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Hi! I live near a shop that is totally metal! I have quotes to make ergodox cases!
Sort of.
Edit, June 1st 2014
Waterjet shop was a miscommunication and will not be pursued further. Instead, I will use the same shop used in round one -- good workmanship, and switchtop removal cutouts are a given.
I still have all the orders added to the form while I was investigating the waterjet shop; feel free to PM if using this laser shop changes anything.
End Edit May 2014
This is a group buy for 1.5mm (16 gauge, 6061) aluminum or stainless steel (304) laser cut cases using Litster's layered-ergodox design. This is the expected thickness proscribed by Cherry for use as a plate, and that was the primary reason for my pursuing this particular thickness for the entire case.
Except upon further reflection (http://adereth.github.io/blog/2014/02/12/building-an-ergodox/) (thanks to tbc for finding that) I've seen that, alone, these almost certainly won't be enough to make a complete case -- you'll need something to use as standoffs. Extra M3 nuts, or a gasket made of silicone -- your choice but I'm keeping my GB simple, which means:
I won't be including standoffs or even screws. Since this is about minimalism, and since I personally was inspired by swill's 'minimalist' case thread, I will also be collecting for / creating a two-layer form. Just layer '5', which is the bottom that sits on the desk, and the plate, known as layer three.
I don't have any pictures linked because I'm at work and also lazy. See thread though. Also I don't have a camera worthy of the name. But I've seen things online that have the texture and color of what I saw. Gentleman (http://geekhack.org/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=53013.0;attach=52753;image), behold! MACHINED ALUMINUM (http://geekhack.org/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=53013.0;attach=52754;image)!!
So, yeah. I'm going ahead with this.
Prices:
These are after local taxes but before paypal or shipping.
Aluminum: Classic, $35.50, or $39 full-hand.
Feeling inspired by swill's "minimalist case" I'm offering a minimal case: base, and switch plate only. $14.25 ($20.50 to include the top cover -- consider JD's 'spacer') -- that's in classic, or $16 for full-hand style, $23 for the 'extended minimalst' that includes the top cover.
Spacer kit: same 16 gauge metal, just enough to help keep electronics from touching anything. Seven or eight will be needed per keyboard: $30.50 / $34.85
And on to the ever popular stainless steel:
Classic, $61, Full hand $66.50.
minimalist classic, $28 or $40 with top-cover
minimalst full-hand, $30 or $45 with top-cover
Spacer kits in stainless steel, $61 for seven, or $70 for eight.
Shipping: I'll be using my own boxes preferentially, rather than 'flat rate' boxes -- eventually costs will catch up with the latter, but until then, costs should be close to the following:
$12 base price: CONUS, one case, aluminum
add $2 per extra case, and $2 if you're getting stainless steel.
for many countries, same math but double the numbers. I'll get an estimate from USPS' site before billing you, as farther countries do indeed cost more.
I'm using .dxf files from MOZ that have both the switchtop-removal cutouts as well as the universal stab-holes. At this time I do not have[E*] full-hand .dxf layer-3 files that have universal stab holes so if someone wants to update that before whichever followup round includes the fullhand form of everything above, I'd really appreciate it.
- EDIT: found & saved. When I include Full-Hand, they'll have universal stab holes.
This is, indeed, my first GB, but my second round of providing cases. PM your questions, or post them in this thread.
Order form here (https://docs.google.com/forms/d/1YptO5tAL8oB3o1pFPh5-KUk9Pescvsa_8xJv7BebxGA/viewform)
Any questions, ask them here or PM me.
* I'm not saying I'm making money, but I won't say I'm not making any money. I have a quote, but sometimes stuff happens. Nobody wants to lose their shirt so my first priority is to be fair to everyone -- including me. As it says on my order form, if these prices are wildly inaccurate, something will have to be done about that. I'm only saying this because of my 1st-gb-jitters but I want to say it anyway.
edit on timing: I think I'd rather have shorter cycles repeated, rather than make everybody wait until Christmas for their cases.
Edit for June 15th: Round two closing tonight. Invoices seem caught up, most (but not all) have paid. I'll be back soon to edit the list of who's getting what.
More
Historical content from the 1st GB
First edit: we've hit she shop's MOQ, and as I plan to do at least one more round, we have the option of calling end-of-orders by 3/16, payment due by then too. Hasn't been called that way, but I'm leaning toward it.
second edit While not everyone wants to go ahead with the "needs standoffs" design, enough have contacted me that I'm invoicing now. About three cases at most I think -- PM me if you want in on what we got, now!! and of course I will update OP when JD finishes his work on this design.
third edit THANK YOU JD we have spacers. It'll probably work. :-\
folks who have paid are in on round one, and I've ordered exactly one copy (well, seven copies but that's one kit) in aluminum, of JD's spacer. Don't know what it'll cost yet. Current estimates are, that she shop will be done on Monday; that might delay shipping 'til the following weekend but I'll keep you all in the loop.
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Edit May 9th:
I've spoken with the project manager; flu is going through the office so that's part of the delays. The fact their 6KW laser broke is another part.
The project manager would like to pass along, that the laser can cause "case hardening" or bluing, of the stainless steel -- so if you try to paint it, it won't stick to that surface unless treated with very fine sandpaper first, to ever laser-cut edge.
I really am in the list, he assures me. Spacer kit from R-1 should be done soon and he's taking orders for laser cutting again. Thank you everyone, for your patience.
Because the ergodox is metal.
More
Older, less-relevant edits:
April 4th EDIT Cleaned, boxed, and in my car. Really. USD$368 to the shop for everything -- including my SS-classic order. I'll be spending some time after stuff is mailed, to closely examine my guesses, and adjust things accordingly. I think I was a little low, but pretty close overall.
_--^^--_
we're having a small "round one" whose parts have been finished. Keep your eyes on this, and the above post, for information about round two. To quote Spamaray, "This could be epic!
JD's spacer has been included, sans quote, but I have high hopes. If you have ordered, and want me to wait to ship your case until you've seen what pictures I can provide of the case with spacers, PM me or comment in-thread.
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Entered info but weren't right at their keyboard for "a small round one" :
Tarzan SS-classic, x1
ShrapneL SS-minimalist x1
pd_snipe SS-classic
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also: JDcarpe, The_Chemist waiting on spacers
and also: Mashby cancelled but I still have your info if you change your mind :-*
agodinhost Alum-classic x2 + SS-minimalist x3
latin00032 SS-minimalist x1
Lugoues SS-classic x1
steam_bread SS-minimalist
lkong classic, aluminum (spacer kit specified)
slickmamba aluminum-minimalist (spacer kit specified)
YUIOP full-hand-SS
geniekid classic, spacers, stainless steel
eviltobz aluminum classic (spacer kit specified)
witbliz aluminum classic (spacer kit specified)
imamofothief aluminum classic
ClickClack123 Aluminum Minimalist
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I don't even have an ergodox now I want one so can buy an aluminum case for it :P
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Ordered.
:cool:
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I will wait for this to be available for international buyers :(
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I will wait for this to be available for international buyers :(
understood.
What country are you in? I'll ask, when it rolls around that I'm at the post office, "what would it take to send this to X, instead?"
Same for other interested buyers ... let me know where you are so I can get accurate shipping numbers.
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is there any picture of drawings for this?
10 layers is 5 layers each hand and 4 layers is 2 layers each hand?
i'm from Malaysia.
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Ordered. Thanks for this!
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[...]
Because of a few reasons, this GB, I ask, be CONUS only. Now, I'm not going to strictly enforce that, but what will have to happen for international buyers is I'll have to wait to get a real-world shipping quote, and then I'll have to invoice you a 2nd time for the difference.
[...]
:eek:
Well... I'll be patient then! Also, we non-CONUS-ers could leverage from the early adopter by seeing their pictures :)
So, someone... please get a stainless steel one and make pics! :p :thumb:
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so essentially the 2 layer per hand case is a skeleton case with a plate, base, and standoffs(not provided) between the two layers? am i understanding that correctly? not bad though
will probably order at these prices, cant really resist as an ergodox enthusiast, love building these things.
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10 layers is 5 layers each hand and 4 layers is 2 layers each hand?
so essentially the 2 layer per hand case is a skeleton case with a plate, base, and standoffs(not provided) between the two layers?
Yes, that's correct. All things considered I'm a fan of plate mounted, hard clicky keyswitches so all the designs assume a plate. I'll probably put green MX's into mine.
Y'know, just to be contrary.
Ellit, you're in GERmany ? Deutchland? Okay, EU countries it is ... I hope to get to you in round 2.
And there is a SS case ordered, so pictures should be possible.
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[...]
Elllit, you're in GERmany ? Deutchland? Okay, EU countries it is ... I hope to get to you in round 2.
Yes, Deutschland. ;)
And there is a SS case ordered, so pictures should be possible.
Cool! I'm hoping on awesomeness with the stainless steel :thumb:
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What country are you in? I'll ask, when it rolls around that I'm at the post office, "what would it take to send this to X, instead?"
Same for other interested buyers ... let me know where you are so I can get accurate shipping numbers.
i'm potentially interested in the complete classic case in aluminium and i'm based in the U.K. if you get a chance to find out accurate pricing, but i'm pretty happy to wait for a second round if you're not able to :)
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Ok I am little confused here. In the OP you put
6061 aluminum, 4 layers, same files as the whole classic case, $23 shipped*
so that means 2 layers per hand this would cover left and right hand. In the order form Minamalist case -- bottom and plate layer only ($23/ea)
is that each per side or per left and right hand? I ask because in the SS portion you specify Minimalist; base and plate, left and right. $32
but don't in the Aluminum version.
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The steel version sounded really cool, but since this is my first ErgoDox, I opted for the less expensive aluminum one.
You mention in the OP that this GB won't include standoffs. For newbs like me, where does that fit into the design/build of the case?
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the standoffs would only be for the skeleton 2 layer case to go in between the plate the the bottom , If he used MOZ litster revision the 10 layer case will just require some M3 thread bolts and nuts.
i was thinking, you know for the 2 layer case you could potentially have an acrylic layer cut (for each hand) to go on the top covering the electrics, with another standoff between the plate and the top. Smoke would look awesome. just saying....
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I ask because in the SS portion you specify Minimalist; base and plate, left and right. $32
but don't in the Aluminum version.
Both metals are the same combination of pieces, just different metals. Sorry to confuse. Left and right for both 304 and 6061, yes.
You mention in the OP that this GB won't include standoffs. For newbs like me, where does that fit into the design/build of the case?
In my case, I plan on buying a few sheets (http://www.rubbersheetroll.com/silicone-rubber-commercial-grade.html) of 1/16th inch silicone rubber and cutting it to shape with a razor, then jamming the M3 screws through it.
Another form that would work, is going to a local hardware store that carries computer class of screws (so, small metal bolts, not wood screws or sheet metal screws, though they probably carry those too) and seeing if they have standoffs ... either hollow tubes with an inside diameter to let the M3 sit inside, and the PCB, or other layers, would rest against that tube. Or like how motherboards are held off the case, with double ended screws ... just stack those until all the parts are both attached, and not touching.
the standoffs would only be for the skeleton 2 layer case to go in between the plate the the bottom , If he used MOZ litster revision the 10 layer case will just require some M3 thread bolts and nuts.
i was thinking, you know for the 2 layer case you could potentially have an acrylic layer cut (for each hand) to go on the top covering the electrics, with another standoff between the plate and the top. Smoke would look awesome. just saying....
As to not using standoffs ... considering the difficulty that one guy had using layers twice this thick, I'm betting it won't quite fit without some real hoop jumping.
But adding acrylic of the "expected" thickness, to flesh out the minimalist case into a full case would be almost effective, and very handsome in smoke-gray. But I've had exactly zero luck finding places that will cut acrylic, and also you might consider that between the plate and the PCB, there will be an air gap, exposing the lower half of the switches. You might want to fill that with something -- again, I'm going for thin silicone sheets but I'm sure there are other ways to achieve that.
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I just put in for an order of 2x Aluminum minimalist sets but when I was checking out a required field on the SS portion wanted me to put a number ( More than one? ) even though I didn't order an SS case. Also there isn't an option for 0 in the drop down ( and you can't leave it blank either ) only 1,2,3,4, so I had to put 1 in that field even tough I didn't order one.
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I just put in for an order of 2x Aluminum minimalist sets but when I was checking out a required field on the SS portion wanted me to put a number ( More than one? ) even though I didn't order an SS case. Also there isn't an option for 0 in the drop down ( and you can't leave it blank either ) only 1,2,3,4, so I had to put 1 in that field even tough I didn't order one.
Don't worry it isn't as confusing to me as it sounds. There's nothing in the "what kind of case" field, so it shows you're ordering one of nothing, which is what you wanted.
Alternately, someone else added into the "complex numbers" a note that, actually, that was a zero.
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i just realized i have the parts to make a sample "skeleton" case i put it , im one of the few people who has a round one aluminium case, the case was crap but the plate layer was still good. When i have a chance ill try it out and take pictures
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i just realized i have the parts to make a sample "skeleton" case i put it , im one of the few people who has a round one aluminium case, the case was crap but the plate layer was still good. When i have a chance ill try it out and take pictures
Thanks Glod! I think that would help all of us making decisions about which case to get.
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ok i built the skeleton case with the 4 aluminium layers and it looks really good, and looks even better with a acrylic top layer i had spare (which could be any thickness if somehow another buy popped up like MOZ for just the tops only)
having to work right now and cant take a picture but ill have pictures later of my visualization of it, hopefully it matches what AKmalamute is thinking.
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One simple approach to spacing each 1.5mm plate
would be to use some nuts which match the bolts
being used to hold the thing together. If this is sized
for M3 bolts (like MassDrop case) then a plain M3 nut
has a height of 2.4mm. 1.5mm plate + 2.4mm nut = 3.9mm.
Two nuts = 4.8mm. Seems like it should be fine-grained
enough to allow clearances to be maintained without
wasting a lot of space.
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yeah, thats correct, i used 2 nuts between the layers
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Hey, JD, where do you get your standoffs from for your 40% case? Would that work for this?
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can I order 1.5 of these (three hands worth)? I want an extra RH for my gamepad.
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Hey, JD, where do you get your standoffs from for your 40% case? Would that work for this?
Yes, they should work. I just need to measure how much space there needs to be between the top and bottom plates. I get mine from McMaster-Carr.
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Hey, JD, where do you get your standoffs from for your 40% case? Would that work for this?
Yes, they should work. I just need to measure how much space there needs to be between the top and bottom plates. I get mine from McMaster-Carr.
Thanks! :thumb:
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ok the pictures i promised of the skeleton case which i am hoping represents AKmalamute idea of 4 layers. 2 nuts work find you shouldnt need to buy standoffs unless you really wanted to.
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2771/13024883133_5a7f648b6e.jpg) (http://flic.kr/p/kQXVYz)
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3510/13025109794_747d70cb8b.jpg) (http://flic.kr/p/kQZ6mw)
going to have to ignore the spikes coming out because its holding a acrylic layer on top, i really like this look, the combo
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3414/13025071414_e48d464787.jpg) (http://flic.kr/p/kQYTWN)
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3575/13025096514_10f264b30d.jpg) (http://flic.kr/p/kQZ2py)
a full album of the skeleton case is here, i took plenty of pictures
http://www.flickr.com/photos/panicfx/sets/72157642076917945/
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Looks awesome Glod!
Edit: Just ordered! Left a little note haha -_-
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damn looks awesome glod. thanks for the pics.
Seeing everything in pics makes me wonder why the original litster even had anything above the plate layer in the first place. originally, i thought it might have been a structural issue, but now it seems like it was just an aesthetic thing.
from now on, i'm thinking that I will just use the switch plate(stock acrylic), add in the two nuts and just stack all the other layers underneath for both my stock acyrlic case and the metal case
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Doubt I'm going to get my case anodized, so I'll be going for the stainless steel version. Anyone else in with me as well? :)
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Doubt I'm going to get my case anodized, so I'll be going for the stainless steel version. Anyone else in with me as well? :)
I'd rather have the mass of SS myself, so ... yes. I just have to remember to order an "extra" set when I place the orders.
Thanks for your pictures, Glod. Yes, I think that does mostly look like what I was expecting it to look like. Kind of. You're using a thicker metal, so this would be a bit like a phantom with plate, and with another plate below it.
I think.
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If it's that thin how is the 5 layers going to add up for the complete case? The litster case uses a plate thick enough to be flush with the pcb. Should work fine for the skeleton case though (sorry can't stop using the term lol).
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If it's that thin how is the 5 layers going to add up for the complete case? The litster case uses a plate thick enough to be flush with the pcb. Should work fine for the skeleton case though (sorry can't stop using the term lol).
I think using nuts between the layers might do it, but it might look kinda weird.
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it doesn't add up.
everyone is going to need to add bumpers between the layers.
something i noticed when i read about someone sourcing their own case to be thinner than the litster case.
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Is it possible to order 2 sets and just combine the same 1.5mm layers to create 5x 3mm layers?
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Is it possible to order 2 sets and just combine the same 1.5mm layers to create 5x 3mm layers?
I have pretty high confidence in this shop's laser -- as I said in the interest check thread, I was shown a block of quarter inch aluminum with a single hole in the middle, made as a demonstration to a potential customer that they could save drilling time and get straight to threading the lasered bolt hole.
So, yes the holes should all line up even if you stack them like that -- and by all rights you should be able to save on shipping, but since I don't know how much these things will weigh yet, I don't know what shipping will end up looking like.
I'll figure something out. Go ahead and order two sets -- just don't try to combine aluminum and stainless :p since having the layers rub against each other ... I don't know, I guess they're not energized but I thought you weren't supposed to do things like that since it encouraged oxidation, and would also produce small, random electrical charges or something.
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For round 2, could this (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=22780.msg1039390#msg1039390) universal plate design be cut to allow for switching between classic and full hand cases?
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For round 2, could this (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=22780.msg1039390#msg1039390) universal plate design be cut to allow for switching between classic and full hand cases?
That post has the full-hand with-universal-stabs cutouts that I've been looking for. Of course .dwg doesn't have units so american machines want to print that thing out at nearly three meters across unless you know where to warn the device that's not true.
As to the adapter ... hmm. I might try it myself during round one or something. I'm not a fan of the full-hand design myself because of furniture choices available to me but maybe I could sell off the resulting keyboard in the classifieds. If I go that route I'll try to post something that look like pictures.
Anyway Loligagger thank you for finding the file I've been looking for since October. That is a very long thread to look through all of.
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I'm also interested in this.. will be keeping a lookout for an international round:)
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That post has the full-hand with-universal-stabs cutouts that I've been looking for. Of course .dwg doesn't have units so american machines want to print that thing out at nearly three meters across unless you know where to warn the device that's not true.
As to the adapter ... hmm. I might try it myself during round one or something. I'm not a fan of the full-hand design myself because of furniture choices available to me but maybe I could sell off the resulting keyboard in the classifieds. If I go that route I'll try to post something that look like pictures.
Anyway Loligagger thank you for finding the file I've been looking for since October. That is a very long thread to look through all of.
No problem. Another question, since getting two sets to double the cases thickness has been brought up, what about extra spacer (or bottom/top) layers to make up the full 21mm thickness you'd get with the standard acrylic case?
Since a fullhand case would probably be quite heavy, perhaps hollow out the middle layers to save on weight?
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i will be waiting patiently....haha!
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So, this "test round" hasn't exactly exploded, but we are above MOQ for the shop ... do the brave souls thusly committed want to start invoicing, and close a week early?
If we want to do this now, I'd start invoicing and leave orders open 'til my midnight of the 16th, call the order in on monday and hopefully have it done by friday the twenty first.
Or if you were all expecting this to hit your next paycheck let me know, I can let it percolate a time longer, too.
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Could I also get a top layer on the 4 layer aluminum version? making it a 6 layer ( top | plate | bottom ) this way it has some rigidity? Let me know if that could be an option.
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Could I also get a top layer on the 4 layer aluminum version? making it a 6 layer ( top | plate | bottom ) this way it has some rigidity? Let me know if that could be an option.
I think so ... prorated by surface area, as I understand it, at least in this case. So half-again $$ at least for the production half.
Do you want that for both copies you've ordered?
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Although I placed an order, I'm a little unsure how this case is supposed to work.
