Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)

[Masterchief79]

ID this board for me please - seller claims it's mechanical.

[Melvang]

Another question for you guys.  Any suggestions on mounting a teensy without being soldered to the PCB as my project won't have one.  I don't like the idea of double sided sticky tape either.

If you won't use double sided tape, I suppose you could do something like mount the Teensy on a PCB like this one or this one, attach stand offs the the PCB, and epoxy the standoffs in place.  Double side tape would be much easier though.  Or, if you're never going to move or remove the Teensy, I suppose you could exposy or hot glue it in place.  I'd still go with the PCB or double sided tape suggestion though.

I am just paranoid about shorts with stuff touching traces and pins.

Melvang

[badcop]

i'm looking to bend some cherry stabilizer wires for a project.  i measured a cherry wire i had laying around it was 1.6mm or 1/16" of an inch (~14 gauge).  What would be a good source to get straight wire like this?  I have 1/16" stainless steel TIG welding wire at my shop but i think it might be too soft.

[Melvang]

Stainless TIG wire should be fine.  I have worked with it before on other projects and when you. Cut it down to length it should be more than strong enough.  I am just not sure if 309/309 or 316 grade would be better.

Question for myself.  Is there a list compiled anywhere of distances between keys including from outside edge keys and adjacent keys along with distances to navigation cluster and numpad keys.  If there isn't a list anywhere I was thinking of raking some measurements off my Das and posting them here.  I would assume the DIY resources thread would be the proper place for that info as well?

[CPTBadAss]

ID this board for me please - seller claims it's mechanical.

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*Maybe* it's a Focus or an NMB board but it has no markings on it so its hard to tell. Tell the seller to take a cap off so we/you can see a switch.

i'm looking to bend some cherry stabilizer wires for a project.  i measured a cherry wire i had laying around it was 1.6mm or 1/16" of an inch (~14 gauge).  What would be a good source to get straight wire like this?  I have 1/16" stainless steel TIG welding wire at my shop but i think it might be too soft.

Not sure how helpful this is but Litster has a Youtube video where he shows how he makes Costar stabilizer wires. He says he uses 3/64" music wire that he got at a hobby shop.

1) Question for myself.  Is there a list compiled anywhere of distances between keys including from outside edge keys and adjacent keys along with distances to navigation cluster and numpad keys. 

2) If there isn't a list anywhere I was thinking of raking some measurements off my Das and posting them here.  I would assume the DIY resources thread would be the proper place for that info as well?

1) No since this is different for every keyboard.

2) Don't put it in here. Make a new thread or put it in the DIY thread. Not sure if it should go there since it seems very general and you're only putting dimensions up for your Das.

[ReDyrme]

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[Photoelectric]

I think it will give you some idea, but you'll still need some keycaps to go on the switches to get a better idea, and moreover, it won't be the same to test individual switches vs. how they will feel once mounted on a full keyboard.  The switches will feel a bit heavier too when mounted on a keyboard at your normal typing angle..

[CPTBadAss]

It is worth getting it (WASD Sampler Pack) for $18.54 incl. shipping to find out which switch I like the most?

DT has some switch tester tours that you can try as well if you don't like the shipping price.

[ReDyrme]

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[CPTBadAss]

1) Can you tell what DT is? Sorry I'm new here.

2) Do you not get the keycaps which are on the picture?

1) Deskthority is another keyboard community/forum. They are more Euro-centric so it might be easier for you to get in on a tour like that if you don't like the price you listed before.

2) You do. Not really sure what Photoelectric is referring to. He is right that it feels better to try the switches on a keyboard but that sampler kit is better than nothing.

[Photoelectric]

You do, yes--I forgot it comes with keycaps, sorry!  Other points stand.

[BlueBär]

I found this Sampler Kit from WASD  http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/wasd-sampler-kit.html and wanted to ask, if you think it is worth getting it for $18.54 incl. shipping to find out which switch I like the most?

Depending on where you live (you know, Europe is still kinda unspecific), you might find somebody who lives in your country who might lend or sell you his kit if he has one. Also if there is a local branch of Conrad in your country, they sell Cherry MX Clear and Black switches, you then only lack the Red switch, but that's just lighter than the Black.

