Author Topic: 3d printed 65% with hot swap, LCD and color changing trim  (Read 8046 times)

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Offline Leslieann

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3d printed 65% with hot swap, LCD and color changing trim
« on: Fri, 30 October 2020, 08:19:32 »
Note:
The hot swap system itself works fantastic but the wiring system is overly complicated and tedious, moreso than even a normal hand wired board.

This is now complete or as complete as it will ever be but I'm completely burnt out and is about as done as it will get.
I got sick as it was coming to an end and some files are lost (firmware stuff, not printed parts) and it just burned me out, to be fair a lot of this was always just an experiment, I never planned on using this for much on my own anyhow so there's not a lot of drive to really make it easy to replicate which would take quite a lot more work. Everything is there if you want to remix and use this as the basis of your own, but I do NOT recommend building an exact copy of this.

Keyboard
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4671120

Socket/tester
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4791698


----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
This is my latest project,
This is still a work in progress but I plan on releasing the files once it's done (early next week maybe?)

Here is the current form but I'd like to hear your thoughts and ideas, it may not change much bit I'd like to hear them.
254827-0

Features:
Very low profile, the body flat and extremely thin (11mm to top of plate, less than 1/2in).
Easy to print, vertical walls means no stairstepping and it needs only a little support under the stabs while printing.
Kailh hot swap, despite hand wiring the sockets are locked in place yet easily replaced if they go bad.
PCB and plate mount switch compatible (no more trimmed legs!)
LCD to display layer and hotkeys
Teensy 2.0 with QMK so it's programmable.
Port is a Micro B or Type C depending on choice of breakout board (Adafruit).
Trim is replaceable, I have two types, flat/flush and pencil grooved. I may also backlight this but I'm not sure there's enough pins for RGB.

Still to be done:

I should have a final test print done this weekend, my system was tied up for Halloween.
Firmware, it will be on QMK. - in progress
Wire tracks.
Foot - I have an older one to work from, but this is easy to do last minute. It will most likely be trapezoidal.

With 30% infill this thing is STIFF, the whole board should be about as stiff or better than most off-the-shelf keyboards with a metal plate. Looks like about 40-50 hours print time and half kilo of plastic. The plastic dampens a LOT of the noise. Tests were done in PLA but I plan on doing mine in PETG which will probably dampen noise better but be a little less stiff, that could be compensated for with more infill. Keep in mind you need a good size printer to print it unless you break it into parts, it's 320mm wide. Trying to do ABS would be a nightmare due to the size, I wouldn't recommend it.


Earlier test samples
I've since thickened the top area to fit the Teensy and thin the chassis, and I changed the lower right keys to 1.25, all reflected in the one further up. Up till this point I was working off other people's patterns but I rebuilt it from scratch after this.
Pink is the flat trim, Marble is the pencil groove. These were just what I had handy.
254829-1
254833-2


Here's an even older version
While I loved the size and shape I didn't care for the styling. It was also going to be quite a bit thicker and at a slant, making it difficult to print without stair-stepping.
The silver is paint added to test the color swap trim idea and try and like the styling.
254831-3
« Last Edit: Fri, 12 March 2021, 08:41:59 by Leslieann »
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Offline Alga

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Re: 3d printed 65% with hot swap, LCD and color changing trim
« Reply #1 on: Fri, 30 October 2020, 09:59:48 »
Looks interesting. I love everything DIY. You can alwais sand it down to remove the steps if you slant it.




Offline nevin

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Re: 3d printed 65% with hot swap, LCD and color changing trim
« Reply #2 on: Fri, 30 October 2020, 12:06:12 »
hotswap 3d printed handwire.... nice. i know a bunch have been looking for something similar. i'm sure your files will get turned into all kinds of other form factors.
Keeb.io Viterbi, Apple m0110, Apple m0120, Apple m0110a, Apple 658-4081, Apple M1242, Apple AEK II, MK96, GH60/Pure, Cherry g84-4100, Adesso AKP-220B, Magicforce 68

Offline Leslieann

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Re: 3d printed 65% with hot swap, LCD and color changing trim
« Reply #3 on: Tue, 10 November 2020, 00:45:08 »
Update:
Well I blew that timeline, between trying to last minute rush Halloween stuff I ran out of time.


