geekhack
geekhack Projects => Making Stuff Together! => Topic started by: colin.a.beatty on Thu, 05 November 2020, 12:55:15
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Howdy everybody,
Apologies if this post is incorrect in some way, as I am new here. I am having issues with a recent build using a DZ60 that all of the sudden just stopped working.
I recently assembled the build using a DZ60RBG-V2 ANSI PCB with Kailh Hotswap Sockets with Zealios tactile switches. Not sure if its important but the board was bought from MassDrop: https://drop.com/buy/dz60-dz60rgb-type-c-60-pcb (https://drop.com/buy/dz60-dz60rgb-type-c-60-pcb), and I dropped the board in the leftover case from an old Vortex Pok3r.
Once it was fully assembled, it was working perfectly fine. I had some initial issues where one of the metal standoff pegs in my case was shorting with the leads on the side of one of the hot swap sockets (h key), and was causing some keys not to register. I was able to fix this by wrapping the standoff in my case with electrical tape and all was good from then on.
After a month or two of use as my daily driver work keyboard, I came back to work on a Monday morning and it was simply no longer working. None of keypresses are being registered, none of the LED's are turning on, and the device no longer shows up in QMK Toolbox when plugged in. For all intents and purposes, it seems like the board simply isnt plugged in when it actually is.
I am a bit of a newb when it comes to keyboard DIY, hence the Hotswap sockets (I suck at soldering). Any advice or suggestions I could get on where to go from here to debug and hopefully fix the board would be greatly appreciated.
I have uploaded pictures of the back of the PCB here https://imgur.com/a/jOZgbsW (https://imgur.com/a/jOZgbsW)
Thanks!
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- unless you lock your office, don't leave it at work.
- start simple..... try a different usb cable.... different usb port on the computer
- if it still doesn't work use a multimeter in continuity mode and look for the break in connection/trace, start around the usb port on the pcb, then around the controller, then the rest of the board
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- unless you lock your office, don't leave it at work.
This is good advice, but I work from home and the keyboard is just sitting in another room :D
- start simple..... try a different usb cable.... different usb port on the computer
I have tried multiple computers, cables, usb ports, etc...
- if it still doesn't work use a multimeter in continuity mode and look for the break in connection/trace, start around the usb port on the pcb, then around the controller, then the rest of the board
I have a multimeter laying around somewhere, I can try this!
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you can also search the forum for others that have had problems. i know i've commented in a couple threads but if memory serves they were all soldered boards.
it would be one thing if it was acting up one way or another but to be dead altogether, sounds like it's not getting power or something. my bet is there's a break on/around the usb port on the pcb. unless you have a metal post that shorted something else more important than a switch?
worst case, you can replace the pcb....
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Is anyone able to take a look at the PCB? I am currently going around the board with a multimeter, but I would like a second set eyes if someone is able to take a look.
You can find the pics here:
https://imgur.com/a/jOZgbsW (https://imgur.com/a/jOZgbsW)
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it's hotswap, so pull the switches & check the other side as well
do you use the onboard usb, or a daughterboard?
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Holy crap, I found the problem. I feel dumb.
Somehow something shorted the board and blew up the memory (or something like that). All I needed to do was manually bring it into DFU mode and reflash it.
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yay. glad you got it fixed