What about plates?Skully posted this on Reddit 11 days ago, but I'm not sure if it's still valid;
I'm still working out pricing. Parts for my 66% board will start at around $150 for acrylic plate, acrylic case, pcb, zealios switches and costar stabilizers (everything except for caps and a USB cable) and then assembly will be an additional charge on top of that I have yet to determine, but I want to make it affordable.
...
I'll have aluminum plates too but acrylic will be the cheapest way to get one.
What about plates?Skully posted this on Reddit 11 days ago, but I'm not sure if it's still valid;QuoteI'm still working out pricing. Parts for my 66% board will start at around $150 for acrylic plate, acrylic case, pcb, zealios switches and costar stabilizers (everything except for caps and a USB cable) and then assembly will be an additional charge on top of that I have yet to determine, but I want to make it affordable.
...
I'll have aluminum plates too but acrylic will be the cheapest way to get one.
I don't have an acrylic board yet. This might be a good first one.
What does MX keycap compatibility look like for this layout? Pretty much any set?
Do we know for sure when/if Massdrop will be running that alu case again? Or is it available elsewhere?
Will different versions of the plate be cut for different layout options?
Wow, it took me forever to figure out that layout diagram. It'll be really awesome to have an alps-compatible fc660, really glad you took alps into account, because that's a really big selling point imo. Also will be super nice to have this layout on a fully programmable pcb, because honestly I feel that that little right hand key cluster could be used a bit better (at least in terms of what I use on a daily basis).
If this had full led support it would be my endgame
If this had full led support it would be my endgame
I actually started with fully controllable LED support, but the problem I ran into was too many traces, so I couldn't support PCB mount stabs. I'm working on a version that solves that, but it'll be a few months before that one is ready. :cool:
Will you be selling 4u stabilizers separately? They're almost impossible to find.
Didn't notice you got your own vendor forum!
Just have to give props to SkullY - these boards are great (I have one) though do to my poor planning I had to take it apart and haven't put it back together yet. That being said. SkullY has amazing QC and customer service. EVERYONE SHOULD BE SNAGGING THIS PCB!
Are all these layouts available for alps boards as well? I'll be using orange alps + caps taken from an Apple Extended Keyboard, and the spacebar is 6,5u on that one. The alps plates does not look like they features multiple layouts!
The PCB supports all layouts for both alps and MX, but unfortunately the plate is another matter. Due to the way alps/matias stabilizers work you can't make a plate that supports multiple combinations easily if you need to stabilize keys. I'm working on a way around that problem but it will be a while, if ever, before that gets solved.
However, if you're OK with an acrylic plate I can cut one with any layout you want.
I'd definitelly be down for an acrylic plate if that allows for a custom layout! Now when I think about it... You don't happen to have any left-over monarch pcb's lying around? ;)
Is it looking like the store is coming up soon? I've heard about the troubles around the launch; I hope you'll be able to sort everything out soon!
Oh... :(I'd definitelly be down for an acrylic plate if that allows for a custom layout! Now when I think about it... You don't happen to have any left-over monarch pcb's lying around? ;)Any spares go to koalapear, so you'll have to bug him. ;)
Is it looking like the store is coming up soon? I've heard about the troubles around the launch; I hope you'll be able to sort everything out soon!
I have the store all configured, I just need to take about 30 more pictures and finish describing everything. I'd like to think that wouldn't take long, but you'd be surprised.
Good luck finish it all up! :) Will you stock alps/ Mx stabs?
Good luck finish it all up! :) Will you stock alps/ Mx stabs?
Thanks!
Yes, I have both pcb and plate mounted cherry stabs, and a bunch of matias stabs (https://www.instagram.com/p/_pSvIWoxUt/).
Somehow I am very happy right now that I decided to wait. Do you have an image of the new possible layouts?
Thank you! And does the Aluminium case include feet?
Will the 2.0 PCB use SMD or through-hole components. If it uses SMD, will they come pre-soldered? Will the 2.0 PCB be compatible with the Cherry MX plates you're currently selling? I was planning to build my own custom 60% but this comes so close to my ideal layout and will look so much nicer than a hand-wired skeleton case, that I think this will be my next keyboard. I bought several child sets of Carbon just to get the few keys I would need for my custom layout, but seeing the titanium gray case you have, I find myself wondering what sets I would need to put Nantucket Selectric on this board.All the components, apart from switches are pre-soldered.
Will the 2.0 PCB use SMD or through-hole components. If it uses SMD, will they come pre-soldered? Will the 2.0 PCB be compatible with the Cherry MX plates you're currently selling? I was planning to build my own custom 60% but this comes so close to my ideal layout and will look so much nicer than a hand-wired skeleton case, that I think this will be my next keyboard. I bought several child sets of Carbon just to get the few keys I would need for my custom layout, but seeing the titanium gray case you have, I find myself wondering what sets I would need to put Nantucket Selectric on this board.
If you want one of those titanium grey cases you better order soon, there are only 2 left in stock. :)
If you want one of those titanium grey cases you better order soon, there are only 2 left in stock. :)
That is unfortunate. Will you have more cases in stock by the time the 2.0 PCBs become available? The Nantucket Selectric group buy ends this week. If I don't buy the case, I won't have anything to put my keyboard in. If I don't buy the caps, I may have to suffer with the awful stock Ducky Shine keycaps on my home board for 6 months or more.
edit:
And does the split spacebar layout support both PCB-mount and plate mount stabs?
Will the new plate be available with the release of the new pcb? If I place an order to reserve the new pcb, could you switch me to new new plate before dispatching the order?
Shame I missed the first round but I will definitely buy a pcb + plate for my FC660M.
It is my work board that I lug around in a custom case. Any chance of a carbon fiber plate? ;)
Mostly looking for a way to make my work keyboard lighter. So either CF or titanium would work.Shame I missed the first round but I will definitely buy a pcb + plate for my FC660M.No plans for now but anything is possible. If there's enough interest we can do a group buy for one.
It is my work board that I lug around in a custom case. Any chance of a carbon fiber plate? ;)
I saw that you mentioned in December that a future version of this PCB would support LEDs. Is there any estimate on when this may be released? I am of course assuming that the 2.0 version does not support it, and I could be entirely mistaken.
A few questions:
1) When do we get to see the new PCB 2.0 layout options?
2) Will there be a new aluminum Alps plate that supports all the current and new options? I'd like to have Alps in a split space bar + split backspace layout.
Thanks!
Is there any possibility of a 1u or 1.25u key in the middle of the split spacebar for the version 2.0 PCB?
For anyone that ordered a PCB 2.0 with additional components, is the shipping delayed until all components arrive? I assume that's the case, but I just want to be sure.
For anyone that ordered a PCB 2.0 with additional components, is the shipping delayed until all components arrive? I assume that's the case, but I just want to be sure.
Yes, if you pre-ordered your whole order is being held until those come in.
Is there any possibility of a 1u or 1.25u key in the middle of the split spacebar for the version 2.0 PCB?
Not at this point, I've already ordered the 2.0. I will keep it in mind for the next revision of the PCB.
That's only slightly disappointing. But the way you designed the bottom row will still allow me to reach the keys next to the split space bar with minimal hand movement. Clueboard is going to be my next keyboard and my first non-mass produced keyboard. The version 1.0 PCB looks so clean, I'm eager to see how 2.0 turns out. I already bought switches and a case. I got the case from Massdrop (sorry, but $20 is $20), but I'm not sure about the angle. I figure if I don't like it, maybe I can convert it into a planter or something, and buy one of your acrylic cases (so many options!). Now, I'm just waiting for the 2.0 PCB and plate to become available. Well, I had planned on waiting but I'm wondering if it's possible 2.0 will sell out before it even arrives. Is 2.0 going to have a limited run or will it be available for a while?
Is there any possibility of a 1u or 1.25u key in the middle of the split spacebar for the version 2.0 PCB?
Not at this point, I've already ordered the 2.0. I will keep it in mind for the next revision of the PCB.
That's only slightly disappointing. But the way you designed the bottom row will still allow me to reach the keys next to the split space bar with minimal hand movement. Clueboard is going to be my next keyboard and my first non-mass produced keyboard.
You think you have it bad. At least you know your parts are going to arrive sometime. I've got to wait for the parts to be available for order. There's no option to preorder the plate. And to twist the knife even more, my case already arrived. Sure, I have to wait for my switches but those are already ordered so I know they're coming.
As soon as that notification email hits my inbox, I will be ordering a plate (still going go have blue?), PCB, and stabilizers. Will Alps ever support the same layout options as Cherry? I don't plan on buying Alps any time soon, but was wondering if the option might be available in the future.
Hi Skully,
I can not access to your shop. How can to order PCB?
Preordered an Alps kit. It's time to finally get my hands dirty and learn how to solder. :P
Just to get my hype going even better, PCB V1 had in switch led for CapsLock, Insert and Arrow Keys and V2 will have these plus ESC?
Pre-order update!
I have received word from the factory that the PCB's have been manufactured, but they did not have time to go through inspection today. Tomorrow they will go through inspection and then be shipped out. That means that I should have them in hand and ready to validate by early next week. I could be ready to ship PCB's as early as a week from tomorrow if everything looks good. (*knocks on wood*)
Will there be any leftovers from this batch or are they all spoken for?
Will there be any leftovers from this batch or are they all spoken for?
Only about half the current batch is spoken for, the rest will go up for sale soon.
I built a clueboard and two numpads last night, and so far every feature I've tested has worked great. Sometime this weekend you'll see pictures and maybe even some video, and then all the PCB pre-orders will go out on Monday or Tuesday this week.