According to the link in the OP, "The design used in Massdrop’s kit uses 3mm sheets for the top and bottom and 5mm sheets for the middle 3 layers" With your design we have 5 sheets all at 1.5mm. Unless I'm mistaken, it sounds like the case is too small. Am I wrong?
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Although I placed an order, I'm a little unsure how this case is supposed to work.
According to the link in the OP, "The design used in Massdrop’s kit uses 3mm sheets for the top and bottom and 5mm sheets for the middle 3 layers" With your design we have 5 sheets all at 1.5mm. Unless I'm mistaken, it sounds like the case is too small. Am I wrong?
I also stated you'd need standoffs, of which Glod pictured an example using his MD alu. case and extra nuts on the M3 screws. I'd planned, for my part, to make silicone gaskets to act as those standoffs. But you're right, this would not be tall enough to make your ergodox a solid block of aluminum.
My main consideration is the plate ... I insist it be 1.5mm. That means an air gap without some hoop jumping, ergo the silicone. I figured if I'm jumping hoops anyway, I'd keep the machining simple and just use the same metal all the way through.
Now, for round two, once I have a better feel for this whole thing, I may open it up for more thicknesses but that will of course heighten both the material cost, probably laser time, and shipping cost because metal is heavy.
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Totally missed the photos Glod posted, sorry about that.
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Could I also get a top layer on the 4 layer aluminum version? making it a 6 layer ( top | plate | bottom ) this way it has some rigidity? Let me know if that could be an option.
I think so ... prorated by surface area, as I understand it, at least in this case. So half-again $$ at least for the production half.
Do you want that for both copies you've ordered?
Yes please.
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After reading the first post again I realized you are not completely excluding international orders.
Having you invoice me a second time for the shipment cost is not a problem, though it might be nice to know the (very) approximate shipment cost..
Can you please confirm that you will take international orders ? (Norway)
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Just to confirm; if I'm ordering the 10-layer SS kit, that will include all the required layers to encase two Ergodox PCBs? Or I'll still need standoffs (or layers of alternate material) to fill in some gaps?
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Can you please confirm that you will take international orders ? (Norway)
Sure, I can do it. But ...
Not knowing where you were, I used Oslo (postal code 10) as an example -- should be in the ballpark, right? UPS quoted $175, or so. Uhh ... did I make a mistake?
DHL could do it for $140+ depending on certain details.
Ouch.
Fortunately, our post office says, based on the same description of "about a square foot, about 3 pounds" our government folk will ship it to that same postal code for under fifty USD. Not much under, but there you have it. $50, some of which is already in my prices so probably $40 on the 2nd billing.
Just to confirm; if I'm ordering the 10-layer SS kit, that will include all the required layers to encase two Ergodox PCBs? Or I'll still need standoffs (or layers of alternate material) to fill in some gaps?
It will have five layers per hand, but no bolts, and no standoffs. All layers have been quoted to me (to you) as 16 gauge metal, which is about the same thickness as the PCB itself. The switches will be very happy, no glue required. But to keep the solder points off the all-metal case, you'll need about four times as many nuts, as you're buying in bolts.
That cost me less than $5 at my local hardware store, but then again there's a specialty store here that only sells bolts and screws so ymmv.
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the problem (if you want to see it as one) is that at that thickness, it means you don't have a completely enclosed case which is what i think people think they are getting in this, i think they are thinking only the 4 layer case will require spacers but you'll need spacers for the 10 layer case as well.
the top two layers and the plate you can get away with them being this thin, you'll need to solder the teensy right on the pcb and remove the teensy pin spacers,
but its the spacing between the plate and the bottom of the case that is the issue, at this thickness you'll need 3 or 4 or even 5 spacer/hollow layers to make it a fully enclosed case, because you have to account for the solder points sticking out and you cant have the solder points touch the bottom of the case, so youll have to buy either some cylinders or standoffs to do this.
i still say its worth it
1. if you already have an acrylic ergodox, this will make it look better by replacing the top two layers and bottom layers with metal - see http://flic.kr/p/e9K942 (very old picture, when i first built one)
2. If this is your first case, the standoffs seriously shouldn't look that bad, it will look better than my sample photo which was just to prove you could do spacing just fine
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i still say its worth it
I came to the same conclusion, and figured there were some here who would agree.
Now, as to the "enclosed" part -- It'll bug me. A little. But I'm going to make gaskets and pin them in place with the layers from this GB, and I think it both will work well, and since the silicone I'm eying is bright red, will look kinda cool too.
It's layer four, I think it's called, right below the PCB, that really needs to be extra thick. Then an extra shim of some sort could go between layer three, and the layer above that, #2, to keep the Teensy from shorting out or squishing the fairly-tall TRRS connector. I'm going to ask about that, once I collect the parts from this round.
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oh you'll need to cover stuff up with some electrical tape or thick vinyl that is not conductive, youll also have to shave down the trrs a little bit because its thicker than plate is, The other soltution.... just directly solder wires to TRRS holes and call it a day, i suggest 22 Gauge hook up wire and hook it in the holes and solder good, it will never come disconnected EVER, you can sleave the 4 wires and make it look ok. I would know because my metal ergodox i did it and its shown in the pictures earlier. that is of course if you are ok not having the wire disconnect, but it solves any problem of contact with a metal case.
edit now that i think about it and looking at that thinner acrylic case mentioned in the OP, you will HAVE to directly solder the wires into the TRRS holes if you are using a slim case. so again, i suggest hook up wire, it worked great for me.
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Is it possible to get a couple "spacer" plates in the correct places for the 10-layer case? I can draw them up this week, if you need. Otherwise, I might drop my order for that one. I do think the layers need to stay 1.5mm.
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Is it possible to get a couple "spacer" plates in the correct places for the 10-layer case? I can draw them up this week, if you need. Otherwise, I might drop my order for that one. I do think the layers need to stay 1.5mm.
It would change the price, of course.
I made cardboard cutouts trying to visualize is, say layer 4 could be used "over and over again" to act as spacers. But there's one more place where you need one, and that's below the plate but touching the PCB -- it would need to be "thinner" than even layer four is.
Take a stab at it, would you? The absolute ideal would be to have "pieces" secured by a bolt in the middle and maybe a jigsaw shape to attach to the next piece ... then you wouldn't need a giant plate most of which gets tossed into recycling.
I'll see if I can find my cardboard cutouts again; maybe layer four will work.
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you could break the spacer layer into "puzzle pieces" to save on waste of cutting out such a large piece of scrap metal., that layer out of all the other layers in the litster case can be broken up, i would know because i accidentally broke one of my acrylic layer 4 into 3 pieces and it still works fine
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I'll definitely take a look at it and see what we can do to make this complete.
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So, this "test round" hasn't exactly exploded, but we are above MOQ for the shop ... do the brave souls thusly committed want to start invoicing, and close a week early?
I think it's because of your preference for CONUS only and no full hand yet.
that's whats me keeping me from this round at least
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I'll definitely take a look at it and see what we can do to make this complete.
Thank you.
For the rest of you, do you want to proceed? Do you want to proceed now? I can put this on hiatus until someone with CAD skills (such as JD) finishes enough work to make a complete case out of lasered metal, but if you're not scared off by having to make your own standoff, we have seven people some of whom have ordered multiples -- again, the order as a whole is above the shop's MOQ so we could proceed.
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Glod, how much space is needed between the top plate and the switch plate, probably a minimum of 3mm, and that's with no TRRS connector and flush mounting the Teensy?
What about below the PCB to the bottom plate, is 1.5mm enough, or would 3mm be safer?
From the bottom of the 1.5mm switch plate to the PCB is another gap of what, 3mm?
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From the bottom of the 1.5mm switch plate to the PCB is another gap of what, 3mm?
As measured on my phantom ... I don't have calipers. But I'm pretty sure it's like, about 2. Closer to 1.5 I think, than 3.
definitely measurable by keyswitch drawings, though -- as that's what's holding the two apart, just the switch's "click" point in the middle.
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According to the Cherry spec sheet for MX switches, the distance from the plate mount point to the bottom of the switch, where the PCB mounts, is 5mm. So if there is a 1.5mm switch plate, there will be a gap of 3.5mm between that plate and the PCB. Then from the PCB to the bottom plate there is some gap for pins, etc. So we just need to figure out how much space we really need between the switch plate and the bottom plate, and make spacers for that. The original ErgoDox case is 21mm thick, but I don't think it necessarily needs to be that thick.
AK, can the metal shop get material in different thickness, such as 2mm, 3mm, or 5mm?
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AK, can the metal shop get material in different thickness, such as 2mm, 3mm, or 5mm?
It'd be a pretty unimpressive shop if they couldn't, though it's most readily available in "gauges" or probably inch-fractions.
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Okay I hate to double post this soon but I haven't heard a yea or a nay. For the design as it sits now, who wants to go ahead this week, and who wants to hold off for someone (presumably JD) to finish the mid-layer adapter pieces?
If I don't hear anything, I'll hold off at least the week as per my OP, or if you're wanting a "complete case" I can just plan to hold off further.
My own ergodox project is stalled anyway, since I seem not to have properly connected the teensy -- assuming I didn't melt it or something. Like I melted (well, snapped in half) my soldering iron. But aquakeys says row three is not connected so ... I'm in a little less of a hurry than I was a month ago.
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Can you please confirm that you will take international orders ? (Norway)
Sure, I can do it. But ...
Not knowing where you were, I used Oslo (postal code 10) as an example -- should be in the ballpark, right? UPS quoted $175, or so. Uhh ... did I make a mistake?
DHL could do it for $140+ depending on certain details.
Ouch.
Fortunately, our post office says, based on the same description of "about a square foot, about 3 pounds" our government folk will ship it to that same postal code for under fifty USD. Not much under, but there you have it. $50, some of which is already in my prices so probably $40 on the 2nd billing.
Yeah, USPS is usually what I choose;P
~50$ is Ok by me, I've ordered using the form.
I'm located in Trondheim, Norway, but I think shipping will not be very different compared to Oslo.
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Yeah, USPS is usually what I choose;P
~50$ is Ok by me, I've ordered using the form.
I'm located in Trondheim, Norway, but I think shipping will not be very different compared to Oslo.
Fantastic; let's make this happen.
If everything goes as smooth as silk I hope to have R1 in the mail in about nine days. Keep your fingers crossed, everybody!
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I'm flexible on the timing. I'm just happy someone has taken on the task of getting cases made, so if we need to wait another week that's ok with me.
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Okay, so I've updated the 2nd post, but if you're wanting in on the "small round one" let me know, I'll invoice you right now so I can place your order on Monday.
If not, but you're still interested -- that's fine too! We'll need to make sure "round two" can hit the shop's MOQ as well, though I expect that with input from pictures and buyers the community will have ideas on how to improve future orders.
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I have a spacer layer drawn up, but it's on my work PC. It should work for both hands, and several layers will be needed to fill all the gaps in the 10-layer case. Maybe they should be made of thicker metal? But the price may be less, since there will be one design with multiple copies across all orders for interested people.
I think I myself would like 6 copies of the spacer if made in 3mm thickness.
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I look forward to it.
Considering the project manager has been a bit slow to respond at times, mostly due to, as he puts it, "babysitting" his workers, I'm not going to make too many promises about when we'll be able to make the spacers but we have enough of a round one going that I'll know what I'm doing logistically when the time comes.
In the mean time, can I just say seeing this project move forward has me super excited (http://img3.wikia.nocookie.net/__cb20120131232205/mlp/images/8/88/Pinkie_Pie_flailing_arms_S2E15.png)? Cuz I am.
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From, my experience, thus far from drawing acrylic cases, the distance between the top of the mounting plate to the top of the base plate has to be a bare minimum of 9mm, since cherry spec says 8.3mm to the pins (5mm from switch plate top to PCB top and 3.3 from PCB top to pin bottom). Now, on my acrylic cases, the layers are generally about 2.8mm thick, so I use 4 layers besides the base layer. The height of the Teensy is about 6mm minimum (1.6mm PCB, 4mm USB connector, some pins), which is also the height of the TRRS connector. This is one of the problems with the ErgoDox, the Teensy mounted ontop, means you get wasted space, both above and below and the mounting plate.
So taking the switch mounting plate as base, I think 2mm above up-till the bottom of the top plate should suffice (Flush mounted Teeensy), and 10mm below up to the top the base plate.
Upto 6mm for TRRS, 4mm for USB above top of PCB level is required to be cutout in the layer for access to connector, and 1mm below top of PCB level for TRRS.
My recommendation:
1.5mm top
3mm spacer (TRRS access)
1.5mm mounting plate (TRRS & USB access)
3mm spacer (TRRS & USB access)
3mm/1.5mm spacer (TRRS & USB access) -- 1.5mm might be tight fit, chances of shorting, no space for insulating liner.
3mm spacer
1.5mm base
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for stupid people like me, you saying we need a total of 22 plates for two hands (when choosing 3mm for safety against shorting)?
I could get away with 16 total if I leave nothing above the plate I guess. Any reason against leaving the connectors exposed if I'm not shoving this thing into a bag where the connectors be get physically dented/knocked loose?
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14 total, not 24.
Top plates are for protection of Teensy and connector and also the MCP23018.
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14 total, not 24.
Top plates are for protection of Teensy and connector and also the MCP23018.
sorry, wasn't being specific enough.
I meant 22 1.5mm plates (so THIS gb assuming the spacer plates aren't being included)
by protection, you mean things like screwdrivers aimed directly at the teensy or water spills (user error) rather than 'wear and tear' from the environment itself(like some sort of oxidation)? I'm pretty sure that the GON skinny with exposed PCB works fine, but I just want to make sure.
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Primarily, but there is also the question of dust.
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I think this will work as a spacer layer...
(http://i.imgur.com/IBrE085.png)
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Good design to save space, and still provide almost complete protection as the original design.
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Order has been placed, and I've included JDcarpe's spacer, to the tune of seven copies. Hopefully it'll be less than a $30 addition but I'll let you know.
Order came in late enough today that he says it probably will be next week on a Monday when I can pick them up.
Thanks for helping make this happen, guys. I'm super excited.
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I can't wait for round2 when it happens. My wife has a possible source on acrylic but her source is starting to ask questions I can't answer and it's kind of stalled. This is turning out to be a rather spartan but functional cost effective option. I am tempted by the 3 layer option and might look into having the layers done in burnt bronze Cerakote. Like so...
(http://www.wdwti.com/assets/galleries/4/2.jpg)
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What questions regarding acrylic, I might be able to help.
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I had to dig back through my email but this is a quote for the last round of questions.
"Ok I guess that wasn’t a dumb question afterall? If he could get a sketch from those files that indicates the actual dimensions that would be best because even if he tells us it is metric or inches we would still not know if the files are 100% or not. I always ask for dimensions to be sure. A lot of strange things occur when emailing cad files and believe me, I think I have seen them all!"
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That seems more like a general concern regarding the drawing being not being transferred correctly, than anything else.
For a plate it is hard to submit dimensions since there are so many elements, however it is still possible to give some dimensions as a tool to make sure the file transferred correctly.
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Understandable but never having seen an Ergodox first hand I'm not sure what the expected dimensions would be aside from the various layer thickness based on data I've managed to dig up here and there.
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Usually when they say there are no dimensions, they want to know if the units of measure are inches or millimeters. There are of course units specified in the drawing, but the shop doesn't know if it's 180 inches, or what. In the case of those ErgoDox drawings, they are in millimeters (at least the ones I have are).
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I'm using the Lister drawings.
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Right, those should be in mm.
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Thanks MOZ and jdcarpe
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jdcarpe is right, but your acrylic guy did mention that he wants to know more than just inch/mm. The reason is sometimes things behave oddly in different programs. I remember mkawa sending me a drawing once of some logo, it was made in Adobe Illustrator, when I opened it up in Corel, it was all over the place, this happens due to different import/export rules.
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I drove out to the machine shop, but the project manager was out sick. The two people I spoke to (something akin to the secretary and assistant manager I think) said it sounded familiar but there was nothing in the computer in the places they knew to look for, so they were unable to give me confirmation that the order was underway.
However, for private-party cash sales, I think I overheard that the way the manager handles it, they fall through the paperwork crack because of how he enters / tracks them. A note has been left by the other manager, on this manager's desk, to call me with an update Monday (when I was expecting to hear anyway, that they'd be ready to pick up).
So, net result: I think things are moving along as planned.
EDIT: no, they're not cut. Monday is here, and "they're being programmed" ... current ETA is Thursday.
I'm going to go back and edit the latest-news 2nd post.
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Well, I've received word from the company's project manager.
Their laser is broken.
His current estimate is Tuesday, April 1st.
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awesome pictures
thanks for sharing!
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Thanks for the frequent updates, makes the wait easier:)
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I'm assuming it's too late to join? If so please tell me round 2 of this will happen.....
Just finished building my first ergodox and i'm not digging the clear acrylic at all.
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I'm assuming it's too late to join? If so please tell me round 2 of this will happen.....
Just finished building my first ergodox and i'm not digging the clear acrylic at all.
I fully intend to make round 2 happen. Current estimate to get round one into my hands is Tuesday, after the shop fixes their laser some time Monday.
Despite that being 4/1 ... no, I'm not kidding. I expect to have aluminum and stainless in my hands. Will post pictures before shipping, too.
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I'm assuming it's too late to join? If so please tell me round 2 of this will happen.....
Just finished building my first ergodox and i'm not digging the clear acrylic at all.
I fully intend to make round 2 happen. Current estimate to get round one into my hands is Tuesday, after the shop fixes their laser some time Monday.
Despite that being 4/1 ... no, I'm not kidding. I expect to have aluminum and stainless in my hands. Will post pictures before shipping, too.
Thanks. Will definitely be in round 2 :D
Can't wait to see the pics.
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I HAVE SEEN THEM WITH MY EYES, AND TOUCHED THEM WITH MY FINGERS
Unfortunately, I didn't take any photos.
So, what's left is they want to "hit it with some scotchbrite, and the DA" (says the gal working the tools) and it will be done soon. "So; how aboutcha come back, bout te nthe mornin'?" Ah, yes, the blue-collar accent. Us computer types don't hear it all that often.
ANYWAY, you can fully expect pictures, and shipping info, by the weekend.
I'm super excited for us all.
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Shoot... I just found this. I'll try to keep an eye open for round 2!
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Shoot... I just found this. I'll try to keep an eye open for round 2!
Hey now I pm'd you about this almost a month ago :P
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On the bright side, folks, the parts are in my car.
I'm at work so it'll be a few hours yet, maybe ten, before I can introduce parts to mister camera, upload everything to Imgur, make an album, and show you guys the link.
But I really expect I'll have this shipped out before my weekend is over, and then I'll open it up to round two once I know how to handle international shipping -- for which impetus, I guess we all get to thank oystein.krog all the way out in Norway.
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http://imgur.com/a/ZiMPE
So, taking pictures isn't something I'm great at.
They're collated. Not surprisingly, my SS kit weighs about 3 lbs. Osten.Krog's whole package weighs less than two.
There's two small problems. First, is the second RH isn't here -- so the SS-minimalist is lonesome. The other is, despite asking for JD's spacer, it isn't here AND isn't listed on the box.
So -- I'm hoping there's a second box, or something. Hopefully it won't take much to sort this out.
Also, and this is quite a bit more true if the spacer pieces aren't somewhere waiting for me -- this was more expensive than quoted.
I think what's going on, is the quote for whole-kits, all 10 layers, was right, but the rest wasn't really by sheer surface area, because the laser time on the switchplate (the most critical piece) probably equals the laser usage for all other eight layers combined -- so minimalist cases are more.
Can't tell for sure, and as you've heard by now, communication isn't the project manager's strong suit. He wasn't there today it was the secretary and the floor worker who found the box. I don't remember seeing a second box by it, but that might not mean as much.
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Looks great! Thanks all of your hard work in getting these produced.
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There's two small problems. First, is the second RH isn't here -- so the SS-minimalist is lonesome.
It's cool. I wasnt planning to install it until later anyway.
On an awesome note: this picture is SIIIICK!
(http://i.imgur.com/alzydVr.jpg)
Gonna be legit.
Edit: I probably should order bolts. Holes are 3mm (M3) diameter, right? Gonna get some pan head machine screws and a bagfulla nuts
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I think I might be in for round 2 based on these picks. Get it powder coated local and maybe be done with keyboards until the novatouch.