Can you tell what DT is? Sorry I'm new here.

Deskthority.net, another mechanical keyboards related forum with more Europeans than GH.

Do you not get the keycaps which are on the picture?

You do, but it still makes a big difference having a whole keyboard with a certain switch. A single switch may feel more tactile and is probably not as loud as a whole keyboard.

Again Captain snipes me Edit: I got even sniped twice! I really need to train touch typing.

[ReDyrme]

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[Photekq]

What size screws does the poker use? I know there's a thread on it. I just can't remember the name.

[nubbinator]

What size screws does the poker use? I know there's a thread on it. I just can't remember the name.

It's in the FAQ in the OP, but here it is again (I know since I asked a while back):

CPTBadAss, please put this info in the OP:

Poker/Pure cases use M2-4mm (0.4mm pitch) machine screws to mount the PCB to the case. McMaster-Carr part # 92000A011

I actually ended up getting mine of Amazon since it was cheaper than McMaster-Carr.  Here's the Amazon link.  They were all of $3.30 shipped.  I'd offer to send you some for the cost of shipping, but unless I can send them via normal post for the cost of a postage stamp, they'd probably end up costing more than it would cost to buy them off of Amazon yourself.

[Photekq]

Thanks nubbs. Seems I need to check the OP more often :/

[CPTBadAss]

OP gets updated as I see fit, or if someone asks me to update it, with new frequently asked questions. So definitely check on it every so often.

[remedyhalopc]

Who all makes blank PBTs, and what profile are they? Might make useful OP info.

[CPTBadAss]

Who all makes blank PBTs, and what profile are they? Might make useful OP info.

Imsto and SP have the only blank PBTs I've ever seen and they're Cherry profile. Don't really think it's an OP FAQ since I've only seen it asked a few times. We'll see though.

[Photoelectric]

Ducky has also produced thick blank PBTs in OEM profile--same as their new Dye Sub PBTs, but blank.  Apparently very small quantity, so for most people--unobtainable:
http://deskthority.net/marketplace-f11/ducky-nordic-keyboards-keycaps-projects-and-misc-stuff-t4718-600.html#wrapper
(Ducky Nordic, longer post from June 14)

[Photekq]

Page 100! Congratulations CPT & everyone who has contributed through both questions and answers!

[CPTBadAss]

How'd you pull that off?? First post on page 100? And thanks but this was definitely a community effort ^__^

[Photekq]

How'd you pull that off?? First post on page 100? And thanks but this was definitely a community effort ^__^

Counted the posts..  ) and yes you're right. I've corrected my post.

[Melvang]

1) Question for myself.  Is there a list compiled anywhere of distances between keys including from outside edge keys and adjacent keys along with distances to navigation cluster and numpad keys. 

2) If there isn't a list anywhere I was thinking of raking some measurements off my Das and posting them here.  I would assume the DIY resources thread would be the proper place for that info as well?

1) No since this is different for every keyboard.

2) Don't put it in here. Make a new thread or put it in the DIY thread. Not sure if it should go there since it seems very general and you're only putting dimensions up for your Das.
[/quote]

Sounds good CPT I just figured it would be a standard measurement.  But even though it isn't a standard there can't be that much difference between different manufacturers. 

Edit:  added a missing word due to typing on my phone

[Dubsgalore]

Grats on Page 100!

...back in the new days...

my question....how do you build a gh60?

back to page 10 lol

[UniClown]

Are the pin positions in a Cherry MY switch in the same location as a MX switch?

[jdcarpe]

Are the pin positions in a Cherry MY switch in the same location as a MX switch?

Nope, sorry. You can't replace MY switches on a PCB with MX switches.

[Photoelectric]

I have some older switches I'd like to use at some point, and some percent of them are oxidized inside where the leaf part is. 



A. how bad is it for operation / durability and
B. how can I clean switch housings?  I can't soak them in detergent + water because of the metal--is there something that I could use to clean them + maybe help the oxidation on the few that have it?  It appears that scrubbing them with a q-tip doused in alcohol gets rid of some of the black coating, though not all.

[Melvang]

I have some older switches I'd like to use at some point, and some percent of them are oxidized inside where the leaf part is. 