Do you expect to have Cherry MX aluminum plates available for purchase/preorder before the current batch of v2 PCBs sells out? If not, can you estimate when the next batch of PCBs will become available?
Will there be any leftovers from this batch or are they all spoken for?
Only about half the current batch is spoken for, the rest will go up for sale soon.
I built a clueboard and two numpads last night, and so far every feature I've tested has worked great. Sometime this weekend you'll see pictures and maybe even some video, and then all the PCB pre-orders will go out on Monday or Tuesday this week.
Nice! I have a few questions -
If I order today, can I get in on that batch? Or do you ship pretty regularly?
Is there a default layout flashed on the PCBs? If not, is the firmware guide mentioned on the support page going to be available soon? I've only built boards from InputClub and their configurator makes the firmware process pretty painless.
Also, while not a PCB related question, I don't know where else to ask - you offer the option to skip out on the top layer of the case. Have you ever had anyone do a build like this to get that sort of Lolita Spyder 'floating keys look? and would that make the screws too long?
Thanks for any help! :D
Hi,
I have a question that does your PCB support AEKII layout? I have some AEK keyboard which in very good condition (both switch and keycap), and I want to use 660 layout.
Best,
What? How? Why? Yeah! eh, presoldered? This is getting better every time :)
Oh man, that white case looks amazing with the LEDs, I've been debating case colors and that might just be it.
So am I correct in understanding that you can do a standard bottom row? So that the only nonstandard keys would either be a short or split shift on the right?
You can do mostly standard. If you have a 6.25u spacebar you will have to have a 1u mod somewhere on the bottom row (or leave a blank spot there.) If you go with a 6U spacebar you can have all 1.25u mods on the bottom, but a 6u spacebar isn't standard.
Oh man I might have to get in on another one of these now that there's purple case colors and underlighting support...will go perfect with purple JTK and zealios. How many RGB LEDs need to be soldered on? Are resistors needed too?
Are the LEDs controllable or do they just cycle?
Are the LEDs controllable or do they just cycle?
Oh man I might have to get in on another one of these now that there's purple case colors and underlighting support...will go perfect with purple JTK and zealios. How many RGB LEDs need to be soldered on? Are resistors needed too?
The back lighting is achieved with a WS2812B LED strip. Im not completely sure (as ive only done an 8 LED strip) if you can do more then 8 without it effecting the brightness, but I think that the more LEDs you add, the dimmer it will be overall. Someone correct me if im wrong...Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/FBixHpg.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/TYBE6bA.jpg)
Are the LEDs controllable or do they just cycle?Oh man I might have to get in on another one of these now that there's purple case colors and underlighting support...will go perfect with purple JTK and zealios. How many RGB LEDs need to be soldered on? Are resistors needed too?
The back lighting is achieved with a WS2812B LED strip. Im not completely sure (as ive only done an 8 LED strip) if you can do more then 8 without it effecting the brightness, but I think that the more LEDs you add, the dimmer it will be overall. Someone correct me if im wrong...Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/FBixHpg.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/TYBE6bA.jpg)
I'd definitely like to work this into my build. Same question as Jacco, but I mainly want to be able to turn them off from the keyboard.
Also, redbanshee, can you point to a good guide on how to install these? I've never worked with LED strips and I'd like to study up so I can minimize how much I'm wrecking that pretty white board.
That sounds pretty sweet. :thumb:Are the LEDs controllable or do they just cycle?
100% controllable, with multiple effects/brightness/hue/saturation control
Are the LEDs controllable or do they just cycle?Oh man I might have to get in on another one of these now that there's purple case colors and underlighting support...will go perfect with purple JTK and zealios. How many RGB LEDs need to be soldered on? Are resistors needed too?
The back lighting is achieved with a WS2812B LED strip. Im not completely sure (as ive only done an 8 LED strip) if you can do more then 8 without it effecting the brightness, but I think that the more LEDs you add, the dimmer it will be overall. Someone correct me if im wrong...Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/FBixHpg.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/TYBE6bA.jpg)
I'd definitely like to work this into my build. Same question as Jacco, but I mainly want to be able to turn them off from the keyboard.
Also, redbanshee, can you point to a good guide on how to install these? I've never worked with LED strips and I'd like to study up so I can minimize how much I'm wrecking that pretty white board.
There is no guide.... yet. I me and skully just got it working last night :D
I can do a fast write up on how to get it done once I completely finalize my firmware, I still have some issues to work out in the firmware itself before letting you guys at it. Skully will probably write his own guide eventually for the v2.0 pcb rgb strip install.
Those pics are of my modded clueboard v1.0 FYI... it should be easier to add this to a v2.0 clueboard
Sounds good! Any chance you might be willing to throw up a shopping list so we can have things on hand for when that time comes? Or is just the LED strip that Skully linked and some resistors?
Do the Acrylic case metal plate also fit the regular FC660m/Varmillo case
Skully! Any chance you could send some smds in my fulfillment and/or possibly transparent middle acrylic pieces - I'd gladly pay!
Oh man I might have to get in on another one of these now that there's purple case colors and underlighting support...will go perfect with purple JTK and zealios. How many RGB LEDs need to be soldered on? Are resistors needed too?
Are the LEDs controllable or do they just cycle?Oh man I might have to get in on another one of these now that there's purple case colors and underlighting support...will go perfect with purple JTK and zealios. How many RGB LEDs need to be soldered on? Are resistors needed too?
The back lighting is achieved with a WS2812B LED strip. Im not completely sure (as ive only done an 8 LED strip) if you can do more then 8 without it effecting the brightness, but I think that the more LEDs you add, the dimmer it will be overall. Someone correct me if im wrong...Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/FBixHpg.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/TYBE6bA.jpg)
I'd definitely like to work this into my build. Same question as Jacco, but I mainly want to be able to turn them off from the keyboard.
Also, redbanshee, can you point to a good guide on how to install these? I've never worked with LED strips and I'd like to study up so I can minimize how much I'm wrecking that pretty white board.
Sounds good! Any chance you might be willing to throw up a shopping list so we can have things on hand for when that time comes? Or is just the LED strip that Skully linked and some resistors?
Are the LEDs controllable or do they just cycle?
All you need is a WS2812B strip and some wire. The WS2812B strips come with resistors pre-soldered and they come in coated (waterproof) and uncoated variations. Either variation will work but I recommend the uncoated version.
Any plan for in switches LED?
Just placed my order for my second clueboard! I got burned hard on Ivan's RedScarf GB, but now I can complete my dream of a small form factor purple board with underlighting without having to resort to Winkeyless or GON. Clueboard 1.0 was perfect for building my MX Clears board. Really excited to build with the new pcb and hopefully create my endgame board.
Just placed my order for my second clueboard! I got burned hard on Ivan's RedScarf GB, but now I can complete my dream of a small form factor purple board with underlighting without having to resort to Winkeyless or GON. Clueboard 1.0 was perfect for building my MX Clears board. Really excited to build with the new pcb and hopefully create my endgame board.
Silly silly. There is no endgame.
Just placed my order for my second clueboard! I got burned hard on Ivan's RedScarf GB, but now I can complete my dream of a small form factor purple board with underlighting without having to resort to Winkeyless or GON. Clueboard 1.0 was perfect for building my MX Clears board. Really excited to build with the new pcb and hopefully create my endgame board.
Silly silly. There is no endgame.
With all of the options for bottom rows and the holes for the stabilizers for the space bar, I'm having a hard time keeping firmly in the board. It'll just slide out or shift to one of the joining holes.
Any tips for keeping it in place? I'm looking to do a standard bottom row.
What can you do with i2c support? Sounds interesting.
I'm somewhat familiar with serial protocol, and I've done some serial stuff with Arduino, but I wasn't sure what the particular application would be in this case. The screen idea is a good one. I've been thinking about ways to indicate layer states, etc.What can you do with i2c support? Sounds interesting.
In short you can talk to other hardware.
For example, I've been eyeing this screen (https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/micro-oled-breakout-hookup-guide). Using i2c you could display information, like your current layer or the RGB mode for underlighting.
Or how about Bluetooth? It wouldn't be as straightforward as it is on the planck, but you could use i2c to add a bluetooth module to your clueboard.
You can even violate patents! it would be really easy to design a PCB that sits below the Clueboard PCB and shines LED's up through the switch holes, using i2c to talk to the MCU on that board. That way you could control the backlighting from your keyboard.
So, what do we need to do to get these LEDs working? Other than waiting on some caps I have in the mail, this is the last hurdle for me.
So, what do we need to do to get these LEDs working? Other than waiting on some caps I have in the mail, this is the last hurdle for me.
I just sent a PM to skullydazed about that lol
I'm happily typing on my board right now...but I can't light up those arrows and esc keys :(
By default Fn+Page Up will turn the in-switch LED's on and off.
I'm working on shipping orders right now, but on my todo list for tonight is getting the firmware source code, and a default firmware with RGB support, posted and available. Please sit tight, you'll be able to customize soon!
With all of the options for bottom rows and the holes for the stabilizers for the space bar, I'm having a hard time keeping firmly in the board. It'll just slide out or shift to one of the joining holes.
Any tips for keeping it in place? I'm looking to do a standard bottom row.
About to start soldering my board together! I just received the Clueboard 2.0 PCB today. I will be using the Alum case from Massdrop but I noticed a small issue. It seems like the board fits a bit loosely inside the case even when the case is fastened with the screws. Upon inspection, it seems the plate is a bit short on the sides that the case isnt able to grip on the edges. Anyone have a solution or faced this yet? :o
Aside from, that this board is gonna be gorgeous! :'D
Duck feet on my clueboard ;D :Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/42JY5E5.jpg)
album: http://imgur.com/a/lK0Pk
Forgive me for being a bit out of the loop (you miss a lot when you're only an Ergodox user), but how does one find such excellent feets? I may have instantly developed a fetish.
