2001Here's a picture of my FK-2001 stock plate, the spacebar stabs look like ReDsNoTDeAd's above. Just to confirm your work.
babyfeets, thank you for the pics.
I updated emdude's 'Dell AT101' file in the first post and fixed right shift stab cutouts to 37mm width.
Any AT101, AT101W keycap and stab is not available in hand and I can't confirm the fix myself. It would be appreciated if someone can test it.
emdude's right shift stab width is 40.5mm in AT101, AT101W and TAIHAO plates, all of them should be fixed as well probably.
babyfeets, thank you for the pics.
I updated emdude's 'Dell AT101' file in the first post and fixed right shift stab cutouts to 37mm width.
Any AT101, AT101W keycap and stab is not available in hand and I can't confirm the fix myself. It would be appreciated if someone can test it.
emdude's right shift stab width is 40.5mm in AT101, AT101W and TAIHAO plates, all of them should be fixed as well probably.
babyfeets, thank you for the pics.
I updated emdude's 'Dell AT101' file in the first post and fixed right shift stab cutouts to 37mm width.
Any AT101, AT101W keycap and stab is not available in hand and I can't confirm the fix myself. It would be appreciated if someone can test it.
emdude's right shift stab width is 40.5mm in AT101, AT101W and TAIHAO plates, all of them should be fixed as well probably.
Any chance you could do an updated Tai hao plate with the right shift corrected?
babyfeets, thank you for the pics.
I updated emdude's 'Dell AT101' file in the first post and fixed right shift stab cutouts to 37mm width.
Any AT101, AT101W keycap and stab is not available in hand and I can't confirm the fix myself. It would be appreciated if someone can test it.
emdude's right shift stab width is 40.5mm in AT101, AT101W and TAIHAO plates, all of them should be fixed as well probably.
Any chance you could do an updated Tai hao plate with the right shift corrected?
If you have keycap and stab and can get plate to test this I will do for you.
Can you share dimensions of your keycap and stab like this post?
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=82916.msg2770715#msg2770715
Came back to say you can make a working 60% Tai-Hao plate with swill's plate builder.
Add _s:3 to your spacebar, e.g. {a:7,w:6.25,_s:3}
Which file are you referring to?
And what company are you going to use?
I forgot the file includes the dimension drawings and just found them again. I don't have file without the drawings now.
I'll update the file some later.
https://raw.githubusercontent.com/tmk/alps64/Plate_AEK_RevA/alps64_aek_plate.dxf
EDIT: Updated.
Instead, you can use this newer design file. Also check 'Plate' section in the first post of Alps64 PCB thread.
The file seems to work with sendcutsend.com.
https://github.com/tmk/alps64_plate/blob/plate_aek_flip_spacebar/alps64_plate_aek_flip_spacebar.dxf
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=69740.0
This seems to be a great resource! It's amazing what people can do when they put their minds to it 🤓
I'm hoping someone can confirm this: the Dell AT101 (7u Space Bar, Stepped Caps Lock) is the layout I should choose in order to support SGI's Granite keyboard (https://deskthority.net/wiki/SGI_Bigfoot_series#SGI_Granite_2), yes?
This seems to be a great resource! It's amazing what people can do when they put their minds to it
I'm hoping someone can confirm this: the Dell AT101 (7u Space Bar, Stepped Caps Lock) is the layout I should choose in order to support SGI's Granite keyboard (https://deskthority.net/wiki/SGI_Bigfoot_series#SGI_Granite_2), yes?
As fa as I know people have reported that the design file in the first post has problem on right shift key stab.
You will have to skim this thread and check yourself before placing order.
This is file with change on the key by me but it is not confirmed yet.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=82916.msg2771385#msg2771385
toniwonkanobi,
It's a shame.
That thin part is just 0.1171mm, it doesn't seems to be enough margin and safe in all situations. I can't remember this was reported by others before. I'll be able to fix it when I get time.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=82916.msg2231722#msg2231722
Did you use this data file for the order, or one in the first post? Right shift stabilizers works?
