I'm mad at you Photoelectric. Why did you have to tell me it's 6061? That's so cool. I'm totally nerding out over the material choice now. Damn my engineering self and wanting the keyboard based on material selection! :P
In other news, I'm pretty stoked to see how you get it bent into shape. Can you try and take pictures of the shop at work? I know it's a lot to ask but I had to :P
also, as i said at keycon, i for one really like the salmon color.
Anodization is a process that changes the surface of the part; it increases the oxidation layer on the outside of the case. In order to reanodize, you'll be literally grinding a layer of the surface off to get rid of that oxidation layer then dipping it back into the bath in order to get a new coating. And it's a dye added to anodization process that creates the color. I don't think it's powdercoated at all.
And the difference between T6 and T651 is how the metal is stress relieved in the tempering process mkawa. T6 is cold worked by flattening or straightening. T651 cold worked by stretching.
I thought I read somewhere you can remove old anodizing by leaving the item in a bucket of caustic soda, much the same as you would prep it for anodizing? Probably would need a polish after that anyway though.
Great looking project, hope it can be restored. Although I am surprised you don't leave the unbending to the experts... the postal service. Put it in a parcel upside down and send it to yourself via the other side of the world, and hope they can be as precise as they were last time, in reverse.
When I did some quick reading yesterday, it's apparently possible to dissolve the anodized layer by submerging / spraying it with some caustic liquids: something like Greased Lighting, where you coat the surface then wait and just scrub with a brush. That's just one example. Though I suppose results vary based on aluminum alloy and anodizing variety.ammonia dissolves aluminum oxide, which is the most of the anodization layer. the thing is that you're going to have to blast or polish before you reanodize regardless, so i don't know if it's worth trying to dissolve the oxidated pigmented layer. just blast it off and prep the underlying metal at the same time.
At the last car repair shop I went to, the guy I spoke with could not believe such damage was done in the mail. He was like "it must have been like that already before it was shipped" haha. And at another shop, a guy said that the steel leg is so thick, it can lift a car; he was amazed it could be bent like that during shipping.Eh its believable. Pallets weighing a ton or more getting thrown on top of it. **** happens.
I'm mad at you Photoelectric. Why did you have to tell me it's 6061? That's so cool. I'm totally nerding out over the material choice now. Damn my engineering self and wanting the keyboard based on material selection! :P
In other news, I'm pretty stoked to see how you get it bent into shape. Can you try and take pictures of the shop at work? I know it's a lot to ask but I had to :P
6061 is pretty common, ya know...
At the last car repair shop I went to, the guy I spoke with could not believe such damage was done in the mail. He was like "it must have been like that already before it was shipped" haha. And at another shop, a guy said that the steel leg is so thick, it can lift a car; he was amazed it could be bent like that during shipping.that's 'cause it would take a stupid amount of force to plastically deform the case, and even more for the case + that thick steel bar foot.
I'm mad at you Photoelectric. Why did you have to tell me it's 6061? That's so cool. I'm totally nerding out over the material choice now. Damn my engineering self and wanting the keyboard based on material selection! :P
In other news, I'm pretty stoked to see how you get it bent into shape. Can you try and take pictures of the shop at work? I know it's a lot to ask but I had to :P
6061 is pretty common, ya know...
among items that we would be interested in: probably, but in general: certainly not!
For "consumer" goods, 6061 is only often used in flashlights, otherwise it's mainly used in aerospace and a few other industries. Even 1000 series (pure, non alloyed) aluminium are probably more common.
Perhaps I should toss it into volcanic lava for some rejuvenation. :p
I would think with anodizing, you wouldn't be able to use filler. It may be dissolved by the acid bath. Or if not, the anodizing would not do anything to the filler, and it would look weird. If you use filler to repair the dents, I would suggest powdercoating it, like Batmann did with his.
The dents aren't even visible, right? Why not call it what it is and be done with it instead of spending just as much as buying a new one to get it back up to brand new specs?
The dents aren't even visible, right? Why not call it what it is and be done with it instead of spending just as much as buying a new one to get it back up to brand new specs?
I typed a long reply and then realized that it's not necessary. The short answer is, I'm doing this for myself, and I want a certain color. It's not about the dents that are really not that visible--I'm just trying to get them filled because I'm a perfectionist. If it will cost an arm and a leg--I won't. Normally I paint stuff myself, but I can't anodize in my kitchen (yet). This project is not about monetary value or "spec". Instead it is about a sentimental value of fixing something I appreciate and customize exactly to my liking. And finally, no, it still won't cost me as much as a brand new unassembled LZ-GH kit. I'd rather not bring up the clack parallel of how much something is worth to someone and what is justified, and what isn't. But there, I did it anyway.
Those are 1000000000% not taohao caps.I am 99% sure those are taohao. Back me up/prove me wrong Photo! :-*
Yeah.. I really am impressed with that work. Wizardry indeed..Those are 1000000000% not taohao caps.I am 99% sure those are taohao. Back me up/prove me wrong Photo! :-*
Yeah.. I really am impressed with that work. Wizardry indeed..Those are 1000000000% not taohao caps.I am 99% sure those are taohao. Back me up/prove me wrong Photo! :-*
mumble mumble cl1481? how's that going?
I can't take any credit for the fixing, other than the organizing and negotiating and calling a dozen and a half different places. I realized the repair work was more than I could handle myself. I can swap LEDs and paint, but metal bending is not my strength :)
I haven't had time to do anything on that front yet, but I'll hurry up if that's preferable!yes, please!
I haven't had time to do anything on that front yet, but I'll hurry up if that's preferable!yes, please!