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will stainless steel for r2 be more polished? or does that not happen really?
the way i'm reading it:
cost of 10 layers: material cost for 10 layer + cutting time cost for 10 layers
cost of 4 layers: material cost for 4 layers + cutting time for 10 layers
where cutting time is the much larger cost.
the only benefit for getting 4 layers is: save 6 layers of cost + cheaper shipping + not having to find room for 6 layers at the buyers home.
can we get a quote for shipping to Canada please?
also, what is going on for fullhand cases?
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will stainless steel for r2 be more polished? or does that not happen really?
the way i'm reading it:
cost of 10 layers: material cost for 10 layer + cutting time cost for 10 layers
cost of 4 layers: material cost for 4 layers + cutting time for 10 layers
[...]
can we get a quote for shipping to Canada please?
also, what is going on for fullhand cases?
I'll tell you, I honestly could not tell the SS from the aluminum for the first ten minutes I was sorting parts. I thought it odd, but my rare earth magnet didn't stick to anything so, well. But then I realized first with the base plate, that some were REALLY HEAVY and many were not.
If you hold the edges to the light, the stainless steel is a little darker. But polish / shine is roughly the same for both metals, yes.
I never received any quotes that were specifically for the minimalist cases, and getting quotes for the complete cases took months of haranguing so I took him at his word that it would be strictly by surface area. Now, looking at the receipt (which doesn't break anything down so I have to talk to him anyway) I think that's not true -- the laser time is a contributor, and it's more complex / time consuming on the switchplate layer.
It should still, after adjustment, be quite noticeably cheaper to choose the minimalist case -- but I suggested it for alternate reasons, namely it seemed appropriate to match "thin" metal with "thin" cases.
I have not gotten quotes for the full-hand. I will, again, ask for that information when I speak to the manager on Monday.
Shipping: Canada. Got it. Don't know, but I'll find out for you. Which end of Canada are you in, if that ends up making a difference?
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west coast canada :). specifically, vancouver, bc
thanks for the answers!
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This looks awesome, can't wait:P
I can only speak for myself but for this kind of GB/first round I don't have a big problem with changes in price, the risk is something I accept.
If your expenses are higher than expected just let me/us know so we can work things out.
Thanks for your work and persistence with the shop;P
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From my experience on acrylic, both material and laser time count, plate layers are generally 2-3x the price of other layers. Even the base layer is slightly more, sicne there is no wastage that the shop can later sell off.
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I recently found that shipping to Canada is a little cheaper using UPS. You may be able to ship a set of these to Canada for around $20 or so.
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This looks awesome, can't wait:P
I can only speak for myself but for this kind of GB/first round I don't have a big problem with changes in price, the risk is something I accept.
If your expenses are higher than expected just let me/us know so we can work things out.
Thanks for your work and persistence with the shop;P
okay, thanks.
So, guys: if it turns out that JD's spacer's really weren't a part of this order, then collecting about eleven dollars per minimalist kit, would bring me back to parity -- minus shipping costs that aren't going to Norway. If I can get oystein.krog's order into an envelope and feel good about it, that actually would save most of the lost shipping costs, too.
So I'm going to hold off asking for anything until I get both to the shop, and the post office tomorrow. Right now I've got everyone's orders in a stack and secured via twist ties or aluminum fence wire when I couldn't find twist ties. I'll repackage that if envelopes (cheaper) look suitable but otherwise will need boxes and whatnot.
Could we tentatively plan on splitting the difference, and everyone who's on post 3 as getting a minimalst, or extended minimalist, send $6 per kit? Full kits are, I'm pretty sure, the cost I was quoted it's just, as MOZ pointed out, the minimalst is made of the most expensive part.
I'll be back in a day with news, and Lord-willin' and the creek don't rise, have tracking numbers for the five orders by tomorrow night.
I'm still excited, btw. They look super cool, and weigh a ton (compared to acrylic). Steel the moreso, which is why I got that for myself.
...now I just need some switches...
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This looks awesome, can't wait:P
I can only speak for myself but for this kind of GB/first round I don't have a big problem with changes in price, the risk is something I accept.
If your expenses are higher than expected just let me/us know so we can work things out.
Thanks for your work and persistence with the shop;P
okay, thanks.
So, guys: if it turns out that JD's spacer's really weren't a part of this order, then collecting about eleven dollars per minimalist kit, would bring me back to parity -- minus shipping costs that aren't going to Norway. If I can get oystein.krog's order into an envelope and feel good about it, that actually would save most of the lost shipping costs, too.
So I'm going to hold off asking for anything until I get both to the shop, and the post office tomorrow. Right now I've got everyone's orders in a stack and secured via twist ties or aluminum fence wire when I couldn't find twist ties. I'll repackage that if envelopes (cheaper) look suitable but otherwise will need boxes and whatnot.
Could we tentatively plan on splitting the difference, and everyone who's on post 3 as getting a minimalst, or extended minimalist, send $6 per kit? Full kits are, I'm pretty sure, the cost I was quoted it's just, as MOZ pointed out, the minimalst is made of the most expensive part.
I'll be back in a day with news, and Lord-willin' and the creek don't rise, have tracking numbers for the five orders by tomorrow night.
I'm still excited, btw. They look super cool, and weigh a ton (compared to acrylic). Steel the moreso, which is why I got that for myself.
...now I just need some switches...
UPS shipping to from the US to Canada is something I think most canadians avoid at all costs. UPS brokerage fees are incredibly ridiculous.
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This looks awesome, can't wait:P
I can only speak for myself but for this kind of GB/first round I don't have a big problem with changes in price, the risk is something I accept.
If your expenses are higher than expected just let me/us know so we can work things out.
Thanks for your work and persistence with the shop;P
okay, thanks.
So, guys: if it turns out that JD's spacer's really weren't a part of this order, then collecting about eleven dollars per minimalist kit, would bring me back to parity -- minus shipping costs that aren't going to Norway. If I can get oystein.krog's order into an envelope and feel good about it, that actually would save most of the lost shipping costs, too.
So I'm going to hold off asking for anything until I get both to the shop, and the post office tomorrow. Right now I've got everyone's orders in a stack and secured via twist ties or aluminum fence wire when I couldn't find twist ties. I'll repackage that if envelopes (cheaper) look suitable but otherwise will need boxes and whatnot.
Could we tentatively plan on splitting the difference, and everyone who's on post 3 as getting a minimalst, or extended minimalist, send $6 per kit? Full kits are, I'm pretty sure, the cost I was quoted it's just, as MOZ pointed out, the minimalst is made of the most expensive part.
I'll be back in a day with news, and Lord-willin' and the creek don't rise, have tracking numbers for the five orders by tomorrow night.
I'm still excited, btw. They look super cool, and weigh a ton (compared to acrylic). Steel the moreso, which is why I got that for myself.
...now I just need some switches...
Wait.
They charged your eleven dollars per kit more than they quoted you? You should go back there (or call) and talk to a manager about this. The definition of a "quote" is that you can quote them on it, not that it's an estimate or whatever.
Secondly, By "envelope" do you mean bubble mailer? I think that would be acceptable for most domestic orders, but shipping these completely unprotected will lead to some damage. I will pay more for a box or proper packaging if need be.
Thirdly, It's very generous of you to split the difference.
Finally: Thanks for the really quick packing! This GB has gone by so fast, and it's really commendable your dedication. I eagerly await receiving stuff and resoldering. It's gonna be sweet.
...now I just need some switches...
I can pay in switches if you like. :p
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Please don't take too much risk with the packaging, I'd rather pay extra too. Having it arrive damaged would really suck:P
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Please don't take too much risk with the packaging, I'd rather pay extra too. Having it arrive damaged would really suck:P
Having received a keyboard that traveled from India, I certainly understand your concern.
EDIT: yeah ... looked at the mailing bubble envelopes. Not gonna cut it internationally, and I'm not real sure I could get it in, even.
[...]
Wait.
They charged you eleven dollars per kit more than they quoted you? You should go back there (or call) and talk to a manager about this. The definition of a "quote" is that you can quote them on it, not that it's an estimate or whatever.
I never received a quote for the minimalist cases. I tried quite a few times and never received a number. But I when I got the quote for the whole kits, I asked for a quote for the minimalist cases and was told it would probably be close enough to guess by surface area. So, just a rule of thumb, and it didn't occur to me that the lasering time would be disproportionate until I was billing folks.
Also I think it's more than eleven because at eleven for each mini-case, that brings be down to where I'd expect to be after mailing domestic orders.
[...] I can pay in switches if you like. :p [...]
Hmm ... Clears? That'd be ... about enough for a thumb cluster ;)
EDIT: I went out, but the manager was out. No one to talk to who knew anything. I'll go back out this afternoon. Kinda have to because ostein.krog 's order was in a suitable box but I forgot the tape -- and the customs form -- and his address.
So, here's where I see that we are: I'm out something, and I'd like some help with that but I don't mind splitting the loss because this first round was intended as a learning experience for me.
JD's order is complete as paid, but there's a fair chance (I HOPE) that his spacer is in, in which case I'll give him the option to add that to his order -- if it's not in I suppose I'll ship what I have.
Dorkvader's order is 2/3rds here ... and once the shop guys find the two missing pieces or recut them so they dont get lost this time, or whatever, then I can ship his.
TheChemist: yes I'd like something from you because yours was just a minimalst order but I'm not worried enough about it to hold your order ransom. Shipped.
Effinish: pretty sure the whole cases cost me what I was told they cost me, and that's all you ordered. Shipped.
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I sent you a little extra, I guess you don't know yet what shipping for my package will be so I hope it covers the extra expenses you've had on my order.
I think I speak for all non-conus members here on the boards; we appreciate GB's who are willing to handle the extra hassle of international shipping:)
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Wow! Ok. You converted me.
How do I get into round two??
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I think I speak for all non-conus members here on the boards; we appreciate GB's who are willing to handle the extra hassle of international shipping:)
Thank you. And yes, I guess I'm getting that. It surprises me overall because the US has the profile of a 3rd world country: most of what we export is raw grains, and most of what we import is finished goods. ::shrug::
Wow! Ok. You converted me.
How do I get into round two??
Now that I have real-world experience in this type'o'stuff, I'm going to rework my price sheet on page one and sometime soon will open the door to new orders.
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Let me know how much I owe you.
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Further good news, folks -- I've spoken with the project manager, who is going to work up proper quotes for all the kits we requested.
The spacer that JD drew up, is going to be about $20 to me, in aluminum and $42 in stainless -- So, tax / PP / shipping on top of that.
JD I've PM'd you for some clarification; TheChemist I've replied to PM.
Dorkvader the rework order has been placed -- so, by next weekend yours should be en route.
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Paid for the difference; now waiting for the spacers. ;)
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Further good news, folks -- I've spoken with the project manager, who is going to work up proper quotes for all the kits we requested.
The spacer that JD drew up, is going to be about $20 to me, in aluminum and $42 in stainless -- So, tax / PP / shipping on top of that.
JD I've PM'd you for some clarification; TheChemist I've replied to PM.
Dorkvader the rework order has been placed -- so, by next weekend yours should be en route.
Excellent! Thanks so much for this. You are all kinds of awesome.
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Excellent! Thanks so much for this. You are all kinds of awesome.
Thank you, and you're welcome.
Obviously the spacer is going to be popular, so I've ordered three sets in aluminum, and one in stainless steel. In addition to filling out everyone's orders to date, it will give me a chance to find out what the real-world to-me price is. So I'm not going to invoice anybody until I know what the "correct" number is.
Meanwhile I'll try to find time to research shipping logistics, and probably next weekend start collecting orders for round two. Folks that submitted an order, I already have pertinent information but as you can see, the price will go up a bit, the moreso if you want the spacers for a "solid block of metal" look -- which I have to admit, sounds sexy.
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What sort of thickness/plate options could be available for round 2? Things like the full 21mm case thickness or the universal design (with the full hand adapter) would be quite nice.
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My body is ready for round two.
Can holes at the bottom of these cases be counter sunk so the screw doesn't hang out as far?
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My body is ready for round two.
Can holes at the bottom of these cases be counter sunk so the screw doesn't hang out as far?
You can quite probably countersink the holes by hand with a drill.
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My body is ready for round two.
Can holes at the bottom of these cases be counter sunk so the screw doesn't hang out as far?
You can quite probably countersink the holes by hand with a drill.
also can try this as long as there are 3mm holes
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=42772.msg1249174#msg1249174
hint: look halfway down my topic
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My body is ready for round two.
Can holes at the bottom of these cases be counter sunk so the screw doesn't hang out as far?
You can quite probably countersink the holes by hand with a drill.
also can try this as long as there are 3mm holes
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=42772.msg1249174#msg1249174
hint: look halfway down my topic
I may very well seriously consider doing one of these.
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When the pricing settles out let me know what I owe you. There's no need for you to cover any additional costs on my order. I expected a few surprises with this being a first round group-buy and I'm just happy to have a case for my 'Dox.
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Thanks effinish; currently I'm assuming / hoping the problem is primarily with the minimalist cases, and yours were full cases (for which I got a quote)
So ... Dorkvader your rework is done, will try to get that out tomorrow, but otherwise Monday it is. Also, miscommunication is the order of the day. When I emailed the request for JD's spacer to be produced, I couched it in wording to the effect of "can you double check the price is really close to what you said it was? Because I want 21 of these and 7 of those"
And he understood it to be primarily just a price-check email, so nothing's been sent anywhere.
As it's Friday afternoon I said to go ahead and put the order off -- the full spreadsheet of prices will (/should) come to me Monday and I can update my OP then, and order the spacers, etc.
"Over time, and over budget"
in the 'everything, everywhere' category ...
How about 'what is a geek hack group buy', Alex?
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Everything came in undamaged, thanks. Now I just need the spacers.
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Meanwhile, I've heard nothing from the manager. I even texted him. I'll drive out there tomorrow at lunch break, see what I can find out.
Two delivered, I believe? Dorkvader's is en route -- maybe somebody with a nonbroken camera can provide some better pictures.
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I will post some pics in the morning if it doesn't rain.
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Mine came in undamaged as well. I spent quite a bit of time playing with different configurations and I think I like the minimalist case the best. The other option I like is discarding the top layer for a 8-layer (4/side) case. That layout provides nice symmetry and I like having the port expander and teensy exposed as well as the sides of the PCB.
I probably won't have time to post any pictures until this weekend but I'll try and get some up of different configurations of the 10 plates. If anyone's interested, I could probably mock up a fully-enclosed case.
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Got my package today, superb packaging!
Here are some quick phone snaps of the unpacking:
https://plus.google.com/photos/113252364984901542714/albums/6002590458757933985
Sorry for the bad quality.
Minimalist:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-qVUBjjqnPgA/U02pOZApWtI/AAAAAAAALmI/1jDcDgMvzkE/w1539-h1155-no/IMG_20140415_234802.jpg)
Classic:
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/BpPvE-TgebNcdWepBvezLv1kKvhaMKS8tRSziBL6eJE=w1665-h1046-no)
IMO it looks really good :)
I would love to see more pictures, especially fully mounted!
Edit: fixed pictures to prevent confusion, I got the spacer mixed up, the classic is ofcourse 5 layers, not 4 :P
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So, I have spoken with the manager, and he _did_ get my text message but was out sick yesterday, thus no quotes.
I've gone ahead and ordered the spacers, but as before haven't heard any confirmation. Nevertheless I've submitted an order, and hope they'll be in maybe friday but more likely Monday. Also I asked for a full workup quote wise so I'll know what to expect and can, I hope next week, update the OP and throw open the flood gates for round two.
Thanks for the photos oystein.krog its a lot better than my camera could have done. FWIW the shop manager asked for photos too, of what it looks like fully assembled, so we've piqued his interest.
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I'd hate to be more difficult, but how customizable will R2 be?
my planned purchase as of now:
2x plate
2x spacers
10x bottom plates
all SS
why?
I want to keep the stock acrylic plate from my MD ergodox, put a spacer under it, and then stack 3-5 plates with no cutouts (maximum density). I would have to find my own bolt/screws of course. the pates would be just in case. I am really confused about pricing, so that will obviously affect what I want.
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I'd hate to be more difficult, but how customizable will R2 be?
[...]
I mentioned that something like this might be brought up, and the project manager chuckled and suggested I let you buy, in this case, five full-kits "And if they don't want the extra pieces, they don't have to use them"
Which of course would, in stainless steel, be upwards of $325 or more.
But I did mention that there would be requests like this, so my next step is to wait for the quote sheet to come in and try to make sense of where your requests and their prices can meet each other.
On the plus side, five SS kits would well exceed MOQ for the shop so I could make a special run for you ;)
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case looks awesome from pics. Can't wait for Round 2 :D
How many layers of spacers do we need to complete a 5 layer case? Are the spacers the same thickness as the main layers, 1.5mm?
iirc typical acrylic ergodox case consists of 3-5-5-5-3 layers = 21mm total.
I'm just trying to wrap my head around how this would look with spacers....
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case looks awesome from pics. Can't wait for Round 2 :D
How many layers of spacers do we need to complete a 5 layer case? Are the spacers the same thickness as the main layers, 1.5mm?
iirc typical acrylic ergodox case consists of 3-5-5-5-3 layers = 21mm total.
I'm just trying to wrap my head around how this would look with spacers....
It would have 7 spacer layers and 3 layers from the original, all in 1.5mm SS. So 15mm total.
P.S. I love your GotP avatar!
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Mine came in undamaged as well. I spent quite a bit of time playing with different configurations and I think I like the minimalist case the best. The other option I like is discarding the top layer for a 8-layer (4/side) case. That layout provides nice symmetry and I like having the port expander and teensy exposed as well as the sides of the PCB.
I probably won't have time to post any pictures until this weekend but I'll try and get some up of different configurations of the 10 plates. If anyone's interested, I could probably mock up a fully-enclosed case.
I'd like to see pics of how well it can be put together.
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case looks awesome from pics. Can't wait for Round 2 :D
How many layers of spacers do we need to complete a 5 layer case? Are the spacers the same thickness as the main layers, 1.5mm?
iirc typical acrylic ergodox case consists of 3-5-5-5-3 layers = 21mm total.
I'm just trying to wrap my head around how this would look with spacers....
It would have 7 spacer layers and 3 layers from the original, all in 1.5mm SS. So 15mm total.
P.S. I love your GotP avatar!
Thanks! I've had this avatar forever I just need to post more often lol.
I think I get it now. I might use the top and bottom layers from my acrylic case to add more thickness.
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Thanks for running this AKmalamute even though I missed it! :)
If there are any dropouts I'd be happy to jump in!
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Thanks for running this AKmalamute even though I missed it! :)
If there are any dropouts I'd be happy to jump in!
No dropouts -- in fact, there's only one left to ship.
So, here's today's update: the project manager says he's about half finished with the quote writeup. And the spacer parts should be in Tuesday ... or maybe Wednesday.
So, I expect to have updated the OP with "correct" prices by next weekend, and will be able to accept R2 orders before May is here.
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Thanks for running this AKmalamute even though I missed it! :)
If there are any dropouts I'd be happy to jump in!
No dropouts -- in fact, there's only one left to ship.
So, here's today's update: the project manager says he's about half finished with the quote writeup. And the spacer parts should be in Tuesday ... or maybe Wednesday.
So, I expect to have updated the OP with "correct" prices by next weekend, and will be able to accept R2 orders before May is here.
How can I get on R2?
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How can I get on R2?
Once I can comfortably update the pricelist in the OP I'll officially accept orders, and will probably cut that off with no more than a week of ordering. Although if I have to jump through hoops to up my Paypal xfer limit I may leave it open a bit longer. Can anybody speak to that? Like, how evil PP is? I'll look into it over the weekend.
Also the link in OP is still "live" and those folks already entered will get 1st dibs. Just watch this thread and you'll get warning enough as I can provide it.
if you guys entered your name/etc already, I still have that, and will create an invoice when I know the correct $$ amount so don't worry about falling off the map; I want to respond to everyone's enthusiasm by getting metal into the mail.
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How can I get on R2?
Once I can comfortably update the pricelist in the OP I'll officially accept orders, and will probably cut that off with no more than a week of ordering. Although if I have to jump through hoops to up my Paypal xfer limit I may leave it open a bit longer. Can anybody speak to that? Like, how evil PP is? I'll look into it over the weekend.
Also the link in OP is still "live" and those folks already entered will get 1st dibs. Just watch this thread and you'll get warning enough as I can provide it.
if you guys entered your name/etc already, I still have that, and will create an invoice when I know the correct $$ amount so don't worry about falling off the map; I want to respond to everyone's enthusiasm by getting metal into the mail.