Where it stands...
Well I once again tried taking the normal way out using someone else's parts and found out they completely botched things, everything was off by several degrees. I tried to use them as a pattern and it just deteriorated quickly and became easier to just redesign it myself like I should have from the start. There's been so little I've downloaded that actually worked as expected so I should have known.  Anyhow, I found the Kailh templates (not blueprints but close) and redesigned the socket socket from scratch. I had 10 revisions to the old one and still was bad, the new one worked so well the first try I had to double check to see if it really was that good.

What's left:
Test prints to test fit everything other than the switches.
firmware.
I also need to see if I can fit RGB into this, it's getting crowded and if so, where.  I certainly want to light the trim and I'm thinking underglow.

Oh, something I forgot to mention, 5 pin PCB and 3 pin plate mount switch compatible, no more clipping legs off.
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Offline nevin

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Re: 3d printed 65% with hot swap, LCD and color changing trim
« Reply #4 on: Tue, 10 November 2020, 08:08:16 »
oh, my.
at least you've got something that you can work with now.

you could do some interesting stuff with the underglow being 3d printed.
Keeb.io Viterbi, Apple m0110, Apple m0120, Apple m0110a, Apple 658-4081, Apple M1242, Apple AEK II, MK96, GH60/Pure, Cherry g84-4100, Adesso AKP-220B, Magicforce 68

Offline Leslieann

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Re: 3d printed 65% with hot swap, LCD and color changing trim
« Reply #5 on: Sat, 21 November 2020, 22:05:44 »
This is taking a lot longer than expected.

Current status:
I'm happy with the design, and all parts and segments have been tested and work great. Unfortunately as a whole it presents some issues, I can make it work for me but making it work for others is much more of a challenge, I don't want to make something that just wastes people time and plastic.

You may think your printer is nice and perfectly square, but when you only have a 0.2mm (0.0080in) tolerance across 300mm (12in), even 0.11mm (0.0040in) off means things won't fit if one is printed right side up and another is printed upside down (it creates double the difference), which is how this needs to be printed. So I'm having to design a tool to make sure this is as accurate as possible but I'm also doing some work to try and make sure it's less of an issue for others. CoreXY is particularly problematic for this as belt tension alone alters it.

With the early design once it reached a certain point it does an absolute ton of retraction and spends a lot of time retracted, it was the perfect scenario if you wanted to create heat creep (heat going well up past the heat break) which ends up jamming the hot end. I adjusted some temps and worked around most of it but I eventually decided a redesign of that section was in order. it's still going to have a lot of retraction but it will have more or a break between giving time to expel heat from the heat sink.

For the time being all RGB has been removed from the design, I had it in place for the trim but I'm already trying to fit 10 pounds of stuff into an 5 pound sack. Adding it to the foot for underglow is simple but all of that can wait. I just want to get the basic keyboard working first considering the last two issues.
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Offline Leslieann

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Re: 3d printed 65% with hot swap, LCD and color changing trim
« Reply #6 on: Wed, 25 November 2020, 00:33:34 »
Problems have been dealt with, how well has yet to be seen.
I added some to the pegs, that helped with the retraction issues (my bowden tube was also about dead) and I gave it more room for tolerance. I also I think I have a solution to any skew issues on top of that. Final prints are in progress (base in black is done), minor changes still may come as I have yet to actually wire this but I planned for that and left lots of channels to run wires through. Once I have it actually working I will post files.


Current design:
Bottom to top of plate is 11.6mm, it's extremely low profile. My GMMK is over 1mm thicker and it's pretty slim.
Total height without feet is 17.6mm
It uses a sloped back to reduce the top frame but it's steep enough that stairstepping at 1.2mm layer height (green) was still pretty smooth, I'm doing mine at 0.1mm.
I have a riser/foot designed, just not printed yet, I may make two because mine is tall but some dislike that, but of course anyone can mod them once posted. Common aluminum cone ones will also also fit (uses an M5 bolt). I'll have more details as I get closer to being finished. Much of this is just for people to watch and give input as it progresses.


Progress photos:
(green is old PLA I was using to test, black is PETG and a final product, pre-cleanup)
256483-0
256485-1
256487-2
256489-3
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Offline nevin

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Re: 3d printed 65% with hot swap, LCD and color changing trim
« Reply #7 on: Wed, 25 November 2020, 05:14:59 »
super clean, love how most components are just friction fit, smart. the wire channels are nice, i'm sure, giving it a more solid feel/sound, not being hollow/open.

is this the 1st you've tried a different filament? do you like it better?

how thick is your switchplate? i'm just curious with it being 3d printed.
Keeb.io Viterbi, Apple m0110, Apple m0120, Apple m0110a, Apple 658-4081, Apple M1242, Apple AEK II, MK96, GH60/Pure, Cherry g84-4100, Adesso AKP-220B, Magicforce 68

Offline Leslieann

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Re: 3d printed 65% with hot swap, LCD and color changing trim
« Reply #8 on: Wed, 25 November 2020, 23:57:51 »
Thanks.