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A. how bad is it for operation / durability and
B. how can I clean switch housings?  I can't soak them in detergent + water because of the metal--is there something that I could use to clean them + maybe help the oxidation on the few that have it?  It appears that scrubbing them with a q-tip doused in alcohol gets rid of some of the black coating, though not all.

My suggestion would be an aerosol based electrical contact cleaner with a stiff toothbrush.  Fair warning use outside or if it will be done inside make sure it is nothing your house and still use plenty of active ventilation.  That stuff has a ton of methyl-ethyl-bad@&$%.

[domoaligato]

Is a mx lock switch's stem compatible with a standard switch's bottom housing ?

example: gh60 with a plate supporting removable top covers.
I solder in all mx reds but decide later I want a mx lock switch in the place of the left shift.
can I just replace the top cover/stem/spring or do I have to desolder and replace the entire switch?

[CPTBadAss]

B. how can I clean switch housings?  I can't soak them in detergent + water because of the metal--is there something that I could use to clean them + maybe help the oxidation on the few that have it?  It appears that scrubbing them with a q-tip doused in alcohol gets rid of some of the black coating, though not all.

Try Deoxit maybe?

[Photoelectric]

B. how can I clean switch housings?  I can't soak them in detergent + water because of the metal--is there something that I could use to clean them + maybe help the oxidation on the few that have it?  It appears that scrubbing them with a q-tip doused in alcohol gets rid of some of the black coating, though not all.

Try Deoxit maybe?

Thank you, I'll see about getting that. 

[Photekq]

I'm looking to get a second TKL PCB. Most likely the A87 or KMAC 1.4. I've just got a few questions.
1. Can I get toggle lock key LEDs (like the phantom) on either of these pcbs?
2. I noticed on WFD's KMAC video he didn't need to install any resistors for the LEDs (like on the phantom). Is this the same on the A87?
3. Is there an english guide for the A87 yet?
4. Does anyone have any other TKL recommendations? Must be programmable and USB.

[domoaligato]

I'm looking to get a second TKL PCB. Most likely the A87 or KMAC 1.4. I've just got a few questions.
1. Can I get toggle lock key LEDs (like the phantom) on either of these pcbs?
2. I noticed on WFD's KMAC video he didn't need to install any resistors for the LEDs (like on the phantom). Is this the same on the A87?
3. Is there an english guide for the A87 yet?
4. Does anyone have any other TKL recommendations? Must be programmable and USB.

A87 uses the ps2avr firmware
here is a link with A87 info & firmware
http://winkeyless.kr/entry/A87-ps2avr-%EA%B4%80%EB%A0%A8-%EC%9E%90%EB%A3%8C

bootloader flashing instructions:
http://winkeyless.kr/entry/%EB%B6%80%ED%8A%B8%EB%A1%9C%EB%8D%94%EB%A5%BC-%EC%9D%B4%EC%9A%A9%ED%95%9C-%ED%8E%8C%EC%9B%A8%EC%96%B4-%EB%8B%A4%EC%9A%B4%EB%A1%9C%EB%93%9C-%EB%B0%A9%EB%B2%95


A87 build/compile instructions
http://www3.kbdmania.net/xe/data/6240715

since the a87 uses ps2avr there is tons of different firmware builds on http://winkeyless.kr
with google translate I was able to figure out quite a bit from those pages.

I do not know much about the kmac other then the cases are sexy looking.

edit: assembly info? http://winkeyless.kr/entry/MXmini-ps2avr-%EA%B8%B0%ED%8C%90-%EC%A1%B0%EB%A6%BD-%EA%B0%80%EC%9D%B4%EB%93%9C

[Photekq]

Thank you for those links domo, they're very helpful. I notice that you can't program the A87 through USB.. so I think I'll avoid it and go for the KMAC PCB.

[esoomenona]

Is a mx lock switch's stem compatible with a standard switch's bottom housing ?

example: gh60 with a plate supporting removable top covers.
I solder in all mx reds but decide later I want a mx lock switch in the place of the left shift.
can I just replace the top cover/stem/spring or do I have to desolder and replace the entire switch?