So, I'm having a little trouble making a hex file. I'm not making a custom keymap at this time, just trying to get the RGB lights to work. I'm able to make a Clueboard1 hex without any trouble. However, Clueboard2 results in an error 1. It looks like the failure has something to do with "multiple definitions of 'led_set'Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/bdI3TZf.png?1)
Also, isn't RGBLight_Enable already uncommented in the Makefile?
Sorry if this isn't a ton of information to go off of. This is most definitely not my area of expertise.
Hey Skully, any more info on continued PCB production? Currently still undecided on case color and switches, but I was debating grabbing the PCB just in fear of missing out. Wasn't sure if the next shipment would be in before or after you manage to get color sample pictures taken, you know?
Hey Skully, any more info on continued PCB production? Currently still undecided on case color and switches, but I was debating grabbing the PCB just in fear of missing out. Wasn't sure if the next shipment would be in before or after you manage to get color sample pictures taken, you know?
The next batch ships to me on Apr 15, which means it should be in my hands on Apr 22. (The day before my birthday actually.)
So, I'm having a little trouble making a hex file. I'm not making a custom keymap at this time, just trying to get the RGB lights to work. I'm able to make a Clueboard1 hex without any trouble. However, Clueboard2 results in an error 1. It looks like the failure has something to do with "multiple definitions of 'led_set'Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/bdI3TZf.png?1)
Also, isn't RGBLight_Enable already uncommented in the Makefile?
Sorry if this isn't a ton of information to go off of. This is most definitely not my area of expertise.
Sorry about that! In my haste to get this out there I missed committing that fix. Edit led.c and change "led_set" to "led_set_kb". We just got to LA and are about to go to dinner, I will commit the fix tomorrow.
In the meantime, if you just want to enable RGB you can try this hex: https://www.dropbox.com/s/9qas00d813qqi3q/clueboard2.hex?dl=0
So, I'm having a little trouble making a hex file. I'm not making a custom keymap at this time, just trying to get the RGB lights to work. I'm able to make a Clueboard1 hex without any trouble. However, Clueboard2 results in an error 1. It looks like the failure has something to do with "multiple definitions of 'led_set'Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/bdI3TZf.png?1)
Also, isn't RGBLight_Enable already uncommented in the Makefile?
Sorry if this isn't a ton of information to go off of. This is most definitely not my area of expertise.
Sorry about that! In my haste to get this out there I missed committing that fix. Edit led.c and change "led_set" to "led_set_kb". We just got to LA and are about to go to dinner, I will commit the fix tomorrow.
In the meantime, if you just want to enable RGB you can try this hex: https://www.dropbox.com/s/9qas00d813qqi3q/clueboard2.hex?dl=0
I was able to compile a firmware with the change to the led.c file, but the backlight functionality doesn't appear to be working for me. The LEDs seem to be installed correctly because they flash when I plug in the board (they did this on the old firmware as well). I'll continue to troubleshoot this afternoon.
How would I go about putting the hex file you linked onto my Clueboard? I've been uploading with the 'make dfu' in the terminal.
dfu-programmer atmega32u4 erase || dfu-programmer $(MCU) erase --force
dfu-programmer atmega32u4 flash clueboard2.hex
dfu-programmer atmega32u4 reset
So, I'm having a little trouble making a hex file. I'm not making a custom keymap at this time, just trying to get the RGB lights to work. I'm able to make a Clueboard1 hex without any trouble. However, Clueboard2 results in an error 1. It looks like the failure has something to do with "multiple definitions of 'led_set'Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/bdI3TZf.png?1)
Also, isn't RGBLight_Enable already uncommented in the Makefile?
Sorry if this isn't a ton of information to go off of. This is most definitely not my area of expertise.
Sorry about that! In my haste to get this out there I missed committing that fix. Edit led.c and change "led_set" to "led_set_kb". We just got to LA and are about to go to dinner, I will commit the fix tomorrow.
In the meantime, if you just want to enable RGB you can try this hex: https://www.dropbox.com/s/9qas00d813qqi3q/clueboard2.hex?dl=0
Here's a video of the LED in action from my instagram. I still haven't quite gotten to figuring out how to make changes, but the WS2812Bs most definitely work at this point. :D
https://www.instagram.com/p/BDtOmcFxP8A/ (https://www.instagram.com/p/BDtOmcFxP8A/)
low-quality GIF version:Show Image(https://media.giphy.com/media/1RqcY1Zc3gfo4/giphy.gif)
Here's a video of the LED in action from my instagram. I still haven't quite gotten to figuring out how to make changes, but the WS2812Bs most definitely work at this point. :D
https://www.instagram.com/p/BDtOmcFxP8A/ (https://www.instagram.com/p/BDtOmcFxP8A/)
low-quality GIF version:Show Image(https://media.giphy.com/media/1RqcY1Zc3gfo4/giphy.gif)
Is that JTK White/Purple? What layout are you using? I'm wanting to use that set on mine. The set didn't come with a 2nd 2.25x shift key for Right Shift so I'm not quite sure what to do with R4. The Tsangen shift that came with JTK and is used on 75% boards isn't an option as far as I can tell.
Here's a video of the LED in action from my instagram. I still haven't quite gotten to figuring out how to make changes, but the WS2812Bs most definitely work at this point. :D
https://www.instagram.com/p/BDtOmcFxP8A/ (https://www.instagram.com/p/BDtOmcFxP8A/)
low-quality GIF version:Show Image(https://media.giphy.com/media/1RqcY1Zc3gfo4/giphy.gif)
Is that JTK White/Purple? What layout are you using? I'm wanting to use that set on mine. The set didn't come with a 2nd 2.25x shift key for Right Shift so I'm not quite sure what to do with R4. The Tsangen shift that came with JTK and is used on 75% boards isn't an option as far as I can tell.
On the 2.0 PCB you can replace the 2.25 left key with a 1u and 1.25u key. No bastard shift needed.
Here's a video of the LED in action from my instagram. I still haven't quite gotten to figuring out how to make changes, but the WS2812Bs most definitely work at this point. :D
https://www.instagram.com/p/BDtOmcFxP8A/ (https://www.instagram.com/p/BDtOmcFxP8A/)
low-quality GIF version:Show Image(https://media.giphy.com/media/1RqcY1Zc3gfo4/giphy.gif)
Is that JTK White/Purple? What layout are you using? I'm wanting to use that set on mine. The set didn't come with a 2nd 2.25x shift key for Right Shift so I'm not quite sure what to do with R4. The Tsangen shift that came with JTK and is used on 75% boards isn't an option as far as I can tell.
On the 2.0 PCB you can replace the 2.25 left key with a 1u and 1.25u key. No bastard shift needed.
So what key are you using for right shift? I thought the only 1.25 that came with JTK are ctrl, alt, win, and menu keys
Here's a video of the LED in action from my instagram. I still haven't quite gotten to figuring out how to make changes, but the WS2812Bs most definitely work at this point. :D
https://www.instagram.com/p/BDtOmcFxP8A/ (https://www.instagram.com/p/BDtOmcFxP8A/)
low-quality GIF version:Show Image(https://media.giphy.com/media/1RqcY1Zc3gfo4/giphy.gif)
Is that JTK White/Purple? What layout are you using? I'm wanting to use that set on mine. The set didn't come with a 2nd 2.25x shift key for Right Shift so I'm not quite sure what to do with R4. The Tsangen shift that came with JTK and is used on 75% boards isn't an option as far as I can tell.
On the 2.0 PCB you can replace the 2.25 left key with a 1u and 1.25u key. No bastard shift needed.
So what key are you using for right shift? I thought the only 1.25 that came with JTK are ctrl, alt, win, and menu keys
I used the menu key and the compass star.
One of the images on the Clueboard store's PCB page (https://shop.clueboard.co/Clueboard-66-PCB-Version-2-0.html) shows a lot of light under the keys. Do you have Zealios on that board? Does enough light shine through the holes in the PCB to backlight the keys? I won't get the benefit of underlighting with my aluminum case. Backlight has never mattered to me but I'm strongly considering buying LEDs to put on the Clueboard when I buy it, if the keys will be lit. I have a dark gray case. Would painting the inside of the case with a chrome, or other highly reflective paint, have an appreciable effect on the amount of light that shines through the PCB?
Do you sell acrylic plates for the FC660m case? Right now, the lack of availability of plates is the only thing holding up my purchase.
I've read that WS2811 active LEDs are pretty much the same thing as the one you recommended. Does this work as well?
I've read that WS2811 active LEDs are pretty much the same thing as the one you recommended. Does this work as well?
I've read that WS2811 active LEDs are pretty much the same thing as the one you recommended. Does this work as well?
Yinzer is correct, you need WS2812B's. You can also use WS2812C's, which are not as bright but otherwise compatible. If you are using an RGB strip instead of the pads you can use any WS2811/WS2812 based LED strip.
The firmware has been fixed! Please update your copies and let me know if you run into any more problems.
The firmware has been fixed! Please update your copies and let me know if you run into any more problems.
I'm still not able to control the LED options through the keyboard shortcuts. Though, looking at the update times on GitHub, it doesn't look like you made any changes to the default keymap. I've flashed both the default keymap and your keymap.