I've been doing 3d printing for over 7 years, so yeah I've played with a few other materials, about the only thing I haven't worked with on FDM is Polycarbonate and PEEK. I can do it, I just haven't had a need. I work a lot with big printers and certain filaments (ABS in particular) don't work well at larger scale and large scale doesn't play well with heated beds either. I'm using PET on this because it's less dense so I hope it will dampen noise better and it should last longer. It also has a very different feel than PLA, PLA feels like rough plastic, this almost feels waxy.

Top plate - 320.5 x 125.8 x 11mm
     5mm from the bottom to the switch surface, 6mm walls above that.
"PCB" - 304.9 x 94.75 x 4.6mm  (nestles entirely into the base)
Base - 320.5 x 125.8 x 6.6mm
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Offline Leslieann

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Re: 3d printed 65% with hot swap, LCD and color changing trim
« Reply #9 on: Tue, 01 December 2020, 02:28:12 »
So I have a nasty cold (not Covid) and this keyboard has turned into a nightmare, it's not an easy project by any means.

I have the files ready to share in it's current state, but Thingiverse is making wait 24 hours and it's too many files t post here.

Current status:
Firmware is done
other than a working LCD, the documentation for that is terrible so it's slow going.
It's even RGB ready, yes there's enough pins(!) but i have not put any in yet.
I may have it reversed on column pinout (oops, had the controller reversed in my head when doing it), I'll find out when I add the last bits of wiring. I just need to connect rows and columns to the Teensy at this point all other wiring is done. That's an easy fix as it's so modular.

Needs fixing:
Flatter bottom, the upturn makes it difficult for PETG.
Add more room for USB jumper from Teensy, I hot knifed some room and trimmed down a connector.
Maybe fix the LCD printing issue for PETG, support can rip off the overhanging trim. PLA is fine and it's not a major issue so I may leave it.
More perimeter screws (more stiffness)
Make shorter foot.
Add RGB since it will work.

256816-0
256818-1
« Last Edit: Tue, 01 December 2020, 02:29:53 by Leslieann »
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Offline nevin

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  • Location: US
Re: 3d printed 65% with hot swap, LCD and color changing trim
« Reply #10 on: Wed, 02 December 2020, 08:27:30 »
looks good. like how you put the diodes/rows above the switch instead of through the middle of the switch. haven't seen it  done that way before. :thumb:
Keeb.io Viterbi, Apple m0110, Apple m0120, Apple m0110a, Apple 658-4081, Apple M1242, Apple AEK II, MK96, GH60/Pure, Cherry g84-4100, Adesso AKP-220B, Magicforce 68

Offline Leslieann

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Re: 3d printed 65% with hot swap, LCD and color changing trim
« Reply #11 on: Wed, 02 December 2020, 20:37:41 »
looks good. like how you put the diodes/rows above the switch instead of through the middle of the switch. haven't seen it  done that way before. :thumb:
Thanks,
That's necessary because of the hot swap needing to be supported from below, by the time you allow for 5 pins and the hot swaps, there's just very little room left to work with.
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Offline Leslieann

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Re: 3d printed 65% with hot swap, LCD and color changing trim
« Reply #12 on: Thu, 03 December 2020, 23:13:29 »
Well i was going to post this but had a major breakthrough so everything is being tweaked one last bit but everything is now working, LCD, RGB.. Everything works.

