[GB] TMK Alps64 - 60% PCB for Alps

[deductivemonkee]

Nice.
Thanks, Deductivemonkee.

No problem. I got my alps64 to wake my PC on my x58 system. Using actionmap fixed it somehow.

[Applet]

Is round 7 still going? If not I'm in for rount 8

[Jumie]

Is round 7 still going? If not I'm in for rount 8

I think so, just email hasu

[hasu]

PCBs(from batch.1) paid as of now(Tue Oct 11 07:12:51 UTC 2016) were shipped today. Participants will  get tracking number from Japan Post in 48 hours, if not email me.

Thanks.

[Jumie]

got my tracking number.. thanks hasu

[jorgenslee]

Hi Hasu,

Just curious if it is possible to cut/remove the 2 1.5u in bottom to achieve HHKB layout?  I have a case but it requires custom pcb  with that area cutoff.

[hasu]

No, you can't. Row 2 and 3 will be killed probably.

You have to patch them at least.

Sent from my Nexus 5X

[XMIT]

Thanks hasu! I finally completed my build, looks and works great! I chopped an AEK II for this one and used its caps and key switches.

[Reckless5040]

Im interested in one for sure. If any batch 2 are still available.

[Jumie]

Thanks hasu! I finally completed my build, looks and works great! I chopped an AEK II for this one and used its caps and key switches.
(Attachment Link)

what plate did u use? looks great..

[Applet]

Got my PCB today, looks good, thanks! It's going to replace my butchered rev A PCB soon

[duynguyenle]

Thanks hasu! I finally completed my build, looks and works great! I chopped an AEK II for this one and used its caps and key switches.
(Attachment Link)

What case is that?

[MandrewDavis]

Thanks hasu! I finally completed my build, looks and works great! I chopped an AEK II for this one and used its caps and key switches.
(Attachment Link)

What case is that?

Looks to be this case from AliExpress. I have one and it looks nice with the blue PCB of the older revisions.

[hasu]

Hi all,
All PCBs from batch.1 were shipped, if you made payment till Oct 12 you should have already tracking number. If not let me know.

PCBs from batch.2 are still available and you can order it.

Im interested in one for sure. If any batch 2 are still available.

[Hypersphere]

@Hasu: Batch 2 is for the PCB only? Do you also supply plates? If you do not supply plates, do you have suggestions for suppliers or suggestions of where to download templates to have plates made? Thank you!

[Hybrid]

@Hasu: Batch 2 is for the PCB only? Do you also supply plates? If you do not supply plates, do you have suggestions for suppliers or suggestions of where to download templates to have plates made? Thank you!

PCB and Diodes only. Use the Open Source Alps 60% plate. (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=82916.0)

Seems you can have the plate made for about $55-60, or use the AEKII plate and just cut it down to size.

[Scarpia]

My plate arrived from Lasergist today, so I finally got to build my Alps64 today. Thanks to hasu for an impeccable product! 









Gallery / build log: http://imgur.com/a/6QdOG

[hasu]

Hi Hypersphere,
PCB only.
My AEK FR4(PCB) plates were not so popular and I decided not to resotck them. I'll have canceled plate from last group buy, perhaps.

As people say,
To get stainless steel plate you can use lasergist.com with plate design file published here. You will have to contact them to get 1.2mm thick material option.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=82916.0

(I'll update first post to add this info.)

[Scarpia]

@Hasu: Batch 2 is for the PCB only? Do you also supply plates? If you do not supply plates, do you have suggestions for suppliers or suggestions of where to download templates to have plates made? Thank you!

PCB and Diodes only. Use the Open Source Alps 60% plate. (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=82916.0)

Seems you can have the plate made for about $55-60, or use the AEKII plate and just cut it down to size.

I had mine cut by Lasergist.com using the AEK file from that thread (and asking for 1.2mm instead of 1.5mm as the thread suggests). I paid $49.50 shipped for it, and you can see the result here

[axtran]

Do you have pictures of green PCBs made in the latest run? Any changes?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[hasu]

Do you have pictures of green PCBs made in the latest run? Any changes?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

First post has pic of the green PCB.
Footprint of USB connector was changed a bit and silk prints were fixed from the last revision. Not changed virtually.

[gogusrl]

My pcb got here and it came by DHL. Now those pieces of #@#$ want almost another 50$ in taxes and customs charges. Pissed does not describe how I'm feeling at the moment.

I'm having trouble understanding how the hell my package ended up in DHL's hands when Hasu sent it by Japan Mail.

Sorry for venting here but I didn't know where else to go.

[axtran]

My pcb got here and it came by DHL. Now those pieces of #@#$ want almost another 50$ in taxes and customs charges. Pissed does not describe how I'm feeling at the moment.

I'm having trouble understanding how the hell my package ended up in DHL's hands when Hasu sent it by Japan Mail.

Sorry for venting here but I didn't know where else to go.

Is it how your country handles mail routing? Couldn't tell you. Any way to petition?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[tjweir]

Do I *need* a plate, or is it recommended?