Also, I'm not sure if this is just me or not. I haven't seen anyone else post their new Clueboards with the RGB underlights. I wouldn't rule out a problem with the install, but all of the lights are lighting up in that red pattern as seen in the gif I posted. The only thing I could think of is that the pattern on the red lights is a signal for where there is a break in the chain, but I haven't been able to find anything that suggests that feature is built into QMK.
The firmware has been fixed! Please update your copies and let me know if you run into any more problems.
I'm still not able to control the LED options through the keyboard shortcuts. Though, looking at the update times on GitHub, it doesn't look like you made any changes to the default keymap. I've flashed both the default keymap and your keymap.
Also, I'm not sure if this is just me or not. I haven't seen anyone else post their new Clueboards with the RGB underlights. I wouldn't rule out a problem with the install, but all of the lights are lighting up in that red pattern as seen in the gif I posted. The only thing I could think of is that the pattern on the red lights is a signal for where there is a break in the chain, but I haven't been able to find anything that suggests that feature is built into QMK.
The firmware has been fixed! Please update your copies and let me know if you run into any more problems.
I'm still not able to control the LED options through the keyboard shortcuts. Though, looking at the update times on GitHub, it doesn't look like you made any changes to the default keymap. I've flashed both the default keymap and your keymap.
Also, I'm not sure if this is just me or not. I haven't seen anyone else post their new Clueboards with the RGB underlights. I wouldn't rule out a problem with the install, but all of the lights are lighting up in that red pattern as seen in the gif I posted. The only thing I could think of is that the pattern on the red lights is a signal for where there is a break in the chain, but I haven't been able to find anything that suggests that feature is built into QMK.
What happens when you press Fn+R+Space several times?
The firmware has been fixed! Please update your copies and let me know if you run into any more problems.
I'm still not able to control the LED options through the keyboard shortcuts. Though, looking at the update times on GitHub, it doesn't look like you made any changes to the default keymap. I've flashed both the default keymap and your keymap.
Also, I'm not sure if this is just me or not. I haven't seen anyone else post their new Clueboards with the RGB underlights. I wouldn't rule out a problem with the install, but all of the lights are lighting up in that red pattern as seen in the gif I posted. The only thing I could think of is that the pattern on the red lights is a signal for where there is a break in the chain, but I haven't been able to find anything that suggests that feature is built into QMK.
What happens when you press Fn+R+Space several times?
The letter 'r' and then several spaces.
The firmware has been fixed! Please update your copies and let me know if you run into any more problems.
I'm still not able to control the LED options through the keyboard shortcuts. Though, looking at the update times on GitHub, it doesn't look like you made any changes to the default keymap. I've flashed both the default keymap and your keymap.
Also, I'm not sure if this is just me or not. I haven't seen anyone else post their new Clueboards with the RGB underlights. I wouldn't rule out a problem with the install, but all of the lights are lighting up in that red pattern as seen in the gif I posted. The only thing I could think of is that the pattern on the red lights is a signal for where there is a break in the chain, but I haven't been able to find anything that suggests that feature is built into QMK.
What happens when you press Fn+R+Space several times?
The letter 'r' and then several spaces.
Whatever you're pressing for Fn isn't actually Fn. Can you try something like Passmark or the OS X keyboard viewer to see what key lights up when you press what you think Fn is?
The firmware has been fixed! Please update your copies and let me know if you run into any more problems.
I'm still not able to control the LED options through the keyboard shortcuts. Though, looking at the update times on GitHub, it doesn't look like you made any changes to the default keymap. I've flashed both the default keymap and your keymap.
Also, I'm not sure if this is just me or not. I haven't seen anyone else post their new Clueboards with the RGB underlights. I wouldn't rule out a problem with the install, but all of the lights are lighting up in that red pattern as seen in the gif I posted. The only thing I could think of is that the pattern on the red lights is a signal for where there is a break in the chain, but I haven't been able to find anything that suggests that feature is built into QMK.
What happens when you press Fn+R+Space several times?
The letter 'r' and then several spaces.
Whatever you're pressing for Fn isn't actually Fn. Can you try something like Passmark or the OS X keyboard viewer to see what key lights up when you press what you think Fn is?
So, function isn't displaying in those programs. However, it still seems to work as intended. In those programs, Fn + Backspace will register as Delete. I can do Fn + a number for the Function row or Fn + S + R to reset.
It's just that the LED control doesn't seem to work for me.
The firmware has been fixed! Please update your copies and let me know if you run into any more problems.
I'm still not able to control the LED options through the keyboard shortcuts. Though, looking at the update times on GitHub, it doesn't look like you made any changes to the default keymap. I've flashed both the default keymap and your keymap.
Also, I'm not sure if this is just me or not. I haven't seen anyone else post their new Clueboards with the RGB underlights. I wouldn't rule out a problem with the install, but all of the lights are lighting up in that red pattern as seen in the gif I posted. The only thing I could think of is that the pattern on the red lights is a signal for where there is a break in the chain, but I haven't been able to find anything that suggests that feature is built into QMK.
What happens when you press Fn+R+Space several times?
The letter 'r' and then several spaces.
Whatever you're pressing for Fn isn't actually Fn. Can you try something like Passmark or the OS X keyboard viewer to see what key lights up when you press what you think Fn is?
So, function isn't displaying in those programs. However, it still seems to work as intended. In those programs, Fn + Backspace will register as Delete. I can do Fn + a number for the Function row or Fn + S + R to reset.
It's just that the LED control doesn't seem to work for me.
So, function isn't displaying in those programs. However, it still seems to work as intended. In those programs, Fn + Backspace will register as Delete. I can do Fn + a number for the Function row or Fn + S + R to reset.
It's just that the LED control doesn't seem to work for me.
Sorry, looking back I made a mistake in what I told you. What happens when you press Fn+S+Space a few times?
(I was thinking of the reset command, which is Fn+S+R)
So, function isn't displaying in those programs. However, it still seems to work as intended. In those programs, Fn + Backspace will register as Delete. I can do Fn + a number for the Function row or Fn + S + R to reset.
It's just that the LED control doesn't seem to work for me.
Sorry, looking back I made a mistake in what I told you. What happens when you press Fn+S+Space a few times?
(I was thinking of the reset command, which is Fn+S+R)
I get spaces. For whatever reason, the LED commands in the Reset layer act as if they are transparent. As I said, I'm not 100% sure that this isn't the result of an installation error, but I feel as if those commands would probably be non-responsive as opposed to having some sort of input.
So, function isn't displaying in those programs. However, it still seems to work as intended. In those programs, Fn + Backspace will register as Delete. I can do Fn + a number for the Function row or Fn + S + R to reset.
It's just that the LED control doesn't seem to work for me.
Sorry, looking back I made a mistake in what I told you. What happens when you press Fn+S+Space a few times?
(I was thinking of the reset command, which is Fn+S+R)
I get spaces. For whatever reason, the LED commands in the Reset layer act as if they are transparent. As I said, I'm not 100% sure that this isn't the result of an installation error, but I feel as if those commands would probably be non-responsive as opposed to having some sort of input.
I'm getting the same thing. Only one of my LEDs is flashing red, and none of the Fn+S layer stuff seems to work. Using the default everything. Made sure rgb was enabled in Makefile and did a make and loaded it up. All other keys work and the normal Fn layer stuff works. Fn+Backspace registers as Delete etc. Fn+S+Spacebar just gives me spaces too.
I'm getting the same thing. Only one of my LEDs is flashing red, and none of the Fn+S layer stuff seems to work. Using the default everything. Made sure rgb was enabled in Makefile and did a make and loaded it up. All other keys work and the normal Fn layer stuff works. Fn+Backspace registers as Delete etc. Fn+S+Spacebar just gives me spaces too.
Try adding more solder to the LEDs. I only had a few lighting up at first, but then I added more solder to the pads and I eventually got them all to light up.
^-^
I'm getting the same thing. Only one of my LEDs is flashing red, and none of the Fn+S layer stuff seems to work. Using the default everything. Made sure rgb was enabled in Makefile and did a make and loaded it up. All other keys work and the normal Fn layer stuff works. Fn+Backspace registers as Delete etc. Fn+S+Spacebar just gives me spaces too.
Try adding more solder to the LEDs. I only had a few lighting up at first, but then I added more solder to the pads and I eventually got them all to light up.
Yea working on that. When I first plugged in the keyboard all the LEDs briefly flashed blue, but the only one LED under left control started blinking red while the others aren't on at all.
^-^
I'm getting the same thing. Only one of my LEDs is flashing red, and none of the Fn+S layer stuff seems to work. Using the default everything. Made sure rgb was enabled in Makefile and did a make and loaded it up. All other keys work and the normal Fn layer stuff works. Fn+Backspace registers as Delete etc. Fn+S+Spacebar just gives me spaces too.
Try adding more solder to the LEDs. I only had a few lighting up at first, but then I added more solder to the pads and I eventually got them all to light up.
Yea working on that. When I first plugged in the keyboard all the LEDs briefly flashed blue, but the only one LED under left control started blinking red while the others aren't on at all.
That's exactly what I had at first. Not all of your LEDs may need more solder. Take a note of which LED is flashing and then add solder to the two switches next to it. Rinse and repeat as necessary. The flash sequence starts with the second or third from the left on the bottom.. or, at least that's what mine did.
^-^
I'm getting the same thing. Only one of my LEDs is flashing red, and none of the Fn+S layer stuff seems to work. Using the default everything. Made sure rgb was enabled in Makefile and did a make and loaded it up. All other keys work and the normal Fn layer stuff works. Fn+Backspace registers as Delete etc. Fn+S+Spacebar just gives me spaces too.
