The Living Soldering Thread

[Beca]

I recently got a Noppoo Choc Mini and found out that two keys (the O and L keys) either don't register when pressed, don't register unless another key is pressed immediately after, or just register twice consistently.

I guess I need to desolder the two switches and replace them, but I want to do it on the cheap.

Would a crappy, not temperature-controllable (in terms of a dial or switch) work if I'm just going to use it for two switches?

I'm talking about something like this: http://www.amazon.com/60-Watts-Soldering-Iron-listed/dp/B0006NGZK0

[Pacifist]

I recently got a Noppoo Choc Mini and found out that two keys (the O and L keys) either don't register when pressed, don't register unless another key is pressed immediately after, or just register twice consistently.

I guess I need to desolder the two switches and replace them, but I want to do it on the cheap.

Would a crappy, not temperature-controllable (in terms of a dial or switch) work if I'm just going to use it for two switches?

I'm talking about something like this: http://www.amazon.com/60-Watts-Soldering-Iron-listed/dp/B0006NGZK0

RMA

[Melvang]

I recently got a Noppoo Choc Mini and found out that two keys (the O and L keys) either don't register when pressed, don't register unless another key is pressed immediately after, or just register twice consistently.

I guess I need to desolder the two switches and replace them, but I want to do it on the cheap.

Would a crappy, not temperature-controllable (in terms of a dial or switch) work if I'm just going to use it for two switches?

I'm talking about something like this: http://www.amazon.com/60-Watts-Soldering-Iron-listed/dp/B0006NGZK0

RMA

I second this motion.  Sounds like more than just a bad solder job to me.

[Beca]

I recently got a Noppoo Choc Mini and found out that two keys (the O and L keys) either don't register when pressed, don't register unless another key is pressed immediately after, or just register twice consistently.

I guess I need to desolder the two switches and replace them, but I want to do it on the cheap.

Would a crappy, not temperature-controllable (in terms of a dial or switch) work if I'm just going to use it for two switches?

I'm talking about something like this: http://www.amazon.com/60-Watts-Soldering-Iron-listed/dp/B0006NGZK0

RMA

I second this motion.  Sounds like more than just a bad solder job to me.

I would RMA, but I bought this $50 shipped from another GH member (who did specify that the L key was chattering), but I was hoping the problem would just go away with compressed air and a little time, but it hasn't

[catnipz0098]

I'm really confused. In order to only solder in ~50 switches, and not desolder, what do I need? Do I need the wick and a soldering iron or just an iron? And are there any cheaper irons? How about this? http://www.amazon.com/60-Watts-Soldering-Iron-listed/dp/B0006NGZK0/ref=zg_bs_13837391_1 Going to buy http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idproduct=19240.html

Also I will probally buy http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=360-670 http://www.amazon.com/SE-MZ101B-Helping-Hands-Magnifying/dp/B000RB38X8/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1383887070&sr=8-8&keywords=soldering+iron(its cheaper on amazon), the helping hands, which will help with lubing switches and soldering.

So just need to solder in switches, all the other tooling will be pre done. What's the cheapest things I need to do so? what other stuff besides the yihua do I need to buy?

What's wrong with the first soldering iron?

[BakaPhoenix]

I'm really confused. In order to only solder in ~50 switches, and not desolder, what do I need? Do I need the wick and a soldering iron or just an iron? And are there any cheaper irons? How about this? http://www.amazon.com/60-Watts-Soldering-Iron-listed/dp/B0006NGZK0/ref=zg_bs_13837391_1 Going to buy http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idproduct=19240.html

Also I will probally buy http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=360-670 http://www.amazon.com/SE-MZ101B-Helping-Hands-Magnifying/dp/B000RB38X8/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1383887070&sr=8-8&keywords=soldering+iron(its cheaper on amazon), the helping hands, which will help with lubing switches and soldering.

So just need to solder in switches, all the other tooling will be pre done. What's the cheapest things I need to do so? what other stuff besides the yihua do I need to buy?

What's wrong with the first soldering iron?