Side note...
Never trust a Chinese seller when they say 3-5volts... it's 3.3volts.
That's why the LCD wasn't working, I only figured it out after nearly burning my hand on it.
« Last Edit: Thu, 03 December 2020, 23:19:29 by Leslieann »
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Offline nevin

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Re: 3d printed 65% with hot swap, LCD and color changing trim
« Reply #13 on: Fri, 04 December 2020, 05:58:01 »
ouch. surprised it didn't cook it.

glad you got it figured out. can't wait to see pics & maybe a little demo vid for sound? (3d shells can sound really good/deep).
Keeb.io Viterbi, Apple m0110, Apple m0120, Apple m0110a, Apple 658-4081, Apple M1242, Apple AEK II, MK96, GH60/Pure, Cherry g84-4100, Adesso AKP-220B, Magicforce 68

Offline fpazos

  • Posts: 138
Re: 3d printed 65% with hot swap, LCD and color changing trim
« Reply #14 on: Fri, 04 December 2020, 12:03:51 »
That's very intersting. I'm also planning to create a keyboard using 3d print for everything, I'll start with a numpad, later an ergo keyboard with standard keys, and maybe in a distant future, also create a webapp for everyone who wants to print it's own crazy layout / keyboard just inputing the KLE layout and some configuration parameters. Would you be so kind to help me with the measures or per key model?? Thank you in advance.
 

Offline nevin

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  • Location: US
Re: 3d printed 65% with hot swap, LCD and color changing trim
« Reply #15 on: Fri, 04 December 2020, 12:08:17 »
and maybe in a distant future, also create a webapp for everyone who wants to print it's own crazy layout / keyboard just inputing the KLE layout and some configuration parameters.

that would be unbelievably awesome!
Keeb.io Viterbi, Apple m0110, Apple m0120, Apple m0110a, Apple 658-4081, Apple M1242, Apple AEK II, MK96, GH60/Pure, Cherry g84-4100, Adesso AKP-220B, Magicforce 68

Offline Leslieann

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Re: 3d printed 65% with hot swap, LCD and color changing trim
« Reply #16 on: Fri, 04 December 2020, 21:15:47 »
I'm trying to document what I can, but a lot of it is a real pain.


As for per key measurement and web app, that already all exists.
Keyboard Layout Editor sets the layout then you import that into Swill's plate designer, there's your cad files. Drop those into CAD and build a case around it.  The other option is grab the STL files from here (soon) or Thingiverse and drop them into your choice of CAD and go at it.

Don't start from scratch, there's no need to reinvent the wheel.
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Offline Leslieann

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Re: 3d printed 65% with hot swap, LCD and color changing trim
« Reply #17 on: Sat, 05 December 2020, 08:48:27 »
It's alive!!
So everything works, firmware, RGB, LCD...  I need to clean up some files and finish some documentation, get some pics, but it is up and running.

Threw some caps on for testing.
257112-0

257114-1

257116-2

257118-3
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Offline nevin

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Re: 3d printed 65% with hot swap, LCD and color changing trim
« Reply #18 on: Sat, 05 December 2020, 10:22:30 »
Looks great! Nice job. Congrats.
Keeb.io Viterbi, Apple m0110, Apple m0120, Apple m0110a, Apple 658-4081, Apple M1242, Apple AEK II, MK96, GH60/Pure, Cherry g84-4100, Adesso AKP-220B, Magicforce 68

Offline treeleaf64

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Re: 3d printed 65% with hot swap, LCD and color changing trim
« Reply #19 on: Sat, 05 December 2020, 20:08:06 »
Great job my friend Leslie
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Offline kb45667

  • Posts: 1
Re: 3d printed 65% with hot swap, LCD and color changing trim
« Reply #20 on: Sat, 30 January 2021, 09:38:32 »
Signed up to say: great job! I love the idea of a 3D printed, handwired and above all hotswapable keyboard.

I would like to remix your ideas and turn it into a 3D printed TS65. Do you plan on making your design files available?

Offline csmertx

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Re: 3d printed 65% with hot swap, LCD and color changing trim
« Reply #21 on: Sat, 30 January 2021, 11:56:02 »
Though like a lot of people here, I'm starting to drift away from the traditional staggered layout, that's beside the point. 

I like the accent on the top of the case, and obviously the LCD (OLED?).  If you do not mind me asking, what printer do (or did) you use that can print a perfectly flat plate like that?  Asking for a friend... 

Thank you for taking the time to document the progress.  Looking forward to more updates.

Offline Leslieann

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Re: 3d printed 65% with hot swap, LCD and color changing trim
« Reply #22 on: Sat, 30 January 2021, 22:52:41 »
Sorry, I need to actually get back and finish this, had some health issues to deal with.

I am planning to release the files
, including just a small snippet on the hot swap for those who want to use it in their designs. It works REALLY well.