*GASP* anodizing-freeShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/xIZuodq.jpg)
All shiny and white. Looked pretty cool.
Not much to report--I got to the anodizing place rather late, since it took me over an hour longer to get there than I had anticipated, and I did not leave early. So I just had time to play with some color options and plan how to finish it on Monday. Going to have to come up with some hooks to be able to hold the cover for dying without touching it. I'm thinking longer bolts that go into the bottom of the cover where the switch plate normally screws in. Attach nuts to those and fashion hooks or loops to pull some metal string through. Basically touching anodized aluminum in any way before dying it can result in uneven color, hence trying to avoid it entirely is good.
They don't have any light initial colors, but I liked the semi-transparent combination of blue and green. Actually just plain clear anodizing looked awesome too. It was a slightly milky white-gray--very nice effect.
So I'm going to continue thinking about how to fashion something useful to hang the cover from, and will hopefully have more to report on Monday ;)
*GASP* anodizing-freeShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/xIZuodq.jpg)
All shiny and white. Looked pretty cool.
Not much to report--I got to the anodizing place rather late, since it took me over an hour longer to get there than I had anticipated, and I did not leave early. So I just had time to play with some color options and plan how to finish it on Monday. Going to have to come up with some hooks to be able to hold the cover for dying without touching it. I'm thinking longer bolts that go into the bottom of the cover where the switch plate normally screws in. Attach nuts to those and fashion hooks or loops to pull some metal string through. Basically touching anodized aluminum in any way before dying it can result in uneven color, hence trying to avoid it entirely is good.
They don't have any light initial colors, but I liked the semi-transparent combination of blue and green. Actually just plain clear anodizing looked awesome too. It was a slightly milky white-gray--very nice effect.
So I'm going to continue thinking about how to fashion something useful to hang the cover from, and will hopefully have more to report on Monday ;)
So excited, the cover has been anodized, and the color is a deep rich satin teal - I love it! :thumb: On the way back now, and will add photos soon. As a bonus, I got charged close to nothing for it by the extremely nice anodizing people. This project could not have worked out any better!
Thanks, guys. Feeling terribly impatient about being able to use it, but it might take up to couple weeks until I have everything to reassemble the switches. it's just sitting here next to me, taunting me :) Probably putting in my Jailhouse Blues into it, after careful consideration.
Waiting for some matching stickers from Mr. MOZ :) Also no 7x spacebar.
Waiting for some matching stickers from Mr. MOZ :) Also no 7x spacebar.
Can you share some of your dye research with us? Where did you get it? What dyes can we use? Did you have a color swatch or how did you determine the colors?
And I'm really stoked to see that board with some cyan LEDs :D. Great job Photoelectric!! That color is amazing!
Color Update #2: Final
Last time when the cover was anodized, I chatted with the shop people at length, and the goal was to have a lighter teal color. Unfortunately, we were limited to some standard shades of dye, and the lighting in the shop didn't help, so the end result was much darker than anticipated--great outdoors, but very dark on my desk. So I talked it over with the shop, and they were receptive to me bringing my own dyes. I have done a lot of reading and research about anodizing dyes and techniques and ended up bringing the cover back to the shop this morning, along with a bottle of turquoise dye and a large bin.
It was so worth it! The research and effort has paid off for me, and the end result is a gorgeous electric turquoise--it's practically glowing! Photos of the final color that I will never touch again, as it's perfect! It's more blue or more green depending on angle and lighting:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/dOIQHPN.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/U38pjV3.jpg)
You can see how the side dents look here (they are along the bottom)--not very visible:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/6ra4ziN.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/oCv1bvI.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/DAEOkhk.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/5yXpaTl.jpg)
Also new blue anodized boltsShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/Ucg02ev.jpg)
(that steel plate's a fingerprint magnet :eek: )
Anyway, VERY happy right now. Cyan LEDs have arrived too, and I'd definitely categorize them as more turquoise--a lot of green in them. Going to add LEDs when switch stickers arrive. Unsure on the arrangement yet: either cyan for modifiers and warm white for alphas, or vice versa.
Love it, looks great!
The dents aren't even visible, right? Why not call it what it is and be done with it instead of spending just as much as buying a new one to get it back up to brand new specs?
I typed a long reply and then realized that it's not necessary. The short answer is, I'm doing this for myself, and I want a certain color. It's not about the dents that are really not that visible--I'm just trying to get them filled because I'm a perfectionist. If it will cost an arm and a leg--I won't. Normally I paint stuff myself, but I can't anodize in my kitchen (yet). This project is not about monetary value or "spec". Instead it is about a sentimental value of fixing something I appreciate and customize exactly to my liking. And finally, no, it still won't cost me as much as a brand new unassembled LZ-GH kit. I'd rather not bring up the clack parallel of how much something is worth to someone and what is justified, and what isn't. But there, I did it anyway.
--
JD: I might end up doing that.
C-C-Cyan?? That looks incredible! I know what color LEDs I'm buying next!
to photograph LEDs, turn off any overhead or task lights and spot meter with a focus point on the LED glow. the trick is to pu the luminosity of the LEDs at middle grey. because LEDs are so tight, and so bright compared to the things that surround them, camera metering systems expose around them rather than for them
Show Image(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5343/13920507051_615a5ed04b_h.jpg)
What a fantastic job. A real labor of love, and now a unique custom. I just can't get past the jailhouse blues, though :p
One day I will get a stable job and have a keyboard this cool.
Alas, the life of a student.
One day I will get a stable job and have a keyboard this cool.
Alas, the life of a student.
I sold both of my fully modded Filcos and a Ducky to fund this board back in the day :) No regrets!