What could be the cause of this issue?

[Lukeyslife]

Here is a screenshot link for the Hardware Monitor including temps and voltages:

http://s21.postimg.org/408enp5x3/screee.png

[Melvang]

Here is a screenshot link for the Hardware Monitor including temps and voltages:

http://s21.postimg.org/408enp5x3/screee.png

Voltages look to be WAY under spec.

+12 is at 8.016
+5 is at 3.145

I am thinking this is the majority of the issue

Do you have a volt meter that you can measure voltages with directly off the PSU with it out of the PC? 

All you have to do is disconnect ALL power cables from the PSU and put in a jumper between the green and any black wire on the big plug that feeds into the motherboard.  With the switch on the PSU on it will turn on as soon as you install the jumper. 

If you are getting close to these same numbers, the PSU is toast.  If you get normal numbers, it is either to close to max and is voltage is dropping due to efficiency dropping because to close to max loads.

[Lukeyslife]

Here is a screenshot link for the Hardware Monitor including temps and voltages:

http://s21.postimg.org/408enp5x3/screee.png

Voltages look to be WAY under spec.

+12 is at 8.016
+5 is at 3.145

I am thinking this is the majority of the issue

Do you have a volt meter that you can measure voltages with directly off the PSU with it out of the PC? 

All you have to do is disconnect ALL power cables from the PSU and put in a jumper between the green and any black wire on the big plug that feeds into the motherboard.  With the switch on the PSU on it will turn on as soon as you install the jumper. 

If you are getting close to these same numbers, the PSU is toast.  If you get normal numbers, it is either to close to max and is voltage is dropping due to efficiency dropping because to close to max loads.

I mean the PSU is only around maybe nearly 2 months old now, it was a new one because the old one (same model) was faulty the fan controller would go nuts randomly and make very loud noises like a grinding sound.

So do I need a bigger PSU?

I thought 650W was fine for my setup giving me enough head room

[Lukeyslife]

Here is a screenshot link for the Hardware Monitor including temps and voltages:

http://s21.postimg.org/408enp5x3/screee.png

Voltages look to be WAY under spec.

+12 is at 8.016
+5 is at 3.145

I am thinking this is the majority of the issue

Do you have a volt meter that you can measure voltages with directly off the PSU with it out of the PC? 

All you have to do is disconnect ALL power cables from the PSU and put in a jumper between the green and any black wire on the big plug that feeds into the motherboard.  With the switch on the PSU on it will turn on as soon as you install the jumper. 

If you are getting close to these same numbers, the PSU is toast.  If you get normal numbers, it is either to close to max and is voltage is dropping due to efficiency dropping because to close to max loads.

Also would it matter if it's plugged into a anti-surge extension socket, it's an extension socket which has around 5 sockets and 3 are taking up although only 2 are actually being used. I do have in my wall outlets 5 different sockets taken up would that affect anything?

[Melvang]

Here is a screenshot link for the Hardware Monitor including temps and voltages:

http://s21.postimg.org/408enp5x3/screee.png

Voltages look to be WAY under spec.

+12 is at 8.016
+5 is at 3.145

I am thinking this is the majority of the issue

Do you have a volt meter that you can measure voltages with directly off the PSU with it out of the PC? 

All you have to do is disconnect ALL power cables from the PSU and put in a jumper between the green and any black wire on the big plug that feeds into the motherboard.  With the switch on the PSU on it will turn on as soon as you install the jumper. 

If you are getting close to these same numbers, the PSU is toast.  If you get normal numbers, it is either to close to max and is voltage is dropping due to efficiency dropping because to close to max loads.

I mean the PSU is only around maybe nearly 2 months old now, it was a new one because the old one (same model) was faulty the fan controller would go nuts randomly and make very loud noises like a grinding sound.

So do I need a bigger PSU?

I thought 650W was fine for my setup giving me enough head room

That is why I am suggesting check it without anything plugged in.  It could also be bad voltage regulation on the motherboard.  Either way those voltages can't be in spec.

Here is a screenshot link for the Hardware Monitor including temps and voltages:

http://s21.postimg.org/408enp5x3/screee.png

Voltages look to be WAY under spec.

+12 is at 8.016
+5 is at 3.145

I am thinking this is the majority of the issue

Do you have a volt meter that you can measure voltages with directly off the PSU with it out of the PC? 

All you have to do is disconnect ALL power cables from the PSU and put in a jumper between the green and any black wire on the big plug that feeds into the motherboard.  With the switch on the PSU on it will turn on as soon as you install the jumper. 

If you are getting close to these same numbers, the PSU is toast.  If you get normal numbers, it is either to close to max and is voltage is dropping due to efficiency dropping because to close to max loads.

Also would it matter if it's plugged into a anti-surge extension socket, it's an extension socket which has around 5 sockets and 3 are taking up although only 2 are actually being used. I do have in my wall outlets 5 different sockets taken up would that affect anything?

I wouldn't think so.  The PSU is going to convert AC to DC and should be cleaning up the signal anyway.

[jacobolus]

All the voltages being off by 30% has to be way way out of spec. No wonder stuff is behaving wonky. In a properly functioning machine it shouldn’t ever get more than a few percent off.

I wonder if those numbers are accurate though. Can you test with a multimeter?

[Lukeyslife]

All the voltages being off by 30% has to be way way out of spec. No wonder stuff is behaving wonky. In a properly functioning machine it shouldn’t ever get more than a few percent off.