I think is that doesn't have a temp regolator, so it ca be too hot

[SpAmRaY]

I'm really confused. In order to only solder in ~50 switches, and not desolder, what do I need? Do I need the wick and a soldering iron or just an iron? And are there any cheaper irons? How about this? http://www.amazon.com/60-Watts-Soldering-Iron-listed/dp/B0006NGZK0/ref=zg_bs_13837391_1 Going to buy http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idproduct=19240.html

Also I will probally buy http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=360-670 http://www.amazon.com/SE-MZ101B-Helping-Hands-Magnifying/dp/B000RB38X8/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1383887070&sr=8-8&keywords=soldering+iron(its cheaper on amazon), the helping hands, which will help with lubing switches and soldering.

So just need to solder in switches, all the other tooling will be pre done. What's the cheapest things I need to do so? what other stuff besides the yihua do I need to buy?

Do you have solder??

[Dgsbllx]

FX888D arrived today thanks to this thread and special thanks to Photekq for recommending a UK seller of said unit. (Dancap Electronics, highly highly recommended)
Looks very nice indeed, everything is being soldered whether it needs it or not 

[Photekq]

FX888D arrived today thanks to this thread and special thanks to Photekq for recommending a UK seller of said unit. (Dancap Electronics, highly highly recommended)
Looks very nice indeed, everything is being soldered whether it needs it or not 

It's a quality unit indeed. I hope it serves you well and I'm glad you got the same top notch service from Dancap that I did.

[swill]

I RMAed my previous soldering station purchase because of the issues I posted early in this thread.  I put the credit towards the FX-888D as well.  Looking forward to my first project with this new soldering station. 

[Photekq]

Oh, was meaning to post this ages ago. For all newbies : watch this video in full before even touching an iron, it is by far the best instructional video on youtube and will tell you everything that you need to know.

You don't need to watch the entire series, only the first video is really applicable to keyboard soldering.

[Pacifist]

Oh, was meaning to post this ages ago. For all newbies : watch this video in full before even touching an iron, it is by far the best instructional video on youtube and will tell you everything that you need to know.

You don't need to watch the entire series, only the first video is really applicable to keyboard soldering.

Thanks 

How old is that video? Its very helpful. I see I need solder metal, flux, and a iron. For the solder metal and flux, where can I get a small amount? I don't need 30 dollars worth of it

[Pacifist]

I'm really confused. In order to only solder in ~50 switches, and not desolder, what do I need? Do I need the wick and a soldering iron or just an iron? And are there any cheaper irons? How about this? http://www.amazon.com/60-Watts-Soldering-Iron-listed/dp/B0006NGZK0/ref=zg_bs_13837391_1 Going to buy http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idproduct=19240.html

Also I will probally buy http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=360-670 http://www.amazon.com/SE-MZ101B-Helping-Hands-Magnifying/dp/B000RB38X8/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1383887070&sr=8-8&keywords=soldering+iron(its cheaper on amazon), the helping hands, which will help with lubing switches and soldering.

So just need to solder in switches, all the other tooling will be pre done. What's the cheapest things I need to do so? what other stuff besides the yihua do I need to buy?

Do you have solder??

Not yet. Its $30 shipped on hobby king, so haven't pulled the trigger yet on the yihua 936

[digi]

Oh, was meaning to post this ages ago. For all newbies : watch this video in full before even touching an iron, it is by far the best instructional video on youtube and will tell you everything that you need to know.

You don't need to watch the entire series, only the first video is really applicable to keyboard soldering.

Thanks 

How old is that video? Its very helpful. I see I need solder metal, flux, and a iron. For the solder metal and flux, where can I get a small amount? I don't need 30 dollars worth of it

Please correct me if I'm wrong but I believe you can just get rosin flux core solder, you don't need to separately flux each connection prior to soldering?

That video that Photekq linked was really good, I watched it just now.

[digi]

Yihua 936, the tip is 1.6.

I reckon that'll be fine. If you find that it takes a long time to melt the solder then maybe get a 2.4, which is what I used when I had a yihua.

Take a look at this :

t=18m35s

Photekq, which size tip are you using on your fx888d?

[Photekq]

Photekq, which size tip are you using on your fx888d?

I use 2.4mm chisel for switches. I have a 1.2mm which I hope to use for SMD/possibly LEDs, although I haven't tried it yet.