Shoot!
I didn't know I can put my order in now.
I just did.
Thanks.
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Don't stress until you get about 20k in.
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Just wanted to say - Thanks AKmalamute for having Round 2 and giving us non-us a chance to own this :)
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received mine yesterday! The "one off" 0.5 case was a little lower in quality, but looked fine after I filed / sanded the offending areas. I then sanded the top with some spare 100 grit I found in a drawer for aestheetic appeal. Looks great!
I'm arranging repayment now. Thanks so much!
I'm also getting like 30 M3 nuts to finish up the case :P
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received mine yesterday! The "one off" 0.5 case was a little lower in quality, but looked fine after I filed / sanded the offending areas. I then sanded the top with some spare 100 grit I found in a drawer for aestheetic appeal. Looks great!
I'm arranging repayment now. Thanks so much!
I'm also getting like 30 M3 nuts to finish up the case :P
I hope you take some pictures of the installation process. And the final outcome.
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please, could you list all of us tha are in R2?
I did signed in the order form but I would like to be sure ...
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I've updated post #3, but still waiting since before round one: Tarzan / ShrapneL / Glod (and JD's should be shipping this week. I hope. Seriously I hope so.)
Entered also, for round two are agodinhost, latin00032 & lugoues. I'll clearly need to edit my form to give a place to enter receiving country so I know how much shipping to charge. These things don't quite neatly fit into any of our "flat rate" boxes the postal service provides and I don't mind at all hunting down boxes on my own but it means the charge is strictly by weight and distance traveled.
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...JD's should be shipping this week. I hope. Seriously I hope so.
Nice, thank you!
Maybe agodinhost would want me to proxy shipping to him with his other things I have. ;)
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Good to know. If the stainless minimal case isn't to pricy I'll probably pick up one. Kind of scary I could have all the parts to build one and come in a bit cheaper than Mass Drop and likely see it all sooner than later...lol :D
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Maybe agodinhost would want me to proxy shipping to him with his other things I have. ;)
Yes Sir!!
If you don't mind ...
:D
There is any chance to cut any filler material for the pcb bottom and the space between the plate and the pcb guys?
Anything like silicone, rubber or foam ...
The thing is that I hate this spaces - it is a black hole of dust and dirty stuff. I assembled one ergodox these last days using Moz acrylic case (8 layers, 18mm high) and it was a PITA to cut by hand some rubber sheet to fill in these gaps.
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Maybe agodinhost would want me to proxy shipping to him with his other things I have. ;)
Yes Sir!!
If you don't mind ...
:D
Duly noted. Was going to ask about that address entry before I invoiced anybody but JD has explained it. N/P and I hope it will be done and to him before May is out. But this project manager ... </rolls eyes>
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Will the prices change dramatically from what it says on the order form? I'm assuming those prices don't include spacer layers?
Also how many spacer layers do we need for a minimalist case? Thanks in advance.
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Will the prices change dramatically from what it says on the order form? I'm assuming those prices don't include spacer layers?
Also how many spacer layers do we need for a minimalist case? Thanks in advance.
Currently the order form has guesstimates that don't include ANY shipping values. I *think* the space kit (seven pieces for each hand) will run about $20 in aluminum but we'll find out hopefully tomorrow. Anyway no that's separate also.
As to how many you'll need, I think you need to visualize what you're trying to do with them. My vision for the minimalist would have used I think two, (or three?) between PCB and bottom piece. You may want another two to fit between the PCB and the switch plate for dust resistance and torsional strength.
Myself I'm still toying with the idea of buying silicone sheets and cutting it to shape with a razor, but I've also ordered the spacer kit in SS so I guess I'm going that route for now.
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My vision for the minimalist would have used I think two, (or three?) between PCB and bottom piece. You may want another two to fit between the PCB and the switch plate for dust resistance and torsional strength.
I like this idea.
+1
Myself I'm still toying with the idea of buying silicone sheets and cutting it to shape with a razor, but I've also ordered the spacer kit in SS so I guess I'm going that route for now.
hmmm, I did cuted it too but I forgot to reduce the hole sizes to squeeze the switches in. Would be better, IMHO, to use one special cut to better fit the switches taking into consideration the elasticity of the selected material (otherwise we will ending up with gaps into this sheet and the dammed dust will enter anyway).
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So, here's today's update: the quote isn't done, but he says he will have it by end-of-today, so if that happens, I can at least open R2 by the weekend. He sounded pretty sure, but he didn't blink at the next thing, either, which surprised me a little: "The already-ordered spacers?" 'They'll be in Tuesday.' So no pictures this weekend of what the completed case looks like because of delays I wasn't expecting.
Ah, well. I suppose this is why this shop is cheaper. Quality worksmanship but not so much quality in businessmanship; everything is a week late.
More when I know about it.
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Yo AK, once the final prices are in expect an order from me.
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I hope I get in round 2.
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Will there be an anodized version of the aluminum case?
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Will there be an anodized version of the aluminum case?
Not by me. I'm frustrated enough dealing with one company's supply chain.
Anodizing is, I'm told, a fairly easy process for shops that provide it -- ask around I guess, and get the aluminum to the shop of your choice when it comes in.
Edit Friday night 5/2: no update. I'm frustrated and sorry for you guys, but recall that I am dealing with this particular shop not because the prices are great ... but because they've been the most responsive metalworking shop I've talked to, and that assessment remains true I'm afraid.
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My vision for the minimalist would have used I think two, (or three?) between PCB and bottom piece. You may want another two to fit between the PCB and the switch plate for dust resistance and torsional strength.
I like this idea.
+1
+2!
Top, bottom, and some between the pcb and sheets, or see how it looks keeping the plexi there, who knows. Sounds awesome! Let me know if I need to update the order form for R2, but more than happy to buy a full set if that is what is required.
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Here is my current ergodox with this case:
https://plus.google.com/113252364984901542714/posts/ge88Ry9HH8G
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-oFgC6btyuVk/U2aJzhZtjgI/AAAAAAAALvU/ge-uyXsK_zE/w1663-h1112-no/IMG_20140504_203801.jpg)
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That looks great! Thanks for sharing the pic.
What are you using as standoffs? M3 nuts?
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When round 2 begins, is there a way to get an extra top layer for both hands?
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When round 2 begins, is there a way to get an extra top layer for both hands?
No promises, but I'll see what I can do. I can't move forward though until I get those quotes in, which should reveal something about the internal pricing structure.
Thank you, oystein.krog for the album -- I'm waiting on some switches and I still haven't connected the two halves with anything so I have no keyboard to take pictures of.
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Something I've noticed, the aluminium gets scratched very easily.
I am contemplating treating the top layer in some way... powdercoating or electrolyzing I guess?
Does anyone have experience with that? What is most durable?
Alternatively I might use an acrylic top layer, I really quite like the white color of the case from czarek that I used previously.
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Someone had pics of a skeletonized look with smoky acrylic top plates that looked stunning imho.
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Something I've noticed, the aluminium gets scratched very easily.
I am contemplating treating the top layer in some way... powdercoating or electrolyzing I guess? [...]
No experience, but I'm giving serious consideration to treating my SS case with spray-on bedliner. It would give a unique texture and I'd probably like the look. Not sold on that idea 100% so bare metal sits waiting for me to buy keyswitches.
Oh! Small update! I spoke with the manager who (again) said he'd get the quote to me by the end of the day, and he thinks that the spacers, that will complete round 1, were cut last night but-hes-not-sure-he-will-check-and-get-back-with-me.
So not really an update as I haven't seen anything but I'm getting just a little excited knowing it might be moving forward.
EDIT May 9th I've spoken to the manager. Again. Still no quote, but not only has he been sick it's been going around the office/floor so everything's behind and ... they broke the laser. Yes, again. Turns out it's a 6kW thing that uses a $5K Opal head as a concentrator, and they broke three of them last night on the job RIGHT BEFORE MINE (referring to JD's spacer to complete his and The_Chemist's order)
I've emphasized that I want the quote done for the rest of you all, and he thinks he can get the laser online tomorrow, resulting in Monday cutting and Tuesday for DA sanding, or something close to that.
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Something I just noticed; the stabilizer mount holes (for the thumb keys) on all my plates all just a little bit too small on one side.
This means that when you install the black cherry stabilizer mounts they are squeezed together too much, which in turn means that the white key inserts do not slide smoothly and the keys become completely stuck.
I'll be able to fix this easily just by removing some material, but it might be worth trying to fix for round two.
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interesting. I used cherry platemounted stabs with no issue.
Also, I figured out the perfect size standoff spacer to use.
I got a few sets of these and they're perfect. Looks like an epsilon now :p
http://www.ebay.com/itm/360878496378?
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Something I just noticed; the stabilizer mount holes (for the thumb keys) on all my plates all just a little bit too small on one side.
This means that when you install the black cherry stabilizer mounts they are squeezed together too much, which in turn means that the white key inserts do not slide smoothly and the keys become completely stuck.
I'll be able to fix this easily just by removing some material, but it might be worth trying to fix for round two.
Sounds like you are describing costar stabilizers not cherry stabs.
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Something I just noticed; the stabilizer mount holes (for the thumb keys) on all my plates all just a little bit too small on one side.
This means that when you install the black cherry stabilizer mounts they are squeezed together too much, which in turn means that the white key inserts do not slide smoothly and the keys become completely stuck.
I'll be able to fix this easily just by removing some material, but it might be worth trying to fix for round two.
Sounds like you are describing costar stabilizers not cherry stabs.
Yeah I was so confused then realized he's probably talking about costar stab.
My beast poker plate had the same issue with stabs. Neither costar or cherry pcb/plate stabs would fit. I ended up filing down the corners slightly and used cherry pcb stabs.
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interesting. I used cherry platemounted stabs with no issue.
Also, I figured out the perfect size standoff spacer to use.
I got a few sets of these and they're perfect. Looks like an epsilon now :p
http://www.ebay.com/itm/360878496378?
Thanks for the link. I might get a few sets as well.
Do you have a pic you can share by any chance? :D
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Something I just noticed; the stabilizer mount holes (for the thumb keys) on all my plates all just a little bit too small on one side.
This means that when you install the black cherry stabilizer mounts they are squeezed together too much, which in turn means that the white key inserts do not slide smoothly and the keys become completely stuck.
I'll be able to fix this easily just by removing some material, but it might be worth trying to fix for round two.
Sounds like you are describing costar stabilizers not cherry stabs.
Yeah I was so confused then realized he's probably talking about costar stab.
My beast poker plate had the same issue with stabs. Neither costar or cherry pcb/plate stabs would fit. I ended up filing down the corners slightly and used cherry pcb stabs.
Ah ok, I am indeed trying to use costar stabilizers since they were the only ones I was able to find.
I've not yet done any modifications to the plate... what would the best option for stabilizers be?
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stabs are totally unnecessary on the ergodox, just sayin....
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stabs are totally unnecessary on the ergodox, just sayin....
yup, I Never used it too.
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Something I just noticed; the stabilizer mount holes (for the thumb keys) on all my plates all just a little bit too small on one side.
This means that when you install the black cherry stabilizer mounts they are squeezed together too much, which in turn means that the white key inserts do not slide smoothly and the keys become completely stuck.
I'll be able to fix this easily just by removing some material, but it might be worth trying to fix for round two.
Sounds like you are describing costar stabilizers not cherry stabs.
Yeah I was so confused then realized he's probably talking about costar stab.
My beast poker plate had the same issue with stabs. Neither costar or cherry pcb/plate stabs would fit. I ended up filing down the corners slightly and used cherry pcb stabs.
Ah ok, I am indeed trying to use costar stabilizers since they were the only ones I was able to find.
I've not yet done any modifications to the plate... what would the best option for stabilizers be?
You might want to find out exactly what's causing the keys to get stuck. With costar stabs, it's usually because plate is too thick and the stab clips are not seated properly.
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=36907.msg898724#msg898724
If Cherry stabs (pcb or plate mounted) fit well you can use those instead of costars. I personally don't like costar stabs so I'd probably use Cherry stabs regardless.
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stabs are totally unnecessary on the ergodox, just sayin....
Totally unnecessary? I wouldn't go that far. It may work fine without stab but they're x2 keys. I'd personally use stabs as long as the plate/pcb allows them to be installed.
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stabs are totally unnecessary on the ergodox, just sayin....
yup, I Never used it too.
I didn't need when typing, but I find it much easier to game with stabilizers.
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I will take some pictures of mine. I really like the look.
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Do you have any news AKmalamute?
I'm kinda eager to see it happening ...
and thank you for your patience and time my friend!
:D
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Unfortunately I have no news. I've called / emailed about three times since I updated my last post last week, and have heard exactly nothing. This is not unusual, but I'm going to start the process of shopping around, seeing if there's another shop that answers emails and has a laser.
I'm sorry guys. Making a full, correct, and useful quote sheet should be the project manager's job. I don't know why its taking this long.
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Take a look into this link here (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=57691.msg1330009#msg1330009).
I think it can be one alternative, just in case if your vendor burst our bubble.
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got the pictures up. I recommend sanding the plates a little with rough sandpaper before installation.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/dork_vader/sets/72157644268864709/
(http://640*480]https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7355/14183111051_79ca1f46ea_o.jpg)
(http://640*480]https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2920/14186412325_3d1a8d7bd2_o.jpg)
(http://640*480]https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2921/13999792667_ff1a7dfb00_o.jpg)
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got the pictures up. I recommend sanding the plates a little with rough sandpaper before installation.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/dork_vader/sets/72157644268864709/
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7355/14183111051_79ca1f46ea_o.jpg)
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2920/14186412325_3d1a8d7bd2_o.jpg)
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2921/13999792667_ff1a7dfb00_o.jpg)
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I'm planning to paint mine with black epoxy spray ...
aweesome!
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got the pictures up. I recommend sanding the plates a little with rough sandpaper before installation.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/dork_vader/sets/72157644268864709/
Thanks for the pics. Looks great!
I personally don't like the internal components exposed so I'm thinking of doing something like
top layer - m3 nut - plate - pcb - 8mm spacer - bottom layer
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I personally don't like the internal components exposed so I'm thinking of doing something like
top layer - m3 nut - plate - pcb - 8mm spacer - bottom layer
Same here. I'm planning to buy one cork rubber sheet (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Victor-Reinz-Gasket-Material-12-x-24-x-1-8-Cork-Rubber-Sheet-JV123-/121333914065?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c401099d1&vxp=mtr)and cut to use it as spacer.
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Still no quote, and I've sent emails to about three other local shops.
But, I did speak to a reasonable-sounding guy who said he could get a pretty full set of quotes by the end of today (that is, both full hand, and classic, both full kits, but in both metals) -- only problem is that shop doesn't have a laser anymore.
How do you guys feel about waterjet?
I suppose the costs could be offset by using a thicker metal, but that would defeat my goal of a keyswitch layer exactly as thick as Cherry called for. Of course, I've got my own case so this is for you guys.
For those put off by the costs of waterjet cutting I really am trying to make lasercutting happen, I'm just getting impatient and calling the competition -- only to be ignored by them so maybe that's the deal with this industry.
Dorkvader: thanks for the pictures! and yes, it looks good.
Edit: Well! Just got an email from a 'nearby' shop that they will respond to my inquiry
Okay, short story: I looked in the yellow pages for local shops, found one with an actual web page that says they focus on smaller, more personal machining -- call them up, he says no laser but if he were to have something cut, he'd cross the state line and go to this other shop. Call them up (hours ago) and say hey I've submitted to your web page can you acknowledge you've received it?
...that's the shop that just wrote to say they'd help me out. Way cool, as it almost comes with a recommendation.
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Waterjet is okay - but I think it would be really expensive.
3 or 4 months ago I did a local search for local stores to cut this very same ergodox case and most of my emails were not answered. I think I sent more than 30 emails and only 3 answered back, two with disgusting prices and one complaining about the file format. It seems that they don't like small runs at all ...
I'm trying to get a quote from QWERTim but he didn't answered with values yet.
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Yes, metal shops don't like small jobs, especially one-offs. Most won't even bother to call or write you back, and the ones that do will quote you a ridiculous price.
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...
I suppose the costs could be offset by using a thicker metal, but that would defeat my goal of a keyswitch layer exactly as thick as Cherry called for. Of course, I've got my own case so this is for you guys.
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dunno about everyone else, but getting a decent plate cut would be the thing that would most likely get me to join in a second round buy. i do have some intentions for a custom wooden case (which will come after i've worked out how to hook a shift register in to the LED pins and drive an LCD display from it, so i have some work to do first) but a decent plate would be nicely re-usable when the time comes, so i'd not feel that getting one of these cases as a temporary measure was a waste.
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Well, that didn't turn out quite like I expected.
I got the quote in from the Portland shop that has a laser and promised to get back to me Friday -- They have, and it's three times the cost of the local shop I dealt with for round 1.
But, if you're in a hurry, I have a contact that can get you a classic case in aluminum for $102 shipped ... Or the full-hand for $107 (stainless costs $107 / $120)
I'll update this when / if I get the quote from the waterjet place. In the meantime, I guess I should go back to pestering the shop manager of the local shop I've dealt with before.
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Well, that didn't turn out quite like I expected.
I got the quote in from the Portland shop that has a laser and promised to get back to me Friday -- They have, and it's three times the cost of the local shop I dealt with for round 1.
But, if you're in a hurry, I have a contact that can get you a classic case in aluminum for $102 shipped ... Or the full-hand for $107 (stainless costs $107 / $120)
I'll update this when / if I get the quote from the waterjet place. In the meantime, I guess I should go back to pestering the shop manager of the local shop I've dealt with before.
Are those prices for the full stack or the skeletal design?
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Are those prices for the full stack or the skeletal design?
Full stack, 10 layers.
I didn't ask about the minimalist or extended minimalist cases but the savings probably wouldn't be all that substantial, as discovered before.
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Are those prices for the full stack or the skeletal design?
Full stack, 10 layers.
I didn't ask about the minimalist or extended minimalist cases but the savings probably wouldn't be all that substantial, as discovered before.
$110 bucks seems to be the normal average price, any MOQ?
The plates and the tops would be enough for me. I'm planning to use 3mm rubber sheet into the bottom and spacers layers.
AKmalamute, any chance to get a quote for each layer? I think that the plate, top and bottom (your minimalist idea) are the essentials layers.
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Any update on custom orders? I would like 2 of each plate (third layer) instead of the second layer(From the bottom) so that I can put the teensy on the left side
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Any update on custom orders? I would like 2 of each plate (third layer) instead of the second layer(From the bottom) so that I can put the teensy on the left side
The super-expensive piece? If you're going to have the Teensy on the bottom and the switches on the top, you'd be better off with the left lower-spacer being replaced by an extra right upper-spacer ... still ten layers and probably / almost the same cost. (or, could you just swap them since there's no teensy to avoid ...?)
@everyone else:
I spent a couple hours 'hanging out' with the project manager, and briefly spoke to a couple employees. The laser really is a one point two million USD paperweight right now, because the nitrogen line blew open and they're waiting to fix that before proceeding. The spacer layer is still at the top of the list for when the laser is working.
I've gone over again with him, what we need quotes on. I think part of his problem on this front is he's not understanding that I can't just guess -- it's not my money I'm playing with and I have to know how much to bill other folks so that their money will be in my hand when the order is done.
Also they're having personnel problems so he gets getting distracted a lot which doesn't help. Anyway since this shop is much cheaper than the only other shop to respond, I'm going to give him another couple days before giving up on him.
@Agodinhost: the bigger shop didn't mention any MOQ, and I asked specifically about that. If you want, I can get a quote for the extended-minimalst case. What metal? I'll write to them in a few minutes and edit this when I hear back.
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Any update on custom orders? I would like 2 of each plate (third layer) instead of the second layer(From the bottom) so that I can put the teensy on the left side
The super-expensive piece? If you're going to have the Teensy on the bottom and the switches on the top, you'd be better off with the left lower-spacer being replaced by an extra right upper-spacer ... still ten layers and probably / almost the same cost. (or, could you just swap them since there's no teensy to avoid ...?)
Haha, that would make more sense. I wasn't sure how the usb and 3.5mms would fit since I don't have a dox, so I went with the safe route. I may just try to the the barebone bottom+plate to avoid it all together.(+ maybe a top case)
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@Agodinhost: the bigger shop didn't mention any MOQ, and I asked specifically about that. If you want, I can get a quote for the extended-minimalst case. What metal? I'll write to them in a few minutes and edit this when I hear back.
