Author Topic: The Living Soldering Thread  (Read 1855021 times)

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Offline jdcarpe

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1500 on: Wed, 11 December 2013, 11:13:44 »
I'm in the UK and need recommendations on a soldering iron / soldering station plus anything I'd need for desoldering switches on a keyboard. The cheaper the better really since it's not going to be used like every day but don't want horrible tat at the same time. Got £35 Amazon.co.uk credit as well if anything on there is good.

This seems to have good reviews, and is probably very similar to the Yihua 936: 60W ESD PROTECTION LCD SOLDERING IRON STATION NEW

Then you just need a Soldapullt and some Kester 44 from mkawa. :thumb:
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Offline Mysteric

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1501 on: Wed, 11 December 2013, 11:25:56 »
I'm in the UK and need recommendations on a soldering iron / soldering station plus anything I'd need for desoldering switches on a keyboard. The cheaper the better really since it's not going to be used like every day but don't want horrible tat at the same time. Got £35 Amazon.co.uk credit as well if anything on there is good.

This seems to have good reviews, and is probably very similar to the Yihua 936: 60W ESD PROTECTION LCD SOLDERING IRON STATION NEW

Then you just need a Soldapullt and some Kester 44 from mkawa. :thumb:


To be honest for the time being all it's going to be used for is to desolder one faulty Cherry MX switch and replace it with another.

Offline swill

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1502 on: Wed, 11 December 2013, 11:32:51 »
I'm in the UK and need recommendations on a soldering iron / soldering station plus anything I'd need for desoldering switches on a keyboard. The cheaper the better really since it's not going to be used like every day but don't want horrible tat at the same time. Got £35 Amazon.co.uk credit as well if anything on there is good.

This seems to have good reviews, and is probably very similar to the Yihua 936: 60W ESD PROTECTION LCD SOLDERING IRON STATION NEW

Then you just need a Soldapullt and some Kester 44 from mkawa. :thumb:


To be honest for the time being all it's going to be used for is to desolder one faulty Cherry MX switch and replace it with another.

buy better tools than you think you need.  it is worth the money to buy a better tool right away than to spend money on a tool and then have to replace it with a better one later.  this is a painful lesson to learn in practice...

what jd linked is probably fine for what you want. 

Offline Mysteric

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1503 on: Wed, 11 December 2013, 12:22:58 »
I'm trying to find an alternative to that Kester 44 solder wire since it has to be ordered from the US (Prefer something that can be bought in the UK for delivery purposes)

Offline swill

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1504 on: Wed, 11 December 2013, 12:44:22 »
I'm trying to find an alternative to that Kester 44 solder wire since it has to be ordered from the US (Prefer something that can be bought in the UK for delivery purposes)

Just go to amazon.co.uk and search for '63 37 solder'.  You are looking for 63/37 solder with rosin core that is .8mm or smaller.  I believe that will be equivalent to Kester 44.

Offline jdcarpe

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1505 on: Wed, 11 December 2013, 13:39:34 »
I'm trying to find an alternative to that Kester 44 solder wire since it has to be ordered from the US (Prefer something that can be bought in the UK for delivery purposes)

This should be fine.

This solder wick (braid) should work for desoldering tasks.


If you really only ever intend to use it to desolder/solder one faulty switch, you could probably get by just fine with this or even this soldering pencil.
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Offline BlueBär

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1506 on: Wed, 11 December 2013, 13:52:56 »
Ebay has some too and is usually quite cheap, but I don't know if it's any good.

Offline Mysteric

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1507 on: Wed, 11 December 2013, 14:05:46 »
Yeah I don't mind buying from eBay or Amazon really. Is it better to use the desoldering wick rather than the pump / sucker?

I'm trying to find an alternative to that Kester 44 solder wire since it has to be ordered from the US (Prefer something that can be bought in the UK for delivery purposes)

This should be fine.

This solder wick (braid) should work for desoldering tasks.


If you really only ever intend to use it to desolder/solder one faulty switch, you could probably get by just fine with this or even this soldering pencil.

