Author Topic: desoldering  (Read 3768 times)

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Offline gianni

  • Thread Starter
  • Posts: 7
desoldering
« on: Mon, 22 October 2018, 10:11:09 »
Hello, I'm looking for a cheap solution to desolder a keyboard (by the way this could cost me than buying the switches)...

There are some new tools everyday, so I'm asking you what are you using, and if you can explain how to do the desoldering :-( I've found this link that is quite clear, probably there's enough knowledge
https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/65pqvw/how_to_desolder_super_easily_with_an_amazon_tool/

These are a couple of recommended tools

this Tenma 21-8240 is probably the best, since it doesn't require an iron, it just heat and sucks:
http://www.mpja.com/40-Watt-Desoldering-Iron/productinfo/16922+TL/
https://www.amazon.de/Lamex-ZD211-Entl%C3%B6tsauger-L%C3%B6tsauger-Entl%C3%B6tpumpe/dp/B00DW7B96W
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008DJRYIG

and another one, different:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00068IJSG/

and another one
https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-SS-02-Solder-Sucker/dp/B002MJMXD4/

Offline HouseofSuffering

  • Posts: 199
  • Location: California
Re: desoldering
« Reply #1 on: Mon, 22 October 2018, 11:02:22 »
I bought the Tenma 21-8240 and the mechanism that locks the plunger down broke immediately......like literally within 2 cycles.

The Plunger still caused suction, it just no longer locked in the down position so I could casually press the release button when I was ready.

I did not return it, for two reasons.

1. I was ready to desolder at that moment and it still technically worked if I held the plunger down and released it with my thumb manually. (I do not recommend this. It hurt like hell after about 20 switches and I thought I was going to end up with a blister on my thumb from the friction.

2. The build quality on the Tenma 21-8240 is pretty crappy. The plastic is sharp on the edges and till has flash in some places. I did not have high hopes for a second one being much better.... It is $17 after all.

it still works for stuff here and there. But I will not use it on a full board again.

I really want one of those fancy gun ones that vacuum the solder up.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073TRPBHM/ref=sspa_dk_detail_5?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B073TRPBHM&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=f52e26da-1287-4616-824b-efc564ff75a4&pf_rd_r=93XEKB5HPDB2TKMMT6ZY&pd_rd_wg=ubGzS&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&pd_rd_w=itt0P&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pd_rd_r=b79c1e4f-d611-11e8-bab7-ab1331cf4c6b
« Last Edit: Mon, 22 October 2018, 11:07:12 by HouseofSuffering »

Offline Leslieann

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Re: desoldering
« Reply #2 on: Tue, 23 October 2018, 03:32:11 »
The button ones are meh... if it's built into the iron, maybe, but they tend to be problematic.
The bulb ones are probably the best low buck option, however, expect to destroy a tip for every board or two at about $5 each.

The vacuum systems seem nice, haven't had a chance to use one yet, but pricey for what they really are. Thought about adapting a pump and air tank to my bulb iron and accomplish close to the same thing.
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Offline gianni

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  • Posts: 7
Re: desoldering
« Reply #3 on: Tue, 23 October 2018, 04:48:15 »
Buying the right desoldering tool is such a difficult task  :-\

There's no affordable solution that is remotely reliable.

Offline fer.real

  • Posts: 124
Re: desoldering
« Reply #4 on: Tue, 23 October 2018, 06:11:21 »
I just got this, an Engineer SS-02 solder sucker off of Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002MJMXD4.  It has a spring-loaded button mechanism for creating suction, but the tip is silicone instead of plastic.  It's flexible and easy to unclog.  It also comes with an extra length of silicone tubing, so you get a couple of extra tips.

Offline Kavik

  • Posts: 819
Re: desoldering
« Reply #5 on: Tue, 23 October 2018, 10:20:40 »
I just use a regular soldering iron with a plunger. It takes a bit of practice to do it right. Just make sure you don't linger too long on the pads or you'll lift them and ruin that part of the PCB. Also make sure your soldering iron is hot enough. I had a lot of trouble the first few times I tried it because my soldering iron was only 25 watts or something (or maybe the tip I was using was too broad).

It's pretty time consuming to desolder a board this way.
Maybe they're waiting for gasmasks and latex to get sexy again.

The world has become a weird place.