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=82916.msg2771385#msg2771385
Let us know if you find any other problem.
OP is not active here and on github anymore, we will need new thread(or new github repo/wiki?) to maintain and share infos easily with the community and new comers.
toniwonkanobi,
It's a shame.
That thin part is just 0.1171mm, it doesn't seems to be enough margin and safe in all situations. I can't remember this was reported by others before. I'll be able to fix it when I get time.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=82916.msg2231722#msg2231722
Did you use this data file for the order, or one in the first post? Right shift stabilizers works?
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=82916.msg2771385#msg2771385
Let us know if you find any other problem.
OP is not active here and on github anymore, we will need new thread(or new github repo/wiki?) to maintain and share infos easily with the community and new comers.
I think the data file in that message you linked is the same file as the AT101 in the first post, because you said you were going to update the first post right?
And I can confirm the RShift stabilizers fit well enough. I only had an AEK mods RShift to test (even though the plate was made for the SGI Granite keycap set):Show Image(https://d.pr/i/uirVZT+)Show Image(https://d.pr/i/crKwyV+)Show Image(https://d.pr/i/poLJBR+)
toniwonkanobi,
It's a shame.
That thin part is just 0.1171mm, it doesn't seems to be enough margin and safe in all situations. I can't remember this was reported by others before. I'll be able to fix it when I get time.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=82916.msg2231722#msg2231722
Did you use this data file for the order, or one in the first post? Right shift stabilizers works?
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=82916.msg2771385#msg2771385
Let us know if you find any other problem.
OP is not active here and on github anymore, we will need new thread(or new github repo/wiki?) to maintain and share infos easily with the community and new comers.
I think the data file in that message you linked is the same file as the AT101 in the first post, because you said you were going to update the first post right?
No, I meant changed the Right Shift stab cutouts of original file and attached the fixed file in my post. My Engrish could confuse you there probably. And who can update the first post and github repo is only OP(emdude), and those were not updated since 2017. You will have to skim all posts in this thread to get correct info unfortunately at the time.
So, I'm assuming that you used this file to order you plate.
https://raw.githubusercontent.com/emdude/Alps-60-Keyboard-Plates/master/AT101.dxf
And I can confirm the RShift stabilizers fit well enough. I only had an AEK mods RShift to test (even though the plate was made for the SGI Granite keycap set):Show Image(https://d.pr/i/uirVZT+)Show Image(https://d.pr/i/crKwyV+)Show Image(https://d.pr/i/poLJBR+)
I though you were going to use SGI keycaps on the plate.
Yes, AEK right shift stab is wide enough to fit the cutouts. But I thought some people report problem with stab from Dell AT101, AT101W or something. I guess SGI stabs are equivalent or similar to Dell AT101. If you have a plan to get SGI keycaps later report back when they are available.
What exect model number did you get that keycap and stabilizer from?
That keycap ledgend and stab wire doesn't look usual one, your is German M0115D or other Euro model? https://deskthority.net/wiki/Apple_Extended_Keyboard#M0115D_-_German_Model
Stab wire from US model at least doesn't work that way like pic below. Dimensions of the stab wire must be different. That is interesting.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/pXiMIU1.jpg)
So the RShift I had on hand was from a French-Canadian AEK (M0115), but I think it’s the same size as the RShift on the SGI Granite? Is that not the case?
Also, did I read it right that you think you’ll be able to upload an AT101 version with the correct RShift stabilizer cutouts, and you can edit the dxf to have more metal on the bottom, so that the laser won’t cut off those space bar stabilizer clip areas (to prevent what happened with LaserBoost on their first try)?
Yes, if you or someone won't do that, I'll do it and post here some later when I get time.
[EDIT]
What keycaps are you going to use with this plate actually?
I think AEK space bar, capslock and modifiers excepting shift wont' fit.