I would love to get 5 or 6 using 1.5mm stainless steel, however I'm not sure that I'll have enough money for so many cases. I would prefer one cheaper vendor, It's up to you my friend - IF you do find some spare time, please, go on - otherwise it's okay, never mind. Anyone else is interested in?
:)
I'm still trying to see what QWERTim can do for us ...
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got the pictures up. I recommend sanding the plates a little with rough sandpaper before installation.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/dork_vader/sets/72157644268864709/
Thanks for the pics. Looks great!
I personally don't like the internal components exposed so I'm thinking of doing something like
top layer - m3 nut - plate - pcb - 8mm spacer - bottom layer
I'm confused. Isn't that exactly what I have? The first few pictures are from months ago, before the plates were made (to show the difference)
I received a bag of 100 nylon 8mm spacers if you want any.
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So, I've received some replies.
The bigger, responsive shop in the big city can do the "extended minimalist" in aluminum for $60/ea to me (so, roughly $80 shipped CONUS) for one ... or sixty three and a quarter (USD 63.25) shipped, if twenty are ordered ($900+ to the shop). SS a proportionate amount more.
Waterjet? As said before (I think) they can't offer the tolerances -- They officially guarantee 0.015" precision but tell me that "most of the time" they can get "pretty close" to half that; seven or eight thousandths of an inch. I have prices from them.
Full kit, ten layers: $32/ea alum, $45/ea stainless -- ASSUMING ten copies ordered. I'm unclear at this moment if a general $350-MOQ amongst the various variations desired is close enough, or if the overhead is specific to each 'kit' -- I'll get clarification. But that would mean, assuming we met that expectation -- $50+shipping for the full-hand stainless steel, 1.5mm slices. Remember these are heavy, so it could conceivably exceed the 4lbs limit imposed on cheap international shipping. Probably $15 CONUS because my own boxes end up being much cheaper than the "any weight flat rate" boxes.
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$50+shipping for the full-hand stainless steel, 1.5mm slices. Remember these are heavy, so it could conceivably exceed the 4lbs limit imposed on cheap international shipping. Probably $15 CONUS because my own boxes end up being much cheaper than the "any weight flat rate" boxes.
That's fantastic! On the waterjet, if the tolerances aren't good enough, we may consider just a "normal" plate instead of the switch top removal.
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got the pictures up. I recommend sanding the plates a little with rough sandpaper before installation.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/dork_vader/sets/72157644268864709/
Thanks for the pics. Looks great!
I personally don't like the internal components exposed so I'm thinking of doing something like
top layer - m3 nut - plate - pcb - 8mm spacer - bottom layer
I'm confused. Isn't that exactly what I have? The first few pictures are from months ago, before the plates were made (to show the difference)
I received a bag of 100 nylon 8mm spacers if you want any.
You have the bottom layer and the plate separated by 8mm spacers. I'm going to add another layer on top to cover up the internals. My teensy is soldered directly on to the PCB so I don't think I'll have a clearance issue.
I ordered some alu spacers from ebay but haven't received it yet. I might be interested in nylon ones :) I'll let you know later. thanks!
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So, I've received some replies.
The bigger, responsive shop in the big city can do the "extended minimalist" in aluminum for $60/ea to me (so, roughly $80 shipped CONUS) for one ... or sixty three and a quarter (USD 63.25) shipped, if twenty are ordered ($900+ to the shop). SS a proportionate amount more.
Waterjet? As said before (I think) they can't offer the tolerances -- They officially guarantee 0.015" precision but tell me that "most of the time" they can get "pretty close" to half that; seven or eight thousandths of an inch. I have prices from them.
Full kit, ten layers: $32/ea alum, $45/ea stainless -- ASSUMING ten copies ordered. I'm unclear at this moment if a general $350-MOQ amongst the various variations desired is close enough, or if the overhead is specific to each 'kit' -- I'll get clarification. But that would mean, assuming we met that expectation -- $50+shipping for the full-hand stainless steel, 1.5mm slices. Remember these are heavy, so it could conceivably exceed the 4lbs limit imposed on cheap international shipping. Probably $15 CONUS because my own boxes end up being much cheaper than the "any weight flat rate" boxes.
I like those waterjet prices! but I'm kinda worried about tolerances. Have there been any custom plate done by waterjet before?
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I like those waterjet prices! but I'm kinda worried about tolerances. Have there been any custom plate done by waterjet before?
Probably but I can't find an example in GIS right now. The main thing is that the switchtop removal cutouts won't be there. If I emphasize the bolt holes need to line up precisely (and I did, and it didn't draw any attention from the guy looking at the drawings and seeing how big they're not) than everything else should be copacetic.
So, we could proceed right now, full hand same cost as classic, with no switchtop cutouts (or at least not much of them) or we could hold off for the local laser shop to get their laser back to lasing -- or we could go the more expensive route of the shop in the big city.
Both first and last choices there require a fairly big MOQ although nothing a couple weeks of collecting orders wouldn't cover. I'm going to double check my math and update the OP with the waterjet prices.
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sign me up for fullhand stainless steel at the water jet.
I was originally planning on all SS, but since I can't seem to get the macbook-like finish I want, I'm going to settle with the massdrop acrylic plate as the highest plate and put a buttload of metal underneath.
EDIT:
I'm actually going to need a bunch of classic SS (10 layers), but I would prefer that THIS plate have switch cutouts just in case. If we can't get the laser cutter to get us switch cutouts, I'll just buy the cheaper of the two shops (going to assume that it's the waterjet).
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I like those waterjet prices! but I'm kinda worried about tolerances. Have there been any custom plate done by waterjet before?
Probably but I can't find an example in GIS right now. The main thing is that the switchtop removal cutouts won't be there. If I emphasize the bolt holes need to line up precisely (and I did, and it didn't draw any attention from the guy looking at the drawings and seeing how big they're not) than everything else should be copacetic.
So, we could proceed right now, full hand same cost as classic, with no switchtop cutouts (or at least not much of them) or we could hold off for the local laser shop to get their laser back to lasing -- or we could go the more expensive route of the shop in the big city.
Both first and last choices there require a fairly big MOQ although nothing a couple weeks of collecting orders wouldn't cover. I'm going to double check my math and update the OP with the waterjet prices.
I don't really care about switchtop cutouts. I'm fine with or without.
Maybe we can proceed with 1st option with waterjet and start collecting orders while you keep bugging the manager at your local laser shop ;)
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I would prefer stainless steel with cutouts. However, I will still buy an aluminum case without cutouts if that is more popular.
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I would prefer stainless steel with cutouts. However, I will still buy an aluminum case without cutouts if that is more popular.
Well, I think that's two votes for.
I've just spoken to the guy in the waterjet department of the welding shop -- he thinks that, for the folks that get cases (or especially for 'minimalist' cases) adding JD's spacer in the same metal would be an almost inconsequential cost.
Basically it sounds like set-up cost far outweighs their concern for material costs since they're asking the same for full-hand verses classic. The downside is I can't really offer much savings for getting a 'minimalist' case -- it won't actually be half the cost unless we have twenty or more orders; but I should (probably) be able to offer a 15% discount for a minimalist or extended-minimalist case.
To be safe I'll add a 10% 'fee' for adding the spacers -- $3 for an aluminum full-kit, $4.50 for SS. "Inconsequential" doesn't actually mean 'free upgrade' -- but the guy at the shop didn't sound worried about it either. E.G. Shipped, $42.50 for the 1st aluminum case, or $45.25 with matching standoffs) assuming we hit 15 or so orders total. A second case shouldn't bump the shipping too much, so $82, I think, for two extended minimalist cases in 6061 with matching spacers for both, shipped CONUS (add roughly $15 for international, as near as I can tell)
I'm going to PM folks on the waiting list, but if you haven't voted yet, go ahead and do so soon!
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Awesome, just put in an order for the minimalist case. I think I did it right.
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Waterjet? As said before (I think) they can't offer the tolerances -- They officially guarantee 0.015" precision but tell me that "most of the time" they can get "pretty close" to half that; seven or eight thousandths of an inch. I have prices from them.
Full kit, ten layers: $32/ea alum, $45/ea stainless -- ASSUMING ten copies ordered. I'm unclear at this moment if a general $350-MOQ amongst the various variations desired is close enough, or if the overhead is specific to each 'kit' -- I'll get clarification. But that would mean, assuming we met that expectation -- $50+shipping for the full-hand stainless steel, 1.5mm slices. Remember these are heavy, so it could conceivably exceed the 4lbs limit imposed on cheap international shipping. Probably $15 CONUS because my own boxes end up being much cheaper than the "any weight flat rate" boxes.
EA? Sorry, don't know this currency (and yes, I googled it)
How much the stainless steel would be in USD?
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EA? Sorry, don't know this currency (and yes, I googled it)
How much the stainless steel would be in USD?
Sorry for any confusion I've incurred. All my abbreviations refer to something that isn't currency ... minimum order quantity, continental united states, price-per-the-each (/ea)
oh! now I see. '/ea' confused you. The shop quoted $320 for ten, so that's thirty two each, or $32/ea. Grocery story abbreviation if nowhere else.
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I'm about to submit my order. Just a few questions for you sir.
If I get a non-minimalist full kit, it comes with 10 common layers + JD's spacers? Also how many layers of spacer?
Do we have the matching spacers for full hand case as well?
Ideally I'd like to order one classic alu and one full-hand SS.
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I'm about to submit my order. Just a few questions for you sir.
If I get a non-minimalist full kit, it comes with 10 common layers + JD's spacers? Also how many layers of spacer?
Do we have the matching spacers for full hand case as well?
Ideally I'd like to order one classic alu and one full-hand SS.
10 layers, and if you want the spacers there'll be a small fee. That's seven layers of spacer, and I've got a note somewhere of where they're expected (right below the PCB you'd need two, and maybe above the upper spacer too, I think)
No, there is not a full hand spacer. You should by all rights be able to use the classic spaces and then bolster the wrist rest with a block of wood, or foam, or scrap metal of a known thickness -- but you'd need to bolster it with something, and I don't have a lead on the something.
ALSO I have not updated the order form's prices. Sorry.
So here's the waterjet prices as I understand them (and yes this has always proven to be a bit of an adventure but it should be right)
$450/10, or $45/ea for 304 SS + 10% for spacer kit + sales tax + shipping + PP fee.
Sales tax is 8.7%, PP I'm assuming is around 3.5%. Shipping on a full hand should be $15, thus
$71.25 for the first full hand order. A second case doesn't seem to drive shipping up too much so same math but $320/10, or $32/ea + 10% + sales tax + ~2.5 or so + PP fee.
Right now I'm coming up with $113.50 for the combination (spacers for both) you've suggested assuming you're in the states. If I can fit it smoothly into a 'flat rate' box that will provide the upper limit to shipping but except for stainless steel it's proven cheaper to mail in my own boxes.
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Order submitted. and yes, I'd like JD spacers for both kits I ordered. I have an idea of what to use underneath the wrist rest.
Many thanks for doing round 2 for us even though you already got your case. I really appreciate it and I'm sure many others feel the same way as well.
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Many thanks for doing round 2 for us even though you already got your case. I really appreciate it and I'm sure many others feel the same way as well.
True!
TY AKmalamute :thumb:
So:
304 SS Ergodox Standard Case Pairs (The one without the wristrest)
$45 + $4.5 spacers + 8.7% tax + 3.5% PP
so so $60 per set without the shipping.
Is that right?
$180 per 3 - I want!!!
And the Alu case AKmalamute?
Assuming it is lower (or closer) to this price you already noted I would want 3 too!
I want 3 sets, 3 in 304 SS and 3 in Alu (whatever alu you get ;D )
is it possible?
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Submitted my order.
Looking forward to it.
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Stainless steel is popular! Of the outstanding orders, many of which are from March (sorry again, guys), SS outnumbers aluminum 2:1
I'm waiting to hear back on some finessing of a quote based on a particular PM, but today I'm out of town on vacation. Sometime Sunday or Monday I'll start sending out invoices and hopefully by June we'll have accumulated enough orders to make ordering from the waterjet shop worthwhile.
Not to throw a monkey wrench into everyone's consideration, but the quote is for a no-switchplate double-thickness case...Since waterjet time is the big money consumer in this order, and if you don't need/want the 1.5mm-as-Cherry-Decreed plate, there's no reason not to consider 1/8th" metal. I'll find out soon (hopefully) but I can't really imagine it would be "double the cost" like buying two cases, and would have less need for the spacers (a couple would end up being needed).
More when I get back, and if your name is on my form since way back when but you haven't piped up since the waterjet idea was brought up, feel free to offer your stance on getting your case via waterjet (since, the more the merrier).
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Let me know what I need to order. I just need a plate and bottom for my dox =/. On that note, does anyone have an extra pair of ergodox pcb for sale?
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i'm in for an alu case (ss sounds nice, but with international shipping it ain't nice enough), but:
Not to throw a monkey wrench into everyone's consideration, but the quote is for a no-switchplate double-thickness case...
hmmm, no plate at all? i was under the impression that it'd be a plate that just wouldn't let you dismantle the switches without unsoldering them first. i'm not sure i like the idea of not having any sort of plate to support my dodgy soldering.
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um....I want to place an order, but the constant changes are confusing.
and I don't know how to order fullhand.
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um....I want to place an order, but the constant changes are confusing.
and I don't know how to order fullhand.
I have to admit. I'm confused, too.
I got a pm before. I didn't know what to vote for.
I think I put an order in before. I just don't know what I requested.
What's the difference between "full" and "minimalistic"? Is one 5 layers and one is 6 layers?
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minimalist kit = bottom layer (layer 5) + plate layer (layer 3)
full kit = 5 common layers
As far as waterjet pricing goes, you only get 15% discount with minimalist kit. I'd say just get the full kit.
You can also get 7 spacer layers (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=55651.msg1262206#msg1262206) for 10% extra cost ($3 for alu, $4.50 for SS).
Prices are the same for full hand and classic.
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minimalist kit = bottom layer (layer 5) + plate layer (layer 3)
full kit = 5 common layers
As far as waterjet pricing goes, you only get 15% discount with minimalist kit. I'd say just get the full kit.
You can also get 7 spacer layers (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=55651.msg1262206#msg1262206) for 10% extra cost ($3 for alu, $4.50 for SS).
Prices are the same for full hand and classic.
Noob question: Why would I need a spacer layer if I already have all five layers?
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um....I want to place an order, but the constant changes are confusing.
and I don't know how to order fullhand.
different vendors with different prices - just that.
The first vendor, the one close to AKmalamute, is kinda slow and his laser cut broken, etc, etc ...
AKmalamute found other vendors for us.
:D
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minimalist kit = bottom layer (layer 5) + plate layer (layer 3)
full kit = 5 common layers
As far as waterjet pricing goes, you only get 15% discount with minimalist kit. I'd say just get the full kit.
You can also get 7 spacer layers (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=55651.msg1262206#msg1262206) for 10% extra cost ($3 for alu, $4.50 for SS).
Prices are the same for full hand and classic.
Noob question: Why would I need a spacer layer if I already have all five layers?
Each layer is only about ~1.5mm thick. You won't be able to build a complete case without some sort of standoffs - spacer layers, m3 nuts, silicone gaskets etc. With all things considered you'd probably need at least 7~8mm space between the plate and the bottom layer.
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I have to admit. I'm confused, too.
I got a pm before. I didn't know what to vote for.
I think I put an order in before. I just don't know what I requested.
I show one full kit, classic, in stainless steel. As has been pointed out yes the current quote is for a different vendor who has a different pricing tier so I wanted folks who had ordered under the lasercut prices to re-look at the waterjet possibility.
Main question to you now, is do you want spacers with your case (an extra $4.50 as said elsewhere) -- also, you can choose full-hand if you'd like for nothing extra. Or, wait for the laser shop to fix their giant paperweight / catch up with their smaller customers and use the old tier system which would allow for switchtop removal.
As to my quote request it turns out I confuzzled the vendor partly because I was bleary eyed when I typed it, and I've just gotten back from hundreds of miles of driving and am bleary eyed again; also, three-day weekend. So I can't ascertain more until on that particular front, until Tuesday. Sorry Loligagger.
Nevertheless, I'm going to (once I get back from work Saturday) begin the task of assembling the orders I definitely have, create invoices, and hopefully by next week I'll have enough to make this a proper money-and-time-saving group buy!
And thanks to adoginhost and YUIOP for answering questions in my absence. Good night and sleep well everybody.
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Just throwing out a random idea....What about cutting a number of just bottom plates from the 1/8" and mating those with the thinner steal switch plate layer when the laser comes back on line. I think it would make a fairly solid minimal case as the thicker steel bottom would add weight. I just was thinking of what would be interesting. I wouldn't know how much of a logistical nightmare that might be though.
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hi dudez... what is this spacer issue.. are the plates not the whole thickness of the case? so you need spacers between every single plate?
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hi dudez... what is this spacer issue.. are the plates not the whole thickness of the case? so you need spacers between every single plate?
That's the gist of it. The acrylic is thicker than the steel/aluminum plates being used so for it all to fit right spacers or a small standoff becomes necessary. Another option is go with standoffs that fit around the bolts and do a more minimal build using only 2-3 layers which a lot of us are interested in.
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hi dudez... what is this spacer issue.. are the plates not the whole thickness of the case? so you need spacers between every single plate?
That's the gist of it. The acrylic is thicker than the steel/aluminum plates being used so for it all to fit right spacers or a small standoff becomes necessary. Another option is go with standoffs that fit around the bolts and do a more minimal build using only 2-3 layers which a lot of us are interested in.
Hmmm... I think leaving out the spacers would be kinda cool like an old school 3d graphics render which just had a bunch of parallel planes.
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Quick update; I know I said I'd be producing invoices tonight but there's been a few cancellations, and I need to talk to the shop about what that will do to the bottom line. It has to do with their pricing scheme, and since they quoted producing ten of a particular metal, and we're now below ten stainless steel cases (nine, if there are no more cancellations) I need to find out if the overall price holds good when the SS gets added to the aluminum, of which I think we have between four and six, depending on how many of the older sign-ups want to continue with the current waterjet option.
Also there's that one quote for the plateless case. But if you guys are still ready with your PP account I'll pursue providing a place to send your money.
Hopefully, more tomorrow by mid-day (late evening here, now.)
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ty man!
:thumb:
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So, after some clarifying questions, I feel pretty sure waterjet (at least this shop) is not where we want to go.
See, I was totally misreading their first quote. I was asking for a quote for a case but said there'd be some volume to the order ... the quote was for a case but focusing on the fact there was some volume to the quote.
The $320, that I thought was for ten copies of the classic case in 6061 aluminum. The quote was for one case which, by the way, has ten pieces.
A full factor of ten more expensive than I was understanding them to be.
back to poking the laser company's project manager, I guess.
We had one successful round maybe we can still get a second one going.
I feel confused, frustrated and a little bit angry. But unless I strongly hear otherwise, round two is on hiatus again. (at these prices each individual case is well above MOQ so feel free to order one for yourself if you'd like)
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(╯°□°)╯︵ ┻━┻
In the back of my mind I had the feeling that waterjet price was too good to be true.
I really hope your laser shop can get their act together and start making some cases for us....
Thanks AKmalamute.
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Sorry to hear about that AKmalamute. At least things got cleared up before invoicing!!
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man....machine shops are a pain lol.
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Ahhh men, don't get sad - the world is beautiful!
:p
**** happens.
Although I do have hope - and we are not in a hurry ...
We will be still here.
:thumb:
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There's always the big-city laser shop. Their prices weren't phenomenal but it was only half-again the local shop's prices. Extended minimalist (no spacers) for $60 each but that dropped to $45.50 if twenty sets were bought -- because it was one full sheet of metal.
A high MOQ for this crowd but if it's the "whole sheet" aspect that's allowing that last bit of savings I've no doubt we could fill out at least a sheet of SS -- possibly a sheet of aluminum (currently 5 'cases' on my order sheet and it would take 20 x 6 layers to fill one sheet).
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60% for stainless minimal isn't terrible.
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Oh man, that would be awesome still!
Extended minimalist for 45 bucks without spacers, how many layers is this one?
The extended is that case version with those wrist rests is it right?