I'm not too sure how often I'd use it really; depends on if any switches or anything broke. It'd be basically used to perhaps change the LEDs on my QFR and any broken switches / contact points.
« Last Edit: Wed, 11 December 2013, 14:07:19 by Mackem »

Offline swill

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1508 on: Wed, 11 December 2013, 15:25:54 »
Someone please correct me if I am wrong, but I believe that the main difference between Kester 44 (63/37) and other 63/37 solders is that Kester 44 has 3.3% flux and most of the other 63/37 solders have 2% flux. 

Offline Mysteric

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1509 on: Wed, 11 December 2013, 19:36:25 »
Would something like this be good for soldering switches and whatnot? If so, what size tip(s) should I get?
« Last Edit: Wed, 11 December 2013, 19:38:31 by Mackem »

Offline BlueBär

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1510 on: Wed, 11 December 2013, 19:45:05 »
Would something like this be good for soldering switches and whatnot? If so, what size tip(s) should I get?

The Yihua in the OP is on ebay for 5£ more: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Soldering-Station-Best-Quality-YAXUN-936B-whit-UK-3pin-Fused-Plug-/251303485987
JD is a fan of those I think. I don't know what the difference from the B+ to the normal version is though.
« Last Edit: Wed, 11 December 2013, 19:47:09 by BlueBär »

Offline Mysteric

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1511 on: Wed, 11 December 2013, 19:54:28 »
Was hoping it'd be on Amazon since I have like £35 credit to use on there.

Offline BlueBär

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1512 on: Wed, 11 December 2013, 20:00:28 »
Was hoping it'd be on Amazon since I have like £35 credit to use on there.

Maybe use it for solder, a tip cleaner, a sodapult, etc.? Just some general solder stuff.

Offline TheSoulhunter

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1513 on: Thu, 12 December 2013, 00:04:43 »
if you get an unclear desolder in any situation, the best trick is actually the least intuitive. ADD solder to the joint, a whole bunch, then melt and use your solder sucker tool again. do this enough times and you will get a really clean desolder for mechanical and metallurgic reasons i won't go into.

Sadly that's still not quite going to get all the solder out for complete through-hole copper inserts in double-sided PCBs like Filcos.  I did that initially with my first Filco PCB and spent forever adding solder, sucking it out, adding more, using a braid, etc.  Tiny filaments remained deep inside the holes, and Filco even advertises that their solder goes all the way to the other side of the PCB.  It might be easier to get it all out with better tools.  My TRiK PCB was VERY easy to desolder (switches and LEDs) compared to Filco.

Yeah, those Filco PCBs are a real pain to desolder. You're bound to lose a couple pads in the process.

Uggg...  I have a filco that I want to replace the plate on.  Not looking forward to this now...  :(  Any tips will be much appreciated. 

Get a Hakko 808, it works well for inserts/VIAs!

Offline mkawa

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1514 on: Thu, 12 December 2013, 02:00:44 »
Someone please correct me if I am wrong, but I believe that the main difference between Kester 44 (63/37) and other 63/37 solders is that Kester 44 has 3.3% flux and most of the other 63/37 solders have 2% flux. 
the kester 44 datasheet explains it best: https://docs.google.com/viewer?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.kester.com%2Fdownload%2F44%2520Flux-Cored%2520Wire%2520Data%2520Sheet.pdf

basically, kester RA (activated rosin flux) is the ideal flux. it's just corrosive enough to wet joints but not corrosive enough to damage boards or components. it is also non-conductive in nearly all situations, so one can get away with treating it as a no-clean flux. most no-clean flux is absolutely worthless. the major problem with kester 44 is that it uses leaded alloys which are not allowed for use in imported electronics in the EU anymore. this has made it exceedingly difficult to find, simply because kester has a much smaller market it's selling 44 to. ironically, the major market for kester 44 is solder and rework devices meant for use in factories in Asia. these devices are then used to melt lead-free no-clean solder on devices meant for export from asia.

21st century economics.

anyway, the other problem with kester 44 is not it's not very stable compared to most fluxed solders. it has a shelf life of 2-3 years, and needs to be kept within safe humidity and temperature ranges that are smaller than lead free mildly fluxed solders. so, ironically, the only size of kester 44 that's still produced in quantity is 1lb spools, but there's no chance at all of a hobbyist using 16oz of solder before the spool expires. CONUNDRUM. i've spent some time and a whole bunch of money attacking this problem as geekhackers and i think you guys will be pleasantly surprised when the final product goes up on the permanent store. because of the above, it really is the best hobbyist solder, but it hasn't really been readily available for hobbyists since rohs went into effect.