I ask out of ignorance.

Thanks!

[nickheller]

Do I *need* a plate, or is it recommended?

I ask out of ignorance.

Thanks!

You need a plate

[tjweir]

Do I *need* a plate, or is it recommended?

I ask out of ignorance.

Thanks!

You need a plate

Thanks, time to get cutting then. 

Cheers.

[phoible]

I had mine cut by Lasergist.com using the AEK file from that thread (and asking for 1.2mm instead of 1.5mm as the thread suggests). I paid $49.50 shipped for it, and you can see the result here

Is there a good reason to go with 1.2mm rather than 1.0mm? I built my first AEK64 with a 1.0mm plate, and it seems to have turned out fine (it has become my default keyboard at work). Building another one once Batch 2, ships, and need to order a plate.

[Quakemz]

Paid my invoice for two. Thanks, Hasu! Can't wait to put all these SKCM Browns to use. 

[Jumie]

Paid my invoice for two. Thanks, Hasu! Can't wait to put all these SKCM Browns to use. 

wanna sell some to me?

[graefeln]

Not sure what I am going to do with it, but it's about time I tried Alps... though I probably won't put anything together until after Christmas. Still, that gives me plenty of time to decide on (and hopefully find) switches, caps, a case and plate.

[hasu]

I had mine cut by Lasergist.com using the AEK file from that thread (and asking for 1.2mm instead of 1.5mm as the thread suggests). I paid $49.50 shipped for it, and you can see the result here

Is there a good reason to go with 1.2mm rather than 1.0mm? I built my first AEK64 with a 1.0mm plate, and it seems to have turned out fine (it has become my default keyboard at work). Building another one once Batch 2, ships, and need to order a plate.

I think there are no actual difference but hey... apparently some people prefer thick and heavy around here

One datasheet says "THE MOUNTING PANEL TO BE 1.0mm TO 1.2mm IN THICKNESS" and another just specifies "t1.2",  btw.
https://deskthority.net/w/images/6/68/Forward_Electronics_--_spec_--_SKBMFA.pdf
https://deskthority.net/w/images/3/32/Alps_Electric_--_spec_--_5454_31.pdf

[MandrewDavis]

I had mine cut by Lasergist.com using the AEK file from that thread (and asking for 1.2mm instead of 1.5mm as the thread suggests). I paid $49.50 shipped for it, and you can see the result here

Is there a good reason to go with 1.2mm rather than 1.0mm? I built my first AEK64 with a 1.0mm plate, and it seems to have turned out fine (it has become my default keyboard at work). Building another one once Batch 2, ships, and need to order a plate.

I think there are no actual difference but hey... apparently some people prefer thick and heavy around here

One datasheet says "THE MOUNTING PANEL TO BE 1.0mm TO 1.2mm IN THICKNESS" and another just specifies "t1.2",  btw.
https://deskthority.net/w/images/6/68/Forward_Electronics_--_spec_--_SKBMFA.pdf
https://deskthority.net/w/images/3/32/Alps_Electric_--_spec_--_5454_31.pdf

The plate keeps the switches alighted, but ultimately, 60% keyboards are mounted to the case only by the PCB and standoffs. The only substantial difference I can really think of would be the sound.

[Jumie]

Flashing the hex file using flip, I always got prompt "cannot write to usb". Do I need to use zadig first?

[hasu]

Reinstalling driver doesn't help?
http://imgur.com/a/bnwzy

I for one never used zadig yet but I think it works.

[Jumie]

Reinstalling driver doesn't help?
http://imgur.com/a/bnwzy

I for one never used zadig yet but I think it works.

Couldn't find atm32u2 under 'other device' in Device Manager.

[hasu]

Reinstalling driver doesn't help?
http://imgur.com/a/bnwzy

I for one never used zadig yet but I think it works.

Couldn't find atm32u2 under 'other device' in Device Manager.

You will find under 'Libusb-Win32 Devices' if driver is installed and working somehow.

Did you try Zadig? I hope it works for you.

[Jumie]

Reinstalling driver doesn't help?
http://imgur.com/a/bnwzy

I for one never used zadig yet but I think it works.

Couldn't find atm32u2 under 'other device' in Device Manager.

You will find under 'Libusb-Win32 Devices' if driver is installed and working somehow.

Did you try Zadig? I hope it works for you.

Tried Zadig, now the original firmware has gone. atmel device appear on device manager but still cannot write to usb in Flip.

Edit: replug the pcb and it works like a charm.. I don't know how it happen tho. 

[hasu]

Reinstalling driver doesn't help?
http://imgur.com/a/bnwzy

I for one never used zadig yet but I think it works.

Couldn't find atm32u2 under 'other device' in Device Manager.

You will find under 'Libusb-Win32 Devices' if driver is installed and working somehow.

Did you try Zadig? I hope it works for you.

Tried Zadig, now the original firmware has gone. atmel device appear on device manager but still cannot write to usb in Flip.

No error message? Posting screenshots of device manager and FLIP would be helpful.
And check flash procedure again with 'Program Controller' section in first post.