What printer I use and how takes some explaining.
I design and build my own printers, I have several but my primary is an 18 inch commercial grade corexy and contrary to what you may expect none of my printers have a heated bed. The idea that you need a heated bed is is a fallacy the industry and users have created, you don't, heated beds certainly help with high shrink materials but when you get to sizes like 12inches or more, even PLA will shrink enough to lift, but what many miss is that a heated bed can cause just as many issues as it helps, not to mention that much power creates all sorts of cost, safety and/or power issues which are even worse at larger scales. If you know ways around it, why bother?

Also another issue with big printers is the print surface. Those fancy coated magnetic beds are nice but they aren't flat and this is a problem that gets worse with scale, and then there's the cost, it's insane what they want for one this size, not to mention if you damage it, which the larger it is the easier it is. Same goes for Borosilicate, I've broken a lot of expensive Borosilicate, I am sooo done with Borosilicate. My primary simply uses a 1/2in tempered glass tabletop and a simple Elmer's (white) glue stick, with MANY thousands of hours I've never had a problem.


So how do you do it especially without a heated bed?
First, you may not need heat to begin with for smaller things, people often just assume they need it because they were sold one or were told by plastic makers (though if you have a textured bed you will need it). I do PETG, small ABS, PLA and TPU, and some nylon, admittedly ABS is a hassle and I do it as little as possible but that has to do with ABS delaminating, not the heated bed being the issue. Yes, it can make some things easier, but again, it makes it more complicated. Once tuned yes, it can be easier, but first time you have a problem you're back to messing with it. Is that print issue the bed, the nozzle, the extruder or.... meh. Keep it simple!  I don't even use rafts or skirts. Yes, I know, I'm very much a minority on all of this but I've been doing this longer than most, it does work, it just has a different learning curve.

Make sure your bed is flat and/or you have mesh leveling to ensure proper adhesion. This is where glass shines, those magnetic beds are horrible for flatness so your z axis needs to be always hunting to keep the nozzle at the correct height or else it will just not stick well. Don't forget this adds wear and tear and to the print time.

I start with lilly-pads (there is multiple names for it), put a thin disk, I use 10mm radius 0.5mm high pads with a 0.1mm or smaller separation gap (use half your tolerance) between the part and the pad, this way you retain a solid wall once it breaks away. Most people who use these put no break line, and when they remove them not only is it more difficult but it leaves the inner honeycomb exposed. This leaves a nice normal wall and usually breaks away clean.
260988-0

If that fails to hold you take hot glue or CA (super glue) and glue those to the bed. Beware, on high shrink plastics this can bend or snap your bed glass while printing, never mind removal. I broke 1/4in Borosilicate plate this way. The nice thing here is you can salvage a print if it lifts a little as the pad will lift before the print and allows you time to glue it back down. CA holds better but cleanup is worse (do not use it on Boro!) and takes longer to cure, hot glue holds within a second or two so you aren't stuck sitting there holding it wondering if the glue has set yet. When doing the test prints with PLA I didn't use glue, but I did need it for PET.


If that still isn't enough, which is pretty rare (I didn't need this for the keyboard), you can insert relief channels into the part. Make a solid floor and walls, but from there place a 2 layer thick, .2mm wide slot inside the part to relieve the tension as it prints. As shown here. Keep just enough wall to hide this. The impact on strength is negligible. Basically as the plastic shrinks it pulls more and more for each layer, hence lift, this gives it a chance to relax as only the sidewalls are now pulling and they don't have enough strength to overcome bed adhesion. This gives a chance for the rest to relax and set before continuing on, and from here the entire print lacks the leverage to pull up the print no matter how much shrinkage you have. TL/DR you're you're reducing the amount of pulling power at each end of the print.

This is a good tactic if you're doing production runs since you put them in once and never have to deal with it or cleanup again, but they are more difficult to place  and if the print lifts you can't use these to save it, so pads are still recommended.
260990-1
« Last Edit: Sat, 30 January 2021, 23:11:30 by Leslieann »
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Offline oh no

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Re: 3d printed 65% with hot swap, LCD and color changing trim
« Reply #23 on: Tue, 02 February 2021, 19:03:25 »
I was wondering how thick your plate is

Offline Leslieann

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Re: 3d printed 65% with hot swap, LCD and color changing trim
« Reply #24 on: Tue, 02 February 2021, 21:28:10 »
It's an integrated top plate, 11mm total

6mm tall wall around the top to make it high profile
1.5mm plate
3.5mm under-plate or skirt
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Offline oh no

  • Posts: 7
Re: 3d printed 65% with hot swap, LCD and color changing trim
« Reply #25 on: Fri, 19 February 2021, 16:10:25 »
iíve been trying to 3d print a keyboard for some time now but unfortunately iíve been working with a smaller printer which forces me to split parts in half. iíve tried superglue and hot glue to connect pieces together but theyíve never been strong enough to hold, especially the plate. super glue is just too thin whereas hot glue is just a mess and not very nice looking. do you have any suggestions on what adhesive to use?