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Offline jacobolus

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1515 on: Thu, 12 December 2013, 03:22:55 »
anyway, the other problem with kester 44 is not it's not very stable compared to most fluxed solders. it has a shelf life of 2-3 years, and needs to be kept within safe humidity and temperature ranges that are smaller than lead free mildly fluxed solders.
Hm. Can you elaborate about this point? I’ve read a bunch of random comments online from people saying they’ve used the same spool of Kester 44 for decades. What happens to expired flux/solder?

Offline dragonxx21

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1516 on: Thu, 12 December 2013, 16:38:53 »
When cleaning flux with kimwipes and isopropyl alcohol, what do you guys generally do? Do you scrub the pcb with brush + alcohol then put on the wipe to absorb the excess alcohol? For cleaning kester 951 flux (no clean flux) is it alright to simply go over the area with a bonpen filled with IPA and then apply the wipe afterwards?
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Offline hasu

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1517 on: Thu, 12 December 2013, 20:21:29 »
To clean I pour a quite bit of IPA into PCB then scrub down with small child tooth brush and wipe with kimwipe. I don't rub PCB with kimwipe just soak up excess. So I think kleenex also works you don't need kimwipe necessarily.

It seems sufficient amount of IPA and brush scrub are important. You will not able to give IPA enough with Bonpen, I used small bottle and pour. I use Bonpen to apply flux and like it.
« Last Edit: Thu, 12 December 2013, 20:25:31 by hasu »

Offline mkawa

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1518 on: Fri, 13 December 2013, 00:40:26 »
anyway, the other problem with kester 44 is not it's not very stable compared to most fluxed solders. it has a shelf life of 2-3 years, and needs to be kept within safe humidity and temperature ranges that are smaller than lead free mildly fluxed solders.
Hm. Can you elaborate about this point? I’ve read a bunch of random comments online from people saying they’ve used the same spool of Kester 44 for decades. What happens to expired flux/solder?
in the best case, the flux just becomes less active. the activators in it are usually either halides or fluorides. i can't remember exactly what Kester RA uses, but i don't believe it uses halides or if it does they neutralize on vaporization and aren't left in the residue.

you might recall that the physical interpretation of the word flux is not a name for a substance but a noun which refers to the flow of some other noun. in this case, solder flux facilitates the flow of molten solder over two metals that one wants to be electrically joined. in this case, the thing that prevents this from happening is generally the oxide layer that forms on metals when they are exposed to oxygen (almost all useful metals want dem oxygen electrons). hence, flux, the substance, is a corrosive compound which, when vaporized in contact with metal oxides, dissolves or otherwise makes them go away.

so, in the best case, your 10 year old spool of solder (i had one too!) is just a spool of metal alloy with a low melt temperature and a mostly inert substance running through the core of the drawn wire.

in the worst case, the flux eats through the solder alloy itself and affects the alloy composition and physical structure of the drawn solder wire. i've seen (and thrown away) rolls of solder that looked like they bled to death.

another issue is that of lead. lead really likes oxygen. especially in very thin solder wire, a large amount of lead is exposed to oxygen and can form a very very thick oxide layer. as above, the flux core is supposed to help deal with this, but over the last decade it became a gross inert bit of tree sap, so your solder is not quite the alloy you thought it was and does not have the same conductivity or flow properties it used to. that can be bad, particularly if you're new to soldering. i personally use a roll of kester 44 i got off ebay and expired about 2 years ago. i also keep a large fresh bottle of activated rosin flux around, and thoroughly clean my boards of flux residue.

in short, kester 44 RA 63/37 0.02 is pretty much the best hobbyist and leaded solder WHEN IT'S NOT EXPIRED. after it expires it usually stays workable, but you have to be a bit careful with it.

kimwipes are probably overkill on all but the most intricate of SMT designs. i have a flux remover spray full of pretty much every organic solvent you can think of that i use (i think it's an mg chem product, but it could also be chemtronics). i then scrub the crap out of it with a nylon brush. iso (anhydrous, not that rubbing alcohol crap) also works for most flux residues. then i just let it dry. keep in mind that organic solvents are volatile as crap and vaporize immediately and then smell like crap for hours. i do this in the bathtub and then i leave the bathroom and go work somewhere that doesn't smell like crap.