And how much for the "classic" in Stainless Steel? (without wrist rest)
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The extended is that case version with those wrist rests is it right?
No, sorry extended vertically from bare minimalist. 'mini' case was just the base, and switchplate. Several people wanted the top cover too. That, six layers with top cover (using the 'classic' .dxf files) was the extended minimalst.
I have the quote in front of me now. Full case classic was (cost to me not counting driving to the next city to get them) $83.50 in 6061, or $96.50 in 304 SS. Full hand, $86/$98.50.
I bet with some math I can figure the proportions out, if folks want to pursue this route.
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No, sorry extended vertically from bare minimalist. 'mini' case was just the base, and switchplate. Several people wanted the top cover too. That, six layers with top cover (using the 'classic' .dxf files) was the extended minimalst.
2x bottom, plate and top - 6 layers. Understood.
6061 Alu or 304 SS?
I have the quote in front of me now. Full case classic was (cost to me not counting driving to the next city to get them) $83.50 in 6061, or $96.50 in 304 SS. Full hand, $86/$98.50.
I bet with some math I can figure the proportions out, if folks want to pursue this route.
I would love to get one complete SS, just to test, but I still need to calculate the total to see if it fits into my pocket.
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The savings between classic, and "extended minimalist" was $23+ dollars, implying that for non-keyswitch layers it's just under $12 for each left/right pair. That would see a spacer kit land between forty and sixty, as JD's file has both sides in something that's just a little more surface area that a single layer for Listser's case (all those numbers are for 6061 aluminum).
When I get a chance I'll ask them for a quote on the spacer, and ask more details about "full sheet" savings (in the case of the ext-mini it was about a 1/4th drop in price -- impressive).
Again, everybody chime in if you want to pursue this route.
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I'm in if the price for classic extended SS is close to $100 after shipping (CONUS).
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i hope i don't come off badly doing this but im going to have to pull out of round 2 :(
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I've updated my spreadsheet with the cancellations.
I'd still rather deal with the local shop but if folks here want to move forward, the big-city shop is probably the best bet for that. I'll post here tomorrow when I hear back from them about the spacer quote.
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with the cost of the case, then shipping to the u.k. then getting reamed for import duty and fees & whatnot, i can only really justify going for cheapy aluminium options, so local, low-cost, and slow suits me ;)
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with the cost of the case, then shipping to the u.k. then getting reamed for import duty and fees & whatnot, i can only really justify going for cheapy aluminium options, so local, low-cost, and slow suits me ;)
Same for me but Alu, I would prefer 304 SS.
I think we can wait, no stress AKmalamute.
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Sorry, I haven't read through all the pages (at work supposedly :p)...
Just looking through that order form:
Does the SS case have the plate with removable switchtops?
Also, when it says "full case", that just refers to the number of layers, right? I don't want the fullhand ergodox, just the smaller one.
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Full case is all 10 layers vs Minimalist which is the switch layer and the base. Extended Minimalist is Layers 1, 3, and 5 or base, switch, and top. The classic case is the smaller form factor as apposed to the full hand.
The plate Dorkvader posted pics of looks like it has the cutouts to open switches without de-soldering. AKmalamute would be able to confirm it.
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Well, I guess I will be buying the massdrop set instead of finding everything myself. Hope to get the minimalist some time soon AK!
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The plate Dorkvader posted pics of looks like it has the cutouts to open switches without de-soldering. AKmalamute would be able to confirm it.
Technically it would depend on where we got it. The .dxf I have, is the widely distributed one which has the cutouts but we (I) were looking at watejet, which would badly smudge those cutouts
We're back to looking at lasers, which have the precision to mainatain the cutouts. Haven't heard from the big city shop but prices are better if the local shop (who did the work before) can be convinced to accept our business -- or fix their laser cutter, whichever the problem actually is.
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The plate Dorkvader posted pics of looks like it has the cutouts to open switches without de-soldering. AKmalamute would be able to confirm it.
Technically it would depend on where we got it. The .dxf I have, is the widely distributed one which has the cutouts but we (I) were looking at watejet, which would badly smudge those cutouts
We're back to looking at lasers, which have the precision to mainatain the cutouts. Haven't heard from the big city shop but prices are better if the local shop (who did the work before) can be convinced to accept our business -- or fix their laser cutter, whichever the problem actually is.
hmmm what about small circles instead of square edges for the switch tool cutout.
or ovals even, cuz all we need is the Clearance.. precision angles are not necessary.
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hmmm what about small circles instead of square edges for the switch tool cutout.
or ovals even, cuz all we need is the Clearance.. precision angles are not necessary.
I'd be in favor, but the waterjet shop wanted $32 per piece of metal -- a case would be $320.
Plus tax, shipping, PP -- it was too ugly to follow up on.
EDIT: I hope to have news Sunday night. Apparently the local laser shop tried getting work from the same waterjet shop, and got the same not-reasonable quotes. On the bright side now that the project manager is hearing me talk of the competition he's going to, I think, work a bit harder to get us back on the queue.
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hmmm what about small circles instead of square edges for the switch tool cutout.
or ovals even, cuz all we need is the Clearance.. precision angles are not necessary.
I'd be in favor, but the waterjet shop wanted $32 per piece of metal -- a case would be $320.
Plus tax, shipping, PP -- it was too ugly to follow up on.
EDIT: I hope to have news Sunday night. Apparently the local laser shop tried getting work from the same waterjet shop, and got the same not-reasonable quotes. On the bright side now that the project manager is hearing me talk of the competition he's going to, I think, work a bit harder to get us back on the queue.
I love better news.
thanks for all the work you put into these. I will definitely be ordering a set in round2 when it happens (if I can afford it)
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FINALLY Project Manager has looked at the kits, including full-hand, and given me a quote
Its always possible it'll turn out he was wrong but he was pretty close last time.
Same logic as before but I'm separating shipping and production costs, now that I have an idea what that will run.
FIRST: costs to the shop:
Aluminum, $35.50, $14.25 for the minimalist or $20.50 for the extended minimalist. Spacer kit $30.50 or $34.85 depending (about $4 each copy, plus tax, and it adds a few cents to the shipping cost but not much I'd assume).
FULL HAND will be on the menu this round, and: $39 for all ten pieces. $16/$23, as I understand it, for mini / ext-mini versions. (note, again, spacers' shape: the classic case; we don't have fullhand spacers at the moment)
Stainless Steel: $61/$28/$40 {$61/$70} $66.50/$30/$45 in the same order as listed above for 6061.
Shipping: please warn me if you're not in the states. Most orders went out last time for about $10-13 aluminum, and nearly $15 for stainless but that was across the whole continent so ... I'm approximating those numbers by saying $12 for your first case, add $2 for SS or $2 for more cases -- I probably have to double the effect for a second SS case, too. I'll look again at the postal services' flat rate boxes so I know where the upper limit to that game is.
While the international order we had last round was well over $25 to ship, several other countries I've looked at could fall into that range so that's my starting point. As I'm trying not to inflate shipping I'm listing the "low" number but if you're used to paying more for shipping from the US you probably will for this GB too. The shop manager said it wouldn't be unreasonable to drop-ship your kit straight from the plant via UPS but there's be paperwork on my part -- let me know if you want to pursue that particular route.
Don't forget I'll add 3.5% PP-tax when I create the invoice, and that should be it.
I'm off to edit the OP then I'm off to ride horses. Hope those of you on your day off are having a great weekend!
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From the OP:
I still have all the orders added to the form while I was investigating the waterjet shop; feel free to PM if using this laser shop changes anything.
Does this mean those of us who submitted orders don't need to do anything extra to stay in this GB?
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From the OP:
I still have all the orders added to the form while I was investigating the waterjet shop; feel free to PM if using this laser shop changes anything.
Does this mean those of us who submitted orders don't need to do anything extra to stay in this GB?
That's right. I assume you're still interested so if current prices look good, I'll invoice "soon" and in due course you'll get your case.
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I'm in for an aluminum minimalist to Australia! Thanks AKMalamute!! ;D
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HALLELUJAH!
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Great news!
I'd like to revise my order. I'd imagine the easiest way is to submit a new order. When I do, can you please disregard my old one?
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I'm in for an aluminum minimalist to Australia! Thanks AKMalamute!! ;D
I think that's one of the "farther countries" -- but I'll investigate. Spacers? Minimalist kit doesn't weigh much it's less than half a kilo. Glad to be of service.
Great news!
I'd like to revise my order. I'd imagine the easiest way is to submit a new order. When I do, can you please disregard my old one?
Can do.
HALLELUJAH!
You were going to put the Teensy underneath the left hand, correct?
...I think all you need is a minimalist case and seven spacers, but I'm feeling fuzzy right now so I'll post to the group: Would swapping the right upper for the left lower, and moving one of the "extra" above the PCB in "other" cases so that it's below the PCB, be enough for everything to fit smoothly?
Brainstorm: you may need one more spacer than you think you need. I was looking at my case today, and it occurred to me that JD's spacer might fit around the PCB. This is a very good thing for stability but the count of seven assumes, if I recall, that the PCB will be a fully fledged and participating member of the case -- if the spacer fits neatly around it, that will make that assumption completely true at the expense of a spacer.
I don't know, because I haven't seen them. I'll post pictures when I have them in my hand so this question can be answered by all.
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You were going to put the Teensy underneath the left hand, correct?
...I think all you need is a minimalist case and seven spacers, but I'm feeling fuzzy right now so I'll post to the group: Would swapping the right upper for the left lower, and moving one of the "extra" above the PCB in "other" cases so that it's below the PCB, be enough for everything to fit smoothly?
Brainstorm: you may need one more spacer than you think you need. I was looking at my case today, and it occurred to me that JD's spacer might fit around the PCB. This is a very good thing for stability but the count of seven assumes, if I recall, that the PCB will be a fully fledged and participating member of the case -- if the spacer fits neatly around it, that will make that assumption completely true at the expense of a spacer.
I don't know, because I haven't seen them. I'll post pictures when I have them in my hand so this question can be answered by all.
yessir :) I was assuming that the spacers fit around the pcb, I don't see why they wouldn't. So I would need to account for the increased height of the pcb from the left hand teensy. I have no clue what the height of the teensy is so I would need to ask someone. Dorkvader?
I'm not really in a rush anymore, so take your time :) Thank you!
I may just end up soldering the teensy on the top inverted rather than on the back.
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I'm in for an aluminum minimalist to Australia! Thanks AKMalamute!! ;D
I think that's one of the "farther countries" -- but I'll investigate. Spacers? Minimalist kit doesn't weigh much it's less than half a kilo. Glad to be of service.
Doesn't get much further...
I don't need spacers, I actually like the "open" look where you can see the insides...
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Order re-submitted. please destroy my old one.
JD's spacers fit around the pcb for sure. I think we should go with 8 spacers. 3 can go between the top and the middle(plate). 5 between the middle and the bottom.
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You were going to put the Teensy underneath the left hand, correct?
...I think all you need is a minimalist case and seven spacers, but I'm feeling fuzzy right now so I'll post to the group: Would swapping the right upper for the left lower, and moving one of the "extra" above the PCB in "other" cases so that it's below the PCB, be enough for everything to fit smoothly?
Brainstorm: you may need one more spacer than you think you need. I was looking at my case today, and it occurred to me that JD's spacer might fit around the PCB. This is a very good thing for stability but the count of seven assumes, if I recall, that the PCB will be a fully fledged and participating member of the case -- if the spacer fits neatly around it, that will make that assumption completely true at the expense of a spacer.
I don't know, because I haven't seen them. I'll post pictures when I have them in my hand so this question can be answered by all.
yessir :) I was assuming that the spacers fit around the pcb, I don't see why they wouldn't. So I would need to account for the increased height of the pcb from the left hand teensy. I have no clue what the height of the teensy is so I would need to ask someone. Dorkvader?
I'm not really in a rush anymore, so take your time :) Thank you!
I may just end up soldering the teensy on the top inverted rather than on the back.
I put the teensy above the LH, so I could have room for a socket.
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Okay I'm at work and don't have time to check what's updated and what's not, but I'm pretty sure 1st/2nd posts are accurate.
A couple orders via PM-only, and we're at about ten cases for each metal. I'm going to create invoices this weekend, give everybody a week to pay I guess, during which time last-minuters can get in too, then send in the order.
But in the mean time I'm going to drive out there at lunch to see how close to production the spacer order is. Should be done by now if he hasn't slipped us down the line any.
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Woo excited! What do you have me down for AK?
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Anybody having pictures of the final product ? Both minimal and classic ? If I buy classic can it also be minimal by removing a few plates ?
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DorkVader posted a photo of the classic plate here http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=55651.msg1284878#msg1284878 (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=55651.msg1284878#msg1284878)
Minimal is just the middle and bottom layers of a complete case, either in the classic or the full hand shape.
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Thanks zflamewing.. I missed those posts when I was overseas.. im up for it !! Looks great
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I posted some pictures of mine earlier in the thread.
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akm, did you get my order?
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akm, did you get my order?
I didn't create a spreadsheet entry, and I didn't save the last PM I sent you. What I have, is notes for a full hand case, with spacer kit, all in stainless steel.
Just one case, or were you wanting a second case is 'classic' ? I hadn't thought so but something about my notes makes me think you were hoping for that.
I'll create the entry now for one FH case in stainless and you can PM if that's wrong ;)
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pm sent :)
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Here's a small update, and why I haven't created invoices today. I'm off work tomorrow, and I spoke with the shop guy Friday who said, since they were so backlogged he'd send my job off to their other site, and expected them by courier Monday -- that would be the spacers that no one's seen physical copies of because no one's made them yet.
It's remotely possible that the project manager is holding off having the small order of spacers cut because I said I was seriously gearing up for another real order (in which case he wants to have one cutting job, not two) -- not sure how I feel about that, if it turns out to be true but he really did cut our cases for round one, so I'd probably go ahead with billing if I can't show you guys pictures tomorrow afternoon / evening.
HOPEFULLY I can show you guys pictures of the spacer layer as-cut, and we can all decide how many for our respective cases we'll need to make everything fit.
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Here's hoping that the spacers miraculously appear tomorrow! :D
But seriously, if you don't get anything from him regarding the spacers by tomorrow, you should try to convey to him that the only thing holding up you placing the new, sizeable order is the need to physically inspect those spacers before you can proceed. Maybe that will get him to move on it for you.
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I've created about half the invoices; more after work.
No, I haven't seen the spacers but he insists their other shop has cut them. Since that's "only" about two, maybe three hours (granted, each way) I can threaten to drive down there and pick them up myself. But he did say that if they're not en route today, he'll have them UPS 'em to my door -- so, really -- very soon. Or else.
I think I'll quote Cave Johnson: "I like your grip, son. Hustle could use some work though. now lets SOLVE THIS THING"
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What is looking like the cut off time for this round?
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What is looking like the cut off time for this round?
I'm wanting to place the order Monday, so "about a week" unless zeitgeist or real-life express opposing opinions.
Edit: just realized we have a user by that name. No, I meant "hive mind" or "generally stated opinion of 'everybody'"
In completely unrelated news, I just figured out how and where to order brand new plate-mount Cherry stabilizers. This calls for a bookmark.
So, edit the thirde: June 11th. Spacer kits fell through the cracks again. But I think I got the manager in trouble because I called the other site, who had not cut his parts, so I really am in the queue this time. Pretty sure.
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Paid! I have my ergodox all soldered except for the switches. Very much looking forward to this :)
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Paid!
:D
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Paid!
US$14.25 for metal that was dug out of rock, crushed and melted into shape using extreme temperatures, then cut with a computer-controlled laser to an amazing tolerance.
US$25 just to get it to Australia.
Postage is a scam.
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paid!!!
ps, i've never gotten stuff from seattle to bc before.
anyone know how long that usually takes?
i need to show my ergodox to somebody and would like to get it encased in metal by then. but it's honestly not a big deal. curious more than anything.
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Ordered an extended minimalist!
I can't believe I just found this now, I have been looking for exactly this. :)
I am happy to see that my minimalist case concept has inspired others. :)
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Just received and paid my invoice.
I can't wait to see what the full hand looks like in person.
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I am looking to build my first hand wired keyboard with this and the Enabler PCBS. My main question is how to extend the matrix between the two sides. I am planning to use a teensy for this. I am assuming that I will need to connect one wire for each row and column from the non teensy side to the teensy side. Thats a lot of wires (maybe even more than an RJ45), so is there a way to simplify that?
Maybe I should start my own thread for this question?
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check out some of the (admittedly huuuge) threads on the design of the ergodox. it uses an i2c chip to allow the teensy in the right hand to communicate with the switches on the left via only 4 wires. in the normal design this is the dreaded trrs cable & connectors that have been problematic for a number of ergodoxers, but that could be replaced with a sturdier socket like a phone jack, or just have a 4 connector wire permanently attached.
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check out some of the (admittedly huuuge) threads on the design of the ergodox. it uses an i2c chip to allow the teensy in the right hand to communicate with the switches on the left via only 4 wires. in the normal design this is the dreaded trrs cable & connectors that have been problematic for a number of ergodoxers, but that could be replaced with a sturdier socket like a phone jack, or just have a 4 connector wire permanently attached.
Thanks for the response. When I have an hour or so I will do some research in those threads. I will also look into finding an i2c chip. Thanks...
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I am looking to build my first hand wired keyboard with this and the Enabler PCBS.
It would be worth its own thread in making-stuff, yes, but:
One solution, if you didn't want to learn how to talk to an IO expander, would be to use a ribbon cable like from an old IDE hard drive. I believe the Ultra-DMA capable cables had 80 wires, although separating them is likely to be a complete pain BUT they were made in 3-foot lengths.
IF you had one, with no middle connectors, you could roll it up, and it would be a stout but otherwise unremarkable cable that would give you at least two feet between the two hands.
Of course, an IO expander would let you use a phone cord, and then you could embed that into your recliner. Add some bluefruit wireless modules and you could sit in your favorite easy chair, 'internetting' on the wide screen television.
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Can't wait for these plates!!
Am happy this is happening, nice to have a quality metal case for a the ergo.
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I keep having to remind myself the reason I keep coming back to this shop, is because they've been the most responsive of all the shops I've contacted.
Bosses there are away luring bigger fish. The folks on the floor are great to work with but concerning certain aspects their hands are tied.
Anyway, I was quoted just last week a price for JDcarpe's spacers, per copy, and when I went to pick them up today, I was told the system has them entered at double my quote for aluminum (same price for SS; no discrepancy there).
Not much point in throwing hissy fit these are the wrong folks to do that with. But I explained, the secretary called the project manager, who said "Oh its double because the .dxf describes two parts and my quote was per-piece"
Uh ... Why is SS not doubled, then? Try again. Secretary got permission to write up the parts-acknowledgement (she cant create invoices) at the quoted price and the project manager will sort it out Monday.
They're going to cut it right now*, and I'll pick them up with the cash I expected to bring, and I'll get photos to you guys when I can, which should be within 5-10 hours from now.
* Just got a call from that secretary, who says there's a scheduled job ahead of me. Should be done Monday, they expect. No pictures tonight.
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Thanks for dealing with all this for us AK :)
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Can someone explain the parts of the case to me? What are spacers? What does minimalist, full hand, whole case etc mean?
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Can someone explain the parts of the case to me? What are spacers? What does minimalist, full hand, whole case etc mean?
Let's start with Litster's case. as cut by MD in acrylic, picture here (https://d2qmzng4l690lq.cloudfront.net/resizer/img_bucket/ergodox/dox-acrylic-2.jpg), (MD counts them from the ground up. I believe litster's github counts them from your fingers down -- keep track of that, if you take the .dxf's to a local shop) the 'whole case' is all ten pieces -- the five left-hand pieces pictured, and the matching right hand.
Unless someone asks otherwise, I would always assume you want both left and right parts of the case.
the minimalist case, is layer 1, and 3. Only. Extended minimalist includes layer 5.
here (https://s3.amazonaws.com/massdropinc/product-images/fullhandcase.jpeg) is an example of the 'full-hand' case, also in litster's github repository, again cut acrylic but this time stacked, and one hand has some MX-blues in all the holes but probably no PCB. Same logic applies -- layer one/three, 1/3/5, all five (times two) layers.
BUT in order to keep with Cherry's spec for the switchplate for plate-mounted MX series keyswitches, the switchplate is 1.5mm, which is 1/16", except what I'm ordering is 16 gauge, which might be in between those two I'm not positive. Somewhere in that range is the keyswitch's thickness in this group buy, and in order to prevent the shop from screwing up (and also to keep the processing simple, which holds price down) I'm ordering all layers ordered, off the same 16 gauge sheet.