My primary guess would be no based on looking at both from the outside. Here are some pictures of a disassembled one. Open one you have and compare? http://deskthority.net/wiki/Cherry_MX_Lock

[domoaligato]

Thank you for those links domo, they're very helpful. I notice that you can't program the A87 through USB.. so I think I'll avoid it and go for the KMAC PCB.

I do not want to derail this thread to far so here is a link to a thread here at geekhack to discuss this further.
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=44504.0

I wish I had one so I could port hasu's firmware to it since it is atmel based.

[domoaligato]

I have a simple question.
in hasu's firmware it specify's a boot magic key.
I have read the read.me files and it explains well what [magic] + key = function
but what is the magic key?
specifically for the keyboard\gh60 tree.

[jdcarpe]

I have a simple question.
in hasu's firmware it specify's a boot magic key.
I have read the read.me files and it explains well what [magic] + key = function
but what is the magic key?
specifically for the keyboard\gh60 tree.

I think be default it is programmed to be both Shifts + Pause. But you can program it to whatever you want, for instance if you don't have a Pause key on Layer 1.

[Photoelectric]

No luck in another thread, so I'll try here.

When cleaning metal parts in the switch housing with contact cleaners and using a no-residue cleaner, is it beneficial to use a lubricant / coating afterwards for corrosion-preventative measures?  For example, CRC 2-26:
"Multi-Purpose Lubricant is a plastic-safe lubricant, penetrant and corrosion inhibitor. This lubricant helps prevent electrical malfunctions and restore damaged equipment caused by water penetration, humidity, condensation and corrosion."

Or not really necessary?

Deoxit also has formulas that leave residue for a similar purpose (as well as formulas that just clean, without leaving any residue)

[CPTBadAss]

I don't see any Cons so why not?

[Photoelectric]

Only concerned about that coating possibly interacting with Krytox 103+201 in the long run.

ETA: found this neat thread

[megaforce]

Does anyone know the Pin out on the 4-Pin to mini USB converter chip on the QFR? Trying to solder a USB cable to it from my Phantom so I can use a detachable cable with the QFR case:

[CPTBadAss]

There's that little jumper cable that connects that USB daughter board to the controller. Couldn't you just plug that back in and see what color wires go on which pins?

[jdcarpe]

No luck in another thread, so I'll try here.

When cleaning metal parts in the switch housing with contact cleaners and using a no-residue cleaner, is it beneficial to use a lubricant / coating afterwards for corrosion-preventative measures?  For example, CRC 2-26:
"Multi-Purpose Lubricant is a plastic-safe lubricant, penetrant and corrosion inhibitor. This lubricant helps prevent electrical malfunctions and restore damaged equipment caused by water penetration, humidity, condensation and corrosion."

Or not really necessary?

Deoxit also has formulas that leave residue for a similar purpose (as well as formulas that just clean, without leaving any residue)

I was going to ask why you're worried about cleaning the non-contact parts of the metal contact blades, but then said to myself, "Self, this is Geekhack you're talking about."

I don't really think it will make one bit of difference either way.

Does anyone know the Pin out on the 4-Pin to mini USB converter chip on the QFR? Trying to solder a USB cable to it from my Phantom so I can use a detachable cable with the QFR case:

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Those pins match up to a Filco USB cable's Molex connector. So you could get the pinout from that, I would think.

[megaforce]

There's that little jumper cable that connects that USB daughter board to the controller. Couldn't you just plug that back in and see what color wires go on which pins?

I only got the case from someone, so it didn't come with the cable.

Those pins match up to a Filco USB cable's Molex connector. So you could get the pinout from that, I would think.

Thanks, I'll see if they match up.

[CPTBadAss]

Does anyone know the Pin out on the 4-Pin to mini USB converter chip on the QFR? Trying to solder a USB cable to it from my Phantom so I can use a detachable cable with the QFR case:

Show Image

Does this help?

[megaforce]

You are beautiful, beautiful man.

Thank you!

[CPTBadAss]

Hehe, I'm in the process of harvesting switches from this QFR. You caught me at a great time megaforce93

[nubbinator]

Hehe, I'm in the process of harvesting switches from this QFR. You caught me at a great time megaforce93

Please tell me you're doing something with the PCB.