Try adding more solder to the LEDs. I only had a few lighting up at first, but then I added more solder to the pads and I eventually got them all to light up.
Yea working on that. When I first plugged in the keyboard all the LEDs briefly flashed blue, but the only one LED under left control started blinking red while the others aren't on at all.
That's exactly what I had at first. Not all of your LEDs may need more solder. Take a note of which LED is flashing and then add solder to the two switches next to it. Rinse and repeat as necessary. The flash sequence starts with the second or third from the left on the bottom.. or, at least that's what mine did.
Add solder to the key switches to help fix the LEDs?
So I now currently have 2 blinking reddish/orange LEDs near the arrow keys on the bottom row and one solid bright pink near Esc. I'm pretty sure all of my LEDs are on correctly. They all briefly flash when I unplug and then plug it back in.
So I now currently have 2 blinking reddish/orange LEDs near the arrow keys on the bottom row and one solid bright pink near Esc. I'm pretty sure all of my LEDs are on correctly. They all briefly flash when I unplug and then plug it back in.
That seems to mean the power pins are connected OK but the data pins are not. The pin with the line next to it is GND, and the pin kitty corner from that is VCC. You don't have to mess with those if it flashes when you plug it in.
The first LED is the one by the arrows. The pin closest to the bottom row, on the same side as the pin with the line, is the DIN pin. The pin kitty corner from that is DOUT. You can trace the chain around the PCB from there, finding the second LED between SLASH and RSHIFT. Follow those around one by one, double checking the solder joints at the DIN of the first one that does not light, and DOUT of the last one that lights.
I'm sorry I haven't had a chance to get the firmware built and double-checked yet. I'm working on it still.
So I now currently have 2 blinking reddish/orange LEDs near the arrow keys on the bottom row and one solid bright pink near Esc. I'm pretty sure all of my LEDs are on correctly. They all briefly flash when I unplug and then plug it back in.
That seems to mean the power pins are connected OK but the data pins are not. The pin with the line next to it is GND, and the pin kitty corner from that is VCC. You don't have to mess with those if it flashes when you plug it in.
The first LED is the one by the arrows. The pin closest to the bottom row, on the same side as the pin with the line, is the DIN pin. The pin kitty corner from that is DOUT. You can trace the chain around the PCB from there, finding the second LED between SLASH and RSHIFT. Follow those around one by one, double checking the solder joints at the DIN of the first one that does not light, and DOUT of the last one that lights.
I'm sorry I haven't had a chance to get the firmware built and double-checked yet. I'm working on it still.
Wait, is this the case with my PCB with the red flashing pattern as well or just for what Wannabe described?
So I now currently have 2 blinking reddish/orange LEDs near the arrow keys on the bottom row and one solid bright pink near Esc. I'm pretty sure all of my LEDs are on correctly. They all briefly flash when I unplug and then plug it back in.
That seems to mean the power pins are connected OK but the data pins are not. The pin with the line next to it is GND, and the pin kitty corner from that is VCC. You don't have to mess with those if it flashes when you plug it in.
The first LED is the one by the arrows. The pin closest to the bottom row, on the same side as the pin with the line, is the DIN pin. The pin kitty corner from that is DOUT. You can trace the chain around the PCB from there, finding the second LED between SLASH and RSHIFT. Follow those around one by one, double checking the solder joints at the DIN of the first one that does not light, and DOUT of the last one that lights.
I'm sorry I haven't had a chance to get the firmware built and double-checked yet. I'm working on it still.
Wait, is this the case with my PCB with the red flashing pattern as well or just for what Wannabe described?
If all the lights flash then your hardware is OK, and what you have is a software problem. Speaking of, I have a fix!
Thanks to a pointer from longhorn on irc, I committed and pushed the fix needed to enable and use RGB Underlighting. If you just want to flash a firmware that I have tested as working, grab this:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/fsg819qzb2mjx87/clueboard2.hex?dl=0
Once you flash that you can hit Fn+S+Spacebar to successfully toggle between modes.
So I now currently have 2 blinking reddish/orange LEDs near the arrow keys on the bottom row and one solid bright pink near Esc. I'm pretty sure all of my LEDs are on correctly. They all briefly flash when I unplug and then plug it back in.
That seems to mean the power pins are connected OK but the data pins are not. The pin with the line next to it is GND, and the pin kitty corner from that is VCC. You don't have to mess with those if it flashes when you plug it in.
The first LED is the one by the arrows. The pin closest to the bottom row, on the same side as the pin with the line, is the DIN pin. The pin kitty corner from that is DOUT. You can trace the chain around the PCB from there, finding the second LED between SLASH and RSHIFT. Follow those around one by one, double checking the solder joints at the DIN of the first one that does not light, and DOUT of the last one that lights.
I'm sorry I haven't had a chance to get the firmware built and double-checked yet. I'm working on it still.
Wait, is this the case with my PCB with the red flashing pattern as well or just for what Wannabe described?
If all the lights flash then your hardware is OK, and what you have is a software problem. Speaking of, I have a fix!
Thanks to a pointer from longhorn on irc, I committed and pushed the fix needed to enable and use RGB Underlighting. If you just want to flash a firmware that I have tested as working, grab this:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/fsg819qzb2mjx87/clueboard2.hex?dl=0
Once you flash that you can hit Fn+S+Spacebar to successfully toggle between modes.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/BNmatjS.jpg?1)
:thumb: :thumb: :thumb:
The hex you provided definitely works.
Got my Clueboard yesterday... together with a hefty tax. But that's the risk of international shipping.
It looks great. I'll make some pictures soon. :thumb:
I did just realize that the aluminum alps plate does not have the option for an 1.75x + 1x right shift.
Ah well.
For you folks getting the v2.0 PCB ... there are only 16 of those strips left on Sparkfun .. I'd be surprised if they didn't restock soon, but if you're really geeked about getting that under-light, I'd move on these. ;)
leds came in today and I am beginning to realize that I am a horrible surface mount solderer. I have a stock 2.0 board and I haven't tried flashing any firmware. I've soldered in 4 right now using different techniques, are any of them supposed to light up when I plug the board in?
Anyone got any tips?
Unfortunately I can't do much about Alps in that regard. If I add switch cutouts to support split shift the stabilizers will have nowhere to clip into. The next iteration will support more bottom row options, however.
Unfortunately I can't do much about Alps in that regard. If I add switch cutouts to support split shift the stabilizers will have nowhere to clip into. The next iteration will support more bottom row options, however.
Yea, I noticed the PCB is compatible with many different Alps layouts, but the plate is the limiting factor at this stage. Even if you do create an Alps plate with more layout options, we are limited by the Alps keycap availability for various layouts on the shift row and bottom row.
I'm also wondering if someone could mess around with Swill's plate building tool to make their own Alps plates that are compatible with all the layouts on your PCB.
Unfortunately I can't do much about Alps in that regard. If I add switch cutouts to support split shift the stabilizers will have nowhere to clip into. The next iteration will support more bottom row options, however.
Yea, I noticed the PCB is compatible with many different Alps layouts, but the plate is the limiting factor at this stage. Even if you do create an Alps plate with more layout options, we are limited by the Alps keycap availability for various layouts on the shift row and bottom row.
I'm also wondering if someone could mess around with Swill's plate building tool to make their own Alps plates that are compatible with all the layouts on your PCB.
Unfortunately I can't do much about Alps in that regard. If I add switch cutouts to support split shift the stabilizers will have nowhere to clip into. The next iteration will support more bottom row options, however.
Yea, I noticed the PCB is compatible with many different Alps layouts, but the plate is the limiting factor at this stage. Even if you do create an Alps plate with more layout options, we are limited by the Alps keycap availability for various layouts on the shift row and bottom row.
I'm also wondering if someone could mess around with Swill's plate building tool to make their own Alps plates that are compatible with all the layouts on your PCB.
The alps plates I'm sending out now look like this:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/RdbtAjM.png)
This supports all the bottom rows, but I haven't been able to find a way to support more switch locations on the other rows. If a switch cutout overlaps a stabilizer cutout, it means you can't use a stabilized key there at all.
Unfortunately I can't do much about Alps in that regard. If I add switch cutouts to support split shift the stabilizers will have nowhere to clip into. The next iteration will support more bottom row options, however.
Yea, I noticed the PCB is compatible with many different Alps layouts, but the plate is the limiting factor at this stage. Even if you do create an Alps plate with more layout options, we are limited by the Alps keycap availability for various layouts on the shift row and bottom row.
I'm also wondering if someone could mess around with Swill's plate building tool to make their own Alps plates that are compatible with all the layouts on your PCB.
The alps plates I'm sending out now look like this:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/RdbtAjM.png)
This supports all the bottom rows, but I haven't been able to find a way to support more switch locations on the other rows. If a switch cutout overlaps a stabilizer cutout, it means you can't use a stabilized key there at all.
What is the arrangement for the Alps spacebar?
Unfortunately I can't do much about Alps in that regard. If I add switch cutouts to support split shift the stabilizers will have nowhere to clip into. The next iteration will support more bottom row options, however.
Yea, I noticed the PCB is compatible with many different Alps layouts, but the plate is the limiting factor at this stage. Even if you do create an Alps plate with more layout options, we are limited by the Alps keycap availability for various layouts on the shift row and bottom row.
I'm also wondering if someone could mess around with Swill's plate building tool to make their own Alps plates that are compatible with all the layouts on your PCB.
The alps plates I'm sending out now look like this:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/RdbtAjM.png)
This supports all the bottom rows, but I haven't been able to find a way to support more switch locations on the other rows. If a switch cutout overlaps a stabilizer cutout, it means you can't use a stabilized key there at all.