Because of the thinness of the layers, and the height of the electronics involved, you'll need something to keep the layers apart (OP has a link to an article where someone used 1/8" acrylic for every layer, and it just barely worked). JDcarpe has been gracious enough to write up a 'spacer' that uses almost no metal but will, if stacked at the right height, hold everything apart -- all that's needed after that are the screws and one nut per screw, instead of about seven nuts per screw if you went that particular route.
Other routes are available to keep soldered electronics from shorting out. You could use JDcarpe's spacer, you could use more M3 nuts, you could cut a layer of nonconducive material yourself, or you could use tubes that fit around the M3 screws but brace against the case. Anything to keep stuff from touching if they're going to complain about what side of the couch their electrons have slid to, would work.
Metals offered, are 304 stainless steel, and 6061 aluminum.
Also I'm going to close ordering tomorrow -- we're already over $1,000 to the shop, which hopefully should be enough to pique their interest into actually doing the work.
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Got a minimal stainless in classic. Now I have options when I assemble my first kit.
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In completely unrelated news, I just figured out how and where to order brand new plate-mount Cherry stabilizers. This calls for a bookmark.
Where? I'd like to order some. They make a huge difference for the thumb switches on the ergodox.
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First of all, I put stuff into an album here (http://imgur.com/a/0v4U3) but let me point out some details.
http://i.imgur.com/dw0p1kF.jpg That one is pretty straight forward ... I've inserted my switches into the switchplate, which I have pictures elsewhere of, and have carefully laid the SMD-equipped board onto the pins.
Here's a picture with three spacer layers sitting onto the upside down plate. Because of their lack of size, and the harshness of the shop's environment / goons / my sudden stops getting them home / whatever, okay? / etc they're just a bit unstraight. Biggest issue I had was getting screws to go all the way through, but getting them to lay flat as in this picture below, was a close second. HOWEVER once you've jockeyed them into place it all starts to fit together.
[attach=1]
My intent, now that I've seen all the parts, is to solder the pins to the board, as in picture one. I find already I'll wish for some kind of squishy thing like woodworkers have to hold pieces together while the glue dries. Moving on ... After pins are soldered, I'll stack three spacer followed by the 'official' lower spacer -- clearing the PCB will be a near thing, but that's what I want -- just enough to know it won't touch.
[attach=2]
That pictures, is the spacers I have now -- more on that in a moment -- So, as above, three spacers, followed by the lower spacer which you can make out if you watch for outline changes, followed by another of JD's spacers, and it was bolted together sans base at this point, and moved upright for further fitment tests.
[attach=3]
Of particular interest to some, might be the large open gap left by JD's spacer relative to the MD acrylic.
Because my inter-board connector is off-board I don't need anywhere as much clearance which is good, because communication isn't this shop's strong suit. Have I mentioned that?
So, JDcarpe's file is a nested both RH/LH thing. The project manager asked about that -- 'hey this makes two things. Are you ordering things or copies of the .dxf? Why, thank you for asking! Copies, not things!
I got things this afternoon. They're going to clean up their mess and HOPEFULLY I'll have the other half in the morning. And hopefully this won't happen again when I submit the order.
Speaking of which, there's still about four unpaid invoices -- I'll be cancelling those if I don't hear from you real soon so I can submit the order tomorrow after I finish updating all my notes in my various places. Once these are in my hand and in the mail, I'll be honest I'm probably not going to run a round three. Too many headaches.
A friend asked about buying a laser myself, so I could bypass the shop. Uhh? 1500w turn-key system (meaning all the important stuff is missing so you can buy it next month when you have income from the thing) starts out, supposedly at $300,000 plus maintenance, as they burn through CO2 like it was a fuel -- in addition to the 1500w of electricity.
Ah, well. I hope you're all still excited, because I'm still going forward with spending your money.
Because the Ergodox is metal.
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That looks amazing, almost wished I bought another for my non-existent 2nd Ergo-Dox.
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So, JDcarpe's file is a nested both RH/LH thing. The project manager asked about that -- 'hey this makes two things. Are you ordering things or copies of the .dxf? Why, thank you for asking! Copies, not things!
Thanks for going through all the hassle for us, akmalamute, I hate dealing with idiots. How do people like this get to be in charge of a business with a $300,000 piece of equipment?!
BTW I can get you a good deal on .dxf copies for half the price they'll do them for!! Any takers?!
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Thank for the update and pics. metaldox ftw
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Looks sweet. I can't wait til these come in. Though looking at my ergodox again makes me think I don't want to go through the hassle of desoldering my switches... I guess that means I have to build another keyboard.
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okay.
sounds like the order is done EXCEPT for half of the ordered jd spacers.
if so, thats GREAT news. otherwise, i feel bad for akm having to continue dealing with these guys.
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sounds like the order is done EXCEPT for half of the ordered jd spacers.
Round one is done. I'm just about to submit round two ... official policy is, MOQ is $120 and lead time is 3-5 business days. As you can see, it's more like $250 / 3-5 business weeks. Yes, we broke MOQ. Into pieces.
$1,100 to the shop, guys! Now it's a waiting game to see if I break their laser again. :D
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So each spacer kit comes with 8 'copies' of JD's dxf? in other words 16 'things', correct?
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So each spacer kit comes with 8 'copies' of JD's dxf? in other words 16 'things', correct?
Some folks requested seven copies, so 14 'things' -- but yes. That was the way it was quoted, that's the way I'm ordering it.
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$1,100 to the shop, guys! Now it's a waiting game to see if I break their laser again. :D
NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOooooooooooooooo!
:))
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$1,100 to the shop, guys! Now it's a waiting game to see if I break their laser again. :D
No wonder they're unresponsive to you :P
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Looks like I just missed this one. It's too bad you're not doing a Round 3... I'd be super interested.
Be sure to post some pics of your final builds for too-slow guys like me to drool over. :P
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Monday's update: It's not in the queue yet. Also, the project manager wasn't in, but the folks I spoke said encouraging things. The shop is busy and running a 7-9 day lead time for most projects, the manager's assistant remembered that a cash-sale order had recently been handed off to programming to 'snug up' for nesting purposes, and all else being equal he might expect it would be done by Friday.
I left my phone number but I've only been called once in all this time so I don't expect that will yield new information. Instead, I'll go back out there tomorrow or the next day, see if I can catch the project manager and bug him directly about getting this finished.
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Thanks for the update! That sounds promising :)
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@AKmalamute,
Not sure, it's too late to join or not?
I'd like to get one, exactly as on pictures from @Gold on first page - combo of two aluminium + top acrylic, and all needed spacers/screws/etc.
Is this possible?
If yes, please provide amounts to pay, with shipping to Ukraine.
Thanks!
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@AKmalamute,
Not sure, it's too late to join or not?
Sorry, the order has already been submitted, and is in process. I'm also not going to be running round three during summer - if the market hasn't flooded I may pick this up in the fall, however.
Also, the thing on page one is, essentially, a mock-up. Primary differences between that image, and this GB, are the thickness of metal (I'm focusing on 16 gauge, or "1.5mm" metal sheets) and I'm not messing with spacers (aside from JDcarpe's .dxf, which is deliberately intended to fit as part of this GB) nor am I dealing with acrylic for various and sundry reasons, nor am I trying to source M3 screws or the like.
Now, on to everyone else: I've received acknowledgement that the order was entered, and it's completely on-target price wise. However, it also shows it was entered into their system yesterday and if what I heard Monday is right, there's a 7-9 day lead right now ... we'll be looking at July before they so much as reach the post office.
Or, in glass-half-full format, these things you guys have ordered should be in your hands before July is done. ;D
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As my father used to say, "Great things comes to s/he who waits."
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Or, in glass-half-full format, these things you guys have ordered should be in your hands before July is done. ;D
To have something I ordered in June arrive in July is more than glass half full as far as GH Group Buys go. Awesome!
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@AKmalamute,
Not sure, it's too late to join or not?
Sorry, the order has already been submitted, and is in process. I'm also not going to be running round three during summer - if the market hasn't flooded I may pick this up in the fall, however.
Also, the thing on page one is, essentially, a mock-up. Primary differences between that image, and this GB, are the thickness of metal (I'm focusing on 16 gauge, or "1.5mm" metal sheets) and I'm not messing with spacers (aside from JDcarpe's .dxf, which is deliberately intended to fit as part of this GB) nor am I dealing with acrylic for various and sundry reasons, nor am I trying to source M3 screws or the like.
Now, on to everyone else: I've received acknowledgement that the order was entered, and it's completely on-target price wise. However, it also shows it was entered into their system yesterday and if what I heard Monday is right, there's a 7-9 day lead right now ... we'll be looking at July before they so much as reach the post office.
Or, in glass-half-full format, these things you guys have ordered should be in your hands before July is done. ;D
glass 3/4 full
less time between round 2 and round 3
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Or, in glass-half-full format, these things you guys have ordered should be in your hands before July is done. ;D
That's absolutely excellent! Thanks for all your work AKmalamute.
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Or, in glass-half-full format, these things you guys have ordered should be in your hands before July is done. ;D
That's absolutely excellent! Thanks for all your work AKmalamute.
+1
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The order acknowledgement listed today as being completion date. I called to ask if it was complete, and received an email (woo! A rare occurrence!) that the material hadn't come in yet. ... Hopefully tomorrow it can be completed.
But Not Friday because that's a holiday here, and then the weekend ... so ... Might be Monday.
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AK That's good news. We're on the docket and they're waiting on the raw mats to process. I'm excited to see how these turn out. One step closer to having my first dox.
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Hey AK, would you be willing to share your files with me? I have a relative who owns a high end machine shop here in Orlando. It's possible I could run a round 3 in a few months if the interest is still there... assuming you've had enough of it. ;D
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Hey AK, would you be willing to share your files with me? I have a relative who owns a high end machine shop here in Orlando. It's possible I could run a round 3 in a few months if the interest is still there... assuming you've had enough of it. ;D
Its all the publicly available stuff, but sure ... tomorrow. Right now I need to get to bed. Not sure why I'm not yet; its already tomorrow.
Hopefully round two is cut & polished when I saunter into the shop sometime before noon -- Monday is my day off but it's also errand day so I may not be near the computer much. But I've already planned the 'its been cut and they're in my hand' message I'll post when I have pictures of this massive (by my personal standards) order in front of me.
edit: grammar needs sleep for clarity.
Afternoon edit: I've seen them. They've been lasered, but need cleaning up. I should be able to pick them up on my way to work tomorrow. That means I won't be able to pack anything until the weekend (probably) but ... Round two, nearly to shipping!
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i'm more excited than anyone else....i'm sure of it.
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i'm more excited than anyone else....i'm sure of it.
:D
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From the labs of Dr. Weird-looking-malamute-guy-who's-never-been-to-Alaska:
Gentleman, BEHOLD:
[attach=1]
METAL
This time, it shall be DIFFERENT
[attach=2]
ITS NOT DIFFERENT AT ALL!
[attach=3]
IS IT STEVE ?! !? !?
now,
LET THE COLLATING BEGIN
[attach=4]
Uh, yeah.
Also, in case I wanted it:
[attach=5]
It's the part that was cut out. Since this was the one double-thickness order, I know which piece it goes to, and I have what was around it, too. Except I'm missing one of the lower-spacer pieces from it so ...
Also a bunch of the spacers are missing, and I don't know for sure what else. So I can start packing, I think, but that won't be 'til this weekend and even then I obviously don't have everybody's in yet. I wish it would have been done on my weekday off so I could insist on laying it all out on a big table and counting it with them they can't seem to get stuff done right or on time. Fortunately the workmanship seems pretty good -- and the price. Just not the speed or accuracy. </shrug>
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(http://25.media.tumblr.com/130cc7fae93b404c8d79b5dcc71f3999/tumblr_mzh51akQtB1qzx1gjo1_400.gif)
Amaazing :cool:
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WOW
those pics made my year.
GJ doc!
EDIT:
ps
the only person more excited than my previous self is my current self
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So, First two boxes out. A few surprises.
To wit, if you're in Canada, and expecting a SS case, I probably need to ding you an extra $20 for shipping. Almost positive though, that aluminum falls under that magical divide of four pounds, under which everything is as I foretold it.
Also, it turns out there's a flat-rate box that will accept these cases (Looked several times and thought there was no way ...) but it will only be cheaper (and only by fifty cents) if you're getting SS shipped CONUS. So, stateside stainless buyers, I guess you get the fancy box.
More as it develops.
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hey AKM,
can you doublecheck the shipping costs for my order? it's 'special' :D
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So, First two boxes out. A few surprises.
To wit, if you're in Canada, and expecting a SS case, I probably need to ding you an extra $20 for shipping. Almost positive though, that aluminum falls under that magical divide of four pounds, under which everything is as I foretold it.
Also, it turns out there's a flat-rate box that will accept these cases (Looked several times and thought there was no way ...) but it will only be cheaper (and only by fifty cents) if you're getting SS shipped CONUS. So, stateside stainless buyers, I guess you get the fancy box.
More as it develops.
I received your e-mail and replied. If you'd like send me another invoice with the additional cost, or I could just send the money to your e-mail with Paypal
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I received your e-mail and replied. If you'd like send me another invoice with the additional cost, or I could just send the money to your e-mail with Paypal
Since you've already paid the invoice proper, and all you owe me is the shipping difference, I'd figured just the requested-via-paypal thing would suffice.
I'll be going to the post office in the morning with a few packages, then scrounging up boxes from work so I can get more out in the afternoon.
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Since you've already paid the invoice proper, and all you owe me is the shipping difference, I'd figured just the requested-via-paypal thing would suffice.
I'll be going to the post office in the morning with a few packages, then scrounging up boxes from work so I can get more out in the afternoon.
Ok, sent you the difference (32$) to your email.
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Since you've already paid the invoice proper, and all you owe me is the shipping difference, I'd figured just the requested-via-paypal thing would suffice.
I'll be going to the post office in the morning with a few packages, then scrounging up boxes from work so I can get more out in the afternoon.
Ok, sent you the difference (32$) to your email.
holy ****. how much did you order....? lol
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holy ****. how much did you order....? lol
It was a communication error that led to a clerical error -- namely, I didn't catch that he was in canada in time to bill for international shipping. We talked about it then, and decided it would be easier to adjust for correct shipping now.
So, tracking info for the lucky few -- and I hope to get more out in a few hours. Hopefully this won't _really_ take all week. Also I'm going to go talk to the shop, see where we're at for the missing spacers, since that's holding up a few of the shipments.
Evening edit: two more out. TWELVE CASES SIT UPON MY KITCHEN TABLE so that means we're making decent progress.
Turns out, stainless steel is heavy. Should have added a dollar just to CONUS -- in addition to the $20 for int'l. that I didn't know about.
Also, I'm out of spacers -- shop says it will be Monday before the replacements are cut. So, funny story -- in the box, was the interior of a few of the pieces. A donut hole, when I wanted a donut. Nicely polished, completely useless to me. I thought it was funny, and I showed the project manager today. He was polite to me, but seemed pissed. The more I thought about, the more that makes sense. His guys are sucking down double time (once to do it wrong, once to do it right) to polish and pack garbage the customer doesn't want -- that could have been thrown into the recycling bin to recover a few pennies instead of costing a few dollars.
Still, there are orders that don't include a spacer kit -- I'll try to package some of those up tomorrow.
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holy ****. how much did you order....? lol
It was a communication error that led to a clerical error -- namely, I didn't catch that he was in canada in time to bill for international shipping. We talked about it then, and decided it would be easier to adjust for correct shipping now.
So, tracking info for the lucky few -- and I hope to get more out in a few hours. Hopefully this won't _really_ take all week. Also I'm going to go talk to the shop, see where we're at for the missing spacers, since that's holding up a few of the shipments.
Evening edit: two more out. TWELVE CASES SIT UPON MY KITCHEN TABLE so that means we're making decent progress.
Turns out, stainless steel is heavy. Should have added a dollar just to CONUS -- in addition to the $20 for int'l. that I didn't know about.
Also, I'm out of spacers -- shop says it will be Monday before the replacements are cut. So, funny story -- in the box, was the interior of a few of the pieces. A donut hole, when I wanted a donut. Nicely polished, completely useless to me. I thought it was funny, and I showed the project manager today. He was polite to me, but seemed pissed. The more I thought about, the more that makes sense. His guys are sucking down double time (once to do it wrong, once to do it right) to polish and pack garbage the customer doesn't want -- that could have been thrown into the recycling bin to recover a few pennies instead of costing a few dollars.
Still, there are orders that don't include a spacer kit -- I'll try to package some of those up tomorrow.
Wow. Nice job dude. You are a machine.
This is by far the fastest turn around on a GB I think I have ever been involved in.
If that wasn't enough, you helped get the GH60 GB on track at the same time.
AKmalamute for president. :)
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Got my R1 order and spacers today. Thanks, man! These look great. Now I just need to dig out my ErgoDox kit. Haha
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Got my R1 order and spacers today. Thanks, man! These look great. Now I just need to dig out my ErgoDox kit. Haha
Ya. I need to read up on how the io expander works so I can hand wire my dox when the enablers arrive.
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Wow. Nice job dude. You are a machine.
This is by far the fastest turn around on a GB I think I have ever been involved in.
If that wasn't enough, you helped get the GH60 GB on track at the same time.
AKmalamute for president. :)
Well, on the GH60 I think all I did was say something about stab-wires and how I'd handle it if it were my order ... mostly trying to lower emotion because people were upset maybe a little out of proportion to the problems.
Like a slow turn around. Yeah, I try. Its why I keep the run times short -- There's already been mistakes on this, and I've misentered tracking info like five times and had to correct it -- five times in one case (that's right! No it's wrong. Wait I was right. Can't be -- this is that person's number. Dang it I was right the first time so whose number is *this* ?)
Five more out today, and I think I've gotten all the non-spacer orders en route except for one of the UK buyers. Turns out I'll need double what it would take for anywhere else. Hopefully he'll get back to me soon.
Got my R1 order and spacers today. Thanks, man! These look great. Now I just need to dig out my ErgoDox kit. Haha
Cool! Man that's a load off my shoulders. Been waiting to send those since round one but didn't have the spacers (that you drew up!!) then we had to wait, and ...
First round of spacers had some duds that would have required real tweaking. But with the R2 spacers, there was all those missing, plus some tweaked so I took those back, with the donut hole in my previous post. I think this is coming together nicely.
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Wow. Nice job dude. You are a machine.
This is by far the fastest turn around on a GB I think I have ever been involved in.
If that wasn't enough, you helped get the GH60 GB on track at the same time.
AKmalamute for president. :)
Well, on the GH60 I think all I did was say something about stab-wires and how I'd handle it if it were my order ... mostly trying to lower emotion because people were upset maybe a little out of proportion to the problems.
Like a slow turn around. Yeah, I try. Its why I keep the run times short -- There's already been mistakes on this, and I've misentered tracking info like five times and had to correct it -- five times in one case (that's right! No it's wrong. Wait I was right. Can't be -- this is that person's number. Dang it I was right the first time so whose number is *this* ?)
Didn't you get all the plates cut??? That was the latest major hold up from what I can tell.
I hear you on the shipping. I do the shipping for kiteaid and it takes so much time.
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My body is ready...also my Ergodox is as assembled as it can be without a case/plate :)
Thanks AKmalamute!
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Today OP was a cool guy
have my babies
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waiting for the plates to finish my blue alps ergodox.
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Didn't you get all the plates cut??? That was the latest major hold up from what I can tell.
That was ApocalypseMaow. :D
But AKmalamute has done a great job with these ErgoDox plates!
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waiting for the plates to finish my blue alps ergodox.
Those don't look like blue Alps to me, for some reason...
And you know that the holes for MX switches that these plates have won't work with Alps switches, right? They both have different dimensions, and are in slightly the wrong location with regard to the pin holes on the PCB.
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waiting for the plates to finish my blue alps ergodox.
Those don't look like blue Alps to me, for some reason...
And you know that the holes for MX switches that these plates have won't work with Alps switches, right? They both have different dimensions, and are in slightly the wrong location with regard to the pin holes on the PCB.
it's orange alps and cherry mx blues hahahah.
i know the mounting plate wont work with alps, that's why i soldered everything on the pcb board before anything arrives.