I wonder if those numbers are accurate though. Can you test with a multimeter?

I will ask my parents if they have one, I'm not 100% sure we will but I may be in luck

[munch]

it's not about how many watts you have, just so you don't go and buy something extremely overkill, but rather the quality of the power supply - how stable power it can deliver etc (simplifying it here ).
you should be fine with much less than 650w, as long as it is a good PSU.

[Oobly]

Those figures are WAY off what they should be, but I strongly suspect they're wrong. Many people have the same issue of voltages incorrectly reported and they seem to be somewhat similar to the ones you list, so it looks like the only way to see the actual values would be with a multimeter. The system wouldn't boot with 8v on the 12v lines.

And I was wrong about the 500W requirement, sorry, seems that 500W is the recommended minimum for your combination of CPU / GPU, so 650W still has some headroom. All the newer PSU's are switching to improve efficiency and include filtering and smoothing, so by the time the power is coming out the PSU it's been quite well conditioned. Quite often a faulty capacitor can cause problems, though. I have a Zalman 600W PSU that made one particular motherboard of mine really struggle to boot. Replaced a couple of capacitors with higher quality ones and hey presto, better than new

So I'm afraid we're not much closer to a solution yet, but I do think it has at least a little to do with regulation / smoothing / ripple / noise / interference on one of the lines.

[Lukeyslife]

Those figures are WAY off what they should be, but I strongly suspect they're wrong. Many people have the same issue of voltages incorrectly reported and they seem to be somewhat similar to the ones you list, so it looks like the only way to see the actual values would be with a multimeter. The system wouldn't boot with 8v on the 12v lines.

And I was wrong about the 500W requirement, sorry, seems that 500W is the recommended minimum for your combination of CPU / GPU, so 650W still has some headroom. All the newer PSU's are switching to improve efficiency and include filtering and smoothing, so by the time the power is coming out the PSU it's been quite well conditioned. Quite often a faulty capacitor can cause problems, though. I have a Zalman 600W PSU that made one particular motherboard of mine really struggle to boot. Replaced a couple of capacitors with higher quality ones and hey presto, better than new

So I'm afraid we're not much closer to a solution yet, but I do think it has at least a little to do with regulation / smoothing / ripple / noise / interference on one of the lines.

yeah last night I launched speed fan and the 12v rail was displaying 12.20v and I also read that HW monitor is very unreliable as far as voltages go.
However the 3.3v rail is always set to 2.49 in Speedfan so I'm guessing that could be the line which is the problem, the rest seem on par.

Also I forgot to mention in my OP that mid way through this ordeal, maybe exactly a year ago my mice felt worse than they did now A LOT worse.
I remember one time that I think my PC either rebooted or my PC had crashed or something, but the PC kind of glitched and the next time I used the PC the mouse felt completely different?

So from some weird power glitch it actually changed how it felt and has stayed that way ever since, back before this happened the mice felt even slower and less precise.

[Lukeyslife]

Hmmm I'm so confused ahaahha,

I unplugged my mouse around 3-4 times last night because of my PS/2 adapter didn't work so I gave up, now my mouse feels a lot better again for some reason.

I'm not bragging, but even when I have 85-95% accuracy in my mouse not even 100% I can destroy.

This images prove it's not placebo, just my natural aim etc.
It would just be nice to have 100% aim so I could let rip again  )

http://s17.postimg.org/obsav60r3/de_dust20003.jpg

[Lukeyslife]

Hi everyone,

So i'm back in a way ahaha.

So i've just been using my PC the way it is lately, I am now nearly sure it's something to do with power not just how the mouse feels but my speed of the PC overall.

I did notice when I originally installed my new RAM ages ago (1-2 years) the PC was way faster and the new CPU.
Since this problem had occurred I notices the PC felt slower.
Now today I decided I would plug my PC into a wall socket, I used to have it on a anti power surge extension (which has 5 sockets on it).
I plugged it in this morning and my PC instantly booted a lot faster and everything has sped up?.

I do have my modem and router all plugged into the same area, I'm wondering whether the wall sockets are being drained too much by different units (monitors, modem, router)

[Melvang]

Sounds like a cheap power strip

[heedpantsnow]

Usually computers behave weirdly when there are power issues. I've never, ever heard of one feeling slower because of power.

Could be a component or drive with intermittent problems that slows the OS due to wait states, theoretically exacerbated by power fluctuations. But I'd say it's a stretch.

[Lukeyslife]

Hi everyone again,

So on this issue I bought another gaming PC which I am aiming to sell, at the time I thought it would be a good idea to test the rig and see whether or not it was just my PC that forced mouse movements to feel off.
I'm not 100% sure about it being slightly placebo, I notice a difference movements feel sharper; BUT it feels the same so I have completely wiped my PC from being the cause which is great news.

The only bad news is that it is either to do with my monitor, or worse the power leading to the computer isn't good enough.

So yeah the mouse still feels off, I can make movements it feels almost smoothed out. When playing CSGO trying to make large movements it feels as if I hit a barrier and the mouse slows when I hit a certain point
it's extremely weird.
I'm guessing it has to be the monitor but I don't know how the monitor is causing the issue as such, is it just picking up mouse input wrong on screen in correlation to the GPU?
I will try another monitor even a TV just to compare I'm hoping this should finally nail it down.