[hasu]

Batch.2 status update:
I missed Fedex delivery of PCBs from China yesterday but I'll have them today then start assembly this week end. Shipping will happen on next week hopefully.

You can sitll get Alps64 PCB from Batch.2 if payment is done till Oct 30th in JST.

Thanks!

[hasu]

All PCBs ordered from batch.2 were shipped today. You will receive an email with tracking number from Japan Post in a day,  let me know if not.

Leftovers are still available and can be shipped immedately in a few days. Price is revised for leftovers.

Thanks.

[XMIT]

So sorry for the delayed response! I built my board using a generic GH60 case that I purchased here:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/182211470719

With the AEK II plate it was tricky to get the screw locations right. I use three screws: left of Tab, right of \|, and toward the right edge of the Space bar. I drilled holes in the plate, and bolt the PCB to the case.

I've got this thread open now as I'm in the process of converting Cream Damped Alps to Creamsicle Alps - that means swapping in the springs and tactile leaves from donor Orange Alps switches. Tedious, but, so worth it. This completely changes the character of the switch! The only better setup I can imagine, would be a hybrid of Cream and Brown. I really, really like Orange, and this mod keeps the same character but makes them quieter. The loud Clack becomes a refined Thock. Fantastic setup.

Four switches down, 56 to go. I'll be here for a little while...

[XMIT]

Alright well, switching out the springs and leaves is done.

I modify what I said a little earlier. As a board I think it does feel better but only by a little bit.

The real magic of Orange Alps (and Blue Alps) is in the tall switch plate. This is part of what helps the switch to feel so solid: a rigid, no-flex, reinforced connection between the switch contacts and the shell of the switch.

As a proof of concept, I made one more complex hybrid switch. The spring, leaf, and switch plate are from an Orange switch. The top shell, bottom shell, and slider are from a Cream Damped switch. In order to get the tall Orange switch plate to fit in the bottom shell from the Cream Damped switch I had to snip two plastic pegs which are designed to support a short switch plate. The Cream Damped lower shell has landing pads for downstroke damping; it is easier to remove material than to add it.

The proof of concept switch is everything I could hope for from an Orange and Cream Damped hybrid. But, making it is really labor intensive since it involves swapping a switch plate. So I'll probably leave my board as is for now, unless I have some reason to de-solder all the switches *again*.

Thanks again to hasu for bringing this little PCB to production. The board I've made from it is one of my favorites, and my default (non-Hall effect, non-backlit) travel keyboard.

[Laser]

@XMIT (since you seem to know your Alps) - I have a sufficient number of Blue Alps for a 60% custom build, but I'd rather do "something" and end up with tactile switches instead of clicky (while keeping the quality, of course). What would you recommend?

I also have enough White and Black Alps (from a Dell 102). Would it be ok to take the non-clicky switch plates (is that the term) from the Blacks, and move it into the  Blues?

[Applet]

I modify what I said a little earlier. As a board I think it does feel better but only by a little bit.

Great insight XMIT, thanks for sharing, I have been planning to do something similar for a while (I WAS thinking damped sliders in orange housings). I think I'll go all in and translplant the orange switch plates as well into the cream housings. I'm also considering taking the rubber dampers from a Matias Quiet Click keyboard I have, do you think it is worth it? I'm a bit worried that the dampers from the creams will dry up.

[Hypersphere]

Here is my latest hybrid, the "MatiaBlue" switch:



This is a KBP V60MTS-C (V60 with Matias Click switches) with sliders, return springs, and click leaves transplanted from SKCM blue Alps switches.

These sound and feel more like blue Alps than Matias. The hybrid switches are lighter and quieter than Matias Click switches.

For the spacebar, I used a slider from a Matias Quiet switch. This dramatically quietens the spacebar.

[CommonCurt]

Here is my latest hybrid, the "MatiaBlue" switch:

(Attachment Link)

This is a KBP V60MTS-C (V60 with Matias Click switches) with sliders, return springs, and click leaves transplanted from SKCM blue Alps switches.

These sound and feel more like blue Alps than Matias. The hybrid switches are lighter and quieter than Matias Click switches.

For the spacebar, I used a slider from a Matias Quiet switch. This dramatically quietens the spacebar.

Interesting.  They look pretty cool

[Hypersphere]

For more information on the "MatiaBlue" hybrid Matias/Blue Alps switch, see the pics and video at either of the following links:

https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=85664.msg2298435#msg2298435

https://deskthority.net/keyboards-f2/matias-switches-t14985.html#p336623

[gnmar2723]

Just got mine in the mail today! Can't wait to finally finish my AEK 60% board that has been in the works for almost half a year  Kinda sad that I didn't get one of the iconic blue pcb's but hey, no one will see it anyways.

[tinyprawn]

Got my PCB today! I am going to test it and then get soldering. I can do the Diodes now but my plate isn't in so I have to wait on the switches.

[tinyprawn]

Success! Gonna build it when the Lasergist board arrives or get sick of waiting and slice up my disassembled AEK2 keyboard's plate.