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waiting for the plates to finish my blue alps ergodox.
Those don't look like blue Alps to me, for some reason...
And you know that the holes for MX switches that these plates have won't work with Alps switches, right? They both have different dimensions, and are in slightly the wrong location with regard to the pin holes on the PCB.
it's orange alps and cherry mx blues hahahah.
i know the mounting plate wont work with alps, that's why i soldered everything on the pcb board before anything arrives.
Ah, I see. That should be an interesting project, then. :)
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Hey look what I got yesterday...
(http://i.imgur.com/CbBo5mO.jpg)
huge pile of metal sheets :eek:
(http://i.imgur.com/du9SByR.jpg)
No more of this ugliness.
(http://i.imgur.com/XgcW7vm.jpg)
It's happening!
(http://i.imgur.com/36uoYEp.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/WTSW8cP.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/2GvggPI.jpg)
:cool:
(http://i.imgur.com/IueqWMe.jpg)
Thanks AKMalamute!
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Looks really good, yuiop!
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There are 8 cases left to send -- and six names, I think. Hopefully somebody's getting doubles or I've screwed up O.o
Also, There's another name in the UK I desperately need to get ahold of because I only charged CONUS rates way back when ... and this is stainless, so it's going to be $62 at the cheapest -- not $14. :eek:
Last I spoke to the shop, they said Friday -- or maybe Monday, the could re-cut the stuff they missed. Then I can get everybody else's out, and hopefully be done with this. Unless the poor mis-sent package doesn't get returned by whomever I mailed it to. Note to self: always read all your notes when shipping things.
And yes, YUIOP, some nice looking metal there; thanks for sharing!
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Any word from the shop about re-cutting the missing plates?
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my metal has turned up :) thanks AK. just need to get on to building that second dox now :)
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My plates came in today as well. Now to remember where the link to the fastener and spacers to make minimal kit work. I'm wishing I'd bookmarked the links back when I first saw them lol.
At any rate the heavy metal goodness is below. :thumb: Thanks AK!
(http://i.imgur.com/wo9A5hD.jpg)
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Any word from the shop about re-cutting the missing plates?
No.
Well, that's not entirely true. I went in to the shop on Monday, and they said it wasn't done but they took down my office's address and said he'd just run them over today.
Now, I'm on vacation today but I got ahold of my supervisor and warned him to watch for a box to me, and it's a small enough place this wouldn't have been overlooked by him ... his desk is right next to mine and anyway the secretary would get ahold of him first if I wasn't around.
So ... I'll go out there on lunchbreak tomorrow and bug them. But really, it should be soon. Like, I really think I'll be able to get stuff out this weekend, kind of soon.
ALSO: Steam_bread ... please log in so you can respond to my PM / email ... shipping was misbilled and this is kind of a big deal, since stainless, and all.
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got mine in yesterday. much thanks good sir!
assembly and pics will have to wait a little bit. too busy at work :)
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It turns out, with a file and enough time it is possible to make mounting plates compatible with alps switches.
(http://i.imgur.com/azMvSD9.jpg)
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Got mine today. They look great. I will take pictures when I have a chance...
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It turns out, with a file and enough time it is possible to make mounting plates compatible with alps switches.
Show Image
(http://i.imgur.com/azMvSD9.jpg)
well you just probably earned the achievement of the first metal plate mounted alps ergodox on the planet. probably even the first plate mounted alps ergodox ever as well.
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congrats AKmalamute for your round 2
welcome everyone to the full metal ergodox club :D
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Received my plates last week and added them today! Love the added weight, that was one thing that initially bugged me about the Ergodox when first trying it out. Unfortunately I don't yet have the tools or ability to de-solder the switches from the original casing so I was only able to add the top and bottom plates to the Dox. Still the difference is quite noticeable and the top plate is heavier than the aluminum one ordered off Massdrop.
Overall am quite pleased, thanks for the quick turnaround!
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All done.
I dont recommend anyone to do it though. Tons of work to get everything fit.
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I dont recommend anyone to do it though. Tons of work to get everything fit.
Aluminum is much easier to grind new dimensions in; you'd still be at it if you tried that with stainless steel.
So, all you had to do was widen the holes? No changing of height? I assume you kept bringing the switch back to compare, to make sure the end result would let the pins reach their holes in the PCB...
And to everyone still waiting: I spoke to the shop manager today. Seems someone drove a forklift into the laser bed while carrying a max-capacity sheet of 3/4" steel. Broke several sensors, which had to be overnighted from out of the country.
He also said he'd write me an email before he went home listing where I was in the queue, and that hasn't happened either. But I'll keep bugging him, and we'll get this finished.
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is this like the least organized business ever? lol
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I dont recommend anyone to do it though. Tons of work to get everything fit.
Aluminum is much easier to grind new dimensions in; you'd still be at it if you tried that with stainless steel.
So, all you had to do was widen the holes? No changing of height? I assume you kept bringing the switch back to compare, to make sure the end result would let the pins reach their holes in the PCB...
And to everyone still waiting: I spoke to the shop manager today. Seems someone drove a forklift into the laser bed while carrying a max-capacity sheet of 3/4" steel. Broke several sensors, which had to be overnighted from out of the country.
He also said he'd write me an email before he went home listing where I was in the queue, and that hasn't happened either. But I'll keep bugging him, and we'll get this finished.
basically widen holes.
center of a alps switch is different from cherry mx.
so at the end of the day some switches can't fit all the way in, in my case all the cherry switches are tweaked and trimmed.
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Well, I was away on various errands all day, so was not able to show up and bug anybody. They weren't delivered either, so earliest now, is Monday ... I'll go out there then and see what's to be learned.
So, while hope springs eternal, shipping will not commence this weekend after all.
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Well, I was away on various errands all day, so was not able to show up and bug anybody. They weren't delivered either, so earliest now, is Monday ... I'll go out there then and see what's to be learned.
So, while hope springs eternal, shipping will not commence this weekend after all.
Damnation! Well thx for the update anyway :thumb:
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does it look stainless? does it look like steel?
[attachimg=1]
thanks for pulling through akm!
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My Ergodox kit just came in. Hope the plates ship soon, I wanna do some soldering!
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there's quite a lot of soldering you can do before getting to the plate, so you can get a nice head start with diodes & resistors & connectors & chips :)
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there's quite a lot of soldering you can do before getting to the plate, so you can get a nice head start with diodes & resistors & connectors & chips :)
Oh damn I forgot about that. (Still a novice)
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I just got a call from the shop; parts are finished.
So, I'm not sure I can say I'll be shipping today, but it'll be this week. Thanks, everybody, for your patience!
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The end is in sight, folks. I have what I believe are the last four orders ... plus Steam_bread's ... collated and on my table. Mailing addresses are on my screen, and boxes at my feet.
I'll edit this after lunch some time Friday (~18hrs hence) -- after PP has shipping info. If I edit to say it's all shipped and you haven't received tracking info by then, PM me because something went wrong.
So, Geniekid, Eppykay, Lolligagger, & Yunchew : thank you for your patience. Steam_bread please come back so I know how you want to proceed ... there's actually a couple of options from this point.
It also seems I ordered more than I needed. While I excelled at math theory in school, the computations always did trip me up. Not sure yet what I have left over so nothing being said about that it might not be more than a few loose mismatched layers. More, when I have it.
EDIT: They're out.
Two left, and I can't get a response yet to Steam_Bread, while the other is being worked on by the shop. Actually there's a tiny chance it'll go out tomorrow.
tiny chance.
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Nice. Now I just need to get around to buying switches and a teensy for my second ergodox.
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Thanks AK :thumb:
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If someone could post what the full hand Ergodox looks like with these plates that would be awesome, specifically those who bought all the plates (a.k.a not the minimalist)
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If someone could post what the full hand Ergodox looks like with these plates that would be awesome, specifically those who bought all the plates (a.k.a not the minimalist)
I should have some pics up of my full hand case when I get it in.
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If someone could post what the full hand Ergodox looks like with these plates that would be awesome, specifically those who bought all the plates (a.k.a not the minimalist)
i have full hand...sorta.
i haven't swapped out my acrylic plate yet, so it's half full hand and half classic. lol
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If someone could post what the full hand Ergodox looks like with these plates that would be awesome, specifically those who bought all the plates (a.k.a not the minimalist)
i have full hand...sorta.
i haven't swapped out my acrylic plate yet, so it's half full hand and half classic. lol
lol same...
(http://i.imgur.com/14Hki8o.jpg)
I'm looking to add the rest later, but am curious to know what it will be like, because I like this version enough as it is.
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Received the case last night. Typing on this right now :) Thanks again AKmalamute!
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
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Received the case last night. Typing on this right now :) Thanks again AKmalamute!
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
You put the acrylic switch plate (layer 3) between the PCB and bottom metal plate?
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Received the case last night. Typing on this right now :) Thanks again AKmalamute!
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
You put the acrylic switch plate (layer 3) between the PCB and bottom metal plate?
That is correct (good eyes JD :eek:). This is the only configuration I found where I could layer the steel and acrylic without using multiple steel layers together. Even then I had to cut and sand a little bit of acrylic to make space for the mini-USB on the right hand.
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Sanity check: Am I reading this correctly? One of the layers is essentially a switch plate, so it would be best to use plate-mounted (as opposed to PCB) MX switches for an Ergodox built with this case?
Edit: Nevermind, I re-read the whole thing from page 1 and got my answer. It's yes.
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^
doesn't matter in the slightest as far as i know.
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Sanity check: Am I reading this correctly? One of the layers is essentially a switch plate, so it would be best to use plate-mounted (as opposed to PCB) MX switches for an Ergodox built with this case?
Edit: Nevermind, I re-read the whole thing from page 1 and got my answer. It's yes.
The advantage of using PCB-mount switches with the switchplate provided by this GB, is that you don't need to clip the legs because the PCB accepts PCB mount switches. The advantage of using this switchplate is that you can *also* use plate-mount switches. In fact, on mine I'm using both because I can choose by the location, which kind of switch I want and not think about PCB-mount or plate-mount.
The advantage of doing thinks Geniekid's way is ... it takes less work, I think? Also you're re-using all your old materials in case you liked the clear acrylic. I guess. The keyboard as a whole would be stiffer, so it's still an improvement, but I feel it falls short of being fully metal.
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Sanity check: Am I reading this correctly? One of the layers is essentially a switch plate, so it would be best to use plate-mounted (as opposed to PCB) MX switches for an Ergodox built with this case?
Edit: Nevermind, I re-read the whole thing from page 1 and got my answer. It's yes.
The advantage of using PCB-mount switches with the switchplate provided by this GB, is that you don't need to clip the legs because the PCB accepts PCB mount switches. The advantage of using this switchplate is that you can *also* use plate-mount switches. In fact, on mine I'm using both because I can choose by the location, which kind of switch I want and not think about PCB-mount or plate-mount.
The advantage of doing thinks Geniekid's way is ... it takes less work, I think? Also you're re-using all your old materials in case you liked the clear acrylic. I guess. The keyboard as a whole would be stiffer, so it's still an improvement, but I feel it falls short of being fully metal.
My motivation for alternating between steel and acrylic is purely aesthetic preference - I like the look of metal *skeleton* cases but I don't actually want that much exposure to the internals. It actually takes a little more work to do what I did since you need to modify one of the existing acrylic layers.
Indeed there is no practical advantage for my case over a fully metal one.
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Sanity check: Am I reading this correctly? One of the layers is essentially a switch plate, so it would be best to use plate-mounted (as opposed to PCB) MX switches for an Ergodox built with this case?
Edit: Nevermind, I re-read the whole thing from page 1 and got my answer. It's yes.
The advantage of using PCB-mount switches with the switchplate provided by this GB, is that you don't need to clip the legs because the PCB accepts PCB mount switches. The advantage of using this switchplate is that you can *also* use plate-mount switches. In fact, on mine I'm using both because I can choose by the location, which kind of switch I want and not think about PCB-mount or plate-mount.
The advantage of doing thinks Geniekid's way is ... it takes less work, I think? Also you're re-using all your old materials in case you liked the clear acrylic. I guess. The keyboard as a whole would be stiffer, so it's still an improvement, but I feel it falls short of being fully metal.
So basically the answer is: it doesn't matter. :cool:
Are there any glamor shots of a completed case with JD's spacers?
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Are there any glamor shots of a completed case with JD's spacers?
I've posted a few, I think
http://i.imgur.com/PaSQJFs.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/ypuhG4h.jpg
Those are two of the better ones, I think. I tried to make an album of build pictures but the camera is falling apart and the lighting was poor so I didn't get much. The rest are in here
http://imgur.com/a/0v4U3
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OK, yeah.
(http://i.imgur.com/UjDpnhN.jpg)
They look much better with a proper screw squeezing them together. :D
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OK, yeah.
Show Image
(http://i.imgur.com/UjDpnhN.jpg)
They look much better with a proper screw squeezing them together. :D
Would look even better cut from 3/16" sheet metal, whether stainless or aluminum. :)
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OK, yeah.
Show Image
(http://i.imgur.com/UjDpnhN.jpg)
They look much better with a proper screw squeezing them together. :D
Would look even better cut from 3/16" sheet metal, whether stainless or aluminum. :)
I'm guessing the 16 gauge is slightly too thin in some spots?
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I'm guessing the 16 gauge is slightly too thin in some spots?
I don't have any troubles -- in fact I'm only using 4 pairs, but my 'TRRS connector' is an off-board phone jack.
I think it just minimizes the number of edges you have to polish into a seemingly solid surface. Would also leave more space open to dust, since the spacer layer doesn't go all the way around, like the original lower / upper spacers do.
Technically you could build just about all of it out of 1/8th inch except for a few pieces -- the piece just above the switchplate needs to be thicker to make room for electronics, and the switchplate itself needs to be 1.5mm to 'grab' the switches.
But all that add complication to the kit -- thus, expense. Cutting everything out of one sheet is the least expensive way that yields great results. But mixing thicknesses, yes would look more "solid" and possibly be easier to construct too. Not sure it would make so much difference for those folks reconstructing their MD keyboards.
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I'm guessing the 16 gauge is slightly too thin in some spots?
I don't have any troubles -- in fact I'm only using 4 pairs, but my 'TRRS connector' is an off-board phone jack.
I think it just minimizes the number of edges you have to polish into a seemingly solid surface. Would also leave more space open to dust, since the spacer layer doesn't go all the way around, like the original lower / upper spacers do.
Technically you could build just about all of it out of 1/8th inch except for a few pieces -- the piece just above the switchplate needs to be thicker to make room for electronics, and the switchplate itself needs to be 1.5mm to 'grab' the switches.
But all that add complication to the kit -- thus, expense. Cutting everything out of one sheet is the least expensive way that yields great results. But mixing thicknesses, yes would look more "solid" and possibly be easier to construct too. Not sure it would make so much difference for those folks reconstructing their MD keyboards.
So from a design/layout perspective, if you could change or fix anything for a hypothetical Round 3... would you?
This setup seemed like a pretty good compromise between cost, complexity, fit and aesthetics.
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I'm guessing the 16 gauge is slightly too thin in some spots?
I don't have any troubles -- in fact I'm only using 4 pairs, but my 'TRRS connector' is an off-board phone jack.
I think it just minimizes the number of edges you have to polish into a seemingly solid surface. Would also leave more space open to dust, since the spacer layer doesn't go all the way around, like the original lower / upper spacers do.
Technically you could build just about all of it out of 1/8th inch except for a few pieces -- the piece just above the switchplate needs to be thicker to make room for electronics, and the switchplate itself needs to be 1.5mm to 'grab' the switches.
But all that add complication to the kit -- thus, expense. Cutting everything out of one sheet is the least expensive way that yields great results. But mixing thicknesses, yes would look more "solid" and possibly be easier to construct too. Not sure it would make so much difference for those folks reconstructing their MD keyboards.
Yea the only thing I'm wondering is whether or not my TRRS cable will fit without any acrylic plates. I get the impression there might not be enough clearance for the end of the cable.
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Yea the only thing I'm wondering is whether or not my TRRS cable will fit without any acrylic plates. I get the impression there might not be enough clearance for the end of the cable.
One would think that replacing the cable with a lower profile one would be the solution
these (http://www.ebay.com/itm/221402888980) two (http://www.ebay.com/itm/151254503734) look lower-profile than the stock one.
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One would think that replacing the cable with a lower profile one would be the solution
these (http://www.ebay.com/itm/221402888980) two (http://www.ebay.com/itm/151254503734) look lower-profile than the stock one.
It's an option, however I'd much rather use this:
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5576/14681497872_0dd97e8f60_b.jpg)
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Got my plates in yesterday, thanks AKmalamute.
[attach=1][attach=2]
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Hey guys , i just got my plate as well and i was wondering which screws and spacers did all of you use. I know i read them somewhere but i cant find the post and link to purchase the screws :( can abybody help me out ?
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Is it worth getting my hopes up for a potential round 3? ;)
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So it's to late to get in on this ah... :))
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Is it worth getting my hopes up for a potential round 3? ;)
So it's to late to get in on this ah... :))
You two should check the interest-check subforum. ;)
It's looking like it'll happen; probably soon, too.
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Is it worth getting my hopes up for a potential round 3? ;)
So it's to late to get in on this ah... :))
You two should check the interest-check subforum. ;)
It's looking like it'll happen; probably soon, too.
Thanks AK! I'm all over it! :thumb:
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You two should check the interest-check subforum. ;)
It's looking like it'll happen; probably soon, too.
Awesome, cheers! ;)
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In light of the R3 of the metal ergodox case buy commencing, I was wondering if anybody has experience combining this plate, and Czarek's case.
I already have bought Czarek's PVC case w/ aluminum plate, but I want a more sturdy plate vs the flimy aluminum currently used in his designs.
I'd like to buy the kit, and utilize the SS plate in Czarek's case. Which option should I buy? Classic, Minimalist, or Extended minimalist?
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All 3 configurations include a plate, so you would probably want to buy the cheapest (minimalist) if that's the only piece you're using.
I have no idea if the plate will work with czarek's case.
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(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/15/e7b746c8a45d394232eea72e48044418.jpg)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/15/a8a17da031b2ee4a4dc129eeccc290d2.jpg)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/16/db0fdfebbee65fe4323348a6c25ac29c.jpg)
I would like to share pics of this wonderful case :)
I have not completed it yet but I'm almost there on my right side
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These cases are amazing. I currently have an acrylic plate/Massdrop ergoDox and was wondering if these would work with that and if there were any still sitting around from the Group Buy/someone bought an extra that they are looking to offload?
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Show Image
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/15/e7b746c8a45d394232eea72e48044418.jpg)
Show Image
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/15/a8a17da031b2ee4a4dc129eeccc290d2.jpg)
Show Image
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/16/db0fdfebbee65fe4323348a6c25ac29c.jpg)
I would like to share pics of this wonderful case :)
I have not completed it yet but I'm almost there on my right side
Very nice. Can you tell us a little bit about what you've done there? Is that a powder coat or some kind of anodizing? It almost looks "stonewashed" in your photos.
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Hey guys,
those that have bought the case does it scratch easily? I am really looking forward in buying it.
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Hey guys,
those that have bought the case does it scratch easily? I am really looking forward in buying it.
I have the stainless. It doesn't scratch that easily, but I also don't move my keyboard like, at all. Depends on how you use it too. If you just assemble the case as it came from the laser cutter then you're probably not going to notice a scratch. If you polish it a little like I did it might show scratches more.
Also, this GB has been over and done for many months. Orders are not open and I haven't seen much of AK lately. Classifieds are probably your only chance to get one of these cases.
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Show Image
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/15/e7b746c8a45d394232eea72e48044418.jpg)
Show Image
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/15/a8a17da031b2ee4a4dc129eeccc290d2.jpg)
Show Image
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/16/db0fdfebbee65fe4323348a6c25ac29c.jpg)
I would like to share pics of this wonderful case :)
I have not completed it yet but I'm almost there on my right side
Very nice. Can you tell us a little bit about what you've done there? Is that a powder coat or some kind of anodizing? It almost looks "stonewashed" in your photos.
Yup its powder coated :) and I've just finishing soldering it and here is the pic with granite keycaps
I can't get it working tho :( must be something I did wrong on the software.
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/31/276884b1710b96dcd36ff0c2f2087a87.jpg)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/31/26127f5c155c775b7cee4ab930acc89c.jpg)