What is the arrangement for the Alps spacebar?
I'm not entirely sure what you're asking here. Are you wondering which sizes work?
Unfortunately I can't do much about Alps in that regard. If I add switch cutouts to support split shift the stabilizers will have nowhere to clip into. The next iteration will support more bottom row options, however.
Yea, I noticed the PCB is compatible with many different Alps layouts, but the plate is the limiting factor at this stage. Even if you do create an Alps plate with more layout options, we are limited by the Alps keycap availability for various layouts on the shift row and bottom row.
I'm also wondering if someone could mess around with Swill's plate building tool to make their own Alps plates that are compatible with all the layouts on your PCB.
The alps plates I'm sending out now look like this:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/RdbtAjM.png)
This supports all the bottom rows, but I haven't been able to find a way to support more switch locations on the other rows. If a switch cutout overlaps a stabilizer cutout, it means you can't use a stabilized key there at all.
What is the arrangement for the Alps spacebar?
I'm not entirely sure what you're asking here. Are you wondering which sizes work?
I was just curious about the stabilizer arrangement for the spacebar. There are no holes in the plate for the short style Alps clips (as used for the other keys) and the holes that are there look to be about 3x too wide for the long style Alps clips. Is the plate cut for Costar?
Hey! Any timeline as to when the pcbs are gonna be back in stock?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Hey! Any timeline as to when the pcbs are gonna be back in stock?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Hey! Any timeline as to when the pcbs are gonna be back in stock?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
:confused:
They're still in stock. Are they showing as out of stock for you?
Hey! Any timeline as to when the pcbs are gonna be back in stock?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
:confused:
They're still in stock. Are they showing as out of stock for you?
Hey! Any timeline as to when the pcbs are gonna be back in stock?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
:confused:
They're still in stock. Are they showing as out of stock for you?
Looks like your site is jacked up.
When I click on plates, it only shows the Alps plate.
When I click on cases, it shows both plates, but no cases.
For those of you who end up messing up a pad like me, this is what you can do....it's not perfect...results in other issues, but close enough. If ground is top left, you can solder a wire from top right to bottom left of the next LED in the chain. Use a multimeter to double check.
Here are some photos
Changing Colors: Everything on the bottom row to the first two on the top seem to light up correctly, the next set of LEDs are showing different color ranges. The other way this looks acceptable is when I choose the mode that just cycles through all the colors.
(Attachment Link)
One color: I'm not sure I can tolerate the above case, so I'll stick with single color mode, though for some reason i have one LED that is waaay off.
(Attachment Link)
Alright I hope that helps someone in the future, but hopefully no one makes this same dastardly mistake. Honestly, I think the best solution is to just buy a whole new PCB. It's not very aesthetically pleasing and pretty much defeats the whole purpose of why I chose clear acrylic.
oday.Hey! Any timeline as to when the pcbs are gonna be back in stock?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
:confused:
They're still in stock. Are they showing as out of stock for you?
Looks like your site is jacked up.
When I click on plates, it only shows the Alps plate.
When I click on cases, it shows both plates, but no cases.
I took the MX plate off the site for now, since it's out of stock.
Are you sure that cases is showing you plates, rather than the top plate (which is probably misleading?)
Just out of curiosity is it possible to do a pcb mount clueboard?
Awesome thanks for the answer :) is the partial plate just the mods? Is that already on the site or would that have to be custom made?Just out of curiosity is it possible to do a pcb mount clueboard?
If your talking about the acrylic case, you could do a partial plate otherwise no. On the acrylic case the switch plate positions and holds the pcb in place. I think its the same with the aluminum case because there is not actually any screw mounting holes on the pcb at all.
Cluboard v2 pcb has LED support on the arrow cluster, esc, caps and pg up. They will all work in tandem if thats what your asking
Awesome thanks for the answer :) is the partial plate just the mods? Is that already on the site or would that have to be custom made?Just out of curiosity is it possible to do a pcb mount clueboard?
If your talking about the acrylic case, you could do a partial plate otherwise no. On the acrylic case the switch plate positions and holds the pcb in place. I think its the same with the aluminum case because there is not actually any screw mounting holes on the pcb at all.
Cluboard v2 pcb has LED support on the arrow cluster, esc, caps and pg up. They will all work in tandem if thats what your asking
Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk
Awesome thanks for the answer :) is the partial plate just the mods? Is that already on the site or would that have to be custom made?Just out of curiosity is it possible to do a pcb mount clueboard?
If your talking about the acrylic case, you could do a partial plate otherwise no. On the acrylic case the switch plate positions and holds the pcb in place. I think its the same with the aluminum case because there is not actually any screw mounting holes on the pcb at all.
Cluboard v2 pcb has LED support on the arrow cluster, esc, caps and pg up. They will all work in tandem if thats what your asking
Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk
The partial plate would be the mods, spacebar and you would have to do the number row on the plate too now that im thinking about it (so it would be strong enough). You would have to get it custom.
I took the MX plate off the site for now, since it's out of stock.Any info when MX plate will come back to stock?
Is there any way to get Easy Avr Keymap on the clueboard? I use it for my other keyboards, just curious if I can use it for this too
Also my shift key seems to not work with the default layout, do I just need to install new firmware keymap or what?
Is there any way to get Easy Avr Keymap on the clueboard? I use it for my other keyboards, just curious if I can use it for this too
Also my shift key seems to not work with the default layout, do I just need to install new firmware keymap or what?
http://clueboard.co/support/#/support/errata/
So I finally got around to assembling my Clueboard.
Everything was going well, all my switches are working and don't seem to have any issues, the jumper worked fine for my left shift. I was getting started with the underglow LEDs and I wanted to flash the appropriate firmware, but I cannot get it to work.
I've got qmk set up properly I believe, but when I run a make dfu, the last thing it says is:
"recipe for target 'dfu' failed
make: *** [dfu] Error 4".
When I do just a make, it builds fine. I pressed the reset button on the PCB before doing it.
Does a keymap that doesn't match with the layout on my board prevent the firmware from transferring? If so then I know my problem. If not then I'm lost.
So I finally got around to assembling my Clueboard.
Everything was going well, all my switches are working and don't seem to have any issues, the jumper worked fine for my left shift. I was getting started with the underglow LEDs and I wanted to flash the appropriate firmware, but I cannot get it to work.
I've got qmk set up properly I believe, but when I run a make dfu, the last thing it says is:
"recipe for target 'dfu' failed
make: *** [dfu] Error 4".
When I do just a make, it builds fine. I pressed the reset button on the PCB before doing it.
Does a keymap that doesn't match with the layout on my board prevent the firmware from transferring? If so then I know my problem. If not then I'm lost.
There should be some lines above that will give us a clue. Look for the first line that says "dfu-programmer atmega32u4" and past from there until the "Error 4" line.
So I finally got around to assembling my Clueboard.
Everything was going well, all my switches are working and don't seem to have any issues, the jumper worked fine for my left shift. I was getting started with the underglow LEDs and I wanted to flash the appropriate firmware, but I cannot get it to work.
I've got qmk set up properly I believe, but when I run a make dfu, the last thing it says is:
"recipe for target 'dfu' failed
make: *** [dfu] Error 4".
When I do just a make, it builds fine. I pressed the reset button on the PCB before doing it.
Does a keymap that doesn't match with the layout on my board prevent the firmware from transferring? If so then I know my problem. If not then I'm lost.
There should be some lines above that will give us a clue. Look for the first line that says "dfu-programmer atmega32u4" and past from there until the "Error 4" line.
dfu-programmer atmega32u4 flash clueboard2.hex
Bootloader and code overlap.
Use --suppress-bootloader-mem to ignore
../../tmk_core/rules.mk:424: recipe for target 'dfu' failed
make: *** [dfu] Error 4
$ ls -s clueboard2.hex ../../../hexes/clueboard2.hex
144 ../../../hexes/clueboard2.hex
168 clueboard2.hex
Interesting. I just pulled in all the latest changes from QMK, looks like something increased the size of the hex.Code: [Select]$ ls -s clueboard2.hex ../../../hexes/clueboard2.hex
144 ../../../hexes/clueboard2.hex
168 clueboard2.hex
I'll dig into what's going on.
Interesting. I just pulled in all the latest changes from QMK, looks like something increased the size of the hex.Code: [Select]$ ls -s clueboard2.hex ../../../hexes/clueboard2.hex
144 ../../../hexes/clueboard2.hex
168 clueboard2.hex
I'll dig into what's going on.
Let me know if there's any other info you need from me! :thumb:
OK, I've got it working for now. You can fetch the latest code to build a working firmware.
However, RGB Underlighting does not work. It's adding 4870 bytes to the final hex, pushing up way over the 32k limit. I'm trying to figure out why that is.
I can sympathize. The next revision of the PCB will have larger pads there to make soldering that easier. If you're lifting pads it sounds like you may have your iron too hot and/or you may be pressing too hard. A light touch works better here.
In the meantime I've been investigating other options. My reflow skillet wasn't getting hot enough to reflow these boards, so I'm looking at ways I can make soldering them on cheap enough to offer the service.
I can sympathize. The next revision of the PCB will have larger pads there to make soldering that easier. If you're lifting pads it sounds like you may have your iron too hot and/or you may be pressing too hard. A light touch works better here.
In the meantime I've been investigating other options. My reflow skillet wasn't getting hot enough to reflow these boards, so I'm looking at ways I can make soldering them on cheap enough to offer the service.
Modded toaster ovens seem to be all the rage, these days. It seems to me the Bpiphany uses a toaster oven, but of course his PCBs are much smaller than the Clueboard.