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Offline tgujay

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1519 on: Fri, 13 December 2013, 08:44:30 »
To clean I pour a quite bit of IPA into PCB then scrub down with small child tooth brush and wipe with kimwipe. I don't rub PCB with kimwipe just soak up excess. So I think kleenex also works you don't need kimwipe necessarily.

It seems sufficient amount of IPA and brush scrub are important. You will not able to give IPA enough with Bonpen, I used small bottle and pour. I use Bonpen to apply flux and like it.

You probably shouldn't clean your PCB's with beer.
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Offline Photoelectric

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1520 on: Fri, 13 December 2013, 10:41:51 »
To clean I pour a quite bit of IPA into PCB then scrub down with small child tooth brush and wipe with kimwipe. I don't rub PCB with kimwipe just soak up excess. So I think kleenex also works you don't need kimwipe necessarily.

It seems sufficient amount of IPA and brush scrub are important. You will not able to give IPA enough with Bonpen, I used small bottle and pour. I use Bonpen to apply flux and like it.

You probably shouldn't clean your PCB's with beer.
/s

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Offline riotonthebay

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1521 on: Sun, 15 December 2013, 09:58:48 »
I recently replaced the browns on my QFR with clears, and then a little bit later the clears with ergo-clears. This was my first reasonably large (de)soldering job. Everything went fine, and looking at other examples I think I did an okay job of it.

However, none of the 3 LEDs continue to work. Is there some particular magic to soldering in LEDs that's different than the switches? The joints for LEDs are definitely smaller; does this make it easier to mess up?

Offline BlueBär

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1522 on: Sun, 15 December 2013, 10:03:33 »
Is there some particular magic to soldering in LEDs that's different than the switches? The joints for LEDs are definitely smaller; does this make it easier to mess up?

Did you change their color? The provided voltage for them might be too high or to low. Also, did you maybe solder them in the wrong way around?

Offline riotonthebay

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1523 on: Sun, 15 December 2013, 10:20:51 »
Is there some particular magic to soldering in LEDs that's different than the switches? The joints for LEDs are definitely smaller; does this make it easier to mess up?

Did you change their color? The provided voltage for them might be too high or to low. Also, did you maybe solder them in the wrong way around?

I didn't change the color, but I'm willing to bet you've come across the problem ;). I didn't solder them in a particular way because I didn't see any markings on the LEDs themselves. How can I tell which way is the right way?

Offline swill

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1524 on: Sun, 15 December 2013, 10:50:30 »
Is there some particular magic to soldering in LEDs that's different than the switches? The joints for LEDs are definitely smaller; does this make it easier to mess up?

Did you change their color? The provided voltage for them might be too high or to low. Also, did you maybe solder them in the wrong way around?

I didn't change the color, but I'm willing to bet you've come across the problem ;). I didn't solder them in a particular way because I didn't see any markings on the LEDs themselves. How can I tell which way is the right way?

Learn about the polarity of LEDs here: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=40501.5450#post_BBB

Offline riotonthebay

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1525 on: Sun, 15 December 2013, 16:27:59 »
Is there some particular magic to soldering in LEDs that's different than the switches? The joints for LEDs are definitely smaller; does this make it easier to mess up?

Did you change their color? The provided voltage for them might be too high or to low. Also, did you maybe solder them in the wrong way around?

I didn't change the color, but I'm willing to bet you've come across the problem ;). I didn't solder them in a particular way because I didn't see any markings on the LEDs themselves. How can I tell which way is the right way?

Learn about the polarity of LEDs here: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=40501.5450#post_BBB

Great! Thanks for pointing this out – I should've known to look there first.

Offline mkawa

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1526 on: Sun, 15 December 2013, 20:44:34 »
just a quick teaser of the learn to solder kit's solder station that i've been designing:


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Offline dragonxx21

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1527 on: Sun, 15 December 2013, 23:12:29 »
just a quick teaser of the learn to solder kit's solder station that i've been designing:
Oh yeah, that things looks beautiful.

