swapping Model M controllers

[reset]

I'm thinking of swapping out the controller on my terminal Model M with one from a regular Model M that has a broken case. (Yes, I thought about just swapping cases, but I like the keyfeel on the terminal M a little more; plus, the regular M has drainage channels and the terminal doesn't, so a little modification may be needed to make the internals fit.) Not sure that a controller swap will work, but I thought it worth a shot. Any tips on removing the ribbon cable? I'm a bit nervous that I may tear it in the process. Thanks!

[berserkfan]

I'm thinking of swapping out the controller on my terminal Model M with one from a regular Model M that has a broken case. (Yes, I thought about just swapping cases, but I like the keyfeel on the terminal M a little more; plus, the regular M has drainage channels and the terminal doesn't, so a little modification may be needed to make the internals fit.) Not sure that a controller swap will work, but I thought it worth a shot. Any tips on removing the ribbon cable? I'm a bit nervous that I may tear it in the process. Thanks!

You should be able to pull them all out. Don't yank to avoid damage to the membranes, which are kinda fragile considering how heavy the rest of the keyboard is.

I am assuming you don't have a 122 key terminal? If your terminal is the same size as the other model M, they should have the same number of leads and controller should be able to fit physically except you may need to pass the emerging signals through a soarer.

[dorkvader]

On the terminal M the controller is usually mounted differently (bolted to the plate instead of slotted into the case). Make sure you can install it properly.

I also don't think the "extra key" on the terminal is mapped to anything on the "normal" m.

Your "normal" M with drainage channels sounds like a blue label lexmark and the thinner plate might be the cause of the different keyfeel. It would depend on the age/type of your terminal M though.

As Berserkfan said, you can just pull it up. Try not to touch the contacts. They are covered in plastic on both sides all the way up until the very edge, so you have a good place to grip on. Just slowly and steadily pull it up.

Another thing to consider is IBM changed membranes at least once so there's a chance it might not work at all.

I would, of course, recommend making a soarer converter with a $5 arduino (pro micro) and some jumper wire. Cheap, easy, effective, reprogrammable, USB: it's all win.

[reset]

Thank you both for your input. I'll look into making a converter.