OK, I've got it working for now. You can fetch the latest code to build a working firmware.
However, RGB Underlighting does not work. It's adding 4870 bytes to the final hex, pushing up way over the 32k limit. I'm trying to figure out why that is.
Thanks for the heads up, might be able to try putting it on when I get home from work.
I think someone posted something saying with certain firmware that the LEDs would flash when plugging in the board, but not be controllable. Don't suppose that's the case for this firmware is it?
Wanted to test one LED before proceeding to solder all of them on. Luckily I'm busy tonight and tomorrow, so I'm not too heartbroken or anything.
How do I upload just the hex?
dfu-programmer atmega32u4 erase --force
dfu-programmer atmega32u4 flash clueboard2_with_underlight.hex
dfu-programmer atmega32u4 reset
I've been working on a web UI for configuring the Clueboard. Eventually I'd like it to give you a hex you can flash, but for now it's only a UI demonstration. You can check it out here:
http://configurator.clueboard.co/keyboard/clueboard
The best part is that I've open sourced it. I hope it won't stay limited to just the Clueboard but will be used by lots of QMK based projects.
https://github.com/skullydazed/qmk_configurator
Please try it out and tell me how this works for you so far.
I've been working on a web UI for configuring the Clueboard. Eventually I'd like it to give you a hex you can flash, but for now it's only a UI demonstration. You can check it out here:
http://configurator.clueboard.co/keyboard/clueboard
The best part is that I've open sourced it. I hope it won't stay limited to just the Clueboard but will be used by lots of QMK based projects.
https://github.com/skullydazed/qmk_configurator
Please try it out and tell me how this works for you so far.
I don't know where you find the time!
This is going to be very handy. Building a keymap isn't all that difficult, but it can be VERY frustrating if you misplace a comma. Do you also plan to add LED configuration, as with the Jig On tool?
OK, I've got it working for now. You can fetch the latest code to build a working firmware.
However, RGB Underlighting does not work. It's adding 4870 bytes to the final hex, pushing up way over the 32k limit. I'm trying to figure out why that is.
Thanks for the heads up, might be able to try putting it on when I get home from work.
I think someone posted something saying with certain firmware that the LEDs would flash when plugging in the board, but not be controllable. Don't suppose that's the case for this firmware is it?
Wanted to test one LED before proceeding to solder all of them on. Luckily I'm busy tonight and tomorrow, so I'm not too heartbroken or anything.
I think I have some answers here. The combination of options in the Makefile I have published now should result in a firmware of the proper size. If you just want to test you can grab the pre-compiled firmware I published here:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/fue7hcnf9h4n4fz/clueboard2_with_underlight.hex?dl=0
I've been talking to Jack about how to reduce that size for the Clueboard, and have a couple avenues I'm investigating for that so we don't run into this problem again.
No info about MX plate options?I took the MX plate off the site for now, since it's out of stock.Any info when MX plate will come back to stock?
No info about MX plate options?I took the MX plate off the site for now, since it's out of stock.Any info when MX plate will come back to stock?
Hey skully, no issues getting that hex on the board, but it seems I've got some issues with my LED soldering.
Here's my current results, mind you LED 2 and 3 were blinking while all others were solid. (Attachment Link)
Close up of LEDs 1, 2, and 3:
(Attachment Link)
Close up of LED 11 where the chain stops, I think I fried this spot on the board or something? Not sure, occasionally when I plug in the board this one will blink once very dimly and then nothing.
(Attachment Link)
Any advice on what I need to do as far as jumping these guys to work correctly? Or has that ship sailed? Or if you need better pics to diagnose, let me know!
Hey skully, no issues getting that hex on the board, but it seems I've got some issues with my LED soldering.
Here's my current results, mind you LED 2 and 3 were blinking while all others were solid. (Attachment Link)
Close up of LEDs 1, 2, and 3:
(Attachment Link)
Close up of LED 11 where the chain stops, I think I fried this spot on the board or something? Not sure, occasionally when I plug in the board this one will blink once very dimly and then nothing.
(Attachment Link)
Any advice on what I need to do as far as jumping these guys to work correctly? Or has that ship sailed? Or if you need better pics to diagnose, let me know!
Hey skully, no issues getting that hex on the board, but it seems I've got some issues with my LED soldering.
Here's my current results, mind you LED 2 and 3 were blinking while all others were solid. (Attachment Link)
Close up of LEDs 1, 2, and 3:
(Attachment Link)
Close up of LED 11 where the chain stops, I think I fried this spot on the board or something? Not sure, occasionally when I plug in the board this one will blink once very dimly and then nothing.
(Attachment Link)
Any advice on what I need to do as far as jumping these guys to work correctly? Or has that ship sailed? Or if you need better pics to diagnose, let me know!
If the LED's are flashing when you plug in you can ignore the pin at the corner with a line. You can also ignore the pin kitty corner from that.
Of the two remaining pins there is one that is on the same side as the "previous" LED. That one is the DIN (Data In) pin, and is where the control signal comes in at. Kitty corner from that pin is the DOUT (Data Out) pin. The DOUT on the last working LED should connect to the DIN of the first non-working LED, so check both of those first. If you really have lifted the pad in an unrecoverable way those are the two pins to jumper.
Good luck! You're getting closer to having it all working.
so, clueboard assembled, collected Massdrop case from the customs office. Tried to assemble it, but how on earth do I fix the plate/pcb assembly to the case? It moves up and down inside..
pwade3, take a look at what I did to get around this. It's ugly, and it shows through my clear acrylic case, but it works on the solid colors just fine.
Are any of the acrylic layers RGB Diffusors? Like thisShow Image(http://i2.wp.com/winkeyless.kr/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/DSC_0694_face_diffuser_3.jpg?resize=300%2C201)
Does the "Smog" one have this effect?
Otherwise im thinking
Assembly: Do it myself!
Screw Color: Silver
Top Plate: Transparent Dark Blue
Switch Plate: Clear Acrylic
Reinforcing Plate: Clear
Middle Plate: Clear
Bottom Plate: Transparent Dark Blue Acrylic
Finally had the time to look at my board, touched up a few of the LEDs and we have light!
Any advice on what to do from here? This is single color mode.
I'm not sure why that's happening. It's possible that you heated them up too high or too long. What temperature is your iron at?
I'm pretty confident they're otherwise soldered correctly, as the rest of the string are lighting up properly.
So I'm trying to come up with different layouts for what I'd finalize for my Clueboard. At the moment, I have AEK II and M0116 caps I'd like to utilize. After fiddling with Keyboard Layout Editor, I realize the AEK II space bar wouldn't work with any of the layouts I had in mind, so I guess I'd have to order space bars from PMK to fully optimize what I'd prefer
Below I have two different ideas, one with a 6u space bar and the other (2nd) with a 6.75u space bar. Are any of these renders possible, even?
6u space bar
(Attachment Link)
6.75u space bar
(Attachment Link)
Any one else got any other ideas? The only caps I'd have to prioritize at the bottom would be the Caps Lock at the far left from the M0116 board (would the lock switch be a possibility to use, too?). Any other layouts I can consider. Thanks!
So I'm trying to come up with different layouts for what I'd finalize for my Clueboard. At the moment, I have AEK II and M0116 caps I'd like to utilize. After fiddling with Keyboard Layout Editor, I realize the AEK II space bar wouldn't work with any of the layouts I had in mind, so I guess I'd have to order space bars from PMK to fully optimize what I'd prefer
Below I have two different ideas, one with a 6u space bar and the other (2nd) with a 6.75u space bar. Are any of these renders possible, even?
6u space bar
(Attachment Link)
6.75u space bar
(Attachment Link)
Any one else got any other ideas? The only caps I'd have to prioritize at the bottom would be the Caps Lock at the far left from the M0116 board (would the lock switch be a possibility to use, too?). Any other layouts I can consider. Thanks!
I beleive the bottom left key has to be 1.25. Might have to put Option there and use the bottom layout.
Can toggle Fn on/off (like capslock), like with a long press or something???
Can toggle Fn on/off (like capslock), like with a long press or something???
Yes, you can have a simple toggle or you can program a key so that if you press and release it is one key (like switch layer) but if you hold it down it's another key (like momentary toggle layer.)
Do the Acrylic case metal plate also fit the regular FC660m/Varmillo caseYes
Can toggle Fn on/off (like capslock), like with a long press or something???
Yes, you can have a simple toggle or you can program a key so that if you press and release it is one key (like switch layer) but if you hold it down it's another key (like momentary toggle layer.)
OK, so could it be set up so that it's otherwise exactly the same as my stock 660m, but if I hit Fn-Capslock the Fn-layer is toggled on, so I could then hit sequences of F-keys without holding any other key down, then toggle the Fn-layer back off by tapping Fn again?
Can toggle Fn on/off (like capslock), like with a long press or something???
Yes, you can have a simple toggle or you can program a key so that if you press and release it is one key (like switch layer) but if you hold it down it's another key (like momentary toggle layer.)
OK, so could it be set up so that it's otherwise exactly the same as my stock 660m, but if I hit Fn-Capslock the Fn-layer is toggled on, so I could then hit sequences of F-keys without holding any other key down, then toggle the Fn-layer back off by tapping Fn again?
That specific behavior is rather complicated, but you could do it if you know a little bit of C. You'd need to write custom behavior for the Fn key but it could be accomplished.
If you are ok with Fn-Capslock toggling both on and off it's much simpler.
Did you have any problems with the pcb/plate combo sitting loosely in the massdrop case?