PS. Can you recommend a nice fine tip for the CL1481? The smaller default tip you included works great but I feel like I could use a smaller one to get into those hard to reach spots when doing smaller surface mount stuff.
« Last Edit: Sun, 15 December 2013, 23:14:20 by dragonxx21 »
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Offline mkawa

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1528 on: Mon, 16 December 2013, 01:16:20 »
yep! the tip you are looking for is the lt374^H^H^H^ LT444. shoot me a PM tonight or early-ish tomorrow and i can get it out the door by tuesday or wednesday at the latest. i have to run by edsyn either tomorrow or the day after for other reasons :)
« Last Edit: Mon, 16 December 2013, 01:26:33 by mkawa »

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Offline Mysteric

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1529 on: Mon, 16 December 2013, 16:07:44 »
What heat should I be using to desolder / resolder switches? I desoldered the switch earlier, does this look OK? The Backspace key just wasn't working at all.


Offline Photekq

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1530 on: Mon, 16 December 2013, 16:13:56 »
That looks fine. I use about 285-300 degC on my iron.
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Offline HPE1000

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1531 on: Mon, 16 December 2013, 16:17:01 »
On my yihua I usually use 300-350c when desoldering. 350c took probably 3 seconds to desolder the switches on a QFR if the tip was properly cleaned and tinned. But if I desoldered the kester solder it could be done at much lower temps a lot faster.

Offline Mysteric

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1532 on: Mon, 16 December 2013, 16:24:10 »
Ah no wonder mine took slightly longer, I was using 240. Oops! Photekq this is going to be a shot in the dark but you don't have any Costar stabilizer inserts do you? I'm trying to source some from within Europe as I'd like to try and get them ASAP.

This is the solder I am using
« Last Edit: Mon, 16 December 2013, 16:26:00 by Mackem »

Offline Photekq

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1533 on: Mon, 16 December 2013, 16:25:04 »
Ah no wonder mine took slightly longer, I was using 240. Oops! Photekq this is going to be a shot in the dark but you don't have any Costar stabilizer inserts do you? I'm trying to source some from within Europe as I'd like to try and get them ASAP.
http://www.keyboardco.com/product/4-filco-white-stabilizers.asp

 ;D

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Offline Mysteric

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1534 on: Mon, 16 December 2013, 16:26:15 »
They're OOS :(

Offline Photekq

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1535 on: Mon, 16 December 2013, 16:27:04 »
They're OOS :(
Ah, darn. Didn't realise that. Sorry I couldn't help you out :-[
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Offline Mysteric

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1536 on: Mon, 16 December 2013, 16:28:11 »
They're OOS :(
Ah, darn. Didn't realise that. Sorry I couldn't help you out :-[

Yeah. I'm gonna be able to fix the keyboard whenever I get a new red switch but I'm not gonna be able to put any keycaps on because I have one set of stabilizer inserts for 2 keyboards basically.


Offline Photekq

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1537 on: Mon, 16 December 2013, 16:30:29 »
If you need them urgently then it's worth taking a gamble on the MY ones that kint offered you on DT. Going by his description, I have run into them before, and they did look exactly like costar inserts, and I reckon they would work. Cannot say for sure though.
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Offline mkawa

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1538 on: Mon, 16 December 2013, 18:44:58 »
does wasd not ship internationally?

also, mackem, great desoldering job. if you want to take the rest of the solder on the pad off, you can either use braid or the clever way is to put MORE solder on, then soldapullt it all up.

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Offline Mysteric

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1539 on: Mon, 16 December 2013, 19:47:49 »
does wasd not ship internationally?

also, mackem, great desoldering job. if you want to take the rest of the solder on the pad off, you can either use braid or the clever way is to put MORE solder on, then soldapullt it all up.

Yeah WASD do ship internationally but it means I'd now probably have to wait until early January to get them. It's no big deal I suppose.

Thanks. First time I've touched a soldering iron since I was 12 (8 years ago, feels like yesterday). I tried using some of the desolder wick stuff but it didn't work for some reason. Perhaps I needed to turn the temperature up or I wasn't using it right.