Stab wire from US model at least doesn't work that way like pic below. Dimensions of the stab wire must be different. That is interesting.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/pXiMIU1.jpg)
QuoteStab wire from US model at least doesn't work that way like pic below. Dimensions of the stab wire must be different. That is interesting.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/pXiMIU1.jpg)
And at least in this picture you included in this message, you should be able to get the stabilizer to work:
1. Try rotating the stabilizer wire clips 180°, so that the end which holds the stabilizer wire is toward the north/top side of the plate
2. Try clipping to the stabilizer clips the "closed" end of the stabilizer wire, instead of the "open" ends as was the case for your picture
If you do both of these things, I think you'll find that the stabilizer wire clears the switch and everything will be as it should.
QuoteStab wire from US model at least doesn't work that way like pic below. Dimensions of the stab wire must be different. That is interesting.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/pXiMIU1.jpg)
And at least in this picture you included in this message, you should be able to get the stabilizer to work:
1. Try rotating the stabilizer wire clips 180°, so that the end which holds the stabilizer wire is toward the north/top side of the plate
2. Try clipping to the stabilizer clips the "closed" end of the stabilizer wire, instead of the "open" ends as was the case for your picture
If you do both of these things, I think you'll find that the stabilizer wire clears the switch and everything will be as it should.
Yes, my stab wire works in normal way(I believe) without problem.
I just wanted to say with my pic that US AEK stabilizer wire doesn't work that way as your stab does.
You posted pics which show the French-Canadian M0115 stab is used in "reverse"(from my point of view). It was surprised me somewhat because I never seen Alps stab wire is used that way so far.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=82916.msg2925272#msg2925272
The stabilizers were installed "reverse" way originally in the French-Canadian M0115?
QuoteStab wire from US model at least doesn't work that way like pic below. Dimensions of the stab wire must be different. That is interesting.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/pXiMIU1.jpg)
And at least in this picture you included in this message, you should be able to get the stabilizer to work:
1. Try rotating the stabilizer wire clips 180°, so that the end which holds the stabilizer wire is toward the north/top side of the plate
2. Try clipping to the stabilizer clips the "closed" end of the stabilizer wire, instead of the "open" ends as was the case for your picture
If you do both of these things, I think you'll find that the stabilizer wire clears the switch and everything will be as it should.
Yes, my stab wire works in normal way(I believe) without problem.
I just wanted to say with my pic that US AEK stabilizer wire doesn't work that way as your stab does.
You posted pics which show the French-Canadian M0115 stab is used in "reverse"(from my point of view). It was surprised me somewhat because I never seen Alps stab wire is used that way so far.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=82916.msg2925272#msg2925272
The stabilizers were installed "reverse" way originally in the French-Canadian M0115?
You know, I actually don't have a set of regular ("US") ANSI AEK/AEKII keycaps here to compare with the icon mods version (whose RShift I included in my photos above). But I can't imagine it being different?
QuoteStab wire from US model at least doesn't work that way like pic below. Dimensions of the stab wire must be different. That is interesting.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/pXiMIU1.jpg)
And at least in this picture you included in this message, you should be able to get the stabilizer to work:
1. Try rotating the stabilizer wire clips 180°, so that the end which holds the stabilizer wire is toward the north/top side of the plate
2. Try clipping to the stabilizer clips the "closed" end of the stabilizer wire, instead of the "open" ends as was the case for your picture
If you do both of these things, I think you'll find that the stabilizer wire clears the switch and everything will be as it should.
Yes, my stab wire works in normal way(I believe) without problem.
I just wanted to say with my pic that US AEK stabilizer wire doesn't work that way as your stab does.
You posted pics which show the French-Canadian M0115 stab is used in "reverse"(from my point of view). It was surprised me somewhat because I never seen Alps stab wire is used that way so far.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=82916.msg2925272#msg2925272
The stabilizers were installed "reverse" way originally in the French-Canadian M0115?