[hasu]

It's exactly my soldering setup. With 2.4mm chisel tip i can solder and desolder switches and through hole components quickly. And 1.2mm is good enough for 1608 SMD parts. I bought two dirt cheap dead stock very old Weller(Ungar) stations for these tips.
For QFP chip like ATMega32U4 I found Hakko C type tip do great job. I use cheap Hakko regulated hand iron 933 for this C.
Happy now in terms of hand soldering for keyboard things.

[LONGZILLA]

Thanks all around for anybody that contributed on this thread, just got done with my first soldering experiment... replaced the 3.5mm jack on one of my headphones with a Yihua 936. Only issue I ran into was getting the melting temperature right, either the station's temp setting is off or I was using the wrong tip but


Will probably give LEDs on my poker a try next

[stancato9]

Does anyone know what resistors I would need with these LEDs?

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/100pcs-2x3x4mm-Pink-Water-Clear-LED-Lamp-With-12V-Free-Resistors-234P-td-/390631308376?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5af370bc58&_uhb=1

[doub]

Does anyone know what resistors I would need with these LEDs?

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/100pcs-2x3x4mm-Pink-Water-Clear-LED-Lamp-With-12V-Free-Resistors-234P-td-/390631308376?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5af370bc58&_uhb=1

With a 5V power supply you'd need about 56 ohms or slightly higher depending on what you got. In general R_LED = (V_SUPPLY - V_LED) / I_LED.

[MJ45]

Does anyone know what resistors I would need with these LEDs?

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/100pcs-2x3x4mm-Pink-Water-Clear-LED-Lamp-With-12V-Free-Resistors-234P-td-/390631308376?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5af370bc58&_uhb=1

With a 5V power supply you'd need about 56 ohms or slightly higher depending on what you got. In general R_LED = (V_SUPPLY - V_LED) / I_LED.

Whats the Ohm's "Holmes"?

[dragonxx21]

Does the type of soldering flux used matter at all? I have a tube of this water soluble lead-free flux that came with some solder I bought and was wondering if it would be fine for use. I have checked to make sure that it is indeed for use on electronics and not plumbing or anything of that sort.

[damorgue]

Does the type of soldering flux used matter at all?

The more aggressive the flux the less you will have to use and the easier it will be to solder (better at removing oxides, make the solder flow through capillary effect etc). On the other hand, the more corrosive it is the more careful you will have to be about cleaning of excess flux. Some are not allowed in certain countries anymore along with leaded solder.

Edit: Flux

[MJ45]

Does the type of soldering flux used matter at all? I have a tube of this water soluble lead-free flux that came with some solder I bought and was wondering if it would be fine for use. I have checked to make sure that it is indeed for use on electronics and not plumbing or anything of that sort.

It is best to use 63/37 leaded solder and RA flux for easier use. But should cleaned with good flux remover or alcohol when finished.

[swill]

Does the type of soldering flux used matter at all? I have a tube of this water soluble lead-free flux that came with some solder I bought and was wondering if it would be fine for use. I have checked to make sure that it is indeed for use on electronics and not plumbing or anything of that sort.

It is best to use 63/37 leaded solder and RA flux for easier use. But should cleaned with good flux remover or alcohol when finished.

A couple reasons why 63/37 is recommended (to my knowledge.  please correct me if i am wrong)
- It has the lowest melting point, so you don't have to heat up the pcb too much.
- Its 'wetting' temperature range is the narrowest, so you are less likely to mess up your solder job if you are not careful. [ref]
- The solder recommended has a rosin core, so you don't have to worry about flux at all.  Other than cleanup...

In contrast, a lead free solder is much harder to work with because it requires a much higher temperature and has a larger wet temperature range.

[dragonxx21]

I'm sorry. RA Flux?

[swill]

I'm sorry. RA Flux?

Traditional rosin fluxes - available in non-activated (R), mildly activated (RMA) and activated (RA) formulations. RA and RMA fluxes contain rosin combined with an activating agent, typically an acid, which increases the wettability of metals to which it is applied by removing existing oxides. The residue resulting from the use of RA flux is corrosive and must be cleaned. RMA flux is formulated to result in a residue which is not significantly corrosive, with cleaning being preferred but optional. [ref]

It has been suggested elsewhere that acidic fluxes should be avoided on PCBs, but as long as you clean it well after, you should be fine.