Offline Mysteric

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1540 on: Sat, 21 December 2013, 17:46:57 »
I fixed the issue with the QFR; I scraped the trace to expose the copper and managed to solder to get it working. It looks abysmal but it works. Only issue now is that the top cover is warped so I need a new one!

Offline HPE1000

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1541 on: Sat, 21 December 2013, 17:49:15 »
I fixed the issue with the QFR; I scraped the trace to expose the copper and managed to solder to get it working. It looks abysmal but it works. Only issue now is that the top cover is warped so I need a new one!
You are going to have a hard time getting a top that isn't warped, it doesn't really matter once the top is actually on the keyboard though. (although this could just be that it was hot where I live every time I ordered one and the ups trucks might have warped them)

Offline Mysteric

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1542 on: Sat, 21 December 2013, 17:53:23 »
I fixed the issue with the QFR; I scraped the trace to expose the copper and managed to solder to get it working. It looks abysmal but it works. Only issue now is that the top cover is warped so I need a new one!
You are going to have a hard time getting a top that isn't warped, it doesn't really matter once the top is actually on the keyboard though. (although this could just be that it was hot where I live every time I ordered one and the ups trucks might have warped them)

One of the little tab things on the top side of the case won't clip into place properly so the top left part of the keyboard makes an awful creaking / clicking noise if I press any of the keys near there.

Offline MJ45

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1543 on: Sat, 21 December 2013, 18:44:23 »
I fixed the issue with the QFR; I scraped the trace to expose the copper and managed to solder to get it working. It looks abysmal but it works. Only issue now is that the top cover is warped so I need a new one!
You are going to have a hard time getting a top that isn't warped, it doesn't really matter once the top is actually on the keyboard though. (although this could just be that it was hot where I live every time I ordered one and the ups trucks might have warped them)

One of the little tab things on the top side of the case won't clip into place properly so the top left part of the keyboard makes an awful creaking / clicking noise if I press any of the keys near there.
From my experience with QFR's (4+) I have not seen a non-warped top. The new replacements included, it seems they intended them to be warped. The tabs will wear with removal and replacement cycles causing the creaking / clicking issues.

Offline Photoelectric

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1544 on: Sat, 21 December 2013, 19:42:34 »
They are all warped to different extent since they are so soft and flexible, and I've handled like 30 QFR tops o.o  Filco tops are made of thicker / harder plastic and even they are slightly warped.  When you put your top cover onto the base, make sure you're inserting it evenly from all directions and really squeeze the top and bottom until you hear the clicks/pops.  At worst, you can file off some of the tabs on the inside of the top cover, or just file off the sides of the tabs.
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Offline Neal

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1545 on: Tue, 24 December 2013, 16:24:28 »
Well... My dad just gave me a Weller WS81. I have a feeling this is huge overkill for my usage.
But its time for me how to properly solder, guess I'll be around this thread a lot. :o

Offline HoffmanMyster

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1546 on: Tue, 24 December 2013, 16:31:16 »
Well... My dad just gave me a Weller WS81. I have a feeling this is huge overkill for my usage.
But its time for me how to properly solder, guess I'll be around this thread a lot. :o

Nice, that's what I used in school for my first soldering project there and when I learned more proper soldering techniques.   :thumb:

Offline HPE1000

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1547 on: Wed, 25 December 2013, 10:55:50 »
I just desoldered the two leds on my filco... It took a good 30 mins to get them to come off, I realized I needed to prop the board up and just pull each side out while I heated the solder because there was no way all the solder was coming out.

Offline riotonthebay

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1548 on: Wed, 25 December 2013, 11:04:24 »
I just desoldered the two leds on my filco... It took a good 30 mins to get them to come off, I realized I needed to prop the board up and just pull each side out while I heated the solder because there was no way all the solder was coming out.

What are you using to desolder? I've had success with a cheapo desoldering pump like this:



The LEDs were definitely harder than the switches because the solder points are so small, but it usually didn't take more than 2 tries.

Offline HPE1000

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1549 on: Wed, 25 December 2013, 11:12:03 »
I am using that exact desolder pump, I always desolder switches first try, but those leds were crazy.