Offline Zuology

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Re: desoldering
« Reply #6 on: Tue, 23 October 2018, 10:52:08 »
I think learning to desolder with pump and/or braid/wick is a good skillset to build for general use, but if you relative ease and don't mind a potentially disposable solution (cheap parts/construction may or may not last more than 1-2 builds), check this out: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B88FRME/ if available in your area. Same price or less than the Engineer pump, and is an AIO solution.
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Offline gianni

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  • Posts: 7
Re: desoldering
« Reply #7 on: Wed, 24 October 2018, 02:56:44 »
I think learning to desolder with pump and/or braid/wick is a good skillset to build for general use, but if you relative ease and don't mind a potentially disposable solution (cheap parts/construction may or may not last more than 1-2 builds), check this out: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B88FRME/ if available in your area. Same price or less than the Engineer pump, and is an AIO solution.

The 30 watt solution is probably not powerful enough. I think that I'll search for the 40 watt one, with amazon warranty possibly.

Offline Leslieann

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Re: desoldering
« Reply #8 on: Wed, 24 October 2018, 19:17:52 »
An actual 30 watt iron will handle desoldering a keyboard, IF it's an actual 30 watts and not a 20 marked as a 30.
Beware watt ratings, and brand loyalty.

Years ago, I had a 35 watt Weller pen, would get through 14ga wire without issue, and 12 with some effort. Bought several 30 watt irons and even a 70watt iron and yet none came close to that Weller. I've seen 90 watt irons that couldn't handle 14ga wires (wtf), and I've seen expensive irons with bad tips that couldn't handle 20ga wires. A few years back I decided to replace that Weller with a newer one as the tip was ground to almost nothing and I couldn't get it out to replace it, it is not as good as it used to be. Same Wattage, same model, but Weller was bought out and quality has gone downhill.

Basically, research (more than just Amazon because those are rigged to hell and back), because ratings are pretty useless really, especially since the Chinese have flooded the market with garbage. One popular Hakko knockoff now has something like 5 revisions and sells under 20 different names. Some electrical experts even deemed them flat out unsafe and likely to burn down your house, while others are halfway decent so you need to research before you buy cheap.

If you are starting, a cheap Weller pen works better than other junk in that price even if it's not as good as the older model. I still like the bulb suckers more than the button ones (which VARY a TON in quality and price), the bulbs are simply easier to use (you don't have to be fast at getting the sucker into place, it's already there). If you want a better iron, step up to the Hakko 888d. I'd avoid the Weller equivalent, we threw ours away after something failed and no amount of research could identify the issue for certain, it was either spend 50% on a gamble or spend 100% and get a better iron, we chose the latter. We eventually bought a second Hakko it was so good.


By the way, bigger tips are actually better, they maintain heat better and can transfer more into the joint quickly, so you actually want to use as large a tip as you can for the job. On an old keyboard where you are desoldering switches size isn't really a problem, it's when you start doing SMD that size becomes more of a problem.

Oh and braid is a pain in the neck, make sure it's pre-fluxxed or it will be a nightmare and thinner is better.
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Offline OldIsNew

  • Posts: 145
Re: desoldering
« Reply #9 on: Wed, 24 October 2018, 19:53:28 »
Oh and braid is a pain in the neck, make sure it's pre-fluxxed or it will be a nightmare and thinner is better.

Au contraire!

Well ... not really. Braid is a helpful tool, but for sure agree should be pre-fluxed,  and I still add flux to the component to be desoldered and dip the braid in more flux before using it. I mainly use it to clean up when my Radio Shack (a moment of silence please) solder sucker doesn't quite do the job.


Offline Leslieann

  • * Elevated Elder
  • Posts: 4513
Re: desoldering
« Reply #10 on: Thu, 25 October 2018, 04:33:51 »
Radio Shack (a moment of silence please)
Radio Shack's not dead, yet.

« Last Edit: Thu, 25 October 2018, 04:37:09 by Leslieann »
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Offline OldIsNew

  • Posts: 145
Re: desoldering
« Reply #11 on: Thu, 25 October 2018, 17:54:49 »
Radio Shack (a moment of silence please)
Radio Shack's not dead, yet.



That's awesome! You're correct. Spot on!


Offline [null]

  • Posts: 20
  • Location: Wausau, WI.
    • [null]
Re: desoldering
« Reply #12 on: Thu, 25 October 2018, 23:43:21 »
If you want to spend next to nothing and already have a decent soldering iron, using an IC remover to pinch both clips on plate mounted Cherry MX switches while heating the legs with a soldering iron is a very cheap and easy way to strip keyboards of their switches. You may have to bend the ends of the IC remover tool slightly to reach around the Cherry MX housing. If you would like to clean up the PCB afterwards you can use solder wick. In a pinch, a bent pair of tweezers also does the job nicely, but is less ergonomic.

If you are de-soldering thousands of switches on a regular basis, then yes I would absolutely recommend a de-soldering gun. For small jobs here and there, heating up the leads and pulling the switch out with the IC remover at the same time has worked very well for me.
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