[dragonxx21]

I'm looking to figure out what kind of stuff I'd need for SMD work. I'm looking at some tweezers, kim wipes, flux (probably a pen) and some isopropyl alcohol and brushes for applying the alcohol. Any suggestions? I'm trying to figure out what kind of kester flux pen I would need.

[Melvang]

For the record the solder that they use on the Das keyboards is freakin NASTY to desolder.  I had to clean my tip at least every 4 switches.  I got it all out though after I flowed a touch of lead solder into the joint.

[Beca]

I'm planning to swap two defective switches and ergo-clear mod a board. Would the Radioshack desoldering iron w/ pump be better than a soldering wick in terms of removing the solder more cleanly and quickly?

What I'm planning to buy: a Yihua 936, some solder (do I have to get Kester or is any solder with the same thickness okay?), and either the desoldering iron or wick.

[HotKillerZzz]

we should add in some advice and tips into this thread. like how to solve a burnt or 'dissappeared' soldering pad etc.

[SpAmRaY]

we should add in some advice and tips into this thread. like how to solve a burnt or 'dissappeared' soldering pad etc.

I'm sure it's been discussed, just have to dig and find it

one example

http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=42824.msg1009419#msg1009419

[Photekq]

[Parak]

Ah yes, back in the good ol days when tracks were uncovered and had manly widths This is quite a bit trickier these days, but still doable, at least as far as track repair goes. All of pace how to videos are of critical watching importance for soldering enthusiasts, btw. Still very relevant some 30 or so years later.

[dragonxx21]

Do you guys think kimwipes and specific flux are necessary for SMD soldering, specifically microcontrollers?

Edit: I do have flux but don't know if it'd be okay for SMD soldering. For reference it's the same flux that comes with: http://www.ebay.com/itm/SOLDER-silver-bearing-lead-free-FLUX-specialty-Kit-jewelry-BERNZOMATIC-SSWS100-/130937937883

[MJ45]

Do you guys think kimwipes and specific flux are necessary for SMD soldering, specifically microcontrollers?

Edit: I do have flux but don't know if it'd be okay for SMD soldering. For reference it's the same flux that comes with: http://www.ebay.com/itm/SOLDER-silver-bearing-lead-free-FLUX-specialty-Kit-jewelry-BERNZOMATIC-SSWS100-/130937937883

I would not use what you linked, go back and read this thread for suggested solders & fluxes.

[LONGZILLA]

Is this an sufficient multimeter for simple soldering? http://www.sears.com/craftsman-cm-multimeter/p-03482007000P?sid=IAx20050830x000545&aff=Y&PID=1225267&AID=11042411 Or is it overkill?

[BlueBär]

So Christmas is coming and it's time for me to get some decent soldering equipment. This is my current list:
-Weller WHS40
-Edsyn Sodapullt
-63/37 Solder from ebay
-soldering flux
-one of those dry cleaners
-DIY fume absorber

The Weller is the cheapest non no-name iron I could find and costs about 60€, I saw a Yihua on ebay that would cost me 40€, so this should be a good choice, right?
I cannot find any 63/37 solder apart from some on ebay, just 60/40 and solder with copper or silver.
For that DIY fume absorber I will probably power a case fan via USB (5V is a bit low but might be enough).

Anything I forgot?

[Melvang]

So Christmas is coming and it's time for me to get some decent soldering equipment. This is my current list:
-Weller WHS40
-Edsyn Sodapullt
-63/37 Solder from ebay
-soldering flux
-one of those dry cleaners
-DIY fume absorber

The Weller is the cheapest non no-name iron I could find and costs about 60€, I saw a Yihua on ebay that would cost me 40€, so this should be a good choice, right?
I cannot find any 63/37 solder apart from some on ebay, just 60/40 and solder with copper or silver.
For that DIY fume absorber I will probably power a case fan via USB (5V is a bit low but might be enough).

Anything I forgot?

This for the fan.  My wife has one on her desk at work and loves it.  For USB powered they do move a quite a bit of air.