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Offline vvp

  • Posts: 846
Re: 3d printed 65% with hot swap, LCD and color changing trim
« Reply #26 on: Fri, 19 February 2021, 17:10:15 »
If you print with ABS then glue with abs-glue (ABS dissolved in acetone). It works really well. Make the shape along which you are going to glue in a zig-zag or stair like manner. Use about 0.2 - 0.3 mm gap for the glue.
Look e.g. here: https://deskthority.net/viewtopic.php?p=347675#p347675

Offline oh no

  • Posts: 7
Re: 3d printed 65% with hot swap, LCD and color changing trim
« Reply #27 on: Fri, 19 February 2021, 18:55:27 »
If you print with ABS then glue with abs-glue (ABS dissolved in acetone). It works really well. Make the shape along which you are going to glue in a zig-zag or stair like manner. Use about 0.2 - 0.3 mm gap for the glue.
Look e.g. here: https://deskthority.net/viewtopic.php?p=347675#p347675
mmm Im printing with PLA and PETG. I don't have an enclosure to print ABS. Besides, I've heard bad things about warping on ABS, especially on bigger parts.

Offline Leslieann

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Re: 3d printed 65% with hot swap, LCD and color changing trim
« Reply #28 on: Fri, 19 February 2021, 21:08:21 »
For PLA epoxy does okay if I remember right. Not much else works well except some questionable chemicals being involved.
PET, forget it, almost nothing sticks to PET, it's why they like it for bottling.

What I like to do is use screws, forget the brass inserts, it's stupid overkill, what you want is #2 or #4 screws, wood metal whatever just find some cheap small screws and use those. If you can't use M3. What I do is make the whole the same size as the screw, while my outer dimensions are dead on by holes are always undersized just a little, then before you assemble it, thread the screws in a half turn or so, then take a cigarette lighter and heat up the screw, thread it in, while it's cooling do the rest. Remove then when cool to the touch and all is well. Don't tap anything smaller than an M5 in PLA (M4 for PET), unless you go really slow (I prefer a drill) it will just turn to goo and wreck your print. Heated screws make great threads (including m5 or larger).

For ABS printing, in general anything over about 1in in ABS needs a heated bed, anything over 4-6inches in ABS needs a heated chamber. Considering the shrinkage being such an issue though I don't really consider it viable for large prints unless you don't care about accuracy since it shrinks too much (on top of strength and de-lamination issues that come with it). Just a general rule though, there are ways to stretch this out and instances where it's worse, it also depends the brand of plastic used, and other factors. ABS has it's place in 3d printing. I banished it from my printers as soon as PET became available. True, you can glue it, but it's not hard to toss in some small screws and be done with it.
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Offline oh no

  • Posts: 7
Re: 3d printed 65% with hot swap, LCD and color changing trim
« Reply #29 on: Fri, 19 February 2021, 22:09:44 »


What I like to do is use screws, forget the brass inserts, it's stupid overkill, what you want is #2 or #4 screws, wood metal whatever just find some cheap small screws and use those. If you can't use M3. What I do is make the whole the same size as the screw, while my outer dimensions are dead on by holes are always undersized just a little, then before you assemble it, thread the screws in a half turn or so, then take a cigarette lighter and heat up the screw, thread it in, while it's cooling do the rest. Remove then when cool to the touch and all is well. Don't tap anything smaller than an M5 in PLA (M4 for PET), unless you go really slow (I prefer a drill) it will just turn to goo and wreck your print. Heated screws make great threads (including m5 or larger).

Screws are annoying because they ruin the aesthetic of the build. Or at least, I haven't found a nice way to incorporate them. Ive had problems with screws because the first couple iterations I had a sandwich design which I screwed together with m2.5 screws and the problem was that the screws put stress on the pieces so that it would not lay flat. It was incredibly annoying because everything was flat and fine before i screwed it, and when i did, it would just warp. I had to ditch a sandwich type build for a gasket mount. At the moment, I'm still using screws to mount the top plate to the case, but the warping isnt noticeable.
Anyways, I was also wondering when you were going to release your files. I would love to use your "pcb" file to adapt it to my own layouts. I'm not sure if there is a "pcb" generator like the swill case generator,  but I thought your design was genius.