You know, I actually don't have a set of regular ("US") ANSI AEK/AEKII keycaps here to compare with the icon mods version (whose RShift I included in my photos above). But I can't imagine it being different?
It is obvious that the two stab wires are diffrent, so I guess their keycaps can have diffrence somehow even if they are compatible each other.
Again, once I get the SGI Granite keycap set in (hopefully today), I can take some pictures to definitively figure out if the AT101 in the OP is sufficient, or if your edited one is a better fit, and then maybe you can make a new AT101 file, with just a *tad* bit more metal on the bottom space bar stabilizer clip areas :)
Again, once I get the SGI Granite keycap set in (hopefully today), I can take some pictures to definitively figure out if the AT101 in the OP is sufficient, or if your edited one is a better fit, and then maybe you can make a new AT101 file, with just a *tad* bit more metal on the bottom space bar stabilizer clip areas :)
I'd confirm that your "SGI Granite keycap set" means genuine ones from real SGI keyboard.
Modified or cloned keycaps/stabilizers are not preferable when testing the AT101 plate dimension.
Are you going to get whole of the SGI keyboard?
And can you share dimensions of clip cutouts of Right Shift like pic below?
https://imgur.com/L2cieWS
Thanks for the confrimation on Right shift stab.
So Right Shift stab cutouts on "Dell AT101" plate work with stab wire from Dell and SGI 101. Good to know.
Please post your result when you get new plate from next iteration!
I guess manufacturing of you plate just went wrong or with bad tolerance for some reason.
I think people tend to go with stainless steel for plate, while your plate matrial is aluminum. This may cause torelance, perhaps?
What did LaserBoost say for explanation when you get refund from them?
Someone (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=45456.msg2926121#msg2926121) in the Alps Appreciation Thread (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=45456.0) was nice enough to thicken up those bottom spacebar stabilizer clip cutouts in AT101.dxf file in this thread's first post (the same file which Hasu was also kind enough to say he'd edit eventually). I assume Hasu is waiting on my report regarding the RShift stabilizers (which I can do once I get those dang keycaps in hand).
Everything looks good to me, though:
Someone (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=45456.msg2926121#msg2926121) in the Alps Appreciation Thread (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=45456.0) was nice enough to thicken up those bottom spacebar stabilizer clip cutouts in AT101.dxf file in this thread's first post (the same file which Hasu was also kind enough to say he'd edit eventually). I assume Hasu is waiting on my report regarding the RShift stabilizers (which I can do once I get those dang keycaps in hand).
Everything looks good to me, though:
Hi there, i am looking to make a plate based on the AT 101 file shared in there. I see that you have a newer and perhaps more accurate version. my plan is to make it by jr4 with jlc, just wonder if that would make any different and how are the stabs for the space bar on your plate? Are they fit nicely? A friend voiced a concern that the cut is too close to the edge. Many thanks
I'm not sure what jr4 and ilc are :/
But in regards to the spacebar stabilizer clip cutouts. Yes: they are super close to the bottom edge of the plate. The version I had someone alter for me moved those spacebar stabilizer clip cutout locations like 0.3mm toward the top of the board, to create sufficient thickness of aluminum along the bottom edge. The stabilizer clip cutouts aren't super ultra tight, but they're tight enough around the stabilizer clips.
I'm not sure what jr4 and ilc are :/
But in regards to the spacebar stabilizer clip cutouts. Yes: they are super close to the bottom edge of the plate. The version I had someone alter for me moved those spacebar stabilizer clip cutout locations like 0.3mm toward the top of the board, to create sufficient thickness of aluminum along the bottom edge. The stabilizer clip cutouts aren't super ultra tight, but they're tight enough around the stabilizer clips.
Typo, FR4 is what i meant, basically the material for pcb. and jlcpcb is a go to company for making your pcb and fr4 plate. do you have the file for the altered version to share?