I've got it assembled with the aluminum Leopold case from Massdrop, with 65g Zealios and Originative Co keycaps. I'm chuffed with this!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/zVQMdpH.jpg)
Looks like my soldering didn't hold up. I left my keyboard plugged in over the weekend, when I got to it, I noticed my solid colored light was exhibiting different colors. I unplugged/replugged the USB cable and I haven't been able to get the LEDs to turn on again. All keys still work fine.
Is there anyway I can just buy parts of the acryllic case such as the bottom metal plate?
(http://i.imgur.com/kWNKYr2h.jpg) (http://imgur.com/kWNKYr2)
Here is a teaser of what I plan on doing with the board. It's not soldered yet just sort of assembled with the switches popped in.
First thoughts:
- I need new smaller screws.
- This will be one of my most colorful boards yet. :P
- Unless I can find an Alps spacebar I might just pop in a cherry switch for that key
- It's a good thing Alps DCS Infinity (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=70817.0) came with an extra set of mods with different legends for that second shift.
- Quiet Clicks are really quiet. Even compared to MX Clears :eek:
- I need more Cherry stabs
- My colleagues are going to think this thing is freaky. :))
Do you have any plans to add backlighting support to the PCB? I'm thinking it'd be nice to be able to indicate the different fn-layers by different patterns of LEDs, like lighting only the top row to show that they are F-keys instead of numbers, or lighting only the embedded numpad below 890.
Anyone have a solution to not having to disassemble my acrylic case every time I need to hit the reset button?
For future revisions of the case, can we have a cutout for the button or something?
Got my Clueboard built over the weekend. I ran into some trouble with the left shift key. Putting the switch in LShift, it wasn't recognized by the board. After putting a jumper in ISOLShift it worked perfectly - why, I'm sure I do not know.
Got my Clueboard built over the weekend. I ran into some trouble with the left shift key. Putting the switch in LShift, it wasn't recognized by the board. After putting a jumper in ISOLShift it worked perfectly - why, I'm sure I do not know.
Thanks for sharing this out. Just tested my PCB today and it behaves the same as yours.
Got my Clueboard built over the weekend. I ran into some trouble with the left shift key. Putting the switch in LShift, it wasn't recognized by the board. After putting a jumper in ISOLShift it worked perfectly - why, I'm sure I do not know.
Thanks for sharing this out. Just tested my PCB today and it behaves the same as yours.
Did you guys not have a packet in your package labeled Clueboard 2.0 Errata? My PCB came with a stapled together pack of papers that stated the pcb had this problem and how to fix it (the fix being what you guys already figured out...putting a jumper in ISOLShift).
Got my Clueboard built over the weekend. I ran into some trouble with the left shift key. Putting the switch in LShift, it wasn't recognized by the board. After putting a jumper in ISOLShift it worked perfectly - why, I'm sure I do not know.
Thanks for sharing this out. Just tested my PCB today and it behaves the same as yours.
Did you guys not have a packet in your package labeled Clueboard 2.0 Errata? My PCB came with a stapled together pack of papers that stated the pcb had this problem and how to fix it (the fix being what you guys already figured out...putting a jumper in ISOLShift).
hey everyone, i was just wondering if all the supported layouts on the pcb are supported by the top plate for alps? and if not, which layouts are supported? standard/iso/iso/standard, would that work?
I've been working on a web UI for configuring the Clueboard. Eventually I'd like it to give you a hex you can flash, but for now it's only a UI demonstration. You can check it out here:
http://configurator.clueboard.co/keyboard/clueboard
The best part is that I've open sourced it. I hope it won't stay limited to just the Clueboard but will be used by lots of QMK based projects.
https://github.com/skullydazed/qmk_configurator
Please try it out and tell me how this works for you so far.
OK, I've got it working for now. You can fetch the latest code to build a working firmware.
However, RGB Underlighting does not work. It's adding 4870 bytes to the final hex, pushing up way over the 32k limit. I'm trying to figure out why that is.
Thanks for the heads up, might be able to try putting it on when I get home from work.
I think someone posted something saying with certain firmware that the LEDs would flash when plugging in the board, but not be controllable. Don't suppose that's the case for this firmware is it?
Wanted to test one LED before proceeding to solder all of them on. Luckily I'm busy tonight and tomorrow, so I'm not too heartbroken or anything.
I think I have some answers here. The combination of options in the Makefile I have published now should result in a firmware of the proper size. If you just want to test you can grab the pre-compiled firmware I published here:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/fue7hcnf9h4n4fz/clueboard2_with_underlight.hex?dl=0
I've been talking to Jack about how to reduce that size for the Clueboard, and have a couple avenues I'm investigating for that so we don't run into this problem again.
OK, I've got it working for now. You can fetch the latest code to build a working firmware.
However, RGB Underlighting does not work. It's adding 4870 bytes to the final hex, pushing up way over the 32k limit. I'm trying to figure out why that is.
Thanks for the heads up, might be able to try putting it on when I get home from work.
I think someone posted something saying with certain firmware that the LEDs would flash when plugging in the board, but not be controllable. Don't suppose that's the case for this firmware is it?
Wanted to test one LED before proceeding to solder all of them on. Luckily I'm busy tonight and tomorrow, so I'm not too heartbroken or anything.
I think I have some answers here. The combination of options in the Makefile I have published now should result in a firmware of the proper size. If you just want to test you can grab the pre-compiled firmware I published here:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/fue7hcnf9h4n4fz/clueboard2_with_underlight.hex?dl=0
I've been talking to Jack about how to reduce that size for the Clueboard, and have a couple avenues I'm investigating for that so we don't run into this problem again.
hey everyone, i was just wondering if all the supported layouts on the pcb are supported by the top plate for alps? and if not, which layouts are supported? standard/iso/iso/standard, would that work?
For alps only ANSI with a standard top row is supported. If you're OK with an acrylic plate I can cut a custom plate to support any layout.
hey everyone, i was just wondering if all the supported layouts on the pcb are supported by the top plate for alps? and if not, which layouts are supported? standard/iso/iso/standard, would that work?
For alps only ANSI with a standard top row is supported. If you're OK with an acrylic plate I can cut a custom plate to support any layout.
Speaking of acrylic plates, are they completely translucent or do they come frosted as well? I was wondering how orange Alps would feel like with acrylic plates; I've already decided on a layout I'd like, but wondering if I should go with an acrylic plate to give it less resistance.
Need help guys / skully. Had the board for ~3 months w/o issues but few weeks ago it started to act up. First noticed that suddenly the left win key and left alt key started to be on the other way around. Never messed around the firmware since I flash it. Ignored this then a week after its now completely a mess. Only 2 keys are registering correctly left shift and left arrow, can still flash and change the assignment for this two. But the rest of the keys its either not registering any, wrong keys being thrown or multiple key presses.
My soldering was a mess since this was my first, but it worked for months so don't know whats going on. Anyway here\s an image after flashing. Is there anything off here?
(Attachment Link)
Need help guys / skully. Had the board for ~3 months w/o issues but few weeks ago it started to act up. First noticed that suddenly the left win key and left alt key started to be on the other way around. Never messed around the firmware since I flash it. Ignored this then a week after its now completely a mess. Only 2 keys are registering correctly left shift and left arrow, can still flash and change the assignment for this two. But the rest of the keys its either not registering any, wrong keys being thrown or multiple key presses.
My soldering was a mess since this was my first, but it worked for months so don't know whats going on. Anyway here\s an image after flashing. Is there anything off here?
(Attachment Link)
Did you clean the residual flux from your joints? If you did not corrosion can occur on the PCB/Pads which can damage the connections in the long term. May not be right problem, but it was my first thought given the circumstances.
i am completely lost at how to flash/program this keyboard. anyone have a more step by step guide? i have a .c file with my layout ready to go.
i am completely lost at how to flash/program this keyboard. anyone have a more step by step guide? i have a .c file with my layout ready to go.
Here's the link https://github.com/jackhumbert/qmk_firmware:
1. I just followed the installation guide "Windows (Vista and later)" section (if I recall it correctly)
2. Then download skully's flasher here https://github.com/jackhumbert/qmk_firmware_flasher/releases/
3. Edit the keymap.c on the extracted qmk_firmware-master\keyboards\clueboard2\keymaps\default folder (downloaded from step 1)
4. Launch MHV shell and navigate to the clueboard2 folder of qmk_firmaware-master\keyboards\clueboard2
5. Just execute/type "Make" on MHV. I think you can pass parameters here to specifically choose what you are compiling or building but haven't tried it.
6. Once the build finish the .hex file would be deployed on the same default of your keymap.c.
7. Launch the flasher and upload your .hex on the board
Looks like Clueboard is on Massdrop. Congratulations Skully!
Quick question is the PCB offered still the version 2 of the PCB in which one would have to do additional soldering of a wire to get the left shift to work (can't remember the details..but it's something like that).
I just soldered my Alps Clueboard today but I have some issues with the Matias stabilizers.
They seem to be too long. Whenever I press down the key the stabilizer wants to keep going another mm or 2 making the key very hard to press and even flexing the switch sideways.
That can't be right.
Am I doing something wrong here or do I need to do some modding on the wires?
I will give it a shot after the weekend. For now I sort of fixed it by bending the wires inwards.I just soldered my Alps Clueboard today but I have some issues with the Matias stabilizers.
They seem to be too long. Whenever I press down the key the stabilizer wants to keep going another mm or 2 making the key very hard to press and even flexing the switch sideways.
That can't be right.
Am I doing something wrong here or do I need to do some modding on the wires?
Which direction is the insert facing? Can you take a picture of it, and maybe one that shows it flexing?