Offline Leslieann

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Re: 3d printed 65% with hot swap, LCD and color changing trim
« Reply #30 on: Sat, 20 February 2021, 03:00:19 »


What I like to do is use screws, forget the brass inserts, it's stupid overkill, what you want is #2 or #4 screws, wood metal whatever just find some cheap small screws and use those. If you can't use M3. What I do is make the whole the same size as the screw, while my outer dimensions are dead on by holes are always undersized just a little, then before you assemble it, thread the screws in a half turn or so, then take a cigarette lighter and heat up the screw, thread it in, while it's cooling do the rest. Remove then when cool to the touch and all is well. Don't tap anything smaller than an M5 in PLA (M4 for PET), unless you go really slow (I prefer a drill) it will just turn to goo and wreck your print. Heated screws make great threads (including m5 or larger).

Screws are annoying because they ruin the aesthetic of the build. Or at least, I haven't found a nice way to incorporate them. Ive had problems with screws because the first couple iterations I had a sandwich design which I screwed together with m2.5 screws and the problem was that the screws put stress on the pieces so that it would not lay flat. It was incredibly annoying because everything was flat and fine before i screwed it, and when i did, it would just warp. I had to ditch a sandwich type build for a gasket mount. At the moment, I'm still using screws to mount the top plate to the case, but the warping isnt noticeable.
Anyways, I was also wondering when you were going to release your files. I would love to use your "pcb" file to adapt it to my own layouts. I'm not sure if there is a "pcb" generator like the swill case generator,  but I thought your design was genius.
I had issues with lift from the printer but other than that it was flat, the PLA ones were great, I just didn't properly brace the PET ones. I also use a VERY thick bed to prevent it bending the bed, which with enough plastic you can do, especially magnetic beds, they are notorious for tweaking. Unless something lifts, my bed surface is ALWAYS flat.

As for looks, one reason it's a high profile with integrated plate is besides preferring high profile, it gave depth for the screws to bite into as well as stiffness. I didn't want any screw heads visible so they come from below. On this design the top plate is so thick everything else will conform to it, so if it's warped all of it will be warped when bolted together.

I just need to clean up a few things, since I got sick and motivation has been a real difficult thing to get going again. I'll try and get them done this weekend though.
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Offline Leopard223

  • Posts: 145
Re: 3d printed 65% with hot swap, LCD and color changing trim
« Reply #31 on: Sun, 28 February 2021, 09:52:40 »
As one that's into 3D printing this thread is very interesting to read, keyboard design looks fantastic.

Offline oh no

  • Posts: 7
Re: 3d printed 65% with hot swap, LCD and color changing trim
« Reply #32 on: Thu, 11 March 2021, 13:57:23 »
What's that connecter to the daughter board? I'm looking for it and I can't find the name. Also is it possible to breakout the micro b to usb c? I'm a bit new to this... :)

Offline Leslieann

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Re: 3d printed 65% with hot swap, LCD and color changing trim
« Reply #33 on: Thu, 11 March 2021, 20:52:22 »
What's that connecter to the daughter board? I'm looking for it and I can't find the name. Also is it possible to breakout the micro b to usb c? I'm a bit new to this... :)
It's an Adafruit breakout board, you solder to the daughter board which is available in [urlhttps://www.adafruit.com/product/1764]mini B[/url], micro B and type C.  I used micro B because I had a bunch of magnetic USB cable ends with micro b.

In a normal configuration the arduino run perpendicular to the case, pointing out the back, however this means it needs to sit under the keyboard making for a thick board (that prints on a slant and uses extra plastic) or have a massive upper area (again using lots of plastic), turning it 90 degrees means I can run it parallel and have a slim upper bezel but means the port is sideways, the breakout board corrects the port and allows for more port choices, which can also be swapped out easily if you want. Most Arduino Pro micros use a mini B which most dislike as well and while there are some with type C now, they aren't as cheap or easy to get, mostly I just wanted this to be as thin ans slim as I could as it's still a pretty big print.