[BlueBär]

Thanks for the recommendation!

[Dreamre]

So Christmas is coming and it's time for me to get some decent soldering equipment. This is my current list:
-Weller WHS40
-Edsyn Sodapullt
-63/37 Solder from ebay
-soldering flux
-one of those dry cleaners
-DIY fume absorber

The Weller is the cheapest non no-name iron I could find and costs about 60€, I saw a Yihua on ebay that would cost me 40€, so this should be a good choice, right?
I cannot find any 63/37 solder apart from some on ebay, just 60/40 and solder with copper or silver.
For that DIY fume absorber I will probably power a case fan via USB (5V is a bit low but might be enough).

Anything I forgot?

This for the fan.  My wife has one on her desk at work and loves it.  For USB powered they do move a quite a bit of air.

Great recommendation! However, not many places sell this .

[Pacifist]

How important is flux?

[SpAmRaY]

How important is flux?

Depends on application.

[swill]

How important is flux?

Very important.  It basically cleans the surfaces to be bonded and helps the solder flow into the joint.  Without it you will have impurities between your connection points and you will not have clean solder joints.

I would recommend always using it...

[mojo3120]

How important is flux?

Most solders contain a small "core" of flux, built into the solder wire itself. When you put it on the iron, the smoke you see is actually the flux burning off. You can usually get by fine with just the flux in the core, but adding additional flux may make life easier. The flux pens are really nice and convenient (I use techspray or kester).

Make sure not to use any type of acid flux on electronics.....that's for plumbing applications.

[yasuo]

how to make more sticky desoldering tool?
i often fail wheh desoldering switches

[swill]

Got sick of my cheap USB hub shorting out and decided to take it apart and fix it.  It was a mess in there.  Some of the worst soldering I have ever seen.  Also, what engineer thinks it would be a good idea to surface mount an unsupported cable connection to a PCB?  At least through hole mount that sh!t...

I have to say that I am loving the Hakko FX-888D though.  That thing is a dream to work with.  Apparently I need a flux pen when working with super tiny pads cause wetting is a PITA otherwise.  I had to be really careful because the pads were so close together and without a flux pen, i had to get creative.  Once I started tinning the wire tip with .8mm rosin core 63/37 to get some flux transfer things started to get easier.  I was getting a lot better by the end, but the start was pretty frustrating.  Luckily half of it was through hole soldering which is much easier than SMD soldering.

You may notice my fake 3rd hand.  It worked alright considering it was just stuff I had on hand.  I will have to make something better before I do a full keyboard.  My super ghetto electrical tape 'case' should keep everything in one piece. 

Here are some pictures.

[MJ45]

Got sick of my cheap USB hub shorting out and decided to take it apart and fix it.  It was a mess in there.  Some of the worst soldering I have ever seen.  Also, what engineer thinks it would be a good idea to surface mount an unsupported cable connection to a PCB?  At least through hole mount that sh!t...

I have to say that I am loving the Hakko FX-888D though.  That thing is a dream to work with.  Apparently I need a flux pen when working with super tiny pads cause wetting is a PITA otherwise.  I had to be really careful because the pads were so close together and without a flux pen, i had to get creative.  Once I started tinning the wire tip with .8mm rosin core 63/37 to get some flux transfer things started to get easier.  I was getting a lot better by the end, but the start was pretty frustrating.  Luckily half of it was through hole soldering which is much easier than SMD soldering.

You may notice my fake 3rd hand.  It worked alright considering it was just stuff I had on hand.  I will have to make something better before I do a full keyboard.  My super ghetto electrical tape 'case' should keep everything in one piece. 

Here are some pictures.
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link) (Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)

Hey nice work, with the Hakko you can solder like PRO, wait till you build a keyboard you'll love it even more.

[dragonxx21]

so I bought one of these kester 951 flux pens and it's said to be no-clean. That being said, should I still clean after usage or is it really not necessary?
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/180889483171?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

[swill]

so I bought one of these kester 951 flux pens and it's said to be no-clean. That being said, should I still clean after usage or is it really not necessary?
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/180889483171?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

IMO it is always a good idea to clean up flux even if it is not acidic and may not damage the pcb.  Maybe others have more experience with no-clean flux.