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Offline oh no

  • Posts: 7
Re: 3d printed 65% with hot swap, LCD and color changing trim
« Reply #34 on: Thu, 11 March 2021, 21:21:31 »
What's that connecter to the daughter board? I'm looking for it and I can't find the name. Also is it possible to breakout the micro b to usb c? I'm a bit new to this... :)
It's an Adafruit breakout board, you solder to the daughter board which is available in [urlhttps://www.adafruit.com/product/1764]mini B[/url], micro B and type C.  I used micro B because I had a bunch of magnetic USB cable ends with micro b.

In a normal configuration the arduino run perpendicular to the case, pointing out the back, however this means it needs to sit under the keyboard making for a thick board (that prints on a slant and uses extra plastic) or have a massive upper area (again using lots of plastic), turning it 90 degrees means I can run it parallel and have a slim upper bezel but means the port is sideways, the breakout board corrects the port and allows for more port choices, which can also be swapped out easily if you want. Most Arduino Pro micros use a mini B which most dislike as well and while there are some with type C now, they aren't as cheap or easy to get, mostly I just wanted this to be as thin ans slim as I could as it's still a pretty big print.

Did you just cut a usb micro b cable and solder the wires to the breakout board? I just can't seem to find any cables that are already cut and labeled.

Offline Leslieann

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Re: 3d printed 65% with hot swap, LCD and color changing trim
« Reply #35 on: Thu, 11 March 2021, 22:27:19 »
I couldn't get the mini B connector to fit into the pro micro Teensy  due to my design (one of the things I need to fix before I post it), but yes I cut one, I have a ton of them.

If you look at the Pro Micro Teensy it has labeled pads for most of the connections, I just soldered jumper wires from the Pro Micro Teensy to the breakout board, it's USB 2.0 so it's only 4 or 5 wires, pretty simple really other than the 2 data wires which are soldered to the backside of the usb port.


Edit: Wrong controller.
« Last Edit: Fri, 12 March 2021, 08:29:29 by Leslieann »
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Offline Leslieann

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Novelkeys NK65AE w/62g Zilents/39g springs
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Offline nevin

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  • Location: US
Re: 3d printed 65% with hot swap, LCD and color changing trim
« Reply #37 on: Fri, 12 March 2021, 08:32:47 »
awesome leslie. thanks for sharing! :thumb:
Keeb.io Viterbi, Apple m0110, Apple m0120, Apple m0110a, Apple 658-4081, Apple M1242, Apple AEK II, MK96, GH60/Pure, Cherry g84-4100, Adesso AKP-220B, Magicforce 68

Offline Leslieann

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Re: 3d printed 65% with hot swap, LCD and color changing trim
« Reply #38 on: Fri, 12 March 2021, 08:40:05 »
You're welcome,

The hot swap system itself works fantastic but the wiring system is overly complicated and tedious, moreso than even a normal hand wired board.

This is now complete or as complete as it will ever be but I'm completely burnt out and is about as done as it will get.
I got sick as it was coming to an end and some files are lost (firmware stuff, not printed parts) and it just burned me out, to be fair a lot of this was always just an experiment, I never planned on using this for much on my own anyhow so there's not a lot of drive to really make it easy to replicate which would take quite a lot more work. Everything is there if you want to remix and use this as the basis of your own, but I do NOT recommend building an exact copy of this.

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| GMMK TKL
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w/ Kailh Purple Pros/lubed/Novelkeys 39g springs, HK Gaming Thick PBT caps, Netdot Gen10 Magnetic cable
| PF65 3d printed 65% w/LCD and hot swap
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| Magicforce 68
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| YMDK75 Jail Housed Gateron Blues
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| Das Pro
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| GH60
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| Logitech Illumininated | IBM Model M (x2)

Offline nevin

  • Posts: 1425
  • Location: US
Re: 3d printed 65% with hot swap, LCD and color changing trim
« Reply #39 on: Fri, 12 March 2021, 09:20:58 »
all your hard work is greatly appreciated, and doubly for sharing.
you made a "proper" bed for the hotswap sockets and put together a wonderful example of wire routing, friction fit, etc. in an extremely solid build.

cheers.
Keeb.io Viterbi, Apple m0110, Apple m0120, Apple m0110a, Apple 658-4081, Apple M1242, Apple AEK II, MK96, GH60/Pure, Cherry g84-4100, Adesso AKP-220B, Magicforce 68

Offline oh no

  • Posts: 7
Re: 3d printed 65% with hot swap, LCD and color changing trim
« Reply #40 on: Fri, 19 March 2021, 22:35:08 »
I appreciate the effort thank you!